Top products from r/MechanicalKeyboards

We found 1,487 product mentions on r/MechanicalKeyboards. We ranked the 4,380 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Top comments that mention products on r/MechanicalKeyboards:

u/D1STURBED36 · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Advice for first time MK buyer? i still have a few weeks before i fully decide/get the funds but so far im considering the ducky shine 5, coolermaster masterkeys pro l or a k series corsair..

k-series - quality issues, wary of "gaming" brands, and the keyboard i want that fulfills everything i want is ehh and over budget (k95 - nearly £200, budget is not strictly set but its about £120-150) while the other, lower cost k-series still seem to have quality issues and are missing various features (media/macro keys, etc). - and when compared to the below 2 keyboards (or at least the masterkeys) seems pretty inferior when quality is taken into account.

ducky shine 5 - seems really, really solid and is reasonably priced. but no software for rgb customization is kinda disappointing. although it does seem to have better LED's then others.

masterkeys pro l - seems similar to ducky in regards to quality, but has software. just in general seems really solid and pretty much ticks all my boxes.

features id like:

macro keys - not a huge dealbreaker, but i would like to have them. that being said, i have 12 atm (logitech g110) that are pretty much never used - but id like to use them. software for customizing keys never used as replacement for dedicated macros would also be acceptable

media keys - again, never used and a minor bonus and im not to fussed.

quality - id like to have the keyboard for a fair few years.

Full sized - im not completely against the idea of getting a smaller size, but it seems unnecessary for me.. full sized has been perfectly fine for me.

Customizability - for keycaps, etc.. I realize that the k-series use a non standard bottom row which makes replacing/getting new switches difficult..? atm this is a complete non factor and i have 0 plans to change anything.. but i guess standard and not some weird hard to find stuff would be good for future.

RGB - it seemed silly to me yesterday for this to be such an important thing but after seeing a razer chroma something in person.. I love it.

UK layout

If theres any other keyboards that i should consider looking at thats roughly my budget and fits the criteria, id really appreciate it - along with advice about the 3 mentioned boards - ATM im leaning towards the masterkeys.

Bonus question - i realize its a pretty personal thing, but it seems cherry MX reds are what id like the most..? I dont like the idea of blues potentially interfering with double tapping, but i have pretty much no experience. Does something like this really help in finding your preferred switch if its only 1 key? i tried typing on razor chroma (something) which i believe has razor greens and found it pretty lovely - at least compared to what i have now.

u/simon5858 · 6 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Great idea to have a hobby with your son!

  1. Coolermaster masterkeys Pro S RGB would probably be a good candidate for a first entry to the hobby. It is a pretty good quality board, and it has a standard layout, which means you can easily swap out keycaps without having to worry about special keysizes. It also has RGB, which i'm certain your son will find fun to play with as well. I just included a link to Amazon, but if you search a bit more i'm sure you could find a better deal.

  2. As for keycaps you have a lot of choices in every pricerange. If you are looking for something specific, i suggest /r/mechmarket. Almost always someone is willing to sell you what you are looking for, for a reasonable price.

    Alternatively you could look at something like WASDkeyboards. They have a service, where you can make your own keyset, and have them make it. The quality is not the best, but i'm sure your son would appreciate being able to create something, and see his creation on his own keyboard.

    As for higher end options, i'm not sure how relevant they are for you, but you can look into GMK and Signature Plastics keycaps, which are available through a ton of websites like,, and the list goes on. If you want i can give you a ton of more links in a PM.

  3. Building a keyboard, is a good way to go deeper into the hobby, and i'm sure it would be a fun project. I suggest you take a good look at winkeyless' website. It's a store that sells keyboards in kit form, and they have pretty nice stuff. It's more expensive than a prebuilt like the Coolermaster, but that is just how it goes in this hobby.

    As for building the board, that is a whole topic in it self, and i suggest you start with the first point in your post, and move on from there. Learning about everything is part of the experience IMO.

    Hope the hobby brings you a ton of fun for you and your son. Also feel free to ask any question. There's a ton of people who would be happy to help. Including myself!
u/yangdaddy · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

The 1391401 is considered the quintessential Model M. It is usually what people are thinking of when they think of Model Ms. Generally, the earlier 1986 - 1988 Model Ms are the more highly desirable ones as they have thicker backplates and a more solid construction. (btw the 1391401 began production in early 1987) A few of my most prized Ms are from this 1986 era, especially the ones that have a barcode label on the back.

They then went through a few stages of cost cutting, so the case and the backplate are a little thinner as the years go on but the buckling spring switch mechanics were relatively unchanged. The keyboards are still quite nice, and there are quite a few from the later years that I really like a lot.

In 1993, some employees bought the keyboard division of IBM and renamed themselves Lexmark. The backplates and case become thinner still. Although they definitely feel a little "lighter," they are still nice keyboards and really fun to type on. That being said, it is apparent as you become familiar with them, that the molds that were used to stamp the parts out started getting rougher and less precise, and the keycap legends are not quite as sharp and bold.

One of the things I love most about Ms, is that they are tremendously durable and easy to clean up and make look new or near new. Just takes a 5.5mm (or 7/32) nut driver with thin walls to remove the case (I bought this one and it has served me nicely - Lots of guides on cleaning up Ms to be found on the web.

As a first M, I think a 1391401 is a perfect one to look for. There are a lot of Ms on ebay, however a lot of sellers seem to think theirs are worth hundreds of dollars and most aren't. There were millions of these keyboards sold, so most standard models are not rare at all. With some patience and persistent browsing, you can find a nice one for a very modest amount of $. I have found more than a few (often quite dirty) from between $30 - $50, which I think is a good range to aim for - depending on age, condition etc. You probably want to avoid a Terminal M as your first, as it will take a bit more work/money to get working with a modern computer.

Also, you will likely save money by finding one that has a SDL - PS2 cable, as buying one on its own will likely cost a few more dollars. When you do, if you don't have a PS2 connection on your pc, you will need an active adapter. The Sanoxy blue cube is perfect -

It's cheap and works well and is endorsed by clickykeyboards, the foremost restorer and expert on Model Ms. He has written my favorite buyers guide on them:

u/CrustyButtAss · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

I have one. I like it. But I only like it because of the price tag; I make myself like it because of how it costs.

I was one of the people that sped down to fry's electronics on launch day and picked myself a cherry mx red version. I had never used mx red's before, but lately I have been getting into the CS:GO competitive scene and thought I could be in the top 5% if I bought reds. I have no idea why I would think this, but I did.

Now, before I get into the pro's and cons, let me preface this: I've bought 4 mechanical keyboards in the last year: so I'm not a noob with keyboards. I currently own a Quickfire TK, Blackwidow Ultimate 2013, Logitech G710+, and of course, the K70 RGB.
The OG keyboard (and probably my favorite to this day, is the Quickfire TK). It was small, light, never slipped, and always had a very bright backlight (this is important for later). The Blackwidow, also had a gorgeous backlight and this keyboard comes in a close second. Then the last 2 keyboard purchases I've made have since gone down-hill. I figured out I can't live without blue keys. Not reds, not browns, not blacks, hell, not even fucking turquoise.

Now this is probably a personal issue, but I can't live if I am not typing/gaming on blues. While writing this, I HAVE to look down while typing, and it is only on this keyboard. It just feels... weird. Something about blues on my fingers make my "keystrokes" more fluid. So enough with my personal problems with the keyboard, let's get on to the issues everyone has with the keyboard.


  • The wristrest. I bought this keyboard almost primarily for that. And I can say, that isnt really is a big deal, and I probably won't buy another keyboard without one.
  • The software; I'm talking about features here. The UI is something different and I'll touch on that later. It really is feature-packed. With the API out there, and the helpful and supportive community, you an literally do anything. Yes, anything.
  • Media controls. I never knew how much I liked/needed them. They are very useful for muting your mic/speakers for when your family comes in and you are in a skype call with your friends. (I mapped mine to mute my mic, not a native feature obviously).

  • I like the brushed aluminum look, it is quite nice.


  • The software; talking about the UI. It is atrocious, but I'm willing to ignore it sense after using it for awhile, it starts to make sense and isn't that terrible.

  • The brightness. I find nobody touches on this, but I guarantee you'll notice it. It seems the LED's are dimmed by 50-75% on purpose. And no, I'm not exaggerating. Now I believe this is because the LED's are mounted within the switch to reduce ESD. However, I would almost want to risk ESD (I've never had a LED be a victim of ESD before), than to have them be less bright. Go pick one up, try it, and you'll automatically notice it on all the colors.

  • No side USB ports / audio ports. Not a huge deal, but I enjoyed them when I was using my black widow.

  • The corsair gaming logo doesn't really bother me, but it might bother you, so, I guess that's a con.

  • The software..again, likes to freeze (pic below). Occasionally, the software won't crash, but the lights will just freeze. Whenever I press a key, it rainbows only that key, and as I'm typing this, a few of my keys are stuck mid-rainbow.

  • I like the brushed aluminum for it's looks, but I don't like how I have to clean it every week or two. I do eat alot at my desk, but I always find hairs, food, and a little bit of coffee stains there. Nothing the keyboard can do about it, and not really a con, but just keep in mind that you will have to clean it alot.


    The keyboard is feature packed and has potential, although it just isn't there yet. I am very excited for a (hopefully) revision 2.0 of this. Essential, if Corsair came out with a razer blackwidow which had a wrist wrest and slightly tweaked the software, I would buy it. The keyboard currently is $133 on amazon for Cherry Blues. At this price, I would say it's worth it to atleast tinker around with. It is a nice keyboard, and I think I will continue using it, however, once again, it needs work.

    If you can pick it up for $133 or less, and you aren't going to spend your money on anything better, atleast give it a try; Maybe you'll like it.

    I hope you found this informative and useful :D

u/RE1Do_ · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

You gotta follow your heart! I was pretty much set on the CM Storm Quickfire Rapid. I was looking for a simple aesthetic, non-back lit, tenkeyless layout with switches that were highly rated for a mix of gaming and typing. I wanted tactile feedback but non-clicky and landed on the Cherry MX Browns. This is my first MK so I also wanted to stick to a budget of under $125 CAD all-in. I used this article online as a handy guide to help me narrow down what I liked and disliked about the different models.

I literally had my mouse on the "Buy now" button for the QFR for $118+tax on Amazon when I decided to do one last eBay check for Filcos MJ2 TLK, which was the board I really wanted but was generally out of my price range. I found my keeb for $114+tax and pounced on it (that's the Cherry MX Blue version. I got the Brown which is now sold out). Super happy with a great deal and super happy with this board!

That said, the Masterkeys looks great to me too! It was on my list. My advice is to shop around as much as possible. You never know where or when you'll find the best deal on it. Good luck!

u/mrselkies · 4 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

>Switches, where can I try them? is there anything like blues that aren't loud?

You can try out switches by buying a switch tester like this one. I'd say the closest thing to feeling like blues without the click would be cherry MX clears.

> are reds hard to type on?

I wouldn't say they're hard to type on, but that's a bit subjective. Reds are Cherry's lightest switch offering, so someone who likes very heavy switches might find it difficult to type on them, but for someone who's just getting into this stuff or doesn't have a particular preference there isn't anything about Reds that make them hard to type on. They're linear switches, meaning they don't have a click or bump for the actuation, they're just straight force all the way down to bottom-out.

>What is your personal favorite?

Right now my personal favorite is linear switches, with a force somewhere in between reds and blacks. I'm currently using cherry MX black switches and I have some springs that I'm going to modify them with to make them just a bit lighter.

>TKL or full size? seriously have no idea what to do here

This is all about how big you want your keyboard to be. Personally I started out with a full size but with each keyboard I got from there, I went smaller and smaller as I found that there are a lot of keys on a keyboard that I just don't use. I went with TKL and loved it, then tried out some of the smaller sizes like 60%, 65%, and 75%. I decided I liked the 60% but needed my arrow keys so I settled on 65% with my Clueboard.

>RGB is it worth it?

If you're into backlighting RGB is great. There are a few keyboards that are great, solid keyboards that get recommended a lot here that have RGB. Check out the CoolerMaster Masterkeys Pro S and L (S is TKL and L is fullsize) and the Ducky Shine 5.

>macro keys/volume controls are they worth it?

This is something that's pretty much non existent in the higher quality enthusiast-grade boards. You can get volume controls through function keys and such but dedicated volume controls are rare (pretty much just the Das Keyboard 4 that I can think of) and macro keys are very much nowhere except for cheap, badly built "gamer" boards by Razer, Corsair, etc. You'll find that the mk community is all about less is more as far as keyboard sizes go, so adding more keys just to do undefined "macros" with is the opposite of what the community's going for. Instead, it's all about reducing the size of the keyboard and adding more functions to existing keys for more efficiency. For example, a lot of people forego dedicated arrow keys and instead have arrow keys on Function+WASD. Personally I like my arrow keys but that's the idea. The highly sought out keyboards in the community are mostly fully programmable, so basically every key becomes a "macro key" at that point.

u/FallenTheDoge · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Hello again !

I posted here yesterday being doubtful about what I should look for and found a great help !

Now I have some final question before buying a keyboard.

So I was looking for Backlights, key floating, 60% keyboard with probably cherry mx red.

Was first looking for an ISO layout since I was used to it but seems like they're harder to find and I might want to change since I've seen only positive comments about switching from ISO to ANSI.

I ordered a switch tester to be sure the cherry mx red will be the best for me aswell.


Now my question is: which one ?

Model | Price | pro or cons
KBP Paradise V60Plus | less than 100 $ | no RGB but only blue/red backlights
Magicforce | 60 $ or more | Kailh switches, are they any good?
KBC Pok3r 3 | over 143 € without shipping | only found one with cherry mx brown :/

I feel like the KBP is the one I'll get since I'm sure I won't have too much shipping cost, since price seems to be lowered already, and even if it doesn't have floating keys It'll be perfectly fine, however have to say I was hyped by the Pok3r but I'm really hesitating with the KBP and I can't find the Pok3r in europe, with RGB and cherry mx red.

I'm looking for any advice, tip, personal opinion and reviews. Thanks in advance !


Also ! Will using an ANSI keyboard on a laptop with an ISO layout keyboard will cause me any problem excepted the fact I might have to swap for FR(azerty) to EN(qwerty) layout pretty often and get used to ISO+qwerty?

Also, since I was looking for a custom key cap, I was first looking for buying one from WASD but seems like I shouldn't, tried to look at Max keyboard but they don't have as much choice, any other recommandation?

u/aspenc4 · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

There's a lot out there, and it can be tough figuring out where to begin even with the wiki. In my opinion, figuring out your needs and budget are the two most important things you can do when you're first jumping in.

  • Needs -

    Ask yourself what you'll mainly be using your board for; are you a gamer that spends most of their time playing FPS, or do mainly use your board for work / school related activities? A little bit of both? Does your board need to be pack and go, or will it mainly be stationary at a pc? Do you want to build yourself or do you want a prebuilt that just works? Once you have a few basic requirements in mind, you can use those as a guideline to start to piecing together what you need for your situation. For example, I game a tiny bit but not enough to justify building a board around it. I do however spend quite a bit of time on my board for work and I travel quite often, so I wanted something portable that was ideal for hours of typing, and it had to have a navigation cluster. From there, I decided on a 65% board with tactile switches.

  • Budget -

    It's easy to go down the rabbit hole and spend elevendy billion dollars on a custom board with all the bells and whistles, then come to find out out you don't like the layout, switch type, cap profile etc. There are MANY different price points out there; I can almost assure you that you can find something up your alley without breaking the bank. My first board that I mentioned above was a [Magic Force 68] ( that I got on sale for $30, and I still love that little thing. Since then I've built 3 custom boards and a macro pad, and I've got a few more builds in the works too, but I did it all bit by bit.

    After you figure out what your needs are and your budget, i suggest checking out switch types and figuring out what you think you'll like. If you're unsure, you can always grab a [switch tester] ( to help you narrow it down. and if you go the DIY route, [spacecat design] ( has a lot of great tools to get you started.

    I hope you find this helpful; this is really only scratching the surface. Don't be intimidated with all of the info; the more you hang around (kudos to you for jumping in after a week, I lurked for months before I asked any questions) the more you'll learn. It all starts to come together over time, so stick with it and don't be afraid to ask questions. Someone will point you in the right direction more often than not.

    If for some reason you do find yourself hanging though, feel free to message me and I'll be glad to help you out. :)
u/notaneggspert · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I'm trying to find a list of all 82/84 key-keyboards on the market that I can actually buy new. I know there's a longer list of discontinued stuff.

As of now I know of the: 84 Keycool, Cherry G-84
, KBT RACE II, Drevo 84, Keycool hero 84, Noppoo Choc mini 84.

Looking for an 84 key with media buttons and a function key on the bottom row. I'd like MX cherry stems so I can change out the caps easily but know other caps are available. If I could program the media button locations and order keys to match. That'd be awesome.

I'm pretty happy with the OUTEMU brown switches on my 68 key magicforce so I'll probably go with brown switches.

If anyone wants to recommend me an 84 key board with media keys and some function keys like an calculator button and board number pad that'd be awesome I'm all ears. The Keycool Hero I already linked looks like a winner

u/kaiden60 · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I'm looking for my second mechanical (First was a Razer Blackwidow, broke though) , I've been without one for almost half a year now, and I think it's about time haha.

I think brown switches are what I'm going with, it's a really tough decision though with reds, and even blacks/clears to consider, i'm really torn, but brown is the most similar to blues, so it'd be a smooth transition. I'd love it if I could find a keyboard that's sold with blank keycaps/characters printed on front, but it's not a priority since i could always just buy the key caps

I'd like it to be compact, or 60% + F keys, And I'd like one without backlights, maybe one like this ?
(Would there be anywhere better to buy keyboards in canada)

Also, I love the looks of 60% keyboards like poker, but losing the ~ key and F keys kinda hurts as I use those in some games, so if there's anything similar it would be awesome.

Also, my dad wants a keyboard with a backlight, so when it's dark he can clearly see the keys as he looks down a lot when he types, blue keys would probably be the best for him, anything other than that he won't care about, so anything cheap will satisfy him

u/Garfield131415 · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

My budget is around 60 euros. I don't mind how big it is. TKL is fine, even 65% or 60% is fine. Don't really want/need full size.
I've taken a look at a lot of keyboards. It's hard to fine good ones, but this is what i've found. I must note 3 things: 1. My parents are involved in the decision. 2. I like all switches exept MX reds. 3. I live in europe but can order in USA (my father works in the US, he can bring it home)

This list is ordered in most intersted to least interested.

  1. Anne Pro 60% keyboard with RGB lights and Gateron switches 65 euros shipped to Belgium. Would go for Gateron Blue switches. Only reason I haven't ordered is, is because my parents don't really want to order from Banggood (Chines website)
  2. Magicforce 68 30-60 euros. Good deal, but I don't like the white keyboad, and the black keyboards are very rare.
  3. Drevo Gramr 84-keyboard 40 euros, backlight. Seems like a good deal.
  4. Ajazz RGB keyboard Looks like a good deal for 56 euros. RGB lights, apparantly very nice (the lights)
  5. Drevo Calibur RGB For 50 USD, looks alright
  6. E-element keyboard again, a cheap RGB keyboard. Find it weird that RGB is an option at my price point.
    These are some I think are nice.
    I also had my eye on a 40 USD reddragon keyboard.

    So, I know everyone's probably gonna be like: Go for the Anne Pro. And trust me, I would want to. But my parents don't like ordering from unknown websites, defintly as it ships for China.
    Any other suggestions?
u/MrWabbit- · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I may be going crazy with research, but I've been lurking the past 2-3 weeks, trying to find the perfect keeb. I think I've narrowed it down to a few, but I'll list what I have, what I'm looking at, and what I'm looking for

Currently using a Razer Blackwidow Chroma, they have their razer green switches which are basically Cherry MX Blue clones. I just don't like the CLICK much anymore.

I game often and type occasionally, so a middle ground switch is what I was looking for, so I thought Cherry MX Brown would be best. However it seems like everyone now hates them? I bought a 9 switch tester with Brown and compared them to clear. I can definitely see the tactile difference, but I like the lighter feel to the browns. Just wondering if gaterons are the better brown, even though I see they have a bit of a wobbly feel, and rattling to them.

Here's what I was aiming for and the few I came up with.

u/CreativeCamp · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

In general most mechanicals use switches (the little thing under the keycaps that activates the button) from big switch makers. Cherry is the most popular one and if you get a keyboard with cherry MX switches you will know that at least those will have a good build to them.

This is a board with Brown Cherry Switches. They have a bit of a tactile bump tot them when pressed and are overall very pleasant to type on.

Linear Red Cherry switches on this board. Red is often preferred for gaming because it's light to press and you can double tap easily because of how the activation works on this switch.

CHERRY MX BLUE! The switch that people think about when you say mechanical keyboard. It has a very audible click and it's almost bordering on a typewriter feel when you type on it. Some people hate it. Some love it. This board is available in 4 different configurations if blue isn't your switch.

There are of course other boards but those are nice starter ones. A lot of people here like the CM ones as you will see. Corsair is also starting to blow up. Expect a lot of pictures of the Corsair RGB when it comes out. The hype is off the hook at the moment. Kind of.

If it was up to me I'd buy a Ducky keyboard but those are a bit more expensive.
I did find a super nice one that is just inside your budget.

It's a brown switched TKL (no numpad) from ducky. It has really cool illumination settings and is overall high in build quality. It's out of stock at NCIX but you should be able to get it at other places if you look around a bit. I would do it for you but my collar bone is broken and I don't have the energy to do that right now.

Good luck with the hunt, let me know how it goes!

u/livingspeedbump · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

You are making a wise consideration, hope to welcome you to the family soon!

A few things to start. I would really suggest buying a switch tester. As easy as it is to read about keys, testing them is essential. Some people say Blues are loud, for others they aren't loud enough. Some say Blacks are too sturdy, others think they are too easy to press, etc, etc. That being said, spend the few extra bucks and test out the switches so you can make a wise investment. Sure it won't tell you what its like to type on, but it will answer the questions like is it going to be too loud? or do I want tactile? or do I want clicky? or do I want linear? Reading can not answer these questions for you, plain and simple.

On that note, a mech is definitely an investment. It should last years, if not decades. If problems do occur, most are easy fixes. So once you do decide what your needs are, such as...

  • size (60%, 75%/TKL, Full Size)
  • backlighting
  • key switch type
  • color
  • keycap set/o rings/other add-ons

    ...then start looking for keyboards that fit your criteria. I will say, above all, don't settle on key switch type, all the other stuff can be added or changed fairly easily. Size is probably the next most important decision (in some cases the priority of these two may be flipped).

    If you come back with some of your wants/needs/budget we can start looking at specific keyboards you may have questions about!

u/papyrusinthewild · 5 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

"Build log" (mostly pictures) is in the imgur album.

This started off as a stock WASD V2 with Cherry MX Clear switches. I bought a 55g uniform RealForce not long after, and that has been my daily driver pretty much ever since. I actually thought I might just sell the WASD for whatever I could get for it.

I decided instead to go for the ergo clear mod, which sounds absolutely fantastic on the videos I've seen here, here, and others on YouTube. I also decided that while I had the case all apart I would add dampening foam to it and paint it to go with the SA carbon I just received.

Paint and clear coat for the case were from the local hardware store. I found the dampening foam on Amazon. I also picked up a Hakko tip cleaner and Engineer solder sucker from Amazon. The 62g gold springs and lubes are from Mehkee. They were out of their kits, but the lubes that are in the kit are all sold separately on their site, so no problemo.

The whole thing took about a week, give or take, and it was very tedious, to say the least. But the outcome has been simply spectacular. The ergo clears are so buttery smooth, and they sound awesome with SA doubleshot caps. I think the case color came out great. The WASD is now feeling a whole lot more premium!

Edit: this video was super helpful for the case painting.

Edit: here is the “before” post -

u/monkeyking6789 · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Okay, so I've owned a Corsair K65 for a year now and still barely know anything about mechanical keyboards, but I'm learning more everyday. I love the MX Cherry Reds I have on it and have o-rings to dampen the noise, but I want something equally quiet or even quieter with some more feedback. I don't like clicky so I think MX Browns are good, if anyone has suggestions for me i'd appreciate it. I want a more compact keyboard, but I can't live without arrow keys, so I think a 68-key is best for me, and ideally it would be both wired and wireless, but that seems like a rare find. So either wired or wireless is fine, I just hate the bulky wire on my Corsair. I've also got a Tai-Hao Hawaii keyset coming in a couple months from Massdrop.

Now for my big question, can someone tell me the big difference between these two keyboards and why the prices are so different? Why would it be worth it to save up for the Varmilo?



u/violetviceroy · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I wouldnt worry about it. iKBC makes high-quality boards. "Real" cherry switches are no better than many of their competitiors, such as kailh switches and gateron switches, and generally tend to feel worse. If you do a search of this forum (which I strongly recommend, so that you learn more about mech boards in general), you'll find that most serious enthusiasts do not like the feel of cherry switches unless they have modified them in some way - such as taking them apart to apply lube, or swapping them into the housing of one of their competitors. "Real Cherry" is a marketing gimmick, and if this is your only concern, you can save money by getting a "knock-off" board for much less.

As for stabilizers: this is a case of you get what you pay for. Off-the-shelf boards with great stabilizers include: vortex vibe (60% + numpad), and the vortex race (75%, no numpad), but these tend to retail for around $130 USD. Other more expensive brands, such as leopold, have great stabilizers too. Rattly stabs are easy to fix, in any case.

Other brands you might look into: Coolermaster makes solid entry-level full-sized boards, and they have excellent stabilizers, and does the brand Ducky. Rosewill is another option:

Another option still is RedDragon:

Cooler Master: .

And yes, fees tend to be higher in Canada.

If you are really, truly, concerned, I would spend the time to do some keyword searches in this forum. I dont mean this offensively, but a lot of your concerns are fairly noobish and reading up on what other people say will probably assuage them, and make you feel better about spending money on whatever board you eventually do get (I speak from experience on this). Your keyboard needs are fairly straightforward, so you should be able to get a solid board that meets them without spending more than you want to.

u/alose · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Do you know what switches? You should try some mechanical keyboards at Best Buy or Microcenter to get a feel for the different switch types.

Generally, you are better to get a separate wrist rest, as most any that come with a keyboard are just cheap plastic. Personally, I like my Grifiti for a wrist rest.

As you are used to using a Laptop keyboard, and presumably want a more portable keyboard, I would suggest a 60%.

The Magicforce 68 I a great bargain. There is nothing that equals the build quality in this price range.

For a bit more, and even better build, would be the KB Paradise V60 in Clears or Gateron Browns. Clears and Browns are tactile, yet quiet switches. Generally they are considered good for both gaming and typing.

For a bit more, there is the Pok3r. You get a metal case, and programmable keys over the V60.

60% keyboards have everything a larger Tenkeyless have in keys, but some keys like Home are only available by pressing the Function key.

If you want a TKL, then your best options are a CM Storm QFR or Ducky One TKL. CM makes a good quality board. Ducky is better but correspondingly costs more.

u/Busted_D · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

For the best tactility in that price range, see if you can find some boards with Cherry MX clears. I know the Pok3r can be had with clears for $130 or less, but that's a 60% board with no dedicated arrows. If not, I'd highly recommend Gateron browns over Cherry MX browns. They're a bit wobblier, but the extra smoothness makes the tactile bump noticably more apparent (and enjoyable IMO). The Magicforce 68 is pretty highly recommended as a good budget board, and it's available with Gat browns.

This is where I started my search, but I intentionally wanted a super cheap board to start with. Happy hunting!

u/braxtonjames · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Hi everyone! I have a few questions about a few different things.

  1. I recently purchased a Salmon on Ice v2 keyboard (Whitefox PCB) as my first dive into custom boards, and though it sounds pleasant when typed with, it requires a huge amount of force to actuate when compared to the standard Brown or Red switch. I currently have an Akko 3068 and Varmilo VB87m (both with Brown switches) and both are so much easier to game/type on for extended periods of time. I wanted to lube the switches to see if that would help, so I bought this lube but I'm honestly terrified about taking the board apart since I spent ~$240 on it. I also tried some O-Rings, but they didn't seem to help much. Any suggestions or advice would be incredibly appreciated.
  2. I am also looking to get my girlfriend a board, and she wants something similar to GMK Samurai or GMK Bento keycaps; basically anything with secondary Japanese characters on the caps. Those probably go for ~150-200 for the set, so something cheaper with similar aesthetics is what I'm looking for. She wants a white casing, so I was going to go with this with some nice keycaps. Any recommendations on a cheaper/similar version of those keycaps, as well as maybe a better (or wireless) 65%/TKL base to use!

    Sorry if it was a wall of text/unclear, but any help would be greatly appreciated :) I can answer any clarifying questions relatively quickly.
u/rsiwrisk · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I'm planning on getting my first mechanical keyboard and could really use some advice. At the moment, I'm torn between:

  1. KBParadise V80 TKL
  2. KUL ES-87
  3. Qisan MagicForce

    The first two use Cherry MX Clears and I'm not really sure how to judge the relative quality of the boards. Does anybody have any opinions on that? The third option is an inexpensive board using OUTEMU blues. That's me wondering whether I should dip my foot in the water a little bit before committing to something more expensive.

    I used a Cherry Mx Blue keyboard for a couple of minutes recently and my first reaction was that the keys were surprisingly light and easy to bottom out. I then bought a switch tester and found the Clears to seem nicest; quiet with a strong tactile bump and a high force after actuation to prevent bottoming out. I'm just wondering if I only prefer this due to familiarity because I'm used to using the old-style Thinkpad keyboards which are most similar to the Clears. Maybe if I forced myself to use a lighter keyboard then I would adjust and end up loving it. Or maybe I should get Greens or Browns as a bit of a compromise.

    So, if anybody has any advice on the V80 TKL vs the KUL ES-87 then that would be awesome. I would also love to hear any broader advice on whether I should trust my first impressions or just start with a more popular and less expensive switch to see how I adjust. I'm sure that plenty of people here have made a similar transition from rubber domes.
u/mc57127 · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

There is a ton of info in the wiki.

As for gaming, I suppose if you played a game that made use of the number pad a lot, then you would want a full size 104 key board. Also, some boards like the Razer blackwidow have extra keys that do....things.

If you never use the number pad, then any ~87 key board (tenkeyless) or ~61 key board (60%) board would be fine.

As for typing, much like gaming, it depends primarily on the type of switches the board has, and not so much the board itself.There are a ton of different opinions about which switches are better for typing and which are better for gaming and which are best for both.Totally subjective.

You could maybe get a key sampler to try out some of the most popular cherry mx switches and see which you like best. There are lots of different switches out there, though. As i said, there is a lot of info on the wiki, and other sites like deskthority have wikis explaining the different switches too.

u/PyjamaSlam · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Hey guys!

I'm slowly becoming obsessed with this sub, think it's such a cool community and I love all the gorgeous keyboards being posted.

I'm looking to buy my first keyboard, and I have been thinking about the CM quickfire TK:

I love the form factor as I love the compact size but really want a num-pad. I've recently started seeing more keyboards like this though, I think they're the RS96 and ZZ96? Like these: and Ducky Lightsaver:

But I have no clue where to find these. I kinda assume that these are really expensive/rare or something? Are there any other boards that have this layout that would be better for someone looking to buy their first board?

Thanks for any help. Also, just to say, I wouldn't be against putting one together, but I understand that can be quite an expensive/intensive process

u/mavericknik · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

So I'm looking to get a nicer mechanical keyboard. Currently I have one Velocifire Cheapo wireless that cost me $30 and has what I believe are Outemu browns. I also have an Alienware aw568 (Kailh brown).

I'm looking at buying something modular so I can replace keys when I feel like a change and am seriously considering getting the GMMK TKL. The switch options just on the GMMK website were confusing enough but when I started looking for answers, I found out there are a million other switches I can use on the board lol.

From what I have, I like the tactile feel of the outemu, the kailh just seem a little mushy but it feels like th ekailh's are a lot more consistent compared to the outemu's. Could someone recommend me a switch similar to the kailh brown that has slightly more tactile feel? In addition, as a beginner are the $20 keycaps from amazon good for the price? I'm overwhelmed with my choices right now and would appreciate any help!

EDIT: Also, what is the QMK firmware and do I really need it? The GMMK doesnt seem to be compatible but the massdrop ctrl seems to be.

u/-_-_-__--__-- · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I'm completely new to mechanical keyboards and looking to get my first one.

I really don't know which kind of switch I want, but I've heard that Cherry MX Blues are the best for noobs. I'm sort of worried about the sound though, maybe I will end up with the browns.

Here are a few keyboards I've been looking at:

  • Rosewill RK9000 - looks like the best value in terms of price, but right now I can only get it with blues.
  • Unicomp SpaceSaver M - Mac buckling spring keyboard. A buckling spring keyboard looks good, but I don't know about the sound level or the build quality of this model.
  • CM Storm QuickFire Rapid - I think the TKL layout might take some getting used to but I can manage... overall it looks pretty good.
  • Das Keyboard Ultimate If I were to spend my money on looks this is what I would get. I would get this (Browns, silent model) but $150 is a lot compared to the other ones on this list.
  • Matias Tactile Pro - Another mac-y keyboard.
  • And if I am really spending money I would get something from WASD probably.

    Since I use a Mac, I would rather have something with normal keycaps so I can switch Windows and Alt (and get this if the windows keys have that stupid circular recess on them).

    Any ideas on what to get? Is the Das Keyboard worth the money (it seems like the only one I can get with browns)? Should I get something else entirely?
u/Helpingly · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

The problem with corsair is that they have a non-standard bottom row (weird space bar) so it's hard to find a good keycap set that matches the spacebar (unless you just buy more corsair keycaps).

If you want some good keycaps, I'm thinking about . They're pretty good and I used them on my K70 back when I still had it. Made from PBT so they're a bit tougher and thicker too.

If you want a new keyboard recommendation, my recommendation would be to find a keyboard that has silent switches (like Silent reds or blacks), that is, if you like the feel of linears. Gateron browns would probably be your best bet for a switch that is "tactile" yet still pretty quiet, though I think by your description of your typing they'll still be pretty loud because of your bottoming out. Maybe investing in some O-rings might help you out.

u/Ryvaeus · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

>I want the feel of a mechanical

That's as varied as the colors in the RGB spectrum (well not quite, but you know what I'm getting at). I suggest you go to a retail shop that will let you test the different kinds of mechanical keyboards there are, or buy one of these mechanical switch testers so you can play around with the feeling of different switches (there are cheaper ones with less switches, but this one has a good representation of the Cherry MX line). Yes, any mechanical keyboard feels distinct from a membrane, but if you get one with MX Reds and find that it's too mushy for your liking, then that's a bit of a waste.

And, though it may rustle some jimmies here at r/mk, there are even some hybrids available. Essentially, they're membrane keyboards with mechanical components that mimic the feel of certain switches and even allow compatibility with MX keycaps. You get the advantages of membranes (quiet, cheap, waterproof) with some of the tactile feel of mechanicals. And generally they're backlit for your nighttime pleasure.

u/JoeSoSalty · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Hey guys, I'm looking for a tenkeyless/60% mech keyboard for preferably around $50, but could go up to like $70 if needed. I've never had a mech before, but I think i'm leaning towards black/red switches. Mainly gaming.

Unfortunately, i don't know too much about it and was hoping to get some help.

Smaller size and backlit is a must, but I don't need all the fancy RGB stuff, just a light of some sort.

Here's a couple that I like the look of: RedDragon one, This one that was posted from earlier today is amazing for it's form/size, as is this one, and I also like this one, but I've heard Corsair is bad?.

Thanks guys!

u/Berzerker7 · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

So here's all the parts you need.

Maxipad -

Diodes - (I'd just buy a roll of 100, they're $0.019 each at that point)

Switches -

Teensy (your controller) -

Plates you'll have to find somewhere, but there are some on here that can make them for you. I have the DXF I used here that you can share with someone who can make the plates for you, it'll end up coming out looking like this if you use those (material and color are your choice, those are clear acrylic).

You'll also I guess need an iron, but that can be seen as an investment into multiple boards, rather than just this one. Best bang for your buck is going to be this one.

Soldering through-hole diodes is easy, and the Teensy comes with header pins that you use to solder it.

Important note: Solder the switches and diodes before the Teensy, as you can see that the area covers some of the switch headers. :)

I can help you along the way with any issues, so let me know if you need any help.

u/wishful_cynic · 4 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

It's no different than people wanting a pen that feels nice on paper and in their hand. Anyone who spends time inputting text appreciates a high quality instrument with a nice feel.

How do you use your keyboard?

Do you value the number pad?

How hard do you press the keys?

Is backlighting important to you?

I recommend buying this switch tester from Amazon to see which switch feels best to you. They're all Cherry MX switches, which are the most common switches that you'll find on boards from Amazon or (another online vendor with free shipping).

u/frank_n_bean · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

I personally am not a huge fan, but there's a ton of people out there who like them for the tactile bump (bump on blue's are similar though I don't think it's as pronounced on a brown board). I do, however, think that it's great middle ground for both typing and gaming.

Well within that price point, my top two keyboards would be either a CM Storm Quickfire Rapid which doesn't have backlighting or a Ducky One TKL (bunch of different versions, some with backlighting and some without... also comes in black or white. The only NA vendor is and the only ones in stock at the moment are the RGB Black and RGB White).

There's certainly other boards that fit what you're looking for that are cheaper, but both of those are from pretty well-respected brands and have Cherry MX switches in them.

u/Mudbert · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I was looking for Optical switch keyboards and 2 keyboards exactly identical to that GK61 showed up on Amazon




I'm so confused as to why theyre named differently but its clearly the same board right?

Anyways, as far as gimmicks on keyboard and mouse promotions, I personally just care for the feel. I liked the optical switches on that celeritas II so I just wanted to find something similar to it. I have a cheap ass Tokomo keyboard I've been using for near 3 years and I love that shit lol. Maybe I'm weird... I prefer it even over my Logitech g610 and g710+. I treat my mouse the same way. I prefer it to feel nice with shape over technology of the sensor people swear by. Thanks for the recommendation. If I don't go for an optical switches I might just get the RED version of that Tokomo or the Anne Pro 2.

u/grant1704 · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

How good?

Here is one that will last you pretty much for whatever no matter what you do with it, its the soldering iron I have used for the past several years and has been great on a number of projects:

Here is one that will do just fine but isn't great or anything:

The most important feature for a good soldering station is variable temperature.

The only other things you will need is solder:, a solder wick:, and possibly wire cutters if you don't have them:

Some personal advice is get the best one you can afford if you thing you will use it a lot, the difference between a okay one and a great one is huge. I hated soldering till I got a good iron.

u/powermad80 · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Various switches have certain things they're inherently a little bit better for (red switches for gaming, blues for typing, etc.) but it's entirely down to personal preference. You can read up on the wiki about what each switch is like, but the best thing you can do is buy a cherry mx switch tester, that'll let you try out each of the most common switches so you can get an idea of what kind you like.

If you have any stores in the area you can go to that sell mechanicals though, the best thing is to go there and try a bunch out yourself.

Based on the fact that you both play Osu and have other people around you though, you probably won't want the exceptionally loud blue switches.

u/the_marsupial · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

For what amounts to the same money, if you're after a "name brand" you're much better off with a CM Storm QFR

If you're willing to stretch your budget a little further, check out KUL (, Leopold, Ducky, Varmilo, Ganss, KBParadise ( Admittedly, the options are kind of overwhelming, but I'm willing to bet that any one of these will serve you better than Razer or Corsair.

As for switches, I know very little about the MX Silent switches (no first hand experience). While I'm sure they're just fine, you're really not going to hear much (more) from Browns or Reds (or pretty much any linear for that matter). Not long ago I owned a Leopold FC750RT with Browns...with the internal dampening, landing pads, and thick PBT caps, the thing was very stealthy as long as I wasn't hammering ;)

Best of luck!

edit: clarity
edit2: switch talk

u/deeoh · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Well, I'm building a second Atreus, so that may be my favorite. I like it better for its portability factor, but the Let's Split is great for ergonomics (being able to put the halves at shoulder width is really nice). I think the two things that you get from a wasd over a corsair are build quality and configurability. The wasd is built with a steel plate, so there's no flex in the keyboard. And when I say configurability, that's a combination of the DIP switches on the back and the number of different switch types that they come in. Now, Cherry isn't the only switch manufacturer in the game, in fact, both of my customs use something else (Zealio and Kailh). There are other boards out there that may be less expensive and have just as good a typing experience as the CODE. My brother likes his Magicforce 68, but that didn't stop him from building a Let's Split, too!

Ninja edit: he doesn't have a Mac, but like /u/hingino said, every keyboard is a Mac keyboard, in reality.

u/clickstops · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Welcome! As with all deep hobbies, take a breath and enjoy a day or two of research before committing to too much. Honestly, just clicking around here on new posts for a day or two, and then heading over to /r/mechmarket/ and just clicking every new listing is a fine way to get started. I link that mechmarket because I've found it invaluable in learning what's what, and you're almost guaranteed to find exactly what you want there over the next week or so.

To answer your question directly, just like alose said, a Leopold or Ducky One will be great. There are many options.

A cheap(er) option is the Magicforce. I got one to try out a blue switch keyboard and was surprised how nice it is. You can get it in white with brown switches on Amazon. $40. Search for Qisan brown switch or just use this Amazon link (no affiliate BS, just linking you.)

u/Steveenn · 4 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

That depends on the model you plan on getting. You'll need a Soarer's Converter if it's an XT or 122. For an AT you can use the same XT Soarer's Converter, or just use a dummy DIN 5 to PS/2 adapter and an active PS/2 to USB converter like the Blue Cube.

The Soarer's Converter is more expensive, but it has more features like full programmability, macros and NKRO. That's just external converters though.

Pretty much all Model Fs, except for the XT, can use the xWhatsit internal replacement controller, but it's more of a process to get working. You Have to open the board up, desolder the original controller and replace it with the xWhatsit. It has pretty much the same features as the Soarer's Converter, but it's an internal solution instead of external.

u/ns90 · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Like others have said, unfortunately, yeah it's dead, but don't let that get you down! My first desoldered job, I did some serious butchery to the board. Luckily I was able to fix it so that it's functional, but it ain't pretty. But now I have no problems with desoldering. Like /u/anthonyooiszewen said, it could have been a few things. Definitely make sure you use a good leaded solder. I, personally, like this stuff. Next, definitely make sure you have a soldering iron with temperature control, and DO NOT RUN IT TOO HOT. Lastly, do yourself a favor, and get one of these.

u/TorsionFree · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I think you're using the words "keys" and "switches" backward :) Keys are what your fingers touch when you type. Switches are what they connect to.

You might want to pick up an inexpensive switch tester so you can taste the rainbow before committing. I wish I'd done this before I bought my first, since I ended up finding out that blue switches were not to my taste and decided to return my first board as a result.

Since it sounds like clicky switches aren't an option, your Race will probably have silver, red, black, brown, or clear switches.

If you're looking for the quietest experience, you probably want a heavier switch that will make it easier to type without "bottoming out" as much (smacking the keys against the board). So black or clear switches might be your best bet. Blacks are linear, meaning smooth action from top to bottom so you don't feel exactly where the key activates. Clears are tactile, so they have a little bump in the action that lets you know when the key is activated before bottoming out.

If you're up to retraining how you type a little bit, the clear switches would most help you learn how to type with a minimum of bottoming-out. So that'd be my thought, but grab a switch tester and try them out first if you want to feel for yourself. Good luck!

u/Autonomoose · 0 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

No you need more. You definitely need a PCB to hold all of the diodes, switches and mount the controller and usb female port. Here is what a blank PCB for handwiring looks like. With the amount of time it takes and price on all these little parts, it is not that much more to get a ready-to-go pcb, and it is a hell of a lot less head aches. Custom boards are expensive. If you want a semi-custom at a fraction of the price project. Get your ideal switches, and get a cheap board like this. Open it up, desolder the outemo switches, and throw the key caps in the trash. Resolder in your zealios or whatever you got. Get a good key cap set and you got yourself a sweet board for much less than what you are taking about.

I think the best thing about a custom is making a board with all the best parts with your ideal layout, which comes at a premium. If you're building a cheap custom, it will just be another "meh" board. Desolder/resolder switches of an already built board will get you further for cheap, and will be more ideal than cheaping out on all custom parts.

u/PyroNinja74 · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

For 'most' people, especially those new to the hobby, the go-to gaming switch seems to be mx blues. It really is extremely subjective though. Lots of people prefer quieter tactile switches or linears. Actuation weight varies a lot too. I personally prefer a heavier switch, so the first board I bought (which I'm still using) has mx greens (similar to mx blues, but heavier springs), and for my next board which I plan to custom build, I'm going even heavier and more clicky. I'll be spending a good bit more than $100USD on it though. Another big factor is size. Would you prefer a smaller board? How attached are you to your numpad? What about your FN row? Arrow keys? All things you have to decide before buying. If you just want something cheap, but decent, with mechanical switches to try, here is a very low cost "60%" (I'd call it more like 65% because of the arrow keys, but idk) sold on amazon, with good reviews.. This one has blue (tactile clicky) switches, but it comes in brown (tactile) and black (linear) varients as well. I really would recommend putting a bit more time into researching the different types of switches/ board sizes and maybe even invest in a switch tester from NovelKeys or make a post on /r/mechmarket asking if anyone has one with good, entry level switches they will sell you for cheap.

u/Layman76 · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

ok, that is pretty awesome. yeah, i was gonna say that they are able to be swapped out, and learning to solder and desolder if you don't know how to can actually be a lot of fun. if you have the money for a decent iron and desoldering pump, i'd highly recommend trying it. look for pumps like this, if you do this brand, even better. there are so, so many resources for how to do these things just by searching on the subreddit and carefully going through the wiki, it's how i've learned a lot.

u/xkabauter · 4 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Has humanity gone too far? ¯\_(ツ)_/¯
For real though. I've been using split ergonomic keyboards for over two decades. My wrists like them better, because they are not awkwardly bent, but straight while typing. Plus my shoulders don't clench up that much.

My previous keyboard were regular rubber domes, some with scissors switches. I switched to a cheap mechanical keyboard some months ago. It was a cheap 22€ tenkeyless. The switches felt great and clicky, although they weren't highly regarded. I got another board with brown switches and RGB LEDs (Anne Pro), they were even more comfortable to type on, but I wanted an ergonomically split board for a more relaxed typing experience.

u/Driftmaster · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

So I want a mechanical keyboard for a mac but I don't know squat about this other than:

a. these keyboards look and feel great.
b. there are different types of switches.

Would this or this be a good beginner keyboard? Could I eventually replace the switches with these 3D-resin-coated switches that I often see posted here?

I've also seen some beautiful keyboards with wood-grain and the likes; how does one go about aquiring that?

u/JonNickReddit · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Woah i did not look at the cost of this in CAD holy crap that is expensive ($300 bucks plus $24 in shipping). Very good review on your part though, kinda sucks about the rebinding configurator though.

Completely unrelated but i feel like you might think this is cool. Its Outemu Blue Numpad (Outemu are Cherry knockoff's, but there pretty decent), and for $20, has full metal construction, braided cable, and some cheap Blue's. You may have seen it before cause it was on the front page like 4 months ago. Thought you might find it interesting because we have pretty similar tastes in keyboards IMO (i have been eying the model M and zealios purple for a while :P)

u/greatcaffeine · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

This may be helpful to purchase before you spend a lot of money on a keyboard:

Personally, I prefer more resistance than Red or Brown switches will provide. Blues are pretty nice to type on and they definitely work fine for gaming, but be warned before you bring one of those keyboards into an office - people will probably be upset because they can get pretty loud.

There are also a few less common types of switches to consider: Clear switches are essentially Brown switches with extra resistance, and Green switches are like Blues with extra resistance. If you're a pretty violent typist, you might want to consider those.

And then, of course, you have the classic Unicomp keyboards with buckling springs like an old IBM Model M keyboard. If you've used one of those before, you probably remember the feeling - there's nothing quite like it. I'm typing on a Unicomp right now, and it's by far my favorite keyboard to date. This is also very easily the loudest keyboard I've ever owned, and while it's probably not loud enough to get you evicted from an apartment, it's entirely possible that your neighbors will hear it if you have thin walls.

u/crash2bandicoot · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Know I'm a couple days late but figured I'd answer anyway.

I highly recommend the QFR. It's basically the same as a WASD keyboard for way less, even when buying replacement keycaps. Great entry mechanical keyboard, solid construction, standard TKL layout so it's compatible with lots of keycap sets, and the controller is easily replaceable if you want to turn it into a programmable keyboard. I actually have the same keyboard but with Blue switches, and am loving it so far.

u/Kram_Smada15 · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

First off, thank you for actually saying what you're looking for in a keyboard, as it helps a lot. $150 can get you a pretty nice keyboard, Cooler Master makes the QuickFire Rapid, which comes in Cherry MX Blues, and looks pretty good (if you don't like the font, you can buy different keycaps). If you do decide on buying a keyboard with LEDs, they also make the QuickFire TK, which has backlighting. I would usually recommend the Ducky Shine 3, but they're sold out everywhere (although they are supposed to be restocked in April at But, I did find this Ducky keyboard if you like that more than the Cooler Master keyboards. Good luck making your decision!

u/Featherflight09 · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

What about the CM Quickfire Rapid. If you don't mind buying second-hand, they go for $40-50 shipped on /r/mechmarket often enough. Cooler Master is definitely a well-recommended brand around here. Good mechanical keyboards (ex. Ducky, Leopold, Filco, topre) don't tend to go on sale all that often, so that's one thing. I'm not super elitist about quality but I feel like anything between $50-100 brand new is just an awkward price range. It's too expensive to be a "good deal" but not quite expensive enough to get you good quality.

For lesser recommended but still-better-than-Chinese-random we have this Rosewill and this Drevo.

I'm not super knowledgeable about cheap boards since I'm pretty picky about board quality but those should be some good starting points.

u/ToonsAndCereal · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Well, a lot of folks on r/mk (myself included) seem to be in agreement that Gateron switches are better than Cherry, and those are "knock-offs" so I dont think anyone will downvote you for not buying "branded" switches.

The few people who have posted about their red dragon boards seem to like them, and as far as backlight goes, that aesthetic is up to you.

What country are you trying to buy this keyboard in? If you search mechanical keyboards on amazon, you see a bunch of cheaper options that do have numpads. If you want a mechanical numpad, jellycomb makes one for $20 USD.

Here is a TOMOKO with numpad for $55

Rosewill is $60:

If you really want a solid keyboard with a numpad, the coolermaster TK retails in the US for $80

The Ducky One is another great option if you can save up the $115

u/rojogrande79 · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I love my E-Elements Z-88 75%, great RGB keyboard with (mostly) standard keycaps. Get it with the blue switches (Outemu) and you'll be in clicky heaven. Great entry level price, 2 day shipping via Amazon, and smaller form factor. Trust me, you won't miss the numpad.

u/limitz · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I suggest this:

It's a very good kit, and will give you plenty of practice before you solder your Poker 2. No frills, and will give you plenty of practice for through hole soldering.

Combine this with a practical, but good quality soldering station:

A desoldering pump:

And some solder:

To learn, there are plenty of Youtube videos, I recommend you also solder the Elenco kit, then desolder everything to get a feel for how the desoldering pump works (it's super easy, you can't really screw it up). Then, solder it together one more time for extra practice.

All together, about $66 bucks. Add in the cost of the switches, and you're looking at a little over 100. Still a bunch cheaper than the Poker 2 from Massdrop ($143.50), and you've just learned a life skill. For me, that's totally worth it, but then again, I'm an engineer, and learning useful skills is what my entire profession is based on.


EDIT: Get this soldering kit instead:

Cheaper and has more soldering points. The other one has a shitty speaker which doesn't add much to the soldering lesson, but drives the cost up.

u/totemcatcher · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Question 1: Are there any decent Cherry MX red/brown clones worth looking into? I find a lot of nice layout keyboards from mystery Chinese vendors, but I don't want an awful experience for half the price.

Question 2: Any recommendations on just the left side of a keyboard?

  • Number pad unecessary. Condensed navigation is fine.
  • No weird layouts. INSERT and DELETE close (or Fn overlap)
  • Low profile key caps. (Spacebar 1.25cm. FN12 1.5cm.)
  • Quiet. Cherry red/brown or LP scissor switches. Light.

    EDIT: I guess I'm looking for an 87 key or less keyboard. There are loads of them out there, but /r/mk people seem to be hating on them because the tactile response is different all over the keyboard. Here's some that I've been looking at.


  • 43cm
  • Currently own this very low profile and quiet scissor switch kb.
  • Still working well after 7+ years of abuse.
  • It's too wide at 43cm and has an oddly condensed navigation pad.
  • xmodmapped Sweden/Finland key, Backslash, and Alt keys.
  • Silly bevel makes it even wider.


  • 42cm
  • Demonstrates that a full keyboard fits within what I currently have. :/

    Full navigation pad, no number pad:

  • 35.7cm
  • Sane layout
  • These "Mechanical Eagle" keyboards seem really common, how are they?
  • Any options for "quiet" or "low profile" in this design? Perhaps minus the bevel?
  • Looks tall. Need ramp.

  • 35cm
  • Even better than that mechanical eagle with no bevel
  • Concerned about quiet/low profile.
  • Looks tall. Need ramp

  • 34cm
  • Nope: Can't do Fn function keys and backtick.
  • However, apparently Cherry brown-like means quiet? This is a good sign!
  • This modified nav pad is neat, but a pointless tease.

    Super compact (condensed navigation, no number pad):

  • 31cm
  • Layout looks really good (I don't use right control, can map mod+right alt as right_super)
  • delete and insert same key is cool af
  • Fn pause/print/scroll is also cool af

  • 31cm
  • Even better layout. Scroll lock? (Can probably map around it)
  • I read some bad stuff about "ZORRO" switches.
  • looks slightly shorter than last one.
  • honestly, the best layout. I might buy and then just order a bag of nicer switches if it comes down to it.

  • 35cm
  • excellent scale and arrangement.
  • delete and insert over backspace.
  • huge bevel, mostly awful design.

  • 35cm
  • excellent scale and arrangement.
  • delete top right.
  • cheap shit, don't make me do it.

    EDIT: omg, I need to stop. I can't determine if these small layout keyboards can have their switches replaced or if new low profile keycaps are even an option.
u/SpecCRA · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

What do you think of this? It's the cookie cutter board recommended by the community for a number of reasons. Mainly, it's great quality, allows for customization, and although expensive, is super solid. I know it's at the top of your budget. You could also get a cheap set of PBT shine through keycaps on aliexpress like this.

This is another great, solid option. It has even better keycaps and is super flashy. You will have no problem expanding on either of these if you so choose to later.

u/thr3ddy · 4 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Nice, congrats on the sweet attic find! PS/2 keyboards always require a reset after being plugged in/out. To avoid that, you can get what's commonly referred to as the blue cube PS/2 to USB adapter which will make your Model M behave as a modern USB keyboard. I hope you enjoy the board, it'd definitely a great first (and for some final) step into the world of mechanical keyboards!

u/rtkaratekid · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Hey guys, looking for some expertise from the most clacky subreddit out there!

Just started grad school and, as part of the program, was given the new MacBook Pro, complete with it's awful butterfly switched keyboard (boooooo... ). So:

u/mycarrotbroke · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Hi, so this is going to be a tough one...the price range you provided is very low. Personally, I don't own anything that is of that price range but I have heard that for a cheap beginner board that is decent quality the Magicforce 68 by Qisan is a pretty good board.



If you're willing to spend a little more:


Anne pro 2:


Ducky one 2 Mini:


Best of luck!

u/cyborgbear · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I've had a Corsair Strafe RGB for a few years and have liked it, but am realizing I don't really use any of the extra features (the software to set custom lighting is a major pain, and keeping lights on seems to produce a light buzzing noise in my headphones so I've just been keeping it off). Also, for the first time in 20+ years, I spilled a little onto the keyboard - was working fine until I removed the spacebar to wipe it up and replaced it, then it had a problem spamming space for a while (unplugged and left it for the night), then briefly holding another key, but seems like it works fine now.


ANYWAY: Magicforce 68 or Plugable from the buying guide, any suggestions? I don't care at all about a backlight and realistically I don't think I need the tenkey. The Magicforce one does look a bit silly but pictures with replaced keycaps look pretty nice. Open to pretty much anything, those two just looked like great value

u/-LogaM- · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Don't get ducky. It's over priced because pro fortnite players use it. I recommend the ap2 because it's like 90 bucks on Amazon and it has great RGB, nice software, high quality build, and comes in kailh switches which, IMO are cheaper, better Cherry's. Ap2 is real nice. If you want to delve deeper into the neverending abyss of mechanical keebs then go on to kbdfans fans(after doing some switch research) and get a tada 68. They come in like 50 different switches.

You could buy this and then some switches and keycaps. All you have to do is pop in the switches. It's plug and play.

$3 = 10 s

This but these keycaps, which look amazing with they RGB. Or you can get any other keycaps you may want. And you have a nice ass board for just over $100. I have this exact board and I customized it to my liking. It works phenomenally.

*Posted on alt

u/HXSC · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

If you go gaming/typing 50/50, I would recommend browns. here is a guide though:

The Corsair RGB is nice but it's definitely on the expensive side even for mechs. Unless you are really into the lights I would suggest something else. The Ducky Shine 5 has great build and great coloring but is for a lot cheaper ( The CM Storm Quickfire Rapid-i lights up as well but has a limited color selection. Instead, it has an affordable price of $99 which is less than half the corsair (

u/2valu · 0 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

If you really can't decide, you should purchase a cherry switch sampler available [here] ( (or [here] ( if you decide test not as many as the first option provides.)

I would recommend browns or blues because they are both relatively easy to type on and get used to, but it depends if you want the audible feedback or not.

OH WAIT if you think blues are sloppy but you like the click, consider greens. Greens are like blues with the bump and click BUT requires 80 grams of actuation force, which is much stiffer than the blues, which only require 50 grams, so you still get that nice click and a very stiff key, along with less typos and a great typing experience. [Here's an example of a green switch mech.] (

u/Ophidios · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Well truthfully, you won't see folks around here recommend K70s (or Corsair as a brand) very much. They, along with Logitech and Razer, represent a niche of very cheaply-made but well-marketed peripherals.

Sure, using a Corsair or a Razer is going to feel awesome in comparison to a stock Dell/HP rubber dome. But in comparison to a Ducky/Leopold/Filco/Cooler Master (or something you made yourself!), it's a pale comparison at-best.

If you like something similar (black, sleek, and RGB-enabled), I highly recommend you check out the Coolermaster Masterkeys Pro or the Ducky One 2 (confusing name, I know).

u/tigojones · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I would suggest to either find a store that stocks mechanical keyboards and try them out, or buy a switch sampler. Switches are a very personal choice. In general, yeah, Browns/Clears would be a good option for a typing-oriented user who needs quiet. As far as which between the two? Some people feel that Browns are too light and that the bump is barely noticeable, and that Clears are better in that regard. I haven't had any experience with Clears, but I definitely notice that the bump on Browns is less noticeable than it is on my QFR with Blues.

There are a few questions beyond switch type which you'll need to figure out. First will be the size of the keyboard. Do you need a full-sized keyboard, would you prefer a tenkeyless like this Ducky or the Quickfire Rapid, or does a 60% keyboard like the Poker II or KBP V60 sound appealing?

The final thing to figure out is budget. For a decent keyboard, you're looking at about $80-$130. There's quite the selection of form factors, makes/models/brands and switches at that price range.

Just so you're aware, you don't really lose any functionality with a 60%, as they generally make use of layering to provide additional abilities. Rather than have a separate F1-12 key row, there's a Fn key and you use that with the number row.

u/Metaldrake · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

>However I would like to know if the MX switches are the most versatile in terms of keycaps compatibility. Because I see kalih and other switch types being popular as well...

They all have the same stem shape, so keycap compatibility will be the same. What makes for incompatibility would be nonstandard sizes, most commonly found in gaming keyboards with a nonstandard bottom row, or Big Ass Enters.

>I decided to go with MX Brown switches due to low noise and actuation force that is similar to membrane kb.

Really wouldn't recommend that. You should buy a switch tester to try and get a feel for what you'd like best.

>I am also unsure which keyboards are good for beginners in terms of cost x benefits.

Honestly I'd say the Quickfire Rapid. Pretty good bang for your buck, and allows for very heavy customisation in the future (Aluminium case, Frosty Flake, custom keycaps, custom cable)

Other things you'd want to figure out is what size keyboard you want (Full size, TKL, 65%, 60% etc.)

u/OctaVariuM8 · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I've seen these all over Amazon for super good prices. I've seen stuff like this:

Stealth Version

And this:

QuickFire Rapid TKL

Both of them are about $85 with free two day shipping (I have Prime), and that is definitely an attractive price. I just don't know much about them, or how well they'll hold up with time. The lack of numpad doesn't bother me in the slightest.

u/kmcdow · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

I'm relatively new to the sub and the hobby, been shopping around a bit the last two days.

I found this deal on Amazon. Would this be a good starter MK for office use? I would probably need to pair it with a num pad since I work in Excel almost exclusively, but $72 for an LED TKL seems like a pretty good deal, especially given that the reviews are solid and coolermaster seems to be somewhat of a mid-tier brand.

Any advice or thoughts on this board as a first board? I'm looking at some other options as well, but they're significantly more expensive.

u/Saikou0taku · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Closest solid option is this Cooler Master board

Also, I use this Royal Kludge board in black at work Shipping took a while, but it was worth the cheap price.

I think the Royal Kludge is underrated, as it allows macros, and semi-advanced white backlighting. It uses Kailh or some knockoff of the sort that feels fine. I think there may be a few different versions, as the one I got, the keys did not quite match the picture, and the macros were a pleasant surprise. If you do get the RK, feel free to message me once it arrives in a month.

Final note, the Qisan mechanical keyboard (aka, "Magiforce 68") is another solid option, which I recommend for home. I had this board until I botched a solder experiment. All these options are different sizes, and I highly suggest avoiding numpads for home computers unless you really don't mind the loss of space (I have a small home desk)

u/oscarbautista · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Here's some from Amazon:

  • Poker 3 - $130 great board with an aluminum case already.
  • Poker 2 - $90 no aluminum case but you could order a custom one online that suits your liking for about $50.
  • Qisan Magicforce - $40 super affordable keyboard. With or without LEDs.
  • Vortex 75 - $150 great board to consider with an aluminum case if you don't mind a 75%.
u/KatzenKinder · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

WASD is not a bad choice by any means, but unless you find that you really value their per-cap customization I would say that they are a tad overpriced compared to other available options.
For instance, the KUL ES-87 for $129 w/ free shipping.

Or the CM Storm Quickfire Rapid for $105 with free shipping I think, but there's only one left in stock right now haha.

u/Dropouter · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

I needed a new mouse one day and it turned into this...

Then I found this sub while looking for a keyboard during my build out and went with an "entry level" mech, heard good reviews about the Kumara reddragon k552:

Learned about Massdrop and found the Tai-Hao backlit keyset and now I have a new, expensive, hobby. So thank you guys, this community seems awesome and helpful, I will be asking for help in the future for more upgrades :)

u/vitaminainspector · 13 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

E-Element z88. I’ve had it for about a year, it’s great. Not sure of the switches but I’m pretty sure they come in Outemu blues, reds or browns. Great keyboard for about 40 bucks. It comes with rgb so that’s a bonus, and on top of that you don’t have to solder to change the switches. You can find it here

u/Kelsomatic · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Thanks a lot for the comment. So when you say Weller soldering station, you mean something like this and not this which was suggested earlier. I can't seem to tell if the latter is adjustable (packaging seems misleading) but I'm assuming not. If the first link has your thumbs up I'll probably go with it because the price is totally doable, it's adjustable between 5W and 40W, and it looks pretty cool IMO.

Love your work btw!

u/GetOffMyBus · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

They remind me of an inverse version but I can’t seem to find them to link. Basically the part that’s on the top of yours was on the side, and the side is on the top. Both are pretty cool, though, glad you like them

Edit: I think this is as close as I’ll get, the ones I remember were a little different but you get the idea

Edit: I just copied the link from google, not sure how it’s an affiliate link 🤔

u/pkehrer · 15 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

I have the version of this with no backlighting... but it sounds like you want that: Cooler Master Masterkeys Pro S

You’ll never get people to agree on here, but I really like this board. Cherry switches, solid heavy backplate, braided removable cable, simple clean aesthetic.

Edit: also, welcome!!!!

u/team_pancakes · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Nice! I just tried out a few mechanical keyboards for the first time at fry's this morning, fell in love, and I've been shopping around for one all day!! Is this your keyboard? I was leaning towards this since it looks like a great intro 60% keyboard. Anything you don't like about it or would do differently? What's the significance of the PBT doubleshots? I just read up a little - they're more durable?

u/the1gamerdude · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

First gaterons have been a community favorite quite a few even love their switches better then cherry, they are one exception to the clones aren't as good rule. Also check out a cm storm keyboards they are pretty good, maybe not the floating and white plate you want but still a great keyboard.

Link to a cm storm keyboard:

Use the above as an idea but they have other form factors as well

u/FlynnThatHuman · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

It is entirely subjective, but purchasing yourself a switch tester will definitely help! Some examples:

u/TheMozzieBites · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

at the price of the ducky one, I wouldn't buy it unless you either know exactly what switch you want (try switch testers, maybe borrow a friend's board for a few hours, see if you like their switches), or if you're going to pick a pretty middle of the road switch that everyone likes (Blacks, browns, blues etc.). In my case it wasn't till after I bought my magicforce that I realised that though I love the feel of blues, I'm not too keen on the click.

There are so many nice keyboards out there in the sub $100 range, and you may find something like the keyboard I've linked you fits your fancy well on a budget (if just to get you into the game so you can buy what you know you want later.)

u/NollieHD · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Personally, i looked at both of these as well along with the rapid i version. I ended up buying the rapid i and i love it, cherry mx blue switches. If you dont care about the numpad i would definitely recommend that. Backlighting is always nice too. oh and if you end up wanting brown switches its on sale on amazon right now:

u/cweagans · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Start by choosing what kind of switches you want, and then find a keyboard that has those switches. I'd recommend grabbing one of these: It's just a row of switches on a plate so that you can hear/feel each one before you commit to an entire keyboard.

For Cherry switches (which is what that WASD tester has), you'll probably want non-clicky, which means that anything other than green or blue is a good option. Clears and browns have a small bump that you can feel as you press the key, and then red and black are just linear switches that you have to bottom out to get them to activate. There's some difference on the amount of force required to press each key too (greens are "heavier" than blues, clears > brows, black > red), so take that into account.

When you land on a switch, WASD Keyboards has a decent selection with any of the aforementioned switches.

Personally, if I couldn't have clicky switches (I like blues and greens), I'd go with clears. They're about as silent as you can get, especially if you add the O rings on the stems ( - basically, you lift off the key cap, put the o ring on the keycap stem, and then put the keycap back on. Repeat for all your keys. They prevent the keys from bottoming out and making a louder sound. Useful if you type aggressively with purpose like I do)

u/gyroknight · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I love my browns, they give just enough of a bump without being completely smooth, like reds or blacks, at the same time being at a more manageable noise level than blues. I can't stand the linear switches. That being said, your best bet would probably be to buy a switch tester and try it for yourself (there's a pretty cheap one on Amazon for $13: As you can probably tell, everyone has a different preference.

One note about the brown switch that came on my tester was that it felt a bit too smooth compared to the browns on my K95, the ones on the board are a lot more tactile.

u/DerpHerpingtonVII · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Is this a good keyboard? I've seen it on the sub before, and it's a good price. This is my first mech (and I'm using my first paycheck ever on it), so I want to make sure I get a good one. This one is the one I'm looking at, but I'm also open to other (read: possibly cheaper but good quality) suggestions too. 90$ is pretty much my max though.

One last question: if I wait longer so I can make more cash, is it worth it to get this?

u/nwolf1151 · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I was looking for the same thing and found the CM Storm Quickfire TK which does go over your budget but you can probably find a good deal on ebay. Also the Logitech G710+ is meant to be good but again goes a bit over your budget.

Other than that, listen to everyone else here and get the Magicforce 68 which is far cheaper and has better value.

u/intrepped · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Nope, I just assumed you have some type of Amazon gift card or credit. Maybe you have limited purchasing power, who knows. Anyway, here are a few very valid options for you:

iKBC F108 Slightly out of price range, but will be the best option I am going to list here. PBT stock caps, $90 USD

MagicForce 108 $70USD and has gateron black switches (smoother than cherry, but slightly more wobble)

MagicForce 68 $60USD and really good if you like smaller form factors

Drevo Gramr $40 USD with Outemu blacks. Not the best switch, but people rank them among cherry and gateron and they are much cheaper. Smaller layout but not as small as the Magic Force 68.

u/Audaxon · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Corsair K70 RGB can be customized using their software to get a purple backlighting effect. It's a gaming keyboard though, so it's built like a tank and a little bulkier.

Ducky Shines can have purple led backlights. They are a little more elegant for an office as well.

Cherry MX Brown switches (no click when you type, just a bump) for an office, Cherry MX Blues (audible click sound) for home. IMO, Blues are more fun.

Cheaper switches more or less follow the same color code, though a switch tester could help you decide what you like

u/WinterDoggo · 5 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

> I feel like he’ll appreciate the full size since he’s a programmer.

This is potentially completely backwards. Programming isn't data entry, and a numpad is not required for most tasks.

I can't speak to his work style or personal preferences obviously, but many programmers prefer smaller boards. I get by with this.

I would say get the TKL unless you think he can go down to 60%, it's ergonomically better (keeps the angle of your shoulders better when using a mouse) and then you can get a separate numpad if he really needs it, that can be put away when not in use, or placed on the left hand side.

u/AGscooby · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

On a compact layout keyboard like this (or this), the F-keys are usually on an alternate layer so the top row in this case is standard numerals followed by the minus and equals. The F-keys are accessed in combination with the Func key to the right of the space bar. The rest of the bottom row is made up of standard Ctrl, Win (OS), and Alt keys, albeit with symbolic legends instead of printed ones.

Programmability comes in varying degrees, with some as limited as just swapping some of the bottom row keys via dip-switches on the underside of the board. Some like the popular POK3R allow reassigning of most key functions via a series of keystrokes after entering a built-in programming mode. Many of the more popular kit-built boards that show up here allow complete programmability via firmware flashing on the on-board controller.

u/mindsound · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Here's the MF68 in stock on Amazon with Outemu blues. I've tried a bunch of cheap mechanical keyboards at work and at home, and for my money the MF68 is by far my favorite. It's a solid board, great switches, great layout with no weird size caps (meaning any standard cap set will fit it), and the stock caps are nice thick ABS. The only thing I don't like about it is the cap font. Access to the Fn key combos is intuitive. Hands down the best $40 board out there today.

Edit: I missed where you said you wanted backlighting, my bad. Getting a solid board with backlighting pushes you over $40, at least by my idea of solid. I'd get one without backlighting and upgrade if you miss it?

u/CaptMicrowave · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I very recently purchased my first mechanical keyboard, the Magic Force 68. I decided on this board, because it is the cheapest board listed in the buying guide.
Here are some things I do or don't like about it:

-I love the size and shape. I think you'd call this a 65% layout? It's probably my favorite part about the board.

-It feels very well built. Sturdy and doesn't slide around.

-Mechanical keys feel much nicer than the rubber ones; I believe these are Gateron Browns.

-I like the "tactile bump."


-I think the keys feel somewhat mushy. I don't care for them much.

-I don't like the color at all; I didn't think I would mind, but it's REALLY white and I just don't care for it.

Can you recommend any keyboards of similar design that maybe have clear or light gray switches?
I'd like a darker colored keyboard and RGB or back-lighting would be considered a plus.

I'm trying to keep it under $100, but so far the Glorious Modular Keyboard at $110 seems to be the closest thing I can find and it is TKL but not compact.

u/dsac · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I have an Ultra Classic as my office board - similar to OP's, with blanks.

Best board I've used (been through several). I like heavy switches (all my boards have had blues), and I have yet to find something that feels as good as buckling springs.

I have a cheapo Z-88 from Amazon that I'm going to dissect and swap some 120g springs. I'll let you know if that's better. :)

u/KoloHickory · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Enjoy the redragon k552. Buttons a bit too loud though.

I enjoy the feel of my Logitech g510. I think that is a membrane keyboard but it feels different from other membrane keyboards. I'm not big into the technicalities of mechanical keyboards so i don't exactly know how to explain it but I'll give it a try.

I'm looking for a mechanical keyboard from amazon for my secondary pc. Would like 60%-87key keyboard, similar feel to the g510, the k552 feels nice but feels too rigid and clicky for me. Around $30-$60 if possible.

Some that i have looked at that interest me.

Mechanical Keyboard Gaming Keyboard Brown Switch 68-Keys Mini Design (60%) Gaming Wired Keyboard White Silver Magicforce by Qisan

Qisan Gaming Keyboard Mechanical Wired Keyboard Blue Switch Backlight keyboard 82-Keys Extreme Simple Design Black

Corsair Vengeance K65 Compact Mechanical Gaming Keyboard

u/woodkeys_click · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Not a full set, but the Vortex RGBY modifiers set is nice. I have it, very good quality. There are also some NPKC sets like this and this. I can't personally vouch for their quality though. Beware it does look like they are shipping from China and will likely take a while to arrive.

u/CoffeeHamster · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Just took a peek on Amazon and that honestly looks like a really good deal if what you're looking for is a fullsize. It's god Outemu Blue switches which a lot of people consider the best kind of cherry blue clone. A word of warning, if you want a quiet keyboard this is not it. It will be very loud.

One more thing, full size keyboards (i.e. those with an arrow cluster and a numpad) are pretty much the worst form factor for gaming. I'd personally suggest you go for something like this Tomoko board (it's branded as Pictek but it's actually Tomoko) or this Magicforce 68 which is a smaller form factor but is probably the best bang-for-your-buck board on the market.

u/Plutus77 · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Okay I will admit if we're going to argue semantics, then no technically I don't need RGB, but we are doing a custom room dedicated to gaming and we're doing mood lighting with LED strips and this is the only thing that will throw off the lighting since my current keyboard is RED only. I will look into the CoolerMaster Keyboard though.

I appreciate your help and sorry for being snippy. (Never thought I would say that on the internet lol)

CoolerMaster This board here. Except that godawful CM windows key haha

u/hellosethhh · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

First off, welcome!

A great board to look at for starters would probably be the CM Storm QuickFire Rapid; they routinely go on sale for about 60$ with blue or brown switches.

There are some other branded keyboards you can find on Amazon that use other switches (such as Kailh, Gateron, "Switch Master")
Link for Reference

Another good place to grab a sale would be Massdrop however this site is more of a group buy for different products; you sacrifice shipping for a cheaper cost.

Hope this helps!

u/Nibiria · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Question one: Toss it, break it, use it as a desk accoutrement -- I gave my last one to my best friend because he didn't have one. That part I'm not terribly helpful with, since this is my second keyboard ever and I've had it for years now.

So the format you're thinking of is called TKL, or tenkeyless. No numpad, so it's more ergonomic (there's a diagram somewhere, but basically it puts the mouse in a better place for your shoulders). For those that get a TKL and need a numpad, they can buy an external one for about $20 (like this one).

If you want one with a numpad, the format you're looking for is called full-sized or 104-key (sometimes 108-key, 4 keys are added along the function row above the numpad). There are plenty of keyboards that fit this size, most of which you could find here. Generally, if there's a TKL version, there's also a full-size version. Not true for everything, but true for many.

u/Ahgoodpoint · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Good question - after checking Amazon, it seems the model I bought is currently unavailable:

The black DIY version is still around, although reviews say it may not come with the neat little goodies like switch puller:

Good luck on the search!

u/point3edu · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

The Zalman boards are basically the cheapest of the entry level mechs. You get what you pay for. It'll likely still be better than most rubber dome keyboards but it might also break/wear down faster than a normal mech too.

If you're looking at a budget board and don't mind loud clicks:

these have gotten some very positive feedback recently.

QuickFire Rapid is also priced closely but with genuine Cherry switches and is a well established "good" board:

Just keep in mind if you are looking to save money you'll also be sacrificing a little on quality.

u/Jotokun · 6 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

IBM Model F AT. The Model F is considered to have better feeling buckling spring switches than the more common Model M since they're purely mechanical instead of a hybrid design, and the AT had a slightly better layout than the XT version. The AT is also easier to get running on modern PCs.

You have two options to connect it to a modern PC:

-1) Use any 5-pin DIN to PS2 adapter in combination with this "bluecube" ps2 to usb adapter. Other ps2 to USB adapters may not work since old IBM keyboards draw more power than your average PS2 keyboard.

2) Build yourself a Soarer's Adapter. In addition to getting it working on a modern PC, you'll gain key remapping, custom layers, and macro support.

u/Xathroz · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

I have my eye on the CM MasterKeys Pro S as my first mechanical keyboard but I'm having second thoughts because:

  • I see some reports of bad QC.

  • The atypical bottom row. I don't know how much of an issue this is

    Mainly because in the other thread people were saying brown switches were not that enjoyable and they would prefer MX clears instead. I've never tested any mech switch, and I heard reds are the way to go for gaming but brown was suggested often too. Is there an alternative that fits my needs? Gaming and browsing is pretty much all I do on this PC, I don't need to write long documents etc.

    I would like:

  • TKL for extra desk space/ mouse space

  • n-key rollover

  • RGB with individual key colors (or at least backlit)

  • budget €100-150

  • available in Europe

  • gaming oriented switches. I play mainly twitch games like MOBA and FPS, so every keystroke counts. I've lost team fights because my keypress wasn't registered. Reds/clears/browns? What do most people prefer?

    Right now I'm using a Cherry model G86-22200 and I'm ready for the next step.

    Thanks :)
u/Ol_No_Name · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Considering you have so much time to choose, getting a switch tester is a great option because it will let you know the EXACT switches you're going to want now, for any board in the future, and any friends that will want to get a mech too, making for an even better investment. Here are some links to good testers that I know of.

A tester with the most common Cherry MX Switches

This one comes with a Novatouch Topre instead of an MX Clear Other sites to get this one from here and here.

If you want Gaterons too

u/DarkStar851 · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Yeah, it'll require soldering. You can get away with something relatively cheap, but if you want good results I wouldn't really recommend anything <$40. I've heard good things about this soldering station but I have no idea what the 1-5 adjustments actually correspond to for temperature.

If you'd rather, I'm offering free assembly services right now, but it really doesn't look like a hard board to work with. I'd say it's a good beginner project.

u/FluffyUnlinked · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Thanks! Soldering isn't too hard (I also was afraid of soldering). It's intimidating at first, but after a couple hours of doing it, you'll get more comfortable with it. Getting a cheap mech to practice soldering/desoldering on would probably help you get acquainted with the whole process. This is the soldering iron I used, and this is what I used to desolder. I also used this to clean the tip of the soldering iron in order to make it perform more consistently.

u/robofrogmage · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Hey everyone. I've been lurking this subreddit for about two months now, but finally decided to join when I saw that a meetup was happening literally 40 minutes from my house.

Anyway, I'm somewhat new to mechanical keyboards, though I have a general knowledge about them. I actually purchased two mechanical keyboards about a year ago from, come to find out after lurking the subreddit, a less-than-reputable company (hint: it rhymes with Boar's Hair ;) ).

Needless to say, I'm interested in upgrading my work and home keyboards in the coming months. I've currently own Cherry MX Red (home use) and Brown (work use) boards, and I actually have the Coolermaster and WASD switch testers. After doing some research, I'm looking at the KUL ES-87 (Clear), Leopold FC660C, WASD Code V2 88-Key (Clear), and Topre Realforce 87U (55g) as potential upgrades. Hopefully, I'll be able to try several of these boards out in person next weekend.

I'll definitely try to make it if I don't oversleep. I'll also try to bring a 6-pack of something for the community cooler.

u/SwimmingAshes · 5 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

If you want a clicky keyboard you'll want one with MX Blues or one of its many clones.

I would avoid Corsair if possible, they are quite poor value for what you get and you will have difficulty swapping the keycaps in the future due to a non-standard bottom row.

Take a look at the Cooler Master Masterkeys series of keyboards.

They are comparable to the Corsair but better built and better value and more open-ended when it comes to customization.

Just choose the layout you want (full size, TKL, etc) and choose "MX Blue (clicky)" and you're good to go.

u/graysonmorgan · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Hi- I have ordered a cheap Drevo keyboard on Amazon to see if I like the feeling, but I want to know what good kind to get once I decide. I’m looking now at the Poker 3 and these caps. I like the font and color scheme of the caps and the reviews seem good too. Any suggestions or anything wrong with my choices? Thanks!

u/MediocreBadGuy23 · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Sure do! I was looking at the Massdrop listing for the KC60 and then found this kit for it on aliexpress. Thought it'd be a great learning experience to build my own. I've got a pretty extensive list of possible soldering irons on Amazon like Weller WLC100, Soaiy 60 watt, and a couple more from Vastar and Weller. I'm completely new to this so I'm not trying to spend a fortune on the iron

u/Javelin901 · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Before that, MF68 comes in black:

For 65%, The cheapest is probably Magicforce 68 with outemu switches. I would spend the extra for Gaterons, though ^.
The best is the Clueboard or FC660C (Topre switch). Incredibly high quality board at a hefty price. The best for the bang would probably be the TADA68 for $100 or maybe the Leopold FC660M.

For 80 percent, I can't say what the best is, but the cheapest go for $35. The best bang for the buck (or at least the most recommended) are the Ducky One TKL w/PBT keycaps and the Cooler Master Masterkeys Pro S w/PBT keycaps.

u/mpaarating · 4 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Bought these NPKC keycaps because they were super cheap. The overall feel is pretty nice (compared to the OEM caps) but there's some inconsistencies on the bottom finishes and the modifiers are pretty faded already. Overall its a good deal considering the price.

u/kschang · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

QFR is slightly more customizable as one can get a replacement controller for it, making it FULLY programmable like a custom keyboard, but you probably don't care about that as your first keyboard.

For $120 you can almost afford the Coolermaster Masterkey S at $140 for Browns. It's, obviously, full RGB, latest the greatest, brightest, flashiest, etc. etc.

u/my_knee_grows · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

That looks like exactly what I want. Looks like I can only get Gaterons with the backlit variant though (which is an extra $20). The non-backlit one looks like it has OUTEMU switches. Do you think I'd notice a big difference there? The video reviews make it seem like the OUTEMU brown switches are quieter than the Gaterons too which is another positive for me

u/macclack · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Go for it!

I used:

u/lazerbeamspewpew · 5 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

I actually had put this up on mechmarket last week before I decided I wanted to keep the case but change out the switches. I originally had BOX Burnt Oranges in here, which I found to be too heavy, so I desoldered them and put in 67g Zealios—MUCH better. The process was actually pretty painless due to this solder sucker—HIGHLY recommended. The PCB is a DZ60, and the case is from Shenzhen YMD (I believe he is sold out at the moment). The stabs are genuine cherry, of course, and have been clipped and lubed. Keycaps are GMK Muted. The low profile case works great with cherry profile keycaps.

u/puddsy · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Those desoldering irons are straight up dangerous. I'd avoid at all costs. Grab a threaded solder sucker, it's much safer and works about as well.

The general consensus is that a small, conical tip works best for switches. I personally like an elbow tip for SMD soldering, but you can use the same one you're using for switches.

Your soldering station looks like a piece of shit. Buy this one instead. Set it to 4 and solder away.

You've got solder paste in your order. That won't work properly without a hot air setup. Kester 0.031" is the solder of choice for building. You can also find similar, lead-free solder on amazon, but lead free is harder to work with.

If you don't have flush cutters and ESD-safe tweezers, I recommend grabbing some. Ifixit has some for pretty cheap.

Your cleaners are bad. Get this instead. It is, again, safer than your selection.

You don't need flux, the kester solder has it in the solder already.

u/Kantuva · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

>That keyboard may be an XT model. Most of them had a switch labeled 'X' and 'A' that would flip it between the older XT protocol and the more universal AT protocol. PS/2 is based on the AT protocol. Look for a switch to change protocols and that may help. If it doesn't have a switch, you'll need a Teensy or Arduino Pro Micro to make it work. Even the smart adapters won't convert XT to ps/2.

Oh yeah, I have experience dealing with protocol switches, I have other two vintage boards a kb-6252ea and a ok-100m both of them with the XT/AT|8088/80286 switch, also both of them use DIN plugs, so it kinda makes sense for them to have said switches for protocol change, while my main board, the Acer has no XT/AT switch and the standard PS2 plug. Also, in the past when I tried the keyboards for the 1st time, the kb-6252 and the OK-100m just wouldn't work when plugged into the PS/2 port while on XT mode, they simply wouldn't be picked up by the BIOS or the OS (Again, understandable because of differing protocols).

I also have browsed around and found some older posts on geekhack talking about the acer 6312 and that it apparently worked well with the classic Sanoxy adapter, so going by that, we can (imo) safely assume that it will work with other "standard" active PS2/USB adapters.

Anyhow, given that apparently my ideas of trying to sniff the usb keyboard data and bypass the OS with AutoHoykey wont work ( :-/ ), I'll take you on the offer of sending the active adapter.

u/WhatWasWhatAbout · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

A tenkeyless, standard layout with brown switches sounds like an ideal first board to me. I'll want to add a standalone number pad that I can place on the far side of the mouse (or the opposite side of the keyboard) later on.

I'm trying to use some Amazon gift card credit, and here's what I've found so far:

u/ExplosiveTortuga · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Should I go with a Ducky One 2 RGB TKL or a Cooler Master MasterKeys Pro S RGB for my first mechanical keyboard?

After a lot of research I've managed to narrow down my search to these two options (but feel free to suggest others if I'm missing something). I'll be using it primarily for gaming with some web browsing and programming as well. I'm probably going to go with MX Brown switches. I like the TKL because I don't really need the number pad and I want the extra desk space. I'd definitely like to have the RGB.

Is the extra $30 worth it for a newbie?

u/Orange_And_Purple · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I have this. It works well, but the tip on it is a bit large for the more intricate work. I would recommend something like this, which may work better, and it even comes with some stuff to practice on.

u/JosephFaolan · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

> Also, the Cherry Reds felt too smooth as I smash more the keys than I thought and was making typos left and right.

Reds are linear and rather light. I would recommend you only use them if you specifically want them.

Cherry MX Browns would be a good first switch if you did not have any pre-existing preference.

> Any recommendation for the E-Element as a first mechanical keyboard?

I would recommend a keyboard which did not have a lot of extra features which could cause issues. The CM Storm Quickfire line is a well priced set of keyboards with a variety of options.

If you want a full sized, the "XT" is the full sized version of it. They come with Cherry MX Blue, Brown, or Red switches. Blues are clicky and tactile and Browns are tactile. Both are a little heavier than Reds so you should both more comfortable for typing.

u/My_name_is_relevant · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Trying to decide on a first keyboard. I have it down to 2 Keyboards as of now. The Rosewill Helios

And the CM Storm Quickfire TK

I have a $100 Amazon gift card I received as a gift so they were my main choices. Open to suggestions as long as they are sub $100 and on amazon. Thanks for any help.

u/Citrusface · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Here are a few good starter options:

Magicforce 68

Redragon Kumara

Tomoko 87

Personally - I have a Tomoko. I think it's great. It was a little loud so I would recommend adding switch dampeners, heres a picture of my board with Tai-Hao Dark Violet keycaps and some Key Pop 8bit Heart keycaps.

u/ComradeOj · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Could my model M be converted to USB using one of these active adapters? It's a lexmark model M, part number 82G2383.®-USB-Active-Adapter-Electronics/dp/B000I97N1M

I was thinking that I could mount the converter inside the keyboard, wire up the PS/2 internally, mount a mini USB port to the outside of the case, then wire up the USB side of the adapter to it.

Has anyone used either of those two apaters? the SANOXY one is a lot smaller, and would probably be easier to fit in the case, but the Ziotek one is the only one I've heard of for the model M. Would my idea work? Has anyone tried it before? Is there enough room in the keyboards casing to fit either of the adapters?


u/Cloakedbug · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

The most responsive switch IMO is Topre, like sex for your fingertips. No Cherry Mx switch can even come close.

However, 55g Realforce (long live the king) baselines at like 230 USD.

Blues are for lack of a better word, sort of “fun.” Satisfying click, like playing with a toy.

A good cheap blue starter got me into Mech keyboards and could give you an example on the louder end of things.

u/pxlnght · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Is it possible to replace the switches on this jelly comb numpad with MX clears?
I'm totes MC goats good at soldering but have never soldered switches before so if it is possible a guide/tips would be awesome. Thanks!

u/Duriantofu · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

If you're taking about the HHKB Lite then those are gonna be membrane keyboards too. Most keyboard are over 80$ but there is the Qisan ones in Amazon for 40$ with OUTEMU switches. Don't really know how they feel like and the only switches available are blue and blacks in silver or gold plates. Here's a silver with blue switches!
If you want there are also electronics surplus stores you can check. Hope your findings go well!

u/ahmedlotfy053 · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

hi guys, I want to buy my first mechanical keyboard between 100$ and 150$, I look everywhere for the reviews, and I have got really confused.

so after a long search, I came to a choice which I'm not sure whether it's the best or not:

-Cooler Master MasterKeys Pro L RGB Mechanical Gaming Keyboard, Cherry MX Brown

and iKBC PBT Backlit Doubleshot Mechanical Keyboard Keycap for it

will that combination be any good? any other recommendations are welcomed, I will use this keyboard for both gaming and typing(writing codes).

I saw k70, mk750 and HyperX Alloy Elite, but I read mixed opinions, so I can't decide at all.

please note that I can only order from Amazon, thanks.

u/K3lp_Boy · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Not many people use the numpad for much (as it is essentially duplicated keys), and keyboards without the numpad take up less desk space and (subjectively) look nicer.

If you're looking to begin, Ducky keyboards are great options. They have RGB options, use Cherry MX switches, and are of good quality. If you're looking for something cheaper, I've heard good things about the Magicforce 68.

u/xxxyyy88 · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Basic cheap keyboard, do not now about reliability, but it depends on how careful you will be with this keyboard too. Cheap keyboards have tendencies to double click and other stuff in kinda short period of time. My first mechanical keyboard was in this price range and everything is good after the one year of use. It is Drevo Gramr, kinda good keyboard.

You may also be interested in this. This is keyboard with hot-swappable PCB. That means, that you can just pull switches without soldeting and put new ones.

u/OverlyDeadWingman · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

My WhiteFox recently started getting chatter on the R and the 2 keys, so from what I've read it seems like I need to desolder the switches and put new ones in? So for desoldering, do the Engineer SS-02 and this desoldering braid seem good, or is anything else someone might recommend for desoldering? Also wondering for putting the new switches in, if there's any specific size or type of solder I should get?


edit: figured out the solder, but what would be a good flux? what are the different types for and why is flux important?

u/Epicepicman · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

The Masterkeys Pro L is on sale for $135 right now. I have a Pro S (the tenkeyless version) and it works wonderfully. If you don't care about RGB there's a cheaper one with white LEDs as well.

People on this sub tend to not recommend Corsair and Logitech boards because of their nonstandard bottom row (it's harder to get custom keycap sets for them) as well as the lighting being tied to software (which sounds good in theory, but they're usually really buggy and overly complex). If you really particularly like their features then go for it; they're certainly not bad at all.

u/Kromey · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

If you're willing to spend the money, the V80 TKL is on massdrop right now and is pretty dang popular with the community.

Referral link if you want to buy it so I might win some nice headphones :)

As for the $80 price point, I would probably say do the Magicforce 68 even though it isn't a traditional TKL layout, its basically the same thing with the layering if you can manage, or the backlit version of the CM Storm QFR.

u/Ghost-haus · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Right on buddy!
It’s just a red dragon kumara mech keyboard
It just so happens to fit perfectly around the dell keyboard. The four rubber legs keep it above too so you won’t get any unnecessary key strokes from underneath!
Picked up the wood wrist rest off eBay and a few artisans from here!
I’m new and this is pretty simple compared to the works of art I’ve seen posted on here but hope it helps (>’-‘)>

u/Kruzada · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Cooler Master Quickfire has cherry blues is TKL and is dead on your price range.

Magicforce? for $60 you get Kalih Blues. You can also get it with Cherry Greens if you want to get original cherry switches but these are a fair bit heavier then blues/cost an extra $20. If you are truly budget conscious and need to really save then I guess you can get one with Outemu Blues for $40. - Note these are 60% with arrow clusters.

u/Shrklgs · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

I got mine from Amazon. Mine has Kailh blacks but they come in various gateron and cherry varieties as well. This one is only $40 USD as of posting. It's my first mech and I love it. I know now that I prefer tactile switches, but you never forget your first ;)

u/Vuhpo · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

yes, most keycaps, including the ones you linked, fit all MX-style switches, which the ducky one 2 mini has. however, if you are looking for pudding keycaps (the ones with the transparent sides) i would recommend these HyperX pudding keycaps instead. they are better quality, made by a better company and also compatible with all MX-style switches.

u/kurifatales · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

For CM this or this if you need a dedicated arrow cluster.

Ducky is a bit more expensive, I'd recommend a Ducky One. Go here for an easy listing of options.

Hope this helps!

u/TechnoGarrett · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Well the only keyboards I've found at this point that are in my pricerange are the Poker II and the Cooler Master Rapid-I

I love the feel of the Browns, they type well and and they do not have the obnoxiously loud click of the Blues that annoyed the person next to me in Mirco Center the second I typed my first word on it.

However I'm not sure if I like the lights on the Cooler Master or not.

I was looking into this one but I'm not sure if I will like the Greens.

How loud are they?

If they're less than the Blues and a bit more than the Browns then I could deal with it.

I like the size of the Poker II but I'm not sure how long I will last without arrow keys.

But if I like the Greens (going to a different Micro Center tomorrow) then I'm going to buy the QuickFire with Greens.

u/exabir · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

You can try redraggon .
It's super cheep but it a great start for mechanical keebs.

Do you know what type of switches you like?

u/polyglotpurdy · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I’ve never used the Microsoft ergonomic keyboard so I can’t really speak to the actuation force of their switches.

What I will recommend since you’re new to cherry switches is pick up a tester that lets you try out the different switch types. Here’s an example of a cherry tester on Amazon

That should help you get a sense of which switch types feel best to you. Even better would be to find a local mechanical keyboard meetup you can go to where you can try out different profiles and switch types on full keyboards

u/Charles_Dexter_Ward · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

If a 68 is acceptable (separate arrow keys) I have had good luck with Qisan gaming keyboard

available with Cherry blue or Cherry brown switches.
It's a great mechanical keyboard for under $40.

u/account4league · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Does a keyboard exist with the following things under 150?

tenkeyless, PBT, backlighting, brown (or any non-clicky besides red) switches

im being super specific but im just curious if it exists. I found these so far:

MK Disco has everything i need, but idk if KBT browns are bad or not

Logitech G Pro isnt exactly mechanical but it sounds pretty alright on sound videos

CM Masterkey PBT seems good but without RGB, is the one with ABS and RGB going to be a lot different? im not sure if the difference from PBT to ABS is significant

u/thewarriorhunter · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

You can pick up a switch tester to try them out. It's not as good as being able to type on a keyboard but it's better than nothing. This one on Amazon has the major switches and two different kinds of o-rings you can try out. I bought one years ago and it definitely helped. Now I keep it on my desk and let others use it when I start telling them about my geek fascination.

I prefer reds with O-rings. I don't think it changes the feel of them as others have stated, but switch preference and feel is completely opinion based (I just wanted to give you another perspective). I use the 2mm o-rings (red) because I'm heavy handed and bottom out my keys. The o-rings bring the noise down and I prefer the reduced travel.

u/CosmonautJizzRocket · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Well there isn't really such things as a "gaming keyboard" but i would at all costs avoid keyboards labeled as such(for the most part, there are some that are definitely nice boards though). Are there any specific things you need on it? For a decent cheap board i'd recommend this

EDIT: also check out /r/mechmarket for used boards as well.

u/nater255 · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Here are some good (in my opinion, others may recommend others/not these) starter boards that are generally well received around here, complete with Amazon links to actually buy them (complete versions). For key caps, you're going to want to look to the more boutique sites like Massdrop or PimpMyKeyboard .

Pok3r Non-LED 60%

Pok3r RGB LED 60%

Coolermaster CM Storm TKL

Das Keyboard Model S

Ducky Shine RGB

Magicforce 68 with LED

u/whiskyjon · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I'm getting all set to purchase my first mechanical keyboard. I think I've narrowed it down, but of course I need y'all to tell me what I should buy.

I like the small form factor of the ten-keyless, but I actually use the ten-key when typing numbers. I really like the "medium" or "90%" style that incorporates the arrow keys and home row into the ten-key area, but there seems to be very few of these on the market.

I'm looking at the MasterKeys Pro M

and the CM Storm Quickfire TK

Are there any other of these 90% style on the market?

I'm not a gamer, and I don't really care about backlighting, although I wouldn't mind it. I will be using it for general web browsing and word processing. From what I've read, I think I want blue switches, but I have never tried any out in person. If I don't end up going with a 90% I will definitely want a full size keyboard.

Any suggestions?

u/Boom- · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

That looks like an awesome board, looks like it even comes with mouse control on the keyboard which is always a neat thing to see. What cherry switches are you going to grab? You can always grab a switch tester and decide after

Although I think that'd be called a 60%, I think 40% don't have the top number row.

u/TheUnluckyGamer13 · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I do not know if he got you the links but here they are all on Amazon. The funniest thing is that I have it all ready for when I get enough money for this and the Hakko FX-888D.

Solder is the Kester 44

Solder sucker

Desoldering wick

Hakko cleaning tip wire station

u/RaageFaace · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

This one has me curious, I'm almost tempted to get it just to check it out first hand.

TOMOKO MMC023 Water-Resistant 87-Key USB Wired Mechanical Keyboard with Blue Switch, Anti-ghosting Keys, Fit for Office, Typists, Gamers - Black

But the Magicforce mentioned above is a great option.

u/BeyondClueless · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I was wondering if I could get any keyboard recommendations at around $100 or less for a 60% or 80% keyboard (I only care about escape and arrow keys for 80%) with cherry MX reds or browns, or if someone could give a little input on the two I am looking at getting at the moment. I am choosing between this and this at the moment. Any input one way or another, or for another keyboard entirely is appreciated. Thanks in advance.

u/gimli123262 · 4 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

I recommend this. It is a great numpad for the money, and can be a great project if you want to change the switches it uses.

u/[deleted] · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I'm looking to get my first keyboard. I'm debating between this Magicforce and this Red Dragon

I don't know enough about my switch preferences to really gauge which one I'd like better for that reason. I also plan on getting custom keycaps so that's less of an issue as well. So, I'm really torn between the two. Which one would be a better fit for a newbie mechanical keyboard user?

The ugly branding on the red dragon turn me off a bit but I don't want to disregard the possibly better option for something silly like that.

u/Trout_Tickler · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

I'm a proud owner of a CM Storm Quickfire TK, which comes in 3 flavours with different switches & backlight colour, see this, this and this aswell as google searches to find which type of switch you prefer. It cost me ~£90 in total, but I paid a bit extra for fast delivery.

It's currently on Amazon for $75, but look around for a cheaper price if you're bothered.

I got the blue model with Cherry MX blue switches, which are the clicky ones :p, and I've had no problems and am currently loving it. Best advice before you invest in a keyboard is to buy one of these first so you can test the water on what type of switch you prefer, then go from there :)

u/Dvoryke · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Mechanical keyboard stores are far and few anywhere that isn't in southeast Asia, sorry, but it's the truth. You may be able to find a Razer BW in a local Best Buy, but that's limited to Razer's (that's what they're calling them, they're really Kailh) orange and green switches (unless you get lucky and they still have pre-2014 models that still have Cherry switches), but other than that, you're looking at a switch tester.

u/parcel98 · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

Razer's Kailh switches are sort of a knock-off of the Cherry MX switches.

Your common switches that you'll probably find in keyboards under $150 are Red, Blue, Brown, and Black.

This video actually gives you a pretty good idea of the sound, and you can almost tell how they'll feel.

This image shows the technical difference in how they feel.

Since I'm not familiar with the Kaihl switches, this is the best I can do for you: If they were clicky, they were closer to Blues. If they were bumpy, they were closer to Browns. If they were just linear and had no tactile feedback, they were probably close to Reds.

You can even try this to decide on the switch, since you probably don't want to invest so much money on a keyboard you won't completely like. It covers the 4 common switches.

Once you decide which switches you want, you need to decide what size you want. Usually Tenkeyless keyboards like the one I linked will be a little less in price, but you'd have to give up your numpad. If you're okay with that, then I recommend it since it's also more ergonomic.

This is the back lit version of the keyboard I linked you. This one comes with Blue switches.

Edit: So I just looked into the Razer Kaihl switches, and the closest thing that you'll get is MX Cherry Blues (for clicky switches) and MX Cherry Reds (for silent switches). Most people actually prefer Cherry to Kaihl.

u/Crisis_Averted · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Great info here, thanks!

>which is usually more like 50-60€ and not 80-90€

That's unfortunately how it is in Croatia. Low wages, high prices.

>Masterkeys Pro L would be a good choice

Yay I found one. It's $185-190 / 160€.

Christ, on amazon it would be only $131.86 with free shipping. But no Croatian layout.

>HyperX Alloy is alright, too, for about 80-90€

Oof, there's 15 of them on the list. From 88€ to 175€, grim. Anything particular to set them apart?

>Varmilo with Croatian caps

I go to and Cutomization? K, I'm registering right now.

edit: Hm don't see the Croatian layout option.
There's a $35 shipping fee if I'm right.
They ship from China, right? I'm bound to EU, otherwise I get slapped with crazy additional import fees.

Know what, fuck it. I don't need the Croatian print. If people can have all-blank keyboards, I can learn five keys. This makes me free to buy from wherever inside the EU. No idea where to start :/ Ugh I just want to buy something good and be done with it, my head is exploding.

u/Jmana1123 · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

45 Gateron Blues, TKL, Red LEDS

60 Magicforce, 68K, alot of people like this one.

40 To be honest never heard of this one, huge bezel, "blue" switches, and just 40$.

70 QFR, Genuine Cherry blue switches, TKL, great board all around

65 Genuine Cherry TKL