Top products from r/EngineBuilding

We found 18 product mentions on r/EngineBuilding. We ranked the 16 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Top comments that mention products on r/EngineBuilding:

u/BUDDHAPHISH · 1 pointr/EngineBuilding

My arsenal of approved non marring tools I use.

​ (600 grit never use this with force it's only a deburring last resort long strokes )


And whatever cleaning solution like brake clean, mineral spirits, acetone etc. whatever works best WD40 even. .

That's pretty much my entire arsenal of things I have to keep on hand to clean surfaces properly.


Now this method isn't for your everyday mechanic trying to make money because it's very time consuming and if I were working on OEM applications I wouldn't be too worried about some of the unapproved methods described here because time is money and if you use the wrong method but you pay very close attention to how you work the ROLOC disc keeping the movement in large swings, using extremely light pressure low RPM you can achieve long lasting leak free finish for the rest of the life of the cars engine . It depends on a lot of factors like the stock studs combined with gasket type, torque pattern, checking head and block being square and true. Cleaning the mating surfaces by hand is extremely labor intensive in some situations it's easy to get frustrated and get whatever abrasive is handy.


This thread is a good one because it's one of the most annoying and tedious tasks when rebuilding race engines. My engine has many places RTV is used and it get's old. Only enjoyable part is seeing a shiny clean factory looking finished part.

u/Toostinky · 15 pointsr/EngineBuilding

There are dozens (hundreds?) of guides for the LS engines. Books, YouTube, forums, etc. all offer potential advice and walk-throughs for the actual rebuild process. If you can't find any you like, try:

Far more important is what you want to build this engine for, street/strip, drag racing, hauling, 4x4, and what you want to spend for the total project. Set a budget for the entire thing because it is very easy to blow $1000s on a motor with many fancy aftermarket parts that don't actually work together well and that don't work for the vehicle it's going into. That's a great way to lose interest in the project when it doesn't perform the way you'd like, and the hobby in general.

u/ignaro · 1 pointr/EngineBuilding

No sweat man, keep it up!

For audio, I have a Zoom H4N recorder that I got used for $100. It does a surprisingly good job for how inexpensive it is. You can also plug nice mics into it if you can find a deal on a shotgun mic. A cheaper/easier option is Rode's DSLR mic that goes in the hot shoe port. Better sound is going to make your videos much better. Anywhere that you don't get great sound, cut to B-roll and do voiceover in a quiet room at home.

Good luck!

u/BlokeInTheMountains · 1 pointr/EngineBuilding

I come from the Sloppy Mechanics world of LS builds.

These mild cams are also great for NA builds.

Turns out one of the original cam grinders saw a spike in sales due to one of their cams being the "sloppy stage 2". So they adopted that in their marketing.

They are good quality cams and offer cam + spring packages:

I've also used this cam:

But it did require longer pushrods since the base circle is smaller than the factory cam.

u/4mula73 · 5 pointsr/EngineBuilding

I've only messed with one Windsor before, so personally I may not be of much help. I would like to recommend one of SA Design's books though.

I have six of their books, and all are amazing. The three Pontiac V8 ones I have are all spot on, and that's from a lifelong Poncho guy.

u/turbotbirds · 1 pointr/EngineBuilding Here is a vid I just did on mine to find TDC, but with the head off. But it sounds like you have it marked correctly. If the balancer is only marked for TDC with the pointer. You will need an adjustable timing light that has the dial or the ability to input timing advance. Then you turn the dial on the timing light so that your TDC mark on the balancer lines up with the pointer. Then the number on the timing light is the timing.

u/jorming · 2 pointsr/EngineBuilding

VWs are a great place to start. Four-stroke performance tuning by A. Graham Bell is an interesting read.

Edit: added link

u/BeastianSTi · 1 pointr/EngineBuilding

I'm wondering if I should be upgrading my bore dial gauge... It seems like I should really be shooting for a .0001" accuracy gauge.

What do you (or others) think about this one?

u/MetalNickA · 3 pointsr/EngineBuilding

I use this one:

$80 and it lets you do 2 springs at the same time. It bolts in place of the 2 rockers and you just tighten the nut in the middle and it squishes the springs down.

u/NorthStarZero · 5 pointsr/EngineBuilding

It's worth emphasizing that this strongly ties in to camshaft design.

For more detailed reading, read The Scientific Design of Intake and Exhaust Systems

u/framerotblues · 1 pointr/EngineBuilding


PROFessional Powertrain VC42 Chevrolet 350 4-Bolt Engine, Remanufactured

u/Frost_999 · 7 pointsr/EngineBuilding

> If I get a serial to usb converter for a more permanent setup, do you think that will work?

The potential for issue is that many of the cheap USB-232 converters are "loose standards" converters... may work on many modern things, but fail on items that are standards-stringent. I used to build / program automated equipment (controls engineer) and would run into this in plants where techs would try and talk to PLCs or PLC-related gear with cheapo converters. As it is, the stack on my dynojet uses a 232 connection and it has to also be the tight-standard style of converter. This unit should work, if any will: