Reddit reviews Duck Brand Replacement Air Conditioner Foam Filter, 24-Inch x 15-Inch x 1/4-Inch, 1285234

Have you tried emailing Noctua and asking them if the Z-height difference can be adjusted for in their cooler?

One thing you can do while you wait is to do a simple pressure test, but unfortunately this costs money since you need to buy the die frame. Delid the CPU, install the die frame, install the 1151 mounting bracket, put a small dot of -normal- (Kryonaut, NT-H1, which you should have already) thermal paste in the center of the CPU, install the heatsink, screw it down, then immediately unscrew it and lift it up.

If the small dot has spread evenly and nice and flat and did not bunch up, then it's compatible. If it didnt spread, it's not compatible. It depends a lot on what is 'preventing' the heatsink itself from touching the die. The heatsink block itself -should- touch it since there's nothing blocking it.

I'll leave you with two threads to research on your own as you wait from an email from Noctua.

(tl;dr: may require a washer mod).

https://hardforum.com/threads/noctua-nh-d15-cpu-cooler-review.1868746/

https://forums.anandtech.com/threads/mounting-noctua-heatsinks-to-bare-die.2488386/

different CPU and socket but: https://www.reddit.com/r/overclocking/comments/9fssrk/7980xe_direct_die_frame_weight_of_heatsink_on_top/

One thing I can tell you is it should be easier to do this on a 9900K than an 8700K since --both-- the PCB and die are thicker, so you have that in your favor at least.

What stops the heatsink from going lower Z-height tightness (mounting pressure) are the two metal bracket posts that you screw the heatsink screws into. However the heatsink base itself should touch the CPU without being screwed down.

If you don't want to spend $30 buying the die frame, just buy the delid/relid kit. Make sure you buy the "10 CPU" version of the quicksilver (Trust me--just do it. 1 CPU is not enough for complete removal if you want to avoid sanding/razer riskiness), and grab an extra flitz polish pack for $1 (One comes with the quicksilver). If you want to save money if you think you may need more polish in the future (or you have other stuff to clean,, you can get a much bigger bargain here: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0025QZMRI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 but I'm getting off topic). You will also need some RTV silicone to relid and reattach the IHS, in a way which will make future delids VERY easy--apply four VERY VERY tiny dabs on each corner of the IHS (after you cleaned and sanded the IHS edges, assuming you have sandpaper), when relidding and let cure for 2 hours. If you apply the absolute minimum possible to stop the IHS from moving (its important not to apply too much; it expands as it hardens which can raise the IHS and ruin LM contact!), then you can actually remove the IHS with your fingers next time.

Anyway I'm curious what Noctua says about the direct die frames. If you email them and they give you an answer (They're in Germany I think), post back or tag me and let me know.

Regardless of what you use with a direct die frame, I do recommend foam dams in general around the CPU to stop LM runoff danger of going into the socket, but this depends on if the direct die frame contacts the green substrate and thus acts as a dam itself. If it does, you're good (although since you also should paint the heatsink as LM needs to be applied to BOTH surfaces to insure proper tension and protect against gallium absorption,a foam dam on the outside (protecting LM runoff on the heatsink) won't hurt either. I used this cheap stuff.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002GKC2US/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002GKC2US/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=inpurofmys-20&linkCode=as2&camp=217145&creative=399369&creativeASIN=B002GKC2US

I find these air conditioner filters to work better, and they are cheaper. Just cut to size and use duct tape to hold it in place.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002GKC2US/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Just throwing this in here in case anyone was looking for case fans also. There is a group buy going on in /r/massdrop for 120mm case fans.

http://massdrop.com/nzxt-fz-120mm-nonled-fan

Also to add i got the DEMCiflex magnetic covers for my antec 900 and they all fit nicely except the one for the rear fan since the rear fan grill bulges out of the case. I'd recommend their filters if you just want to buy and use.

If you want to make your own which might work better for some people use "polyurethane foam" as your material since it filters small particles fairly well and is reusable. If needed buy some magnetic tape to stick it where you want it to go otherwise you can just screw it into the fan and It'll work just as well.

http://www.amazon.com/Duck-1285234-24-Inch-15-Inch-Conditioner/dp/B002GKC2US

I have the same case and I'm considering buying something like this filter. I think the easiest solution to this is a cut to fit filter material.

Or maybe something like this?