Best mechanical seals according to redditors

We found 3 Reddit comments discussing the best mechanical seals. We ranked the 3 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Top Reddit comments about Mechanical Seals:

u/fratdaddyZC · 7 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

While I’m waiting on my Lumina to come in, I figure I’d do a cheaper, experimental tactile build.

Keyboard: Duck Sidewinder Gray

  • Duck Sidewinder

    Stabs: GMK Screw in Stabalizers w/ Walker Mod (no adhesive sticker)

  • GMK Screw in Stabalizers

  • Permatex Dielectric Grease

  • Orings

    Switches: Holy Razers

  • Greetech SMD RGB bottoms

  • Outemu ICE V2 tops

  • Halo True stems

  • Krytox 205 GPL 0

    Butyl Rubber

  • Non Adhesive for the case

  • Adhesive for the spacebar

    Keycaps:

  • Blue Grey XDA Keycap Set

    I needed something to scratch my itch while I wait for my Lumina, so I decided to pick up the Duck Sidewinder and screw around with some mods. I have a bunch of halo’s and Outemu Ice V2’s lying around, so I decided to pick up some Greetech switches to mess around with. After lubing them up with Krytox 205, I had a good set of holy razers, and I’m pretty happy with them.

    I’ve used butyl rubber to deaden the sound in my keyboards before, but this is the first time using it on the spacebar. I actually like the added weight in the spacebar, and I had no idea if I would or not.

    As far as the caps go… Truth be told, I’m not much of a fan, but I was hoping the dark blue would bring out the blue tones in the case, and I think it did pretty well. I’ll keep them on for bit and see if they grow on me. It's just hard to find a good set of caps that are colemak compatible. Currently I'm waiting on these.

    I’m pretty excited to have this as my daily driver for awhile :)
u/llammmmma · 4 pointsr/Edinburgh

there's lots of different types of gaffer tape. Once it's on for a few weeks it will leave a sticky residue. eventually it will dry out and leave a hard chalky powder that's glued on.

same with masking tape.

I've see plastic bags jammed in the gaps as a quick fix.

Really you need to use the proper draught excluder tapes to do it properly

edit: this stuff - pinned to the window with 15-20mm brass pins

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Stormguard-05SR180005MW-Self-Adeshive-Draught-Excluder/dp/B00B2L6PIM

and

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Profile-WHITE-Rubber-Draught-Excluder/dp/B009XDZBRC/

I put the V shaped stuff in the vertical gaps between the window and the frame - and I used a combination of the P shaped profile and the V shaped non-stick tape between the panes. laid horizontally . The P profile keeps the V profile wide to fill the gap between the sash windows.

u/_-Arthur-_Vaper · 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette

If you've already taken it apart (DJLSB has a breakdown in his review if not), why not do so again, and liberally clean all of the insides (including all visible solder joints and all circuit board parts as well as the fire button) with 90% isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol) and a q-tip. The ISO is a good solvent and will remove all the ejuice, and also evaporates completely within a few minutes, and is not electrically conductive.

Then after letting it dry out for a few mins, you can reassemble and see if it works.

After that if it still works ok without autofiring, you might want to get some 7mm x 1mm o-rings, and insert one into and round the 510 pin at the top where you screw on your atty, and see if this helps to prevent the leaking.

You can find the o-rings here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MTO0US6/