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/u/Kiwibaconator has it right, but allow me to expand on that. For both gasoline and diesel fueled engines, peak combustion temp and exhaust temp is right around 15.5 to 17:1 (lambda =~1.1); anything richer or leaner than this range becomes cooler.

As you may know, diesels generally run at 25:1 with a peak of 18:1 to 16.5:1 only during acceleration and the turbo has not produced full boost. But during steady state lug curve, generally runs at the ~28:1 (rated) to ~22:1 (peak torque) and 50 to 65:1 at idle. This steady state lug curve afr is well below the peak temperature of 15.5 to 17:1. The leaner side of afr is much cooler than the rich side of afr.
Why is lean afr cool? It is because the more excess air is available, the more the heat of combustion is spreadout among the mass of air. Think of the air as a tiny heat sink, the more Air to Fuel ratio, the more heat sink mass to energy input.

Gasoline will typically run on the rich side, from 15.5 to 14.5 afr. With modern 3-way cats and O2 sensors, the engine is designed to oscillate back and forth between 14.5 and 15 for catalyst chemistry reasons. Gasoline combustion temps are lower because of the much lower compression and boost, but the exhaust temps are still higher. Running extra rich (<14:1) also helps prevent predetonation by slowing down combustion with excess fuel and partial combustion products. Slowing down combustion with extra fuel also combines with the heat sink idea, except now the extra fuel is the heat sink, and the energy release is limited by the amount of oxygen available; so in a sense the extra fuel is not combusted thoroughly, which limits its energy release, but gets heated up a lot which helps dilute the heat and reduce the peak temperature.

Source:
Heywood
ME - engine design 10yrs (diesel)

I'm sorry to disagree with the other forum suggestion, but I personally think that Oilburners.net has the best knowledge base to learn from. Hundreds of tech articles and many active members that know their stuff. Give it a look.

As for the engine, it will likely need a fuel system refresh with the amount of miles it has. I recommend doing the injection pump and injectors at the same time. With that also comes the return line system, with these things done, it will become a new animal. This cost will range around 1k-1250 bucks if you do it yourself. A little over 600 for the pump, minimum, for a quality rebuild, and about 450 for injectors. It is a pretty simple job, just do your research if you intend to do it yourself.

It's fairly accepted that an injection pump has a typical life of about 100k miles, though some are known to run longer.

Also, go find yourself stanadyne fuel additive. Either lubricity or performance is fine, but pick one and run it in EVERY tank. These guys are the makers of the pump, and this additive is designed to keep it lubricated and happy.
here is what I use. http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000M5QPSY?cache=3d44ea401507193c0b19f1da6f909236&pi=SY200_QL40&qid=1413839175&sr=8-3#ref=mp_s_a_1_3
Which reminds me, I need to get some more ordered. You can also find the smaller bottles at many parts and farm stores, but the bulk jug is a much better deal.

Got any good size channel locks you can get on it?

I had to put a screwdriver in the side and eventually went all the way through one time then turned. (This was on my ‘99.)

I bought this one not long after.

TEKTON 5866 12-Inch Oil Filter Pliers https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000NPR33O/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_BJtMAb2G01VJ8

When you got a put one back on, just do it snug with anti-seize. Pretty hand tight is good. The heat will expand it and cause it to seize up.

Well, decided to go with a Powermax.

link

Thank you guys for ALL the help. I'm hoping I'll be happy with the purchase!

Thanks guys!

I'm considering getting this inline filter (http://www.amazon.com/Moeller-Universal-Inline-Glass-Filter/dp/B000MT94OM/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top) since it looks like i'll be able to connect it to the fittings that go into the stock housing.

The one thing I'm wondering is what's the best way to get the truck going again once I've plumbed this filter inline? I can't see how I won't have a air gap in there, since it's mounted horizontally.

Well that is a relief to hear. The truck was used as a farm truck previously, and the lower 3/4 of the engine bay is coated in mud. I have attempted to clean all the connections but it seems the passenger side battery has re-corroded on the positive terminal. Although it seems to drain the battery, it doesn't feel to be cranking (after charging) as fast as when i bought it . I will buy some permatex battery cleaner tomorrow and report back.

I mounted the one on my 7.3 in the drivers side of the bumper using one of these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000NI38MG/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I mixed and matched my words there a bit, I'm fully aware that most of the semi plug-in's are below the drivers door or just to the front of them. Seems like semantics to me at this point as the rest of my thoughts were pretty coherent. Thanks for the correction though.

I had this problem on my 6.0. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gtnvFF1zg04

less than $100 and it was good to go. No reprogramming or anything, as the main control module is still good. The powersupply on the FICM dies after a while. Easy swap out.
https://www.amazon.com/Dorman-904-229-Injection-Control-Module/dp/B008720YYA/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1474049158&sr=8-1&keywords=doorman+ficm


Video of a swap - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TVUsBgOnp2Y

On my personal vehicle i clean them with soap and water. Then i use either a powerball or a Cotton buffing pad with Mothers mag polish. Take your time and it will look amazing.

The whole recall kit is available on Amazon. If the fuse blows, you're supposed to replace that whole jumper harness rather than just put a new fuse in.
https://www.amazon.com/Motorcraft-SW6350-Brake-Repair-Kit/dp/B000IYLZDO

http://www.amazon.com/Mariner-Universal-Plug-Holder-Black/dp/B000KOOY1M

It's just a holder. You clamp in whatever plug you want. I used an 18" triple tap from harbor freight.

Keep in mind that the regular combustion leak test fluid for gasoline vehicles doesn't work for diesels. You will have to get something like this to check it.

You need this. It sits on your IP timing gear cover. I had to replace mine last year.

The IDI's have really really high compression, much more than DI diesels and when they fire the cylinder walls throb. This is especially the case with the thinner walled 7.3L IDI, the 6.9L has less issue with it.

What happens is the coolant gets kicked away from the walls of the coolant passages. The engineering word for that is cavitation, it means that there a little bubbles, liquid free zones in the coolant passages. Shake a capped water bottle and you'll see what I mean.

Over time, because of exposure to air they can rust and form a pin hole leak from the coolant passage into the cylinder, at which point the engine block is ruined.

Cavitation especially happens if you have a weak coolant to water mixture, a failed or improper (too low) pressure rad cap, and if the truck is used for lots of little trips and not allowed to get up to operating temperature.

International's solution to this was to add a phosphate coating to the coolant. A "Supplemental Coolant Additive." It coats everything, and stops the rust.

Problem is it eventually flakes off, and the little particles can kill your water pump bearings.

IH changed the water pump for one that has a filter built into it, while Ford just recomened getting the coolant changed at regular intervals and to add SCA when needed.

Myself, and a lot of other IDI owners don't care for this arrangement so the coolant bypass filter is a pretty popular mod. Just goes in parallel with the heater core, and the filters come pre charged with the SCA. Extends the change intervals indefinitely.

filter

plumbing

Mine is a little more complicated than it needs to be. I put a valve that lets me run 100% heater flow through the filter for extra cleaning before I swap it out.

A lot of the kits offered by diesel shops are way over priced, Wix makes the filter head I used filter head for 35$.

It's about the best mod you can do to an IDI.


edit: one last thing, I think, but am not 100% sure than you can also solve this by switching to a waterless polypropylene glycol coolant. Note this is not the same as modern OEM coolants. They're the industrial ones the ones that are billed as being much less toxic. They also cost a fair bit more per gallon.

> Research that i've done has shown that synthetics hold up better and longer, no doubt about that. Better cold starting, longer intervals, etc.

Ah, so you just felt like asking a stupid question just to ask a stupid question. Who is the troll now?

> It cannot be tested, no two engines will last exactly the same.

You've never heard of a "laboratory" or "test cell"? That video is a great example, Kia uses synthetic oil as factory fill.

> Now, I agree that there are certain applications where synthetics are superior

It is superior in all applications, even 2-strokes and mono-grade applications. The only possible exception would be in a shitbox that burns/leaks an excessive amount of oil.

> I'd say the main thing is keep up with your oil change intervals, depending on the oil you run.

Do you have any sources that show prolonged engine life from using conventional oil over synthetic? I have never found one.

> but someone who does not run synthetics is a dumbass

Correct(ed)

O fuck that

https://www.amazon.com/Genuine-Ford-3C3Z-9F838-EA-Injection-Pressure/dp/B000NS7GCO

Bring a can of starting fluid. Powerstrokes hate the cold, even with fully functional glowplugs. If(when) you end up using it, remove the air filter cover and only give the engine a little sniff so the glowplugs don't cause a backfire.

Try to park near an outlet and plug in the block heater every night. Consider getting a magnetic pan heater and putting it on the bottom of your fuel tank.

Just a note: you can now replace just the amplifier board inside the FICM. Dorman 904-229 is available from Amazon for $110. It takes about 15 minutes with torx drivers to swap out.

1. Remove small cover plate on back of FICM.
   
2. Remove 4 power transfer screws under that cover.
   
3. Remove screws on the front side of the FICM.
   
4. Remove the front cover of the FICM
   
5. Remove the two black shock pads
   
6. Dig the glue out from inside the screws holding the amplifier board in.
   
7. Remove screws holding in amplifier board.
   
8. Install new amplifier board.
   
9. Assembly is reverse of disassembly.