Best card stocks according to redditors
We found 32 Reddit comments discussing the best card stocks. We ranked the 17 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 32 Reddit comments discussing the best card stocks. We ranked the 17 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
Copics are going to be very different from microns.
First off, the kind of paper you pick matters. I recommend either this specific hammermill or cardstock. Paper size doesn't matter, though smaller will save ink.
You don't want paper with a tooth, you don't really want marker paper, and you don't want sketchbook. You want completely smooth, even paper, with enough absorbency to not bleed, but not enough to soak all the ink out of your marker, hence the previous recommendations.
Secondly, there are blending families. I'm gonna give you a few examples here. Colors 2-3 steps apart will blend very easily. Like... N1, N3, N5, N7. Or RV11, RV14, RV17, RV19. If you try to blend RV11 and RV19 without a step in between, you'll have a hard time and it's not gonna look good.
Similarly, it's harder to blend colors of different color families. But if you keep the intensity close, it'll work (last number in the color name). Another example of what I mean.
See how the V09 doesn't really blend at all with the YR04? 4 and 9 would be a hard sell on their own, but with them being complementary colors, it's nearly impossible.
To blend, you put down your first (lightest) color ONCE. Then, for subtle blending, you go over some of that area again with the same color. Areas with 2 coats will be slightly darker than ones with just one.
To blend two colors, again put down one coat of your lightest color. Then take the slightly darker color and put it adjacent to the first one. Then, where they meet, go over the darker color with the lighter one. This will move the ink around and result in a blend. You can keep alternating until you have a mix you're happy with, though paper will reach maximum saturation sooner or later, at which point more layers won't do much.
Copics aren't really used to gently put down colors next to each other and leave a lot of white. If you're gonna leave white spots, have the adjacent color be either a 0000, 000, or end with a 0 or 1.
Then layer, layer, layer. Don't want till the first color is dry. Blend it while it's still wet. You almost always want to work with two colors at a time. Hope that helps!
Edit: note that I didn't push my examples to full blend. The strokes are still fairly noticeable in some. You can do circular motions to avoid having the strokes show, or go over them enough times to get more even color.
For ink (markers, dip pens, paint markers) I use this paper: Hammermill Paper, Premium Color Copy Cover Cardstock 8.5 x 11 Paper https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SN0PI88/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ivNgDbJKG1176
It's a lot cheaper than artist paper, is easy to bind, and comes in different sizes so you can get the paper grain going the right way.
For watercolor I like bee paper (bee is the brand name) because it's a good balance of quality and price, though I've only ever bought small sheets so I'm not sure about finding it in large sheets to cut down for a sketchbook. If you're going through the trouble of binding a book I'd use a high quality paper like this one (or better).
Ugh, there's nothing worse than having great line art for coloring be ruined by shitty quality paper.
>I'm too lazy to copy everything to better paper
Doing this actually isn't that difficult! The best paper I've found for printing line art on to is the Springhill, Digital Vellum Cover White, 80lb paper. (There are some better quality papers that are specifically for colored pencils, but they don't come in reams (they're in spiral-bound notebooks with perforated pages) and they have to be trimmed down to 8.5" x 11".) It has a really great weight, and the paper has a lot of tooth for the colored pencil pigments. Through trial and error, I found that the tooth is the single biggest determination of how well colored pencils will work on it. Little-to-no tooth means that the colored pencil pigment won't really "stick" to the paper very will and, as more is added, will just begin to smear around instead of blending nicely.
Once you have your ream of Springhill Digital Vellum (or whatever paper you choose to use), you can take your coloring book to someplace like FedEx/Kinkos or whatever copying store of your choice. Hand them the coloring book and tell them you'd like them to cut off the spine of the book. (Note: their company policy prevents them from copying copyrighted materials, even if you are doing it for purposes which fall under "fair use" protections... which I would argue that this is). I believe they'll charge you like $1.50 or something per cut, but it makes the whole process a lot easier.
Then you can take your pages over the self-service printers, load your Springhill paper into the side tray, throw the pages in the document feeder, and then hit the "Copy" button. You'll probably be in and out of there in 15 minutes and you'll have the entire book reprinted on nice paper for maybe less than $10 (not counting the cost of the ream of Springhill).
 
I did this, myself, a couple of times after getting books with great art but shit paper. It's absolutely worth doing it. Later, I ended up getting a better printer at home that has an automatic feed document scanner and just reprint the art at home.
Ok - There are so many ways you could go here! Links as examples only. You can get this stuff anywhere.
To decorate cards/ envelopes she has purchased, your best bet is WASHI TAPE. Washi tape is a paper tape that is removable but also sticks really well. It's relatively affordable and comes in tons of different designs. A large number of people active on this sub have an
unhealthybeautiful obsession with washi tape. Themed sticker sets like this or this are also great to add decor to cards. You can always find something in her style.If you want to start her off on making her own cards, you can still start with washi and stickers. You can also add in some blank cards that she can use as a base (Not this set though, it's too pricey for what you get) or maybe some patterned paper or heavy cardstock.
Hope that helps start you off right! Always happy to answer any questions :)
For a matte, super thick feel I have used Accent Opaque Cover Smooth 100# White, my printer is able to pick up the thickness, sometimes I need to hand feed it but with clean rollers it’s fine.
I also really like Hammermill Smooth 100lb Cover, it’s got a nice velvety smooth feel to it, not as mega-thick as the Accent Opaque but still a substantial card thickness to feel elegant. This one tends to feed a little easier in my printer the Accent Opaque is very very sturdy.
I did try a single sided gloss once...the only inkjet compatible one I was able to find is from Desktop Publishing Supplies here though in the end I just really liked the look that a matte card gave and because the papers I use were thick already, the quality seemed to be very good without it needing that shiny look on the outside.
I fold everything by hand - since my file is set up 2/page I actually fold the whole letter paper in half (vertically) once by hand, then press the crease down more a second time using a bone folder, and then trim the folded sheet into two cards so the edges aren’t as staggered.
Are you saying nothing more than luck for which slabs do or don’t get them during the encapsulation process, or nothing more than luck if someone ships a slab definitely without rings, but when it arrives it might have rings?
I’m curious about the latter option. I’ve sold a few slabs on eBay and if they have rings, I explain it in my item description. I’m wondering if eBay sellers just try to be deceptive and not mention them with pics taken at just the right angle to hide them, or if the rings can somehow form during travel.
My method for removing them: depends on what you mean by newer cases. I’ve only seen a few from 2018 or newer so far, but those seem much tighter than any I’ve seen before. My method below did not work for a 2018 slab I had that had so little give I was too nervous to proceed.
I don’t know if it has a name, but I go the knife/paper route, which I’ve seen people complain about online and how it can cause streaking. Key difference for me, though, is the quality of paper used. Regular 20 lb is far too flimsy (can tear easily) and it’s coarse. Card stock resolves the flimsiness, but too thick and increases the likeliness of streaking since its also pretty coarse. I looked at several different types of paper and finally settled on a 110 index sheet that is soft, flexible and very smooth. I’ve used it on 5 different slabs now and it’s left no streaks. Beyond smaller rings reappearing in one slab (though much less noticeable than before), I’ve had no issues.
Paper: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B006P1EQXA?psc=1&ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
If you try this method, make sure the knives are thin and blunt, and most importantly, test on a relatively cheap slab before diving in. It was damn nerve-wracking my first try, but the last one I did about a week ago was super smooth.
EDIT: Didn’t actually explain the method. The bottom of the slab can usually be gently pried open a mm or so with your fingers. Do this very gently and use one thin, blunt knife to keep the case “open”. Push it gently as far to one corner as possible without straining the seam of the case too much. Use another knife on the opposite corner in the same way. Don’t try to insert the knife too far into the case. You only want a few mm in, and the knife should definitely not be getting close to touching the comic. Measure the distance between the two knives and cut a strip of paper that width hotdog style. Carefully slide the paper into the gap and aim it at the rings. Take the paper out, gently remove the knives, and the rings should be gone. Note that you may have to repeat if a ring reappears. One slab I tried this on had a ring that reappeared, but a second try erased it and hasn’t come back since. Again remember: gentleness and HQ paper are the key!
Oh yeah, that stuff isn't great for pens at all. It makes the lines a little fuzzier than they should be.
Bristol is great for finished pieces, but is a tiny bit on the expensive side. Whenever I am just sketching or doodling with pens, I used laser printer paper. It absorbs the pens really nice without bleeding, and is really affordable. This is what I ordered last time:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SN0PI88/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
This cardstock works great with copics.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SN0PI88/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_jKIvDbR069HHH
Looks like the invitations themselves went up in price, but this is what I got:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00YAXTFJK?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00RJC6CQ8?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
For the info insert, I used printable postcards I snagged at the thrift store. Good luck!
What's it called? I really like the art style, but I hate that kind of page. Your coloring looks fantastic, though!
Also you might find my earlier post helpful —
>What's the name of the book? Sometimes there will be a bad batch, and you can get it replaced. But I also got a book that felt like magazIne pages once, and apparently every copy was like that — couldn't use any media on it.
>I often copy pages onto my own paper even if the coloring book has nice pages because I don't have to worry about messing up. You can get really expensive stuff, but this works well.
Staple the acoustic panels to these cardboard panels. Then either staple or tac the panels to your walls. Are you allowed to make holes in your walls if you're just renting the place, though?
All feed back is appreciated. I forgot to mention this can be targeted by income, so I'll likely hit the neighborhoods $60k plus, in addition to near where I live.
Also, for those of you new to printing, etc. DO NOT USE A INK JET!!! That's like 0.30 per page. Instead use a laser jet, such as this:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008ABLJHE?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s02
The used one is $100 and will come with ink for like 1,000 pages or more. Once you get the refill ink, like from here:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D5Z46ZW?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s03
That $100 can make about 3,500 pages or $0.03 / page. For this type of thing, regular paper is fine, but you can also use a nice card stock (about 0.60 / page vs 0.02 / page)
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006P1EQXA?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_search_detailpage
This might seem obvious, but have you been to Michaels?
I bought a bunch of card stock when i was making my wedding invitations (used a dark blue for inside of envelope). I remember seeing something similar to yours because I thought it was so pretty.
I seem to remember them having 100s of different varieties of card stock.
Edit: This is kind of similar, not a perfect match though
Edit 2: Here's another variety from Amazon
I prefer smooth, thick paper as well, which is why I used card stock the first time(my main medium is pen/ink). I wanted to be able to use a bit of watercolor and ink washes in my sketchbook though, and card stock doesn't hold up well with those mediums, despite its thickness. Also, a lot of the card stock I've seen has this strange... shininess to it? It's also hard to find it in ivory or cream colors, which are warmer and easy on my eyes.
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That being said, I still have no problem using it. I've just been on the quest for/fantasizing about the perfect paper for so long(such is the life of an artist). Ideally, it would be something similar to Moleskine's paper, since it is the perfect color, soft, smooth texture, not too thick but thick enough to not show through, and somehow still supports wet media without much of an issue at all.
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I found out that it is 120gsm FSC paper in ivory, and I think that yesterday I finally found a match. It's pretty cheap, too($6.32/100 sheets), and I can't wait to try it soon.
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Link for anyone who's curious: https://www.amazon.co.uk/120gsm-Paper-Ivory-100-Sheets/dp/B00VZJYHK4
For "prints" - I'm able to make 300 that have substantial amount of white space...as in not completely full color edge-to-edge, but illustration, or lots of colored text & boxes on white background. But I find to print 2 A2 cards on a sheet with a full bleed is about 30-40 seconds or so. I haven't used a stopwatch or what not, but I usually just let the printer do it's thing, I run off and do errands like the dishes, and just come back to make sure the ink isn't streaking if it's warned me that it's low. Usually a sign the ink is low is if there's like a skip in the print, or a very thin line...or if a color like magenta is done then the print will be lacking the pink tones.
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I get everything from Amazon, and currently I've found these to work great:
I've also found great color with the other following papers:
100 piece blank cards
40 pieces blank cards and envelopes
Were they all on the same paper? I think I might have used some spare bristol for one of them maybe, but if they're all the same then I used this exact ream :D I also have a ream of non-cover Hammermill (28 lb I believe) that also works well, it just bleeds through more since it's thinner. Not that there's any paper out there that doesn't bleed through, you always need scratch paper underneath haha. I liked how this brand accepts ink so much that I actually called Hammermill and told a representative how much I liked it lol.
Over the last month I've found that the Copic XPress It blending cards do work better with marker (I've got mostly Prismas and some Copics, and a couple W&N) than the Hammermill especially for blending, it's just so very much cheaper to order 250 sheets of paper that doesn't allow for much blending than to order 20 sheets for the same price. Plus it works fine for straight washes and layering, which is what I mostly use. And it's just an absolute dream for inking.
I haven't tried any other papers (beyond other varieties of xerox paper) but here is a very in-depth review on several of the most recommended papers out there for markers, if you're curious about other brands!
In the past when I've had to photograph a gold reflective surface I usually bounced the light against shiny gold craft paper like this. Probably could have also bought a large 5in1 reflector with a gold side, but sometimes thats more yellow than "gold."
All my exes live in Texas, that's why I hang my hat in Tennessee.
(True story: my ex wanted me to move to Texas. I hate the heat. I'm a northern girl).
I'd eat these Jelly Bellys if someone bought them for me but I avoid buying candy on my own because if I do I end up buying too much XD
And I'd buy this cardstock if I was given $10 because I like making paper crafts :)
Paper/Stock Paper
https://www.amazon.com/Multi-purpose-Pastels-Paper-Wrapped-8-5X11/dp/B000FS3ICY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1472705719&sr=8-1&keywords=pastel+green+paper+and+envelope
https://www.amazon.com/Color-Card-Stock-Paper-Sheets/dp/B00RSIK13I/ref=pd_sim_sbs_229_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=Y6SZQSN4TJXVVBV6Q5SZ
Matching Envelopes (x 50)
https://www.amazon.com/Green-Invitation-Wedding-Announcement-Envelopes/dp/B00DID4DZO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1472705575&sr=8-1&keywords=mint+green+envelopes
Ooooohhhh you know what, I want to go with something silly, but i really need more paper. Its in my list called "art things".
Thank you so much! I had so much fun. :3
I love the theme!
Wall decals for decorations
Mad scientist invitations
Last time I printed business cards it was with a 405 yellow and a 300 yellow screen with Speedball acylics. Printed 8up on a letter sized 110# smooth cover (Classic Crest ). You need to air dry the sheets but you can set up a fan to speed that along. Pretty straight forward but also pretty expensive when you can get 500 cards printed for under $20 USD now a days.
Thank you so much. I'll poke around to see if it's good for printmaking techniques! Here's what I found: https://www.amazon.com/Classic-Crest-Cover-Solar-White/dp/B000JFDE5Y
This is really good paper for copics:
http://www.amazon.com/Hammermill-Color-Digital-Sheets-120023/dp/B000J0C47S
Cheap, nice and smooth, and the pages are almost as thick as cardstock too. It's 80lb paper, so it absorbs a hell of a lot of marker and lets you do a lot of layering.
Thank you so much for your thorough reply! This was immensely helpful; I never knew that there was so much to learn about paper! 110lb Index it is!
I'll be sure to get a rotary trimmer as well.
Is there much of a difference other than sheet capacity between the rotary cutter you recommended and a cheaper one? (e.g.http://www.amazon.com/Fiskars-Titanium-SureCut-Trimmer-01-005454/dp/B003SLC3IU/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1457236889&sr=8-11&keywords=rotary+paper+trimmer)
Also, sorry for all the paper questions, but do you think 80lb cover paper would be better? Or is that coated and therefore unsuitable? http://www.amazon.com/Hammermill-Color-Digital-Sheets-120023/dp/B000J0C47S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1457238143&sr=8-1&keywords=80lb+cover
Thank you for your time!