Reddit reviews Zoo Med 26061 Reptisun 10.0 T5-Ho Uvb 24W Fluorescent Lamp, 22"

I would ditch those pellets as substrate and get yourself some slate tile. You can find it at almost any hardware store. You may have to cut some pieces with a tile cutter or wet saw to get them to fit the whole enclosure. You could also just use newspaper or paper tiles if you don't care about asethics.

I would say the most important things is to make sure he has the correct diet, temps and UVB lighting.For a baby you want the basking spot to be at least 105°f and cool side to be around 80°f. Reptisun 10.0 t5 for the UVB source is highly recommended but you can go with a quality mercury vapor bulb that also doubles as a basking bulb. Make sure to use a quality calcium/vitamin dust for the feeders and don't forget to gut load your feeders too.

The poo looks like normal poo to me. You can always find a herp vet that is close and do an initial checkup, they are usually pretty cheap for a wellness check ($40-$80).

Compact bulbs aren't great, you want a fluorescent tube. Reptisun 10.0 and Arcadia 12% are the best brands, t5 and t8 refer to the size of the bulb, t5 is newer and better. It is stronger, lasts twice as long, and can be mounted above screens.

Here is a link to the bulb (we don't really get Arcadia in the US): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AQU8HAO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_AXrgpGlC8DdmF

And the fixture that I use: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AKKUBDQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_g1XbWxOdZdejr

With a 20l tank you'll want to mount that above the screen, ~8-9" from the basking spot, on the warm side. Provide a hide on the cool side to get out of the light. You can then use that same equipment when you upgrade to the adult tank. Under screen w/ reflector 12" from basking spot, above screen w/ reflector 8-9".

Edit: the basking bulb can be any bright white/yellow light that gets the basking spot to 100-110f, it doesn't need to be reptile branded.

Zoo Med 26061 Reptisun 10.0 T5-Ho Uvb 24W Fluorescent Lamp, 22" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AQU8HAO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Y3sQCb1SPVYGA

That's the bulb you want

Carolina Custom Cages Reptile 22" T5HO UVB Standard Light Fixture https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K2AY8EW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_84sQCb5VM0G0F

That's a good fixture for it, or you could go with a Reptisun brand fixture. Be aware that the free bulb included with the reptisun fixture is a 5.0 and you need a 10.0 bulb, so either way you'll be purchasing the bulb itself. T5 it's the way to go in my opinion because it could be mounted inside the enclosure or on top of a screen top. T8 sized bulbs need to be mounted inside.

here for your uvb:

buy this https://www.amazon.ca/Zoo-Med-26061-Reptisun-Fluorescent/dp/B00AQU8HAO/ref=sr_1_1?crid=21JSZM2WO8M3N&keywords=reptisun+t5+10.0&qid=1572226790&sprefix=reptisun+t5+1%2Caps%2C190&sr=8-1

put it in this https://www.amazon.ca/Zoo-Med-26054-Reptisun-Terrarium/dp/B00AQU8FR4/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=reptisun+t5+hood&qid=1572226798&sr=8-1

put the hood on screen, 9-10 inches from your basking spot

Are the green plants real or fake? If they're real, make sure it's something safe for them to eat in case he's been nibbling on it. Otherwise that's not a bad looking setup. The water dish is probably unnecessary but not likely to hurt anything. You probably want to move the UVB bulb over closer to the basking bulb so he's getting the UVB while basking, at least until you have a chance to replace it with the longer UVB bulb. As for the CHE at night, you really only need that if it's getting below 65 in the room at night.

What's his hotspot temps? It looks like you've provided him a basking area pretty close to the basking lamp so 150 watt might be a bit high. If you don't have one, I recommend getting a gun-style IR thermometer that you can use to take direct readings of his basking spot. If it's too hot or too cold it could also be impacting his appetite.

As for the UVB, you can't go wrong with a Reptisun 10.0. For that size tank you want to get the 22" long tube and an appropriate lamp for it. If you get the T5 instead of the T8 (this refers to the width of the tube) it will be strong enough that you can set it on top of the mesh like you've got the other lights, a T8 you'll have to mount inside the tank. https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-26061-Reptisun-Fluorescent/dp/B00AQU8HAO/ on Amazon or you can usually find at local shops.

How old is the beardie? It's quite possible that relocation stress is to blame for his lack of appetite, though 7 days seems a little excessive. Good that you aren't handling him yet. Keep on offering him food, hopefully he'll come around and start eating! If you've verified temps are where they should be, may want to consider a vet visit soon to rule out health issues if he doesn't start eating soon.

Read about the CHE on the sub's sidebar. So will be checking out a store today or simply ordering off of amazon. No colored lights in the tank.

The big thing i see with the Reptisun 10.0 is that most people hang them inside the tank so I'm guessing I should get a fixture that will fit under the mesh tank top.

These two will work? Or will any terrarium hood work?

Zoo Med 26061 Reptisun 10.0 T5-Ho Uvb 24W Fluorescent Lamp, 22" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AQU8HAO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_v89PAbDYCJZME

Zoo Med 26053 Reptisun T5-Ho Terrarium Hood, 24" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AQU8F2O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_k99PAbVNJ0Q7Y

CHE I'm looking at.

Ceramic Heat Emitter - Reptile Lamp 100 Watt Reptile Heat Bulb No Light Emitting Brooder Coop Heater 2 PACK,Black (2 Pack=100W) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079254FFP/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_a-9PAbRD583H1

Excuse the formatting I'm on mobile.

Zoo Med OS524 26061 Reptisun 10.0 T5-Ho Uvb 24W Fluorescent Lamp, 22" https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00AQU8HAO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_myf5BbG2Y8SAB

2 ft.T5 High 1-Bulb Output Fluorescent Grow Light Fixture https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00IPUHEXS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_RAf5BbPV0M27N

The fixture was a bit trickier for me to find and I had to get one on Amazon and not just my local department store because I was told that since my bulb was a HO (high output), I needed a HO light fixture.

Alright! So that fixture itself isn't bad, but the UVB bulb that is in there probably isn't great. There is a bunch of research that suggests those coil style UVB bulbs aren't great for our beardies and don't cover the tank in enough UV. This hood is what we use along with this bulb. This light should be on during the day and turned off at night. General consensus is at least 12 hours on. That hood may come with a bulb already, but if it does, it's probably the 5.0 which isn't strong enough for bearded dragons. That why I gave the link to the 10.0 version. This bulb should be replaced once a year even if still illuminates, as the capacity to produce UV diminishes after about a year.

The other thing in the fixture may be a CHE (ceramic heat emitter). If it just generates heat but no light, then that is what that is. You really only need that if the tank temperature drops below 75-70 degrees F. Make sure not to use any red or any lights at night as bearded dragons can see color and it will disrupt their sleeping.

Finally, it sounds like you don't have a basking light. Even though your house stays pretty warm, beardies still need a basking spot of around 105 degrees F. In the now empty spot where your old UVB bulb was, you can use one of these. Some people just use flood lights from Home Depot or elsewhere, just make sure it's not an LED one. You can use this light dimmer to control the light output to get the basking spot to the correct temperature. I would recommend this infrared temperature gun to check for the correct temperatures during the day and at night.

Lighting is one of the biggest things for bearded dragons and can take some time to get set up correctly. It's good to ask questions and research! I still learn new things about beardies all the time. I'll get pictures of our setup tomorrow and show you. I would tonight, but our babies are already sleeping!

One last thought, as some others have said, if you have an exotic vet nearby, it certainly wouldn't hurt to have Ember checked over. They can check for parasites or other issues before they become a problem.

My experience comes from a YBS. Map turtles appear to be a bit smaller, but in general look like they need the same kind of care (aquatic environment with room/heat to sun, UVB, etc.).

You can start with a small tank and upgrade, but I wouldn't recommend too many steps in here. In other words, it's a waste of money to start with a 10 gallon, upgrade to a 20, then a 50, then a 75, etc. The general rule of thumb seems to be 10 gallons per inch of shell. So a two inch turtle needs a 20 gallon tank, a fully grown female will need a 100 gallon tank. Petco has regular $1/gallon sales, up to X gallons. You could find a good deal on a 40 gallon breeder tank this way that would last you a good amount of time, and upgrade to a larger tank once you determined male/female and saved up some money. Or go smaller, but then you'll need to upgrade sooner. Don't forget, when you upgrade the tank, you'll likely need to upgrade the filter, lighting, etc.

Shopping List Not shopping around at all, so some prices may be high, but if I were setting things up like new for a 20 gallon long tank:

• Ceramic heat bulb, $20
  
• Heat Lamp Dome, $20
  
• T5 Terrarium Hood, $50
  
• T5 UVB Bulb, $25
  
• Canister Filter, $50
  
• Tank, $20
  
• Ramp, $15
  
  Add to this any aquarium decorations you might want, timers really help out for controlling lights. I also have an air pump on timers ($15, plus tubing and stones), mostly to help agitate the surface of the water. You'll probably want something like this or a surface skimmer to help keep the surface clear. Most of that stuff can wait, it's just extras, but hopefully it helps give you an idea. All total, you're looking at $200, rounded out on the high end. You can shave a lot off by shopping around though. When looking at filters, remember that turtles are dirtier than fish. I'd aim for one that's rated at 3x the size of the tank you have. So if you have a 20 gallon tank, even if it's only filled up half way, look at filters rated for 60 gallons or more. Edit: IIRC local pet stores sell starter kits with most of this included that would probably cut down on the price as well.
  
  Honestly never had a problem with my turtle that would rate a vet visit.
  
  Mine has nibbled at me before, but he's too small to do any damage. The only reason he has is when I'm feeding him treats or something, he's never bitten me to be aggressive. With the exception of snappers, I wouldn't call them an aggressive species, but like any animal, they'll each have a different personality.
  
  
  
  

this is my amazon cart, good to go?

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00IOBZT80/ref=crt_ewc_title_huc_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A1P1I67XNH4UOJ

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AQU8F2O/ref=crt_ewc_img_dp_2?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A2YKHLMXRLPQLV

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AQU8HAO/ref=crt_ewc_title_dp_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

I've been getting sooo many different opinions on lighting and feeding... I appreciate the help!

The heat lamp is fine but will probably blow rather quickly. I’d suggest that when I dose blow to get halogen flood lights from Walmart. They are normally 45 to 50 watts and in my experience heat much better and last longer.

The UVB bulb is a different story. Since it is focused on one spot it is not good. It can damage eyes from over exposure (the eyes are a very sensitive organ, which is why it’s to powerfully for eyes and not powerful enough in general) and it doesn’t emit enough uvb for a bearded dragon.

12 hours of artificial uvb equals about 2 hours of natural uvb. Beardie can be fine with this amount of uvb. However with a coil bulb if your dragon decides to hang on the cool side, they aren’t getting that 12 hours. One or two days of this won’t hurt but over time it can cause a medical disease called Metobolic Bine Disease. Which will basically turn bones into rubber.

this is the bulb you want

You’ll need a separate fixture for it. It can go intop if the screen because it’s t5 (Em It’s stronger UVB then t8s)

You can pick up and under the counter fixture met for led lights from Walmart or a hardware store or go with the fixture specifically met for reptiles. If you do the latter make sure the fixture you get is for the t5 bulb. T8 bulbs will not fit in t5 fixtures and vice versa.

Oh, now I see. So https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-26061-Reptisun-Fluorescent/dp/B00AQU8HAO/ref=sr_1_3?s=pet-supplies&ie=UTF8&qid=1502513545&sr=1-3&keywords=ReptiSun+10.0 would be better in the long run? And would it better to mount it above the cage then or just possible to do so? (sorry that sentence was a bit confusing)

The uvb bulb doesn’t give off much heat so the other side of the tank will still be cooler if you have your basking bulb on the warm side.
Zoo Med 26061 Reptisun 10.0 T5-Ho Uvb 24W Fluorescent Lamp, 22" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AQU8HAO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Z2uQBb1MEZKCH

That brand would be the one to go to, you can buy the hood for it as well on amazon. Online is always cheaper than in stores.

As for the dubia roaches try searching in your area for reptile centers or shops they usually carry them.

It depends on your fixture. You can choose a T5 or T8 bulb

Mine is this T5: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AQU8HAO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_73C4BbK9V8FSQ

Interesting. So do you think you can combine thing like this:

• https://www.amazon.co.uk/Zoo-Med-Reptisun-10-0-Lamp/dp/B00AQU8HAO
  
• https://www.amazon.co.uk/Twin-Pack-Aluminium-Reflector-Increased-output/dp/B00K837M8M/ref=sr_1_fkmr2_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1539871637&sr=8-1-fkmr2&keywords=t5+reptile+reflector
  
  • i guess that just clips to the tube
    
• https://www.amazon.co.uk/Wattlite-Slimline-Fluorescent-Complete-Diffuser/dp/B00IQRMR1E/ref=sr_1_5?s=lighting&ie=UTF8&qid=1539872088&sr=1-5&keywords=t5+fitting
  
  • (obviously not using that tube)
    
    What do you think?

For a basking light, pretty much any white halogen or incandescent bulb is fine. No need to spend a crazy amount on a reptile specific brand, it's the same bulb.

For uvb, I use this bulb and fixture.
https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-26061-Reptisun-Fluorescent/dp/B00AQU8HAO/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&ref=yo_pop_d_pd_title

https://www.amazon.com/Carolina-Custom-Cages-Standard-Reflector/dp/B00K2AY8EW/ref=redir_mobile_desktop?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&ref=yo_pop_d_pd_title

A lot of people suggest arcadia bulbs. I've never used them but they're a good option as well.

For night heat, don't use any light. They are diurnal and the light will mess with their day/night cycle. Unless it gets below about 75 degrees in the enclosure, you don't need anything. If it's colder than that, get a ceramic heat emitter.

Thanks! I've been checking on him a lot, but not going into the enclosure, and he's more colorful now and less dark. The stress lines on his stomach are 90% gone. I put that MVB (thanks for identifying it for me!) on top of the mesh on the cage, so it's about an inch closer, and he seems to be liking it more (less "squished frog" basking and more "look at m proud beard" basking).

The sand is like a really hard, packed sand...I'm not sure if it was a mix of something that they set up at first, but I'm pretty sure I'm going to set it up to be tile inside his new home, leaving the option for a "bioactive" setup at some point once I know more about what he needs and am used to his requirements and behaviors and stuff.

For that lamp fixture, does the size have to match absolutely? I found this Zoo Med 26061 Reptisun 10.0 T5-Ho Uvb 24W Fluorescent Lamp, 22"
bulb on Amazon with Prime, but it's 2" shorter than the fixture. Would that matter? (Sorry, I've got zero experience with lighting fixtures...I just change the bulbs in my house for my silly Human requirements).

With the salad, right now we're trying the "paper towel trick" but also leaving some in his bowl. No bites yet, but I'll wait until he's been here for a couple of weeks before I start worrying more then.

Thanks, /u/thepienosaur!

Does not look like you have correct lighting.

​

https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-26061-Reptisun-Fluorescent/dp/B00AQU8HAO/ref=pd_cp_199_3?pd_rd_w=Pb2RT&pf_rd_p=ef4dc990-a9ca-4945-ae0b-f8d549198ed6&pf_rd_r=197FW6ZWBPG71J8YYE5R&pd_rd_r=9329ceb9-b6a0-4853-b5ba-837bf4aef58e&pd_rd_wg=SNAjr&pd_rd_i=B00AQU8HAO&psc=1&refRID=197FW6ZWBPG71J8YYE5R

abou the lighting you want the heater on a thermostat to controll the temps and bearded dragons need full spectrum uvb, you want to have a tube bulb like this one https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-26061-Reptisun-Fluorescent/dp/B00AQU8HAO/ref=sr_1_2?keywords=reptisun+10%2C0&qid=1562595961&s=pet-supplies&sr=1-2 1

They also sell T5, http://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-ReptiSun-10-0-Lamp/dp/B00AQU8HAO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1396731103&sr=8-1&keywords=reptisun+t5

Oh and to answer your question about the light lol, I use a single 400w HPS but plan to run a second 400w in flower for my current grow, 1 using an HPS bulb, another using an MH.

One MH (which my specific bulb covers a wide violet, blue, green, yellow spectrum) and one HPS high in red with some blue. The UVB from the MH is suppose to really enhance the frostiness of the flower, there's a myth to use MH the last 2 weeks when in reality it would be best added straight into flower, possibly right after the stretch ends and budding begins.

If I had to suggest to you, I'd go with HPS + LED, HPS for dense, pretty frosty buds and LED to provide them with the rest of the color temps they desire for full potential.

T5s would work fine along with the HPS too, most use reptile bulbs for UVB supplementing alongside their HPS.

https://www.amazon.com/Zoo-Med-26061-Reptisun-Fluorescent/dp/B00AQU8HAO

The Reptisun 10.0 t5 is powerful enough to be mounted above mesh. It's also rated for 1 year on a 12 hour on/off cycle. A t8 should be mounted below the mesh and changed every 6 months.