Reddit Reddit reviews 3D Printer Heat Bed Power Module SIMPZIA General Add-on Hot Bed Mosfet MOS Tube High Current Load Module for 3D Printer Hot Bed/Hot End(2 Pack)

We found 12 Reddit comments about 3D Printer Heat Bed Power Module SIMPZIA General Add-on Hot Bed Mosfet MOS Tube High Current Load Module for 3D Printer Hot Bed/Hot End(2 Pack). Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

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3D Printer Heat Bed Power Module SIMPZIA General Add-on Hot Bed Mosfet MOS Tube High Current Load Module for 3D Printer Hot Bed/Hot End(2 Pack)
MOSFET APPLICATION:This high power module is a general add-on heated bed power expansion module for 3D printer.After Sales Quality Guarantee:All of our mosfets past quality inspection before shipment, Anyone receives a defective one please contact us, we guarantee to ship the new replacement.A GOOD REPLACEMENT:This is a great creative part, is what you need, if your heated bed has stopped working due to MOSFET failure.GOOD PROTECTION: When using heated bed 3D printer for 12V power supply which may cause excessive current during times, with this module, it can well protect the connectors on the controller board from burning.
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12 Reddit comments about 3D Printer Heat Bed Power Module SIMPZIA General Add-on Hot Bed Mosfet MOS Tube High Current Load Module for 3D Printer Hot Bed/Hot End(2 Pack):

u/Cap_Tight_Pants · 7 pointsr/AnetA8

You have to use a MOSFET for the bed and hotend. Takes the load of those cheap boards.

These are the ones I bought.

3D Printer Heat Bed Power Module SIMPZIA General Add-on Hot Bed Mosfet MOS Tube High Current Load Module for 3D Printer Hot Bed/Hot End(2 Pack)
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XY5HBFX/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_EkS2Cb7EATCBK

u/achris94 · 5 pointsr/3Dprinting

For assembly, follow the videos, not the written instructions (if you have them).

As far as mods, at the very least get mosfets like this and also search in this sub for ways people improved their print quality. I know for a fact others will recommend more mods.

Just a heads up, you picked a controversial printer. I have had luck with mine, but it's not perfect and many people are going to let you know that. Be safe, and happy printing!

u/grauenwolf · 3 pointsr/AnetA8

Cheaper than a new house. If you are even remotely considering doing long prints, you gotta get it.

This double pack was only $16 and it comes with instructions.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XY5HBFX/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It includes the wires, but I think they're a bit short so I'm buying longer ones for the power supply.



I just printed this holder for it. Look through the files and you'll find the double-version.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2018906



Looking at the instructions, this looks like a trivial change. The 'hardest' part is crimping the connectors to the wires. Other than that, you're just moving some connections from the motherboard to the MOSFET.

I haven't actually done the upgrade myself. I was hoping to last night, but I had to work a double shift. I figure it will take an hour or two, with half that time looking for my wire crimpers and cleaning up the holder I printed.

u/melikeum · 3 pointsr/AnetA8

So far working with the Anet A8 has been an extreme lesson in patience. It's honestly a bad printer but if you're willing to spend time and a little money, you can make it decent. First up should be fire safety. Immediately upgrade to the latest version of Marlin and install a mosfet for at least the bed, if not both the bed and hot end.

I would also recommend ordering new bearings before assembling the printer. The ones it comes with are pure garbage and for $10 it's an easy purchase. Another thing that might be worth investing in immediately is better belts.

After it's assembled and you can print well enough print an X belt tensioner and a Y belt tensioner. After that it might not hurt to print some braces for the weak acrylic frame. If you're hardcore about the frame check out the Anet AM8 upgrade which replaces the acrylic one with metal for about $60.

Good luck!

u/Yeti_CH · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

for ABS i like to enclosure the Printer, so i can keep the heat in. Also i suggest: Do upgrade to Mosfet Modules if you printing ABS a lot, it will prevent the board of casing fire. The connecters to the board are known to start fires. If you want a quick solution, but some brass sleeves over the wires.

https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/kNMAAOSwhfdaavKJ/s-l300.jpg

Never ever try to solder them together, solder joints weakens the thing and after some movement it brake loose, casing desaster. Also put some strainreliefs on both ends of the cable. Don't try to drill holes in the acrylic, as it most likley shatters the frame, instead i always glued stuff to it.

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https://www.3ders.org/articles/20150726-new-ikea-hack-lets-you-create-a-3d-printer-enclosure-for-cheap.html

It's a cheap IKEA tabel to put over. I wanted to stack two of them, but the problem was the mass of the construction (or the lack of it), as it wobbels a lot i would only advice to cover it on top of a tabel...

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here are the files you asked for:

https://drive.google.com/open?id=1NjCn8OF8ddrGB06XAqb-PJJHnOPvXwVJ

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they are a bit crude tho, i did not bother to add a mounts to the chassie, i just glued it on as i mentioned, drilling into it may case cracks. Also the slots for the sd card etc. could be worked out a bit finer and more accurate. but it will hold down with short m3 screws.

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don't forget to connect all GND (so one screw from each board) to GND of the powersupply. So in case of a short circut the fuse can blow before anything can catch fire. Even more so if you upgrade to MOSFET.

https://www.amazon.com/Printer-Module-SIMPZIA-General-Current/dp/B06XY5HBFX/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1539565222&sr=8-2-spons&keywords=3d+printer+mosfet&psc=1

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Cheers and happy printing

Roger


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u/HelpDesk7 · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

Everything he said is spot on. I have 4 cheap Chinese printers and those are all the recommended upgrades regardless of the brand.

I recommend this power supply. It can provide 50% more power and has a cooling fan.

These mosfets have worked very well for me and lowered bed heating times significantly as well as make your printer a lot safer.

Personally I haven't had any issues with the bed connector, but maybe some epoxy or hot glue would keep the wires from moving around too much.

One of the best upgrades I did was to flash Marlin onto the board as the stock firmware is kind of crappy.
This also allows the use of a Inductive proximity sensor which makes leveling the bed significantly easier.

The bearings he recommended, the Drylin ones, will make the movements of your printer a little smoother and a lot quieter.

The belts stretch. The ones from China are rarely reinforced. I'm lazy so i just tighten them every so often. But it would be worthwhile to just start with the higher end reinforced belts.

That aside, once your printer is up and running and somewhat calibrated, head over to thingiverse and search for your printer. There are thousands of upgrades available.

Good luck!

u/Gabgra11 · 1 pointr/AnetA8

On my machine, I have added the following upgrades:

u/lastrogu3 · 1 pointr/ender5

Might help clarify, I'm talking about adding something similar to these in line from the PSU to the power connector for the heat bed on the main board:

https://smile.amazon.com/Printer-Module-SIMPZIA-General-Current/dp/B06XY5HBFX

EDIT: I realized by watching the TH3D video I edited into the original post, that the above MOSFET is for a 12v PSU, you should research if a 12v MOSFET is needed instead. TH3D mentioned in the video that they do carry them.

u/bigbaumer · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

Something like this?