Top products from r/AskElectronics

We found 157 product mentions on r/AskElectronics. We ranked the 2,096 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Top comments that mention products on r/AskElectronics:

u/ratsta · 3 pointsr/AskElectronics

Way back when dinosaurs roamed the Earth and I was a young fella, I forget how old but probably pre-teen, my parents bought me something like this: To make a circuit, you'd just bend back a spring and shove a wire in between the coils. Looking at the "related products" on Amazon, it seems like there are a few competitive products out there too. The kit my parents got me kept me entertained for a very long time. This was possibly enhanced by my father who, being an electrical engineer, would periodically involve me fixing broken appliances, handing me the sledge to help tear down walls during renovations and whatnot.

This kit taught me the basics of flip-flops (which can be used to MAKE NOISE! as well as flash lights), relays etc.


My current flight of fancy is the Arduino and that may prove a more useful tool for you because it can all be done with low voltage, a bread board and a bunch of wires and even better, it needs a computer to program it. The Arduino IDE includes a whole bunch of example programs.

The most basic program is "flash" which just literally flashes an LED. Your next step would be to alter the duty cycle of the flashing. Now have it flash two LEDs and have them on different duty cycles.

A Chinese Arudino UNO clone Starter Kit (which in addition to some basic components and a breadboard includes a stepper motor, servo, tilt switches and other cool things) will set you back less than $50. Additional wires (I recommend getting a pack each of M-M, M-F and F-M dupont leads) are cheap as chips and will help you hook up all the other awesome things you can get like the "arduino sensor kit" which contains no less than 37 different kinds of "sensors" including ultrasonic range sensors, joysticks, push buttons, etc.

Armed with those two kids, a bunch of wires and a laptop running the Arduino IDE, there's a whole world of awesome to play with.

Show me pre-teen who wouldn't like an ultrasonic alarm pointed at her door to make a buzzer ring when mum opens the door, and I'll show you a kid who... is too engrossed in a book to notice. (OK, so my analogies aren't always top notch)

u/samuri1030 · 3 pointsr/AskElectronics

Everyone here is recommending you buy a soldering station - which is 3 times the cost of the full kit you linked which is absurd. The Hakko 888 is fantastic, but not what should be recommended in this scenario.


Honestly what you linked is likely crap and will probably frustrate you away from the hobby. If you get something with easy-to-buy interchangeable tips, it will help you a lot. Something like: may be a bit better of a deal and will be fine for learning. Also grab yourself some well-reviewed solder (rosin-core is fine), a cheap solder wick, cheap solder sucker, and a flux pen (flux will only be necessary if you are re-working - something you may do a lot when you start).


If you are looking for a cheap multimeter as well, anything will likely be good enough. Buy whatever has a feature set you think you need. Just note, that I wouldn't recommend measuring anything like mains AC with a cheap meter. Stick to low voltage ( < 50V) DC and you'l be fine. One of my favorite meters is the VC921 pocket DMM. It can be had for ~$10 and is accurate enough for me with a good feature set. Just note that it doesn't do current measurements. If you think you may get into electronics long term I recommend investing a nice meter. Fluke is the go-to brand-name, but there are many who will work just as well. Fluke 101 is ~$40 and will do everything besides current readings. If you want current, I recommend stepping up to the Fluke 107.


Also not a fan of all of the tools in that kit you linked. A lot seem un-necessary or extra cheap. These are expensive, but Adafruit and Sparkfun are great and reliable sources for hobbyists and have similar kits:


u/Bzzat · 3 pointsr/AskElectronics

I threw myself in at the deep end. The first thing I built was a basic 4 bit CPU out of TTL logic. Took 4 years to get it working in 1983. No regrets doing it. Looks like you've picked an interesting project though.

This is a good book that covers just about everything you need to know including theory, construction, part selection etc. I'd give that a good read or at least scan the relevant sections before jumping in. Expect to spend a month or so on it (no joke - this is a big subject!) It's pretty cheap for the size of it (8x10" and about 2.5" thick) and the information is really nice. There are some math heavy bits but you can work through these easily enough. Some people will recommend The Art of Electronics but controversially I'm not much of a fan.

Breadboards are dicks as a rule. Some of the time they're ok, some of the time they're not. They have various side effects on some classes of circuits and some higher frequencies. If you're going to buy one I'd buy a good one. 3M make the best ones but they're damn expensive. Wisher make the next best ones. The rest are pretty crap to be honest and are probably a liability. If you're doing high frequency stuff i.e. RF or anything, sometimes it's just better to solder the stuff "dead bug" style mid-air over a PCB blank when prototyping.

Any questions, just ask :)

u/loansindi · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

Don't cheap out on an iron. It's one thing if you absolutely can't afford something from hakko or weller, but if you're going to be doing any amount of soldering a better iron is going to be worth the money, even if you've got to save up a bit.

For someone who anticipates doing a decent amount of electronics, I'd generally recommend the Hakko FX888.


  • Heats up in moments (not 10 minutes). This is good because it means the iron recovers more quickly.
  • Build quality. I've been using an old Hakko 928 that I received second-hand since like, 2006-7 and haven't even needed to replace a tip
u/FPFan · 2 pointsr/AskElectronics

OK, you seem like you are trying to learn, and are asking questions, that is a good thing, and even if someone cringes at your terms, that's OK, you have gotten some good links for the terms and how to use them. Don't be put off.

Now I am going to recommend you see if you can get The Art of Electronics 3rd ed and Learning The Art of Electronics, get the ones with the gold covers. They are expensive, but you will learn huge amounts by working through the Learning book. When I was teaching college labs, I would recommend students get these books (2nd ed at the time). You can find all this information online, and you can learn it that way, but these books are excellent and well worth the cost if you can pull it together.

u/Yelneerg · 2 pointsr/AskElectronics

You are going to want to balance tools and parts.

TOOLS (must haves)

  • Multimeters (At least two, I suggest starting with one cheapo ($5-$10) and one in the $30-$50 range)
  • Variable regulated power supply with current limiting (Skip the cheap/dangerous chinese crap and get a used HP/Agilent/Keysight one off ebay like this or this.)
  • Breadboards (several)
  • Jumper wires
  • Wire strippers and cutters
  • Decent soldering Iron ($50-$100) (DO NOT CHEAP OUT ON THIS)
  • Desoldering pump and/or wick (The ctrl-z of the soldering world)
  • Heat shrink tubing for sealing connections (Especially if you are going to be doing outdoor stuff)
  • Microcontrollers (I suggest starting with an Arudino Uno since it has the largest amount of online support material, you could get an Uno kit, any of them will be fine)
    TOOLS (eventually)
  • Logic Analyzer (Let's you see the logic signals in your circuit which is super helpful for debugging, I have a bitscope micro which is decent, but the software kinda sucks and is more than just a logic analyzer)
  • A function generator (variable voltage and frequency for sine, square and triangle waves) (Again I suggest used off ebay, something like this.)
  • Oscilloscope (a really amazing tool for actally seeing what is going on in your circuit)
    PARTS (vaguely in order of usefullness)
  • Elenco Resistor Kit
  • Elenco Capacitor Kit
  • Elenco Transistor Kit
  • Elenco Diode Kit
  • Elenco LED Kit
    (Of couse you don't have to get the Elenco kits, those are just the ones I use and really like)
  • Voltage regulator ICs (Great for providing regulated power to things that need more than what your arduino can provide)
  • Trimmer Potentiometer Kit (really useful to have around for many projects)
  • Old electronic equipment to scavenge parts out of (Many of my parts have come from old equipment or broken ATX computer power supplies. Tearing stuff apart is both fun and yields great parts.)
    I think that's all for now...
u/rich-creamery-butter · 3 pointsr/AskElectronics

Not very. That crimper is made specifically for the PicoBlade series connectors from Molex. And at that, only one pitch of PicoBlade connectors (there are multiples) It will not work with all terminals in that range. Well, it might or might not but it's really a crapshoot. Molex crimpers are generally made for a specific set of terminals for a specific pitch for a specific connector series, and are not intended to be universal. Not sure if Molex offers interchangeable dies either, although I assume they would. BUT not all of their terminals use this style of crimper either. Some have entirely different form factors with different types of dies.

Also, if you haven't used a Molex crimper they have a spring-loaded button thing on the back that pushes a plastic piece forward between the open die, which holds the terminals. Check out this video. They are not universal either and each is designed for a narrow range of terminals. Molex makes dozens of different crimpers. You can fit other terminals in there sometimes but they won't hold well and will be too wobbly or too big. Some of the terminals require unique finished crimp geometries to fit in the connector housing, and so crimpers for them won't work well for "general purpose" terminals.

I recommend staying away from the OEM crimpers - as nice as they are - until you have a specific need for one or you need to assemble a ton of connectors. If you're putting connectors in something mission-critical or very hard to get to, it may be worth it to get the correct OEM crimper to ensure crimp quality. For most hobbyist purposes though - not worth it IMHO.

Instead, I'd suggest picking up one of these. So far I like it a lot more than the "engineer" crimper which I've also used extensively. The IWISS is actually a "combo" of 2 of their other crimpers and covers a pretty wide range of terminals. It will also crimp both wire and insulation in one step, and the die is sized differently for those portions. Much more convenient, twice as fast to do a terminal. The Engineer crimper requires you to first crimp the wire, then the insulation (or vice versa).

The engineer is OK but it's not nearly as good for small terminals. The clearances inside the closed die are quite large, terminals get jammed in there and misshapen or broken. Or the part sticking out of the die is bent by the crimping process. It's also not correctly toleranced for insulation crimping so you have to do it by feel or you'll just crimp through the insulation altogether. I've pretty much decommissioned that one. The IWISS has so far been very good, just squeeze all the way and done with good insulation crimping.

Of course, if you know you will only use that series of connectors and you don't mind the outlay for OEM crimpers, then by all means go for it. They are super nice to use so if you can justify it then more power to you!

u/CanadianGandalf · 3 pointsr/AskElectronics

I'm pretty new to soldering, but I picked up a Hakko FX-888d and love it. It's got 300+ great Amazon reviews and only costs $100. Any complaints I saw were about it being complicated to set the temp, but this was not my experience at all.

Edit: Yeah, the color makes it look like a toy... But I assure you it is not.

u/_imjosh · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

maybe check out this book and see if you can do a little better with it. it still has math, but you can't really get around all of it:

you at least have to be able to do some ohms law and some basic calculations. A lot of other things have seemingly impenetrable calculus behind them but I've found a lot of the time you can just read a data sheet and they'll give you some simple formulas that you can just plug into that work well enough. You don't need to know how they came up with the formulas, just plug in your parameters and go.

You should go on youtube and watch some videos of people repairing amps. there's lots of good ones and you can pick up a lot of stuff through osmosis. also check out EEVblog.

lastly, instead of messing with your nice guitar amp, build a cheap one yourself and mess with it. there's tons of schematics online you can use and it's pretty fun to build one. I put this one together and I really like it: You can buy all the parts from

u/novel_yet_trivial · 6 pointsr/AskElectronics

I own 3 of these. They are good robust basic multimeters. For learning this is plenty. The thermocouple function is one of those things that you didn't know you needed until you had it. As you progress you will probably find that you wish you had more multimeters before you wish you had better multimeters.

With the money you save, I highly recommend some test clips, some wire cutters / strippers, and perhaps some side cutters (links to the ones I recommend).

u/z2amiller · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

I have the hot air only version of the first one, the 858D. It's okay, gets the job done. I got it on the recommendation of a friend who uses it all the time and is really happy with it.

For a soldering iron though, IMO you'd be better served by something name brand like the Hakko FX888D or the Weller WES51. I have the WESD51 and it has served me well. For J Random Soldering Iron, the temperature control might not be very good, and it might be tough getting different tips.

A decent budget option might be a hakko 936 knockoff, which should have pretty good availability of replacement tips.

u/uint128_t · 3 pointsr/AskElectronics

That set up will do all right.

Helping hands are good, solder looks fine (although if you do a lot of soldering you'll burn through that quickly), and the wick is fine.

One other thing you should get is some flux (probably paste or liquid, maybe someone can recommend a specific flux?). Flux makes soldering a million times easier if the parts are dirty.

Soldering iron wise, that's an alright iron. The tip it comes with is fine for large/medium components. However, consider how much soldering you plan to do. Is it a lot, possibly on small things?

Both the Weller WES51 and the Hakko FX888D are both popular, quality soldering irons. Basically, the handles are smaller (easier to control and maneuver), and the temperature is regulated (more consistent/stable). Additionally, the range of available tips with the WLC100 is not as large.

In conclusion, that's a perfectly fine setup (with the flux), but think about how much you anticipate soldering in the future and considering a higher quality soldering iron. Hope that helps.

u/unusualHoon · 13 pointsr/AskElectronics

Personally, I think the best place for a lay-person to start getting a technical grasp of electronics is from the "Navy Electricity and
Electronics Training Series" (NEETS) modules. The modules don't always describe the electrical behavior in a rigorous physics/engineering based way, but instead, they provide more practical explanations and applications. The best part is that they are freely available here.

As a next step, the standard go-to book is The Art of Electronics, which while it is a little pricey, covers a greater breadth of topics at a greater depth.

edit: typo.

u/PhirePhly · 3 pointsr/AskElectronics

I'd recommend that you put in the extra money and get a nice second tier DMM. You can get away with a cheapy $25 one, but when it's your eyes and ears, I've found spending a little extra is worth it.

I love this multimeter, and Dave from the EEV Blog liked it as well. He did a whole teardown on a bunch of $50-$100 meters.

u/marklein · 6 pointsr/AskElectronics

Keep in mind that some of the people in this sub are professionals and they are only going to suggest pro gear. And while I agree with them that a really great iron is a great idea, you can get away with something cheaper than $100 and still get great results.

The iron you posted is probably crap considering how cheap it is. That same iron direct from China is like $5, so that will tell you something. If I can suggest something in between a Hakko and the toy, I've used this iron regularly for years:

u/Orion_Pirate · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

this soldering iron is amazing. I bought one, and on my recommendation, 3 friends have bought one too. They have all thanked me for the recommendation.

It has good temperature control, good tip cleaning ability, and the highly flexible cord connecting the iron to the controller makes soldering so easy. My previous cheap soldering iron had a stiff, heavy cable that "pulled" on the top of the iron, making delicate, accurate soldering work really frustrating and difficult.

u/iheartmetal13 · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

Think of it like a mountain lake and a river. Volts are like the lake. It is a bunch of stored water that potentially could do work. Once the dam is released the water can flow, like a river. Current, or amps, is like the river.

A battery has a certain voltage that you can measure. Once you put it into a circuit, or attach a load, that will pull a certain amount of current which you can measure.

Resistance is all the rocks and stuff that limit the flow of current, or the speed of the water flowing in the river.

Watch youtube videos, and read The art of electronics

Another good thing to remember is volts are pushed and amps are pulled.

u/permalmberg · 3 pointsr/AskElectronics

These aren't websites, but The Art of Electronics and its companion Learning the Art of Electronics are often referred to as learning resources, for good reason.


There are of course web sites that teach you electronics, but not on the level these two books, imho. If you don't want to buy books, then I'd recommend you to go watch bigclivedotcom and EEVblog, they have some great content. There are lots of other YT channels with similar content.

u/VashTStamp · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

I have the Weller WES51 and I really love it. I can definitely recommenced it.

Also, I recommend getting some solder tip wire cleaner, such as this one. If you plan on doing a fair amount of soldering.

u/nixfu · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

Best two:

  • Practical Electronics for Inventors - a new version is supposed to be coming out in 2015 to correct the bugs in this book, there quite a few errors in the book, but its still a great read

  • The Art of Electronics - an old college text book, out of print and hard to find, but a classic. I always considered this book to be a sort of the electronics version of "Joy of Cooking". You can find used copies sometimes at a decent price on Ebay. The new 3rd edition is coming out in April 2015, but its going to be a >$100 hardback textbook and its kinda pricey.
u/weirdaljr · 2 pointsr/AskElectronics

I would take a look at Make: Electronics 2nd Ed by Charles Platt (/r/MakeElectronics/) has been one of the best books for beginners in electronics in recent years and they make a electronics component pack that has all of the parts ready to go for the experiments. It starts out with the very basics, and It seems like the first chapter would be mostly review for you, but it is a hands on learning style that teaches practical electronics for beginners and progresses on to coding microcontrollers using a Arduino Uno.

f e Amazon #1 best selling beginner electronics book, which I can vouch for if your looking to start out at the very beginning with the basics and work your way up to microcontrollers and automation using Arduinos

u/pepperell · 3 pointsr/AskElectronics

At home, I've been using my Weller WLC100 for 10 years now. I can solder down to 0.65mm pitch pretty reliably. You just gotta find that sweet spot with the temperature knob. For me its like 3.25. If you want to solder that fine of a pitch, you'll need a magnifier of some sort though. It'll make it way easier

$40, tips extra

I mainly use this tip

u/iammrh4ppy · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

Wow Thanks for the descriptive response!

I'm not very great at electronics, but here is the exact switch I'm using.

As for power source, I'm probably going to use 110 VAC to power the 4 ch relay board.

This is the solenoid I will be using

Thanks! Your post really helped me think it through. Just need to put it to work lol.

u/Beegram2 · 2 pointsr/AskElectronics

It's difficult to tell without seeing it, but "Learning the Art of Electronics" looks like a book to accompany "The Art of Electronics". If you're a beginner, The Art of Electronics might be a bit overwhelming. My recommendation as an absolute starting point is Getting Started in Electronics by Forest M. Mimms. It's old and used to be sold at Tandy, but it gives a really quick and simply overview of the basics, and you can get the 3rd edition here for free:

If you're still interested after reading Getting Started, it's probably appropriate to move on to either The Art of Electronics

or the much cheaper Practical Electronics for Inventors (as mentioned elsewhere - 4th edition is out in April)

u/Ghost_Pack · 2 pointsr/AskElectronics

Depends on the projects. If you're doing anything that requires precision soldering or you need it to last more than a month or two I probably wouldn't get anything super cheap like what you posted, especially if you don't need the extra stuff like the multi-meter and screwdriver. That iron probably costs under a dollar or two to make which is kind of scary considering you're relying on it to control its heat output.


I'd recommend getting a soldering station from a well known brand like this one for any substantial amount of soldering. If you're looking at getting into hobbyist electronics in general or want to invest in a good iron go for something like this.

u/cdawzrd · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

I have heard good things about the Extech EX330 and its thermocouple-less cousin the EX320. They are $60 and $40 on Amazon, respecively.

If you plan on measuring AC signals that aren't perfect sine waves, you probably want a True RMS multimeter (see why in this pdf). I use a BK 2707 ($95) that has stood up excellently compared to $200+ Fluke meters I've tried.

u/Enlightenment777 · 1 pointr/AskElectronics
  1. YouTube - Online. Take advantage of it. When I first started learning about electronics as a kid, there was no such thing as home computers or the internet.

  2. Google - Online. If you don't understand something, then ask google. Download datasheets. Two more things I wish I had way back in the day.

  3. Wikipedia - Online. Great for some electronics topics, but it varies from topic to topic.

  4. Books - Online.

  1. Books - Printed. Buy at least one or two starter books.

  1. Historical Electronics Magazines - online. When I was young, I had subscriptions to multiple electronics magazines. It was one of the best ways to learn a hobby before the internet existed.

  1. Electronics Magazines - Printed (or PDF):

u/robot_mower_guy · 3 pointsr/AskElectronics

This is what I have. It is awesome. It was my favorite one to use at work due to the size of the grip. I liked it so much I bought one for home.

As far as the sponge goes, get one with the hole in it like this one. You will be glad you did if you ever had to use the other type.

As far as tips go, throw away the one that comes with the station. It is a conical shape and they SUCK for soldering. Go with a chisel tip instead. I think this is the tip I use. Might want to look up a different buyer, however, as I think I usually pay about $4 for my tips. You will want a small one like that for most of your work (I have no problem soldering a small SMT IC with that chip) and a massive one for the really big, rare things.

u/MDAI88 · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

I think i'm going to go with this one here. Its more then the one I originally thought of getting but sounds like this one is MUCH better then the Chinese crap. But I might go with this one here its a lot more but its worth it from what it sounds like.

u/hansmoman · 7 pointsr/AskElectronics

I'll just give you a list of the items I've been using (and like): Hakko FX-888D. The extra tips may be unnecessary, I only ever use the one chisel tip Leaded solder Brushes Side cutters Flux Solder Wick KimWipes Isopropyl Alcohol Acetone spray (use carefully/sparingly) Jewelers loupe Tweezers Hot air station (works well despite Chinesium)

Also, I noticed in Dave's videos he rarely adds flux, just the flux that's built into the multicore solder. I don't know if I'm alone on this one but with flux I always felt the bigger the glob the better the job. Just have to clean it afterwards with the solvent, tissues & brushes.

Edit: Okay that's a much bigger list than I thought, this stuff can get expensive!

u/slick8086 · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

That wax like block may have been flux.

you can clean your tip with a brass sponge or a wet regular sponge (that's what I use) I've had my iron for years. I clean the tip frequently while using it. It will last for years to come. If you get soldering station like a Weller (this is the one I have) or a Hakko You will be able to change the tips. This is good for replacing damaged ones or getting different shaped/sized tips. To me having a "nice" soldering iron makes it more enjoyable to solder. Also get or make a fume extractor.

u/Dartmuthia · 2 pointsr/AskElectronics

I have this one, and I'm pretty happy with it. Seems to fit your criteria:

Weller WLC100 40-Watt Soldering Station

u/babydickonboard · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

Bit more than you probaly want to spend, but I've had good luck with this one for about $90. Korad kd3005D

u/birdbrainlabs · 5 pointsr/AskElectronics
  3. There are companies that will do all of this for you. If your idea is fundable, you can probably just hire a firm or in-source to an ECE to do this for you, and may be better than the 10k-ish hours you'll need to get decent at this.
  4. One strategy when pitching to investors is separate "looks like" and "works like" prototypes. You can demonstrate your (physical) vision for the product while still demonstrating that it's actually technically feasible.
u/engimaneer · 3 pointsr/AskElectronics

I'm excited to see what others recommend. I'm a mech e and only solder about once a week max, usually as a hobbyist on a budget, so at home I have the Weller WLC100 40-Watt Soldering Station which i consider a great value for a reliable entry level unit, and freed up money to spend on other related equipment that is more important to me, like high quality helping hands, decent solder sucker, solder tips, that wire sponge tip cleaner doodad, a rubber mat, nice fan, and even good wire and proto boards. I don't use the heat gun on a regular basis, but the unit at work is a 852D 2 in 1 combo unit and I don't like how much desk space it takes up, so I prefer a separate mid tier or even chepo heat gun, since I rarely use it. Grain of salt, I only use it for melting adhesive or shrinking wrap or random stuff, so I defer to others for good heat gun advice more in line with your use case.
edit: updated the part number for the 2 in 1

u/[deleted] · 7 pointsr/AskElectronics

You don't want a voltage divider, that's a pretty specific circuit made out of resistors ;)

I've found these little devices pretty handy for running things off a 12V supply. They're limited to 3A, but with a little bit of wiring you should be able to run them in parallel... tweak both of them to the exact same output voltage on your multimeter, then wire them up in parallel, throw a 100uF cap across the output leads to help filter the supply, check the voltage, and you're set. Once the rig is running to your satisfaction superglue the pot screws so they don't get turned accidentally.

u/LIQUIPOOPS · 2 pointsr/AskElectronics

The Art of Electronics is an oldie but is very well written and quite entertaining. It goes through just about everything to the 68000 microprocessor (think the first Macintosh and a number of other platforms). For example, transistor man.

u/baldengineer · 7 pointsr/AskElectronics

Understanding a circuit does require understanding the fundmantal building blocks. For that, there is no better guide than the Art of Electronics. While you might find a guide that says, "this circuit works with a common emitter amplifier," you aren't going to find guides that alway explain those fundamental circuits.

That's where AoE comes in. All of the building blocks are explain in plain simple language. It is worth every penny and I recommend everyone who is interested in circuit design to have a copy. If you can get a good deal on the 2nd edition (e.g. half the price of the 3rd), then go that route. The vast majority of the information is still fine on the older book.

u/flazyman · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

I've had this Weller for years, it works great. It's on sale right now for $30, definitely worth the money

u/Ag0r · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

Is [this] ( the book you're taking about? It sounds like that is exactly what I was looking for! Thanks a lot ☺️

u/roffvald · 2 pointsr/AskElectronics

I found that the Make: books are quite easy to follow and things are well explained. You could start with this one:

There is also Make: More electronics and Make: Encyclopedia of electronic components volume 1, 2 and 3.

They come with lists of components needed for each book, and there are also ready made kits of components available on Amazon.

u/TaxExempt · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

I did. I searched this subreddit as I trust a group of redditors more than random google results.

I found this multimeter from a post from 2 years ago.

Is it still a good bargain?

u/jayknow05 · 2 pointsr/AskElectronics

This is a good book on the subject. I would personally work with a 4-layer board with a GND and VCC layer. It sounds like you already have a bunch of layers as it is so yes I would recommend a VCC layer.

u/HIGregS · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

The Art of Electronics is the best all-in-one resource for practical discrete electronics. Add individual device data sheets and plenty of Digikey/Mouser searches with filters and you'll start to get a good feel for general availability of components.

u/scorpionma · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

Holy hell, you're amazing , I'm print a hold to Arduino to complete this learning process.
Edit: also, not even joking, maybe you can pick up one of these:

This is actually really amazing, how didn't i hear of it before?
Thank you so much man, you are using a lot of ways for me and lighting my way, Thank you

u/somekindofdevil · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

Almost every PCB/EDA software doing length matching automatically so you don't need to worry about that. If you wanna know how softwares are doing it, It's more like a mathematical problem. I think they are using parametric curves like Bezier. You can calculate length of a bezier curve easily so you can match them.

If you wanna know more about high speed pcb design, I recommend this book.

u/anonworkacct · 3 pointsr/AskElectronics

Even a 9V will run out of juice eventually, unless you're talking rechargeable. You could also just buy rechargeable AAAs.

Back of the envelope calculations for average alkaline batteries - 9V batterries have ~5.085Wh, 3 AAA's have ~2.58Wh. To step 9V to 3.5V (3 AAAs in series), you'll have efficiency losses in the best case of ~80% with a buck regulator or 4.068Wh and the worst case with a linear regulator (3.5/9) = ~38.9% => 1.98Wh. So in the best case you'll get a 4.068/2.58 = ~1.58x increase in battery life with a 9V, for the added cost of a buck regulator.

u/ItsDijital · 0 pointsr/AskElectronics

I have an Extech EX330, the auto ranging is a little slow, but otherwise it's a great accurate budget minded meter.

u/GunGeek369 · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

Hakko soldering irons are the best imo. Here is the one I have. They heat and cool very quickly.

Hakko FX888D-23BY Digital Soldering Station FX-888D FX-888 (blue & yellow)

u/djkrugger · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

Yeah, if you're not very experienced in electronics better stay with something already tested, specially for anything mains related!. Probably you could use one of these arduino relay boards, they're fairly cheap and are opto isolated to keep things safe.

u/anbolkonsky · 2 pointsr/AskElectronics

+1 for recommending Practical Electronics for Inventors. I highly, highly, highly recommend this book. I am currently an electrical engineering grad student and I still reference this book from time to time when working through simple circuits, either for debugging or optimization.

u/aesthe · 2 pointsr/AskElectronics

I very much recommend this book as a basic intro to electronics. There's no need to complicate this with analogy.

I bought this 'recommended additional reading' as a student and have since loaned it to several non-EE friends who have gotten a lot out of it as well.

u/Eisenstein · 2 pointsr/AskElectronics

For scope: get a used tek on craigslist

For function generator: this kit

For iron: Hakko 888

You probably want a bench PSU as well: Korad 3005D

You need safety gear too!

u/teh_trout · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

I'm not sure if I completely understand the zener regulators but it seems to me as though the power consumption of simple one is going to be wildly high with such a large difference between input and output voltages.

Perhaps if I can ensure the voltage does not jump too high and the current demands are low enough one of these switching regulators will work well:

Too bad they're fairly pricey.

Edit: Better yet something like this:

u/zach444 · 2 pointsr/AskElectronics

A very good introduction to electronics and circuits is The Art of Electronics by Horowitz and Hill. There is an accompanying lab manual that takes you through building some cool circuits.

This is often referred to as "The Bible" and is a common text for undergrads in physics. I still use it as a PhD student.

u/euThohl3 · 2 pointsr/AskElectronics

I've bought a few of these -- they're pretty good for $9:

Battery chargers can be weird. They don't just output some voltage, they follow a charging algorithm for batteries, which isn't what you want to power a simple load.

u/RangerPretzel · 2 pointsr/AskElectronics

The latest update to the Student Companion to AoE was also just released as well:

It's written by my professor and it's very good.

u/myself248 · 3 pointsr/AskElectronics

The Engineer PA-09 is the only one worth having for those little guys. They have a thin jaw that works well on the really short-depth terminals, but this makes them annoying to use on larger (automotive and stuff) terminals.

For larger terminals (common "dupont" up to large automotive stuff), just get these and be done with it. They're the best and most universal I've found in yeeeears of horsing around with this stuff. Their jaw is too thick for the small JST stuff, however.

Those two crimpers cover 99% of the open-barrel terminals in the world, for roughly $100 combined.

u/VanillaSnake21 · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

I do have a home made setup in place at the moment, it's a home made preheater consisting of a hotplate and some clamps, a 1200 watt hot air gun and an infrared thermometer ( looking to upgrade to probing though). I think those hot air stations are not really meant for bga work, more like smd from what I have read. I have an arm in place that holds my heat gun over the board and a concentrator I made from sheet metal that concentrates the hot air on the chip, so in that regard I think I'm more or less set.

I just want to know what you think of these hakko clones, are they reliable? As far as I can see its a Chinese site and I'm not sure what to think of its reliability, what is your experience with it and how is their shipping speed?

I actually have a 19v laptop power right by me, but I looked up this ts100, it's a portable one right? It's around $60, but a hakko 888 ( is about $40 more and has lots of good reviews, what do you think?

u/ceciltech · 5 pointsr/AskElectronics

I really like the Make:Electronics book. It starts with having you blow out some leds and then shows you how not to blow up an led, very practical hands on (and tongue on even) and explains theory behind it as well.

u/WanderingCamper · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

The application is for lighting an archery target with LED strips each night for ~3-4 hours a night to allow the range to stay open. This is in central california so there is plenty of sun during the day and nights aren't excessively long. I feel like the sealed lead acid battery will cause problems due to the low number (200-300) charge cycles they can go through. What do you mean by saying the 12v battery is not 12v? I feel like I won't need a 30W solar panel but I'm not sure. I will most likely use a store bought charge controller like mrCloggy suggested, but I'm wondering if I can wire that up to the lipo battery. I would like to use these if possible which seem to be a 72W led strip, but I will use lower power if needed. Any suggestions?

u/VonAcht · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

I always suggest this book. It's pretty good for an introduction to electronics/basic computers. Read it and see if you like it. There's also a list of resources for beginners in this sub's FAQ, but most of them are electronics only.

u/fatangaboo · 3 pointsr/AskElectronics

Maybe and and and and

This excellent book: Practical Electronics for Inventors

u/dragontamer5788 · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

> EDIT: So it seems there is alot more involved when trying to choose a transistor or FET to use for a given application and they all appear to work differently. If anyone has any recomended resources for learning this wizardry I'd be very grateful!

The Art of Electronics

u/Pocok5 · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

The 120V part is the easiest and the most dangerous, so pay attention to it. A relay module like this acts like an SPDT switch ("changeover/three way switch") - or more like 4 of them. The light are wired up to the relays just like you'd wire up an ordinary room light to a switch.
The arduino just connects to the little pin header on the bottom and is completely isolated from the high voltage.

r/Arduino will be able to help you write the code (you'll only need the basics for this). IDK why the post was nuked, but you can make a new one asking about the optocoupler tapping of the speaker - it will require a bit of poking around to get an idea what sort of thing is going on in the speaker wires.

u/PlatinumX · 2 pointsr/AskElectronics

> Where did you take the formula for wire impedance from? Where could I read more about it?

This is a classic parallel conductor transmission line, there are calculators online. As I mentioned before, the twists do not affect impedance.

You can read more about transmission lines, characteristic impedance, twisted pair, and signal integrity all over the web (and of course check Wikipedia). These are very large topics with a lot of details to learn.

If you want a book, I recommend High Speed Digital Design: A Handbook of Black Magic.

u/lkesteloot · 9 pointsr/AskElectronics

No, neither this book nor The Art of Electronics is good for beginners. I recommend Practical Electronics for Inventors. (Ignore the "Inventors" part, the book has nothing to do with that.)

u/ModernRonin · 2 pointsr/AskElectronics

You can probably get that model cheaper somewhere else, BTW. I just linked to the first place I could find it.

There are also even less expensive choices that are still quite good quality, though you won't get quite as much current. For example, buy two of these:

u/gamma57309 · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

Something like these?

Edit: Actually just found a pair of diagonal cutters and it's exactly what I need!

u/wolfcry0 · 2 pointsr/AskElectronics

This thing is the most efficient way to do it

u/dbuckley · 5 pointsr/AskElectronics

Fair point.

I should also have posted a reference to the Black Magic book, which covers this in great detail.

Amazon link: High Speed Digital Design: A Handbook of Black Magic

u/cosmicosmo4 · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

You just want a controllable constant-current-constant-voltage power supply. Buy this.

Your solenoids, like all DC loads, have some Current vs Voltage curve, that they have to obey. For the simplest load possible, a 1-ohm resistor, that curve is Current = Voltage / 1 Ohm. Solenoids might have a nonlinear curve. But they simply can't operate off of the curve. All you get to do, as the operator, is choose where on the curve to be. You can apply whatever voltage you want, and the curve will dictate what current flows. Or you can choose what current you want, and apply the voltage that gives you that current. The device that you need to do both of those things is a constant-current-constant-voltage power supply.

What you've been told ("the voltage needs to remain at the same level whereas changing the amps with move the spool") is probably just a simplification of the fact that the current-voltage curve in the region of interest has a very high slope - so only tiny changes in voltage are needed to produce large changes in current. Or, put another way, the desired change in current will only require a tiny voltage change. Or they were just wrong, and misunderstand it themselves.

u/Beggar876 · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

Find/download/buy this book: High speed Digital Design: A handbook of Black Magic - Howard Johnson


Scan it cover to cover. It will pay for itself the first time you save a pcb re-spin because of something you saw in it. It has for me.

u/Pandassaurus · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

One last question, what does it mean when it says 5A stall? What's stall? The power supplies I found seemed too big for such a small motor. From what I know, the voltage has to be the same (12v) but the A can be bigger than required without going under. Thanks a lot for your help!

edit: this is one I found:

u/VectorPotential · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

What are you trying to measure? Your pulse rise time will do some funny things to your results if you're not careful.

If you can obtain a copy of High Speed Digital Design, the author describes several test jigs for such tests.

u/ratwing · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

Thanks. I have a Hakko 888D and a big ass magnifying glass. I just ordered a USB microscope (non-cheap, it has a bed for raising and lowering height). Thanks for the videos.

AND - check THIS out! I just used a thinner stencil, and followed your other instructions. Ignore the blobs to the left, I wasnt concentrating on those. This is really exciting.

u/TurnbullFL · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

Finding a good one plug & play will be more difficult.

Here is a 6 amp one. you could try.

u/KosherBeefCake · 11 pointsr/AskElectronics

I’d recommend you get a soldering station instead; something similar to this: Soldering station

u/Who_GNU · 3 pointsr/AskElectronics

I have used and designed several power supplies, so I should have somewhat of an idea in how noisy they are.

Also, if by ultra-cheap you mean the sub $1 supplies with free shipping from China, then yeah, they'll be crap. I've seen flyback switchers with no feedback; they only output the stated voltage when you drew the stated current.

On the other hand, if they are the supplies that came with the devices, then barring rare circumstances, they're fine. Good low-current supplies are inexpensive, because the components are inexpensive. I could build a 1-amp offline switcher with a PCB bill of materials around $1, so it is possible to get a complete assembled unit for around $2, wholesale. They aren't too noisy, because the integrated controllers keep the feedback loops tight.

A high-current switching supply will have discreet components with larger high-current loops, and there is more current going through them, so there is more phase delay in the feedback, making more ripple. The current-carrying components are also often less efficient when they are designed to catty a high current. This can be mitigated by running multiple synchronized lower-current switching circuits, like most PC motherboards have, but the increased cost and complexity is very rare on bench-top supplies. Running a switching bench-top supply well below its maximum current can also put it in discontinuous mode, which will make it really noisy.

A high-current linear supply is going to be noisy with all but the lowest current draw, because 30% of the power it outputs is stored in a capacitor, so it will have ridiculous amounts of noise at 120 Hz.

If you have a really high-current linear bench-top supply replacing a handful of walll-mount adapters, then it could be lower noise, but you are talking a $100+ supply to replace $10 worth of walll-mount adapters. It will also draw much more power and generate more heat.

If you want to trunk all of your 12 VDC wall adapters into one, instead of a bench-top supply, I recommend getting a 12 V laptop/monitor adapter like this. It's essentially the same thing as the wall-mount adapter, but big enough for the multiple loads.

u/RedMushtoom · 3 pointsr/AskElectronics

Meh. For the asking price it's not a terrible deal, but the kit is low quality. I wouldn't bother with it. Get one of these instead. That offers a greater range of temperatures, and uses a digital controller.

u/DirtyPolecat · 3 pointsr/AskElectronics

Now try and recreate that chip using only discrete components so you can understand how it actually amplifies signals. You should be able to make a little push-pull amp with only two transistors, some supporting components, and maybe an impedance matching transformer for audio output.


Edit: also, not even joking, maybe you can pick up one of these:

I had that as a kid in the 90's and it really jumpstarted my understanding of discrete components. I learned the hard stuff first because of that kit, and only later in the 2000's picked up microcontrollers. At sixteen years old in '98, I built my own working guitar pedal, was so proud of myself because I learned the basics from that kit. It did distortion by overdriving with a preamp stage and also had a 8-ohm speaker output for portability. It sounded like utter trash, but it did what I wanted.

u/tttanner · 2 pointsr/AskElectronics

I have a Hakko FX-888 and I love it. I don't think you should worry about a digital or analog display.

u/ThunderFalcon_3000 · 9 pointsr/AskElectronics

This Weller has served me well. Although it takes some getting used to. Just check out some vids on proper operation.

Weller WLC100 40-Watt Soldering Station

u/Mastrofski · 9 pointsr/AskElectronics

The Hakko FX-888D. It's pushing your budget a little bit(you're going to want to get new tips at some point), but I've used them in personal, educational, and professional environments. Really a solid iron for what you pay.

u/RainHappens · 2 pointsr/AskElectronics

Relatively simple option: get a buck power supply and connect the fans to them.

Something like this for instance.

Note that it has a minimum voltage drop.

u/TheJBW · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

If you want the one book to rule them all, I still stand by:

Pricey, but it's a classic.

u/grem75 · 2 pointsr/AskElectronics

I prefer temperature controlled stations, that one just has control of the wattage and no monitoring of the temperature.

Get some good side cutters for trimming component leads.
Like these.

Also, "helping hands" in general are mostly useless, I prefer a vice for PCB work.

As far as solder pump vs wick, get both.

u/ServaboFidem · 2 pointsr/AskElectronics

Ahh... then, that being the case, if you're a novice with electronic theory, then I highly suggest this book: The Art of Electronics.

u/jhansonxi · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

I had a Radio Shack branded 200-in-One project kit when I was a kid.

Edit: This 500-in-One version has a breadboard also.

u/AccidentalBirth · 3 pointsr/AskElectronics

For SMD and I was looking at the following:

Just looking to see if /r/AskElectronics had other suggestions for an iron, and other materials.

u/impala454 · 3 pointsr/AskElectronics

This is the relay board I'm using. I'm going to use two separate arduinos to turn each one on (using "or" logic). I don't have a lot of experience using diodes, what exactly would I use? And do you mean literally I do:

Arduino1->Digital out->diode->Relay input1, then
Arduino2->Digital out->diode->Relay input1

u/KiltedCajun · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

I ended up buying this relay module so I can actually switch both the lamp and the printer from the Pi.

u/kleinjesse · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

I am building a proof-of-concept/prototype at the moment. Once I cobble it all together and confirm that it works, I will have to pay someone to design everything into a single PCB.

I was leaning towards this solution for the prototype:

12V 6A AC Adpater

LM2596 Buck Converter

u/3DBeerGoggles · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

Safety aside (given it's low voltage), I wouldn't want to go too crappy for the sake of reliability/accuracy.

For the ~$20 mark, I'd try an inexpensive Extech:

For the ~$50 mark, the EX-330 was well received on the EEVblog $50 multimeter shootout:

u/Ender06 · 0 pointsr/AskElectronics

Holy balls, for a buck? I wouldn't trust it...

What about some of these off of amazon? I just searched for LM2596.

u/marshray · 2 pointsr/AskElectronics

This is not a recommendation, just some examples of what exists on the low end for bench supplies (off-the-shelf in the US):

KORAD KD3005D Precision Variable Adjustable 30V, 5A DC Linear Power Supply

That's a single output channel for $85.

I have something very similar to Triple Linear Variable DC Power Supply, Adjustable 30V/5A. There are many lookalikes. That's two adjustable channels, plus a fixed 5V (which I never use) for $180.

When working with a cheap supply, I:

  • don't leave it on unattended or overnight
  • always disconnect the load before turning the power switch on or off.
u/TheCatManAdamWest · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

I bought these below because I just wanted a short strip of LEDs. I had no idea what I was getting myself into.

u/frozenbobo · 16 pointsr/AskElectronics

If you want me to make it easy for you, just buy this:

If that's too much, there are maybe some other options, but that is an iron he will likely never need to replace. You can look for other products from Hakko or Weller. Adjustable temperature and availability of multiple tips are both importent features.

The irons available at RadioShack are mostly crappy, so I wouldn't recommend them.

u/42N71W · 3 pointsr/AskElectronics

use this or something similar:

it won't get you the maximum possible cooling power since it'll be 12v instead of 14.5v, but if you really need 14.5v performance you should probably just be adding more peltier modules.

ignore the advice about full wave rectifiers. you don't want to be running your temperature controller on a non-isolated dc supply. also note that 12v power supplies are not the same thing as 12v battery chargers.

furthermore, your schematic seems to have neutral attached to ground. that is probably not advisable. hopefully your 220v powered temperature regulator has separate neutral and ground lines.