Best flash triggers according to redditors
We found 217 Reddit comments discussing the best flash triggers. We ranked the 67 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 217 Reddit comments discussing the best flash triggers. We ranked the 67 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
Probably with one of these + a scanner + photoshop
he speaks the truth
If you're a total, total newb, I suggest the Yongnuo 565EX. 150 bucks and change, has the power and most of the ability of the 580EX II, and if you're not a pro wedding photographer or something where every shot is life or death, it will work fantastic for you. Then you'd have a few shekels left over to buy the Yongnuo 602C radio trigger. They're cheap as dirt. Then you're not limited to line-of-sight, you can fire from another room if you want.
Then get a 4 pack/charger of the Sanyo Eneloop rechargeables.
565EX:
http://www.amazon.com/Yongnuo-YN-565EX-Speedlite-Flash-Canon/dp/B005HYMUX4/
Radio Trigs:
http://www.amazon.com/Yongnuo-Wireless-Trigger-Receiver-Shutter/dp/tags-on-product/B0042TYNJ4
Eneloops:
www.amazon.com/Sanyo-eneloop-Pre-Charged-Rechargeable-Batteries/dp/B004RP2VNI/
Higher power flash (25% stronger) with more flexibility and options (radio trigger), plus powerful batteries for less than the cost of the 430 EX.
I have two 580EX's and two of these guys. The IR on the EX series is terrible for, say, when you're trying to backlight a subject and the subject is standing between you and the flash. No problem with radio triggers. I have pocketwizards now but the yongnuo triggers can't be beat for the price.
Edit: If you want to save 10 bucks and are willing to wait for out-of-country airmail, found the 565EX for a little less here:
http://www.dealextreme.com/p/yongnuo-y565ex-2-0-lcd-ttl-flash-speedlite-speedlight-for-canon-dslr-black-4-x-aa-104413
Same company sells a lightstand converter/umbrella holder for your speedlite too:
http://www.dealextreme.com/p/360-swivel-flash-stand-bracket-umbrella-holder-c-type-33540
I agree, I have similar tools that are great. I recommend the Yongnuo is $35 flash system, its pretty reliable
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01I09WHLW x 2 - Speedlights - $56
https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Wireless-Speedlite-Receiver-Universal/dp/B00A47U22U - Wireless Trigger - $19
https://www.amazon.com/CowboyStudio-Photography-Light-Stands-Cases/dp/B001WB02Z4 - Light Stands - $29
https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Professional-Universal-Speedlite-Umbrella/dp/B00JJJR7PY - x2 - Cold Shoe - $22
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0132I34K4 - Octobox - $23
https://www.amazon.com/Fotodiox-Premium-Shoot-Through-Translucent-Umbrella/dp/B005ODKMOC - Shoot though umbrella - $14
https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-43-inch-Collapsible-Multi-Disc-Reflector/dp/B002ZIMEMW - 5 in 1 reflector - $20
That brings you for a full starting light setup that can be used for headshots and starting boudoir for $183. And you even have flexablity in there to use a 1 light setup with reflector or use 2 lights. You would want a few sandbags to keep the gear stable, but I am not including those in the price.
Now for a background setup
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E6GRHBO/ref=psdc_3444601_t1_B00MTF6ZVC
Is a good basic stand but hard to fit under your budget with the above lighting gear.
https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Studio-Collapsible-Backdrop-1-8x2-8m/dp/B00UWL02PU is also an okay starting backdrop, Grey can be turned into white or black. I will warn you that you will need a fabric steamer to get the lines out, but that is pretty much the same however you go with cloth. Another more expensive choice is to go with seamless paper, I love working with paper, but it is an ongoing expense to use it.
Now if you are going to make this her studio all the time, they make http://www.homedepot.com/p/EUCATILE-32-sq-ft-96-in-x-48-in-Hardboard-Thrifty-White-Tile-Board-HDDPTW48/205995949 that you can use to make a great background. Or to me the better option if you are going to use a room as a full time studio, paint the walls, put down hardwood or laminate, and you have a great studio setup.
My suggestion is three of the Cactus V5 radio transceivers, two Yongnuo YN560 flashes, and two light stand kits with umbrella mount and a shoot-through umbrella
It's an inexpensive, reliable, portable, and powerful setup that works with every camera with a hotshoe. The three drawbacks are that flash power can only be controlled on the flashes themselves, the flashes are manual-only, and Canon bodies don't trigger non-ETTL flashes or transmitters in liveview mode. If you're doing home-studio work, none of those will matter. It's just something to be aware of. And definitely read David "Strobist" Hobby's blog.
I had the same problem taking pics of my son. My advice would be to start with an inexpensive flash. First, I bought a Yongnuo 560 flash super cheap on Amazon (sixty bucks). I pointed it up at the ceiling, and it helped both freeze the action and illuminate the whole scene, while avoiding the harsh directional shadows that pointing your flash directly at your subject gets you. (Thankfully, we have white walls...if your walls are painted strong colors like red or purple etc, bouncing off them might not work so well, color-wise). So that's one setup, and it's fun, but the light can be a little hard to control when you're trying to follow a busy toddler. This is what ceiling-bounce flash looks like. This photo was shot on my Canon t2i, which has a crop sensor. You will notice, however, that he's in his crib, which meant he was a little easier to track instead of him scooting around on the floor, which I found pretty frustrating. I used a 40mm lens, which made it easier to get in close.
Then I also ended up getting an inexpensive off-camera radio trigger (twenty bucks). This allowed me to set up my flash in one place to fill the room, and to use inexpensive modifiers like a shoot through umbrella and light stand. This is what that setup looks like. All of these lighting tools will cost less than a new lens, and will open up lots of possibilities.
Of the lenses you mentioned, the only reason I would recommend a 35 over a 50 is that it's wider. I was often frustrated by my crop sensor because we have a small apartment, so I wasn't really able to get close enough. I ended up graduating to a full sensor because of that. The second photo you see here was shot on a full-frame sensor...but a crop sensor works just as well.
Check out the tutorials on Strobist.com to get started with flash techniques (which are not at all complicated). Youtube also has a ton of strobist tutorials. But if you don't want to do that, here's how you get started: set your aperture to 5.6, your ISO to 100, and your shutter speed to 100. Set the flash to half power (so that half the lights on the back are lit up). Then, if it's too dark, use the arrow buttons to up the flash power one stop at a time. It's super easy, and really fun.
If you have extra questions, PM me and good luck!
Tl;dr: if you want to freeze motion and add some decent light, get a cheap flash and point it at the ceiling.
http://www.amazon.com/Nishika-N8000-Quadrascopic-Stereo-Lenticular/dp/B0014XRI5C
Photoshop.
If you're just starting, don't waste your money on Pocket Wizards (I'm sure I'll get downvoted for saying that). Instead, pick up some cheap Chinese ones like the Cactus triggers. Sure, they are full manual triggers (they don't pass thru TTL info), but shooting manual flashes will help you learn. You'll also save a lot of money — it's $60 for a pair vs ~$175-200. I've shot with them for three years and have never had a problem.
Here ya go!
Dont know what that other guy is on about. But these photos are taken using a special camera with multiple lenses, like this.
Also check out /r/wigglegrams for more like it.
I asked about a picture Rocky posted a few months ago if you want to check out the thread
I always just assumed N8000s sold for cheap because, despite the 4-lens thing, they are obviously as shitty as a camera gets.
But nope. $400 on Amazon.
If you have a tripod, you could always use something similar to this. I got one so I could take pictures of my entire family, instead of just the wife and kids. It works wonders!
Pretty sure he uses this camera. He's definitely using 35mm film.
https://www.amazon.com/Nishika-N8000-Quadrascopic-Stereo-Lenticular/dp/B0014XRI5C
A flash remote, here is a random Amazon listing for one of them:
https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Wireless-Speedlite-Receiver-Universal/dp/B00CO2WP0U
I don't consider myself a great photographer, but I can certainly help with this question for once.
Each year I visit DragonCon (like Comic-Con but less Comics more Sci-Fi and Fantasy Cosplay) and I shoot with the following setup:
This particular Round Flash diffuser is bulky and sometimes awkward in crowds, but I've tried out several including FlashDisc, various square diffusers, and another "macro" diffuser made by the same company. RoundFlash is by far the most beautiful light for the portability and effort at around $60.
So basically I use a dual-camera strap except on my right hand I put the camera + lens + transmitter on on the left hip I've got the flash gun + the round flash diffuser. I know this sounds weird but DragonCon is also about partying, so this setup lets me literally go hands free while carrying two beers and leaving the flash / camera at my side.
Moving the flash off the camera makes for much more flattering light.
I typically shoot at ISO 400-800 depending on how dark it is, normally at F/1.8 - F/2.0 for single individuals, of course I stop down to around F/4 to F/7 for bigger group shots.
Shutter speed I'll very the most, but I've gone anywhere from 1/160 anywhere up to around 1/800 if there is actually more light. After 1/250 your camera should be capable of High Speed Sync. Now if you have that much light, you don't necessarily need the flash, but I treat it like a portrait - I have the flash to separate the subject from the background, and to get those catchlights in the eyes, to me, makes them pop.
I raise the flash up above my head basically treating it like a beauty dish, firing the flash down at them up and across 30 degrees. I'm usually only a matter of about 3-4 feet away. I do this with a 35mm and correct for any warping in Lightroom because at least at Dragoncon, its shoulder to shoulder and sometimes I can't step back and get a good photo.
Of course you can save money here in a few ways compared to my setup:
I'm currently working on changing my setup to a Fuji X-100F that shoots at 2.0 and is way more light-weight than the D750, but I still use the same exact flash setup.
Going to work, but here's a few examples, will post again later if you'd like:
sample photos
Edit: These are nearly right out of the camera, only adjusted slightly for shadows and highlights. Also added a few more details of my setup.
Edit again: Before somebody says it, yes I underexpose the ambient lighting - I just kind of like that style. At cons there are always 100 people in the background, so exposing the ambient lighting down helps to minimize their presence in the photo.
Yongnuo YN-685 flash and YN-622C trigger. For $150 you've got wireless off camera flash. I've retired my Canon 580EXII in favor of that combo although I still use it in multi flash setups since I already have it. Spend the other $50 on light modifiers.
Im going to apologize in advance for links, im on mobile.
I have this yongnuo flash https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PGTOX26/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_cDbdBbQERE1DE
And this trigger https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JVEXRE2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_YEbdBb9TKN17R
They both work extremely well and reliably. I'm not super well versed in off camera flash but you could easily keep the yongnuo on camera and optically trigger the canon or remote trigger the yongnuo to have both flashes off camera as you described with the 2 products I linked. Good luck!
Guessing it's a party vs. something you could add some lights? Your main issue will be light from the fire will be prominent, and it'll make silhouettes of everyone.
Maybe you could string a bunch of party lights over/around the area to get some fill that would balance out with any actual fire. I'd try for a warm or amber color (traditional filament bulbs will read as amber/orange on daylight film, LEDs you'd want a warm white or amber). Filters will just cut your exposure even more, but shooting daylight neg film in this situation will give you a warm look that you can balance out in printing/post to some extent. The lights could give some interesting compositions and bokeh.
If it were me (a guy who likes lighting and has some gear) I'd take a battery-powered manual flash like the cheap-used Vivitar 285, tape an orange gel to it (like a 1/2 CTO), stick a cheap Chinese radio slave on it, and have someone hold it up high and pointed where I wanted it. You'd need a flash meter or a DSLR to suss out the power of the flash. I do this a lot to mix tungsten light with flash in a small rig that doesn't need cables or stands. If you look at the BG of that shot, it's like 1/2 second exposure and has some motion blur, but the flash freezes the subject, which could be a cool look at a party.
If it's just you and a camera, fastest film you can get, shoot wide open, and really brace your body for longer exposure. With practice, you can shoot like 1/15th wide wider lenses. If you want to use your 135, might bring a tripod or monopod.
These are taken with a special film camera called Nishika N8000 3-D Camera
Some cheap wireless flash triggers (like this or this) also can be configured as wireless shutter triggers, and so are multi-purpose.
Yes, with an intervalometer like this, for example:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/Andoer-Viltrox-Intervalometer-Control-Shutter/dp/B00N3JQW7U
I have a couple of YN-560 II's and they've worked great for over a year. I use them with Cactus V5 triggers and they've performed well.
If you're going to do any shooting with a flash on the camera, you'll want to get a YN-468 such as this one because it has TTL metering while the 560 does not. If you're wanting two lights, I suggest one 560 and one 468 just so you have TTL capability if you ever need it.
Eneloop batteries are a great addition with the flashes. They last forever.
> Is there a cheaper alternative to the SU-800?
I use the YongNuo 603 II triggers. You will need one for camera hot shoe and one for each flash. If you want TTL and HSS capabilities, look at the YongNuo 622N.
No matter what kind of lens you use, it really comes down to lighting. Properly diffused lighting. I would spend the $150-200 on a pair of strobes like this and product box like this. You'll also need this to fire the speedlights. It all comes out to about $135 before shipping.
As u/ReverserMover says, that's not two transmitters, that a transmitter and a receiver. Since the V860II-C already has a transceiver built-in, you only need a transmitter, either the Xpro-C or the X1T-C. The X1R-C is if you need to throw a 580EXII or other non-Godox flash into the mix.
The X1T transmitter is older than the XPro; the interface isn't as nice, the controls are a little harder to work, and it doesn't have some of the XPro features. But it is less expensive and has a flash hotshoe up top. It can also do hypersync timing adjustment (another way of getting faster-than-sync-speed flash) and single-pin mode (useful on non-Canon bodies) while the XPro cannot.
The XPro is smaller and angled, so you won't bump it/inadvertently change settings with your forehead. And it has a number of new features the X1T doesn't:
There's also a newer iteration of the Xpro coming out (exclusively) from Adorama, the Flashpoint R2 Pro II, which costs the same as the Xpro, but may be harder to source outside the USA. It looks like the UI on the II is even better than the one on the Xpro and it also does Bluetooth integration with the Godox Photo app (iOS/Android) so you can control your lights from your phone.
You may want to look at Flash Havoc's reports on all three units (X1T, XPro, R2 Pro II), as well as Robert Hall's video preview on the XPro and R2 Pro II. Hall's XPro video is a little hilarious, since he was given the Canon version to play with and he's a Nikon shooter, so he couldn't actually test it for the review and had no idea what ID codes are for. ID codes (which now also work with the X1T, if the firmware is up to date) lets you assign a two-digit code that has to match on both the transmitter and the light for triggering to work. It's to keep another Godox user/wi-fi router/wireless devices in close proximity on the same channel from firing your lights.
One small note: I know everybody recommends the V860II, but if you want to save some cash, you could also get a TT685-C ($110) and just use AAs instead of li-on packs. :) UI/features wise, aside from the power source they're pretty much identical. Full power recycle is a little slower (0.25s) with the TT685, but the TT685 also has an external battery pack port while the V860II does not.
Unless you plan to be an all-day event shooter (weddings) or something, the li-on pack's bigger capacity may not be worth the proprietary nature and additional cost of the li-on packs; especially if you already own a mess of NiMh rechargeable AAs. The V860II is great for folks who are sick of dealing with dozens of AAs. But just starting out, if you're a hobbyist, your usage pattern may not be heavy enough to require it. Also, it's rumored that Godox is about to release a round-head flash (read: Profoto A1, er... tribute), which might be nicer than the V860II if you do need a li-on speedlight.
If you can get without TTL there are the yongnuo flashes, I've personally tried the yn560iv and the yn685 with their triggers. As for triggers you should use the YN560-TX. All of these must be the Canon versions (not the nikon ones).
With the trigger you can set your flash(es) parameters from it (without touching the flashes themselves) which is a big advantage once you've set the flashes in place, maybe inside a softbox, etc.
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Don't buy the yn-622c-tx which, while it works on canon bodies, and it even gives you TTL with the yn685, doesn't even fire the flashes on M43 cameras, at least not on the olympus E-M10 and the Panasonic Gx85.
I've tried all of the above-mentioned yongnuo products on both of these cameras (E-M10 and Gx85), I'll add some amazon links to the products, I hope they can be helpful
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https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PGTOX26/ref=sxts_kp_bs_1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=8778bc68-27e7-403f-8460-de48b6e788fb&pd_rd_wg=xMKtJ&pf_rd_r=Q1W0BDPWVAHWKBY1N9CE&pf_rd_s=desktop-sx-top-slot&pf_rd_t=301&pd_rd_i=B00PGTOX26&pd_rd_w=XGvyX&pf_rd_i=yongnuo+yn560+iv&pd_rd_r=1c36158b-ccf3-4d7c-b5e6-2c40cbbb898a&ie=UTF8&qid=1543588353&sr=1
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https://www.amazon.com/YONGNUO-YN685-System-Wireless-Speedlite/dp/B0159PJL8C/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1543589021&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=yongnuo+yn685&psc=1
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https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KM1QZRY/ref=sxts_kp_lp_3?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=8778bc68-27e7-403f-8460-de48b6e788fb&pd_rd_wg=xMKtJ&pf_rd_r=Q1W0BDPWVAHWKBY1N9CE&pf_rd_s=desktop-sx-top-slot&pf_rd_t=301&pd_rd_i=B00KM1QZRY&pd_rd_w=XGvyX&pf_rd_i=yongnuo+yn560+iv&pd_rd_r=1c36158b-ccf3-4d7c-b5e6-2c40cbbb898a&ie=UTF8&qid=1543588353&sr=3
Get one of these:
http://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Wireless-Speedlite-Receiver-Universal/dp/B00A47U22U/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1458791907&sr=8-3&keywords=wireless+flash
I've been using it for a few weeks now and love it. Wifi has latency issues, but this is instant RF, way better.
At that budget, get some manual offname speedlights, and some cheap 28in umbrellas. They are far from the best things out there, but even the junk has its place, and that place is on shoestring budgets. As for backdrop, go to walmart, and pick up some queen or king size bedsheets of the walmart brand. Get one thats close to middle grey if possible. A middle grey sheet with a speed light and a color gel will become whatever color your gel is. I bought the strobist pack of gels, so my one sheet instantly becomes the whole rainbow. The reality is that $150 is a drop in the bucket of a proper studio, but there are plenty of budget ways of doing things. If you want even cheaper lighting, at the trade off of control, go to your local hardware store and pick up some of the $5 work lights that look like more like a bowl from your kitchen than a proper light. Continuous light can still be plenty useful but can be a little trickier to set up, and dealing with spill can be a pain. $2 foam core project boards make great dirt cheap reflectors and flags. You best bet at that budget is to think more DIY than "what can I buy". Try things and experiment. I have spent almost as much money at HomeDepot making my own lighting modifiers as I have on buying actual modifiers, and the results aren't really much different between my homebrew and the actual gear.
edit: Here's some links!
AmazonBasics speedlight $28 (x2, ~$60)
flash triggers, $15
two shoot-through, two silver reflectives, two gold reflectives, w/stands and carry bag $57
so that puts us at ~$135 right there
grey bedsheet $15
cheap gel kit $8
So add in tax and shipping, and there's your $150 budget plus a few bucks extra.
Now like I said you can do continuous light a little cheaper.
Here are some lights, modifiers, stands, and backdrops for $97
The key here is this is all "junk". That doesnt mean dont use it. I have a bunch of stuff from kits like these. But dont be surprised if an umbreallas silver lining separates off, or a softbox develops a tear in it. They just arnt made to the same standards as "pro" gear, but you can get just as good results with it if you take your time to learn what you are doing, and accept the downfalls of what you are buying and work around them. Work in your budget and develop your skills more. You will either pursue it further and buy better stuff later, or like me, still have the cheap off name junk because it works fine and you would rather spend money on glass than umbrellas.
Looks like a /r/wigglegram. There's cameras that are able to take multiple shots simultaneously like the Nishika N8000: they have multiple lenses and each one takes 1/2 of a 35mm frame (4 lenses, so it uses 2 frames worth of 35mm film per shot). I personally own a Nishika, but I've heard that the Nimslo models are superior regarding features.
After you get your photos developed, you put them into Photoshop or whatnot, layer them, and animate them back and forth and save them as a gif.
Canon's optical trigger system does flash on camera but I believe it is timed to not actually light the picture. If you want radios, Yongnuo 603 system is simple enough and can even be used as a remote shutter release for the camera when not using it for the flash. https://www.amazon.com/YONGNUO-RF-603C-II-C3-Wireless-Remote-Trigger/dp/B00JVEXRE2/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1466616933&sr=8-3&keywords=yongnuo+trigger
I bought 2 sets of these ( Canon version ) last week and they surprised the heck out of me. They're great. I also have several of the cheapest Yongnuo flashes and for very little money I have lots of easy lighting options.
How important is TTL when using a single OCF?
Basically, I'm learning to use my SB700 but don't like having the sync cable attached to my camera. I'm considering a few wireless options:
Yongnuo
or
Pocket Wizard
The key question here is that I'm still figuring things out and don't know how often I'll need/want to use my flash. If I go the cheaper route, I'm limited to only using the flash in manual mode (versus the industry standard pocket wizards). So, is flash in manual mode a disadvantage for a beginner and I should go with the pricier, but more versatile PWs? Or is TTL not crucial for beginner/intermediate work?
Thanks!
Went shooting last night. If you have a significant other, I cannot recommend wireless transceivers highly enough. I know my fiancee was happy that I was enjoying the show with her and not fiddling with the camera the whole time.
The only downside to not using bulb is that the finale will be blown out beyond repair.
Last night's Finale vs Typical Shot from the set
In Adobe Lightroom, I boosted the Exposure by .5 and contrast by 50. I pulled down the highlights and shadows by 30. I bumped the clarity by mid 30s. Vibrance and Saturation got a bump by lower/mid 20s.
No manipulation of the photos besides slight light editing mentioned about. The RAW files looks a bit like a faded photo of fireworks, as the white light washes out the color.
Also went through this decision process just this past weekend. Everybody goes for Godox, but me being the different guy that I am decided to go with Cactus. I bought two units (they are dual function; they serve as transmitter or receiver so you just buy these. This particular one is the HSS version. They have a cheaper $46 non HSS one) and will work with practically any flash including the Olympus FL-600R I already have. (Yes I know I can use the optical slave feature, but I hate optical slaving.) I had to go to Cactus's website to order the trigger cable, which will allow me to use this set as a remote trigger when mounted on a camera. (I have some notion of using it as a dual-camera setup one day, for action photography, to get two shots at the same time etc.)
Another route is Yongnuo. This is the dirt-cheap option and would get you well under your $200 budget. Yes it's for Nikon or Canon but it will trigger your flash by way of the universal pin, you would just have to be in 100% manual mode no TTL. You would then order Yongnuo speedlites (less than $80) which are again all manual but would work with the transmitter without an additional transceiver. (so you could pop a half dozen of these boogers at the same time if you wanted.) I have myself used this setup with my Olympus M10 as a test once, and it worked - again, I just had to dial my flash settings in manually.
Hi all!
I have a cannon 550d (T2i) and a 430 EX II.
I want to use the flash as an external, but it appears as if the camera can't handle that by itself, so i need some sort of trigger.
Can anyone help me out here?
Googling this led me to this product:
https://www.amazon.com/Yongnuo-YN-622C-Wireless-Transmitter-Transceiver/dp/B00I44F14O?th=1
but I want to make sure it's correct, and im also wondering if theres anything cheaper or if i should head in any other direction.
Thanks so much!
I'm a Canon 5D MK. III owner and I'm looking to get into flash photography. As some of you may already know, the Mk. III doesn't have an onboard flash so it can't wirelessly trigger off-mount speedlites. I'm looking for a solution to trigger my 430ex II
Here's what I'm hoping to accomplish: I'm going to a convention next weekend and I want to set up portable flashes mounted on light stands with umbrellas and use them to illuminate cosplayers and models.
I've looked into yongnuo, phototix odin, and of course: pocket wizards. Pocket wizards are my top choice at the moment like the PlusX but I'm a little confused about this product. This is the "transmitter', right? Do I need a "transceiver"? Or could the 430ex II operate with transmitter alone?
And my next question is: Do you guys have any recommendations? What do I need in order to wirelessly trigger my 430ex II while it's mounted on a light stand? Something that can still operate with ETTL?
Thank you and please do feel free to ask follow up questions for clarity.
You can go around 1/200 s by faking hypersync. I can go up to 1/8000 s on my nikon D810 with almost any speedlite and strobe. You need this for timing and this to trigger your flash. Put godox into your camera hotshoe and neewer trigger into godox hotshoe. connect neewer receiver to speedlite/strobe. Happy hypersync shooting ;)
Any standard hotshoe radio trigger should work.
It won't have anything like TTL, HSS or rear curtain capabilities, but they're cheap and cheerful, and work.
this sort of thing: https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Wireless-Speedlite-Receiver-Universal/dp/B00A47U22U
Not sure which camera was used for sure, but the 3D effect is done by using a stereoscopic camera like this.
It has four lenses so when you take a photo you get four slightly different angles that you can use to make a gif like what you showed.
Sure it's simple:
ISO: Light sensitivity (higher values = more light gathered but more noise created)
Exposure: Time that your camera keeps the shutter open gathering light (higher exposure times = more light but without a tracking system everything start to get trailing and this is bad for your pictures, as the stars will look like lines instead of points).
Lights: Picures of the actual object you want to capture (in my case Orion Nebula), depending on the ISO and the Exposure time you will get more or less detail. Your max exposure time depends on the focal length of your lenses (70-300 for you). In my case at 200mm my max exposure time before I get trailing is about 2-3 seconds, after that, the stars look like streaks. So more focal length = less exposure time. With a tracking system like a motorized mount you can increase your exposure time because your camera will follow Earth's rotation, reducing trailing. More light frames = more image quality.
Darks: Pictures that you take with the objective of your camera covered, so no light can get into your pictures. Just put on the cap of your camera. Usually you only need between 10/20 dark frames and they should be captured with the same settings as your light frames (ISO, Exposure, focal length) You usually take dark frames after light frames as dark frames also has to be taken at the same temperature.
Bias: Same as darks (10/20 frames) with lens covered and same ISO, but the exposure time has to be the lowest your camera can do (1/4000 in my case).
Then with an external software like DeepSkyStacker you add (stack) lights, darks and bias frames into a single picture, increasing details and reducing noise. Finally, with some postprocessing (could be done in DSS with very few options) in PhotoShop Lightroom you can reveal all the detail hidden in the final picture.
Also a tripod and one of these are recommended, if not needed, because you can control exposure time and the ammount of pictures taken without touching the camera, so you can get rid of vibration.
http://www.amazon.com/VILTROX-Intervalometer-Remote-Control-Shutter/dp/B00N3JQW7U?ie=UTF8&keywords=nikon%20shutter&qid=1459430039&ref_=sr_1_3&sr=8-3
Also don't give up if your first tries aren't good enough, just look at mines, you'll eventually get better and better!
http://imgur.com/a/Recht
Hope it helps you!
Yongnuo offers some pretty sweet speed lights for pretty cheap, then throw on a soft box diffuser, or pair with the wireless transmitter and a tripod and you have an excellent and versatile kit.
I'd recommend something like this:
Yongnuo 560
Softbox diffuser -- I have the $60 Honl version that I LOVE, especially with an OC-E3 off-camera shoe cord. A cheaper one will serve you well to learn on however.
Wireless transmitter -- I haven't used this one, others in this sub probably have. I'd go Canon myself, but it's about twice your budget. I also prefer my off shoe cord, both have their advantages.
A good bounce card or some sort of bounce dome is also great, but again not necessary for bouncing flash, just a useful modifier!
YONGNUO YN685 GN60 2.4G System ETTL HSS for $102, has a built-in radio trigger receiver, so you can then get a YN-622C-TX E-TTL Wireless Flash Controller for $44 and you're off-camera, you have E-TTL, and high speed sync.
Off camera will be especially useful in macro photography though many find they need a specific ring flash to avoid casting shadows from the lens.
I started with Yongnuo and half my kit still consists of it.
You go from triggers, to flash, to a trigger made to work seamlessly with their flash.
Highly Recommend espically for a first/beginner set up.
it looks like a quadroscopic film camera. i've seen other people use them for music vids / gifs etc. i know somebody with this one, it produces the exact effect: https://www.amazon.com/Nishika-N8000-Quadrascopic-Stereo-Lenticular/dp/B0014XRI5C
edit: for doing the same effect on moving video, i'd suggest 4 gopros rigged as closely together as possible.
My budget Macro setup:
Lens : Sigma 70-300 Also a pretty fair daily use lens at a cheap price point.
Adapter: Raynox 250 I love this litte guy. Takes some getting used to and you have to use an f-stop of 16 or higher to get any depth of field. That leads to needing a steady hand and lots of light.
A pair of flashes by Neewer. Recycle time is a bit slow, but I haven't broken it yet and you can pair it with a couple of wireless triggers to have tons of fun. Normally I just use one attached to the camera, but that's because I am lazy and always out of the weird battery the receiver uses.
I think you would be able to get pretty decent results with the 55-200 you currently have when you pair it with the Raynox. There's always other things like reversing lenses or adding extension tubes. I have no technical knowhow, so I stuck to the simplest plan possible and love chasing bugs and spiders.
Recently got a speedflash (SB-700) and I'm looking for a remote trigger system, as I have a D5300 and that doesn't have a commander mode. Budget is $100 ^(but being below it would be great.)
I know some people in this thread recommended the Yongnuo YN-622N or something from Godox (looking at the X1N Kit), but I noticed Altura has a kit with two receivers for $30. The biggest disadvantage I can tell is that I can't remotely adjust the flash power with both the Altura and Yongnuo kits.
Just looking for opinions or suggestions here/if I should spend the extra $50 on something like the Godox kit. I'm also looking at 2 receivers as I occasionally can get my hands on an SB-900.
TTL means through the lens. Basically, when you take a picture, it meters the shot and decides how much flash is needed. Kinda like an automatic in a car. This usually works pretty well for pictures. The other option is manual flash, where you adjust the power up and down until the exposure looks right.
this is a pretty good ttl flash, for the price
The thirty five should not be too tight unless maybe you are trying to take a picture of everyone at once. As for reach, yes, the 85mm will definitely help for that.
Taking a flash off your camera just requires a transmitter and a receiver. You can get very inexpensive ones that work pretty well for under $20. Or even just a flash cable. Then you put the flash on a clip or a stand and put it where you want it and then use as normal. (Be sure to get a transmitter that's made to work with your camera brand, since each flash mount works different)
Obviously taking any of this stuff up a wall will add danger and complexity, and a big diffuser will lower your light output and won't make much of a difference from any meaningful distance (more than 15 feet or so) but from here, you'll have to experiment and see what works for you!
That's the thing when using optical flash to trigger other flashes. You have to make sure the Alien Bee's see your on camera flash.
There are definitely cheaper alternatives to pocket wizards.
Here's the Cactus V5 I heard its really great for the price of $60 and the miss fire rate is pretty much on par with pocket wizards. I'm planning to pick this up soon.
If you need to go cheaper there is also the YN rf-603 Yongnuo is pretty much a made in china brand and its goes for $35. They're not too bad though.
Either way using a radio trigger is much more reliable than using the optical triggers.
> This isn't a general buying question but more of a general set up for speedlight question
I think it's still appropriate for the question thread.
> The [YongNuo YN-622N Wireless TTL Flash Triggers] (http://www.amazon.co.uk/YongNuo-YN-622N-Wireless-Flash-Trigger/dp/B00CSFCDKK/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1425345090&sr=8-5&keywords=Yongnuo+YN-622C-TX+TTL+nikon#customerReviews) come as a pair from Amazon. Could I use one on the camera as a controller and the other attached to my speedlight off camera as a slave/transceiver so they work together and I get off camera flash?
Yes. They are transceivers so one can act as transmitter and the other can work as receiver.
> If the triggers do work as flash controllers and slaves as a pair could I then add another controller [YONGNUO YN-622N-TX i-TTL Wireless Flash Controller] (http://www.amazon.co.uk/YONGNUO-YN-622N-TX-Wireless-Controller-Transceiver/dp/B00IN2DA40/ref=pd_bxgy_ph_text_y) and then turn the two YongNuo YN-622N Wireless TTL Flash Triggers I mentioned above into slaves/receivers?
Yes.
> I know the whole debate with TTL v Manual but I had one final question regarding the issue. If you are using a manual set up as people do here, how do you get a good shot? Would you experiment within a ball park that you understand with light and conditions or would you use a lightmeter?
I use the guide number and prior experience/intuition to estimate it, and trial and error if necessary to adjust from there. Chimping and using my camera's histogram helps for that last part in lieu of a flash meter.
> is it a TTL route v a lightmeter route when it comes to a lighting situation?
You're asking if those are the only two options? No.
Yongnuo makes decent remote flash triggers. I use these and they work okay. One goes on the camera and one goes on the flash. You can also buy more and group them to trigger multiple flashes.
YN-685 for $109 has a 622 receiver built in.
Heres the link if you are interested. Amazon
Hello /r/Photography!
I wonder if I can turn to some professionals and camera enthusiasts for some assistance..
I am primarily a retoucher, I have been retouching for over 5 years but I have always had a problem with getting the rights to show the before and after images so I decided to get a professional camera and get into photography myself.
if you are interested my portfolio can be found here: http://www.lulielens.com
Since I have been looking at images for a long time I already know what kind of look and style I would like to get, but I am completely clueless on the topic of camera gear and equipment (though I am looking to change this).
First here are some example images I like in terms of lighting:
Example 1
Example 2
Example 3
Example 4
Example 5
Here is my semi-final list. Could you equipment pros let me know if they will work properly together, or if I missed anything else you think I might need (to start with).
I have a Canon 5d mark ii with a 100mm/2.8f lens.
Thank you for taking the time to help!
Thanks for the response. Is this what you were referring to for firing the Alien Bees remotely? https://www.amazon.com/Yongnuo-Wireless-Trigger-Receiver-Shutter/dp/B0042TYNJ4
I'm looking for a fairly inexpensive flash trigger.
I do nightlife photography mainly, and usually put my flash in TTL. Now it would be really neat if I could take the flash of camera. I also want to use it for developing film negatives. I also might use it to trigger more flashes in the future, so it would be nice if I could control the power of individual flashes. But consider this optional.
Im currently looking at these options:
Yongnuo YN622C-TX + Yongnuo YN-622C
Cactus V6 X 2
What would be my best bet here? Any other alternatives?
Thanks in advance!
Can anyone help out with a few questions about Yongnuo flashes?
I'm looking to improve my flash setup, right now it's a Neewer 560 with a cheap wireless transmitter, but i'm looking to sell all that for a Yongnuo system.
I'm shooting with an X100T, and right now I'm looking at having a YN 560 TX on top of my camera with two YN 560 III's which will often be on stands away from the camera, a nice and easy little setup I assume.
However this caught my eye because of the focus assist beam, something I could definitely benefit from, is it safe to assume that I can just use that with the flashes and it will work since they already have built in receivers? Everyone seems to also have these hooked up to their flashes but im not sure why, anyone that can help? Thanks!
(also i should mention that I am not fussed about TTL)
I'm browsing, what do you think of these
http://www.amazon.com/Yongnuo-RF-603-Wireless-Remote-Trigger/dp/B00DCY29G4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1395793381&sr=8-2&keywords=yongnuo+radio+trigger
I have a pair of these that I use with my x100s and Yongnuo YN-560 III. Works perfectly.
Some with something like this
I can connect the pc-hh sync cable between my power pack and the receiver?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00JVEXRE2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_nk12xb6K032KR
In case you want to give them a shot, they're cheap and cost effective.
The advantage of a flash with a trigger is that you can take a couple with it, click the transmitter off, and take a couple without it...
I use a flash on a very low stand for exit photos, generally - but if something wrong - for example, if I can't get into the right position to put the couple between me and the speedlight for some reason, I want to be able to click it off remotely and still get photos! Of course you can handle that with a signal to your husband to switch off that light, so you'll be fine there!
That said, there are cheap flashes that are absolutely fine. You can buy a manual only flash for $30, or one with TTL for $50-60. In addition to the 622's, which are what I use most of the time, you can also get the super cheap 'dumb' transmitters that just pass the trigger signal for under $20. If you're really not going to use this stuff again, they'd be fine.
So something like
https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Wireless-Speedlite-Receiver-Universal/dp/B00A47U22U/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1524622121&sr=8-3&keywords=flash+trigger
And
https://www.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Electronic-Flash-Cameras-Canon/dp/B01I09WHLW/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1524622217&sr=8-16&keywords=yongnuo+flash
That flash will actually trigger as an optical slave to any flash... so you COULD skip the trigger and just use your diffuse fill flash to trigger it while your husband holds it.
Are those great products? Nope. Would I shoot paid weddings with them? Nope. But I think there's a 95% chance they'd do what you need them to do - all for under $50.00.
If you'll use off camera flashes again... invest a little more in the YN-622c's and/or the godox flashes. But if not, cheap out and you're probably okay.
Whatever you do, make sure to get out there 10 minutes before the exit and test your setup! Sparkler exits have everything a photographer hates - bright lights, darkness, fast movement, and a narrow window of opportunity!
Also, coach your couple! Tell them to come out, kiss, move to a certain spot, stop and waive, wait for your signal to move to the end of the line... kiss again. They tend to just RUN for it and it's easy to miss the whole thing, especially if you need two seconds to adjust a setting or switch on or off a flash trigger. That's more important than the gear! The sparklers really DO give enough light to get a shot with ambient only, or ambient and a little flash fill.
Oh, and if you are using front fill, gel it warm!
oh so that one wont work unfortunately, the trigger only works with godox gear.
If you just want a manual trigger just get this!
https://www.amazon.com/Neewer-Wireless-Speedlite-Receiver-Universal/dp/B00A47U22U/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=flash+trigger&qid=1567609226&s=gateway&sr=8-5
Does the Pocket wizard plus III work with any of the older receivers? Such as the plus x? Or maybe is there a cheaper option? I am mainly waint this for the receiver selection and grouping for controlling the lights.
Honestly, I think you’ll be unhappy going cheap in the beginning. You’ll probably want to upgrade later on, so you might want to save some extra money for better equipment. But if that’s not an option right now, I totally understand!
You really can’t go wrong with the Yongnuo flashes. Check those out to see which one fits your needs and is in your price range. These triggers are pretty decent. You’ll want a nice bracket for your umbrella and flash. These stands are also fairly decent.
I have the Neewer TT560 and ordered this trigger.
Neewer 16 Channel Wireless Remote FM Flash Speedlite Radio Trigger with 2.5mm PC Receiver for Canon 580EX II 580EX 550EX 540EZ 520EZ 430EX, Nikon SB900 SB800 SB600 SB28, Neewer TT860, TT850, TT560, YN560 III, YN560 II, YN560 I, Olympus, Pentax,Sigma, Sunpak, Vivitar 285HV and Other Flash Units with Universal Hot Shoe (1 Trigger&1 Receiver Set) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CO2WP0U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_yEduzbVBXH262
https://www.amazon.com/Nishika-N8000-Quadrascopic-Stereo-Lenticular/dp/B0014XRI5C
Hmm, might pull the pin on this speedlight with this transmitter.
If you can why don't you get a proper flashgun? Ideally, a Nikon model like the SB910 but it does not come cheap. Or you could go for a Yongnuo gun like this which has good specifications and is around $100. https://www.amazon.com/YONGNUO-YN685-System-Wireless-Speedlite/dp/B01EFUHRPQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1498675899&sr=8-1&keywords=yongnuo+nikon
The AmazonBasics flash is ~$30 and is just a rebranded Neewer model. It's full manual, but if you're shooting off camera with speedlights, with the A6000 that's the only game in town anyway. (If there's a TTL wireless transmitter/receiver out there for the Sony multi-interface shoe, I'm not sure).
For stands and umbrellas, when I started off Cowboy Studio stuff was inexpensive and relatively good quality to price. I'm not sure if it's still that way, but if you're looking to keep it cheap to start with, it's not a bad way to go. Same with their wireless transmitter, but Neewer has one for $16 on Amazon right now that comes with 2 receivers.
(The one thing to keep in mind is that the hotshoe on the black A6000 is painted/coated, so the transmitter may have issues grounding, but I haven't had one of these in hand for several years, and I'm having difficulty remembering if the transmitter required a ground spot in the first place, as it's just a simple "pop the flash" affair. You should be fine though.)
So for a starter kit to learn off camera stuff, I'd say go with 2 of the AmazonBasics Flashes
This umbrella/stand kit
And the above mentioned trigger set. That's around $130 and two lights should be plenty to get you started. Maybe even consider getting some softboxes while you're at it.
Since you're just getting started with it, I wouldn't dump too much money into it for now. Those two flashes with umbrellas/soft boxes will be plenty to just get the basics down, learn the different lighting styles, and decide if shooting with flash is where you want to go.
From there, shelling out for some PocketWizards, Profoto strobes, and all the high end kit is up to you!
Hi guys and gals. I have a lighting gear question I hope you can answer me.
I am considering the following products (links added) in order to start shooting off camera flash in a proper manner:
In addition to those three I also have a Canon 6D, 430EXII flash, some gels, and I have been studying multiple lighting courses.
Is there anything else, particularly in the stand + flash + softbox set up that needs to be purchased?
Hey there, this weekend I'm going to be taking pictures and my brother-in-law and his fiancee's wedding shower. They didn't ask me to do this but they are ok with me doing it. Really, I'm not interested in the shower but I have to go so I thought it would be a good time to use my new gear (its all new to me basically, just getting in to photography). And if I'm going to take pics, I want them to turn out at least decent. The last thing I want is to take pics and then not be able to share them because they came out terrible.
Anyways, I was wondering if somebody could give me some ideas on how I could utilize my equipment, especially my flashes (never used those before). The room is a "community" room in an apartment building. Its rectangle-shaped room with entrance doors on opposite corners. I think the lighting are chandelier type things with CFL bulbs, I don't remember right off hand.
Nikon D7200 (probably getting a Sigma 17-50mm f/2.8 tomorrow, I already have a Nikon 50mm f/1.8)
These stands: https://www.amazon.com/Fovitec-Photography-Reflectors-Modifiers-Collapsible/dp/B00HNZJLG4/
Two of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B075F3G6J3/
Two of these: https://www.amazon.com/YONGNUO-YN685-System-Wireless-Speedlite/dp/B01EFUHRPQ/
One of these: https://www.amazon.com/YN622N-TX-Wireless-Controller-Transmitter-Function/dp/B00NJGMICU/
Any help would be super appreciated!!!
You can get hotshoe flashes off of the camera by using wireless triggers such as these. You would just put one of the units in the camera's hotshoe and connect the other one to the flash. You can add more receivers to trigger multiple flashes.
I always think that a tripod is a good thing to have. When I didn't have one I never thought I needed one, but once I finally got one I found that I wanted to use it all the time. You do not need to get an expensive one, I have 3 and I have gotten them all from thrift stores and yard sales.
If you want something which will help you take different kinds of photos I would recommend an off camera flash. These are a little more on the expensive side, but there are great options out there that do not include the $500+ Canon version. I have two Yognuo's and they are fantastic. These wireless flash triggers are an awesome addition to the flash.
These are super handy for a remote flash trigger
They also function as a a remote shutter. I have 4 of them now and use them quite a bit.
I currently have a Polaroid PL-144AZ flash and am looking at trying to do some stuff that involves the flash not being attached to the shoe mount. I'm wondering if anyone has recommendations for remote triggers that I can mount on a D90 that will work with that flash.
I've looked at ones like this, but not having ever worked with things like this, I was hoping someone with more knowledge might be able to confirm this is a good buy, or possibly point me in the right direction.
Thanks!
You'd have to do the research to find what's compatible with your camera, but what you're looking for is in the realm of these, which I've been using for the past few years: https://www.amazon.com/YONGNUO-RF-603C-II-C3-Wireless-Remote-Trigger/dp/B00JVEXRE2
So perhaps something like this? https://www.amazon.com/Trigger-Altura-Photo-Wireless-Shutter/dp/B00CMF9HFA/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=wireless+flash+trigger+canon+t3i&qid=1574649407&s=electronics&sr=1-5
Hope this was helpful, good luck!
Would these continue to allow TTL to work?
Nishika N8000 is a popular camera for this effect
Hi there, so I'm a flash newbie, but I want to buy a yongnuo flash to work with my Canon 5d classic. I also want to be able to attach the yongnuo to a tripod and fire that with a wireless trigger on my 5d in certain settings. I'm wondering what flash equipment I would need for this to work. I'm considering this, but I'm not sure it would work? Would I need something like this for it to fire the flash wirelessly? Is it simple enough to buy the yongnuo YN560-TX, attach that to my 5d's hot shoe, dial in the settings, attach the yongnuo YN560III to a tripod or wherever, then press the shutter button on my camera to activate the flash? Thanks for the help!
I've not used it, but spent a good bit of time researching it recently; both Amazon and B&H reviews on it are solid. Note you will need a receiver as well for it to function over radio (unless your flashs come with one built in).
From what I've heard, Pocket Wizard is nice if you are a studio professional and need all the fancy functions to control your half-dozen different lights, but for most everyone else Yongnuo is the better option.
I actually decided against getting radio TTL when I learned that my Nikon D600 (and most modern DSLRs) has built-in infrared TTL controls using it's pop-up flash. I just ordered an infrared panel to block out the visible light from the pop-up flash so I can just control the external flash when shooting. (the linked panel is designed for Nikon, but it should fit over a canon popup flash just as well)
Note, Infrared TTL only works if your external flash supports optical wireless slave TTL (but most half-decent flashes do, just look for a red panel on the front of the flash). Other limitations of infrared TTL is, since it needs to be in visual range of your camera's light, it has a shorter functioning range; but odds are the range will be more than enough for things you will be doing.
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TL;DR: Yongnuo seems good,- it also might need a receiver to work; For cheaper cost try infrared TTL with a $11 infrared panel for your pop-up flash.
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^^Edit: ^^some ^^flashes ^^apparently ^^also ^^have ^^built ^^in ^^radio ^^TTL ^^receivers, ^^so ^^if ^^your ^^flash ^^has ^^one ^^of ^^those ^^you ^^might ^^not ^^need ^^a ^^Yongnuo ^^receiver ^^with ^^your ^^Yongnuo ^^controller.
This is the camera you want: https://www.amazon.com/Nishika-N8000-Quadrascopic-Stereo-Lenticular/dp/B0014XRI5C
I am considering buying a light meter (specifically this one). Would I need to purchase a sync cable to connect my flash and light meter? If so would a cable like this work with this trigger system?
Off camera flash question - slow cycle time
shooting 5dmkiii with a 430exii flash will fire each and every time i pull the trigger
recently bought a cheap (maybe thats the problem) neewer remote flash trigger kit
I can get the flash to fire remotly using this neewer trigger kit, but the cycle time between flashes is around 1 minute making it pretty useless
Ideas?
Remote Trigger:
http://www.amazon.com/Wireless-Speedlite-Receiver-Neewer-Universal/dp/B00CO2WP0U/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top
I didn't realize these existed. http://www.amazon.com/Nishika-N8000-Quadrascopic-Stereo-Lenticular/dp/B0014XRI5C
Good info. I've been using the shoestring budget transmitters but they aren't particularly consistent and I can only get them to reliably sync at 1/160 or less. If I shoot 5 shots at 1/200 I get the black bar at 5 different locations across the frame.
Oh sorry, they are called X1. X1C for Canon, X1S for Sony, X1N for Nikon
Sorry for the miscommunication. I'm using an altura flash with a Yongnuo trigger set. The really weird part is that the altura flash works just fine in ettl mode on the camera. It's just not working correctly when put on the yongnuo flash trigger.
I'm trying to understand some things about speedlights and triggers.
What does it mean, for example, that the YN560IV has build it transmitter? I read that it can control up to 3 other flashes? Or it can just connect to a wireless trigger, like the YN560-TX, without the need of a receiver?
What are the difference in use between the trigger mentioned above and something like this:
https://www.amazon.es/gp/aw/d/B00A47U22U/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?__mk_es_ES=ÅMÅZÕÑ&qid=1522265774&sr=8-3&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=Flash+trigger&dpPl=1&dpID=51FT9BEQkDL&ref=plSrch
Can those trigger old manual speedlights?
HSS. What uses does it have? Or rather, in what situations could you need faster than 1/200 shutter when using a speedlight?
What is a slave? A flash that fires only when another does so? Aside from triggering it optically by firing another flash (is there a delay to this?), are there other options that use the same idea? If I set 2,3, or 5 speedlights, I'd have one that I receives the signal directly from camera and the rest will be slaves? Or not?
If you do want wireless so you can shoot further than arm's length, I have been using these. They weigh virtually nothing and work really well (provided you are ok with setting everything from the flash and not the transmitter
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A47U22U/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Artificial lighting is the best and easiest way to make great, professional-looking portraits.
Are you sure you can't afford a speedlite ? You don't need an expensive name-brand one. A basic speedlite is $35. Get two of those, a basic radio control, some flash brackets, one more basic umbrella and you have yourself a portrait lighting kit for $100.
The only limitations will be that this kit won't take heavy use, and the flash won't do TTL (you have to set the power manually, which you want to do for off-camera flash anyway).
Finally, read strobist tutorial and you are now good to go and make great portraits.
Did you know Amazon will donate a portion of every purchase if you shop by going to smile.amazon.com instead? Over $50,000,000 has been raised for charity - all you need to do is change the URL!
Here are your smile-ified links:
https://smile.amazon.com/Neewer-centimeters-Octagonal-Speedlight-Photography/dp/B00PIM3I6I
https://smile.amazon.com/Fotodiox-Premium-Shoot-Through-Translucent-Umbrella
https://smile.amazon.com/Neewer-Professional-Universal-Speedlite-Umbrella/dp/B00JJJR7PY
https://smile.amazon.com/Neewer-centimeters-Portrait-Product-Photography/dp/B00L4YR0BS
https://smile.amazon.com/AmazonBasics-Electronic-Flash-DSLR-Cameras/dp/B01I09WHLW
https://smile.amazon.com/Neewer-Wireless-Speedlite-Receiver-Universal/dp/B00A47U22U/
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^^i'm ^^a ^^friendly bot