Best tools & home improvement according to redditors
We found 100,714 Reddit comments discussing the best tools & home improvement. We ranked the 37,228 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
1. Luxe Bidet Neo 120 - Self Cleaning Nozzle - Fresh Water Non-Electric Mechanical Bidet Toilet Attachment (blue and white)
A LUXURIOUS LOOK AT AN EXCELLENT PRICE- With its sleek design, chrome-plated knobs, and high-quality parts, our bidet attachment will give your bathroom a next-level look. Constructed with high-pressure faucet quality valves with metal/ceramic cores and braided steel hoses instead of traditional pla...
2. Astor Bidet Fresh Water Spray Non-Electric Mechanical Bidet Toilet Seat Attachment CB-1000
[SPECIFICATIONS] Outer Dimension: 18.7 in. L × 14.37 in. W × 3.54 in. H. With 2 years US based manufacture warranty[MODERN SLIM DESIGN] The bidet seat is made out of anti-bacteria PP and fit most O shape toilets. Please make sure you measure your toilet bowl size and shape to ensure a perfect fit....
3. WOWTAC A2S LED Headlamp Headlight 6 Modes Max 1050 Lumen Waterproof Headlamps, Super Bright Outdoor Sports Running Walking Camping Reading Hiking Fishing (A2S NW)
High-performance CREE XP-L V6 LED with smooth reflector produces a defined small focused light pattern, making A2S has a useful spill and flood to optimize your field of vision.Features 5 lighting modes with extra hidden SOS: Firefly; Low mode; Mid mode; High mode; Turbo mode and SOS for long range ...
4. Weller WLC100 40-Watt Soldering Station
High performance analog soldering station produces up to 900° F to handle many soldering projectsVariable power control dial adjusts power from 5 watts to 40 watts for accuracyQuality, lightweight pencil iron with cushioned foam grip provides extended comfort during long term soldering projectsIncl...
5. Micro Cutter
Flush-cut micro soft-wire cutter has 8mm long jaw with angled head for flush-cutting applications on up to 16 gauge (1.3mm) copper and soft wire21-degree2.5mm heat-treated carbon steel construction provides durability and long lifePrecision-ground holes and surfaces provide smooth movement, and spri...
6. Sofirn SP36 BLF Anduril Powerful Flashlight, 4 LH351D LED 5000K 90 CRI, USB C Rechargeable, Battery Not Included
Ultra Bright: Sofirn SP36 Utilizes 4 x Sumsung LH351D Led, giving out up to 5650 lumens, throwing up to 352 meters ( 601 yards )Compact and Durable: The palm sized light was designed with the help of BLF ToyKeeper, it passes a dozen of tests like dropping, submerging into water(2 meters deep), heat ...
7. WOWTAC A2S LED Headlamp LED Headlight 6 Modes Max 1050 Lumen Waterproof Headlamps, Super Bright Outdoor Sports Running Walking Camping Reading Hiking Riding Fishing (A2S CW)
High-performance CREE XP-L V6 LED with smooth reflector produces a defined small focused light pattern, making A2S has a useful spill and flood to optimize your field of vision.Features 5 lighting modes with extra hidden SOS: Firefly; Low mode; Mid mode; High mode; Turbo mode and SOS for long range ...
8. Wenger 16999 Swiss Army Knife Giant
87 implements141 functionsPerfect for the collectorFeatured by major media outlets
9. Luxe Bidet MB110 Fresh Water Spray Non-Electric Mechanical Bidet Toilet Seat Attachment
Easy and quick self installation in minutesEasily attachable and detachable to and from any standard two piece toilet bowlAll accessories includedA hygienic solutionPremium quality and great value for money
10. Uvex Skyper Blue Light Blocking Computer Glasses with SCT-Orange Lens (S1933X)
PROTECTS YOUR EYES: Orange Lens features Spectrum Control Technology (SCT) that absorbs 98% of blue light from laptops, computers & tablets, which helps prevent cataracts and macular degenerationREDUCES EYE FATIGUE: SCT-Orange lens reduces eye strain so you can work longer & more comfortably; also m...
11. Hakko FX888D-23BY Digital Soldering Station FX-888D FX-888 (blue & yellow)
12. KING KW65 1000/6000 Grit Combination Whetstone with Plastic Base
King 01096 1000/6000 Grit Deluxe Combination StoneKing brand known for quality and affordabilityIncludes sturdy plastic base8" x 2 1/2" x 1" thick
13. WaterBOB Bathtub Emergency Water Storage Container, Drinking Water Storage, Hurricane Survival, BPA-Free (100 Gallon) (1)
COLLECT DRINKING WATER IN YOUR BATHTUB: The waterBOB is a water containment system that holds up to 100 gallons of fresh drinking water in any standard bathtub in the event of an emergency. Don’t wait in line to buy expensive bottled water or worry about keeping large barrels or tanks. Collect dri...
14. 3M Indoor Window Insulator Kit Insulates 5 - 3'x8' Windows
Included: (1) 5.16' x 17.5' film sheet, (2) rolls of tape, 1/2" x 27.7 ydInsulates five 3' x 5' windowsLowers heating costs and saves energyApplies easily, shrinking tight, wrinkle-free and clear on glassIncreasing the R-value of single pane window by 90%
15. Streamlight 66118 Stylus Pro LED PenLight with Holster, Black - 100 Lumens
Durable, anodized machined aircraft aluminum constructionWhite LED produces 100 lumens; 950 candela; 62m beam; Runs 8 hoursIPX4 – water resistant; 2m impact resistance testedAbout the size of a marker, it fits conveniently in your pocket 5.3” (134 millimeter); 1.64 ounce (46.9 gram)Removable poc...
16. Weller WES51 Analog Soldering Station
Receptacle For Easy Iron ReplacementDesigned For Continuous Production SolderingSlim, Comfortable Pencil With Eta Tip Reduces Operator FatigueTip Temperature Offset CapabilityAllows User To Reset Station Temperature To Match In Tip Sizes & StylesStation Includes Power Unit, Soldering Pencil, Stand a...
17. Gerber 7-in-1 Airline-Safe Stainless Steel Shard Solid State Keychain Tool with Titanium Nitride Coating - Black (22-01769)
Includes a small flat driver, medium flat driver, cross driver, pry bar, and additional toolsThis compact 2.75 inch tool is lightweight enough to fit on your keychainThe Shard is made of stainless steel with a titanium nitrate coating that protects from corrosionThis edc gear has served with deploye...
18. Kasa Smart Plug by TP-Link, Smart Home WiFi Outlet works with Alexa, Echo, Google Home & IFTTT, No Hub Required, Remote Control, 15 Amp, UL Certified, 1-Pack (HS100)
Control From Anywhere: Turn electronics on or off from anywhere with your smartphone using the Kasa app (Compatible w/ Android & iOS)Voice control works with amazon Alexa, Google Assistant and Microsoft Cortana supported devices for a hands free experience; Operating temperature: 0 ºC to 40 ºC (32...
19. Streamlight MicroStream Ultra-compact Aluminum body with AAA alkaline battery, 3.5 Inch - 1.04 oz - 45 Lumens - 66318, Black
Type II MIL-SPEC abrasion and corrosion-resistant anodized aircraft aluminum construction with unbreakable, scratch-resistant polycarbonate lens.
20. ThruNite Neutron 2C V3 Rechargeable LED Micro-USB Flashlight, 1100 Lumen with CREE XP-L LED, Turbo, Strobe Light and self-Defined Modes - NW
Newly Released Bright Flashlight - Neutron 2C V3 max output of 1100 lumen with CREE XP-L LED, 1100 lumen (max) provides bright light over beam distance of 262 yards.Infinite Brightness Adjusting - Neutron 2C V3 adjust the output by long press the switch to circle through infinity high and infinity l...
Honestly unless you're
No amount of scrubbing at your asshole with dry paper is going to get it super clean.
After an hour or so of just moving around/body heat/sweat/etc, anyone who goes down on you WILL get some butt B.O.
People really should plunk down the $35 for a bidet and stop shitting like barbarians.
If you spill salsa on shag carpeting, do you scrub at it with paper towels or do you get some kind of water in the mix?
For real though, bidets are the truth and seriously neither expensive nor hard to install.
I’m sitting on mine right now after taking a heavenly coffee poop and am reveling in my clean butthole.
If you want to live like a caveman smearing your feces further with an elevated soft paper towel, be my guest though.
Edit: Best wishes, Q. May you grab your nuts at many refs in your next chapter.
Edit 2: here’s a model similar to the one I have:
Luxe Bidet Neo 120 - Self Cleaning Nozzle - Fresh Water Non-Electric Mechanical Bidet Toilet Attachment (blue and white) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A0RHSJO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_GaF4BbHZXSN67
I may your buttholes ever be clean!
Fucking love my bidet. Cheap and easy to get, and I don't wanna poop anywhere else.
Also you used the wrong comparison operator. That means toilet paper is the best
Edit: for reference people.. What I use is something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Luxe-MB110-Non-Electric-Mechanical-Attachment/dp/B001KKRCFA
Cheap.. Cheaper than the toilet paper you waste, you have a fresh just showered bum. And it really is amazing. Seems like everybody is skeptical at first, including me. I guess in the US were taught that paper makes your ass no longer smell like shit. That isn't the case, can confirm.
Edit 2: btw my SO loves it for after sex, it hits the vagina real good and clean it up then too, if you aim it towards there. So less dripping for hours after sex
A bidet. Seriously, go try one. Changed my life. Bought an attachment soon after for my toilet and now have a squeaky clean bunghole 24/7.
*Here is the one I use, since people were asking for an example.
Amazon's current bestseller is similar to the one I got, and is going for $25 here.
They are super easy to install and you will never feel cleaner after taking a shit.
Get a bidet, dude.
It changed my life. No ass rashes!
Best purchase ever.
Even if I don't reach the top, I'm helping every single Redditor obtain a clean ass is a 5 minute installation by buying this over 300 person reviewed, 5 star, $53 fucking dollar toilet bidet attachment.
Please upvote for a collective clean-ass Reddit!
edit: sorry, for raw link.
If you can turn a wrench and tape some threads, a bidet will change your life. Never again will you make a thousand smearing wipes that still result in skidmarks. You just pat dry and walk away clean.
The only problem is that you'll never want to poop away from home again.
It's real lmao
It's cheap and easy to install and the guy who converted me to the way of the bidet recommended it to me.
Install a bidet. They are $24 on Amazon. Fuck fabric, only use it to dry your clean ass.
Edit: For your health
Here is a mechanical one, you could easily have someone modify the knob to be a lever you could manipulate.
Here's the link to the Amazon page these reviews are on!
According to camelcamelcamel, it sells for between $853 and $1400: Link
Don't forget the energy costs of manufacture and transportation. It takes 17.3 terawatts of energy to manufacture and transport toilet paper per year. That's a huge carbon footprint.
If you're concerned about the ecological impact of TP, I highly recommend a bidet attachment for your toilet like this:
You will use significantly less toilet paper, maybe even eschewing it entirely.
Every person I have ever given a Gerber Shard to (male and female), has thanked me time and again for it. At 5.99 it's the most functional multi tool for the money, it's nearly unbreakable, and it will last a long time unless they lose it.
You could get a water Bob and be able to drink tub water. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001AXLUX2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_dkYLBb0JHR9C7
$35 on Amazon and it took me like 20 minutes to install.
That looks like Belden 1855A cable. That connector is a Neutrik rearTWIST UHD BNC connector, which means it's part number NBNC75BDD6X with the BST-BNC-6 blue boot (it comes with black boots.) The crimp die for this connector is the Neutrik DIE-R-BNCX-PDG which fits the Neutrik HX-R-BNC, the Knipex 97 43 200, or the Rennsteig PEW12 (all the same crimper.)
The Paladin/Greenlee CrimpAll PA8000 with the PA2699 crimp die will also work.
You will also need a coax stripper, I like the Greenlee CST Pro. For this cable, you will need the orange blade cartridge.
A small side cutter is also nice to trim the center conductor and any stray braid wires. My favorite is the Hakko Micro Cutter.
To my American brothers and sisters if you got shit on your arm would you wipe it off or clean it with water and wipe it?
I'm a American and I bought a bidet on Amazon after using it at a friends house. In American men want to seem masculine and they wanna seem not "gay". Most American men then see water going up your ass as gay or weird. They also don't understand how it could be cleaner.
I'm a guy who owns a bidet.
Astor Non-Electric Mechanical Bidet Toilet
Buy this for 24 bucks and you'll never go back plus it takes us a year to use a big package of toilet paper now.
Here is the one I got, its powered by water pressure and because of that there is no electricity and they last a really long time. Astor Bidet Fresh Water Spray Non-Electric Mechanical Bidet Toilet Seat Attachment CB-1000 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TPGPUW/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_rwh8ybK95BNM3
You can get a simple bidet on amazon that works on water pressure alone for about $30-40 here
It's like being kissed by an angel after eating cool mint 5gum
It's window plastic. Used for older windows to insulatate. Keeps warm air in and cold drafts out
Buy a waterbob liner. https://www.amazon.com/WaterBOB-Emergency-Drinking-Storage-Gallons/dp/B001AXLUX2
My dude, you can get them For $35 nowadays.
Best $40 I've ever spent.
I hope you have $10,000 just lying around.
So your whetstone isn't going to actually sharpen much of anything. The grit is way too coarse to actually get an edge. It's good for repairing a chipped edge and such or reprofiling a knife if you want to change the blade angle. Then you need something finer to finish the job and get it actually sharp.
This is the stone I use. It does a pretty good job. Although the one I got was pretty far off of being flat and I had to flatten it. It's probably not a common issue since the reviews didn't mention it.
For some reason, they look blue, whereas glass that blocks blue would look yellow-orange. Like these ones, that block almost all blue (probably going a bit too far).
for the curious
This is what I've got. Comes with a T connector to put in line with the toilet water line.
I have one of these. Like 10 minutes to attach it to your toilet and it's smooth sailing!
There is only one real review which says it's basically not even functional and was created only as a display item to demonstrate the various tools in their catalog.
idk if it's one of the better ones, but this is the one I have, and it works great:
There's also a cheaper ($35) version that looks to be almost the same (I can't remember now why I got the $50 one):
I actually bought it a few years back after I saw it linked in a random Reddit thread. Definitely the best thing Reddit has done for my life.
I have a Weller WES51 Analog Soldering Station, and I highly recommend it for just about any kind of work. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000BRC2XU/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1518809457&amp;sr=8-3&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=weller+wes51&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41WVs6AdNqL&amp;ref=plSrch
The slightly more expensive digital version doesn’t solder any better, it just has buttons and a display instead of an adjustment knob.
If you’re working on tiny components, then you’ll just need to buy a few smaller tips, but there are plenty of sizes and shapes out there for Weller irons. I’ve always just bought cheaper knockoff tips, like the ones where you can get a variety pack of 10 for ~$30 on amazon. I don’t think tips are really worth spending a premium for the Weller brand, unlike the iron itself. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00VFYPKN2/ref=mp_s_a_1_fkmr2_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1518809384&amp;sr=8-2-fkmr2&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=weller+replacement+tip+set+wes51
I’d also recommend a good vise or workstation to hold things steady, because there’s nothing worse than trying to use crappy little helping hands or just solder on a bench top. I use a Panavise like this, just as an idea, but there are probably some decent cheaper options out there: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00011QA0M/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1518809613&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=panavise+350&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41smUr9QAlL&amp;ref=plSrch
Yes. One of the attachment ones, not a separate unit.
I have one on each of the toilets in my home. They're only $35 people!
They sell the add-on to turn your toilet into one of those at Amazon.com.
Get a bidet. Changed my life. https://www.amazon.com/Luxe-Bidet-Neo-120-Non-Electric/dp/B00A0RHSJO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1536781811&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=bidet
Before we moved in, I hired a forensic cleaning company to completely clean sanitize the whole house. (Well, except for the basement.) Being able to move into a perfectly clean house where I didn't have to worry about my then-infant daughter touching something nasty was a huge help.
Installing bidets on the toilets in the house was a big hygiene improvement, especially for my daughter.
Epoxy coating the garage floor has saved tons of time in spill cleanups.
here's one for $27
Wish I could join in but I don't have enough comment karma..
EDIT: Just in case I'm at work and actually get enough karma!
Don't use those things regularly, they dry out the skin and make things worse in the long run. Also don't flush them despite the labeling, they don't break up that easily and can clog your plumbing. Speaking from personal experience on both points :|
Instead buy a cheap bidet attachment for your toilet. I have this one and it took about 15 minutes to install.
Live your dream.
Luxe Bidet Neo 120 - Self Cleaning Nozzle - Fresh Water Non-Electric Mechanical Bidet Toilet Attachment (blue and white) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A0RHSJO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apap_cqd9zyM2CgOVU
(Had to repost this because I used link shorteners to stay under char limit and it got auto-deleted, so this one is finally fixed)
I'm a native New Yorker, and I'll chime in as someone who was able to buy a place in NYC (brooklyn) before turning 30. Now, the prices have exploded in my area since I bought (2010), but there are other areas that are still in the "reasonable" range.
I was by no means rich. I'm not rich, but I technically own property that has appreciated so I "have" money on paper. I can't spend that money. I am the type of person subbed to r/frugal, /r/personalfinance, and /r/churning. I grew up somewhat poor, and I think that has shaped my complete fear of going broke. For some, it may also fuel the desire to buy nice things. You have to be careful with that second one. I pay off my credit cards every month, but I also take advantage of any "no interest for 12 months" type deals on a Best Buy store card when I need a big purchase. I'm going to talk about buying, and then I'm going to talk about what I generally do financially.
"Avocado toast" really seems to be an example of a bigger underlying problem, which is that people have too many things that they spend too much money on. $14 for avocado on toast is obscene given how cheap it would be to make it yourself. And yes, I understand that they restaurant pays the rent, the servers, etc, but the point is that avocado toast and expensive coffee shouldn't really be a regular luxury. The thing is, how many other places are you basically throwing away excess money, like GrubHub and bars?
I'm not saying don't have fun. I'm saying that you should meter that stuff a bit. If you have the funds and you want to buy a Nintendo Switch, go ahead. That's a one time cost for the system, and it provides ongoing fun. But that's gotta be your thing. Your thing can't be bars AND dining out AND traveling AND expensive jeans AND tattoos AND...
Here are my personal tips for finance that may make life a bit easier. This may not lead to you buying a place, but it can lead to you getting some financial freedom. It's the same theory when it came to packing a ruck: ounces make pounds. In this case that extra money you save (or spend) adds up over time.
First off you need to plan.
I like Quicken. I used to love MS Money more, but that's gone and mint wasn't doing it for me at the time and I haven't tried it since. Don't get the new version every year. Maybe every 4 years IF you feel the new features will help you.
Quicken works best if you have steady income, but if you have income that fluctuates due to hours or tips, you should just estimate a basic income that you typically get and you can always adjust upward for actual. Better to underestimate income. So now you have an estimate of money in.
Now, you need to take control of your bills and calculate money out. Personally, I pay most of my bills weekly so they can't sneak up on me. For example, I went to the electric company website and looked at my bills for the past year, added that up, and divided by 52. That's my weekly average energy spend. It goes up in summer and down in winter. Then, for one bill I paid it off, and then the following week, I had my bank start automatic payments of that weekly amount. This does three things. First, the bills don't surprise me all at once. Second, should anything happen, I'm a month ahead of my bills, so I have some time to think. Third, with the payments going automatically, I don't have to waste time paying bills or trying to figure out what needs to be paid. And your bank send it, so you can't forget, they track it, and you don't need a stamp (if you mail it to someone).
Remember that thing I mentioned about "12 months no interest" on a store card. Don't wait 12 months and get screwed. Again, take the amount, divide by 50, send that much to the card each week for 52 weeks. So if you need a new laptop, and it's going to cost $1,300, that might really hurt your budget. However, at $25 a week, it becomes easy to manage. That's like not eating out once.
I pay for everything possible with a credit card. I could try to figure out a budget, but I'm lazy, and my spending can go all over the place. However, with the card, I just estimate what I usually spend each week and have the bank auto-pay that. This also makes it easy to track the real money in my checking account in Quicken because the output is stabilized. Just like with the other bills. Also, I get cool points and stuff that I will later use for travel or whatever, and I pay no interest.
So, in Quicken, with your general income and spending put in, you can see what your money is doing over time. And you can see if your lifestyle is going to slowly drive you to being broke. When I first got my place and needed a roommate, the area sucked. However, I could see in quicken what the minimum that I needed to charge was in order for me to not go broke. My roommate paid less than a third of the total costs were, but I was at least financially stable for the time being. Now that the area is better, it's closer to them paying half.
So let's say that you're one of the lucky people that have excess money when you look at your plan. Don't plan how to spend it. I recommend opening another bank account, setting up a regular automatic transfer, and then acting like the money isn't there.
I started doing this when I was in the military and used to get blindsided by holiday shopping. I figured out that if I could put $25 a month into another account, I would have $300 at the end of the year for gifts. That's a big chunk of money when you're semi-broke and it hits you all at once. So having that in reserve was useful.
Again, using quicken, you can see what you can put aside without completely depleting your checking account.
Also, any pay raise you get, just don't increase your standard of living, and set that money aside. It will be a great emergency fund.
I was STUPID when I got out of the military. I lived in a place that was furnished when I was in, so when I got out and had money, I bought some nice furniture. I think I blew around $8K thanks to Raymour & Flanigan. It was basically Afghanistan deployment money. I bought a nice table, chairs, a mattress and some other stuff, all for way too much.
You know where you can also get some nice stuff? Craigslist, which is where I'm currently trying to sell that nice table for a lot less than I bought it for. $200 Ikea bed frames in very good condition are going for $50. $150 for a solid table and 4 chairs that someone else paid 800 for, and they may be in great condition.
Unless there is no way to get it cheaper, I don't by anything that's not on sale, and even then it's usually what I need.
There are some places where you usually don't want to go cheap, like shoes or a mattress, or tires if you own a car.
Buy things that will last but you don't need to do it all at once. You can always upgrade stuff later, but just make sure that you don't spend a lot on the placeholder stuff.
We all need food. And we all feel like there's no time. Cooking is not that hard. Yeah, you may screw up a recipe at first, but you will get better. Most meals you can make in 30 minutes, and if you want to get really efficient, you can do things like taking a day for weekly meal prep (I don't. I should but I haven't really gotten to it).
You can cook scrambled eggs like Gordon Ramsey in under 5 minutes. Your cost: 40 cents. The cost of a ham, egg, and cheese sandwich is maybe $1.25 if you do it yourself.
Buy cookbooks geared toward simplicity.
This was my first cookbook: Cooking Outside the Pizza Box. For many of us, it's aptly named. Other ones that I have and would recommend: Healthy Cooking for Two (or Just You) and Easy Menus for Dining In.
If you want to be really cheap, just go to http://allrecipes.com/ or some similar website.
I also invested in a good chef's knife (over $100), but a mediocre one for $30 will be okay, just realize that you will need to sharpen it a little more frequently (like every 3 months), so maybe invest in a whetstone and learn a skill. Sharp knives make cutting so much easier.. A dull knife means you use more force, and are more likely to cut yourself if it slips.
Most of your meals you can make for a fraction of the cost that you pay for it outside. Coffee is the easiest. Yes a coffee maker is pricey, but if you get one that has something like an automatic function, you can get one that you can set up to make you coffee in the morning so you can save time on your prep.
Something like this and a thermos will be invaluable.
Hanging out with friends
I like to be social. Unfortunately, there are few places in NYC that you can hang out, and most of them serve food and drinks, and it's going to cost you. Bars are just convenient. Also, you can meet new people there.
However, if you or a friend have a nice space, maybe try hosting gatherings. You could even do a potluck. The drinks are cheaper, people can bring food, and if it's your place, when the night ends everyone leaves and you're right next to your bed.
Get yourself a bidet. Solves the I've-used-so-much-paper-I'm-bleeding thing.
Here you go You and your asshole are welcome. Its the easiest thing to install and take apart when moving...
36 bucks. Amazon. Changed my life, and i'm a hairy dude. Spray it down, drip dry while reading reddit or use TP to dry it and get anything left and we're done.
Edit: Shit, if money is that tight for you and it'll make that big of a difference in your quality of life, i'll buy the fucking thing for you.
Get a bidet best $40 purchase ever.
Just goes on under the toilet seat and you hook it up to your water. Pretty simple. This is the one I own and it's fantastic 10/10 clean butt hole.
Buy a bidet attachment for your toilet. Then you can do it while sitting down.
Astor Bidet Fresh Water Spray Non-Electric Mechanical Bidet Toilet Seat Attachment CB-1000 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TPGPUW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_KzbfAbV3E6H1T
It will absolutely help.
You can wiggle your butt around and get it pretty much everywhere. I don't usually hose down my cheeks, but the whole crevasse can get a thorough scouring.
source: GF diet, with lots of spicy greasy food = Usually a 5-7 on the birstol stool chart. https://www.continence.org.au/pages/bristol-stool-chart.html
Just buy this: https://smile.amazon.com/Astor-Non-Electric-Mechanical-Attachment-CB-1000/dp/B003TPGPUW/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1496433804&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=toilet+seat+bidet
It'll pay for itself in toilet paper in six months or less, and you'll be able to get by with the shittiest, cheapest, thinnest toilet paper on earth and it won't matter because you're only using it to blot clean water off your tradesman's entrance.
Do it up real nice for some quality poop time. Get a
$40washlet/bidet kit from Amazon, a squatty potty, poo~pourri...hell, spring for some ambient string lights and a little zen water fountain.
Happy Black Friday, the Luxe Bidet is $25 today.
Get a decent Japanese knife, and sharpen it often using one of [these] (http://www.amazon.com/King-Sided-Sharpening-Stone-Base/dp/B001DT1X9O).
Source: I have a few of them.
Edit: I should add that the knife in the link is carbon steel, which means it will rust very quickly if not properly taken care of, especially when cutting any acidic vegetables. Not wiping the knife after cutting a lemon will make it rust in a few minutes. Of course it can all be fixed with one of these, a necessity if you own a carbon steel knife.
This one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003TPGPUW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
It attaches to your toilet and taps into the same water line. Took me about 10 minutes to install with no plumbing experience.
Greetings from /r/flashlight. I maintain an arbitrary list of popular lights that may be of interest.
You'll probably want something using the 18650 battery and onboard charging like the Thrunite Neutron 2C. I'd recommend the neutral white version of it.
Do not charge Li-ion batteries in freezing temperatures. You can use them, and there are even some 18650 cells designed to have better performance in the cold, but it is dangerous to attempt charging without first warming the battery above freezing.
Obviously this knife.
Bidets are God's gift to man. The non-electric ones are pretty cheap too.
TP-Link Smart Plug, No Hub Required, Wi-Fi, Control your Devices from Anywhere, Works with Alexa (HS100) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0178IC734/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_NAVNzbBDA1YT5
There was one verified review:
> I purchase this knife on Amazon. When the knife arrived I opened the package . Most of the blades were in the open position. I thought "This is a cool knife" . I closed the knife blades and was shocked to discover that a couple of the blades were longer then the body of the knife and stuck out precariously ready to slice open any finger or body part that dare come within striking distance. What is worse is that the sharp edge of the knife blade sticks right up against a metal bolster that is in perfect position to put a large knick right in the blade. I called Wenger and asked if this was the way that they intended to make the knife or if it was a defect in which the assembler possibly put the blades in the wrong channel . I was told that this knife was a "display piece" and was never intended to be functional. Well that is all well and good but then please inform the buyer as to this fact and don't produce a marketing video that shows the many uses of the knife. I purchased this knife as a gift for a collector friend and I realize that 99% of collector knives will be locked away in a safe and never used but the difference is, a quality custom OR production tool is at least functional. That is the beauty of a tool. Wenger should be ashamed of ever letting this worthless piece of dangerous scrap metal ever leave the factory. Anyone involved in this project should be fired. The cheapest far East knife factory would never let something like this leave the door. And this is Swiss made? . I have to cringe at the thought of a product liability Attorney flashing pictures of this "Closed" knife after it slices off somebodies finger. Needless to say I sent it back to Amazon WITH A WARNING
They are super nice. I just bought a cheep one a year ago and i'm SOOOO glad I did.
But yes, you want TP after you bidet, but just like 2 squares to dry.... But if you dont have any tp, it's just slightly annoying to have a completely clean but slightly damp tush. Annoying vs unlivable.
If you're curious This is the one I suggest. It's $35. I did a lot of research and this one is well reviewed for the price. Installation is about 10 min, you have to unscrew the hose for the toilet, screw it back on, then take of the toilet seat, and put it back on. $35 is throw away money for most people. And you'll save loads on TP so it'll pay for it's self easy. And of course if you ever get the burning shits, you'll be blessing my name.
Seriously, just do it.
Yeah any D3 would be fine, it might be better if it's already immersed in oil though (drops in oil, or gelcaps). That's true of any fat soluble though.
Anxiety begone = Taurine, Inositol, Theanine, and also potentially even aniracetam halps... actually ZMA would help too (magnesium at least, and zinc for depression). For your budget is that including ZMA/Vit D and all that crap? I'm going to pretend like it isn't... lulz
I know you are worried about high cortisol, and I recently just developed a science-boner for Phosphatidylserine again, but it's expensive... I'm gonna add it to my stack and see if it helps with gains, wanna also be a guinea pig for it?
Supps to buy:
Beta-Alanine 500g $22 (1.4g/day)
Creatine 1000g $13 (2.8g/day, I know it's "low dosing it" but it should be more than enough if you're eating the meats)
Inositol 400g $20
Theanine 40g $14
Choline Citrate 500g $13
ALCAR 500g $15
MSM 500g $11 (this is because you're an achy old man, lulz)
Taurine 1000g $14
Expensive but awesome (especially for cortisol and potentially for sleep too, also helps with exercise/fatigue and might be an ergogenic):
Phosphatidylserine 50g $28
Total cost: $150... If you want to crush the shit out of your anxiety you can buy 1000g instead of 400g of Inositol and your total cost runs to $170, but I don't think it'll be necessary... unless your anxiety is getting really bad. But on the other hand it might halp with your gainz too (I have a currently unsubstantiated theory that Inositol is good pre-workout because of it's serotonin regulating actions, and it's also synergistic with choline).
Pre-workout (15-45 minutes before):
All the Beta-Alanine, Creatine, Choline, ALCAR, MSM, half the Phosphatidylserine (25g), half the Theanine (20g), half the Taurine (500g)... If you buy the 1000g of Inositol also use half the Inositol here too (500g)
Total = 3545g, or about 10g/day (4045g with Inositol or about 11g/day)
Taurine + Beta-Alanine together actually helps prevent the Beta-Alanine tingles you don't like so much too. They are absorbed at the same site, but co-administration doesn't prevent Beta-Alanine absorption... so I think it might act to slow it's absorption to manageable levels, sorta like fiber for protein (stopping protein farts)
Pre-sleep (30-60 minutes before):
Half the Taurine, half the PS (25g), half the theanine (20g), all the Inositol (or 500g if you buy 1000g)
Total: 945g/day or 2.5g/half a teaspoon (1045g/day with more Inositol, or 2.85g/day)
To mix the supps: Get a big container, throw everything in, and shake the ever loving shit out of it. I'd suggest you shake the container every single time you add in a new supp to the batch. Maybe also throw it in a blender or something for an even distribution before hand. Also shake the ever loving shit out of it every time you want to take a scoop of it too. It'll be a nice pre-workout warm up, lol. If you want to run the batch through a strainer that also wouldn't be a bad idea by any means.
Oh also I'd like to add all these supps mixed together don't actually taste that awful. Slightly fishy/vinegary smell, but can't tell too much in water... a little bit sour
Vit D $10 (you already know this, but 4000IU/d on days you don't get sunlight, 2000IU/d during the summer). Take dat shit earlier in the morning. Also silvy's coupon code for dat commission OFU651. It works out to $8 shipped or something like that if you use it. But I'd also recommend buying it for the rest of the family and scaling dosages based on body weight (30-50IU/kg is completely safe year round, and kids actually need a decent amount because their skeletons are still developing and all that)
ZMA*4 $40 (take 2/day, one during breakfast, one pre-bed)... although if you're cheap you could just take 1/day and that'd also be perfectly legit. I'd have 2/day personally if you're eating lots of dairy (need more mag) and grainz (need more zinc). So $20 or $40, but 1/day is perfectly fine.
Just buy the damn glasses $8, you can also get a pair for your wife and the little guy so you won't be the only weirdo in the house. It's also a one time expense, so it's not substantial. Wear them at least hour or so before bed and leave them next to your bed for whenever you need to get up during the night to pee or whatever (but you won't with the sleep stack, it'll knock you the fuck out).
Proper melatonin regulation = say goodbye to dat breast cancer and various other illnesses associated with shift work sleep disorder. Everyone has a mild case even if they work days because of screwed up light schedules. Also don't forget to turn the lights on in your room first thing in the morning and open your blinds. Also dat flux.
Oh, if you wanna add something pre-workout (I don't know if it would stop the gainz at all but it'd definitely be great for fat loss) and a very mild stimulant that's probably fairly healthy but tastes like plastic on it's own (but smells great!); then buy some of this guy for $10 and throw it all into your pre-workout. It'd also help you tell whether or not the powder is evenly, and it's right around the standard dosage (137mg instead of 100mg, but whatevs). I'd actually serious recommend adding this because you're trying to cut.
Before you ask, yes I did spend like half an hour writing this, totes worth it. Every time I do a kb swing I think of you, and every time I almost break my arm foolishly attempting 1 armed barbell snatches I think of svunt... It's like me and you with Vitamin D. Good luck, you beautiful man =D
Edit: To everyone else reading this, if there are things you would like to add/change because you can afford it.
Here is what I would recommend:
Switch the 500g of Choline Citrate to 150g of Alpha-GPC (or buy in bulk for 3 years) ($65 or $140 for 3 years)
Switch the 500g ALCAR to 200g LCLT and 300g GPLC $26 and $50)
Add in Citrulline to the preworkout, 2250g ($135)
You can also easily add another 1000g of Creatine and 500g of Beta-Alanine as well.
But all those changes adds a huge amount of cost to the supps. If I'd had to order the cost:effectiveness ratio of the additions I'd say Creatine>Beta-Alanine>Alpha-GPC>Carnitines>Citrulline
Then returned with two hookers and a cooler full of beer.
But my personal favorite:
> Received this knife as a gift for my 18th birthday. Wish I'd have known what it was because as soon as I touched it, I grew a mustache and became a Navy Seal. Mom fainted and my dad laughed and handed me a beer. I was born a girl.
>Minus 2 stars because my breasts were really nice.
This is basically a plastic film that you put over your window wells with double sided tape.. then you use a hair dryer to shrink/tighten it...
I've used them during Winters in DC and they've made a big difference..
The friends who were with me on vacation when it happened quickly ordered a bidet so none of us had to deal with becoming much better friends than we ever wanted to.
Skip all of that baby wipes nonsense and join the bidet masterrace. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A0RHSJO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Here's a link for the one and only actually verified purchase review and the guy actually gives a good reason to give it only a 1 star out of 5.
Turns out some of the knives are too long to actually be closed and you can't actually close each knife. I would also be pretty pissed. If something is so expensive, they might as well make it possible to completely close the thing.
I've started to get into electronics myself, and I can say that soldering is easy, but you need the right tools for the job.
You'll need an adjustable temperature soldering iron and 1/2 milimeter iron/lead solder as the bare minimum.
I suggest grabbing some tip tinner, solder wick & vacuum, and some cheap boards to practice soldering.
This video shows how to do the actual soldering, while this video covers the tools you'll need and explains their use. These videos are made by EEV Blog and explain soldering in GREAT detail, which is how I learned to do it.
As far as making actual circuits, you have to have an idea AND parts to fulfill your idea. The Arduino UNO is a great way to program and test circuits. It's essentially a small comptuer designed to repeat whatver task you give it over and over. Alternatively, there's the Raspberry Pi, which comes in a few different models. The difference between the Pi and the Arduino is that the Pi is essentially a mini computer. You can literally hook it up to a monitor via hdmi and slam an operating system into it.
Both boards typically come in kits like this one for the Ardunio, or this one for the Raspberry Pi. The Ardunio kits with come with a lot of peripherals, like sensors and LEDs that actually do things, while you'll have to invest more with a Raspberry Pi. These kits come with detailed instructions, code you can copy and paste, and are a great way to learn how circuitry works, and is exactly what I'm doing right now. I'm no expert by any stretch of the imagination, I've just done a decent amount of research to find out what's what.
There are two ways to hook up circuits - temporarily and (somewhat) permanently. Breadboards are used to prototype circuits without having to solder anything, typically using these wires to link different parts of the circuits together. Soldering components to those green boards I linked earlier is what you'd do when you have your circuit up and running and want to move it to something more permanent. I say "more" permanent because you can usually de-solder stuff if you needed a component for something.
Adafruit has a decently sized library of projects you can try. They often sell stuff in kits where you get everything you need to make something -- for example, this DIY MIDI controller.
Sparkfun has a great series of articles that explain the very basics of circuits and electricity
Hopefully I've explained everything enough so that you can venture off on your own. Feel free to ask questions!
Der Klassiker. Auch super im US Amazon.
You can get orange glasses that block out blue light for $8 on Amazon. They look goofy, but they'll do the job that f.lux does.
Try a bidet attachment for your existing toilet.
No dude wipe fatbergs. No blowout. I don't remember the last time I had to buy toilet paper.
Things to discuss:
Get a bidet!
Luxe Bidet Neo 120 - Self Cleaning Nozzle - Fresh Water Non-Electric Mechanical Bidet Toilet Attachment (blue and white) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A0RHSJO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_hzPcBb5V6VRBK
Everyone on this subreddit, go on Amazon and get yourselves a bidet! Less than $30 to access that cooling booty relief, it’s also a major toilet paper money saver. This is the one I have, godspeed y’alls’ buttholes.
Bidet is under $30. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003TPGPUW/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1419025895&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX200_QL40
Nah man. THIS is a relief.
I think you would be happier and more comfortable with something like a Wowtac A2s in that price range.
I spent nearly 20 years as a cook-then-sous-then-exec in fine dining kitchens. I've bought cheap knives, and I've bought expensive knives. I finally found my sweet spot split between Misono Swedish Carbon and Misono UX10s. I have a few different styles of knives in each, and they each have their ups and downs. The downside to either of those is that they're not exactly cheap (but you can spend way more if you're so inclined).
On the cheap side of things, this series of knives form Victorinox is probably the best value out there. For a home cook, these are absolutely bifl, but they're not exactly sexy.
My recommendation when anyone asks me a question like this is to go for the Mac Professional Series. They're fancy enough to be a little special, but not so special that you're afraid to use them. Full disclosure, I still use a Chef Series Mac 5.5" utility knife. In a professional kitchen, your utility knife gets so much more use than you'd imagine, so having a cheap one without the bolster is nice in case someone drops it in the fryer and kills the temper, or kicks it under the dish station etc. For home, I'd get the nice (pro series) version.
Anyway, for a first investment in nice knives, I'd go for an 8" chef's knife, dimples or not, it makes no real difference, and a 5.5" utility knife. The second addition would be 10-12" carving knife. Of course, a serrated bread knife and a small paring knife are necessary, but that's where those Victorinox knives I linked above are perfect.
I'm sure the bifl crowd here will crucify me for recommending stainless, but unless you're using your knives every day for hours a day, it's way too easy to get lazy and you end up with pitting and rust on all those fancy carbon knives, and that makes you less likely to use them.
For sharpening, get a 1000/6000 grit whetstone. When I was cheffing for a living, I hit the 6000 every day, and the 1000 once a week. Now, I cook dinner maybe 4 times a week, and I hit the 6000 once a month, and the 1000 like once or twice a year. Keeping the knives in cases helps with this. Drawers will kill the edge. Youtube has plenty of tutorials on how to use a whetstone and keep everything straight.
As far as "sharpening" steels go, it's nice having one around if you're doing a ton of knife work and need a quick touch up, but slapping a knife on a steel is not the same as sharpening it, and if you let the edge get truly dull (by hitting the steel instead of sharpening it), you'll have a bear of a time getting the edge true again.
Anyway, if you buy something made by an ancient Japanese craftsman who's older than the volcano he forges in, sure, it'll be cool and have fancy wavy lines. If you buy garbage it'll be garbage. Whatever you do, just know that nothing screams recent culinary school graduate than a Shun santoku.
note: I've written "you" a bunch in here. It's less pretentious than saying "one may sharpen..." and less clumsy than referring to your partner at all times . I hope you'll forgive me.
edit: tl;dr get the Macs
For the joke to work you need to see the product, here
Ok so here is the breakdown of what I am doing and a couple more photos of the UI and videos of it in action.
Here is the
ui-lovelace.yamlfiles on Github.
The main components that are currently being used on the front end are:
I intend for the UI to be displayed on a few Fire HD8 tablets. One that will be centrally located on the main floor of the house. Two others will be used as nightstand clocks in the master bedroom.
At a high level, all I have done is drawn the floor plan and layouts in Sketch and exported individual assets as pngs and position them within a
picture-elementscard mostly utilizing
state_image. I would basically just plop down the button or icon or whatever with
style: "top":50% "left":50%. Once the asset was in the UI I would inspect it via Chrome's dev tools inspector and select the parent container that the
stylewas being set on. I would then manually adjust the
leftpercentages until I was satisfied. I would then update
ui-lovelace.yamlto include the new values and double check them in the browser.
For the buttons, currently the button background and button text are baked into the image but I intend to change that soon. Basically the indicator light is actually the same size as the whole button its just 95% of it is transparent.
Here are some screen caps (since i just posted photos from my phone last night)
Here are a couple videos of it in action:
Thats all I can think of for now to answer the basics... I am more than happy to go deeper into anything anyone has any questions about
Consider a bidet. I got an inexpensive (~$45) bidet that bolts onto the toilet, never looked back, (heheh, get it?)
Oh, ok! One of the easiest ways to winterize drafty windows is to get the plastic shrink-wrap stuff at a hardware store, something like this.
I use the thin film plastic window insulation kits every winter, I love them. They are great because the seal out all the tiny cracks in old windows and create a psuedo-double pane window. I would start there because they are much cheaper than curtains.
Is it just called "winter window plastic?" (Just want to check before I go looking for it. Last time I asked for anything specific, I had to go through a couple of alternate names AND describe the item before they figured out what I was talking about).
EDIT! A post below linked the stuff. Oh derp is me. Link courtesy of /u/DrewFlan
I've never liked the look of these but the second year in our RV I finally decided to plastic the windows. We went through the blankets and blinds and what not which helped. Once I sealed them up though, it was a huge difference in draft. It's cheap and easy to do. Get them at walmart, lowes etc.. I'm telling you, night and day difference.
This is unlikely to be possible. There are basically only two places to buy them, and neither source is likely to arrive within 4 days. Mountain Electronics is located in the US, but it usually takes him a day or two to process an order and then you're waiting for the postal service after that. The manufacturer, Intl-outdoor, is the other source, and shipping is usually a few weeks.
Consider grabbing a Sofirn SP36 with Prime shipping, instead. It's a little larger but has a lot of the same features and capabilities.
I got a bidet. Changed my life, no exaggeration. Wipe first for the big stuff, then use bidet fully, then wipe again one time to get the water off. My toilet paper usage is way down, and my butthole is never agitated and sore.
I also take soluble fiber pills to make it be normal coming out. It's no big deal to me like it is to you. Taking 3-6 of them a day is way easier than trying to incorporate some traditional food into my diet. The fact that it's soluble is fine. There is a definite difference in the solidness due to the fiber pills.
Edit: added a link to the bidet I got.
OMG, only $35, though I recommend the $48 upgrade if you're a lady.
The hype is all true, IT WILL CHANGE YOUR LIFE
Everyone should have a bidet in their home. They're not all that expensive either unless you go with a high end Japanese model. I think I spent $25 on mine which has lasted 5 years so far, and is the best quick fix for summer swamp ass.
Edit: added amazon link to the bidet I have
These are the things I bought. You could get by without some of the wire cutting tools. The crimper is kinda necessary, and I'd definitely buy the molex hand tool for pushing the wire into the SATA connector. Much easier than using a screwdriver.
16 AWG Guage Wire
Wire Stripper (you can get by without this)
Flush Cutter (probably not necessary but nice to have)
SATA Power Connector
SATA Passthrough Cap
SATA Terminal/End-of-Line Cap
Molex Hand Tool <-- buy the real thing, mimics on Amazon aren't as good
ATX Header Pins (these are 18 AWG which are a little small for 16 AWG gauge wire)
ATX Header Housing
Yeah, some things just aren't worth it haha
I would highly recommend these ones: https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-CHP-170-Micro-Cutter/dp/B00FZPDG1K
If you cut anything really strong or oddly shaped you can dull them pretty easily, but otherwise they cut really clean and easily and they're super sharp. I have pick up a bunch of these, mine are almost too dull to use now :(
> Water blob
LOL. Here's a link to a WaterBOB https://amazon.com/WaterBOB-Emergency-Drinking-Storage-Gallons/dp/B001AXLUX2
Just buy a bidet
They all kind of work the same, but this is the one I have. It is placed under the back of the seat and attaches to the fresh water supply coming out of the wall. It's amazing.
No, fuck that advice. Get a stone and learn how to use it. Those knife sharpening devices are ass and any chef worth his salt will tell you that.
Here's a good stone.
AMAZONWenger 16999 Swiss Army Knife Giant by Wenger
> 87 implements
> 141 functions
^([ )[^PM](https://www.reddit.com/message/compose?to=TSATPWTCOTTTADC "send a private message to this person")^( | )[^FAQ](https://goo.gl/forms/yZMJ5IHUeIMHGe7s2 "questions that I frequently ask")^( | society , community , progress | v0.30 ])
You're saving some dollars, but your method isn't as efficient as 3M window plastic. I've used that stuff before and it's great. I'd rather spend a few extra bucks to get better heat retention, plus ya know, I enjoy being able to see out my windows and have that warm natural light come in. Since you aren't getting as much sunlight, how much extra are you using electric lights? In my opinion the 3M kit is the more frugal option.
You can't use insulating film?
Astor Bidet Fresh Water Spray Non-Electric Mechanical Bidet Toilet Seat Attachment CB-1000 is only $27. I am sorry this happened to you though, it sounds wretched. Also 'clitty litter' is hilarious!
I have four of these in my house. No plumbing experience necessary and they hook into the existing toilet supply without getting additional hookups for hot water or electric.
I love these and so do most guests that try them out.
Not entirely necessary before you move in, but installing a bidet is fairly easy, and once you start using it, you will never want to poop anywhere else. I'd recommend something along the lines of this:
Or, if warm water is something you want, upgrading to the 320 model isn't that much more.
You may have heard the old saying:
>The road to success is through experience.
>The road to experience is through failure.
It sounds like you have already achieved some failure, so this means you are well on your way on the road to success!
Let me add another old saying that I just made up:
>Good technique may overcome a bad soldering iron.
>A great soldering iron will never overcome bad technique.
You didn't mention what kind of iron and what kind of solder you are using now. But if you are getting cold joints, that is more likely a sign of bad technique rather than the wrong iron.
Cold joints happen when you heat the solder instead of heating the work material. The hot solder hits the cold metal and freezes in place instead of flowing onto the hot metal.
You need to heat the work material itself first. If it's a through-hole component, then after you turn the board upside down, touch the iron to both the component's wire lead and the board's pad. Only after both of those heat up do you apply the rosin core solder to melt onto and into them. Then you will have a beautiful shiny solder joint.
This does take some finesse and attention to timing. So I would do this Heathkit style. The Heathkits I bought when I was a teenager always came with clear instructions on how to solder, and most importantly, some extra pieces to practice with. I learned to get the technique down on those before tackling the kit itself. So practice on scrap material until you have it down.
Of course a good iron and good solder will help. If you're using lead-free solder, I might suggest a traditional lead-tin solder instead, as it is easier to work with.
For an iron, you didn't mention what you're using now, or what your budget might be. If something around $100 works for you, you can't go wrong with the Hakko FX888D. You might want some extra tips of various sizes too.
Desoldering is an art to itself. Do you have some desoldering braid? I used to use the "soldapullit" suction pumps and similar things, but the braid always gave me better results. It comes in different widths so you can pick one that fits the work you're doing.
I hope these notes are helpful. Holler back with any questions, and happy soldering!
Let me start by saying I understand the struggle to sleep. I spent 13 years on sleeping pills and have finally been fully of for 1 year now. You should strongly consider something other than benadryl. Regular anticholinergics use has a very strong link to dementia later in life. Consider some of these:
Massive study of almost 60,000 people demonstrsting the strong link: https://jamanetwork.com/journals/jamainternalmedicine/fullarticle/2736353
I love my Gerber Shard but that is pretty cool.
Just checked Amazon, now they want $9,000 used!!
You might be surprised.
For something like 40 bucks off amazon you can put a perfectly acceptable one in your toilet.
This one works perfectly. Attaches to the supply hose behind the toilet (low-flow). no more nasty ass, and it pays for itself in $0 toilet paper bills very quickly.
Bought this bidet attachment 3 years ago and it’s the best $25 I’ve spent
I bought this one about two month ago and it’s a game changer. Took about 15 minutes to install and I’m not even a very handy guy.
Ah, something I'm unfortunately an expert at! Skip to point 3 if you just want to read about the light, I'm pasting in something I wrote on a different thread. I have suffered from really dramatic SAD for years (Minnesota) and have finally got a handle on it.
For me, it revolves around 3 categories: Exercise, Vitamin D, and Light. Especially blue light. Also, I didn't realize until I started really digging into it how poorly researched SAD is. . .
Wear blue-blocking glasses every night starting 90 minutes before bed. Richard actually got me turned on to these, and they seem to work really well: https://www.amazon.com/Uvex-Blocking-Computer-SCT-Orange-S1933X/dp/B000USRG90
Wire up some LED's in the specific blue wavelength to use at my desk at work. However, I happened to find an (overly expensive) ready to go solution to this from Phillips: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00M3SGCUE This sits on my desk just below my monitor and beams JUST blue light into my face, within my field of vision. I can comfortably have this on for several hours in the morning, and it seems to make a huge difference. I think.
The light and the glasses seem to agree, as wearing the glasses makes the light very nearly disappear. . .
TL;DR: Use a LOT of blue light in the morning, block blue light late at night.
Close, California. Bidet made in China.
I actually did a review of it after the company sent me a 2nd one (to review) but fuck if I can find it amongst the other 678 reviews.
Attachable bidets are a good alternative.
nice ad, but if you want a nice bidet, you don't need to spend $69 on one. i've used this one for years and it's absolutely perfect.
It's called window insulation film, and sounds like you really need it!
You attach a sheet of plastic to the inside of the window frame using double-sided tape. Then you heat the film using something like a hair dryer so that it becomes more rigid and finishes the seal.
The stuff is sold online and of course and all the major home-improvement stores, here's an example:
Its a kit like this: https://www.amazon.com/3M-Indoor-Window-Insulator-5-Window/dp/B00002NCJI
You attach it with the tape then use a hair dryer to shrink it.
Exactly!!! thats why I got this bad boy!
pro tip Though at this point it is more of a have on hand for next time tip.
For anyone looking to get into whetstone sharpening, just know that it's really not all that difficult.
A good starter stone is the Shapton Pro 1k which can be found on Amazon for just $36. It's a splash and go stone that doesn't require any soaking and it's a hard stone that doesn't dish fast.
While the 1k is a good starting point for any knife that isn't already a butter knife, the 320 grit would be necessary for turning that butter knife into a real knife again.
If you want something with more polish and a higher level of sharpness, the 5000 grit will offer a good deal of edge refinement without going too crazy. However, this is pretty much pointless for any knife under 60 HRC (a Wusthof is at 58 HRC which is pushing it) since that softer steel won't hold a 5k edge for very long at all.
These Kuromaku stones are real Shapton Pros, but those manufactured for the Japanese market. The versions for the western market have differently labeling printed on the stones, but are otherwise identical. Prices for Kuromaku Shaptons vary widly on Amazon so it's worth waiting for a deal, and only a few are actually available at these lower prices.
An even cheaper option is the King 1k/6k combination stone which is viable, but not something I usually recommend. It dishes fast, the 6k side is overkill for most home cooks, and from what I've heard using the stone isn't a particularly good experience.
If you would like to learn about sharpening in general, or how to do it, start here: https://www.reddit.com/r/chefknives/wiki/sharpening
And if you're looking for a knife or how to care for it, consider stopping by /r/chefknives!
Not sure if has a pitchfork, but you can probably build one.
not that expensive to retrofit.
Personally, I don't like using public drinking fountains because the nozzles are a bacterial dreamland. I imagine the spray heads on a bidet are even worse.
You need a bidet attachment.
$35 an Amazon for a Luxe Bidet Neo 120. I bought three of these (actually two of the 180s, and one 185), one for each bathroom and couldn't be happier. The higher models offer dual sprayers (one sprays further forward), and different controls. Taps into the clean water line going to the tank so it is super easy to install. I recommend 1000%.
Dude don't wait to redo the bathroom, get a bidet attachment for your existing toilet.
Nitecore TIP CRI- <$30, small enough to comfortably have on a keychain, USB charging, very bright, high quality LED.
> Turbo: 240 Lumens / 30 min
> High: 95 Lumens / 1 hr 30 min
> Mid: 22 Lumens / 6 hr 30 min
> Low: 1 Lumens / 46 hr
Thrunite Neutron 2C v3 ~$50, much more powerful 18650 light with USB charging. The battery tube can be shortened to use 18350 batteries, which would bring the overall length to under 4". Be sure to get the Neutral White version. The following run times are for an 18650 battery, the run times for an 18350 battery will be less than half as long.
> Turbo: 1100 Lumens / 2.2 hrs
> High: 650 Lumens / 2.7 hrs
> Low: 12 Lumens / 130 hrs
> Firefly: 0.5 Lumens / 49 days.
Buy this and don't look back.
Weller makes pretty decent stuff for the most part.
Clockwise from top left:
OLPR Leather Minimalist Wallet
Nite Ize Steel Key Rack with Molle velcro strap and key ring
Attached to it are my 64GB Toshiba Flash Drive, Gerber Shard and keys.
Zebra Mini T-3 that I clip in the spine of my wallet
Fisher Space Pen Bullet
Field Notes but in the dot-graph version
Military issue Victorinox Bantam, couldn't find black online
Nicron B10 Rechargeable Flashlight
First ever pocket knife, the Tac-Force Spring Assisted Knife
iPhone 8 Plus
Here's an example: http://www.amazon.com/3M-Indoor-Window-Insulator-5-Window/dp/B00002NCJI
This can make a huge difference if you do a good job and blowdry it nice and tight.
Ever try one of these? Giant plastic bladder that sits in your tub and holds water. https://www.amazon.com/WaterBOB-Emergency-Container-Drinking-Hurricane/dp/B001AXLUX2
>The Wenger Giant Knife
$30 and prime shipping
It's basically a jet of cold water that's aimed at your asshole. I've owned this exact one for just over a year now, and it's legitimately one of the top 10 purchases of my entire life. That's not even an exaggeration. It has a dial that lets you adjust the pressure of the water, so that you don't accidentally give yourself an enema. The nozzle is already angled so that the water hits the right target. Seriously, buy one. It'll change your life.
We installed this bidet from amazon in every bathroom. It’s under $40 US and easy to install. I’m thinking of upgrading to a Toto washlet in our master bath. Visited Japan and the warm seat and water is nice.
You're about to owe me a huge favor. The best thing I have purchased in the last 5 years is this (I bought a house last year and that doesn't compare with net happiness vs cost) :
This $50 thing CHANGED MY LIFE. It is AMAZING. It's a "shitty" conversation to have with your GF. It's like 5 minutes of awkwardness for a lifetime of a clean bottom. No wiping, almost no toilet paper, no remnants, it's faster, it's healthier.
If this is something you're really concerned about, you could invest in a very affordable bidet seat for your toilet
This will spray and help clean your ass a lot more than using TP. These are very common in Asia and formal bidets are found throughout Europe. Feels good, cleans good!
bidets are $35 on amazon, and they attach directly onto your toilet in a roughtly 5-minute installation. No idea what you mean when you're saying "there's no space really". If there's space for your ass-cheeks, there's space for a bidet.
Every time someone brings up bidets on reddit, I always see some sort of disclaimer that could turn people off or confuse people about them (e.g. the water is too cold, they're too expensive, etc.)
The fact of the matter is that they're $35 on Amazon (here's the one I have), incredibly easy to install, shoot out room-temperature water, save you long-term on TP costs, etc. I have no idea why every house doesn't have one these days.
I'm proud to say I haven't wiped my ass in months!
[Astor Bidet Fresh Water Spray Non-Electric Mechanical Bidet Toilet Seat Attachment CB-1000] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TPGPUW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_ws4oxb6P4YQQE)
Get a bidet. They're cheap and easy to install.
Reusable toilet paper sounds gross.
No way, sorry.
>You can get orange glasses that block out blue light for $8 on Amazon They look goofy, but they'll do the job that f.lux does.
I know. That was the first thing I thought. I bought two kits for my x220 and x230, I screwed up royally the first attempt and wound up needing to use the second set of items.
Before you start, the equipment you will need:
A few words of "wisdom"
Also, on the V5, I used the old installation guide and the big difference is that the power is connected to the far left under the fuse marked "P". In the picture your finger is kind of covering it.
EDIT: Anyone trying to justify spending ~$125US on a good soldering iron and solder just remember that replacing the motherboard will cost you about the same and will not be as useful a decade from now.
I recommend going slow with hand tools. Buy them one or two at a time, and then learn to use, sharpen, and care for those before buying more. This will help you get the best stuff for you while spending as little as possible. Let your projects guide your tool purchases.
Amazon isn't a great place to buy hand tools. Most people shop at either Lee Valley, Lie-Nielsen, or eBay for planes, chisels, saws, rasps, etc. That said, there's a surprising amount of stuff you'll need that's not the tools themselves. Personally, I wouldn't want to saddle myself with an inferior tool just to use a gift certificate.
Anyways. Stuff you SHOULD buy on amazon:
Professional Chef here.
First off, you really only need the chef knife. Butcher knife can do pretty much everything that the chef knife can do besides the detail work. It's going to come down to preference.
Second, BIFL quality of a knife is going to depend on what you're using it for. If you're just using a chef knife for your everyday knife in your own personal kitchen, then it could potentially last you for the rest of your life. If you're using it for commercial purposes then it's only going to last as long as 3-10 years depending on the quality of the knife due to sharpening.
Third, as for sharpening is concerned depending on what kind of metal you are working with and how often you use the knife, you're probably going to need to sharpen every month-3 months. I work in a commercial kitchen and I sharpen my knife every week at least, sometimes twice a week.
Most people will tell you that something like this works just fine for sharpening your knife, but I find that they don't hold an edge for very long and the quality of the edge is sub par. Personally I use this and it gets me a RAZOR sharp edge every time. If you can shave your arm with one pass then you did it right. Just watch some youtube videos on how to sharpen a knife using wet stones and you'll be a pro in no time.
Keep your knives sharp! A sharp knife may cut you easier, but it is safer than a dull knife. The reason being is the amount of PRESSURE you apply to the object your cutting. A sharp knife will give little resistance and wont need as much pressure as a dull knife. So if you do cut yourself it will be with very little pressure as opposed to SMASHING a dull knife into your flesh. It's a bad time, trust me.
Anyway, stay stafe, have fun, and enjoy your knives.
Mine is 1000 grit on one side and 6000 grit on the other. This is stone I have and it will get any knife you have plenty sharp. It does take a while to get the technique down though, but it's well worth it once you do. I used youtube to teach myself how to do it correctly.
That's not a pocket knife, THIS is a pocket knife!
I hope this doesn't get buried, it can really help you. I fucking love my mini flash light. You would be surprised at how much you will use one. You whip it out when you need it, and fucking bam, you can see the world. This is the one I have, I keep it on my person 24/7 and it is very durable. Don't let the small size deter you, it is fucking legit. On a dark night in my back yard, this thing can go out for maybe 60ish yards. I'm not even a delivery person, and it was one of the best investments I've every made. I just keep it on a lanyard that I always have on me. Usually in my pocket.
[Streamlight Stylus Pro pen light.] (https://smile.amazon.com/Streamlight-66118-Stylus-PenLight-Holster/dp/B0015UC17E/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1519722455&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=streamlight&amp;th=1)
Kershaw Shuffle II.
I don't want to come off as an internet jerk, but this seems to be more of a teenage survival-fantasy kit than an EDC kit. I would like to offer a couple of friendly take-it or leave-it suggestions.
Yeah if you're soldering anything significant its worth your time and money. Wellers are popular where I work as a small desk station
Don't bother with a $20 iron imo
I get my toilet paper from Amazon as well, but I also got a $25 bidet from Amazon and it has been life changing. You will never ever ever regret it. My husband was a hard sell in trying it, now he won't poop anywhere but at home lol he feels disgusting without it. Took less than 10 minutes to install and only needed a Philips head screwdriver.
Basic $25 bidet
Slightly nicer one for $35
Or you can go super cheap and get one that doesn't require electricity but shoots ambient temperature water.
Astor Bidet Fresh Water Spray Non-Electric Mechanical Bidet Toilet Seat Attachment CB-1000 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TPGPUW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_h0IbBbT6ZMWN5
Edit: link that has 6.6k reviews instead of 60.
Get a bidet. They aren't expensive and they will save you so much time. Seriously, it's the best life choice you'll ever make.
Only peasants use toilet paper, nobles use bidet. Be one of us OP.
Definetly Wowtac A2S as I need to upgrade to the 18650 world.
Edit: Aw maan, it would appear that I don't have the required 100 comment carma :/
Definitely the most recommended budget friendly headlamp around here. Bright, tough, waterproof, good UI with shortcuts to firefly and turbo, can be used handheld or on a headband, comes with a battery that has a micro USB port for charging, so it’s perfect if you don’t have 18650s and a charger yet.
I bought a bidet a short while ago and its one of the top life investments, ever. I think this one is very adequate and less expensive. Amazing life upgrade. http://www.amazon.com/Luxe-MB110-Non-Electric-Mechanical-Attachment/dp/B001KKRCFA/ref=pd_cp_hi_2
The Japanese have perfected the art of after-poop cleaning with the Toto Washlet. But if you don't want to spend tons of money on that you can have the same cleaning power with out the heated seat for $24 on Amazon:
We have these non-electric bidets attached to our toilets.
Here is a link: http://smile.amazon.com/Astor-Non-Electric-Mechanical-Attachment-CB-1000/dp/B003TPGPUW/ref=sr_1_1?s=kitchen-bath&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1458580618&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=bidet
They are much nicer to use specially for the heavily constipated pregnant women like me :-) The water is not heated, but I am used to it now.
I like the Morakniv and firesteel ideas, and also:
Amazon link for convenience.
The Customer Questions & Answers sections is equally entertaining:
> Question: Can it core a apple?
Answer: Of course it can, but the apple-corer blade is accessible only if you use it immediately after the bagpipe bladder stitch removal cumberbutton and before using the panda baby spoon.
> Question: can we see a photo of this knife in the closed position?
Answer: No. Unfortunately, closing the knife brings too much mass into one location causing the formation of a small black hole. This is not covered by the warranty.
> Question: Where is the Flugelhorn?
Answer: Right in between the warp drive and the creme brulee torch.
A few tips to help you out OP:
A few other useful items you should get either now or later, most of this you should have around the house already:
If you're okay with a headlamp that takes 18650s, take a look at these.
Seriously, buy clorox wipes and go on a spree getting all the knobs, handles, faucets, electonics, etc.
Then buy some baby wipes and introduce your roommate to the wonderful world of wiping. You could even buy a cheap and easy to install bidet attachment for him.
This is the one i have and it works flawlessly. no more skid marks in the boxers. No more ass rashes. no more dirt butt.
Buy a Bidet off amazon and dont ever whipe more than twice again. I will link it below. Once you go Bidet you never go back.
Yo I'm gonna be honest with you... I went to the local pub last night and ate a mountain of Nachos while watching the NCAA Finals. I'm mildly lactose intolerant. I've taken three painful dumps so far today and my butthole has taken quite the beating. Nonetheless, I still highly recommend everyone buy a bidet. The Europeans know what's up. Here's the one I bought off Amazon over 5 years ago. Still as good as new. Only $35 bucks with free Prime 1 day shipping. At those prices you can't afford NOT to buy one. If they had these installed at my work's bathroom, I wouldn't be in this mess. At the very least, they could install the three seashells. It's 2017. Stop wiping with paper, you savages.
that's what i have...life changing.
Luxe Bidet Neo 120 - Self Cleaning Nozzle - Fresh Water Non-Electric Mechanical Bidet Toilet Attachment (blue and white) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A0RHSJO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_QZMLDbZ8H5VD8
I installed it in my master bedroom. I have this one Luxe Bidet Neo 120 - Self Cleaning Nozzle - Fresh Water Non-Electric Mechanical Bidet Toilet Attachment (blue and white) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A0RHSJO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_UhiLzbQHS5ZDG
I can't say enough positive things about it. I don't know how I lived without it so long. The kids might play with it but that seems easily correctable and worth the headache
I wrote this up earlier today for someone who wanted to start getting prepped on ~$75/Month but also wanted to not have to cook the foods. I did include some long term storage as the first step anyway because it's so cheap and easy, but so far as consumables go, this is a good start for you.
A lot of this is a shelf life and storage space issue. If you have plenty of room for storage, I'd start like this:
Buy two 50lb bags of white rice from a place like Costco or Sam's Club. Find 3 food safe 5 gallon buckets with lids. Get Mylar Bags and O2 Absorbers. Then hit Youtube for instructions on what to do with them. If the Mylar bags bit will hold you back from doing this, then skip them and just clean the buckets then dump rice in them straight. Seal, date, set aside. That's 160,000 calories in month 1. Given normal pantry supplies that stretches things out quite a ways. Plan on rotating out at 7ish years if put straight into the bucket and 20 years if you use the Mylar. Realistically, with Mylar, white rice may be good for much longer than 20 years (most people say 30, but for the minimal investment I'd rotate earlier to be safe).
Grab a Water Bob (not right now though, hurricane season has prices high and stocks low for them). Also, a Sawyer Water Filter or two. That gives you an opportunity to grab an extra hundred gallons of water in your bathtub initially given enough warning, and some water purification options later on.
Assuming you have storage capacity, start looking at #10 cans of food. Those are the cans that are around a foot tall and very wide. Look for things that you would eat and would be usuable in your daily lives, but also ones that would be calorie dense. For example, refried beans, nacho cheese, baked beans, white potatoes, chick peas, chili with beans, etc. Those are things you can use in recipes at home, but can pick them up and store them for a couple of years first. Getting them in the larger can is a better return on investment/dollar than buying smaller ones.
If your pantry isn't topped up with the things your family normally eats, drop that money to get a little deeper on those things. Velveeta cheese, crackers, cans of soup, noodles, peanut butter/jelly, canned vegetables/fruit, pasta/sauce, salsa, dried/canned beans, seasonings, canned meat, canned chili, etc. Date them and make sure to work through the oldest first. Having the normal foods you eat in bulk will likely end up being what gets you through most things (like the current hurricane season, job loss, winter blizzard, etc). Spending on these things can be used to fill out whatever is left of your budget when it gets partially used up on other things. I'd also maybe consider having some flats of bottled water at home as well. I usually keep 4-7 Costco sized ones on hand for my SO and I.
Start looking at longer term bulk water storage. I like 5 gallon stackable water cubes as they're easier to move and use and you buy them as you have a little extra cash here and there, but if you want to bump the budget up a bit for a month and your wife won't look at you like you're crazy, a 55 gallon barrel is a better price per gallon than the individual cubes. Sometimes there's just no replacing having your own clean water source ready to go. Barring all of that, if your family will use them just grab a bunch of flats of bottled water and rotate them. Stacked high they don't take up a ton of floor space.
At this point you're pretty well set initially for both water and food. Keep the pantry stocked and rotating. Add on for long term stored water as you see fit and maybe invest in something like a Big Berkey if you really want to drop some money into it. At that point I'd probably begin considering longer term food storage. More rice, add in some dry beans (roughly 5 year shelf life in Mylar/Buckets), and if you're feeling really into it you can get unground wheat and that will last 30 years or better in Mylar/Buckets. You'll just need to have a hand crank grinder or two to use it.
I get wanting ready to eat foods, and that's pretty easy to do and a great place to start, but as one last recommendation... grab yourself a Propane Burner and a high pressure hose for it so that you can use regular propane tanks. You may be able to eat cold soup out of the can, but it's a lot more comforting when it's warm, and you can pretty easily have the ability to add more of your foods into your diet (like spaghetti or mac and cheese) when you can still have a burner to work with.
Waterbobs for the win.
WaterBOB Emergency Drinking Water Storage (100 Gallons) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001AXLUX2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Cs5NzbY5TDVB6
There are giant water sacks that fit inside bath tubs and can be used if the tub isn't as clean as you'd want to drink out of.
(WaterBOB Emergency Drinking Water Storage (100 Gallons) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001AXLUX2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_my9Gzb5772SMJ)
As far as camp toilets, Ive heard people using kitty litter in a pinch, pardon the pun.
If you're worried about your bathtub not being very clean or if it has leaks, there are bladders you can buy. Even has a hand pump.
You're new to the industry, and new to cooking. Quite frankly, your skills are at the point where you won't really have a huge preference one way or the other, and you won't perform any differently with a 50 dollars knife versus a 5000 dollar knife. Similarly, fancy whetstones, glass stones, sharpening systems, etc won't make a difference either.
Right now, get the basics. Good solid stuff that's relatively cheap so that you can figure out what you like, and don't like. You have 1300-1500 to spend-- Good. Save it for now. Industry doesn't pay much. Here's the basics to start you out that has the best bang for buck, and gives you some different styles and feels to try out, so that you can figure out what you'll eventually enjoy the most. If you want more information on any of the knives, let me know.
This is a knife that's full tang, VG-10 steel(same as Shun), and has decent heat treat. Western style handle, with a westernized santoku Japanese style blade. At 60 bucks, it's a steal.
Ubiquitous western style knife. Steel is the same as the more expensive Wustofs, Mercers, and anything that claims to use "German Stainless Steel". It's all x50crmov15, with slightly different heat treats. Victorinox does it right.
HAP40 high speed tool steel. This is the high tech stuff used in blade competitions. Japanese style handle, maintains a really sharp edge for a really long time. A little more expensive, but that kind of steel for that price is really, really worth it.
Look, a cleaver's a cleaver. You don't need fancy steels or anything-- You just need a whole lotta force behind a whole lotta steel. Hone and sharpen often, and this'll do great for you.
Speaking of cleavers, though...
Chinese cleavers are awesome. They're not actually cleavers though, don't use them on bones and the like-- They're the Chinese version of the all purpose chef knife or gyuto knife. Chinese chefs are expected to be able to do everything with this knife, from fileting to tourne to peeling to chopping to brunoise, so they're actually quite versatile. Speaking of which-- This also fills in for the Japanese Nakiri role. Tons of fun to use.
This is a fantastic stone, one that Master Bladesmith Murray Carter uses. I ran a knife sharpening service, and this is the one I used for most knives as well. Since you won't have to deal with weird recurves and tantos and nightmare grinds and the like that can show up on folding knives, this will serve you very well.
This is in case you get some gnarly chips on any knives. This'll get it out quick and easy. Bonus-- Use it to flatten and maintain your King stone. This and the King stone is all you really need for sharpening. You can easily get a shaving edge with it.
Besides those, stick with what you got in the Mercer kit for the specialty knives. You really don't need fancy versions of those. You also really don't need a serrated utility knife at all. In the professional kitchen, the three knives that saw the most work were the overall chef knife(even for fileting and some light butchering), the 4 dollar Victorinox paring knife(quick and easy to sharpen), and the Mercer tourne knife.
Buying all this will amount to 431.31, giving you a combination sharpening stone, a flattening/reprofiling stone, and 5 fun knives of all different kinds to play with, at a fraction of the cost. You'll notice I didn't put any Super Blue or White #1 steels in there-- That's because A) They're more difficult to take care of, and B) They're really overpriced for what they are, simply because their "japanese" moniker makes people think they're super laser swords from a land of secret steels(they're not). The HAP40 steel beats these steels in pretty much every category.
Hope you found it helpful! Have fun with whatever you decide to choose.
I use this one.
Or one easy payment of $36.27 and free two day shipping with Amazon Prime.
This $27 investment has saved me at least that in TP costs. 1 wipe every time, cleaner butthole, and only took 15 minutes to install. Why doesn't everyone have one?
Astor Bidet Fresh Water Spray Non-Electric Mechanical Bidet Toilet Seat Attachment CB-1000 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TPGPUW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awd_NVz2wb7797KH3
Buy this one and thank me later.
This one. No fancy heat or drying, but great pressure that you can adjust.
You can get okay ones for $50-100. Are you looking for a soldering station or just a soldering pencil/gun?
I would recommend a wall unit, as opposed to a butane unit, because butane ones are mainly for people soldering in the field. They are nice and portable, but you have more wall outlets than butane canisters in your place, so it's easier
Weller and Hakko are great brands, their tips are a bit pricey too, but trust me, they last a lot longer than the cheap irons and their cheap tips.
You can't go wrong with any of these:
Feel free to ask me other questions.
Twlight, f.lux, etc. are steps in the right direction for circadian rhythms, but are relatively useless in my opinion if all other sources of artificial blue/white light aren't filtered out as well, such as lamps. The only way to really block out all artificial blue light is to wear blue light blocking glasses at night.
All this is carried comfortably in my 5.11 Apex pants.
Mostly people at work. I work IT and regularly have to climb under desks to inspect cabling between a desk and wall. I carry the Streamlight Microstream and it doesn't add much if any bulk or weight in my pocket. As a bonus, it's cheap enough that I don't mind it getting banged up.
25 dollars won't get you too far, but each of these is around 25 dollars or less.
Flashlight: Stylus Pro
Pen: Lamy or 701
I’d recommend you get a soldering station instead; something similar to this: Soldering station
To fix this spoon correctly, you will need a Wenger 16999 Swiss Army Knife Giant. Be sure to read the comments of this knife for directions on how to fix this spoon, save a baby whale, and to become a country/western singer.
You are basically in for the entire forum to show up and try to talk you out of the zoom lens. They really don't get much in the way of love around here. Most of the lights you'll see recommended (and the A6 in particular, which is a really incredible light) have a balanced mixture of flood and throw. There is a central hot spot that throws a significant distance, surrounded by a spill of light that neatly floods out, it basically encompasses the whole range of zoom. If you need a dedicated thrower, get one of those, or a dedicated flooder, get one of those. A zoomie basically tries to do both, and sucks at everything. Additionally, there really isn't a good way to waterproof one, so they tend to be far less robust than most of the other lights on the market, as well as being far less efficient in the amount of light that they actually put out. The BLF A6 would be a great option, as would a Wowtac A1s, which comes with a battery so it's ready to go. Spending a bit more a Thrunite Neutron 2C is another great choice.
If you absolutely, positively, no buts about it think that all of these nerds who spend an utterly absurd amount of time on the subject of flashlights couldn't possibly be right, and you, come hell or high water, are going to be ordering a zoomie no matter what we tell you, the Wowtac A3s sucks considerably less than the one you have.
This is the one I bought.
Or just buy a bidet. No more need to pollute the environment by cutting down trees to wipe your ass and it may be semi-expensive at first ($35 for one off Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A0RHSJO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_t4-vzbC9Z4V0Z ) but in the long run, you will save money.
You are all disgusting to me. Behold, the 25 dollar bidet:
You motherfuckers need a bidet.
Instead of collapsible water containers, I bought a WaterBob bathtub container. If anything is headed my way, it gets filled up. After the flood in 2015 city water was screwed for almost 2 weeks in my area. 100gal is enough for about a month for me, my kid, and my dogs if needs be.
Ya I could give some recommendations.
First, that 200 lumens claimed by Black Diamond is more than likely inflated. How long do they claim that lasts?
Second, a lot of people who enjoy the outdoors believe that a red light is best for keeping night vision. Over at r/flashlight it has been debated a lot and the general consensus is that a "sub-lumen mode" is better than a red light for keeping night vision. That would be a mode that is below 1 lumen, and I could not agree more.
Now for the recommendations (Please note I did not have time to find the best deals out there, so please look around for better pricing. Also, I recommend for all the below recommendations that you go with the WARMEST tint.):
Wowtac A2S- Well regarded as one of the best starter headlamps out there at a great price. Comes with a rechargeable battery.
Skillhunt H03- Another highly praised light at a decent price. Does not come with a battery. This light would require a battery that could be charged or a battery with a charger.
Olight H1R Honestly, I don't know much about this one as I am not a fan of Olight. However, Olight is a well regarded brand and I gurantee many people out there enjoy that light.
Armytek Wizard Pro- My personal favorite of the group. Very well regarded light with an amazing beam pattern and vast range of setting. Although a little expensive, this is an amazing light I have no problem recommending. Also check out the Elf and the Tiara
Zebralight Again, I don't know much about Zebralight. However, most people over at r/flashlight debate whether Zebralight or Armytek makes the best headlamp. If you like Zebralight and want a specific model recommendation, check over in the sub reddit.
There are a lot more out there. u/parametrek has created a database where you can put in your requirements and it will show you basically every light under the sun that is a good fit. Check it out http://flashlights.parametrek.com/index.html
>Need a budget friendly right angle tactical flashlight in Canada
Here you go
Second the headlamp suggestion. The Wowtac A2S is also a popular budget choice.
It comes in neutral white (many people prefer this tint over cool white), also comes with a 18650 cell that can be recharged via a micro USB cord. Much cheaper than buying light+ battery+ charger.
Bought this guy for $30. If/when it breaks, we buy another. It gets the job done!
I had some sticker shock on my December bill, over $400. No gas in the house though, all electric. It's an old house, built in the '20s and is a bit larger than yours. Original windows on the main floor but updated energy efficient windows on the upper floor. I only keep it at 65 while we're home and 61 while we're away. Not really sure about the insulation but the walls are all lathe and plaster so I'm not really keen on investigating that.
This month I'm focusing on plugging some airgaps and replacing the weather stripping on the doors. Also bought some of these for my main floor windows so we'll see how much that helps.
I would add to this list the new SP36 with LH351D and Anduril. 90 CRI and 5000 lumens
Sofirn SP36 BLF Anduril Powerful Flashlight, 4 LH351D LED 5000K 90 CRI, USB C Rechargeable, Battery Not Included https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KFF5BGZ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_uRN6Cb1SYCA24
And this will solve any zip tie problem in an instant
I have a couple, cheep, work great, good app, echo compatible.
Grab a good hakko or weller soldering station and you should be set for years! They make pretty damn good clones of these as well for much cheaper if you want to save a few bucks.
I was thinking the same thing. Do people not know that these exist? Moreover, how much easier they make your life? There's no substitute when the need arises.
If you live on the coast and have a bathtub, I would recommend investing in a waterbob some point. They're like $35, they hold 100 gallons, and they don't take up much room for storage. Flashlights are good, but battery powered lanterns are better light sources for a room. Above all, make sure you have some bug spray.
Wenger 16999 Swiss Army Knife Giant https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001DZTJRQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_1DfJAb4HPQJ12
I have one of these I keep in the bathroom. No worrying about how clean the tub is. Also then the water is not exposed.
This Weller has served me well. Although it takes some getting used to. Just check out some vids on proper operation.
Weller WLC100 40-Watt Soldering Station https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AS28UC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_5kYdBbXBK3117
> I might want something that takes disposable batteries, considering I may be down in the cave for hours.
You don't want disposables! You do want something that can take spare rechargeable batteries.
Take a look at the $30 Wowtac A2S in neutral white. And then spend the remain money on spare 18650 and a charger at Illumn.
30 bucks from amazon and no need to tear out his toilet.
It has changed my world of pooping.
What? I bought a bidet for $25 off Amazon and installed it in 15 minutes.
This is the one I bought. it uses the same water line as the toilet and it just hooks up to it.
a bidet could change your life, friend.
Boi, they cost like $30 on Amazon. I have this one and fr, I'm never going back to just toilet paper ever again
My wife and I live in a mini-bus. One of the most valuable things to us has been a little flashlight that's powered with AAA's. We both use a Streamlight MicroStream and love them. We always keep them handy--mine stays in my pocket. You could buy some batteries to go with if you'd like.
Here's a link to something very similar to what we use. (Streamlight 66318 MicroStream C4 LED Pen Flashlight https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00143JZ08/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_x8hLub0SNSHQK)
I've heard good things about this.
For those that are interested, there are actually very cheap modifications that you can install on an existing toilet rather than replacing it with an expensive bidet.
About 6 months ago I read an article on reddit about how great there were and got interested, and bought this one on impulse for $35: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B001KKRCFA/ (I think there's a newer version in the same price range, so look around a bit before you buy.)
It just uses your normal water supply and the water where I live is from a well so it is ice cold in the winter. It took a little getting used to, but seriously I have to say that I love the thing. I would hate to go back to a normal toilet. It also vastly reduces the amount of tissue paper you use, so from an environmental standpoint that is pretty good.
^(Not exactly sure this is TrueReddit material, but since I have an opinion...)
No, what i mean is different. There are toilets with a lot of weird functions (like playing music and other obscure stuff) and one of those being spraying or squirting water. But a bidet works too i guess.
Edit: Something like this but more andvanced and already built into the toilet
Edit 2: Found a thing
Peanut lighter (free shipping): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GGDD03E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_9.FZxbNKDSH3W
Paracord 25 feet (free shipping w/ prime): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007Z1QP6K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_9aGZxb0JKWNVR
Flint rod (free shipping): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CP1HKDW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fdGZxbCC651JQ
CRKT Eat N Tool (free shipping): https://amzn.com/B0030IRKHK
US military can openers (free shipping w/ prime): https://amzn.com/B005IDQW3S
Wire Saw (free shipping): https://amzn.com/B0018VCJTA
Gerber Shard (free w/ prime): https://amzn.com/B002ZK45IQ
Edit: More stuff
This might be the best 3$ you ever spend.
In my experience, radio shack soldering iron tips go bad in a single use (of soldering a PCB's worth of components). No matter how much you try to tin the damn things, they oxidize.
I don't know anything about hakko, but I love my Weller.
If you plan on using it for anything more than the ErgoDox, make sure you get one that'll last. One of the most important things is that the tip is cheap to replace. I got a Radio Shack one for $25 when I first started with electronics and I seriously regret it. Turns out that when the tip died after a couple of months, it would have been cheaper to just get a new iron rather than replacing the tip.
I replaced the Radio Shack iron with this Weller model. The tips are about $5, so replacement and getting alternative tips is quite affordable. Ebay is a good source.
I found a few threads in /r/AskElectronics and /r/Electronics. This iron is one that they recommended, and one I've seen before myself (see this thread). The OP in this thread had a much higher budget, and there were a bunch of Hakkos recommended. Weller and Hakko are generally quite good brands.
As an additional piece of information, since we'll have to solder surface mount components (the resistor, I think), you may find this video guide to be useful. Our components should be much larger, but still helpful to see the techniques. Here's a comic about more general soldering.
The Hakko FX-888D. It's pushing your budget a little bit(you're going to want to get new tips at some point), but I've used them in personal, educational, and professional environments. Really a solid iron for what you pay.
That problem is so easy to solve too.
Less than five bucks, flush-cut side cutters which will trim cable ties with no sharp edges whatsover.
Sometimes, cable ties are a fine tool for the job, just have to be used appropriately.
a fuzz face is one of the simplest circuits out there. Its just a darlington pair of transistors with an emiter feedback adjustable bias on Q1.
Its literally just 11 parts.
A fuzz face is also one of those pedals where you can make an identical pedal to those 800$+ nkt275 sunface for less than 50$, with even some of the more "mystic-magic-mojo-bullshit" transistors its still going to be dead cheap to build.
Also, heres a little copy paste i made for people looking to start soldering and what tools you should pick up, and what you dont need.
Yes that will work absolutely fine, but as someone who does a lot of soldering there are a few other things I would say.
if you don't plan on doing much soldering in the future and it's more of a one time thing, there's really no reason to get anything bore expensive than this. I spend easily 60 hours of solid soldering on the earlier version of this (same thing just without the leds) and I only ever replaced it because the tips were getting worn out (although you can replace the tips for cheap) and because I thought I deserved a more solid iron considering how much soldering I do.
if you do plan on doing lots of soldering in the future then I would recommend getting something other than a weller, they're honestly just one of those things that for years have been the industry standard but honestly have gone down hill. I've used a dozen different wellers, some old some new, some cheap some costing 300$ but none of them are really good. I, along with almost everyone in electronic repair industry like Luis Rossmann recommend a brang called hakko. I use atd absolutely love the hakko fx888d. It's really honestly just magic. It heats up to 700+ in under 30 seconds, with a live temperature readout (my old weller would take close to 15 minutes), atd the tips are really just magic, they just don't get corroded at all like every other brand I've used.
It's also worth mentioning for anyone new to soldering that the type of solder used makes a world of difference. What your going to want in rosin core, leaded solder (preferably 63/37 but 60/40 will work too). You want rosin core because it makes it a ton easier to not have to worry about flux, atd unless your doing really tiny electronic you won't need flux beyond the rosin core. You want leaded solder for a few reasons. First off, it melts at a way lower temperature (leaded solder melts at about 360f ish where lead free is closer to 460-480f, but saying that that's not at all the temps you wound use to actually solder at, it ranges from 400 - 700f depending on the application ). Leaded also has a way better surface tension, and melts more evenly, all this really just adds up to making it 100 times easier to work with, ESPECIALLY if you need to desolder anything.
I bought this one about a year and a half ago and don't think I'll ever need another one. Going from cheap soldering irons to this one was unbelievable.
If you use GW brushes, get the Standard, Fine Detail, and Wash brushes. These give you a good starting point for most of the stuff you'll be doing. Otherwise you'll want to find similar brushes in other ranges (Windsor & Newton make good brushes). If you go with third-party brushes I think the sizes you'll want are 1, 0, & 3/0.
You can get any sort of sewing mat, where it's basically just a piece of rubber you lay on the table. Joann's Fabrics or any sort of sewing store should have this. Here's one I found on Amazon.
The paint you're working with is water based, so water will work as a thinner. If you decide to airbrush things that will change what you need but for now, build a wet palette.
You'll need some glue at the very least. You might also want some helping hands to hold things while you paint them/glue them together.
>is there a site that tells you what colours you need to paint certain colour styles?
I'm not aware of any one site as a catch-all for painting any scheme, but googling things led me to this site that goes into detail about painting Space Wolves. You could also consider this video from Games Workshop where they go through the steps of painting the model.
As for the paints themselves, I'd recommend working with the Vallejo Game Color paint range. They come pre-thinned (extremely helpful for new painters) and convert to Games Workshop colors pretty easily.
Some more hobby stuff to help you get started:
Object Source Lighting
pls be saef
You gotta get the angle right and then it gets 95%+ of it. A little bit of TP to dry off and clean up any remainder.
The first few times I got water EVERYWHERE, but it's pretty contained now that I know what to do (keep everything low while wiggling around a little to get the right angle and coverage)
This is the one I got. No fancy features and I thought I'd HATE the cold, but I don't mind it at all. Having a clean feature might be nice, but so far haven't seen a need for it.
seriously... they even make ones that sit in the toilet http://www.amazon.com/Luxe-MB110-Non-Electric-Mechanical-Attachment/dp/B001KKRCFA/ref=lp_686953011_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1369314045&amp;sr=1-1
We've bought two for our house and three for relatives as well as talking a friend into buying one. If you can just get people to try them, there's no contest. This is the one we've been buying. It's cheap, easy to install, and effective. If you need some ammo for convincing people:
This post inspired me to buy one. This baby comes in on Friday. Viva la revolución.
Links to the amazon pages for each product for easy access:
If opening bottles is a thing you need it for over a knife, which was not the case for me, I got rid of this tool as well.
Simple but it works
This is what I carry now, after ditching my shard as well because there's plenty of ways to open bottles and tweezers are crazy useful.
I carry an Opinel No 8 everywhere i go. i use it to cut food and light gardening work (trimming, pruning, cut twine to tie up tomatoes, etc). "everywhere" includes backpacking, and any kind of travel. it's short enough and no spring assist, so it doesn't conflict with local laws when i travel.
when i'm backpacking i also carry a small wire key ring with the following:
if i'm doing any kind of campfire, then i bring a mora companion to do any processing that i'll need.
This makes me happy
Your solution lies not in which consumables to buy, but rather in reducing your requirement for them. In the case of toilet paper, install a modular bidet system on your toilet. After you've relieved yourself, activate the water spray. After that, the job of toilet paper is to dry your already-clean arse. The bidet will pay for itself in terms of reduced consumption of toilet paper. Mine has paid for itself many times over.
I was inspired to try it after reading about it in these posts:
They were right.
Try flushable wet wipes. Your life will never be the same.
Also bidet attachments that you can put on top of your toilet.
Y'all are welcome.
The Wowtac A1S and Wowtac A2S are both excellent.
If you need it that soon, you're probably best ordering off Amazon. I'd suggest the Wowtac A1S, [Wowtac A2S](https://www.amazon.com/Headlamp-Headlight-Rechargeable-Waterproof-Headlamps/dp/B075ZN5LJY/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=wowtac&amp;qid=1558886240&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-2&amp;th=1&amp;p sc=1), or the Acebeam H40, unless you want something more expensive.
Hi there. Welcome to an unfortunate club where membership sometimes has steep prices. I am glad you have gotten an early start on preparing 12 cases of water may be enough. The guidance is normally 1 gallon per person per day for 3 days. This includes enough for food preparation, drinking, sanitary, and hygiene needs. You may also want to consider a bathtub liner that acts as a storage tank (like this one ) to aid in toilet flushing or if your water delivery system fails. This did happen for some folks during Harvey, so its importance cannot be overstated. The same amount of food and water should also be stored for your pet.
You also want to make sure you have non-perishable food on hand. If you can eat it, Peanut butter is a great source of energy when you need it during problematic times and clean up. Otherwise think like a hiker for food options. They are usually light easy to store and have high yield for you.
Consider power banks for electronics. Also purchase a hand crank radio as these will be vital to you for communication and information from local authorities in the event your power is out. Flashlights and batteries too. It is hard to see you at night if you need rescue, waving your hand in front of a flashlight is a basic but amazing beacon. Also entrainment like some music and a deck of cards are an extreme comfort when it sucks most. I can also say, from personal experience, extra socks and underwear are GOLD!
Your local and county OEM will be the best people to listen to for evacuation advice. They are paid to constantly consider and revise plans on this.
I hope that all of this is for nothing and that you are spared a major incident, but this is a good start for an all hazards kit. Check out Ready.gov for more specific information on this in case I missed something.
Above all being prepared is being safe.
I wish you ease in this time and hope that Irma decides to vacay somewhere in the middle of the Atlantic instead of any land.
It's useful to get one of these water storage bags so you can fill up enough to last a few weeks if necessary. They aren't very expensive either.
Start by carefully inspecting the sharpener. Then take it off of your keychain. Lastly you can toss it into the trashcan and go onto Amazon for a whetstone like this combination 1000/6000 grit waterstone. Make sure to do a bit of research on sharpening technique as well.
Those pull-through sharpeners remove an excess of metal and provide a subpar edge.
It is actually much better
Similarly, you can use one of these kits, which are basically shrink-wrap for the window. You stick double-sided tape around the window, attach the plastic, and shrink it with a hairdryer. Unlike the blanket, you can still see through it, although you won't be opening the window until you take it down in spring.
If youre thinking of buying that, dont waste your money, its a POS. I would recommend this station, good quality brand, relatively cheap and has some heat settings, doesnt give temperature, but its better than no control at all. Also the tips are pretty easily found.
Cant go wrong with a MicroStreamlight, such a great value for the price.
Yep, so to address that, we have:
With all of that, plus the camping gear we have, we should be able to hunker in place for a month if shit gets real.
Yes! Total game changer. I have this one and it has served me well for 2 years! https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TPGPUW/
I would seriously use like half a roll of toilet paper before I got a bidet. Ridiculous. Sometimes I find that once I spray off my butt it paves the way for more to come out which I think was my problem. 😂
I also have a squatty potty because I take pooping very seriously. 💩
For the best $30 you will ever spend, you can have that feeling every morning.
I believe it varies, based both on personal preference & the type of bidet you are using. My wife & I use a model that just attaches onto the bowl itself (http://amzn.com/B003TPGPUW). I spray without wiping, then dab with toilet paper: both to dry & to make sure I'm truly clean.
Of course! There are a view inexpensive and promising ones. I chose this . Not exactly dirt cheap, but cheap compared to its similarly highly-rated competitors. There are cheaper ones out there.
We honestly talked about them and found the idea to be a good one, I just didn’t think he’d commit to the idea. Now he has to try it! I’ll keep the sub updated 😆
Happy early birthday wishes to your husband!!!
https://www.amazon.com/Luxe-Bidet-Neo-120-Non-Electric/dp/B00A0RHSJO I got this one. It's got a pretty intense spray, so I had to also get a valve thingy to control it better so I didn't give myself an enema every poop, but I like it now lol.
I got this one for christmas and it’s been great! That said I cannot comprehend how anyone can turn the dial past like 2, maybe 3, let alone all the way, without giving themselves an enema...
You could always install a bidet onto your toilet.
They’re really easy to use and involve no waste.
You can check out one here
Not quite 20, but have 2 of these. Work great, wife and I both love it, going into year 3.
How to solder
I got an Eachine 250 racer about a month ago. It has been a lot of fun, but there are a lot of details. My next racer will probably be a smaller/lighter 180 frame.
For FPV goggles I have three ideas. One, is get the status quo Fatshark goggles at whatever level you can afford. Two, get the HeadPlay HD goggles I got. Three, get the Avegant Glyph, which has the really nice feature of letting you pop them up and down without a band. I do really like my HeadPlay HDs, but they are big and bulky. I haven't perfected how to adjust the straps to get them to stay on my head well.
Arms, managed to break one without breaking a prop.
Capacitors, they pop off very easily. I lost a capacitor at the same time I broke an arm. Or a hot glue gun, I Highly recommend putting hot glue over the caps next to each arm to help avoid the loss in the first place. You want a low temperature hot glue gun to not melt any plastic or traces. I consider the capacitor issue a design defect, but you can work around it with hot glue. The original revision seems to have lacked the capacitors, from pictures I have seen online.
Capacitors for Eachine 250 racer:
Youtube video exampling how to solder them:
Get a Taranis X9D Plus. It is a great transmitter. Also get a X4R-SB receiver, and use SBUS. The D4R won't let you control the lights too, because it can't do PPM and PWM at the same time. You can control them with the X4R-SB, SBUS+PWM. SBUS has great latency, 5-10ms. I was recently talking to a sponsored racer who told me that PPM, which is supposed to be 27ms with the D4R, is really more like 100ms. It averages the four last frames together. This link includes a case and X8R, which I think will work as well as the X4R, but you should do the research. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B014IYSXL6/ref=mp_s_a_1_5
To do SBUS+PWM, requires a special bind procedure. You want channels 1-8 as SBUS, and 9+ as PWM. The most relevant part is "jump S1&S3: SBUS, 9, 10, 11 or jump S2&S3: SBUS, 9, 10, 11 (No telemetry)" Here is a link that talks about it.
Small tie wraps like the ones already on the arms to hold the ESCs. You break an arm, and you will need to replace the tie wrap.
Soldering iron, solder, etc, because you have to desolder the ESC from the motor to replace an arm, and then resolder it.
Qtips and rubbing alcohol for cleaning. Mix the alcohol 50/50 with water. The flying field was muddy after lots of rain.
Carrying case of some kind. You don't want it banged around in transport, and same with the transmitter. It is best to get the X9D with the case, because people price gouge on the case stand alone.
Batteries, you can burn through them very fast. But watch out for their height. I bought some of the new "Graphene" 4S batteries, and they are really too tall to fit. Some people remove the back LEDs to make battery installation easier.
Battery charging/carrying bags to help with uncontrolled fires started by batteries. I have two, one for charging, and one for carrying.
A battery charger if you want to use 4S batteries. The included charger is 2S/3S only. I have a Hi-tech X1 which will only charge one battery at a time. You can also get the X4 which will do four at once.
Battery charger for 4S batteries:
XT60 banana plug cable for charging with the above charger:
A V shaped antenna mount to get the receiver antennas up in the air. When over head the carbon fiber body blocks the signal well.
A voltage monitor so you know to land when your battery voltage is low. The video signal includes the battery voltage as part of the OSD, but I prefer LoS while learning to fly. It lets me keep an eye on where I am in relation to trees. On the other hand I have yet to find a good place to mount a voltage monitor. With the length of the balance cable on batteries you are likely going to need a balance cable extension for 3S and another for 4S.
3S balance cable extension:
4S balance cable extension:
Double sided tape to mount things on the top of the body, like the antenna mount and receiver.
Small x-acto knife to help remove the double sided tape.
Electrical tape to tape down wires for lights and receiver.
Size 2.0 hex wrench for the frame screws. It will be needed to replace arms.
Scale that can measure grams. You want to knowing and control weight.
Sunglasses to avoid problems seeing on sunny days. Lets say you are flying LoS, and look into the direction of the sun. You can't see the quad well enough to control it, because of glare from the sun.
ESC flashing adapters to change/upgrade the firmware. I am not sure these are the right ones for the ESCs on the Eachine. I think they are, but I haven't tried it yet.
Atmel socket flashing tool:
Atmel USB programmer:
USB cable to use with transmitters and simulators. It is best to learn the basics in a sim, instead of replacing lots of parts.
USB cable for simulators:
Old post of mine on learning in a simulator:
Be sure to set a fail-safe, which is very easy with the Taranis. I had a fly away with my first Eachine, because of a defective Spektrum DX6 and lack of fail-safe. After that I switched to the Taranis, which doesn't cost much more and has way more capacity.
Hey! Great questions! And good on you for asking them!
So first off, building your own coils is ABSOLUTELY the way to go, it is much cheaper, more customizable, a better vape, and just plain fun. You are going to need a few things though.
Now that you have everything you can go to town! Remember, all of this is just my personal opinion and experience, do what works for you.
Planning: The Kanger works best at around 1.19 ohms at 50 watts but can go as low 0.4 ohms. To get an idea of how factors like different wire gauges or multiple coils will affect your resistance try simulating it on this page.
Wire Work: There are plenty of videos and tutorials out there for different coils but my advice would be to start simple. Once you can build a coil that has good tight wraps and learn how to remove the hot spots from it and are generally just comfortable coiling then move on to more fancy builds. The advantage of (almost all) advanced coils is more surface area for better wicking and juice retention, there are also the offbeat ones like staged (dual) heating. I am a big fan of simple twisted wire coils, they are incredibly easy and work much better than simple single wire coils.
Prepping The Wire: When you pull the wire off the spool be careful, if you don't hold tension the whole thing is prone to come unwrapped rather quickly. Work in longer lengths than you will actually need, screw ups are frequent and wire is cheap. Cut off a length of wire and you'll notice that it isn't exactly straight, or really at all, but this has an easy fix.
To straighten your wire: At one of the wire make a small 90 degree bend, insert this end into your drill with the wire centered and the bend sticking out the side, the bend allows the pincers to grab onto the wire. Grab the other end with a pair of pliers and apply light pressure (too much will cause the wire to snap). Start up your drill noting the direction it is spinning. It doesn't take more than a second or two, if the wire snaps it has spun more than enough (it tends to snap at either end but can be in the middle in which case you have to start over).
Annealing the wire: Thin wire like we use tends to be 'springy' making your coils unwind when you release tension, the thinner the wire the worse it gets. But again I have an easy fix. Holding the wire straight with tension, either with a vice grip or the drill or pliers or whatever you have, use a BIC lighter or a small flame to apply heat along the length of the wire. You want it to just start to heat up, not glow orange, if you see smoke coming off the wire move to another area because that one is done. Some people recommend dunking the wire in water when done but I just let it air cool.
[Optional] Making twisted wire: Take however many strands you wish to twist up and line up all of the ends with the 90 degree bend, cut the other end so that they are all equal lengths. Before inserting into your drill I find it helps to make a few 'starter twists' to keep the wires even and from coming undone. Remember how I said to make note of the direction your drill is spinning? Well it is time to spin in the opposite direction. Clamp your wire down in your pliers (not the drill) with the bent end sticking out a few millimeters. Grabbing the wires by the bends twist them by hand a couple times in the same direction as your drill is now spinning (opposite of the direction you used to straighten the wire). Now you can insert them into your drill. Start the drill slowly and don't go past a medium-high speed overall or the wire is more likely to snap, if it does it will 'unstraighten' on the end near the drill and become a mess to work with. If you are using a long length of wire (I would say over 8" but YMMV) it is best to release the wire halfway through and insert the opposite end into the drill (you do not need to reverse the direction of spin on the drill, it will work as is) because the end nearest the drill will twist the fastest this will provide a more even twist across the entire wire. It is totally up to you how much you want to twist the wire, if it snaps though it means you either went too fast on the drill or it has reached its limit of twisting (you can usually reinsert it and get a few more seconds of twisting out of it though).
Building a coil with the linked jig: I'm only going to cover using the jig I recommended up above because if I didn't I would be here for all eternity, ask 10 people how to make a coil and you will get 12 answers. That jig is super easy to use, cheap, and makes coils better than you ever will be able to by hand.
Start by selecting the inner diameter of your coil, the jig provides nails ranging from 1mm to 3mm. Unscrew the cap from the base unit, insert your chosen nail, and screw the cap back on over it. Insert your wire from the top through the small hole on the base and grip down on the end of the wire with your thumb, you only need to pull the wire down to where the cap screws on to get plenty long leads. Taking the other end of the wire (the long portion sticking out the top) give it a small start around the nail, a quarter or half turn is all it needs. Put the piece with the corresponding size hole (the piece you the nail is originally stored in / marked with the sizes) over the top of the nail, push it down making sure the wire is between the screw and the nail. Twist the corresponding piece to wrap the wire around the nail, this requires almost no pressure if you do apply pressure you will end up with a pancake and not a coil.
Once you have however many wraps you want push down on the base piece and the corresponding piece to put pressure/sandwich the coil. Hold this for at least 30 seconds to a minute, it will help tighten the coils and keep them from unwinding. Some people pull on the wire leads with pliers to tighten them up but I do not like doing this personally because it changes the number of wraps as well as causes the leads to be made from part of the coil (as in not straight leads).
Mounting your coil: Insert your coil leads onto your post and tighten them down. Be careful about over tightening or having your leads at strange angles as this can cause the coil to bend such that on one side the wraps do not touch and on the other overlap, it can also cause other weird deformities that ruin all the work up to this point. Roughly position your coils, using the nail from the coiling rig will help to keep the coil from getting bent. Make sure the coils are not touching anything as this will cause them to short. Clip your leads.
With your mod on a low to medium power setting begin to slowly pulse the device until the coils begin to glow. You want them to glow from the inside out, evenly, and at the same time. This will pretty much never happen right away. You are looking for spots that heat up unevenly. Using your ceramic tweezers squeeze and manipulate the coils, this is hard to describe but you'll understand it right away I'm sure. You can also use the coil jig nail to turn the coil and tighten the wraps (i.e. if the coil was originally inserted parallel to the deck insert the nail and twist it upwards to a 45 degree angle or even vertical, the amount varies from coil to coil but you can tell very easily by looking at it as you twist).
Permalink to Part II: https://www.reddit.com/r/RBA/comments/3xo2lv/rba_coil_question_newbie/cy6qbta
edit: Oh, and for those curious, I am currently running 3mm quad coils made from 2 strands of 32awg kanthal at 14 wraps each on the Sub Ohm Innovations RDA and the Kanger KBOX. They read in at 1.4 ohms and I fire them at 35-40 watts.
> GIVE A BRIEF DESCRIPTIVE TITLE ABOUT WHAT SPECIFIC USE(S) OR KEY REQUIREMENTS YOU HAVE
"Nah, they totally meant I should just post that exactly rather than giving a brief descriptive title about what specific uses or key requirements I have. "
Anyway, perhaps you'd like this one, the thrunite 2c then, if it's /got/ to be amazon. It's not really as good, but it does apparently have a kind of similar UI for the middle brightnesses.
Nice - you'll be glad to have that variety of tips, depending on what you are working on! If you have any spare Christmas money, I'd recommend picking up one of these self-adjusting wire strippers - it sort of matches your color scheme too! And if you do a lot of de-soldering (anything with lots of headers or through-hole IC sockets), a desoldering iron can save a ton of time compared to your solder wick and desoldering pump.
A few other things that I've found useful (mostly repairing electronic keyboards / synthesizers, although I'm hoping to get more into Arduino / Pi soon):
Hakko wire cutter
Hemostat / Forceps
Digital multimeter with audible continuity tester
I'll just give you a list of the items I've been using (and like):
https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-T18-D08-D12-D24-D32/dp/B00C1N30DI Hakko FX-888D. The extra tips may be unnecessary, I only ever use the one chisel tip
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00068IJPO Leaded solder
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00FZPDG1K Side cutters
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008O9VLA2 Solder Wick
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001B5JT8C Isopropyl Alcohol
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005CU56KM Acetone spray (use carefully/sparingly)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004G5T9M0 Jewelers loupe
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00P8Z4RPG Hot air station (works well despite Chinesium)
Also, I noticed in Dave's videos he rarely adds flux, just the flux that's built into the multicore solder. I don't know if I'm alone on this one but with flux I always felt the bigger the glob the better the job. Just have to clean it afterwards with the solvent, tissues & brushes.
Edit: Okay that's a much bigger list than I thought, this stuff can get expensive!
Most people will suggest skipping GW for paint and hobby tools to save money. I suggest hitting amazon for a pair of flush cutters, set of needle files, and pack of testors model cement. Krylon camo black spray paint is a fine substitute for expensive primers. Vallejo paints are a top reccomended brand, and there is a conversion chart to convert old and new gw colors to vallejo colors.
A set of just standard tac marines is a great place to start, you'll use them for sure and theres plenty there to work on technique, hit up the warhammer youtube channel, as they have painting tutorials that are really great, watch as many as possible as each has something you can use even if they aren't painting space marine models.
(Starting out you should be fine with just a zero, but if you really have moneh burnig a hole in your pocket a 1 and 00 would also come in handy eventually. Never leave your brush sitting in your water cup, don't let paint dry in your brush, and keep paint out of the metal part.)
Add an xacto and tube of superglue from your local superstore and you have all the tools needed to crank out perfectly acceptable models. I'll admit the brush is a bit overkill, but you're saving so much money on the rest of the tools, and a good brush makes the experience much more enjoyable, I suggest splurging there. Also don't bee fooled into buying a basing kit, regular old sand does just fine,
3x Northern Lights From Sensi Seeds
1x [Mars Hyrdo] (https://www.amazon.de/MARS-HYDRO-Wachsen-Vollspektrum-Pflanze/dp/B078Y74D67/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1546344239&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=mars%2Bhydro%2B600w%2Bled&amp;th=1)
Pulling 217W from the wall, honestly cant complain with the results so far.
I would have went with a QB if I knew about them earlier on, will switch it out once this one runs out I think.
Avg Temp is 24 degrees or 75,2 fahrenheit - The light is super cool and has two massive fans above it. This entire grow, the temperature was never an issue.
1 x Secret Jardin Hydro Shoot 80 R2.00 80x80x160 cm - Honestly a bit too small for 3 plants, will be running 2 next time around.
2 x Smart Plug - I got these from another site, at a higher price but they have been great. They allow me to see my exact wattage from the wall, my usages over 24hours/7days/1month. You can build in a schedule for your light and intake fan - that's why I got 2. Its all via an app, which has a kill switch built in so if you need to turn the setup off in seconds, you can do that remotely.
1 x AC Infinity Intake Fan + Carbon Filter
1x AC Infinity Multifan
1 x C02 Bag
3 x 5 Gallon Smart Pots (20L)
I have honestly no idea what I'm doing - I can provide an entire list of everything I ended up using if you want :)
The suggestions here are great and OP has probably picked one, but I wanted to share an alternative for anyone else that may be looking. I really enjoy my $15 Xtar PB2 paired with two 2500mah 18650 batteries. You can get the batteries for just under $4 each. This way you get lots of capacity and you can swap out batteries and it still costs less than the typical powerbank of that capacity. Also some devices use the batteries directly like this flashlight.
I carry this now. Perfect size for me and it's bright enough for my needs.
Streamlight 66318 MicroStream C4 LED Pen Light https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00143JZ08/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_5TABybCFHCKWQ
A few things I would probably get.
If you aren't looking for something super fancy or "tacticool" I would suggest either the:
StreamLight Stylus Pro
They both run on AAA batteries. I have the Stylus and it is fantastic.
Knife: Opinel Blade no8 ($14)
Flashlight: Streamlight pen light ($20)
Pen: Pilot G2 Limited ($9)
Mechanical Pencil: Pentel GraphGear 500 0.7 ($7)
Wallet: Recycled Firefighter ($9)
(Nearly) hard mode completed. $59 total.
I recommend the Streamlight Stylus Pro. It's durable, thin, economical, and easy to carry around. It puts out really good light for its size and you can activate the light by doing just a push-press, if you prefer, rather than a full click-press.
There's a thing you can buy that fills your bathtub with water in a plastic bag.
Honestly, for "cheap" headlamps go to Walmart, and buy extra batteries for whatever.
For "inexpensive" headlamps, see the sidebar article Arbitrary List section "Right Angle" and Small and Medium lights.
My choice would be the $30, fast shipping Wowtac A2S NW headlamp which includes light, li-ion battery, and USB charging. Buy an extra cell to effectively double the already long life. This light is comfortable to wear and reliable over hundreds of usages.
Also note that one Li-ion rechargeable battery has 3-4x the power of one alkaline AA battery. As to leaky alkaline cells, that would not be my choice to power an "emergency" light. That said, the best light is the one you have when you need it.
What kind of budget are we talking about here? Any preferred battery size?
Personally, my suggestion would be the Wowtac A1S or Wowtac A2S
Practice is everything. I could barely solder a cable but decided I wanted to start building up a few preamps from kits.
A solid, variable temp iron like this Hakko, some mounted alligator clamps and a magnifier are all solid investments.
But most importantly, practice. Go find some old battery operated toys or keyboards and practice desoldering and resoldering on a pcb is a great way to learn to steady your hand. If you want to learn some basics of circuit design, maybe tackle a GroupDIY project like a G-SSL comp or similar (plus you'll have a bomb-ass compressor).
I've been cut by many zipties.
CHP-170 Micro Cutter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FZPDG1K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_T20TBb4J30J3A
To leave them flush. Everyone who comes after will thankyou
For the sprues you need some actual sprue cutters
Nothing much more expensive than those as you really shouldn't run into a need for hard jobs from them
Should also consider some mini files
Something that really let you get at small angles, ideally you do these things before glueing but can be done after.
Doing everything with the exacto is definitely dangerous, and theres not often a need to put your hands in that much danger.
Lol. The toilet attachment. Amazon sells them for like $25-$50 dollars. Here is the one I have. Works wonders: Luxe Bidet MB110 Fresh Water Spray Non-Electric Mechanical Bidet Toilet Seat Attachment https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001KKRCFA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_sUOMxbB6MB71X
I bought this a while back. Pretty cheap as well.
Super fancy expensive ones do. There are cheaper options out there that don't.
I use this one
and it's totally adequate. It's been a great value for $25. It has plenty of pressure range and even in winter it's not too cold.
It doesn't require electricity and it connects right on to the existing plumbing with no specialized knowledge of plumbing.
This will change your life: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TPGPUW/ref=cm_sw_r_api_7axDxbCK08687
Bidet is the way to go! A few years ago this one was recommended somewhere on reddit, I bought it and love it (as a mom to a crohnie).
I have an older Consumer Reports on toilet tissue, I don't like Scott 1000 or Angel Soft (or Costco's version of it). I settled on Target's Premium Ultra Soft (or Ultra Strong, I couldn't really tell a difference) that was listed on my report as in the top 5 for dissolving/fewer clogs.
Finally, we also updated our (25 year old) toilets to American Standard Cadet 3 FloWise Tall Height 2-Piece 1.28 GPF Single Flush and haven't had a single clog yet in three years.
$27 with Prime.
3M Indoor Window Insulator Kit, 5-Window https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00002NCJI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_3qhdAbTWQ0RRR
I live in an older mobile home. Insulating windows is essential to not freeze
5 windows, $18. I did exactly zero shopping around, so you can probably get it for less than that.
3M Indoor Window Insulator Kit for 5 Windows https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00002NCJI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Kd.tybG6WQ7KC
Heat shrink. Something like this:
Should be available at any neighborhood hardware store. Goes on with a hair dryer and does as good a job as anything else would.
If you don't care so much about sunlight, a heavy blanket would work best.
I use a window insulation kit like this. I used them when I lived in Canada too. The gap between the window and the plastic you put up traps the air. I use those as well as curtains. Works well enough for me and I have cold urticaria and live in Nagano prefecture. Still alive! I've heard of peoples' windows cracking when they've taped something like the bubble wrap directly to it so I've been hesitant to try.
There are only handful of soldering irons that are the tried and true. Never buy from Radio Shack.
That bad boy will last you your whole lifetime and I've had a NASA engineer swear by it as it is what he uses at home.
This is what we have around the house/lab. It works well, and offers variable heat control, which is handy. It comes with tips that are pre-tinned, which makes it much easier to keep them tinned.
I'm sure you've thought of it, but just in case, make sure your solder is lead-free. Also, the lower temp stuff works better for PCB work. If you do get the Weller iron I linked to, 50% heat should be more than enough for PCBs.
This one is probably the cheapest one I'd recommend
I've gone through about a half a dozen of the $5-$15 radio shack irons before I finally decided to spend the money on a nice one. I had no idea what I was missing!
There are a few types. The cheapest one is just a hot pencil. You plug it in and it gets hot. It's not adjustable at all - it just gets up to whatever level of power it draws, regardless of the work it's doing. Typically they cycle between not-hot-enough and way-too-hot for whatever the job is. :-)
The second-cheapest kind is the same thing, but with a little selector switch, so you can switch between low and high. I think one of mine was 5W/15W. Same as before - it's a power level, not a temperature.
Third type is the same thing, but with more adjustments. You can vary the heat more accurately, but it's still only by power level, not actual temperature.
The good kind is the kind that measures its own temperature and tries to maintain it. You can turn the dial to the temperature you want, and no matter what the work is, it will heat up as needed to maintain that temperature.
I have the WESD51 (Digital display, adjustable temperature). It was expensive, but I got a good deal on it (only $10 or so more than the analog version). I was really sold on the temperature controls, and it makes a huge difference.
You'll have to carefully read specs to see if "Adjustable" means adjustable POWER or adjustable TEMPERATURE. Some irons will even say that they are adjustable temperature, but really they are just a hot-cold knob that adjusts power.
I shouldn't recommend a specific iron, since the only ones I've used are the terrible $5 ones and the WESD51, but I've heard good things about the WCL100. It seems to have decent reviews. If you can't justify the $80+ for a temperature-controlled iron like the WES51 or WESD51, look into this one, since it's only $40.
EDIT: I take that back! I should have listened to myself and NOT recommended it. As soon as I read the reviews I discovered that you can get a constant-temperature iron for around the same price! Something like This 850F or this 750F. In short - do your research! Temperature controlled is key!
ANOTHER EDIT: The work I'm doing is generally through-hole components and similar small electronics. I leave the temperature dial at around 700F most of the time. So if $80 for a true adjustable-temperature soldering station is too much to swallow, save money by getting a constant-temperature iron at the temperature you want, instead of getting a shitty adjustable-wattage iron.
If you get one of these then you can store potable water in the tub.
Amazon has a stone for 30 bucks. It's perfect. It comes with a stand and a case, is great for sharpening both western and Japanese steel, looks beautiful and doesn't break the bank. The brand is called a king stone or something like that. It stands up really well to professional use. My sous even dropped his and one side cracked in half but it still works beautifully.
Just take a look at "Customer Questions & Answers" of this monster!
I would suggest one of these. No matter what activity you do that day, you should be covered with that.
Sooooooo. This is a thing: http://www.amazon.com/Wenger-16999-Swiss-Knife-Giant/dp/B001DZTJRQ/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top?ie=UTF8
In the US, you can pick up one fairly cheap at Amazon.
My family made fun of me when I bought it. They said that is GROSS!
A month later, it is the most used toilet in the house.
Your asshole will thank you: http://www.amazon.com/Astor-Non-Electric-Mechanical-Attachment-CB-1000/dp/B003TPGPUW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1418861878&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=bidet
You can order one from amazon for $25.
Yes sir lol.
On sale, too. Took maybe 45 minutes to hook up and that was mostly me looking for a good adjustable wrench
Okay well have I got a surprise for you!
THIS IS THE ACTUAL THING YOU NEVER KNEW YOU NEEDED
Once you have it you will wonder why and how you lived so long without one.
Honestly people still just don't know what a modern bidet is, they still think its a separate unit entirely like the little sink
I try to explain to people that its $40 on amazon, installs in minutes with no tools, and lives right under your toilet seat. It makes you shower fresh after every poop and you end up saving money over time with the reduced TP/Wet Wipe consumption. It's completely hands free.
I evangelize about bidets like a 1920s automobile owner talking to his horse & buggy neighbor. Ya'll in the past doing it wrong.
What other mess do you NOT bring water into play to clean up?? Especially shit? You can wipe for days but you're never as clean as a constant adjustable stream of water can get you.
Hot Water model
I have one of those and one of these also.
I think these do a better job of shotgunning your chocolate starfish while the Luxe is better at 'DEEP' cleaning in there. I trade off which toilet I use in my house depending on how it's feeling before coming out.
I personally use this one and it's great
It's better to have one that has a controllable temperature setting. But then you have to know when to use what temperature. And they are expensive, but usually comes with a stand and sponge. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000AS28UC/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1495567186&amp;sr=8-4&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=Solder+iron&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41B9YPknwfL&amp;ref=plSrch
If you get a cheap one you will be fine while learning how to solder. The tips are really bad quality and doesn't heat evenly all the way around and you should have some sandpaper close to give it a good scrubbing between uses. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0006NGZK0/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1495567186&amp;sr=8-6&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&amp;keywords=Solder+iron&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41Tf73KQXQL&amp;ref=plSrch
Sorry, on mobile and I don't know how to edit the links without the editor help...
This or that
Both are excellent entry-level products with proven track-record and replacement parts are common and cheap. They will have a hard time melting pure tin solder however, but you must be masochistic to use that crap IMO. Just stick to eutectic solder.
One thing I find helpful is to wear a pair of Uvex SCT-Orange safety glasses. Those are what dentists use to protect themselves from the blue and ultraviolet light in their filling cure tools. There are lots of far more expensive products that are intended to do the same thing, but these safety glasses do a better job and are cheap as dirt.
Blue light is how your body determines whether it is day or night. Electronic screens like a laptop or phone emit a LOT of blue light due to the way they are color balanced. Wearing those an hour before bed helps me relax, because my brain has time to realize that no blue light = time to sleep. There is a program you can install on your computer called f.lux which tints you screen to accomplish the same thing.
Of course, being ADHD I am very very inconsistent in using these tools myself hah.... But at least I have them available!!
Around $100 would be a good start. I bought this one. But there is it's non-digital brother. It holds temp very well, (dial it right in with the digital display) even when soldering large battery connectors. Changes temps very quickly. It does everything I use it for. This hobby, fixing TVs, stereos and other electronics. Not quite a production station but it would hold up well in small runs.
Do get an assortment of tips. There are many types, pin point, various width flat heads, etc. What you need will depend on what you are soldering.
Than just take care of the tips. Always clean and tin them when done.
There are many brands out there. Weller has been around for a long time. This station just works for me.
I have this Weller WES51 and its been just great for me. not sure what could be better on a more expensive setup. Maybe more accurate temps or faster warm up? This seems completely capable for what im doing with it though.
I just use a lighter for all my heat shrinking. Is a heat gun much better than a simple lighter?
Get yourself a Weller WE-51 http://www.amazon.com/Weller-WES51-Analog-Soldering-Station/dp/B000BRC2XU
and some Kester 63/37 solder http://www.amazon.com/Kester-Rosin-Core-Solder-Dispense-Pak/dp/B00AVLM4SO/ref=sr_1_3?s=hi&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1454222158&amp;sr=1-3&amp;keywords=kester+63+37
That's all you need
If you want a station, there really are two which are the standard:
If you want just an Iron I would get a Weller Wp25, 30, or 35 depending on how hot you desire.
The radioshack Pro Line actually looks quite nice at $30(on sale for $20 this week)
Very good deal and nice quality, downside being they only sell one type of tip and it doesnt come in different wattages.
Assuming your windows are old/leaky and you can't modify or replace them, this is the way to go, OP.
It has clear plastic film that's a bit like shrink wrap and some double-sided tape. You basically stick a piece of the film over the entire window with some of the tape and then blast it with a hair dryer (optional) to tighten it up. It will stop any air from leaking through and be basically transparent.
That house will definitely give you some character! You will be a tough skinned, fast walking, don't talk to anyone you don't know New Englander in no time!
But seriously though, New England is one of the oldest European occupied locations in North America, we have some old friggin' houses and apartments here. I'm in Rhode Island, although I'm in Boston constantly, but same deal applies. Here are some pro-tips for surviving winter in really old houses.
First, get yourself some shrink wrap plastic for the windows, it's in your local hardware store and even Amazon has some. Don't put this up until at least mid-October though, we can get random 70-80F degree days through Oct. 31, doesn't happen constantly, but it happens. You also want to get some under the door draft stoppers. You can get them for all outside doors or just the door to your bedroom, either way they help.
Next, get yourself multiple layers of blankets for the bed. I do this so I can pull them off/layer them up when late fall/early winter nights spike 55 degrees one night and 25 degrees the next. So it's sheets first, then a thin blanket, then a full quilt and lastly, a thick blanket that sits at the foot of your bed that can be pulled up when freezing at night (or left to just warm your feet). I have a fake fur one that is really thick for the last layer of defense.
Last, dress yourself in warmer clothes! As you are Canadian, I'm sure you can manage this, even if you are from a milder city. But dressing warmly in your own house is the most critical. I have ultra winter lounge pants, these in fact, which are very expensive, but you don't need those in particularly, you can just find furry pants like those. Wear those and thick wool socks when in your house or even sleeping (if it's that cold, I can't sleep in pants personally). I will wear these with a fake fur lined hoodie when home, so if it's really freezing cold you can pull the hood up.
That should help some! Welcome to New England and go Blue Jays...next year we'll get 'em (ugh). I'm a native New Englander but lifelong Jays fan (long story).
Frequently stained glass gets protected by a sheet of clear plate glass outside of it. That would take care of the leakage problem.
I lived in an apartment (first floor of an old house) with stained glass windows and they had horrible leakage around the lead lines...you could literally feel a breeze close up to the window...my heating bill went to 1/3 when I sealed all the windows with that clear plastic film on the inside, but glass outside would have been much better. It was not mine to remodel though.
It has been said by others, but let me repeat for emphasis: Layers. I know lots of people that bitch about the cold but only wear a coat over a T-shirt. Come winter, I'm wearing some kind of undershirt/thermal, a flannel/chamois/wool shirt, a vest and then a coat. Merino wool socks are awesome. Smartwool is the name brand, but you can find store brands that are much cheaper. I would suggest some kind of waterproof shoe or boot for the snow.
Get several pairs of gloves. You will lose them and going to the store with one glove sucks. I personally think glommits are the bee's knees. Warmth+dexterity when needed. Embrace the hat and have fun with it.
People have talked about a winter kit for your car, which is a good idea, but how about your house? If you have newer, quality windows (double pane Low E glass) you probably don't need to do anything, but if you live in an older house with old, drafty windows getting window film might be a good idea. If you have a drafty door, there are many adhesive-backed foam strip products to help seal those up.
Bundle up and try to enjoy winter. To me there are few things as beautiful as a crisp sunny day after a fresh snow, where everything sparkles and glimmers. So long as you're inside and drinking a cup of coffee that is.
EDIT: spaces after links.
Keep in mind that some of the people in this sub are professionals and they are only going to suggest pro gear. And while I agree with them that a really great iron is a great idea, you can get away with something cheaper than $100 and still get great results.
The iron you posted is probably crap considering how cheap it is. That same iron direct from China is like $5, so that will tell you something. If I can suggest something in between a Hakko and the toy, I've used this iron regularly for years: https://smile.amazon.com/Weller-WLC100-40-Watt-Soldering-Station/dp/B000AS28UC
You do not need, and probably do not want a top tier soldering iron for working on a guitar. The big gains on expensive soldering irons are digitally controlled temperature, faster heat up, more tip options, and a lot of extra cost.
The orange Weller is $40, and does everything you could want for working on a guitar.
There are plenty of youtubes that give good instruction, it's very simple to get started. Most common mistake people new to it make is thinking about it like the solder tip is used to paint the solder on the components, when it is just used to heat up the components so the solder will flow into/onto them once they get up to heat. Solder will flow to areas above its melting temp, so you heat the components with the tip, and dab the solder wire at the junction of the components, the solder will flow to these hot areas, then you just want enough heat in the area so when it cools, it doesn't cool too unevenly which can lead to cold solder joints, but you don't want enough heat that you damage the components. For most applications I usually touch the tip to the area for 1-3 seconds, dab the solder on with the tip still on the area, remove the solder and then let the iron sit for another second (with a 40 watt iron set at about 85%). Other times you will require more time as the component will act like a heat sink and take longer to bring up to the temp where solder will melt and adhere, like the back of potentiometers for grounds or amp chassis for grounds. For removing solder, use some Chemtronics solder wick, which is thinly braided wire which you can heat on the component and the solder will run up into the wick through capillary action.
This is probably the most widely used soldering station, it's relatively inexpensive and fine for most applications, I've built multiple tube amps, done a lot of tube amp maintenance, and built around 50 or so guitar pedals with it.
Wowtac A2S is a great starting light if you don't want to spend as much as a Zebralight starting out. You could always keep it as a backup if you decide to get something fancier too.
Depending on how technically inclined you are, I'd consider swapping out the LED for something high CRI (I put an LH351D in one, and it's much better) and maybe a TIR lens if you want more peripheral vision.
T-molding. You need to cut "V" notches to go around an outside corner like in that photo. To go around an inside corner, you need slits. No need for a special notching tool (they are very expensive), you can do everything with a cheap pair of wire clippers like this:
Use a rubber mallet to tap it into the slot.
I own 3 of these. They are good robust basic multimeters. For learning this is plenty. The thermocouple function is one of those things that you didn't know you needed until you had it. As you progress you will probably find that you wish you had more multimeters before you wish you had better multimeters.
With the money you save, I highly recommend some test clips, some wire cutters / strippers, and perhaps some side cutters (links to the ones I recommend).
and if you dont have a smart tv, you can get one of these and plug your tv into it (though it might not be a good idea to pull the plug on your tv all the time)
You will want a flashlight with an electronic side switch to operate. They do not require much strength to turn on and cycle through modes.
Something like the [Thrunite Neutron] (https://www.amazon.com/ThruNite-Neutron-2C-Neutral-White-2017/dp/B06XXFC1VN/?tag=parametrek-20) would be my suggestion if it fits within your budget. You get the light, a battery and the ability to charge without having to purchase a separate charger.
With that said, you might not want to fumble with usb cables. If you are like my daddy was he got to a point that something like opening the charge port and plugging in the cable became challenging as well.
If that is your case I would suggest looking at this that can function with AA primaries. It can also take the higher powered 14500 that you do have to charge but if your condition progresses to the point that becomes burdensome you can still use the light with regular AA's
My eternal suggestion for these types posts is the WowTac A1S, which has the advantages of both being cheap and including a micro-USB rechargable 18650 battery of decent quality. Simple on/off from the tail switch, and then there is a side switch to change modes (my dad has never quite figured how reverse-clicky switches work).
However, the low mode is pretty high at 24 lumens and a moonlight mode might serve your purpose better, at which point there are two nicer lights that I would put forward - the Thrunite Neutron 2C V3 or TN12. The Neutron is an e-switch only light that is controlled via one button and has shortcuts to both low and high. The TN12 is a nicer version of the aforementioned A1S with a nicer driver and a lower low mode, but as far as I can tell it does not come with a battery.
There are also a few AA/14500 size lights that you might be interested in, like the
Sofirn SC31or Wuben E05 (The SC31 is 18650... Still a viable option but way bigger than I thought).
Hope this helps!
Phone: iPhone 5c + cheap Spigen case
Watch: Seiko SKX007 + Super Oyster II Bracelet
Wallet: Radix One
Keychain: Remove Before Flight tag, Sandisk Ultra Fit, Dollar Store Carabiner
Keychain Multitool: Victorinox Classic OR Leatherman Micra
Multitool: Leatherman Skeletool
Flashlight: Streamlight Microstream
Pen: Fisher Space Pen OR Modded Zebra 701
Yoyo: The Sage (for now)
First post, any questions or suggestions please feel free. Thanks guys!
Flashlight my dude, you won't be able to go back after carrying one.
Going by the rest of the stuff you carry i'd say a small AAA light that you can either attach to your keys or clip inside a pocket.
A couple of recommendations:
To clip on to keys: The Olight i3 EOS. 1xAAA 90 lumens, 45min runtime. Simple twist on/off, one mode, plenty bright for most daily stuff. If you want something multi-mode still good for your keys, the Thrunite Ti3 and Lumintop AAA Tool are honourable mentions too.
To clip to your pocket: The Streamlight Microstream. 1xAAA 45 lumens, 2.5hr runtime. Solid pocket clip and push-button that lends itself to be a really good momentary light but can be clicked on for continuous use. Really solid light, inexpensive, Tried and trusted by a lot of the EDC community. Honourable mention goes to the Streamlight Stylus Pro. Almost the exact same light but longer. 2xAAA, 90 lumens, 6 hour runtime if you don't mind the weight of an extra AAA on you.
Second the flashlight.
Streamlight Micro Stream
Because no matter how clean you think you made your tub, it isn't the best vessel for storing potable water. It is literally a vessel meant for catching the rinsed filth off your body. If you want to store potable water in your tub, get a liner https://www.amazon.com/WaterBOB-Emergency-Container-Drinking-Hurricane/dp/B001AXLUX2
If you're filling up your bathtub with emergency water, you could get something like this to keep it more sanitary: http://i.imgur.com/IrdgkV0.jpg
Pizza's idea of the Sawyer was an excellent suggestion and would be one of my top recommendations as well. To hit some other categories for ideas:
Anyway, just some suggestions. Hard to get too crazy on a budget. I'm sorry I missed the exchange but I signed up to give someone who gets screwed something so I'm sure I'm gonna help someone out.
Toilet paper? What's that?
I've had a constantly immaculate butthole without a hint of soreness for nearly 2 years, ever since I got my bidet (the linked one just happens to be the one I got, but there are countless others in that price range on Amazon).
Seriously, even during a flare when I'm shitting 10-15 times a day, my butt feels pretty damn good in between all the crimson and mocha explosions.
Sorta lied; I actually still use paper, but only to pat my butt dry after washing it with the bidet. I use the Cottonelle aloe/Vitamin E infused stuff and I go through about one roll every two weeks when I'm not flaring.
Just get a bidet add-on, like this. Baby wipes are nice, but they're a lot more expensive than regular toilet paper, and the bidet is something you'll only pay for once. Also, I like knowing that my asshole is clean enough to eat off of. Just take my word for it.
From left to right:
TAC Force TF-705GY Knife
WizGear 3-in-1 Stylus Pen w/ Flashlight
Streamlight 88061 ProTac 1L-1AA Dual Fuel Ultra Compact Flashlight
Czech Pipe Tool
Streamlight 73001 Nano Light
Silicon Power 32 GB Flash Drive
N82 Tactical Pro Tandem Holster
Polo Bi-fold Wallet
Nexus 6P with Spigen Case and Popsocket
CakCity Sport Watch
with Stainless Steel Aggressive Crenulated Bezel Fit for Nitecore
Get a bidet attachment instead. It will quickly pay for itself in saved toilet paper and be much more forgiving to your septic tank.
For less messy amazon links you can extract the part after "/dp/" in
and make it:
Or via smile link:
Plz send any recommendations via PM
I have the Astor 1000 and it works great. Just a simple attachment to your toilet seat. Comes with a stainless steel braided line too. No heaters or other bells and whistles to break, just a plain and simple adjustable spray. Careful, the high setting will make you jump a few feet in the air. The heaters are not needed, you don't really feel the cold down there. I got mine on amazon for about $20. I will never go back to paper. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TPGPUW/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_mob DTH
a few months back, i installed a bidet, this model, on my shitter at home.
it's a little hard to "aim" at first, but i can't tell you how much i recommend this over regular old tp/butt wipes. i never realized how nice it was having a confidently clean butthole.
How to save on TP even more:
No worries man,
Plate, PCB and case
How to build a 60%
How to use QMK firmware
How to flash your keyboard
If you are still needing more help or guidance, shoot me a PM.
I gotta disagree with this one... Don't bother screwing around, just buy a Hakko 888D.
I would buy the $20 Weller at Home Depot. Works well, I've soldered maybe 6 or 7 deans connectors and a few traxxas connectors with no issue. Or pony up and buy the Hakko.
Has he applied for any jobs yet? I was given one of those leather pads with paper inside and a holder for resumes (something like this) except it was from my undergrad university with their emblem. Definitely gives you some confidence for interviews and recruiting sessions. Also you can get him some nice resume paper to go with it. That lasted me for years.
I also enjoyed having one or two of these demotivational posters in my room. Depends on his humor and if he has barren walls like I did.
If you know more details about which raspberry pi he has, you could get some shield extensions. These are boards that expand its capabilities. There are also newer boards with better specs. Also with two boards you can of course make them talk to each other ;)
Depends on his area of interest and your budget, but you could get him some kind of [introductory FPGA kit] (http://store.digilentinc.com/fpga-programmable-logic/) or DE0-Nano.
Tools... so many tools he might be interested in. USB logic analyzers are so cheap these days and go well with hobby boards. Again not sure your budget, so you can go all sorts of ranges here (Open Workbench Logic Sniffer or scanaplus or Saleae Logic 8 or a china clone of Saleae Logic 8). Saleae or the knockoff I think are the better options for the software compatibility. He may be in need of a soldering iron or a multimeter.
Something else unique, you could get him a "gift card" (they don't really sell them) or an IOU to a PCB printing service. Ask him to design his own board and you'll pay $X of the service. You'll want to make sure he knows the price structure on the website because they charge per square inch and it depends on his design how many layers he may need. He makes the schematic and they will print some circuit boards for him. They won't mount the parts, just do the schematic and he would have to hand solder the components.
If he likes old videogames you could get him some old school USB controllers and tell him to install lakka on his rasberry pi, or just get him a new Raspberry Pi3 to dedicate it as an old-school console emulator. It is quite impressive how many consoles they have emulated.
And back to more tools... more micro screwdriver bits than you would actually need. You can get him a starter pack of resistors, capacitors, and other assorted electronics sparkfun. There are also so many buttons, switches, LED screen displays, etc. that he probably wouldn't want to buy on his own. Maybe you could get a container with an assortment of circuit components (resistors, capacitors, transistors, and other sensors). Careful! This can add up real quick. All types of sensors exist... ultrasonic rangefinder, stress, photocell, temperature, etc. etc. endless!.
It's what was suggested to me when I asked the same question here, and I honestly love it.
I recently made two purchases which have rocked my shitting world. The first is the Squatty Potty - crappy name, good idea. It changes your pooping posture to one more like squatting, which means less pushing, less hemorrhoids and less wiping. After hearing about this, I tried for a while just putting my feet on the trash can and other things, but it's way easier and more comfortable to just get the stool (in my opinion). EDIT: Read closer and see that you're already squatting, but I still recommend the stool if you don't have one.
Second, I got a bidet attachment for my toilet. There are MANY to choose from, but I got the lowest priced one on Amazon and have been very pleased. This is a simple device that just provides a stream of cool water to your bum to spray off the poo. Then you use a bit of toilet paper or cloth (your bum is clean, so no poo stains to wash off) to just dry off.
Between the two, I barely use toilet paper anymore, and I also used to need to use quite a lot to clean up. The downside to these purchases is that I'm now completely spoiled at home and miss them deeply when I travel.
I got a squatty potty several weeks ago but TBH haven't found it to make a difference for me. I just have weird bowels I guess.
Installed a bidet attachment today, though. Total pain in the ass (heh) to install, since the toilet is right up against the vanity in my bathroom. No room to get in there, every goddamn nut was seized up, and then somehow I managed to break the fill valve in the toilet. When I turned the water back on, the cap on the fill valve shot off like a fucking rocket and I had a geyser of water hit me directly in the face. My husband ran out to get us a new fill valve while I wept. When he got back with it, I disassembled everything, put the new fill valve in, and then it all went in easy breezy and the bidet shoots water directly at my asshole with laser precision.
This is the correct answer.
That's the one I got, took all of 5 minutes to install. I can't imagine not having one now, just seems so unsanitary. I mean, if I got poop on my hands would I be content to just wipe it with a dry napkin and call it good?
Seriously a bidet is pretty much a pressure water up your ass. They are only $25 and pretty awesome
This is the one I have. You can buy one that has a hook up for hot water as well but my tap water isn't cold for whatever reason so it doesn't bother me to just have a cold water line. It uses the water that would eventually run to the tank. It's basically like using the water from your sink line--I know a lot of people think that its uses "toilet bowl" water but it doesn't. It's really easy to install. I actually have reinstalled it on a different toilet in my house and it worked on both. You do have to buy little spacers to attach to the bottom of your toilet seat since the bidet attachment makes the back of the seat sit a bit higher than the front. Again, they're really easy to install/uninstall. Definitely get the ones that screw on so they don't fall off one day into the toilet.
To use you just stay seated and SLOWLY turn on the knob. The one I have linked has SUPER HIGH water pressure but maybe there are models that aren't so strong. Do NOT turn it on while you're standing in front of it "just to make sure it works". I shot myself in the chest the first time I tested it hahahaha. Lots of guests also get curious and turn it on while standing in front of the toilet instead of sitting and end up getting shot in the chest or face. It's hilarious. My father in law for shot in the forehead with the water!
All in all its a 45$ investment if you use the same set up I did--definitely worth the money and if you can always upgrade to a different model if you end up liking it!
There are handheld type options that look like a shower head but they require maneuvering on the toilet and seem like more trouble than just staying seated.
I tried moist wipes for a while but a lot of them have alcohol in them and seemed to dry out more than they helped.
Sorry for the long winded response, hope it was helpful!
$35 bidet and joy can be yours.
You gotta buy one of these
This is the one we got:
You can install yourself - super quick and easy
I mean....... I ain't rich but my butthole feels like a million dollars!
i got a bidet attachment from amazon about a year ago, and it has been the best $30 i've spent. this one is super easy to install and very affordable:
No need for power outlets or complicated setups. These bidet attachments fit on almost any toilet and simply tap into the fresh water that goes into the toilet bowl. You can add it in a rental apartment no problem. It's not warm water but that doesn't really matter. Almost all of my friends have these now and everyone swears by them.
This is what they're talking about https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A0RHSJO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_k1p8AbPW6BASR
For the longest time, I used wet wipes. They get expensive over time.
I bought one of these, spent 20 minutes installing it. Haven't looked back since.
That's the one I have.
Somehow I’ve managed to still not buy the SP36. Maybe we can be a winner. As always thanks so much for the giveaway!
SP36 this is a great flashlight right at the price point but if you dont like the shape you could also get the Sofirn C8F for under budget which also has a great combination beam on it, and my favorite light for walking my dog
I've never liked 72hours' kits, but I suppose they are easy if you want a click and forget experience. They do have the best prices on the #5 food grade Mountain House dehydrated food tins though. 20 year shelf life and you can take them camping to rotate your supply. Unfortunately they're packed with sodium.
In the event of a moderate earthquake or prolonged power outage, you can assume that you will be able to return to your home after the utilities have been checked and/or turned off. The key things you need to do are to save what food and water you can. 72 hours is wildly optimistic, in a city supplied by bridges on all sides I'd think the average prepared family should be able to sustain itself for at least a week. Some people buy a big turkey after Christmas and leave it in a deep freeze only to serve as an ice block in case the power fails. Water is the larger concern though.
By that, having a sink adapter for a water filter is invaluable. So is a bath tub waterBOB if you don't have space to stockpile flats of water or aquatainers. Assuming the water still has slight pressure, even if the pipes have cracked and the water is now contaminated with rust or dirt, as long as you can get some of it into a BOB (or even just a bathtub, just, be aware that bathtubs are notoriously filthy), you can treat it. Even toilet water... Having aquatabs, an aforementioned filter or even iodine (5-10 drops per quart) can easily get a bathtub full of dirty water into drinkable condition.
I think people almost fantasize about heading out into a park, setting up camp and defending their homestead. In an emergency event, you will want to be in your home. Authorities want you to be in your home. The backpacks on their websites... they're not going to keep you alive. A proper bugout bag needs to have clothes, money, medication, luxuries to keep children calm, high protein snacks, some water and more money. Any bug out bag will not keep you alive for a week, it's just not possible to carry that much alone. Focus on having enough to keep you alive while not being able to return to your home for 24 hours, because the chances are you will be able to return. In all likeliness you will end up in an emergency shelter which will have food and water, but not the personalized things mentioned above.
So the shitty tube tent, the $1 plastic parka, the gardening gloves, the water juiceboxes.. all that junk in the 72 hour bag.. you may find it useful but in all honesty it's not going to help you for fuck all in 99% of the emergencies we may experience in BC.
Not sure if this is common knowledge, but you can flush a toilet by filling the bowl with water. Obviously water will be scarce, but you can reuse any gray water you may have, i.e. from washing.
If you're planning to bug in, or at least want it as an option, I highly recommend getting a water bob. That link is to Amazon, but I'm sure you can get it a little cheaper. Well worth every penny and can help in any situation. For example if a big storm is coming, you can fill up one of your tubs and have fresh potable water just in case something happens, i.e. power outage or contamination.
This works well. I've used it before. Actually this might be different cause it was cheaper
WaterBOB Emergency Drinking Water Storage (100 Gallons) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001AXLUX2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_byWRzb5RZPS2Q
For your money, there's nothing better to start with than a King 1k/6k combo stone. I personally hate long soaking stones (splash and go is the way to do it imo), but it has fantastic feedback and lets you practice/develop your muscle memory on the cheap.
Alright I'll bite. Hand tool shop
Narex Chisels 48.99
stanley Jack plane 59.99
stanley Smoother 45.00
Stanley low angle Block plane 31.25
HF combo square 6.99
HF Mallet 5.99
Stanley jointer 150
Sharpening stone (water) 33
Panel saw 1 (cross) 19.50
Panel saw 2 (rip) 16.99
Marking gage 20
Dovetail saw 26.82
marking knife 9
Total cost so far: 500.97
shipping from ebay depends on where you are but shouldn't be more than $60 so we factor that in:
build your own bench (not going to take the time to go into details but it shouldn't cost more than $500 for materials
so now you have
999.03 left to get whever else you want (more marking gages? switch some of the above for better stuff? spoke shave? cabinet scraper? router plane? brace and bit?)
You could get better prices for the ebay stuff above if you were patient that's just what's out there right now. the above is more than enough to do 90% of handtool projects though. Just watch those compound curves ;)
Swiss Army Knives? Buy one for $1371 and it replaces all 228 different tools around your house, eliminating the need for a toolbox.
Now whether it will save you time actually trying to find what you need, is a different matter.
Hold my beer.
If you're under 18 YO you're only allowed to carry the Wenger 16999 Swiss Army Knife
first off - great kudos to you having those Aquatainers - it's a major omission mistake newbie preppers make - moving those containers is one of the lesser problems to solve - there's always wheels and a beefy back in the barter ....
eazy to store for apartment dwellers are 2.5 & 5 gallon poly collapsible jugs - good handle arrangement and durable overall - sqeeze store into those nooks & crannies and deploy for SHTFs ....
suggestion on water jug carry - a yoke is your friend - a 5 gallon container on each end (80lbs) is very doable for most middle aged men - even over rough open ground where wheels are a no-go ....
apartment preppers - you need a WaterBob for your bathtub .... https://www.amazon.com/WaterBOB-Emergency-Drinking-Storage-Gallons/dp/B001AXLUX2
I bought one of these (you do need a tub). Seemed like a good investment. https://www.amazon.com/WaterBOB-Emergency-Container-Drinking-Hurricane/dp/B001AXLUX2/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?ie=UTF8&qid=1536781041&sr=8-1-spons&keywords=water+bob&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/WaterBOB-Emergency-Drinking-Storage-Gallons/dp/B001AXLUX2 keep forgetting to buy this
I just looked for a waterBOB and they are out of stock. There is one seller trying to sell it for $255.77.....https://www.amazon.com/gp/offer-listing/B001AXLUX2/ref=sr_1_1_olp?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1504636705&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=Emergency+Drinking+Water+Storage&amp;condition=new
For $120 and two knives, there is the omnipresent starter option - the Tojiro DP line.
I'd start with the gyuto or the santoku. They overlap for the larger tasks and its really more preference on the shape. They both are too thin and the steel is too brittle to cut bones or hard vegetables (pumpkin/squash) with (which your Wusthof can take care of) but will go through veg and protein pretty easily.
Then you have budget left over for the petty, which is kind of like a long thin paring knife. Good for smaller tasks or things that need delicate tip work.
you might even have some budget left over to pick up a stone. This is a popular beginner option.
Edit: The other option is MAC knives. Same shapes apply
Don't waste time with those sharpening systems. Buy two good quality whetstones, a 1000 grit and a 6000 grit and learn to use them. It's not difficult and the result is so much better. While not the best around, this is a really good start and even cheaper than the Lansky system.
I think the general consensus on those sharpeners is that they don't work really well. From other knife sharpening posts, the products I've heard most about are the swing arm type of sharpeners, like this, stationary angled sharpening stones like this or getting fancy whetstones, like this.
Foursevens Maelstrom XM18,Wenger 16999,AH-64 =)
Here's a good one if you're looking for something simple and low price.
Here you go
I had a bidet growing up and up until 2 years ago when I moved out. I had this baby ordered and installed before the 1st week of living on my own was over. It's such a clean asslife I live and pretty sweet on the wallet.
My husband is a convert.
you can at least have the bidet http://smile.amazon.com/Luxe-MB110-Non-Electric-Mechanical-Attachment/dp/B001KKRCFA/ref=sr_1_2?s=kitchen-bath&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1452993943&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=bidet
Also, if you want something less interactive I suggest you get one of these
Really easy to install and clean.
No. You stop wiping once you reach your taint.
Also, when you start using wet wipes instead of only dry toilet paper to wipe your ass is the day you start to get cleaner.
I've actually been convinced by the experience of Redditors in another thread here to go with the $40 bidet installed on my toilet. It gets here in a few days, and I think my days of dry wiping will be over then.
gerber shard !
Whiskey is absolutely not too boring. :)
The core material EDC, to me would be knife, light and cellphone. But cool keychain gidgets are really nice too.
So I'd say if you have a knife, a good flashlight would be next, then a backup knife and light (one is none, two is one). I like a multi-tool or SAK for my backup knife, and a keychain light for my backup torch.
(In case you're curious, after that I start considering footwear, gloves, hats and other clothing.)
(Sorry, I'm feeling a bit lazy, so you'll have to live with bare links.)
This one is pretty popular for keychain use: www.amazon.com/iTP-A3-EOS-Flashlight--Upgrade/dp/B006K5C2EG/
Fenix has single AA and 123 powered lights that are well regarded and compact:
There are a lot of other brands worthy of consideration too, of course (Fourseven's mini, Jetbeam, Klarus, Zebra, just to name a few).
There are also a lot of much larger but more capable flashlights out there.
Keychain stuff is always nice:
I use these sliver grippers way more than I thought I would. The convenience of always having them around is unparalleled: http://www.amazon.com/UNCLE-BILLS-SLIVER-GRIPPER-TWEEZER/dp/B001KMSUA4
I've been thinking of getting this, I'm a little leery about that much stuff for so little cost though: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003A5E5IK
I love this style of keyring, but it's way cheaper on eBay: http://www.amazon.com/Vigilant-Gear-Aircraft-Cable-Ring/dp/B006ZSP1PA
Little one-piece keychain tools have become really popular, and I really like having a little prying and screwing tool always present.
The Gerber Shard is cheap but probably at least worth what you pay for it: http://www.amazon.com/Gerber-22-01769-Shard-Keychain-Tool/dp/B002ZK45IQ
This one has a bit more functionality, and is made of the magically delicious titanium: http://www.amazon.com/Schrade-Chain-Tool-Seatbelt-Cutter/dp/B004PQJ1QO
Keychain multi-tools can be good.
Here's one from Gerber: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006M9NIDO
Supposedly the build quality isn't as good as Leatherman's though: http://www.amazon.com/Leatherman-64010101K-Micra-Multi-tool/dp/B000JCN0FG
I'd also recommend looking for a glow in the dark lanyard.
A pen you can EDC is another "you're surprised how often you use it" item. I have an Inka and it's definitely alright, though a bit fiddly: http://www.amazon.com/Nite-Ize-Inc-Inka-Pen/dp/B001E6R6EM/
The biggest competitor is the classic Fisher Bullet Space Pen: http://www.amazon.com/Fisher-Space-Pen-Bullet-400B/dp/B000WGD13U
Something to write on is nice. I'm a real child of the digital age, but I still like having an analog recording medium on me. I prefer Pentalic's pocket size books to Moleskine's. They're a little thicker, but they have a flexible cover, and are usually cheaper. Here's one: http://www.amazon.com/Pentalic-Travelers-Sketch-3-Inch-4-Inch/dp/B0025TZ35Q but I don't know if it's ruled or grid or what. I also prefer a bright color cover to make it easy to spot.
Continuing on the writing stuff matter, a sharpie and/or a metallic (ink) sharpie are nice to have. You can get sharpies with stainless steel cases too, which feel nicer to hold, and you're a little less likely to forget somewhere.
Black (dozen): http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00006IFEP
Stainless Steel: http://www.amazon.com/Sharpie-Stainless-Permanent-Marker-1747388/dp/B001V9LQLG
I think everybody should carry some sort of bandanna. I carry an off-brand buff (tubular bandanna) and an olive drab shemagh.
I like to carry a small baggie of what I call MacGuyver goods. Paracord (bound up in a hanayawa right now), some gorilla tape and electrical tape wrapped around a card, super glue, a sewing kit, zip ties, twist ties, rubber bands, safety pins, binder clips, and a few 1 quart ziplock freezer bags. (Like hell I'm finding links for all of those.)
Yet another "surprising how useful it turns out to be" item is a small mirror: http://www.amazon.com/Coghlans-Featherweight-Mirror/dp/B0047QV44O/
Whistles are useful for warning people of fire or danger, or calling for help, so I like to carry one: http://www.amazon.com/Fox-40-Whistle-Breakaway-Lanyard/dp/B00544UJC6
A monocular is fun to have on your person. This particular model is really great because of its super low minimum focusing distance, which lets you use it as a sort of loupe. In regular mode it's good for looking for house numbers or your car in a parking lot, that sort of thing: http://www.amazon.com/Brunton-Echo-7x18-Pocket-Scope/dp/B000FKMTBS
I think that's all I could come up with off the top of my head.
je traine sur /r/frugal et comme idée cadeau j'ai trouvé cette année :
This is a great thread for discussion. If I may add...
Want to improve your home life, be more hygienic, and save money on toilet paper? Buy a bidet on amazon prime for $27. I found out about these on another reddit thread last month, and I couldn't be happier with my purchase!
You'll never want to poop anywhere but home ever again
I bought that one for my BIL so it’s no wonder he never thanked me haha.
I have this one Astor Bidet Fresh Water Spray Non-Electric Mechanical Bidet Toilet Seat Attachment CB-1000 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TPGPUW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_npy3Cb5BM1YVM
Wowtac A2S LED Headlamp LED Headlight 5 Modes Max 1050 Lumen USB Rechargeable 18650 Battery Waterproof Headlamps, Super Bright Outdoor Sports Running Walking Camping Reading Hiking Riding Fishing https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071HW5XQH/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_wu.TAbCC4SCAZ
I have the A1s and am very happy with it, going to start getting into bicycling to lose some weight.
This will help after dark.
(Keeping fingers crossed)
Thanks either way, made me poke around where I didn't look before.
Do you have any more info on what you'll be doing with it exactly? Is this a "take the dog out" kind of light?
The Wowtac A1S or A2S are both good, bright lights. The A2S is a headlamp, but you can take it out of the headband and use it normally, and a headlamp can come in handy sometimes. They both come with a removable battery that has built-in microUSB charging. The "neutral white" version of either light is recommended for more pleasant light.
Wowtac A2S Neutral White
Thanks in advance for your consideration!
Even worse. That light is probably 300 lumens.
I would recommend this one instead:
Choosing the A2S Neutral White version, it includes a very good battery, and is a real 1000 lumens out of the light.
It can also be used as both a headlamp, and a flashlight! A multi use light.
just get this https://www.amazon.com/Weller-WES51-Analog-Soldering-Station/dp/B000BRC2XU/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1467263305&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=weller
I'd really recommend getting a variable temp iron. Finding that sweet spot around 670 degrees will save you a lot of grief. Not sure what weller sells in 220v models but this guy is a good deal
Or, you know, spend 10 bucks, and look like a retard.
The "don't go to sleep for a night and go to bed early the next day" advice won't work for you if you have Delayed Phase Sleep Syndrome.
The only solution that worked for me (and my situation was almost desperate) was changing my eating patterns (particularly the timing) and avoiding blue light spectrum after sunset. Your body should associate light + socializing + food with the time of the day you should be awake. If you stay in front of your computer at night watching videos and eating the brain and body think it's daytime and your schedule will get really messed up.
and wear them after sunset if you are at home (it is very important to avoid watching computer and mobile screens in the evenings before bedtime...I do it anyways but ALWAYS wear the glasses). Upon waking up, go for ten minutes under the sun, or get the room very bright (you can buy a blue light spectrum device such as http://www.amazon.com/Philips-GoLITE-BLU-Energy-Light/dp/B00M3SGCUE/ref=sr_1_10_a_it?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1458086966&amp;sr=8-10&amp;keywords=blue+light).
In theory one day should be enough. One day didn't work for me, but I have severe Delayed Phase Sleep Syndrome, my situation was desperate, and nothing worked...this literally changed my life. I did it for several days. Usually nowadays I don't eat after 18:30pm. if I'm at home. and I eat as soon as I'm awake
Apologies for my English. If this helped you, please help me improve my English by correcting my mistakes.
Wow no comments....
EDIT: Serious question: name everything you can remember eating this week, because maybe you're not eating enough because this is worrying you, I'm just trying to get all possibilities out there.
1 GO OUTSIDE for at least 30 minutes. Preferably in the EARLY morning, 7-8 A.M.
2 Drink a ton of water (at least 3 - 4 full glasses)
3 buy some red light bulbs and for you - do NOT get the 25 watt variety, since you're having so much trouble sleeping, I'll recommend the 15w varient to you, here
sleep saving red incandescent bulbs
4 download f.lux download ASAP Use the Darkroom mode.
5 Also IN ADDITION to f.lux, use UVEX "glasses" they are plastic and they filter out so much blue / green light (but not all green light) that even a CANDLE looks more yellow!
UVEX orange plastic wear
Just ordered these the other day, and I love them. They fit much better than the all orange version w/o the black frame.
Let me know if ANY of this helps, so that I know and also so you are aware of it and can tell others that may have the same sleep problem.
Or you can use the product specifically designed for this purpose.
I mean yeah, your tip is good too if you are trying to insulate your tin roof shanty with found materials.
Polycryo is allegedly from the materials original usage as a window film insulation.
The second page of that thread suggests that Gossamer Gear made up the word.
However, there is no registration of either "polycro" nor "polycryo" in the USPTO Trademark System, which would indicate to me that it's a generic term for the material.
I also can't find any description of what specific material 3M or Duck uses.
To get you by the next two winters, buy the window insulation kits:
They go on easily, are good for all winter, and you'd be surprised at how well they reduce drafts and cold air coming into your home.
Window plastic: https://www.amazon.com/3M-Indoor-Window-Insulator-Windows/dp/B00002NCJI/ref=sr_1_11?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1481318689&amp;sr=8-11&amp;keywords=cellular+shades
Window Sealing Kit
I'm in the Fan, in a well-insulated apartment with central air. I just paid $122, kept at 74-75 all of July and August so far. So yours sounds right.
You could buy window wrap, or other simple insulation solutions like door snakes
Unless you want to keep it at 85 during the day, and bump down to 75 at night, it's probably going to be like it is now
Edit; actually get window wrap for the winter anyway. It cuts down on draftiness significantly. I even used to shove towels and shit in my door/window cracks because I love not shivering.
I love this one! $33 on Amazon.
This is what I use.
It isn't the cheapest adjustable station out there, but it seems to be good quality. I've had a handful of cheap irons over the years, and I wish I had just started with something like this.
Edit: Fixed my link.
Doesn't have a heat gun. Just buy a small heat gun separate if you want one.
You listed a lot of garbage chinese garbage. They may last years. They may die directly out of warranty.
As for all the other items, you should buy whatever you feel you need to be safe. A fire extinguisher is a must for any residence but soldering probably isn't going to be the reason a fire is started.
I have a $30 30W Weller that I've been using for YEARS. I've left it on for hours accidentally. I've only replaced the tip once in the years I've owned it.
Do I need the 100$ one or is this okay?
This Weller is what you want. Don't mess around with a junky one. Get the real deal first time around.
Weller WLC100 40-Watt Soldering Station https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AS28UC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_byt8AbEWCG7MM
I bought this one about a year and half ago and it's been great to me. Just make sure you get a fine point tip for it.
I have one routine which I call the Hard Reset Protocol. It's pretty hard to maintain long term, but I can do it for 1-2 weeks and lock down my circadian rhythm for several weeks at a time.
Between the melatonin and the orange goggles, I feel tranquilized by 11 and by midnight am out like a light. I tend to wake up 5 minutes before alarm, that means it's working.
Also, going camping at the start really helps kick things off.
As some have pointed out, this protocol is pretty brutal. Especially with the lithium, that is definitely "check with your doctor", or I solemnly swear I am up to no good"-level biohacking territory. It still works if you only get some of the elements, but there is a Voltron-like greater-than-sum-of-parts synergy effect when you get everything together. I would actually say lithium is the least important one, but for some people's biochemistries, it could be the lynchpin.
But if you can follow the Hard Reset Protocol for a full two weeks and your circadian rhythm is still all over the place, you need to see a neurologist or something, because you may have a problem with your photosensitive ganglion. Essentially, this protocol grabs every Zeitgeber by the balls and says "You're coming with me".
Light therapy has definitely helped me. I had SAD cycles as far back as middle school, but didn't know what was going on until halfway through college. Thankfully a therapist noticed the pattern and suggested a light box. I use it year round now, and turn it on as soon as my alarm goes off in the morning.
I'd also highly suggest policing your blue light exposure in the evening. That's the other side of the coin that people often ignore. We're exposed to so much artificial blue light from screens. The blue light tricks our brain into thinking it's daylight and screws up our production of melatonin and thus our sleep cycle. Your sleep cycle absolutely affects your physical and mental health. I use glasses like this at night when I'm watching TV or using my phone. I feel like limiting my light exposure has helped as much or more than the light box. The two approaches certainly support each other.
The brand gets a bit of hate on this sub, but I love my Streamlight Microstream: https://smile.amazon.com/Streamlight-66318-MicroStream-Ultra-compact-Flashlight/dp/B00143JZ08/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1524351138&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=microstream
About as compact as a AAA can get. The tailswitch is a bit hard to press, but totally manageable. Bonus is that the pocket clip doubles back to work as a hat clip.
Yes and no, phone flashlights can help find something on the floor or follow a path in a pinch but having a dedicated light last longer, is much brighter, can see farther, and can be used in many more types of situations. A phone light will kill your battery very quickly also.
But, again it’s personal preference, really. I like to be prepared for those unique moments. Friends always ask me for my flashlight and I get to be the hero every once in a while lol.
Check out the stream light microstream
Or the olight s1r or I3T EOS
Bright, tiny, and cheap. You will get hooked if you get one of these.
Microstream The clip on mine is different but I think this is the same light. Love it.
Spyderco Tenacious Easily the highest value knife I've ever had/seen. I cut and pry the shit out of stuff with this knife on a daily basis.
I've been carrying the Streamlight 66318 microlight for a few years. It's about the size of a pen in diameter but half the length. It is bright and works well.
I know this is different than OP's criteria, but I love my Streamlight Stylus. The light in your pocket is better than the one on your dresser.
It's pen sized and aways fits in a pocket, can be clipped to pocket edge. 65 lumens is just enough to not blind you from reflections, but more than enough for target ID. Only downsides are you can push the button in your pocket and kill the battery but it's uncommon, and you lose it because it's so damn handy and constantly being used.
Before anything else: Someone else said jack stands - get them. Don't die under a car. I almost did, it's easier to fuck up than you think.
I have the 1.5 ton HF aluminum jack, I wish I had gone for something a little bigger. It doesn't really have the lift height for bigger jobs.
Another thing I don't see mentioned: LIGHTS. I keep two of each of these in my garage:
Plus I have the Braun (HF) flexible work light:
This thing is great, but I have the typical HF complaints about quality especially around its willingness to charge all the time. I put a washer on the battery and that seems to have solved the issue for now.
I wouldn't mess with a pneumatic impact unless you find yourself in a situation where you really need one and can't afford an electric. Your compressor flow rate has a lot more to do with its ability to run air tools than anything else, and unless you really have a shop quality compressor you won't run a pneumatic impact very long.
I'd wait until you really need an impact and if you find you do, I'd suggest this one:
Now it's not the best electric impact you can get - the Milwaukee and Makita versions are both marginally better - but it's available at every big box store, and when you factor in the cost of batteries it's WAY cheaper.
For hand tools, I'd go 100% harbor freight (pittsburgh). Most things can be done with 3/8" and a lot of extensions, but having 1/2" is really helpful. If you use it enough to break it, upgrade then. I use 1/4" for lots of things but it's a luxury for the most part. Get metric deep and standard depth sockets. I also consider ratcheting box wrenches nearly a necessity. Again, the pittsburgh set is a great deal for what you get. Get all the lengths of extensions you can.
If you find you want (or need) nicer hand tools, my next step up is generally gearwrench. This set is one of the few things I might consider a splurge on out of the gate:
You need a torque wrench. Someone else suggested the tekton 1/2" drive and I 100% concur if you had to pick one to start with. Make sure you learn how to use it and how to properly store it. A deep lug socket (19mm or 21mm usually) is your friend, figure out what size your lug nuts are.
I can't live without a couple pairs of vice grips. They're by far my favorite tool for grabbing spring-loaded hose clamps.
You need at least one dead blow hammer. They're cheap as hell at harbor freight (noticing a theme?)
Magnet trays are usually free at harbor freight with a coupon and purchase. Get a nice stack of them, they're priceless.
Other Odds and ends that I use a bunch:
Finally, abuse www.hfqpdb.com - there is often a coupon for whatever the hell it is you're gonna buy at harbor freight. If not, use the 20%.
I'm sure I'll think of a bunch more stuff later on
Edit: I told you I'd forget some stuff.
Prybars are a must have
A pick set is nearly a must-have
One of my favorite things I've done is get a big bulk food scoop from GFS and put it in a 5-gallon bucket of oil dry. You end up needing it a lot.
Kershaw thistle https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00I0RV72K/ref=mp_s_a_1_1/155-8607091-4931342?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1478954103&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=SX200_QL40&amp;keywords=kershaw+thistle&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=31Sj8ybLnNL&amp;ref=plSrch
Sanrenmu 7010 https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00GMMPIK2/ref=mp_s_a_1_1/155-8607091-4931342?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1478954244&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=SX200_QL40&amp;keywords=sanrenmu+7010&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=31OdU3KExQL&amp;ref=plSrch
Streamlight stylus pro https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0015UC17E/ref=mp_s_a_1_1/155-8607091-4931342?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1478954332&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=SX200_QL40&amp;keywords=streamlight+stylus+pro&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=31cx0acp5QL&amp;ref=plSrch
Tactical pen https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01E8V50DS/ref=mp_s_a_1_3/155-8607091-4931342?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1478954399&amp;sr=8-3&amp;pi=SY200_QL40&amp;keywords=tactical+pen&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=41j21-mqqkL&amp;ref=plSrch
Gerber suspension https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000EDPT9K/ref=mp_s_a_1_1/155-8607091-4931342?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1478954483&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=SY200_QL40&amp;keywords=gerber+suspension&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=415sAeQH8SL&amp;ref=plSrch
Came in around 92 dollars.
>What do you guys recommend for a lantern?
I've discovered camping is the perfect time to test out lots of your preps. You don't know how useful this stuff is until it's pitch black and trying to fry up some burgers and also mix your girlfriend a margarita and multi-tasking. I've found some things awesome (headlamp) and some things just impractical this way. It's made me remove and add stuff to my BOB. I highly recommend taking your BOB and other prep gear camping and trying it out for real.
Going by amazon.com reviews is almost always a good idea in my experience. Whatever battery lantern has 4.5 or 5 stars and 150 reviews is almost always a good pick. Buy spare batteries too!
Q2: Do you have a tub?
I think the main thing here is you want >72 hours of spare water already without doing anything fancy. You should have some water ready without having to filter anything. If your faucet turns off, you're not going to go start filtering ocean water. The sidebar has info about requirements, suggesting 2 gallons of water per person per day, and 5 per if it includes hygienic purposes.
Chances are you'll way more often deal with not having water for a couple of days rather than not having water ever again. If you can't go a few days without water comfortably, you should focus on that. Get something to store water and fill them. Buy a few packs of bottled water and keep it in the closet. Get that waterBOB. Have at least 72 hours worth for your family just directly from stocks. After you've got that done, then maybe consider "long term solutions"... but arguably you've probably got a lot of other stuff you should take care of before that, like extra beans and rice and cans of food.
I don't think there's any easy way to handle ocean => potable. Here's the thing. Let's say you'd benefit from something like that. That means you have no more water? Your city is completely water-free, as in everyone is trying to get water? Shit will get hellish. What are you going to do, go to the ocean, grab a few buckets of water and take it home? Either you've got a stealthy way of getting a lot of salt water to your house (live near the ocean?) or you are going to be noticed and people will start begging you for water for their grandmother, infant, etc. Get ready to have families lining up on your door step, begging for your help, fighting over half cups of water.
My point is, if you're prepping for never having water running again, you've got a lot more to handle and it'd be absolute chaos. It'd be better to make sure you can go 2 weeks safely at home without food and water, and if you've got that covered, then you can maybe consider long term homestead craziness. You prepare for a flat tire before you prepare for lightning striking your car, know what I mean?
CTD has them.
Edit: So does Camping Survival
Edit 2: So does Amazon, but the price sucks.
Amazing amazon: a product for every need
Maybe a water bladder that can be filled up in your tub.
WaterBOB Bathtub Emergency Water Storage Container, Drinking Water Storage, Hurricane Survival, BPA-Free (100 Gallon) (1) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001AXLUX2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_6LnJDb5HQ9AS6
This is everything I Use.
Agreed. I had to fight that instinct to save the twist-ties in case they're needed later, but between that and snips, the only thing left to complain about is the waste-- plastic bags, cardboard labels, and all the snipped-open twist-ties.
I use these wire snips, which cost $5 at Amazon. The point is sharp enough that you can get under a right tie and confidently snip the tie without worrying that some cable will blunder into the way. And if you're making your own cable, it's great for snipping off a bad plug, getting the length of the twisted pairs even, etc., and less unwieldy than the bits of the crimping tool that do those same things.
If cost isn't an issue, then one of the all-in-one kits should get you just about everything you need: Resistance meter, micro screwdrivers, pliers, coil wrapping tool/mandrels, scissors and some tweezers(Preferably ceramic tipped)
If you're tight on cash, there's a few routes to go. If there's a Harbor Freight nearby, you can get most of what you need there.
Resistance Meter: Also referred to as an Ohm reader (shudders). If you're ever going to get into mechs, this is a necessity. Hell, when first building, it's a nice thing to have to check your build for shorts before you slap it on your mod. You can spend as low as $5 usd, or $35-$45 dollars for a Tab unit that can actually fire the coil to work out hot spots.
Finally, cotton and wire. This has been bandied about ad nauseum about which type of wire and gauge is best, and the debate on wicking materials still comes up from time to time. So, I'll give you my two cents and leave it at that.
Wire: 26 gauge kanthal. Why? It's easy to work with, provides good flavor and doesn't need to be run at insane wattage levels for great results. If high wattage vaping is your thing, get some 24 gauge. Better still, get both! I like 26 and 28 gauge(Twisted wire YAY!), you'll find your preference as you go. I didn't care for 24 gauge as it made the vape a bit too warm for my liking.
Cotton for wicking? I swear by Labo Puffs. No "Fresh cotton" taste, easy to work with and lasts for EVAR. I'm still using the 120 pad bag I bought over a year ago, and it'll still be another six months before I need more. Here's the Amazon link for the Prime eligible pads. There are cheaper sellers, but they are in Japan and it can take a week to get to you.
What's left? Wire cutters, of course! Nail clippers work alright, but something like this works even better!
There's my suggestions and whatnot. Take or leave what you will, and welcome to the world of building!
Since you specifically mention Z-wave, I'm going to assume you will be using a hub. I know that at least with Wink, you can set a robot to turn on/off the lamp along with the main switch.
If you want these to be able to function independently, from the same switch, it would have to be a HomeSeer as they are the only manufacturer that does this (and they own the patent on that technology (AFAIK)
Other options include:
Wink Relay - (although it's probably more than a HomeSeer switch) you would at least get a cool display.. and 2 "smart buttons" that you can program to control any shortcut that you wanted... and also an intercom if you installed a second one.
Echo/Dot/Google Home + an external smart plug - TP Link will pair with either of those without requiring an additional hub. The lamp would be voice controlled.
You could also replace the bulbs in the lamp with zigbee bulbs - Either paired directly to a hub, Hue - or the Echo Plus.
At the moment, even the TP-Link Smart Plug is $25 on Amazon. That's a great deal. I have a couple myself and have never had any issues.
EDIT: £24 on UK Amazon also, by the way.
I like the combination of a wifi switch:
TP-LINK Smart Plug, Wi-Fi, Control your Devices from Anywhere (HS100), Works with Amazon Alexa https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0178IC734/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_NCwmyb931C8ER
with a remote camera:
D-Link Day & Night Wi-Fi Camera with Remote Viewing (DCS-932L) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004P8K24W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_3EwmybF52B1TJ
Then with your phone you can water... or set a schedule.
That ThruNite Neutron 2C looks like a contender. Thanks for the lead, and thanks for confirming I'll want a warm light.
If $50 is a hard line, Sofirn SP33 is 2500 lumens and more than most uses require. It comes with a 26650 and charger for $41.
As others have stated, Sofirn SP36 BLF edition with Anduril is probably the best option in that range. You can get the light with stock Sofirn branded batteries for $70 or get it without for $50.
If you want slightly better than the stock Sofirn batteries, you can get 3 of the popular and budget friendly high drain 18650's like the Samsung 30q for $16.50 + shipping.
I have a Hakko FX888D and it's great. Might be overkill depending on your uses though.
EDIT: Whatever you get, make sure it's temperature controlled though.
EDIT2: Lead free solder is garbage. Get some proper lead rosin core solder.
This is highly recommended: Kester 44 Rosin Core Solder 63/37 .020 1 lb. Spool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00068IJWC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Tn0vybNY3QZ01
And if you plan more than one project this soldering iron is great: Hakko FX888D-23BY Digital Soldering Station FX-888D FX-888 (blue & yellow) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ANZRT4M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Bo0vyb4YNQS1G
Is Preonic worth the investment?
I have a Planck rather than a Preonic but OLKB designs sturdy and reliable boards that are also very interesting.
I honestly think the Planck is like twitter. Having a very low word (key) count makes people more creative in how they express themselves. The Preonic is more like tumbler where more things can be done more easily.
Moving keys to other layers is fine due to the extra thumbable keys on the bottom row. The Preonic doesn't require as many layers because it has so many more keys, so the extra thumb keys aren't really necessary.
That said, it's a nice compromise.
Is it a good build for a beginner?
It's the same difficulty as any other keyboard build that has PCB components soldered on. All you have to do is add switches and through-hole solder them. It's definitely a fine way to learn to solder as long as you follow a few rules.
Most keyboard kits come this way with the exception of those like the Lets Split which you have to solder diodes and a promicro onto also.
The only thing More difficult is getting a PCB printed and buying diodes, resisters, and chips from DigiKey and then using a heat gun or oven to cook all the little things on.
What is a good soldering station?
Cheap ones will work fine. People around here seem to like the Hakko 888d which is what I use. The cheaper ones like this will also work fine. The extra $80 doesn't change much about how you work. Turn on the iron, heat stuff, sponge occasionally, don't touch it to your skin, then put it away safely.
Soldering rules for beginners
There are a lot of little things to do to maximize soldering experience. You'll figure these out over time. I thing this short list is enough to keep your board intact and blood in your body.
I am a fan of the Weller WESD51
The Hakko FX888D is also very popular.
Both companies have parts that are widely available.
Gonna need something else after you use those though...
I would consider the Hakko FX-888 a good entry-level soldering station. It's great for home usage. The cheapie soldering irons rarely have good temperature control -- so one solder joint will be just fine, the next will be way too hot, and the third will be a cold-solder joint.
If you can find a stable iron -- and that's a huge if, in my experience -- you'll do just fine, regardless of price.
This is something worth spending a little bit on to get something decent. You can play the soldering iron lottery, and you might get lucky, but it might also cost you a lot of time, frustration, and ruined projects.
I'm assuming you're new to soldering things -- consider taking a look at this guy's series on soldering: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J5Sb21qbpEQ
Part 1 covers equipment, part 2 covers technique, and part 3 covers surface-mount work. Those should be sufficient for you to get off the ground and running on home projects. :)
Protip : The next time you send the grunts to cable up a new install, include a pair of inexpensive micro cutters. This makes removing all of the stupid twist ties go much more quickly and is far better on your fingers.
Bonus, these are also excellent for safely removing troublesome nylon zipties to be replaced with superiour velcro.
Hakko CHP-170 Micro Soft Wire Cutter, 1.5mm Stand-off, Flush Cut, 2.5mm Hardened Carbon Steel Construction, 21-Degree Angled Jaw, 8mm Jaw Length, 16 Gauge Maximum Cutting Capacity
They are the best and you're missing out! http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IDMo2ncT2D4
For the uninitiated, bidets are super cheap now and easy to install. http://www.amazon.com/Astor-Non-Electric-Mechanical-Toilet-Attachment/dp/B003TPGPUW/
I recently got this, it's very easy to install.
I now use 1 roll of toilet paper about every 1-2 months.
Buy one. They're cheap and easy to install. It's been a game-changer for me. Wiping my ass used to be like cleaning peanut butter off a poodle. Not anymore.
this one is superb
They have them on Amazon. For about $35 http://www.amazon.com/Astor-Non-Electric-Mechanical-Toilet-Attachment/dp/B003TPGPUW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1367895894&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=bidet
To the rim of the bowl!
They sell like $20 attachments on Amazon to install into the water line and attach to the rim. check it out
I have this one and it is a game changer. Totally recommend it. Not only do you use little or no TP, but the feeling of being totally clean afterwards is awesome. I used to pride myself on being a company time pooper, now I wait til I get home (if I can help it) to use the bidet.
I recommend this one.
Luxe Bidet Neo 120 - Self Cleaning Nozzle - Fresh Water Non-Electric Mechanical Bidet Toilet Attachment (blue and white) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A0RHSJO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_VATWAb88AS8BD
I. Love. My. Bidet. This one is like a jet stream, so you can clean the surface or douche out your ass. Best thing ever.
Luxe Bidet Neo 120 - Self Cleaning Nozzle - Fresh Water Non-Electric Mechanical Bidet Toilet Attachment (blue and white) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A0RHSJO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_pfr3AbKEA5BXC
Best $35 ive spent on Amazon. Pro tip, upgrade to the metal t valve.
My suggestion is to take good care of your fiancee... since that's what you want them to think you're doing, after all ;-)
Did your father-in-law already buy a bidet?? If not, Amazon US actually sells cheap basic bidets/spray toilet seats that you could install, if you really wanted to go above and beyond. Really, though, a bidet is the answer you seek... your in-laws will feel comfortable, and happy to know you cared enough to go out of your way since bidets aren't so common in the U.S.
Having slippers, chopsticks, and bottled beverages (non-sweetened) available for them would also be a nice gesture. Not everyone uses them, but for some it's a real comfort to have them around.
As someone who takes narcotics for pain, may I recommend Miralax? It dissolves in coffee easily and helps keep the constipation to a minimum.
Softer poop will be much easier to pass, talk to the docs about how much Miralax you need.
(I'm not a medical professional, please talk to an expert before taking new drugs!)
You're also going to need a bidet attachment for your toilet. That will help clean your butt without lots of painful wiping. I recommend this one, it's easy to install and use: "Luxe Bidet Neo 120 - Self Cleaning Nozzle - Fresh Water Non-Electric Mechanical Bidet Toilet Attachment (blue and white)" https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00A0RHSJO/
Good luck with your butthole, OP, I hope you heal quickly. Remember that the embarrassment will fade, accidents happen :)
On mobile and too lazy to format for a shorter link, but here you go!
Best $35 I’ve ever spent. This one comes with everything you need to install as well, so even if you don’t have any tools at all, you can still install it easily.
Just get one of these.
35 bucks and they work great.
Bruh. Buy this guy and install it.
Best $35 you'll ever spend. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A0RHSJO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_vtA3Bb2H598MF
Skip the wet wipes, a bidet is cheaper AND more environmentally friendly
My mom went to Italy and loved the idea so much, she bought an installable one from Amazon. She's the only person I know who has one.
Luxe Bidet Neo 120 - Self Cleaning Nozzle - Fresh Water Non-Electric Mechanical Bidet Toilet Attachment (blue and white) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A0RHSJO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_N1SNAb2MGXDD8
Am I allowed to link directly to products? This is the one I bought. I was off by 15 bucks It looks like but w/e.
You can get them to retro-fit on nearly any toilet. I got this one for about $45CDN just because of all the bidet talk here on reddit. I figured for the price it wasn't much of a gamble.
I can't express how much I love the thing. It is so far superior to toilet paper and you will have no idea until you try it.
I spent this weekend away from home and had to actually wipe my own ass for the first time in months. It was awful. Ate something that didn't agree with me so I was using the toilet more than usual too. Couldn't wait to get home.
Seriously, try it.
You've prompted me to check these out:
I think I will get this. One review reported using 1/3 less t.p. and I know my septic system would appreciate this, plus the other obvious benefit.
You low brow non-bidet users. Let me ask you this. If I were to wipe shit on your forearm. Would you grab a dry paper towel to get it off and be satisfied or would you wet it a little bit to ensure you were clean? For the sake of humanity, I hope you agree that you would wet it. So, why is your asshole any different? You can buy this bidet for only $25. It has 6,600 reviews at 4.5 of 5 stars. Installs on your toilet in 10 minutes.
Astor Bidet Fresh Water Spray Non-Electric Mechanical Bidet Toilet Seat Attachment CB-1000 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TPGPUW?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
Just get a bidet attachment! Super cheap, no shower head unthreading needed. And you’ll always have a squeaky clean undercarriage!
Astor Bidet Fresh Water Spray Non-Electric Mechanical Bidet Toilet Seat Attachment CB-1000 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TPGPUW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ycbTAbDRQRNFH
Astor Bidet Fresh Water Spray Non-Electric Mechanical Bidet Toilet Seat Attachment CB-1000 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TPGPUW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_gI8OCbD595A0B
This is the one I bought.I call it my ass blastor.
The Luxe bidet is easy to install and comes with everything you need inside the box at $36 via amazon:
Luxe Bidet Neo 120
I like the knob rather than the more common "dials" which seem harder to twist. Good luck!
Get one. It will absolutely change your life. Best $40 I've ever spent.
Luxe Bidet Neo 120 (Elite Series) - Self Cleaning Nozzle - Fresh Water Non-Electric Mechanical Bidet Toilet Attachment w/ Strong Faucet Valves and Metal Hoses https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A0RHSJO/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_FiWbub1FQP5FM
For anyone curious this is the one we got. https://www.amazon.com/Luxe-Bidet-Neo-120-Non-Electric/dp/B00A0RHSJO?ie=UTF8&amp;ref_=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top
Not the cheapest and not the most expensive, but it works like a charm
yo i highly recommend a bidet attachment for your toilet if you're a little skidmarksy in y'undapants!
https://nutritionfacts.org/video/chicken-out-of-utis/ Click on the "View transcript" button below the video if you don't want to watch. It has the benefit of being evidence based.
**Edit to add: https://nutritionfacts.org/video/avoiding-chicken-to-avoid-bladder-infections/
I got my bidet off Woot, but Amazon has them for under $30. You'll want to get a better connector than the plastic one they come with, but it's been a godsend for me.
https://www.amazon.com/TP70-Handheld-Personal-Portable-Capacity/dp/B00O92IF6Q/ref=sr_1_7?crid=7YUMED4AGJKQ is a cheap and easy tester for the portable ones.
https://www.amazon.com/Luxe-Bidet-Neo-120-Non-Electric/dp/B00A0RHSJO/ref=sr_1_4 is what Woot.com had for about the same price, and I love it.
Not electric. I have this and it is nice. Cold water is ok and refreshing.
Get a bidet! I highly recommend one, makes everything sparkly clean, and helps toilet paper purchases go further.
Luxe Bidet Neo 120 - Self Cleaning Nozzle - Fresh Water Non-Electric Mechanical Bide... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A0RHSJO/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_8ItEzb3V8KM6Y
Switch to a Bidet and save on toilet paper and your bumm.
Luxe Bidet Neo 120 least expensive but works well
I had 3 fistulas: 1 low, 2 high. They did a fistulotomyb the low one and put draining setons in the 2 high ones. That was 5 months ago.
I bathe twice per day, each time for minimum 30 minutes but often for 90-120 minutes per bath. I read books, check reddit on my phone, watch videos, etc. I'm trying to jerry-rig some setup where I'd feel secure having my laptop in there so I could work during the day. It's hard to overstate how good a hot soak feels.
I also have a bidet on my toilet and a travel bidet which I take with me whenever I'm not home. I use panty liners to deal with drainage and change those 3-4 times per day.
I'm so grateful to have flexibility with my job where I can work from home on days I don't feel well. This experience would be much worse if I had limitations on my hygiene.
Other than the fistulas and 5-6 watery bowel movements per day I'm not overly symptomatic (subject to diet) so I'm grateful for that.
Started remicade and methotrexate a month ago. GI & colorectal surgeon want to give it 9-12 months and see if the fistulas are closing up.
Base $35 model, cold water only https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A0RHSJO
Deluxe $60 model, hot and cold water https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A0RX2UI
Travel Bidet: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008CSDKSQ
Pro Tip: Buy a Bidet add-on. They’re under $35 on Amazon
dirty ass? clean it up!
I got you fam!
Luxe Bidet Neo 120 - Self Cleaning Nozzle - Fresh Water Non-Electric Mechanical Bidet Toilet Attachment (blue and white) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A0RHSJO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_mi-ADbRDZNCG6
Something like this will do. https://www.amazon.com/Luxe-Bidet-Neo-120-Non-Electric/dp/B00A0RHSJO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1503720717&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=luxe+bidet
Buy a bidet attachment for your toilet. No wipes to buy or clog your pipes, and you stay nice and clean. Best $40 ever.
Edit: [This] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FPYIK6M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_1TRHzb04T8P8Y) is worth getting too to replace the plastic tee that comes with the bidet and give you better flow control.
Bought on January 8, 2017. https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00A0RHSJO/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You're not going to get a good soldering iron for $10. The good Hakko ones are electronically controlled so they're always at the correct temperature.
I initially scoffed at spending that much money on one for how often I solder, but the quality of work I can do is so much better now. They're worth every penny.
Oh wow, MX black switches are usually not very tight fitting with caps either. MX clear switches are the ones that are notorious for this! Sorry this happened to you OP. This isn't the greateast video showing how to de-solder switches but should give you a decent ideal of what you'll need to do. The only tools you'll really need are a sodapullt, some solder wick, & a decent temp controlled soldering station. Well, TBH you could get away with a cheaper soldering iron if all you plan on ever using it for is replacing these few switches. Although I will say cheap soldering irons with no temp. control are much easier to damage the PCB or pads with.
A tl;dr of this and other articles I looked at says blue light disrupts your circadian sleep cycles by suppressing melatonin release during sleep. Any light will really, but the melatonin suppression is increased by green light, and even more so from blue light (because colder colors have shorter wavelengths). If you look at any color chart, red is the polar opposite to blue, so to combat this, researchers suggest using red, or warmer, lighting at night. Another option is to use amber-tinted glasses, specifically for blocking blue light.
Also, f.lux is a program that you can download which will automatically adjust the blue light levels of your computer depending on time of day.
Uvex S1933X Skyper Safety Eyewear, Black Frame, SCT-Orange UV Extreme Anti-Fog Lens
They are super awesome, truly improving my sleep.
Yes, sleep hygiene is very underrated (to the point that most people probably haven't even heard of such term). I'll add a few more good tips:
I used to have utterly fucked up sleeping patterns for years and finally managed to make myself a healthy sleeper, all of those helped me immensely.
I also have one theory that I've never seen explained this way anywhere, but it makes perfect sense for me: most people would agree that if you wake up too late in the morning, you wouldn't be able to fall asleep easily if you went to bed very early that day, you simply wouldn't feel tired yet. However, I noticed that if I'm used to that sort of pattern, even waking up early one morning still doesn't make it easier to fall asleep that day, even though I'm supposed to feel more tired. It's not exactly a new theory, it's all about circadian rhythm, but my view is, the internal clock in our bodies expects the day (the "awake" part of our day) last a certain amount of time, and it gets so used to that amount of time that even being more tired can't instantly change it. I just don't feel like the day is over yet, it doesn't really register as "night" for me yet. I figured out that for me, the "awake" part of the day has to last 15-16 hours (I need a bit less sleep in summer). So even if I don't go to bed at the same time, I try to make my "day" the same length. For example, if I get up at 7am, I'll go to bed around 11, and then get up at 7 again, which would give me 8 hours of sleep that I need and fit neatly into 24 hours so that I can have the same schedule every day. Or I can push it around accordingly as I see fit or as needed. I could wake up at 9am and then would go to bed at 12am, maybe it would take me longer to fall asleep and next morning I would wake up before 9, but it would still be similar enough.
I HIGHLY HIGHLY HIGHLY HIGHLY HIGHLY recommend you consider buying blue-blocking glasses. I got mine about two weeks ago, and they seem to be quite the help so far. People on Amazon also talk very positively about them.
This is the pair I bought: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000USRG90/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Edit: And put them on at night. I put mine on about two hours before my bedtime.
This is an $8 ($13 shipped w/o Super Saver) version of what they're advertising. It actually works really well if you have trouble with falling asleep after looking at screens or if you have issues with eyestrain. The concept is actually pretty solid but those are obviously overpriced.
A list of some solid choices:
Name | Brightness | Battery life (brightest mode) | Battery type | Price
I personally have the MicroStream and I LOVE it. Seriously. So small. So cheap. When you buy quality AAA batteries it lasts months (buy the ones that have the 10 year guarantee). Don't have any of the other ones but reviews on them are all pretty good. Hope this helps!
(Edit: added more)
Streamlight Microstream. I've carried one for years. Love it. The clip is nice too because you can clip it to a hat bill.
In the first picture I forgot my Eleaf iCare and then in the second picture I forgot my Nixon The Chronicle.
Everything on here was purchased on Amazon except for the iCare and my actual iPhone SE... and my truck. The light and pen were just added to my loadout thanks to /r/EDC!
Phone Case: Ringke SLIM
Light: Streamlight Microstream C4
Knife: Spyderco Byrd Meadowlark2
Pen: Fisher X-Mark Space Pen
Wallet: Radix One Slim
I like neat and clean. Also, thanks to /r/minimalism I tend to be very critical of my belongings in both my pocket and my life. When I deem there is nothing left to take away it causes a nice calming effect.
I carry this one which I love. Small enough but gets the job done.
Discreet and light weight are also subjective. Do you carry a bag on you every day? or are you wearing cargo pants every day? or does all this have to get stuffed in the pockets of your jeans?
A lot of these things are completely personal choices and as such you might take a step back and evaluate what you have and consider what you find wrong with your current choices.
You might start with an Altoids tin FAK or Altoids tin survival kit
Knives...small, inexpensive, discreet, unassuming. A few come to mind
Wallet. What's wrong with the one you have now? or do you just want a fancy new one? All my life my leather bi-fold wallets have served me well. Only had two in over 20 years.
Flashlights are good. You can go knock off or Streamlight.
Pens. People recommend Fisher Space Pens such as the one I linked. They're quality pens, durable, stylish and refillable. I personally carry grey Bic disposables because people steal them or I lose them.
Multi-tool...I suggest Leatherman. Again it's subjective based on the tools that you need. Take a look at the Leatherman website. They have a good tool selector based on size and number of tools you want/need. My Skeletool CX has always served me well.
A way to carry keys? What's wrong with how you carry them now? If you're stuffing them in your pocket traditional key rings are still fine. Carrying them of body? on a bag? Then some sort of carabiner works, like the Keybiner or some variation. Don't want something rattling around? The Key-bar is nice if you don't have giant keys.
I can endorse this one.
Very bright, and very useful for checking wounds for morning rounds on whatever surgical clerkship one might be on.
I am poor, so these are my budget suggestions.
You can spend less and get a great knife, the Condor knife and tool Rodan. $30.
I bought it and a Condor Kumunga because I could get both for the price of a BK2 or Izula. They are very utilitarian. Not pretty at all.
For that I have a #2 style Mora $15. There are many Mora knifes under $20 and any would be great for you. Stainless or Carbon steel, and Wood or Plastic for the handle.
Buying a compass you don't need anything fancy. Get a Brunton compass for again, less than $10. That exact compass has lived in my everyday backpack in an outside pocket, and shows no damage after 5 years or so.
As far as flashlights, that is a whole new world. I'd do some looking because you have a lot of choices these days.
I'm using a Streamlight Stylus Pro, again $20 and AAA's. And a few smaller streamights, the Nano at $8. My nano flashlight get's paired with my last hope knifes. A CRKT RSK MK5, at $16 and a Spyderco H1 $39 fully serrated ladybug3. Also I use a keychain Swiss Army Knife.
Thrunite TN12 and Wowtac A2S perhaps? Both take Li-ion 18650 rechargeable batteries. The A2S does SOS at least, if that satisfies your flashing function.
You should be able to get those two, plus batteries and charger for less than £100. You'll need a separate pocket clip for the A2S in order to hang it off a pocket, belt, stab vest, etc and of the ones here I think the best one is the 21-23mm as the A2S is 23.5mm.
After a headlamp for long miles but don't want to break the bank because it's a potential christmas gift?
Get the Wowtac A2S a 18650 L shaped headlamp and it's perfect for running (unless you're in fog or the clouds and its dark!)
Been running with this for a few months now and it's incredible, has firefly 1 lumen mode which apparently lasts weeks, then 10, 60, 200 lumen modes, i run with the 60lumen mode around the mountains and it's perfect, occasionaly clicking in to the 200 lumens to see ahead. Also has turbo and strode modes which I don't use but might one day for some photography stuff.
The reason I got it is that the 63lumen mode can run for 19+ hours, and it's 18650. Everyone needs to start migrating to 18650 running headlamps/torches. It's also a third of the price of any petzl or other "named" headlamp runners use and imo better. If you head over to /r/flashlight they will all say the same.
I am comparing this to a Nextorch Eco star (2xAAA) headlamp which is fantastic but comes in at 40lumens which just wasn't bright enough for some runs. Many different torches (I have a big collection) and i've tested friends petzls and other overpriced head torches, the wowtac beats it hands down!
I believe an angled light is better for camping in general(you need two hands when cooking or setup tent), it can be used as both headlamp or hand held, also can be clipped on belt or backpack. If you dont have any experience with 18650, a wowtac A2S is the best starter package I believe. Or if you are more interested in the straight option, a Nite Ize headband can mount any straight light less than 1" on your head.
I've been researching this myself. I do think you need to specify a few things first though:
The ones I'm considering are mostly mentioned in this thread, but I'll list a few:
Regular lights / slightly cheaper:
From my research, the best values batteries are these, depending on category:
Highest capacity, current good for maybe 6A (some say 10A):
Panasonic 35E or Sanyo NCR18650GA
Need high current: (10-20A)
Sony VTC6 or Samsung 30Q
This one fits the bill for me. Not too expensive, neutral white, usb rechargeable battery, and headlight band, Not too big.
Wowtac a2s natural white
The a2 is slightly cheaper, not as bright, only comes in cool white.
Or hold on to that food for the next hurricane. Come to think of it maybe you should always keep a rotating stock of about 2 weeks worth on non perishables at home that way when the next storm or power outage comes you arent stuck scrambling for the last can of beans like the rest of the idiots.
seriously, my storm prep consisted of fill up truck with gas, sit at home and drink beer. I always filled up a water bob in one of my tubs
WaterBOB Bathtub Emergency Water Storage Container, Drinking Water Storage, Hurricane Survival, BPA-Free (100 Gallon) (1) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001AXLUX2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_piXNBbRXQQ8MJ
edit fixed the link
If you can't buy water you can buy a Water BOB and fill your tub before the storm.
I just bought this thing for storing up to 100 gal of fresh water in my tub.
First of all, congratulations on picking up a good nakiri. Tojiro's whole line of knives and cleavers are solid as hell and a great bang for your buck. The first knife I ever picked up for my wife when she started working in restaurants was a Tojiro, and it still gets used all the time.
If I were you, I'd do as /u/mangoforfeit said and get a King Stone. They're under $30 on Amazon right now, which is a steal, and it'll be all you need for a while.
I don't know who put the idea that using "German" vs "Japanese" steel on a stone is going to make a difference, but it won't. You can sharpen low HRC steel on the same stones you sharpen high HRC steel, but the higher the hardness of the blade, the longer it'll take you. I have an Aritsugu gyuto that I sharpen once a week, and that shit is a fucking work out 65 HRC and 11 inches. For that one, I go 1000 grit, 3000 grit, and then 6000 grit.
Korin has a great video series on how to use whetstones. If you want to practice before you start trying to get the angles right on your real knives, that's fine. But bear in mind that sharpening is a process, and you're not going to fuck up one of your knives with one or two errant strokes.
Basically, buy the stones, watch a few videos, and then get to it.
Just buy a Japanese waterstone. They're really easy to use, and will sharpen anything to a razor edge. You don't need any kind of stand, just put it on a wet towel. 'King' brand are really good:
This is a link to the whetstone:
In terms of honing versus sharpening:
Even though the knife's edge looks smooth, it is in fact a ton of micro-sized teeth (think of a serrated knife, but with teeth that are muuuch smaller). As you cut, sometimes the teeth will become misaligned -- that is, instead of them all being pointed in the same, specific direction and angle, they might start "bending" or "blunting." When you hone the edge of a knife, you straighten out these teeth and realign them in one direction. Boom, it's cutting more smoothly now.
But sometimes, instead of the teeth simply bending in a different direction, the tip of the tooth might get chipped or broken due to use. Think of a sharp pencil tip that has accidentally snapped. Not so good at writing in a sharp line -- and the knife is not so good at cutting cleanly (it will blunt foods instead). At this point, you need to sharpen the knife by shaving off bits of steel, as you would the lead and wood from a pencil. Once it's sharpened, and you've scrapped off a microscopic thin layer of steel, the knife's teeth are all sharp and ready to go again.
Edit: And a link to a machine knife sharpener https://www.amazon.com/KitchenIQ-50009-Stage-Knife-Sharpener/dp/B001CQTLJM/ref=zg_bs_289867_1
You need a honing rod for a German steel knife like this. The one thing to watch out for though, and which is why you usually by a branded honing rod is that you need the steel of the rod to be harder than the knife. There are lots of cheap shitty honing rods out there with steel that's softer than the knife. You could throw on a King 1k/6k combination whetstone for any real sharpening needs. You really don't need anything lower than 1k grit unless you're regularly sharpening up a knife/cleaver that's going through a lot of bones or the aforementioned coconuts and gets serious edge damage often.
This is exactly what you are NOT looking for but I'll say it anyway... just to hear myself talk:
I just bought a Whetstone from amazon and am amazed how easy it is with the right equipment. I was using a diamond stone and gave up. This was cheap and I get a perfect edge in minutes. The edge lasts longer than using the diamond. Don't forget to use a steel everytime you use the knife anyway.
I would recommend a diamond stone over a traditional waterstone. They cost more money, but they cut faster, don't require water, are less messy and they never have to be flattened like waterstones.
DMT is a very good brand and comes in many different sizes and grits. I own this one and it makes for a very good general purpose sharpening stone.. It's double sided with coarse and fine sides. Unless you're sharpening knives daily it should last decades, if not the rest of your life.
If you're on a tighter budget I would recommend this traditional waterstone. It's basically the traditional version of the diamond stone I linked. This is the stone I started out with, but I hardly use if anymore after getting my DMT.
waterstones for sharpening and a honing rod for western knives (guessing that's what you have).
Something cheap but good for value like a King 1k/6k to get you going first.
Once you get better, you can always upgrade to nicer stones like Shapton, Naniwa, Suehiro, etc.
I use Japanese knives so I don't have a honing rod and can't recommend you one.
Gist of it
Soak stone 10 mins
Start 1k grit side, run each side 5 - 10 times (look up what a burr is)
Start 6k grit side, run each side 5 - 10 times (polishing)
optional - you can also strop it to make it sharper using newspaper, cardboard, leather
hone the knife (5-10 passes) end of every week after use
There are really good playlists like Korin or JKI but they can get pretty serious, detailed and sometimes overwhelming.
I like to watch Burrfection where it's more casual content.
I'm more of a Wenger 16999 guy
Fun fact, that specific knife is a collectors item and can be bought new on Amazon for $11,000. Downside is The Verge would still be unable to apply thermal paste properly.
I just bought This last week, the wife likes it and our TP use has dropped significantly.
Get one of these: Luxe Bidet
Best 40 bucks I have ever spent. I was having hemorrhoid problems off and on for months. Went to a proctologist, examined, given creams that did not work, and was told to consider surgery. I bought this and my hemorrhoids were gone in less than two weeks.
This is the one I bought almost 6 years ago (still working like a champ), but I see many newer models in Amazon, if you search for 'luxe bidet'.
A bidet? You can buy one here. I have one myself.
Think of it this way, if you got shit on any part of your body would you be comfortable with just wiping it off with paper? No? Then why do you do that on your ass?
This is what I got from Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001KKRCFA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
Not available now, but there are other options which I'm sure are just fine.
Pen and Notepad
Phone and Wallet
Edit: I'm bad at formatting.
I have the gerber shard on a bow shackle with one of those kingston usbs, only so the usb has some protection.
I work in the tech industry, but I'm not comfortable going too much further than that.
EDC (on my person):
Thingies on keychain:
But wait, there's more! Bonus Closeup Images
Watch. Really overpriced for this challenge but I don't really care.
FreeKey System, I've always wanted to try this
Light, already own it and I see no reason to change it
Gerber Shard, haven't seen anything that I think might be better, although I don't use all its features
I don't carry a knife.
You can buy the other two items for less than $20 shipped if you have Amazon prime
Who needs toilet paper when you can install one of these in less than 5 minutes?
This is what I got. It's great and only took 15-20 minutes for me to install. I kind of wish I got one with warm water hookups (around $60) for the coming winter.
Here's an example There's a nozzle inside that you can adjust back and forth for a higher/lower aim. There are dials on the side that control force and temperature. It's just a stream with a little force. It's very controlled. I've never had or have known of any incidents where it went or sent somewhere or something it shouldn't have.
Jazak Allah Khair for helping him out. No need to get angry. Remember that what you teach him will be written as a reward for you every time he does it. It's a great opportunity to gain a lot of rewards.
I am not sure about which you are talking.
If it's about Wudu, then explain to him that we are taught as Muslims to not waste water. And that getting water to where it should be is enough (i.e., in Wudu)
If it's cleaning up after visiting the bathroom then maybe you could consider [this] (http://www.amazon.com/Astor-Non-Electric-Mechanical-Toilet-Attachment/dp/B003TPGPUW/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1404518306&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=bidet) Or maybe swing by Home Depot and explain to them that you want to install a water spray bidet. It's very doable and here is a [video] (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4sT_wfTv7UI).
Good luck and May Allah reward you.
You should tell your Father in Law about these;
These would help him to stay clean during the week and reduce irritation to his sensitive areas.
Methinks there is more to this story because it's unlikely that a landlord would threaten an eviction in a smoking suite for smoking.
I can tell you this - you win more bees with honey. You're not going to get a positive reaction from your landlord by trying to force her to do anything let alone a maintenance item that may easily not be considered 'serious' at least, not in the sense of safety it's not.
If I were you, I would write an email to the landlord saying that the drafty window is bothering you and would it be ok if you covered the window with plastic film to keep it from drafting all winter.
This stuff goes on in about 5 minutes, and it's very effective in sealing off a drafty window. You peel it off in spring. No big deal. Problem solved.
If you're nice, the landlord will probably let you deduct the cost off your rent. If she's still pissed, well, it's only 20 bucks.
I don't think the stuff is that expensive.
This is what I suggest.
This is enough for 90 Square Feet.
You said you have a door to cover right? Assuming that the door is 36x80" you'd have enough film to cover (at least) four entry doors.
So I would say two boxes...that's like $25 plus the cost of painter's tape...so to be safe I would think you can do all of it for less than $50.
That, along with some doublestick tape will probably do the trick. BUT if I had my choice, I prefer this stuff because it's shrinkable and crystal clear. I've used it with excellent results in a house that was built in the 19teens and was drafty as heck.
Big box stores (Lowes, Home Depot, Menards, etc) should sell something comparable.
These will be your best friend. It's like saran wrap that you wrap the window frame (and window) in. You use a hairdryer to get it all tight and it creates a pocket of air for insulation. It doesn't help quite as much with sound, but it's shocking how well it helps with heat retention. That and curtains will help immensely (and will help with sound too) look for really thick ones, or the "blackout AND insulated" ones and it will help with heat and noise.
Or you can get a space heater, those things rock.
You also can talk to your roommate about it. "Hey, I've noticed it's been a bit chilly lately--" and see what happens.
I hope you get warm soon! Enjoy basking in your showers in the meantime!
Here’s what it looks like as suggested by u/bloodshotnipples 3M 2141BW-6 Indoor Window Insulator Kit, 5-Window https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00002NCJI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_rOPYDbMBJ0CYP you apply it with the adhesive and usually use a hair dryer to get it nice and sealed.
I'm still pretty new to this myself, but like you I have some electronics experience in the past. I just got this Weller 40w iron station with a desolder braid/sucker and a solder tip cleaner. Oh and a more precise tip for the solder iron
I'm really happy with it all so far, and couln't imagine needing more for a while. A heat gun would be nice for de-soldering and reflowing premade boards (like modding Boss pedals), but that can also be done with a regular solder iron as far as I know. You can get the above for about $60 total, so it's a nice way to get your feet wet without a huge investment. Then you gotta add on components/enclosures/pots/switches etc. Maybe get a helping hands and/or circuit holder if you need
Oh and get a good multimeter. I went a step up from the $20 ones and got this one which I'm also really happy with.
It depends what you are working on, but if you are working on through-hole and SMT in the under $40 price range I'd go with a Weller WLC100. It was my first iron and I used it for a long time before I finally upgraded (I still use it sometimes).
The stock tip was a little big for my taste so I bought a replacement (ST7) tip. The ST7 is a smaller conical tip. You can also find these on Amazon, but pay attention to the shipping if you order it off Amazon Marketplace, some 3rd party tool vendors will gouge you!
For the Fume extraction you should buy a fume extractor... heh. Pretty simple. I built my first fume extractor from an old PC power supply, an old exhaust fan, an articulating lamp base, some activated charcoal pads, and a length of dryer hose.
You can certainly go that route and build your own. It's nice if you already have the parts on hand, but eventually it became too unwieldy so I bought a Weller Fume Extractor. You can buy something similar for about half the price on Marlin P. Jones, but I was never able to catch them in stock.
Either way, look around, have fun, and good luck!
I am using this currently but this is coming in the mail tomorrow ;) along with some more lube and solder.
Edit: I have built all of my boards with the Weller without any issues. I also have a desoldering iron which is 10x better than the pump. If you ever plan on desoldering pick yourself up the desoldering iron for the extra 10 bucks. The solder pumps will break and you will end up spending that much on them anyways so its definitely worth it.
I started out with this one.
ANBES Soldering Iron Kit Electronics, 60W Adjustable Temperature Welding Tool, 5pcs Soldering Tips, Desoldering Pump, Soldering Iron Stand, Tweezers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XZ31W3M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_BFgFDbZKQ2TAX
The ferrule to tighten down the tips I accidentally screwed sideways and stripped the threads. So I can't use it anymore.
I upgraded to this and like it a lot. The only thing that stinks is you would have to buy a separate solder sucker.
Weller WLC100 40-Watt Soldering Station https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AS28UC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_FHgFDbX2G3J1V
I have this one now and I really like it a lot. I also use 60/40 solder. I hear people rant and rave about 63/37. Either way.
Weller has a $40 station that works pretty well
First.. what soldering iron are you using? Looks like it's not getting hot enough and the solder isn't getting up to temperature.
If you plan on soldering more maybe invest in something like this.. I've been using one for years and it's a wonderful soldering station. The cheapo walmart irons are usually not good at all.. even now being much better at soldering I still can't use one of those.
This is also a good starter setup.
Not sure about that one. Personally, I'd recommend this one. It has a station, where the one you linked is in a case. I don't really ever see a soldering iron being put into a case.
Get this one. 40 watts with adjustable level control. $40. A well known and reliable brand. I've had mine for years and it's been great. I would also suggest getting a few different sized tips for different projects. I almost always use the really thin pointy tip for greater control, but the wide blade tip that comes with this can be useful for things that require a lot of heat (desoldering chassis mounted cap cans for example).
Nice! It is rewarding knowing that you can repair and modify your guitar's wiring as you please, just gotta break the seal and do it that first time. As with anything, practice makes perfect. My solder jobs looked pretty terrible and messy the first several times I tried it, but the more I do it the cleaner and more professional they look. Youtube instruction videos are super helpful as well, and having a decent iron that's at least 40 watts makes things much easier (doesn't have to be too expensive, I use one of these and am very happy with it).
Also, Seth Lovers are a great call. I have them in my Les Paul and they're the definition of the classic PAF sound, lots of snap and clarity but also totally lush and warm and punchy. Perfect for pretty much anything short of metal imo.
Typically the better iron brands are Weller and Hakko, with their hobbyist-level stations being the WES51 and the 888D
I'm in the process of building my first FPV drone with my 11 year old son. Tools I owned or have purchased for this are:
A set of small screw drivers. I found a set in the bargain bin at NAPA Auto that had straight, philips, a few hex, a few sockets.
A decent electronics soldering station. Not the gun. I have a digital Weller that is easy to control, but the analog is just as good for these purposes.
A third hand. There are many different kinds. I got a cheap $5 one at Harbor Freight. Not great, but does the job.
Solder, de-soldering wick, flux (maybe)
Depending on where you're doing your work, might want an air-filter or fan.
A magnifying lamp is helpful but not necessary.
An assortment of board stand-offs/spacers is handy.
A good small pair of wire snips.
A digital multimeter is not a bad idea.
Those are all the major tools you might need. Plus all the drone parts. batteries/charger. Radio/receiver. Camera/receiver(goggles or screen).
In short, it's a lot of stuff. The drone parts end up being the least expensive part, honestly.
Above links are just examples, not necessarily endorsements.
You mentioned you're on a budget, which I totally understand. Building is not the cheapest route, but it's been a lot of fun so far. People who've done it for a while tend to forget the cost of tools. Once you've built one, subsequent drones are relatively cheap. You can re-use batteries, the charger, most decent radios, even the receiver.
If you're not in a hurry, Bangood is a good source for cheap(er) parts. You're on your own for support, usually, but there's lots of help out there.
Uvex Skyper Blue Light Blocking Computer Glasses with SCT-Orange Lens https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000USRG90/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_M5jIybS98Y61P
Dirt cheap, blocks pretty much all blue light. I can't even tell blue led indicator lights on electronics are on when I'm wearing them. They're mega sexy looking, though.
Flux is a good. If you go into the registry settings you can get your screen down below 1200K.
Best bet is to use blue blocking glasses. https://www.amazon.ca/Uvex-S1933X-Eyewear-SCT-Orange-Anti-Fog/dp/B000USRG90
Even better, blue/green blockers. https://www.amazon.ca/DEWALT-DW0714-Laser-Enhancement-Glasses/dp/B00093DJ4M
Sure, these are the ones I'm using
1A) Art of Electronics book (3rd edition)
1B) you can download old versions of many text books (this suggestion is not meant as a gift)
iGaging EZCal IP54 6" Inch/Metric/Fraction (#100-333-8):
USD 150 is a very good budget, you need to get some reliable and proper tool.
Soldering iron: https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-FX888D-23BY-Digital-Soldering-Station/dp/B00ANZRT4M/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1523249667&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=hakko+888
Cleaning wire: https://www.amazon.com/Hakko-599-029-Replacement-Insert-Cleaner/dp/B00Q88Q1ZG/ref=sr_1_2?s=industrial&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1523249854&amp;sr=1-2&amp;keywords=hakko+brass+wire
Helping hand (Optional ) https://www.amazon.com/SE-MZ101B-Helping-Magnifying-Glass/dp/B000RB38X8/ref=sr_1_1?s=industrial&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1523249902&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=soldering+helping+hands
I'd say so. It would take a bit of reading and practice, but you could do the version look mum has in his tutorial pretty easily with larger components..
The biggest challenge/cost sink I would say will be getting a decent soldering iron and learning to use it.. But with the stripboard he's using, it should be pretty painless.
Good Soldering iron
cheap (but good starter) iron
I may end up putting together some kits if I can figure out how to streamline some of this while keeping it affordable..
For general electronics use, it's hard to beat the Hakko FX888.
Essentially, yes - they're probably too cheap.
If you want good cables, you've got to pay up.
Or learn how to solder.
Buy this best soldering iron: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ANZRT4M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_oS34ybN5TT4V3
With this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003UIC78W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_dT34yb2BTQYXY
And this: http://www.redco.com/Mogami-W2319.html
Money well spent. Patch cables will cost you about $4-$5 to make and make excellent Christmas presents for friends and family.
get yourself a quality soldering station because temperature control is actually extremely useful. There are cheaper alternatives to the hakko f888 but everywhere i've been this particular station eventually finds its way into every electronics room.
Got a soldering iron for Christmas and dove right in. This is my third 60% build, and by far my favorite.
I'm still tweaking my QMK keymap, but will contribute it to the repo once I get it to a good spot.
Also to remove supports buy one of these and use the flat side towards the mini itself:
Micro Cutter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FZPDG1K?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Micro cutter: CHP-170 Micro Cutter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00FZPDG1K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_2189Bb5GM55MS
99% isopropyl alcohol
Hex wench set
Painters tape (I only use this for the purge line for PETG)
Might be worth getting a solder wick for when you inevitably screw up. Solder vacuum isn't a terrible idea either. I have both, I use them for different things. A third hand is also useful. I find myself using the glass more than the arms but it's all useful. If the iron you buy doesn't come with one a brass ball is great for keeping your tip clean without cooling it off like a sponge will. Micro-cutter is useful, not sure if angled or straight is better, up to you I guess. Last but not least a pair of angled tweezers. You can get those anywhere.
These are all the things I have within arm's reach when I'm doing a project. Have fun!
Current = Voltage / Resistance. Probably the single most important thing you need to understand to keep yourself safe. Steam-engine.org is a very handy site for rebuilding, and it has a simple Ohm's Law calculator. This will allow you to determine the current (amps) and power (watts) at a given resistance and voltage. When determining the current for a build on a mechanical, you always want to use 4.2v for your voltage setting since that will be the voltage of the fully charged cell. Setting your voltage as such and lowering the resistance on the Ohm's Law calcultor, you will see the current increase. You want to keep the current below the max continuous discharge rate for the battery, and just to be safe, I like to keep my amps at least 10%-20% below that max continuous rating. So you can see that with a fully charged battery at 4.2v, and a build with a resistance of 0.21Ω, you would be right at 20A.
If you are mainly looking to sub-ohm, don't bother with 18350 or 18490/500 batteries, and stick with 18650s. The most important part of the battery specs for safe sub-ohm vaping is going to be the max continuous discharge rating for the cell. A few months ago, I would have only suggested Sony VTC4s or VTC5s, due to their 30A continuous discharge rating, but due to price gouging and a rash of fakes due to limited availability I don't think those are going to be your best option. Next best thing at the moment is either the Samsung 25R or the LG HE2. Both are solid 2500mAh batteries with 20A continuous discharge.
The most important part of your gear to prevent your house from burning down, definitely don't skimp on the charger. I have an Efest LUC v4 which works wonderfully, and the Nitecore i-series chargers are also great, and you can't beat the price for the quality.
Having an ohm meter is a must have when rebuilding. This is going to tell you what the resistance of your build is once you get it on your RBA. The last thing you want is to vent a battery in a mod you are using, and if you have a short in your build, venting is definitely a possibility. You can just get yourself a cheap multimeter from some place like harbor freight, but I prefer the ohm meters that have the 510 connection. Less hassle, and it gives you a nice solid base for building on your RBA.
There are a number of different wicking materials in use, but the most common is cotton. I started out using organic cotton balls from my local pharmacy, but now I only use japanese cotton pads. The japanese cotton has blown up, mainly because of its form factor (very easy to cut strips to size from a square pad) and excellent wicking ability.
There are also some different types of wire available, but the most used (by far) would have to be Kanthal. I generally suggest picking up a couple different gauges to start. At the very least, I would say grab some 28ga and 26ga. If you are planning to try building below something like 0.4Ω, I would also grab some 24ga.
Soemthing to cut your wire, whether it is a small pair of wire snips, or even a set of nail clippers will work for most common gauges of Kanthal.
You are going to need something to wrap your coils on. A lot of people use drill bits since they have standardized sizes and that will help you determine (using something like http://www.steam-engine.org/coil.asp) how many wraps at a given inner diameter will give you the resistance you are looking for. You can also get small coil jigs that come with a set of rods of varying diameters. I prefer to use something like a jump ring mandrel. It has multiple diameters on the one tool to wrap on.
This and the section about RBAs is going to be very subjective. Plenty of mech mods out there function perfectly well, so when it comes to picking your mech, a lot of it will be aesthetics and form. In the end, all the mechanical mod is is a metal tube with a switch at one end and a 510 connector at the other. The two things that I tend to focus on when looking at a mech mod are how well the button functions (nothing more annoying to me than a crunchy button), and will I be able to easily adjust for battery rattle. There may be other feature that you are more concerned with, like does the unit have some sort of locking ring to prevent unintentional firing of the mod. Something to definitely consider if you are going to be carrying the mod in such a way that it could accidentally fire without your knowledge. I guess I will just link some of the mods that I prefer, like the SMPL, Pegasus, Colonial, and Vanilla. And I may as well throw a link in there for a Nemesis, since it is the go-to suggestion for first mech mod, and still a solid mod. Also, keep in mind that most if not all of these mods come in multiple color and/or metal options, including copper, brass, and stainless steel.
So when it comes to rebuildable atomizers, you basically have two options. Either you will be using an RDA (rebuildable dripping atomizer) or an RTA (rebuildable tank atomizer). Your RDAs have you dripping juice directly onto your coils with relatively little juice in reserve, whereas your RTAs have a tank that is filled, and then juice is wicked from the tank to the coils. As a general rule, RTAs give you the ability to have to fill/drip less often, but tend to be more restrictive on build space and airflow. On the other hand, you will have to repeatedly drip juice onto your build as you vape with an RDA, but will have more options for different builds and be able to provide the necessary airflow for hotter builds. Again, these are just general rules, as specific models of RDAs and RTAs have different features. As far as breaking down the specifics on all the different models of RDA and RTA...yeah, there are just too many to even start. Recently, I have mainly been using a Mephisto v1 clone. I like having the ability to run either dual or single coil, I like the changeable airflow rings, I like the available airflow, the well isn't too small, and it has large post holes and screws. I am also going to throw in a link for the TOBH, since it is the obligatory "first dripper" suggetsion. Since this single item is probably going to do the most to affect your experience, I would suggest just taking some time and looking at what RTAs and RDAs are available, and then check out some reviews of them on YouTube.
I am mostly recommending tools rather than consumables (like a truck load of filaments :P)
A digital caliper, use it every single day, must have. A $20 Chinese made should be more than sufficient for the tolerance we are printing at.
A pair of good quality side cutter. Prusa printers don’t come with them.
Hakko Micro Cutter
A Noga deburring tool. Very useful for finishing a print and trim sharp edges (brims for example). Cuts plastic like butter.
Noga Deburring Tool
A set of taps. Can’t get very strong thread in plastic, but often good enough. I would prefer a metric set.
A vise. Depends on how much space you have. I use a drill press vise and I find it ok so far.
Some of the less intuitive acccessories I've found helpful:
Here's the tools I use most frequently in 3d printing and assembly - I suspect you'll have most of these from modelling work:
https://www.amazon.co.uk/TP-LINK-HS100-TP-Link/dp/B0178IC734 my dude
$29.95 TP-Link Smart Plug, Wi-Fi, Works with Alexa https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0178IC734/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_OKy3xbNHF58GX
I am one that uses a flashlight a lot. I don't have a dozen different lights in my collection, I have 2. Those two are very similar, but there are a couple of differences.
The Thrunite Neutron 2C V3. I like this light a lot. It's my "use it 10+ times a day" light. It runs off of 1x 18650 cell (battery), 2xCR123, or a couple of other options. It has built in USB charging, it comes with a 18650 cell, it has adjustable brightness (ramping), and goes from .5 lm to 1040 lm. This thing is bright! Or dim, whichever you want. It just feels good.
My only 2 gigs against it: It takes a while to get used to finding the flat side switch in the dark. I no longer have any problem locating it, but when I first got it, it was a bit challenging. Second gig is that the lens is not replaceable. The lens being broken on mine has not affected the operation in the least, but I would like to replace it. Thrunite says that it's glued in and is not replaceable. ~$50 USD
My other light is a Thorfire TK18. It's pretty similar to the Neutron, but it has a tail switch. It does NOT come with a battery. It does not have On-board USB (or any other) charging, which means that you would need to buy cells and at least one charger. It feels ok in my hand, but I prefer the feel of the Neutron.
It is also adjustable brightness, but also has a Low/Med/High/Turbo mode which I prefer on this light. ~$29 + cell & charger.
Avoid those Atomic lights and their clones.
Wide area while also 300+ meters of throw? That’s gonna be a beefy light. And complete overkill for camping and hiking. Most folks are better served by using a smaller headlamp for flood, and a handheld thrower.
But you know what you want, and the Thrunight TN36 might be a good fit. If you already have batteries and a charger you can save some money buying the light alone, rather than the full kit.
Alternatively a Sofirn SP36 is cheaper while still almost matching your request. Provide it with these batteries to get the best performance out of it.
And maybe look at some beam shots from legit reviews. The lumen ratings on some of those “military grade tactical” things are straight up lies. 2000+ lumens in your pocket will set your pants on fire. (ask anyone with an Emisar D4)
Depends on what you need it for. [Wowtac A1S] (https://www.amazon.com/A1S-Flashlight-Pocket-Sized-WOWTAC-NW/dp/B07M5BV8P7/ref=sxin_3_ac_d_rm?ac_md=0-0-d293dGFjIGExcw%3D%3D-ac_d_rm&amp;keywords=wowtac+a1s&amp;pd_rd_i=B07M5BV8P7&amp;pd_rd_r=87edd49d-3423-4285-b39a-a400c6f26d02&amp;pd_rd_w=3a87c&amp;pd_rd_wg=aj6I2&amp;pf_rd_p=983984df-2ad2-4c97-ba7f-4c5a90291c2b&amp;pf_rd_r=SQZ7VJBHA7P696C8KF1D&amp;psc=1&amp;qid=1570875957) or [Sofirn SP31 v2.0] (https://www.amazon.com/Tactical-Flashlight-Features-Rechargeable-Battery/dp/B07FKJDH93/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=sofirn+sp31+v2&amp;qid=1570875985&amp;sr=8-1) for good budget edc lights, $26 and $36 respectively and both come with batteries. Looks like there's a 10% off coupon for the Sofirn on the listing so that's closer to $33. [Skilhunt H03] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07QNPHB43/?coliid=IO5EZ9P7F0TH8&amp;colid=LVIYOC1TPTP9&amp;psc=1&amp;ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it) for a good right angle headlamp that you can use as an edc, about $50 for the bundle that comes with a battery. [Sofirn SP40] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07XKST56M/?coliid=I28PCTS2ZHHV8I&amp;colid=LVIYOC1TPTP9&amp;psc=1&amp;ref_=lv_ov_lig_dp_it) for a more wallet friendly headlamp/edc thing, $31 and comes with a battery. [Sofirn C8T] (https://www.amazon.com/Flashlight-Lumens-Powered-Battery-Included/dp/B07PGNVTY9/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=sofirn+c8t&amp;qid=1570877317&amp;sr=8-1) for a super budget friendly throwy light, $23 and comes with a battery. Others mentioned are good, the [SP36] (https://www.amazon.com/Powerful-Flashlight-Rechargeable-Brightest-Excluded/dp/B07KFF5BGZ/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=sofirn+sp36&amp;qid=1570878581&amp;sr=8-3) would be right around your max if you have batteries laying around. $70 for the bundle that comes with batteries.
Window Insulation Kit.
Their ugly and a pain in the ass, but they really do reduce the amount of cold coming through your windows. You don't have to cover every window in the house, just the ones that matter, like one right next to your bed or maybe your bathroom.
This is good and here's what I would do.
How is the insulation in the place? Maybe convincing the landlord to let you add a few more inches of attic insulation might help.
You could also get thermally insulated blackout curtains. They reject more light and heat than blinds.
If you have single pane windows, consider window insulation film. https://www.amazon.com/3M-Indoor-Window-Insulator-5-Window/dp/B00002NCJI
Hardware store should sell kits of plastic you can install on inside of window for added insulation. How old is the house? Earlier than around 1970 and it will have almost no insulation at all.
So, there is a bunch you can do. Some of it is dependent on how much you have to spend and what the owner (maybe you, maybe not) is willing to do.
Your most cost effective bet is to a product like this on your windows. This will really cut down on drafts.
You can add drapes that cover much of the walls, which will help, but only marginally. This would be more expensive and should be done on top of the plastic film.
If you don't own the apartment, you can ask your landlord to do something about it, including putting in new windows or blowing in insulation.
As others noted, keep the door opened and make sure your vents are open. You can also use ceiling fans to improve air circulation.
I would generally avoid heaters as they can be fire hazards, but if you have to use one, buy one that is the appropriate size.
Indeed. However, if you've ever lived in a leaky apartment with electric heat, that can result in 3 very high electric bills.
Anyways, in my experience, Austin Energy doesn't help with apartments. Talk to your landlord, they may be able to help.
If you must DIY, which is pretty likely, the film can be obtained via Amazon for notably less than local purchase.
You can also install polyisocyanurate insulation on single-pane windows to further prevent heat transfer. Cut to press-fit into the window frame, then use duck tape to form an air-tight seal around the frame. It's pretty easy to work with, a boxcutter will make clean cuts through it. This helps a lot with through-the-glass heat transfer, but not with leaky window frames. You'll want to use paper to line the insulation (on the outside) to avoid complaints from the landlord, since you want to face the foil outwards for best results.
If you're like me and can't stand the cold, and like your apartment toasty in the winter, look for a unit with gas heat on your next move. Electric heat is way too expensive... Gas is more effective and significantly less expensive.
People normally buy window insulation kits like this. They also sell them in patio door sized sheets, which can easily be cut down to fit most larger tents.
Do you want to let light in?
Do you want MAXIMUM INSULATION(without actually rebuilding the house)?
Get a few blocks of this stuff and use it to cover your windows.
But really, what you want to do is make sure that your windows are all well caulked, that your doors fit well and things like that.
Cutting down on the air coming into your room around the windows will do a lot for helping keep you nice and toasty this winter.
Use the shrink wrap stuff.
If you aren't properly insulated, speace heaters won't help much.
Do you need to use the door? If not, you're better off doing a full plastic liner. Same with the windows
What is a tin window?
I'm a professional mechanical engineer and a Certified Energy Auditor per the AEE.
Here's a couple things I did for my house that helped. They might help you.
Weatherize the garage: Add a floor threshold to the garage. Best done in the summer. Replace the weather seal on the top and sides. Replace the garage door threshold. All Amazon links. Measure your door and get the correct dimensions. I just linked to general items.
Weatherize your outlets and light switches: All holes through the wall allow tempered air to leak out. (nice warm air in the winter, nice cool air in the summer). With a flathead screwdriver, you can add gasket seals to all of your switches and outlets to reduce air leakage.
Weatherize doors and windows: If there are doors and windows that you don't use often, or don't use for a season, seal them off. If you use a door more frequently, there's lots of draft dodgers to help seal the door. Growing up, if it got super cold, we'd take a spare down comforter and nail it to the wall, totally covering the door.
As far as thermostats go, changing out the thermostat to a wifi thermostat and/or a programmable thermostat will go a long ways towards energy savings. Nest is definitely the best thermostat out there, but I recognize that it's the most expensive. In my opinion, the Nest is the best one because it has the best developed home/away sensors, has a clean and slick easy-to-use app (even for 8 thermostats like you'd have), and easiest to use scheduler. Don't change just one thermostat. Change all of them. At the very least, change the thermostat to a programmable one.
In general, it would help to go through the weatherproofing page of Amazon and buy and install anything that applies to your home and apartment.
As far as capital equipment, replacing boilers with condensing boilers can help, but remember that condensing boilers provide the most savings at the
temperature extremes.during shoulder seasons. Consult a local professional mechanical engineer to determine if they will really benefit your location.
edit: had a brain fart when i wrote this. condensing boilers provide the most savings at the shoulder seasons. take a place like Fairbanks, AK, which, aside from this winter, generally spends most of the winter at the design outdoor temperature of -40. a condensing boiler operating at the design limit doesn't provide any more savings than a "standard" 80% AFUE efficient boiler. just doing my part to avoid spreading misinformation on the internet.
These save me every year! Seriously!
Available at any home store. Works great, cheap, removable.
Easiest & cheapest way is to get something like this to seal it up for the winter. It's not a permanent fix and you'd have to repeat it each winter, but it does work and work pretty well (especially for what you in Fla would call 'cold' :) )
Yeah, fireplace should be closed up - possible to lose more heat up the chimney than it provides. Is the damper closed? You can also stuff some insulation up into the chimney as a stop gap (don't want heat sucking up out of the house).
Now might be the time to put plastic on your windows. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/3M-Indoor-Window-Insulator-5-Window/dp/B00002NCJI
Can make a big difference if your windows are drafty.
Also, curtains. The thicker the better, but any curtains are better than no curtains. Just close 'em up at night and they'll reduce the amount of heat your house radiates out to the night sky through the windows.
Hardware stores, Lowe's, and probably Walmart have cling wrap. Measure your windows before you go, get a wrap a little bigger than the window, and apply with a hairdryer. Honestly, windows are so expensive that it's not worth fighting with your landlord to have them tell you no anyway—not legal advice.
3M 2141BW-6 Indoor Window Insulator Kit, 5-Window https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00002NCJI/ref=cm_sw_r_fm_apa_i_zqJVDbDW0ZH52
Low hanging fruit?? Put some shrink plastic on the windows.
The tape may take off paint in the spring so tape where it will be easy to touch up.
Depending on how good your windows are, you might consider covering them with a plastic film such as the one linked below. That could help your heat pump keep up in these cold days. You could also get a space heater of some sort to help out in the rooms you are in at the time.
They sell plastic sheets with double sided tape... it goes around the window and use a blow dryer to take wrinkles out of plastic, done!
Adds a layer of air insulation. Really helps stop drafts
Sounds like one of those places you could heat and heat and still not be real warm. Those old homes were meant for wood stoves and steam radiators. My grandmother had an old coal boiler in her home and when it was going you'd have to throw open all the windows.
Covering the windows with window plastic should pay for itself. Also, weatherstripping any leaks in exterior doors is fairly easy to DIY.
Yeah, it'll require soldering. You can get away with something relatively cheap, but if you want good results I wouldn't really recommend anything <$40. I've heard good things about this soldering station but I have no idea what the 1-5 adjustments actually correspond to for temperature.
If you'd rather, I'm offering free assembly services right now, but it really doesn't look like a hard board to work with. I'd say it's a good beginner project.
How much are you going to be making electronics a hobby? If you're just going to be soldering some boards occasionally you could save a bit on the iron and get this Weller. Also a cleaner. If you go with the 888 that will have a wire cleaner built in. I'm getting old so I personally would recommend at least a magnifying glass. I have this helping hand The clips didn't do much for me but the glass did. There are times where the switch pin just gets lost and the glass helped a lot. I also picked up this kit when I started, primarily for the sucker, but I thought the other tools may come in handy. So far they haven't, other than the solder. The first time I tried to use the sucker I could not get it to work correctly, I just wasn't getting enough of a seal around the hot solder, thinking I'd melt the tip, so I ended up buying a different pump that I still have never used, because I eventually DID learn to use the cheaper sucker. I also can't make solder wick work properly, apparently. If this is your first time soldering/desoldering I recommend getting a cheap practice kit that you don't care if you ruin. I can recommend this one as it has you intentionally foul up joins so you can learn to fix them. You won't need strippers. Flush cutters would be helpful if you need to trim the pcb mount legs off your switches (like Zealios, which you will if you have a GH60 Satan pcb) or trimming LEDs. Work mat would be helpful to keep your work area clean but not necessary. You will need a small screwdriver but I can't remember what size. Tweezers or one of these grabber thingies are always helpful when the screw flips sideways when you are trying to seat it. I used this solder on 3 builds so far and have had no issues with joins failing.
Everyone here is recommending you buy a soldering station - which is 3 times the cost of the full kit you linked which is absurd. The Hakko 888 is fantastic, but not what should be recommended in this scenario.
Honestly what you linked is likely crap and will probably frustrate you away from the hobby. If you get something with easy-to-buy interchangeable tips, it will help you a lot. Something like: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AS28UC/ may be a bit better of a deal and will be fine for learning. Also grab yourself some well-reviewed solder (rosin-core is fine), a cheap solder wick, cheap solder sucker, and a flux pen (flux will only be necessary if you are re-working - something you may do a lot when you start).
If you are looking for a cheap multimeter as well, anything will likely be good enough. Buy whatever has a feature set you think you need. Just note, that I wouldn't recommend measuring anything like mains AC with a cheap meter. Stick to low voltage ( < 50V) DC and you'l be fine. One of my favorite meters is the VC921 pocket DMM. It can be had for ~$10 and is accurate enough for me with a good feature set. Just note that it doesn't do current measurements. If you think you may get into electronics long term I recommend investing a nice meter. Fluke is the go-to brand-name, but there are many who will work just as well. Fluke 101 is ~$40 and will do everything besides current readings. If you want current, I recommend stepping up to the Fluke 107.
Also not a fan of all of the tools in that kit you linked. A lot seem un-necessary or extra cheap. These are expensive, but Adafruit and Sparkfun are great and reliable sources for hobbyists and have similar kits:
Good quality as in: Will work for Nerf stuff for a while, or solid build quality where you won't have to replace it often?
If you want to go for something that's no-worries and will probably last for the foreseeable future, the Hakko FX888 is SOLID.
Anything else I'd consider "nice" would have to have a soldering iron holder and temperature control that I trust. Very nice features, because if you leave the iron sitting for a while and don't tin the tip, the heat will start to oxidize/damage the finish of the tip and become unusable. This can also happen on any iron if you leave it running hot for a while, but something that's temperature-controlled rather than with an arbitrary power knob will keep your iron tip intact much longer.
Mid-tier would be something with variable power control but not temp control. You might be able to get away with lowering the power while you work instead of turning it off.
The "Amazon Special" that UNW1 linked is a fantastic soldering iron for the price, plenty of power whereas other cheap irons won't heat up quickly enough. I'd recommend it for most people starting out, since it's great for learning the basics + soldering iron care. There is practically no temperature control on the thing though. I turned it way down to minimum (Claimed 200-250C, which is nowhere near hot enough to melt solder) and it still threatened to overheat.
I've heard of irons that are even better than the Hakko/similar models in terms of where the heating element's located, other features... but I don't have much expertise in the field and haven't seen a need for those. As far as I'm concerned, $100 is as high as you need to go for now, and $50 can probably get you set up with a solid iron.
If you can up your price range a bit I've got this iron and rather like it. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AS28UC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_4D.wCbHNZGMGS
But if you're willing to spend $100 the difference in performance is incredible.
I got this one as my first and only solder station and it's worked out great for making cables and such. It's not temperature controlled (but does have a temperature knob) but as I understand it you don't really need that unless you're doing more complex stuff.
I also got a narrower tip on eBay for about 5 bucks, but really only needed that for the Hifiman SMC connectors, I got by with everything else fine with the stock tip
At home, I've been using my Weller WLC100 for 10 years now. I can solder down to 0.65mm pitch pretty reliably. You just gotta find that sweet spot with the temperature knob. For me its like 3.25. If you want to solder that fine of a pitch, you'll need a magnifier of some sort though. It'll make it way easier
$40, tips extra
I mainly use this tip
I'm excited to see what others recommend. I'm a mech e and only solder about once a week max, usually as a hobbyist on a budget, so at home I have the Weller WLC100 40-Watt Soldering Station https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AS28UC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_cuz3BbDZDT93R which i consider a great value for a reliable entry level unit, and freed up money to spend on other related equipment that is more important to me, like high quality helping hands, decent solder sucker, solder tips, that wire sponge tip cleaner doodad, a rubber mat, nice fan, and even good wire and proto boards. I don't use the heat gun on a regular basis, but the unit at work is a 852D 2 in 1 combo unit and I don't like how much desk space it takes up, so I prefer a separate mid tier or even chepo heat gun, since I rarely use it. Grain of salt, I only use it for melting adhesive or shrinking wrap or random stuff, so I defer to others for good heat gun advice more in line with your use case.
edit: updated the part number for the 2 in 1
I'm happy with this one: http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AS28UC/
In between cheap and expensive. I did need to buy a thinner (sharper?) tip for soldering small electronic stuff.
That stand type, which I've used, is pretty useless. I would personally recommend the classic 40W Weller station
Weller WLC100 40-Watt Soldering Station https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000AS28UC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_o2QwzbGGCK046
Also had to get a fine tip from HHL
I have several that I use. My standard is a Weller WLC 100 that I have been using for the last 10 years. I have built and repaired several amps with this iron.
There are nicer soldering irons out there but I bare minimum would be Weller WLC100
I just had a similar misshap! How weird. I got lucky since the model name and number were written on the soldering iron itself so I could get a new one cheaply. You need a new "Soldering Iron" not a new "Soldering Station" I believe. You can plug a really simple iron into a very nice station and have all the benefits of the station temp controller and so on, I think. I've got a WLC100 and the replacement soldering iron is called the SPG40
There's tons of tutorials online if you really want to learn how to solder. Bear in mind that (like a lot of things) good soldering is the result of decent tools but mostly a bit of practice. It's not a difficult skill to learn, though.
Some tips off the top of my head:
Buy a decent iron if this is something you want to spend more than a few hours on. Something that can get hot enough so it doesn't wimp out soldering heavy ground connections, terminal strips etc. Don't crank up the heat too much if you're just soldering small components, but don't be a pussy with the heat dial if shit isn't melting fast enough for your liking.
This is possibly my favorite tool I've ever owned. It's more expensive than those small, flimsy solder suckers but it's much more effective and will last forever. Don't dick around with desoldering braid/wicks if you don't have to. IME they aren't very effective, are hard to use, and heat up the board/components too much. For certain applications (maybe surface mount) it can be handy but with through-hole components a spring loaded solder sucker like the Soldapullt is king.
Use rosin core solder, and don't use lead free solder if you're in the US. Lead free solder is a bit more difficult to use.
...that's it for now. Have fun.
I'm going through the same journey right now. Here are a few of the things I picked up. The first 3 are the actual soldering equipment/materials you will need. The fourth is a good electronic screwdriver set and tweezers (not required but useful).
I’m using this one.
if you still need to get an iron, i suggest one of these: http://www.amazon.com/Weller-WLC100-40-Watt-Soldering-Station/dp/B000AS28UC you can buy them at Altex on I35. but like the other person said, if you just need to solder one thing, SXSW Create (where the maker booth is) is free, and full of soldering irons. Opens at 11 tomorrow morning.
Would love this for camping and I still don't own a right angle!
Thanks for the kind gesture!
[Here] (https://www.amazon.com/Headlamp-Headlight-Rechargeable-Waterproof-Headlamps/dp/B071HW5XQH/ref=sr_1_5?crid=5UIIBY2BTUF4&amp;keywords=wowtac+a1s&amp;qid=1567408009&amp;s=gateway&amp;sprefix=wowt%2Caps%2C154&amp;sr=8-5) is a headlamp I use.
Cycling though brightness levels is by just holding down the switch. No need for clicking. The less necessary and used modes like SOS and firefly are hidden so you don't accidentally go there. Plus, it has last mode memory which is very important to me.
Edit; I see others have said Wowtac. Really, really good headlamp. I'm a mechanic and it has held up to all the dirty abuse that comes from that.
I just picked up this one
I'd also suggest neutral white.
If you'd rather a handheld (or even get one of each) there is the A1S. Both are acceptable introductory low cost lights.
Amazon UK also stock a range of olights, I've not got one but I hear good things about them.
You would probably be better off buying something new from Wowtac or Skillhunt on amazon. Wowtac A2s f=or like $30 would be great. Not a tail switch, but as a right angle/ headlamp it is much more optimal for camping.
Wowtac A2S NW Comes with a battery that directly plugs in to charge. Decent throw, Headlamp that can be handheld.
Really solid option right now, and available from Amazon UK
Thank you for the giveaway and amazing website!
Wowtac A2S NW
I'm definitely interested in the [Wowtac A2S](
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075ZN5LJY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_YoHaAbGST9NRQ) - altho I still hate their name choice.
Wowtac A25 Neutral White
Thanks for doing this.
Wowtac A2S Neutral White
Please and thank you!
Thanks as always Para! wowtac a2s neutral white
Would love this one :P
Count me in for the Wowtac A2. Thanks!
Wowtac A2S NW
You are rad.
I appreciate your generosity! I'm in for this also.
Wowtac A2S NW thanks for doing this!
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075ZN5LJY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_YoHaAbGST9NRQ. Thank you!
Wowtac A2S in neutral white
I appreciate the generosity!
Wowtac A2S NW
Thanks for the giveaway and all the helpful resources!
A Wowtac A2 would be a welcome addition. Thanks for doing this.
Sign up me for the
Wowtac A2S Neutral White
Wowtac A2S Neutral White
This is awesome. Good luck everyone.
Thanks for the giveaway, In for the Wowtac A2 NW
Wowtac A2S NW, and if it's kosher to add another thing to reach $40, then a ThruNite T01.
Otherwise the S1R on sale right now.
Thanks for doing this giveaway!
Wowtac A2S NW thanks for the givingaway!
100 lumens and IPX-4 waterproof rating leave a lot to be desired. Visit /r/flashlight for a proper recommendation (refer to the sidebar for recommendation form if on desktop). Great community over there. They love to help.
For a budget option Wowtac A2 or Skilhunt H03 are mainstay recommendations. If AA form factor is more your style the ThruNite TH20 is another option.
WOWTAC A2S LED Headlamp Headlight 5 Modes Max 1050 Lumen Waterproof Headlamps, Super Bright Outdoor Sports Running Walking Camping Reading Hiking Fishing Neutral White https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075ZN5LJY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_QkcMDbDFE54P2
Can some comment on how floody the Wowrac A2s is? Not rechargeable if that is a problem.
Panda 2R 4200K, Panda 3R 4200K, throw+flood
21% off until 12/08. Bmengineer reviews.
> BF2019 – 21% for any YLP-lights (valid until 08.12.2019)
thanks for the giveaway. i'll try for the wowtac- https://www.amazon.com/Wowtac-A2S-Neutral-White/dp/B075ZN5LJY
I like the 50% price limit idea. glad you found a way to keep the giveaways going.
Thank you as always!
Wowtac a2s neutral white.
Thanks for the giveaway :)
Invest in a bidet attachment for the home commode and that number will decline sharply. Plus, it's much cleaner.
Easy to install and 27 bucks from Amazon - http://www.amazon.com/Astor-Non-Electric-Mechanical-Attachment-CB-1000/dp/B003TPGPUW/
Oué c'est un truc comme ca.
Not OP, but I have this one and it's awesome!
Or you could get this amazing bidet! I actually bought this after another redditor posted it on a thread years back. Changed my life. Plus it's less than $30 and it was super easy for my husband to set up.
Well, to be fair, you can get a simple bidet on Amazon for $25. In the long run, it'd end up costing less since its life span is certainly longer than toilet paper.
the nozzle isnt in the water, it connects to your water line not the bowl water. and every bidet ive used/ seen has the auto retracting nozzle so its never exposed unless its on. best 25 bucks you could ever spend right here
> You can buy an attachment for a normal toilet?
They aren't motorized, they use the pressure from the water pipe to shoot the water at your poop hole. I have one similar to that and it works fine. The heated ones seem nicer, but cold water won't hurt you and it'll wake you up in the morning.
Shoutout for the toilet bidet kit. A stool makes you a prince, but a bidet makes you a king.
Nope American. A friend had brought it up that he got one recently and it was great so i decided to go for it. Got this one. They turned out to be cheaper than I thought they would be and it works great.
Here you go. I've had two of these for three years now with no problems.
Bidet user reporting in, clean and sparkling booty all year round.
I bought mine 3 years ago for $50, now they're half the price from the same company. Very reliable, just don't ever EVER go full pressure directly in to the tender pink donut.
This is the exact bidet I use, it's even on sale.
You can thank me later
Just installed this bad boy today. Super easy, took about 20 minutes.
I had pretty much the same reaction, with one minor difference. I had a brief, high-pitched scream at the beginning (described by my neighbor as "hyena-like"). That was followed by a mad scramble for the spray control knob, then another few seconds of unsticking my now wet shirt from my back while I repositioned for round 2. From that point on, though... exactly like yours.
Pro tip: it doesn't matter how tough you think you are, do not start off on the highest setting. You need to work your way up to that shit.
You can buy a 24.99 bidet attachment on Amazon that goes under the seat, easy to install uninstall and move even when renting. I've brought one of these with me to a hotel before--5 min install coming in, uninstall on the way out.
Connects in between the water line and the tank. No more poopy butt.
Haven't bought yet but that seems to be the best rated and most popular on Amazon. In the end they're all designed to shoot water at your ass so the only really difference in most is the dial lol.
Luxe Bidet Neo 120 - Self Cleaning Nozzle - Fresh Water Non-Electric Mechanical Bidet Toilet Attachment (blue and white) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A0RHSJO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_u6HoDbSTZHPMV
Lol I felt the exact same way! My hubby really wanted to try one and I was iffy about it. Then I read some reviews:
We aren't the only ones who were unsure. I will tell you this- it took a few tries to get used to it, but now, I really don't like going anywhere other than the bathroom with the bidet. If you try it I think you might be pleasantly surprised! (and no- I'm not a Big Bidet Shill, just a happy bidet owner. America is way behind the times on this. The rest of the world things it's crazy to NOT use one.)
I have this one and don't know how I lived without it.
Luxe Bidet Neo 120 - Self Cleaning Nozzle - Fresh Water Non-Electric Mechanical Bidet Toilet Attachment (blue and white) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A0RHSJO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_y7ZCxbZ57VF12
Less than $40 right now. Get it, you’ll love it! But, go very light on the pressure...i can’t imagine why anyone or how anyone would use the #10 setting, lol.
Luxe Bidet Neo 120 - Self Cleaning Nozzle - Fresh Water Non-Electric Mechanical Bidet Toilet Attachment (blue and white) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A0RHSJO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_RxZnDbNVJXDDB
Luxe Bidet Neo 120 - Self Cleaning Nozzle - Fresh Water Non-Electric Mechanical Bidet Toilet Attachment (blue and white) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A0RHSJO?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
Yes! https://www.amazon.com/Luxe-Bidet-Neo-185-Elite/dp/B00P2XZIP2/ref=sr_1_3 This is the dual nozzle for feminine cleaning and rear. If you only need rear, get the single nozzle model https://www.amazon.com/Luxe-Bidet-Neo-120-Non-Electric/dp/B00A0RHSJO/ref=sr_1_4
There are 2 types of bidets. There’s what you described but there are also super cheap add ons you can get to an existing toilet. I spend around $30 on mine and it only took probably 20 minutes to install, with zero damage to the toilet, floor, wall anything. No additional plumbing needed either.
I think it was this one: https://www.amazon.com/Luxe-Bidet-Neo-120-Non-Electric/dp/B00A0RHSJO/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1550391056&amp;sr=8-3&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=bidet&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=419LXSZM6YL&amp;ref=plSrch
Why not just get one now? Just attach this one to your toilet.
Hello, sorry to hijack your comment but I have a question for you as someone who works in a hotel if you don't mind. I will be staying in a hotel for 4 months (paid by my employer) while I finish the job training. I use a toilet bidet like This one in my house, and I honestly feel like I can't live without it. Would something like this be allowed in my hotel room? There is no plumbing that needs to be done, the bidet connects directly to the toilet pipe and it's very easy to install. Again sorry for the off topic question but I really don't know where to ask this.
We've only been able to convert one person in our immediate circle of friends. And the guy's wife won't even use it. My mother screamed when she tried it at my house, which was at least entertaining... ;)
This is the one we have. Luxe Bidet Attachment on Amazon
Amazon Luxe 120
Just a heads up, but you can get a $25-35 bidet attachment for any regular toilet. They work pretty well.
My buddy has this one and swears by it. He lives in the south, so the cold water isn't as big of a deal. I live in MN so the heated one is necessary.
This is the one I got.
Luxe Bidet Neo 120 - Self Cleaning Nozzle - Fresh Water Non-Electric Mechanical Bidet Toilet Attachment (blue and white) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A0RHSJO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_HbAtBcYKEFmk4
It works, but it hits my asshole at such force that the spray shoots out from my ass, under the seat, and down my legs. This is on the lowest pressure setting too.
Luxe Bidet Neo 120 - Self Cleaning Nozzle - Fresh Water Non-Electric Mechanical Bidet Toilet Attachment (blue and white) https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B00A0RHSJO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_5gyyCbHB0HQGD
This is the one I have, can't go back.
A bidet. I bought one after someone in a thread exactly like this suggested it, and it's as life-changing as they said it would be. https://www.amazon.com/Luxe-Bidet-Neo-120-Non-Electric/dp/B00A0RHSJO (Don't forget to use Amazon smile if you buy it.....doctors without borders could use the help)
We recently got this one and installation was simple. https://www.amazon.com/Luxe-Bidet-Neo-120-Non-Electric/dp/B00A0RHSJO/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=luxe+bidet&amp;qid=1550727061&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-3 Since we've had it, I have thought "more women need these, especially postpartum and when menstruating." Useful for sure. And I say this as someone who was totally resistant to the idea.
Rather than baby wipes, invest in a simple mechanical bidet. We've got this model and love it so much that we've given them as housewarming gifts and I've even installed them at my office so I don't have to poop like a savage during the workday...! Trust me - with the bidet, you're shower-fresh every single time, and you'll never want to go back to just toilet paper.
And you can help your husband get over the embarrassment with a little help from Parks & Rec...
Go buy a bidet. Seriously one of the best $35-$50 you can spend. After a month, I ended up buying one for each bathroom, my parent's house, and even a couple of friends.
Buy this valve too, it helps with the install.
Lux Bidet. $38 at Amazon
Luxe Bidet Neo 120 - Self Cleaning Nozzle - Fresh Water Non-Electric Mechanical Bidet Toilet Attachment (blue and white) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A0RHSJO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_vVsNDb0WQ25F8
My Shiny Hiney commercial... It saddens me that Bidets still aren't a thing in the U.S.
Seriously - go buy and install one. It will cost you $35 on Amazon. Your butt will thank you. You also will not use nearly as much toilet paper. The one I linked is the one I have in my apartment. It took 10 minutes to install. You'll recoup that $35 in savings on toilet paper.
It seems that your comment contains 1 or more links that are hard to tap for mobile users.
I will extend those so they're easier for our sausage fingers to click!
Here is link number 1 - Previous text "$35"
Here is link number 2 - Previous text "$48"
^Please ^PM ^/u/eganwall ^with ^issues ^or ^feedback! ^| ^Delete
They're pretty sweet especially if you have a hairy ass.
I've had no problems with this one:
I swear every person in the US needs to get one. Totally changed the way I poop. I go through like one roll of toilet paper every month or two, I always feel refreshed, and I never get swamp ass. Buy this thing RIGHT NOW. It installs in less than 5 minutes.
I bought this one
Not only will your ass be squeeky clean, but your tp bill will pay for the bidet in a month or two.
Plus it feels kinda good.
Yeah, Toto Washlets are the shit. But if you don't want to spend that much money, for like $40 you can get a very effective alternative.
It'll change your life. Highly recommended for anyone with an asshole.
But when we replace this toilet were getting a true bidet toilet.
Since colorectal cancer is on the rise, and earlier in today's sub someone mentioned bidet attachments for their toilet -- I think we should take a moment to appreciate this review of the top selling bidet attachment on Amazon:
>Speaking as a hirsute gentleman, the Luxe Bidet Neo 120 has soured me on pooping in bidet-less toilets forever. It's shown me the difference between rubbing peanut butter out of shag carpeting with a paper towel, and that sparkling clean feeling you get right when you step out of the shower.
>The unit took me all of about 10 minutes to install on my existing toilet with only a wrench. The easy-to-control flow valve allows you to provide just the right amount of water pressure for a full range of cleaning, from "gentle trickling stream" to "full-on 'Silkwood' decontamination", ensuring the end of your bowel movement leaves you feeling cleaner and more refreshed than using just toilet paper alone. Even flush-able wet wipes pale in comparison.
I hope to report back on the state of my rectal health shortly after a few weeks of use. Hemorrhoids be damned!
I have this one...
It's only $40. There really is no excuse for smearing feces all over your anus.
A bidet will change your life.
What's the difference?
get a bidet. will change your life. Used to take me maybe 25 wipes (and I would always put water on my toilet paper to clean better). Now it takes me about 6-7. Imagine getting shit on your arm, would you simply wipe it with tp 25 times and call it good? No, you would rinse that shit off first with water, wipe some more. So why is your ass any different? It isn't. Get a bidet. You will use less TP and thus have a less chafed asshole, no more itchy asshole if you ever had that issue.
> less than $100
Highly recommend the Hakko FX-888 Soldering station. It uses a ceramic heating element for fast recovery and instant heat-up times.
I've tried to use my cheap Radio Shack iron to rewire, results where not good. Cold welds and it took forever.
Meh. For the asking price it's not a terrible deal, but the kit is low quality. I wouldn't bother with it. Get one of these instead. That offers a greater range of temperatures, and uses a digital controller.
I did that too- the flux program? These are just orange glasses (like workman's glasses, I got them for $9 on Amazon) that block ALL of the blue light that inhibits melatonin production. If you read the Amazon reviews, a lot of people have success with them when nothing else worked (including pharmaceuticals!).
If you can't stop these activities altogether, you can get flux and/or blue-blocking glasses to cut down on the blue light from screens which inhibits melatonin. These work very well, although not perfectly. It's also why I'm a strong opponent of tablets for book-reading - get a kindle/nook.
I really like my streamlight stylus pro. I've used and carried out every day for almost two years and I've changed the batteries twice. but it looks like it would be too long for your pouch. The Streamlight MicroStream might fit. It's the same as the one use but it has one AA battery instead of two.
Top to Bottom, Left to Right...
Check out this one. This might be just what you're looking for.
From L-R, T-B
(not at school carry)
OLight i3S EOS (twisty, but it's super easy to use one handed)
EDIT: Added links to everything and corrected some details.
This is my edc light, small and convenient. $16 on Amazon.
Streamlight MicroStream Ultra-compact Aluminum body with AAA Alkaline Battery, 3.5 Inch - 1.04 oz (Black) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00143JZ08/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_an.mzbQCZBMFE
You have to help us out with some details here. What do you like to do?
When you start carrying a keychain, having a small multitool can come in handy. I've also wanted to add a little flashlight to my lanyard.
I've been carrying a Streamlight Microstream and love it. Fits in my pocket, sturdy, and extremely bright considering it runs on a single AAA. It's one of the only affordable lights I've seen at this size that has a tailcap instead of a twist too: https://www.amazon.com/Streamlight-66318-MicroStream-LED-Light/dp/B00143JZ08
Links to items. If there isn't a separate link to purchase then they can be purchased from the manufacturers website.
Outside of the belt:
Inside belt, clockwise from noon/top:
Not pictured: Tri-fold John Deere Wallet containing cash, debit card, Google Wallet card, driver's license, insurance card, and handgun license.
Takes 1 AAA Battery and is not much larger
That looks like an off brand of this one that I have. Streamlight 66318 MicroStream C4 LED Pen Light https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00143JZ08/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_QfDkybE1KNX5F
The leatherman squirt is my vote:
Leatherman 831195 Squirt PS4 Black Keychain Tool with Plier https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0032Y2OT6/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_g--9ub16GVE55
Or a flashlight like this: Streamlight 66318 MicroStream C4 LED Pen Flashlight https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00143JZ08/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_4--9ub0V16HNV
I have both the Streamlight stylus pro and the Streamlight Protac 2xAA. Both are solid.
The protac has three modes, high -> strobe -> low. Pretty useful, but it takes some getting used to to actually select the one you want. The button on the stylus is very stiff at first, as well.
I`m sure you'll get a lot of great responses with suggestions but I was in the same position recently and I found the streamlight stylus pro fit what I was looking for. It has a metal body so it's really durable, 48 lumens (brightest I could find), and produces a really good stream of bight light. It was also about 20 bucks. It works really well for me and idk why it wouldnt for you but at least give it a look. Below is a amazon link. Im posting from my mobile so sorry for any formating errors.
I have my own stethescope; I'm not a fan of other peoples junk in my ears. It's easy to go down the path of having all the gadgets, but honestly, most of the stuff you'll cary will be ambulance/company stock. Things like pens, penlights, trauma sheers, extra gloves.
I always have a small folding blade on me (I'm in NH so no clue whats legal there). As far as essential supplies I keep on hand all the time, a bottle of 5 hour energy for that 3AM transfer, a pack of gum and a zippo. Multitools are pretty standard fair, as well as a beefier penlight. I like mine cause It beats the giant maglights we keep on the truck and it's useful for probing into pockets (You told me there weren't any needles on you, and yet what's this in your breast pocket?)
Remember it's less of what you have and more of how it is presented. Dont be this guy
Thanks for doing this!
I carry a streamlight stylus pro as my edc light: http://www.amazon.com/Streamlight-66118-Stylus-Flashlight-Holster/dp/B0015UC17E/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1370112360&amp;sr=8-6&amp;keywords=pen+light
I'm a sound guy, I can help:
-Six pack of plain black tee shirts
-Pack of black hair ties for his pony tail
-Gift card to Old Navy (so he can restock on cargo shorts)
-Nice beard trimmer for his goatee
All kidding aside, a simple but often appreciated gift would be something like a nice small flashlight. You can never have too many. I like this one.
Your pricing figures are a bit off.
20-30 will get you one of several different models of Streamlight, Terralux, or Inova flashlights. All of these significantly outperform the Maglite and come from reputable manufacturers with lifetime warranties. Inova and particularly Streamlight flashlights are popular with service personnel due to their reputation for tolerating rough treatment.
I wouldn't pay significantly more for flashlight nowadays. In the last few years, technology has progressed to the point where even the low-end lights can reliably do the job for the vast majority of applications.
my flashlight came with a small holster I carry on my belt in front of the second loop going clockwise (about 2:45) I keep my knife clipped to the inside of my jeans so that the holster is covering the clip, the clip sits on my jeans and the knife is pressed against my underwear (makes pulling my pants up difficult but ive gotten used to it) ive been pulled over by police twice while carrying this way (in NH and FL) and have never been told what i'm doing is wrong, that's how I carry, but rules may be different by you
I love my Streamlight Stylus Pro. It's about the size of a Sharpie. I keep mine in a pen pocket on my uniform, and it's a great "quick draw" light. It pumps out 48 lumens, which is all you need for up-close and smaller areas. Best part is it's only twenty bucks.
Not bad. A few items from my EDC if you're interested:
My pen light.
My trauma shears.
Edit: a few more.
Hip clip. I've gradually come to prefer wearing my stethoscope this way. And for goodness sake, DON'T leave yours on the rearview mirror of your car. Ever. Repeated heating/cooling caused my Cardio III to crack at the point where it hung from the mirror.
Reflex hammer. Mine isn't as cool as this one...
I grabbed this one over the holidays, and it's been great so far.
A good reliable flashlight is invaluable when you need it, get a good one cheap flashlight tend not to work when you need them most. I recommend these pen lights they're compact, very bright and durable. http://www.amazon.com/Streamlight-66118-Stylus-Flashlight-Holster/sim/B0015UC17E/2
Streamlight StylusPro LED Penlight
Cheaper Than Dirt has them for $20
EDIT: Thanks to danger_one from the other thread, they are also available at a place called Camping Survival for $20 - http://www.campingsurvival.com/waemdrwast.html
and on Amazon for $30 - http://www.amazon.com/waterBOB-Emergency-Drinking-Water-Storage/dp/B001AXLUX2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1314394973&amp;sr=8-10
While I'm not one to discourage people from cleaning their bathrooms, I would think a 65-100 gallon water bladder would be a safer/smarter way to store drinking water in the tub (or in general): https://www.amazon.com/WaterBOB-Emergency-Container-Drinking-Hurricane/dp/B001AXLUX2
pro tip - Get a water storage bag for your bath tub $20 so you can store 100 gallons of clean drinking water as soon as you hear an emergency happening. Great emergency investment
A vending machine-style can rotator. You can buy one or you can customized it DIY.
The best way I've found for water storage, outside of cisterns and towers, is the emergency waterBOB which is designed to fit 100gallons into a standard bathtub. Not for long term storage, though. Or the water brick, which you can stack into nearly any pattern you want.
Every bit of space counts. And here. More organization here, here, here, and here.
You can even add storage in your backyard.
Really it's only limited by your space and your imagination.
The reviews are the best part.
He's not joking.
The product reviews are pure gold :-)
Blogger/podcaster/bidet enthusiast Lex Friedman wrote about his favorite bidet here. He's partial to the Luxe Bidet MB110. I'm tempted to try one in my next home. I don't know how BIFL it is, but at this price it's worth a shot.
You can purchase what are basically bidet attachments for your toilet on Amazon for less than $40: http://www.amazon.com/Luxe-MB110-Non-Electric-Mechanical-Attachment/dp/B001KKRCFA/ref=lp_686953011_1_1?s=kitchen-bath&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1382488531&amp;sr=1-1
Warning: CAN BE SUPER COLD. So pucker up.
Shit, Shower, Shave.
It's in that order for a reason.
Add-on bidet and TP to dry if the schedule is off.
I bought a bidet attachment on Amazon a few years ago and it was actually pretty great. It was a pretty simple installation process and I believe the cost was $40 or less.
Edit: Found a link for you.
I'm so glad to read this as I have had terrible diarrhea for the last 15 days after quitting CT. I was concerned that it was liver damage from kava I was taking to sooth PAWS anxiety. I think that the kava was making it worse, but the gut problems were probably mostly from the kratom withdrawal. Thanks for putting my mind at ease. I hope that your gut gets back to normal soon. If you have to have diarrhea, this is a lifesaver:
Not sure if there's a way you can gift him a gift certificate to a local gym for a day pass or spa that has a sauna? My dads side of the family was Finnish and whenever we'd go visit we'd always take saunas together as a family. Part of that tradition was reading the "Finnish sauna rules" which I think were half joking, half real. Anyway here's a sign that he could maybe hang in his bathroom? Not sure if it's framed, so could get it framed and shipped. Timing may be trickier though..
Okay and this is a really weird gift and a little personal, but again popular with my dad (man with the Finnish blood who's in his mid-60s) and pretty much my whole family has one now. An attachable bidet for an existing toilet. It could honestly make his quality of life a little better. Installation is pretty simple too.
Also you could get him an immersion blender. Easy way to purée soups, smoothies, etc. and they're generally only $30.
Then there's this that could play into his mad scientist side. Again another popular gift that my Dad was into.
Hope this helps and you all have a great Christmas. So nice to hear that you're taking care of your father and keep in touch with him. I'm sure it means a lot to him.
This, right here - - $40, fits on any toilet, and will completely revolutionize that part of your life spent pooping.
The answer is so simple, bidet attachment for toilet
The best $35 you can spend. Treat yo self!
There's a bunch more like that.
I've got a gerber shard, they're cheap as fuck but useful. Use it a lot in the office and is a handy bee opener/screw driver in a pinch.
I currently have a Gerber Shard and the re purposed the hemmed cuff from my ST-120x's.
The Shard is awesome because it's TSA approved and I'm a frequent flyer.
There's a great post in here about manly man gifts. A personalized hatchet looked really great.
All the guys on my list this year are getting yeti tumblers, booze, and dopp kits.
Last year i threw in a few of these shards: https://www.amazon.com/Gerber-Shard-Keychain-Tool-22-01769/dp/B002ZK45IQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1510330452&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=shard+tool&amp;dpID=41Vcqx2c-WL&amp;preST=_SX300_QL70_&amp;dpSrc=srch
Hope this helps!
I carry a gerber shard, the main reason/use is for tightening tripod plates, even if I have a leatherman with me, the shard is still easier and faster for plates.
I think another small 'add on' tool like that would interest me, something to augment the camera abilities of a multi tool.
A Gerber Shard for your keyring. Mine comes in super handy, and it's only a couple bucks.
Edit: Added link
A bunch of wool socks and a Gerber Shard!.
The shard seems a little strange, but right now I need something else to put on my keyring just to give it something more to grab onto when I pull it out of my pocket! The shard seems like a good solution. If I can get one use out of the little phillips and perhaps the pry bar it'll probably be worth it!
Go with the bidet, it's only $25 and a 5 minute install. When you're done using it, you should only be using TP to dry yourself off.
Flushable wipes aren't actually flushable and end up causing problems for everyone.
Well jump in, buddy, may the toilet be your oyster: http://www.amazon.com/Astor-Non-Electric-Mechanical-Toilet-Attachment/dp/B003TPGPUW/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1406316166&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=bidet
Im going to change your life....get this. And never ever ever deal with itchy ass, dingleberries, etc., ever again.
This one is fairly cheap.
Astor Bidet Fresh Water Spray Non-Electric Mechanical Bidet Toilet Seat Attachment CB-1000 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003TPGPUW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_SFidAbZVPDWG4
Inexpensive version: Astor Bidet
Nope! This is the one I have at home and it works great.
Try one? Nah. Tell her to fully commit and get one at for her own thrown. $20 on Amazon. Worth it.
I'm just going to leave this here
I have this one. Works fine. Don't worry about the cold water, it's not a big a deal as you're thinking.
Don't think about it, buy it.
Just be straightforward and honest after finding a calm, neutral time to bring it up.
I'm a big fan of coming pre-loaded with solutions whenever I confront a problem (at least to get the ball rolling), so maybe you could buy some flushable wipes (like baby wipes but not for babies) ahead of time and set them on the back of the toilet/otherwise nearby. Love those things.
Or try out a bidet toilet seat attachment...wistful sigh
I pretty much went to the Amazon top-rated ones in the category; I got this one first and it's great, then when we built another bathroom next to my bedroom I bought one of these because I was curious about the warm water (it's nice, but it was a bit more difficult to install and takes time to warm up anyway). Both of them were a lot cheaper when I bought them 3-4 years ago; it looks like the top-rated one right now is this; I can't personally speak about it but the ratings are good. :)
Also I forgot to mention in my first post: toilet paper lasts basically forever. Using four to six squares just to dry off it takes me over three months to use a single roll.
I have hemorrhoids. These will save your damn life.
you can actually get a really cheap bidet attachment for your toilet on amazon, it is also very simple to install, here are the two types I've seen:
I feel for you dealing with that polar cold being in northern Illinois. Ouch.
They make a bathtub bladder for water I recommend for apartment living. Amazon link.
If you know a bad storm is coming this can be very useful.
Depending on your window situation a small solar charger can keep your phone powered up (or emergency radio, etc).
Food is always tricky. There's lots of good options to toss in the bottom of your closet like a Mountain House bucket. But be sure you can make hit water to mix in. So a few sterno cans can be helpful here.
For the daily med requirement, that's a tough one. I'd talk to your doctor about "What if...." scenarios. What if you take a cruise and the ship gets stranded and you run out of your meds. What if you're on vacation and your carry bag gets stolen.
See if he or she can give you an in-a-pinch over the counter plan. Or a secondary option, etc.
> apartment preppers - you need a WaterBob for your bathtub .... https://www.amazon.com/WaterBOB-Emergency-Drinking-Storage-Gallons/dp/B001AXLUX2
Not just apartment dwellers, anybody with a bath tub!
First: not food safe. Second: they are made of thinner plastic that would not hold that amount of water.
What you are looking for is a Water Bob. Costs about as much as a camping air mattress, but purpose-made to store water for emergencies. Ideally you would want a bathtub or shower that you could deploy it in.
If you are looking for something you can buy right now, because you are worried about the hurricane... maybe go to walmart and get one of those $10 kiddie pools that you could deploy and fill up in your shower?
This is kinda cool as well but I agree with the other redditor that things happen quick.
WaterBOB Emergency Drinking Water Storage (100 Gallons) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001AXLUX2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_yvWRzb39128V2
Just get this. It's a lifesaver and you get 100 gallons of clean water.
I would recommend a waterbob: https://www.amazon.com/WaterBOB-Emergency-Drinking-Storage-Gallons/dp/B001AXLUX2/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1504580873&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=waterbob
Check this out. Kind of interesting:
Here is a fantastic 20$ solution that gets you 100 gallons of clean water
Also, LENTILS LENILS LENTILS. They taste great, store more compactly, cook faster and are better for you. Throw some curry powder in there and you got yourself a tasty ass meal.
You can get 100 gallon bags that you fill in your bath tub if you need drinkable water.
You say you have water covered, but at less than $25, a bathtub water bladder is always nice to have on hand. Especially if you know the crisis is coming and you have time to fill it up.
There's a king 1000/6000 stone on amazon for $45 that would work well.
A 1000/6000 King stone could be an awesome option.
These are great for beginners and made in Japan.
Could also get him an angle guide to practice until he learns how to sharpen freehand.
What size is your whetstone and how did you modify it? I bought a King 1000/6000 stone, this is the one. If our stones are the same size (haha, just realized how that sounded), can you share your modified file?
This. For sharpening stones, buy a 1k and 6k stone, brand isn't a super big factor. King is apparently pretty good, but I use nawima or something. Edit: These stones.
What's a good basic setup for sharpening/maintaining kitchen knives? I've seen a couple recommendations for the king 1000/6000; are there other options I should be aware of?
Does this help?
I would say the go-to beginner stone that is recommended is the King 1k/6k.
Not the best stone in the world, but it's cheap and does a decent job. If you end up enjoying sharpening you will upgrade before too long, but as a utility this guy does fine.
Sure you can send them off to shun, but then you are without your knives for a few days. And realistically, after a month of use without sharpening, any knife is going to be less than spectacular.
Don't bother. 1000/6000 double sided is cheaper on amazon:
...and you won't have to wait a month or more to get it.
Thanks for the response!
I know cheaper knives can last a long time and it isn't necessary to spend so much (especially when you aren't working in a restaurant). It's something I really enjoy and have a strong interest in though! I was looking at wet-stones like this, but if that isn't the right style would love the feedback!
Thank you for the links as well!
EDIT: Formatting error
The only piece of equipment you need is a dual side wet stone with a medium grit on one side and high grit on the other. Stone sharpening has a bit of a learning curve, but it is an indispensable skill to acquire if you plan on keeping up with knives in general.
Edit: A bit down the line you'll want to invest in a flattening stone or something of the like to help keep your stone from dishing with use.
Stones jki or king 1000/6000 double. Like this. https://www.amazon.com/KING-KW65-Combination-Whetstone-Plastic/dp/B001DT1X9O/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?keywords=king+1000%2F6000+whetstone&amp;qid=1574593937&amp;sprefix=king+1000&amp;sr=8-3
Can’t really get a good knife for 50$. They really start at 80min. But he can improve his existing stock immensely and learn how to care for better knives before purchasing
Here ya go. My understanding is that for all intents and purposes, a stone is a stone. A better quality one may be more durable but won't necessarily hone a blade better than a cheap one.
I usually use Nano-Oil but on some knives (ones that will be used on food) I just use mineral oil.
Check this and this out, a good progression of grits for less than $100 and they are good stones, not absolute top of the line but certainly useable and serviceable.
I have a Suisin 10.5" High-Carbon Steel Gyotou and a 5.9" Petty from the same line. I use a very basic 2-sided King Stone, and it sharpens soooooooo easily. High carbon steel, to be fair, sharpens way easier than stainless. It also holds an edge pretty damn well for how easy it is to get them so sharp!
Shapton stones are awesome but expensive. Check out this brand King Two Sided Sharpening Stone with Base - #1000 & #6000 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001DT1X9O/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_PP19ub0HEMA24
It's on amazon.