Best hardware products according to redditors
We found 6,289 Reddit comments discussing the best hardware products. We ranked the 3,130 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
1. Addalock - (1 Piece ) The Original Portable Door Lock, Travel Lock, AirBNB Lock, School Lockdown Lock
The Addalock Original Portable Door Lock installs in seconds without any tools required.The Addalock Original Portable Door Lock gives you additional safety, security and privacy.Use it at home or take it with you when you travel, apartment living, hotel, students, and school lock down.Great if you ...
2. Defender Security Satin Nickel U 10827 Door Reinforcement Lock – Add Extra, High Security to your Home and Prevent Unauthorized Entry – 3” Stop, Aluminum Construction Finish
KEEP YOUR HOME SAFE – Designed to withstand 800 lbs. of force, this U 10827 satin nickel finish door reinforcement lock helps to prevent doors from being kicked in, increasing your home security and keeping you and your family safe!EASY INSTALLATION – The included 3” hardened screws make insta...
3. BQLZR Stainless Steel Kitchen Adjustable Feet Round 2" Dia Furniture Leg Pack of 4
Accessories for DIY furniture, cabinets, shelvesHandy toolNote: 4 legs can bear up to 100 kg, the longer the table legs, the more unstable the force. Adjustable part is black plastic base, it can be rotated, maximum adjustable height is about 15mm.
4. Door Armor MAX – Complete Door Reinforcement Set For Jamb, Frame, Strike Plate — DIY Home Door Security – Satin Nickel
THE ULTIMATE DOOR REINFORCER: Door Armor MAX is a 3-piece door reinforcement kit that makes even an ordinary door into a barrier that is kick proof and can’t be breached even using battering rams and other tools.DIY HOME SECURITY FOR EVERYONE: You don’t need to rely on a home security alarm comp...
5. Master Lock Street Cuff Locks, 9-Hardened Steel Links, 22 in. Long, 8290DPS
LOCK APPLICATION: For indoor and outdoor use; Cuff locks are best used for motorcycles, mopeds, street bikes and scootersEASE OF USE: Compact and lightweight cuffs easily fit in cargo areas and can be attached to fence posts and parking meters; Push-button keyless locking adds convenienceMAXIMUM SEC...
6. EZ-Load Toilet Paper Holder
Spring hinges on both sides makes loading toilet paper a snapDurable plastic construction ensures long product lifeHardware and installation instructions includedDesigned to install in any washroomMeasures approx 6½"W X 3¼"H X 3 3/4"D
7. Command 17204-12ES 07248000796 CMND PIC HANG STRIP VP, 12 Pairs, White, Picture
INCLUDES 12 Pairs of Medium, White Command Picture Hanging Strips (24 Strips total); 4 Pairs hold 12 lbs. Maximum frame size of 18 inches x 24 inchesDAMAGE FREE DECORATING Say goodbye to holes, marks, or sticky residue on your walls; Command Picture Hanging Strips by 3M are easy to use and help ke...
8. Prime-Line E 2402 Re-Keying Kit – Re-Key a Lock Kit with Pre-Cut Keys for Rekeying all your Locks to One Key, For Schlage Brand Locks, Type “C” 5-Pin Style Locks
REKEY YOUR LOCKS – Prime-Line E 2402 re-keying kit allows you to rekey all your locks to one, pre-cut key. Note: This kit is not designed to re-key locks to any other existing key, but rather only to the pre-cut keys included with each kit.INCLUDES – Re-Key a Lock Kit includes 3 pre-cut keys, pi...
9. Kwikset Interior Door Emergency Key Pack of 5
For use in Kwikset-brand interior/privacy locksets1 set includes 5 keysConvienently stores above door for ease of use
10. Command Replacement Strips, Re-Hang Indoor Hooks, White, 6-Strips (17023P-ES)
INCLUDES - 6 Indoor Large Replacement StripsRE-HANG HOOKS – Reorganize when inspiration strikes! Command Large Refill Strips make it easy to hang and rehang your Command indoor hooks, damage-freeORGANIZE DAMAGE-FREE - Say goodbye to holes, marks, or sticky residue on your walls, doors, cabinets, o...
11. VOVOV Furniture Cabinet Metal Legs Adjustable Stainless Steel Kitchen Feet Round Black and Silver 50 x 50mm Pack of 4 + 16x Screw
Unique design of adjustable height.Accessories for DIY furniture, cabinets, shelves ect.Size: 50x50mm (DiaxH);Black Steel Pads Width:60X60Mm (2.35X2.35Inch);Height:50mm/1.96InchMade of Stainless Steel durable.Easy Install, Adjustable Height. Including 16 screw
12. Command 17206-12ES 3M Large Photo Hangers No Tools or Holes, Strong and Versatile, Value Pack, 12 Picture Strips
INCLUDES- 12 Pairs of Large, White Command Picture Hanging Strips (24 Strips total); 4 Pairs hold 16 lbs. Maximum frame size of 24 inches x 36 inchesDAMAGE-FREE DECORATING- Say goodbye to holes, marks, or sticky residue on your walls; Command Picture Hanging Strips by 3M are easy to use and help kee...
13. TOGGLER SNAPTOGGLE Drywall Anchor with included bolts for 1/4-20 Fastener size; holds 265 pounds each in 1/2-in drywall each by TOGGLER (4 Pack)
Simple to use and easy to install molly anchor kit.Twice as strong as a regular toggle bolt - solid metal channelStraps act as installation tool, help install metal channel behind the wallKit includes 4pc SNAPTOGGLE 1/4-20 toggle bolts (no bolts)
14. Koch 5011635 Twisted Polypropylene Rope, 1/2 by 50 Feet, Brown
General uses include swimming pool markers, camping and marine applicationsPolypropylene rope has a low stretch and good knot retentionResistant to oils, rot, mildew and most chemicalsColor is Brown and trade size is 1/2 by 50 feetThe safe work load limit for this item is 420 lbs.
15. Bondic LED UV Liquid Plastic Welding Starter Kit
INCREDIBLE ADHESIVE - When fully cured, Bondic is 100% waterproof, heat-resistant, and non toxic. Dries clear and can be sanded or painted after it hardens to customize any projectQUICK REPAIRS AND EASY TO OPERATE: The incorporated LED UV light has an easy press button and when the liquid is exposed...
16. Calslock Portable Door Lock for Travel, Hotel, Motel, Lock, AirBNB Lock Door Barricade Lock, Apartment Security Device for Personal Security
ADDED PROTECTION – Provides an additional layer of security, and peace of mind from unwanted entrySMALL AND PORTABLE – This lock takes up less room than two pens and is easily added to any doorUSE ON DOORS WITHOUT A LOCK - resists forced entry, even if the door does not have a lock!PLEASE READ -...
17. Monkey Hooks Picture Hangers Home and Office Pack, Gorilla Hook, Drywall Hooks for Hanging Pictures, Wall Hooks, Picture Hangers, Picture Hanging Kit, 30 Pc Set
MONKEY HOOK PICTURE HANGER VARIETY PACK: 3 Varieties Included: 10 Original Monkey Hook, 10 Gorilla Grade (made of thicker steel so it holds up to 40% more weight than Original) and 10 Flush mount (hanging small items that MUST mount FLUSH to the wall.)The Amazing Monkey Hook one of the most innovati...
18. Command Picture & Frame Hanging Strips, Large (24 Pair)
Hang pictures with no nails, Easy removalLarge strips hold most 24 x 36 framesProduct Dimensions:5 x 4 x 1 inchesOne click tells you they are locked in and holding tightHolds strong, yet removes cleanly
19. Ben & Jerry's Euphori-Lock Ice Cream Pint Combination Lock Protector
20. Master Lock 207D Magnetic Key Holder, 1 Pack, Black
Magnetic key holder is designed to hide a key outside or inside and will comfortably store 1-2 keysMagnetic key box securely attaches to any steel surface; not intended for use on carsMagnetic key holder is constructed of a durable plastic that features a sliding cover with built-in stop to prevent ...
It is a travelers portable door lock.
You might want to invest in one of these!
Addalock - (1 Piece) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00186URTY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_12TKBbV17C946
Even if someone manages to pick your lock, this will stop them from actually being able to open your door - only if someone is home though, it can't be used if no one is inside to place it. I know of at least one story where it prevented a woman's rape.
chain locks are useless, get something like this or the ones like they use in hotels that have the u bar and the nob (no idea what they are called) and make sure it is amputee dwarf bondage porn i mean if you are going to go for it go for broke man...
Can also get it here on Amazon
A portable door lock might be a good alternative/backup method.
Desk: Ikea Karlby Countertop https://www.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/70335212/#/50335208
Charging Station: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077CZL5FB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Wallpaper from Wallpaper Engine: https://steamcommunity.com/sharedfiles/filedetails/?id=1172827797
Dual Monitor Stand: https://www.amazon.com/VIVO-Monitor-Adjustable-Screens-STAND-V002/dp/B009S750LA/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=vivo+dual+monitor+stand&qid=1563902621&s=gateway&sr=8-3
Furniture Stands (silvers bars between the desk and the drawers): https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KQH8HMU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Extended Mouse Pad: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QM9KL5M/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Software for desktop information/date/time: Rainmeter using NXT-OS https://www.rainmeter.net/ https://nxtos.com/
This is an excellent bike lock.
Here's a seriously skilled locksmith's review of it.
An app is nice but you should always assume cops are around every corner and behind every bush.
I don't know how well it would work but I recommend something like this. Just put that shit under the car and don't worry about it. Though, I'll admit, I recommend it in theory. I've never used one myself, so I don't know if something like that is all that great.
Defense in Depth:
Perimeter hardening is often the most effective use of funds when starting out with home defense. By making it harder to get in, you will deter some criminals and give yourself additional warning time for those who continue their attempt to enter.
The most common point of forced entry is through an exterior door. Residential doors are often only held in by a dead bolt and strike plate that has 1/2 inch screws that only sinks into the soft wood of the door's trim. It's trivial for most people to kick in this door and fracture the wood trim and allow the door to swing open. To combat this, get a Door Jamb Reinforcement kit (other kits available at hardware stores, more expensive kits available that provide more protection). This kit consists of a metal plate and 3 inch screws that will distribute the force and sink into the strong wooden studs beyond your door frame, making it much stronger. Get some 3 inch screws to replace your hinge screws, which typically have the same 1/2 inch screws holding it to your door frame.
Other devices are available to help prevent forced entry while you are home. These should be used in addition to a deadbolt and door jamb reinforcement hardware:
If you are concerned about lock attacks (bumping, picking), consider a high end deadbolt from a manufacturer like Abloy or Medeco from Security Snobs. These locks do not have the same vulnerabilities as typical pin and tumbler keyways found in most residential deadbolts. In addition, the key blanks are restricted, which means that they can't easily duplicate your key at a shop or create one from a blank.
The second most common point of entry is through a first story window. Window security film can be installed by a professional or by the homeowner to increase the amount of time it takes to break through a window.
If you have a side or back yard gate, remember to lock it.
Trim down any large bushes or shrubs that conceal windows or entries. Burglars could use these areas to hide while they break in or wait for you to leave. These should be no higher than knee or waist level. If you want to have large bushes, consider one with thorns that would make it difficult to hide near.
If you have the budget, get a monitored alarm. Either professionally installed (ADT, etc.) or self installed (SimpliSafe, Scout, Abode, etc.)
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Something like this might be helpful to you, unless you think it'll cause her to escalate. Ripping the door open like that is sexually abusive, though. You have a right to your privacy.
I say invest in 2 things: a door wedge and an AddALock device.
If your door has a good latch bolt on it, you don't have to invest in a whole lock. I've discovered an invention called an AddaLock that just fits right in the little slither between the door and door frame. When it's locked in place, it keeps the door from ever opening, regardless of how hard you try to open it. Of course, it's only as strong as the door's wood.
Amazon link - it's small and easy to install, and it really works.
EDIT: You cannot lock a door from the outside with the AddALock. It only works from the inside. Keep that in mind.
Anywhere we can get this? Hand-Be is the company? Di they have a better looking products with this mechanism?
Update: Found it in 3 seconds https://www.amazon.com/EZ-CECOMINOD021717-EZ-Load-Toilet-Holder/dp/B001ONT90Y
I'd put a chain up, and use it whenever you are home. If you can't do that (screw holes, etc.) there are security door stoppers or this device that stops maintenance people, even if they have a key.
This won't do fucking shit.
Source: I had a teenager kick my door open a couple years ago. Here is what is left of my 2X6 door jamb after the kick. Pulled the 4" screws clean out and cracked the stud.
If you want some real protection against someone kicking open your door you need one of these or these
Addalock - (1 Piece ) Portable Door Lock, Travel Lock, AirBNB Lock, School Lockdown Lock https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00186URTY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Pvo3Cb33744FX
Just got this from Amazon the other day. I love it. Take it with you anywhere. Works great. I leave my home at 1am and my kids and wife stay at home alone and this makes her feel much much more secure.
Bend one so it fits on a keyring.
A few different options on amazon, all around $10-$13.
I impulse bought one....
I just take the ignition key off and leave all the others in the car so no jangle. If that's not an option, I have a friend who uses a magnetic key box that you can attach to the undercarriage of your car.
Monitor: Dell AW3418DW
Keyboard: Vortex Race 3
Mouse: Logitech G703
Karlby + Alex drawers combination
Lamp from Amazon
Furniture legs to raise up height of the desk
SKADIS Utility board from IKEA
NZXT H200, i7-8700k, X52 Kraken, 18GB 3200Mhz Trident Z RGB Ram, Evga 2080Ti, 650W PSU
Pictures of PC here
Logitech z33 2.1 Speakers
In the meantime, when you are home, invest in one of those door stops so that he can't enter the apartment. You aren't changing the locks, but you're preventing entry. Something like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00186URTY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_dp_T2_nq2qzbHH6H744
You absolutely lock your door every single time and just flat out tell her "I'm locking my door. This is not negotiable."
In addition to locking your door, get a few other things:
random example: https://www.amazon.com/Doberman-Security-Portable-Alarm-alarms/dp/B000KDUCU0
It's a lock for a regular door on a house. The bent part at the end goes in the hole on the jamb and you squeeze and slide the other part up to the door.
Thats why its useful to lock your door from the inside. You can use addition locks like this or just a chair wedged under the handle.
It takes about 30 seconds to pick the lock on even high end dead bolt locks. Consumer grade door security is garbage.
Here is someone using two bobby pins in less than a minute.
You can make bump keys, electric lock picks, manual picks, etc, etc. The locks on your door mean nothing to someone who understands how basic they are.
If you suspect someone is entering your house like this you can set traps to detect them. Place some small pieces of dust or "trash" like paper in windowsills where if someone came in and out they would disrupt it. Remember or write down the exact positions of these items. Similarly, when you leave your house reach inside the door and place a small piece of trash right behind the door so if its opened the trash will be blown or otherwise moved from the position you remember placing it in. Carefully open the door and check your trap when getting home. They might see the trap but it doesn't matter, they already triggered it and you will know no matter what that someone was there.
>I keep a metal baseball bat by my bed now and I will use it.
Make sure you know how to swing it well. If I saw someone with a bat it wouldn't really make me hesitate and in fact would just make me think they were focusing too much on the bat as a useful weapon when its really not, especially inside a house where you'll almost always not have room to generate power.
I would suggest a Ruger .380 LCP loaded with high quality ammo kept in a fingerprint locked safe. Total cost is under $500.
Make sure you bolt the safe down so your children don't get any ideas later on in life. Also, make sure you teach them gun safety before they're teenagers. The four rules. Treat all guns as if loaded. Never point a gun at something you wouldn't accept being destroyed. Know your target and what is beyond it. Finger off the trigger/out of the trigger gurd at all times until you want to shoot.
Portable door lock.
For extra security at a hotel or whatever.
Bad solution to a solved problem.
We have two of these in our house for home defense, one for a downstairs office and one for the bedroom, and might get more. It's 1/3 of the price, takes <1 second to set, and can withstand 800lbs of force (not including the extra strength from the doorknob).
I honestly recommend anyone get one. We have firearms to defend ourselves, but, it saves a lot of moral and legal problems to just stop them from getting to us in the first place while we wait for the cops.
Here you go!
$4.64. Keep them tucked in the top of the door frame. Seems easier and safer than reversing a door lock!
Every one I've lived in. They're "privacy locks"; they're not for security, they're just to prevent someone from wandering in. They can be unlocked with either a straight pin
or a small tool that resembles a flat screwdriver
(and, in fact, you can use a small screwdriver to unlock those).
This will keep him out without damaging the door: Addalock
This one causes an alarm to go off (which I like because it may train him): Anndason Door Stop Security Alarm with 120 DB Siren
Here's your Halloween costume:
You can also add these for extra protection:
Prime-Line Door Reinforcement Lock
I have these on all of my exterior doors, along with 3" screws...it'll make kicking any of them in extremely hard, if not impossible.
Came to recommend this, specifically this kind of lock which doesn’t require special install so is perfect for an apartment. Addalock - (1 Piece ) Portable Door Lock It doesn’t look like much but will keep your door locked even if someone has a key.
Could you use one of these portable locks? https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00186URTY/
Looks like the sales of these are going to go way up!
Just use a toggle anchor, will take 5 minutes and hold better than some patch of plaster with another screw.
Snap toggles http://www.amazon.com/Toggler-Snaptoggle-Toggle-Drywall-Molly/dp/B005C4YE4M
Have they been breaking in one particular way? If so, maybe we could help prepare for their preferred way.
I always highly recommend hardening your home. It helps that you are in the second floor, that means they are less likely to target your windows (unless there is access to your windows). So, let's focus on the door. Doors (and their frames) are often quite vulnerable.
If your door doesn't have a deadbolt, get one and use it! A deadbolt is much, much stronger than the lock on the knob, but it doesn't do anything for you if you don't lock the deadbolt. It is slightly less convenient because you have to use a key to lock it when you leave, but the extra security far outweighs the slight inconvenience. Use your deadbolt.
You may be limited in what the landlord allows you to do, but I'd suggest you do some version of the following to reinforce the door. You can get a door reinforcement kit like this or this (I've sometimes seen the prime-line kit for sale at HD or Lowes for more like $25). These will reinforce the weak door frame and make it much harder to kick in the door. If that is too big of a change, maybe you'd be allowed to replace the strike plate with one like this. That would be a good step up from a standard strike plate. If you aren't allowed to do any of those, at a minimum you should replace the short screws that your strike plate and hinges likely have now, with longer screws (3-4 inch screws are good). The longer screws will anchor the strike plate not only to the weak door frame, but to the strong 2x4 structure behind the frame too. Also a few of those long screws on the hinge side of the door; stock hinge screws are often too short for good security too.
Reinforcing the door will make it much harder to kick in, so they will probably move on to a softer target. It would also take longer and make more noise, giving you more time to call for help, arm yourself, or escape.
If their preferred method is not to kick in the door, but to attack the lock (using a bump key or lock picks), I'd suggest switching to a high security lock like a medeco or assa/abloy. If you can't afford that, then a lock that uses a non-standard key would at least help some. Kwikset KW1 and Schlage SC1 are the most common keys, so those would be the most common bump keys carried by thieves. Getting a lock that doesn't use either of those would at least make them less likely to have the proper key handy.
What I wrote above can help keep people out; that is most important in my opinion. After that, some sort of alarm may make an intruder want to leave more quickly, or also give you extra warning.
Edit: I just wanted to add that many companies use the KW1 and SC1 keys, not just kwikset and schlage. So if you want a less common key, you have to do your due diligence to know what key it uses. For example, I think Baldwin uses either a KW1 or SC1; also, i think Defiant uses a KW1. And definitely avoid anything that uses Kwikset's "Smart Key". The Smart Key locks are just weak junk.
If you can't leave sooner than 4 months, I suggest looking into renting a storage locker for you things so they can't trash your possessions when you are not there. (As far as they're concerned, the things were sold because you needed cash or whatever.)
If you cannot leave sooner, for your own personal safety, consider getting a travel door lock. You can keep it with you when you're not home, and have a way to secure your door when you're resting. A portable door alarm might also help you to rest more easily.
If they don't know you have one of those door locks, anyone trying to pick the doorknob may assume they've done something incorrectly.
In no particular order, other than as they came to my mind:
Note that the term "Lighthouse" and "Base Station" are used interchangeably. I don't know which is technically more correct. I believe "Lighthouse" is the term given to the units by Valve, where as "Base Station" is the term used by HTC to describe the actual units provided - but this may be incorrect. I call them Lighthouses, but the Vive manual calls them Base Stations - these are the same things.
My Vive did not come with a manual, though I preordered and they may be shipping them with manuals now - I had a quick start guide, but no manual - you can find the manual here where much more information about proper setup and usage can be found.
Also - Welcome to the club :). Assuming your PC passes the SteamVR Performance Test, you will be very happy with VR :) There is nothing quite like being in true roomscale VR - it is amazingly fun.
Edit: Also, I'll take this chance to plug my (currently free) VR utility application - stop reading now if you hate self plugs :). My app - OpenVRDesktopDisplayPortal allows you to clone a Desktop Window into a cross game VR Overlay. This Overlay can be placed into the world, attached to screen like a HUD, or attached to one of the controllers. Personally, even while playing games I like to leave Netflix on and game while I watch a movie or TV show - for most VR games there's just too much action going on though - but for some games, like Elite Dangerous or Euro Truck Sim, you have a lot of down time which can get quite boring. OpenVRDesktopDisplayPortal (OVRDDP for short) can be used to bring a desktop window, like a browser window, right into VR! You can read the Instructions here, or download it from this page. The current public version can only capture a 360p up to about 480p video at 24FPS or more, which is required for the video to look smooth - though my local source can clone my full monitor, 2560x1440, at 150FPS+ :). I'm in talks with Valve to get this on the Steam Store, but right now you can just resize your content to 360p and consider it a free demo :).
There are quite a few people using OVRDDP to clone videos right into VR, there are also a few people cloning security cameras (watching the door for pizza deliveries :P) or baby monitors right into VR. You can also use it to clone browser windows into VR, which can be handy for games like Elite Dangerous where you can look up item prices online, or pretty much anything else you want.
For content like Netflix or Hulu, you can full screen the video, target it with OVRDDP, then lock the aspect and resize the video to 360p - Even though it is supposed to be full screen, it can be resized to 360p - this lets you clone just the video instead of the full browser window. I gave the exact steps in this comment here.
There are a few programs that can't be captured with the current public release - for Chrome, you must disable Hardware Acceleration. Firefox seems to work fine. I also heard that MPC-HC cannot be cloned, but VLC works great :). For VLC, you can use the fullscreen trick to clone just the video, or use the cropping settings labelled 13 in this picture to clone just the area of the video you want. For more information, see the Compatibility Article, though it's a bit outdated right now.
Full HD support coming soon regardless of if I can post it on the steam store, but right now you can use the public release as a demo for what's to come.
These are a game changer especially if you’re a renter like me.
I figured you were rattling them off the walls with all them subs. :D
Theses work great,
Just make sure to avoid the studs.
This might help
My first recommendation will always be to get a gun an training, however if you're not comfortable with that (as you stated in another comment) then that's ok too. The worst thing you can do is buy a gun you're not going to use that can potentially be used against you. Regardless of what some other clueless users may state, the sound alone will NOT scare off an intruder
So, given that, it sounds in your situation like your only reasonable point of entry is the front door, so beef it up.
As another user stated you can get a better deadbolt and it doesn't have to break the bank. Just do your homework, get a grade I lock, and stay away from your cheaper locks (pretty much anything made by kwikset).
In addition, the door reinforcement kit is a good option as most break-ins tend to simply be kicking the door in. What actually happens in this situation is that the force of the kick is actually driving your metal deadbolt through the wooden frame of the door, splintering the frame. A reinforcement kit and longer screws (a good 3" wood screw ought to do it) will help mitigate this risk.
Hope this helps
Portable door lock, too.
Short answer: You need to move, this could escalate to violence including a murder. If taking a job in another state can keep everyone in your household alive then it is an action you need to seriously consider.
If for whatever reason you decide to stay then read on.
If you are the target then typical criminal deterrence will not be effective.
Cameras are good for collecting evidence for police, without evidence police won't do anything. Their job is to arrest criminals after they have committed a crime not protect you from a future crime.
You need to ensure the entries to your house are hardened, there are many resources online on how to harden your doors and windows. Here is a simple guide from the sidebar that has some good ideas: https://www.artofmanliness.com/2015/04/22/complete-guide-to-home-security/ . I personally have a stronger strike plate with 3" screws and a door jam on my external doors.
None of this protects you from someone burning your house down while you are inside. You need good fire detection and quality fire extinguishers as well as methods to escape through windows on upper floors is necessary. Create an escape plan for multiple scenarios and ensure your family does a regular walkthrough and everyone knows it by heart. Beware that the fire may be used to lure you outside to attack you with violence when you are no longer protected by the walls of your home. This is a fairly common carjacking technique where the criminals cause a small fender bender and when the person gets out of the car they steal it with violence or the threat of violence. I briefly cover personal protection below but you must be aware of that tactic so you can be prepared if that is the scenario you find yourself in
If you are the target then you need to take your personal protection and the protection of your family very seriously. Don't take this responsibility alone, your gf and her kids need to up their awareness. If something seems out of place do not ignore it, mitigate your risk by removing yourself/family from the danger that could surround that abnormality.
You also need a means to protect yourself if this harasser gets violent with you or your family. I'm a firearms person and live in Nevada where I can fairly easily obtain a concealed firearms permit. Where you live you may not be able to legally carry outside your home. A firearm and training are the best force multipliers civilians can use to defend themselves against unknown threats (we don't what this person is capable of, what tools he will use, or if he is acting alone). Personally, I believe an 5.56mm AR-15 rifle is the best home defense tool and a 9mm handgun is the best on person defense tool. You mentioned your girlfriend has 2 kids, regardless of age you must be 100% committed to ensuring any firearms you bring into a house with kids is behind a lock any time it is not on your person. In your situation I would recommend you have a handgun on your hip at all times you are awake. If you need more help with fireams advice/tactics/resources I can help you.
If firearms are not right choice for you (they aren't if you can't be 100% committed to ensuring it is impossible for the kids to get access) there are other less effective tools. I prefer pepper spray and carry it in addition to a firearm. Get some small canisters for on body carry and some of these larger canisters for in the home. Understand that when you deploy the spray everyone will be impacted and it will only buy some time to escape. I do not recommend stun guns as they are inconsistent and many people recover fairly quickly when they are done riding the lightning. Knives are effective at creating fatal wounds but not effective at stopping threats. A wounded attacker can still inflict damage for minutes after receiving a fatal stab wound. So I would not recommend those unless you have some knife defense proficiency already. Striking tools like batons and baseball bats can be effective medium range tools but can also be used against you if you are disarmed and rarely incapacitate in a single swing. These tools are only to ensure you and your household survive in the event you have to fight for your life, awareness and avoiding the fight is your most effective tool and only if your awareness fails should you have to resort to your fighting tools.
Hopefully your cameras can catch this individual doing something significant enough that the police will get involved and remove them from the general public. You can't depend on that though and have to have a layered approach to ensuring the safety of yourself and everyone in your household. Good luck!
edit: my phone bugged and I had to finish this from my computer, sorry for the originally cut off response.
Maybe off topic but since we are speaking on home security it kinda fits. I was a residential door installer for years. I have replaced countless doors I to people's homes. You would not believe how many doors I've seen installed with 1 inch screws. Check and replace these screws with 3 inch screws. They are usually long enough to hit the framing of the house and add strength. Also many doors do not have deadbolts so the cheapest and easiest solution to this I have found is an amazon product. Very easy to Install with a drill and feels very sturdy. It can only be locked from the inside how ever so best use is for a door in a garage or back door.
Defender Security Satin Nickel U 10827 Door Reinforcement Lock - Add Extra, High Security to your Home and Prevent Unauthorized Entry - 3" Stop, Aluminum Construction Finish, 3" https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D2K367Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_PMTUDbGP65SPB
This is much better, pocket sized. https://www.amazon.com/Calslock-Portable-Door-Travel-Lock/dp/B00GMPFCNC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1504757134&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=travel+lock+door
Ikea sells similar ones, but it looks like the risers in OP's photo are these ones.
Do it yourself. It is MUCH cheaper.
I recommend this one if you want to replace the entire knob. (kwikset) It has the benefit of being able to re-key your locks in about 10 seconds, without disassembling the knob, if you decide to change your locks again in the future. Super easy. $20 per knob.
Alternatively, you could get something like this (re-keying kit). It's only $10, and you can re-key several locks. It's definitely a bit delicate though. Make sure to follow the instructions very precisely, or you'll end up with pins shooting everywhere from the springs.
Whichever method you choose, you should be done in about an hour. Do you like the idea of having a job that makes/saves $130 per hour?
The deadbolt itself is hardly a concern for somebody kicking in your door.
For front door security, you need a few things:
Assuming you have a solid core door and use at least 3"
nailsscrews (oops) to install everything (pre-drill pilot holes so you don't split your frame/jamb), that door will be straight up zombie apocalypse proof. Somebody would have to use explosives to get it open.
This is pretty much how I did my front door, so I've bought and installed these and can attest to their solid...ness. There are also a lot of youtube videos showing how well they work alone, let alone together.
That little thing has kept several people from just walking into my hotel room. Chain hotels double book fairly frequently, they also don't change the locks all that often. If you 'lose' a card they may charge you a small fee but it will still open that door. Mid-day rolls around you can assume whoever is in the room is off doing something and you can walk in and take their stuff.
you can reinforce a door jam pretty cheaply:
that would assume a solid door, not hollow core that could be kicked in
I'd also like to add "Door Armor" to the list. I like knowing that my home is at least a little more secure while I'm away.
Thanks! I just looked and I have some of the Velcro Command strips. These would be nice because you can move it from the wall to the TV so suit whatever you're playing better
Here's a portable door lock you could use for when "just walking in" is inappropriate.
Also, need to have that talk about "respecting ones need for some privacy" and how she wouldn't like it if you were to barge in on her while she's changing. It's pretty rough if you are so fed up as to consider doing the same to her to let her be on the receiving end 'to see how she likes being barged in on while nude'.
Again, man, blackout curtains. I have velcro anchors for hanging shit on my walls, and I sewed the other side onto the curtain so it sits flush with the window when attached. My room is pitch black in the middle of the day.
edit: these things https://www.amazon.com/Command-Picture-Frame-Hanging-Strips/dp/B00PLVLD86/
Why not try to practice self control and talk to them like an adult first, and reserve losing your shit if it continues after the talk?
It's going to be tough to ask children to be quiet in the middle of the afternoon. It may be best just to move out.
Here are a few options to keep the kids out of your room in the meantime:
I travel with a similar product, the Addalock. Same concept, but the two pieces are attached together so you can't lose one of them.
Tell anon he should get a ice cream lock
This is really weird and probably impossible. If you want to be able to lock it and leave, but it needs to be discreet so nobody on the outside knows it's there? I mean all they have to do is try and open it to know it's now locked. Isn't this then the problem, you want it to be unknown that it's locked? Just change the door knob, it's only a keyhole exposed. I suppose you could add a child lock plastic cover to cover the lock...You really need to explain your problem with making it obvious that a lock now exists for people to help.
Any device added to it will either be obvious as well, although there is this device that you can use to lock while you are in the room that would not be obvious from the outside, but if you need to leave and keep it locked then you would be out of luck.
Looks like a key for an interior privacy knob lock. I think a Quickset brand lock set. Try it on one of bathroom doors.
edit: the trim carpenter would leave them on top of the door casing over the door with the lock.
These are options as well.
Door Armor MAX – Complete Door Reinforcement Set in Satin Nickel — Door Security by Armor Concepts https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E9ZGWNQ/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_DycVAb8SY33RQ
As another reddit user mentioned, longer screws improve the lock's security.
UV Light Glue is perfect for fixing glass. I have used it on 2 bong bowls that I broke at the stem and a steamroller I split in two. One pen will last for a while and they are only 20$
Edit: My dad owned a window and glass repair shop, we used pens like this all the time to fix small chips in stained glass. It dries clear (it can be lumpy though if you use too much) and will not break from high heat.
You could get something like this: Calslock Portable Door & Travel Lock https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GMPFCNC/
Or Google "travel door lock." There's another removable block called a DoorJammer, and MasterLock makes something too. If nothing else I'd put a little alarm or bells or something on doors. And listen to your dogs :) We put a ladder in front of the door when we go to bed. It makes a lot of noise when it falls over and it's hard to move it from outside once it's fallen over, because you can't open the door all the way.
It'd be best to change locks but you should have another type of barricade or alert anyway in case someone defeats the lock or gets access to your keys.
Mousepad - https://www.pcgamingrace.com/products/glorious-3xl-extended-gaming-mouse-pad-24x48#
PC Specs - https://pcpartpicker.com/list/Pvp6tJ
The metal spacers - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KQH8HMU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
The spacers are screwed into the tops of the alex drawers with some small screws, and the desktop just sits on top and its heavy enough it doesnt move.
These, and they've worked out alright so far.
Here you go.
Since you can't screw anything into the desk, here's what I would do:
Grab some of these while they're on sale
Then grab some 3M Command Strips to hold up some sort of cable raceway like this (Although you can probably find something cheaper than this particular one at Lowes or Home Depot.)
Or you could just buy a few of these
Or a cable box like this. Personally, I'd go with the box and velcro strips, since your tower is so close to the outlet. Unless you plan to relocate it.
But most importantly for college dorm life: 3M command strips are your friend for almost everything.
A lot of water bottles would not have enough taper to prevent that from slipping. However you do make a good point. How about something non-permanent yet reliable AND not ugly like tape?
Maybe take a peek at this too. For travel security, I have been eyeing this and this.
Ugh. Definitely be careful then. Like seriously, I would suggest ordering those lock things off of Amazon ASAP. It's ballsy to go through someones wallet while they are sleeping right there, so obviously the person has no shame. Make sure you do not keep ANYTHING out that has passwords in it. No diaries. Sleep with your wallet in the bed with you. I would not say a word about it, just install the locks on stuff, and protect your stuff nonchalantly. Also I realize this sounds insane, but if you have credit cards, put a fraud alert on your account. Do not underestimate people. Does your part where your stuff is have a lock on it? you might even talk to the RA about switching rooms just to be safe. I know it'll flame your relationship with your roomies, but you can make new ones and that's some real serious Klepto stuff that will just add way more stress to your life than necessary. If you cannot switch rooms, figure out a way to lock your door. Also, from reading how the locks work in those doors, it looks like you can just open them with the credit card trick, which is REALLY not good. I would for sure figure out a way to lock the door while you are sleeping with one of those bar things that attaches to the door and the floor so that they can't do that and sneak in. It won't help while you are out, but if you lock everything down, they'll move on to your other roommates who presumably have not protected their stuff. Something like this might be good: https://www.amazon.com/Rishon-Enterprises-Inc-I9889-Addalock/dp/B00186URTY?ref_=fsclp_pl_dp_1and this thing while you are IN the room:
If you have a laptop, get something like this for when you aren't taking it with you. https://www.amazon.com/s?k=laptop+lock&ref=nb_sb_noss_2 It's good to have anyways for when you are using it on campus and need to get up and go to the bathroom or get a coffee.
Well, if it says you're not allowed to change locks, just add one /r/maliciouscompliance
It's a door lock
I’m an international student as well and living by myself with no friends/family gave me major anxiety about feeling safe in my first year at UCF. I have this door stopper . It’s cheap and portable. It’s given me back my peace of mind and I’m not worried as much anymore.
I’m sorry this happened to you, and I hope something like this can help you as a precaution and give you some amount of security.
Why are you not allowed to puncture the wall? This is considered normal wear and tear and is very easily patched over when you leave.
That being said, here is a good solution that will leave a needle sized hole in the wall that will not be noticeable unless someone is really looking for it. You can also cover the hole with toothpaste before you leave and it will disappear. Rated to 100lbs.
Monkey Hook Picture Hanger Home and Office Pack, 30 pc Set https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001KVMNPI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_pg4mDbBXS034M
As an aside, if you're somewhere between an entry-level and moderate handyman it's not too difficult to grab a lock repinning kit from Home Depot and just change the pins in the locks. They have kits for a few different brands. Amazon has the Schlage, Weiser, and Kwikset kits for a bit cheaper than HD.
It's what I'd do between tenants. Under $20 to repin up to six locks to use the keys included in the kit. The first lock I did took a good half-hour to get the hang of it, but after that it was under 10 minutes a lock.
I bought this from amazon and followed a YouTube video to rekey it myself.
I bought a new house and didn’t want to spend $200 bucks to get my locks rekeyed. Payed $20 bucks and spent 1.5 hours on 3 locks, resulted in 3 same keys and opened all 3 locks.
We have these for our door
We love em, they are super sturdy and the point of leverage on them paired with long screws makes them solid
Actual bullet-proof glass is expensive and probably has to be professionally installed. Even so, bullets will still go through exterior walls and drywall quite easily.
My first suggestion if you truly fear for your family's safety is to move. I know you said the property has been in the family for a very long time, but you should ask yourself it the property is worth a family member dying - if that's what you really think would happen if you stayed.
My second suggestion if you can't afford the stiff bill for the bulletproof glass - is to add some basic fortification to the home to prevent unauthorized entry. A door jamb reinforcement kit and some window security film will go a long way for preventing access to anyone trying to break in. A firearm (or a few) is a must if allowed in your jurisdiction. Just make sure everyone gets some safety training if they're not familiar with guns. Another thing to look into is a monitored alarm. Dogs are also great deterrents and alerts.
My point here is, it's much more effective use of your money fortifying and securing your home than it is to try to make it bulletproof. Unless you are very wealthy, that is going to break the bank. Go browsing around the subreddit and read some wiki articles to get more ideas on fortification and what other people have done.
For those that travel for a living... this is what I use. Apparently the door jammer has been known to slide on certain surfaces. The Addalock doesn’t! I love it.
>We will also be staying at Air BnBs, which is another concern of mine. Not only would they not have security or anything like a hotel, someone else definitely has keys. I think a door brace would be too bring to take with me, is there anything else I should look into? A door wedge, alarm, etc?
You might be looking for something like this.
My black and white cat opens doors too! We have a similar handle but it's lower down, he's a long cat so he actually stands up and pulls down on the handle with his paw. Its so bad we have to lock doors and bought interior door lock keys to keep him out of certain rooms, or to keep him from stealing the other cat's food.
Wow looks great! I would love to get to do that and learn how.
Just had a kid and I’ve gone into super dad mode trying to beef up the house security. I bought these door reinforcements and will replace my hinge screws with three inch screws. Do you think that would have helped with preventing or delaying a kick in?
I don't know about Canadian law, but it's definitely an invasion of privacy. While you're trying to find out the legal side of it, pick up a portable door lock. You don't have to nail or screw it to anything and it will keep him out while you are inside.
What about this or something like it?
I carry this in my pocket book at all times
I've been using the same on the bezel of my TV. You must be using the 3M Command strips too? They're excellent!
I use these. Always keep a pack handy. Just cut them into shorter pieces for applications like this.
Just used command strips dude
I stopped using nails years ago
There’s also this, OP.
I say this with a bit of pettiness and a lot of “be prepared for her craziness”:
[Portable door lock](Addalock - (1 Piece ) The Original Portable Door Lock, Travel Lock, AirBNB Lock, School Lockdown Lock https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00186URTY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_2QZ2DbZXWEKEM)
That looks pretty nice. I came up with a different solution myself last year so I thought I'd share. It's pretty cheap and all you need are some Monkey Hooks. You can find them at any Wal-Mart or Home Depot as well
If you've never used one before you simply push the longer end into the drywall and it leaves a hook it the wall like so
Then I held up a record to get the spacing right, two on bottom, one on top
The records sit nicely in the grove left by the hook without leaving any scratches. The remaining exposed part is also pretty small so it's barely visible
You can buy it off amzon here
-posts to r/libertarian
[Please neck ur self] (https://www.amazon.com/Koch-5011635-Twisted-Polypropylene-Brown/dp/B002T44UGA/ref=sr_1_7?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1539932649&amp;sr=8-7&amp;keywords=rope)
Kwikset interior door emergency key
It is a "key" for an interior door.
I'm with you. I've used this kit from amazon for $8 to change all the locks on a house myself quite easily. They're really not as complex to change as you think.
They make ice cream locks. My husband got me one while we were renting from my dad. Yes my 56 yo father would steal my ice cream.
This is the best I've found. It folds into a small enough package to put on the hip of your pants.
It can't be cut with cable Cutters due to the material in shape.
The cuff parts are wrapped in rubber so they don't scratch your onewheel.
I wonder if those are harder to break then a u-lock.
They are coated with rubber so no scratch and intimidating as they look like cuffs. Attach them to your frame and bike seat support for easy carry.
I believe it was these... its been a while...
Here is a pic of them in action...
3M Command Strips:
One large strip will hold up to 5 pounds
That's a tricky one. Normally I'd say get the hell out because the guy definitely does not know his boundaries. You just being nice to him makes him think you wants to fuck and that's just pathetic and wrong.
However realistically if you only have two months to go, it might be tricky to break your contract and find a new place just like that. And expensive.
Have you tried to specifically tell him at a neutral time (for example, not after he tried something with you in anger) that you do not appreciate his advances and that if he touches you inappropriately again, you'll go to the cops?
Or if that's a scary prospect, perhaps put it in writing? After saying that, ignore contact with him. Be clear about that - don't be polite, you don't have to be. He ruined that. Also get some pepperspray just in case.
As for your door, try and find one of these locks. They do not require any drilling what-so-ever (I assume because you're renting you can't drill in the doors for a real lock) and will still offer extra safety and security, so you at least will feel a bit more comfortable for the remaining two weeks.
Here's a cheap lock you can get for your door that doesn't require installation: Amazon Page
These work pretty good in my experience. Cheapest ones I've seen are around 5 bucks.
What about temporary locks while you're in there? I can't see how that's any different than putting a chair against the door.
This is my go to for all exterior doors, would be difficult to defeat. There is no opening the door if this is latched vs th chain/u style.
As a temp alternative I also have an addalock:
For lazy non-Japanese:
Here, or here.
And, if you like Ebay better than Amazon, try here.
> If you like gifts, buy yourself something.
This was the first result for 'noose' on Amazon!
These ones are way way way better.
One of the guys I work with swear by those snaptoggle things (not an affiliate link).
I haven't tried them, personally, but I hear good things.
Kwikset Interior Door Emergency Key for interior doors [bedroom/bathroom)
What type of locks are they? You can fin pin kits on Amazon to rekey about 6 locks.
Here is a kit that i bought and if you take your time its not too bad.
I purchased a kit on Amazon and did it myself. It wasn't too difficult. The kit I bought isn't available anymore. This looks similar: Prime-Line Products E 2402 Schlage Type C Re-Keying Kit, 5 Pin https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008RIDQD0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_tWGBxbH4DT832
Let me preface with saying I have never bought a Schlage Prefab Repin kit.
This one on Amazon looks good for the price.
It seems to have everything. There are few complaints in the reviews:
Schlage are a little bit more money. These are the pins I buy from CLK Supply. You can try their discount code RCLP2 and that is good for 20% off all pins most of the time.
If you need any additional help feel free to ask!
You probably need permission, but this door armor kit is great:
For added security, this is a quick and easy install as well:
I use these and like them very much. Manufacturer claims they can withstand 800 lbs of force.
Defender Security U 10827 Door Reinforcement Lock https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D2K367Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_TLxrDbT1FX3XQ
Throw some 3-4" screws in the existing door hardware, add some sort of reinforcement kit, and one of these: https://www.amazon.com/Defender-Security-10827-Door-Reinforcement/dp/B00D2K367Y/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=door+lock&amp;qid=1568094419&amp;s=gateway&amp;sr=8-4
That's so the tenant doesn't complain about not having their preferred type of lock (usually bar/chain, knob, and dead bolt), not because it makes the door significantly more secure.
If you want a really secure door you need to reinforce the area around the door knob + deadbolt and use one of the long striker plate + dead bolt plates that screws throughout a significant portion of the door jamb. More locks doesn't help significantly.
Something like this https://www.amazon.com/Door-Armor-MAX-Complete-Reinforcement/dp/B00E9ZGWNQ/ref=pd_sbs_60_7?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B01GWF2R70&amp;pd_rd_r=BHA3GZQRWHZETC04GYK9&amp;pd_rd_w=XrLDN&amp;pd_rd_wg=v3WH3&amp;refRID=BHA3GZQRWHZETC04GYK9&amp;th=1 and this https://www.amazon.com/Prime-Line-Products-10539-Reinforcer-Stainless/dp/B006GDULOK/ref=pd_sbs_60_5?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B006GDULOK&amp;pd_rd_r=BHA3GZQRWHZETC04GYK9&amp;pd_rd_w=XrLDN&amp;pd_rd_wg=v3WH3&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=BHA3GZQRWHZETC04GYK9&amp;tag=electronicfro-20&amp;dpID=31nHV6bQZ9L&amp;preST=_SY300_QL70_&amp;dpSrc=detail .
or if you're not wanting to spend quite that much https://www.amazon.com/Prime-Line-10385-Strike-Accommodates-Centers/dp/B00D2K33NG/ref=pd_sbs_60_1?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B00D2K33NG&amp;pd_rd_r=V5PE4T17CV9YT4814EJT&amp;pd_rd_w=jqrLM&amp;pd_rd_wg=96nb6&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=V5PE4T17CV9YT4814EJT&amp;tag=electronicfro-20&amp;dpID=31AjDUX1GIL&amp;preST=_SY300_QL70_&amp;dpSrc=detail and https://www.amazon.com/Prime-Line-Products-10539-Reinforcer-Stainless/dp/B006GDULOK/ref=pd_sbs_60_5?_encoding=UTF8&amp;pd_rd_i=B006GDULOK&amp;pd_rd_r=BHA3GZQRWHZETC04GYK9&amp;pd_rd_w=XrLDN&amp;pd_rd_wg=v3WH3&amp;psc=1&amp;refRID=BHA3GZQRWHZETC04GYK9&amp;tag=electronicfro-20&amp;dpID=31nHV6bQZ9L&amp;preST=_SY300_QL70_&amp;dpSrc=detail
If you have a solid door you can make it prohibitive to break just with the longer striker plate and screws that reach deep into the 2x4s on the other side of the jamb.
If you can't move arm your self and get security cameras. Please look into something like this for your door
Visit r/wyze and r/homedefense post this on home defense there are people that are more knowledgeable than me on there that can point you in the right direction. I am beyond glad you and your child are safe and I am also so sorry you had to go through something like that. you are an amazing mother and your survival skills are a testament to it.
Portable Door & Travel Lock
I fly long flights pretty often and also prefer to use my iPad in place of the crappy seat-back screen.
I use Command Strips Velco on almost all my long flights. Two of them will hold the iPad pro the entire flight. They're super lightweight and pretty affordable for what they do.
Make sure to wait until after take off. And I always try to mount the iPad when the flight attendants aren't looking. The strips do absolutely no harm but I just don't want to get into a debate. Make sure you remove them after the flight. I'd hate for this hack to get squashed.
Using the glue and shit people use, absolutely, however I use these which hang them up with no issues and will not ruin the walls: https://www.amazon.com/Command-Picture-Hanging-12-Pairs-17204-12ES/dp/B00LW1APOC/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1496467845&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=3m+command+strips
You can get a piece of plexi glass cut to whatever size you want at some hardware stores (you can also get a cheap poster frame and use the acrylic from that too as a cheaper alternative). You can use those [Command Velcro strips] (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LW1APOC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_LNzqybVAJGPHV) to attach it to the wall so it's easy to remove for clean up.
I've been using these. They seem to work pretty well: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00LW1APOC/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1484118376&amp;sr=8-1&amp;pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&amp;keywords=3m+hanging+strips&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51Z451rdD6L&amp;ref=plSrch
Bring one of these, just for fun.
(I know it won't solve the *real* problem though)
BQLZR Stainless Steel Kitchen... https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00KQH8HMU?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
What I ultimately wound up doing was going the Ikea route. I bought 2 of the Alex drawer units, and a 98" kitchen counter top as well as 4 legs. You can get a smaller counter top to match your available space. I am very happy with the set up and the whole thing was around $300 which is far less than you would spend on a purpose made desk. Links to the parts are below.
Alex Drawer Unit
Ekbacken Counter Top
Small legs for spacing off the top of the drawer units.
Anyone have a link for that desk?
Edit: Think I figured it out and will edit this comment for more visibility.
Appears to be the Karlby countertop combined with two Alex drawer sets and then with some risers (probably these but maybe these as pointed out by /u/unsupportive-tech) all combined to make the desk, which is not a product all in itself (at least it wouldn't seem that way.
I have almost this same desk (check my post history). The capita legs at Ikea are 4inches tall which almost made my desk TOO high. Love it over all though. There are better ones which I wish I would have went with BLQZR legs on Amazon which I believe are 2-2.5inches which would have been better, although I don't know the build quality on those. The Ikea Capita legs are sturdy as hell.
EDIT: these are the legs I was talking about on amazon, they were the ones the YouTuber RandomFrankP used as well https://www.amazon.com/BQLZR-Stainless-Kitchen-Adjustable-Furniture/dp/B00KQH8HMU
No problemo, here you go.
They are adjustable but they work nicely for me at the lowest height.
Maybe these would be better for you then putting holes in the wall?
(There are lots of other variations on this theme.)
I've noticed Costco also has these, if you have a membership you should check there.
I can totally relate to the reluctance to put holes in your wall. (Maybe that's not the issue, but if it is...)
So you want the other lamps to turn on when you turn on the switched outlet?
The sarcastic answer is: extension cords.
Non-sarcastic, I'm not aware of any consumer RF product that detects when an outlet turns on and sends out a signal to other smart plugs to also turn on.
I think the closest thing you'll find at the budget you're talking about are these Etekcity wireless wall plugs. I would forget about the switched outlet, and just use command strips to stick the remotes at locations you like, so all the lamps can be controlled by the remotes.
I used 2 velcro command strips per lighthouse and they've been rock solid since April. Mine are stuck to painted drywall so if you're sticking them to something else then your experience may vary
Why not skip the Velcro and just use this: http://www.amazon.com/Command-Picture-Frame-Hanging-Strips/dp/B00PLVLD86/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1459440086&amp;sr=8-3&amp;keywords=command+strip
Bondic is mental stuff!
I just used these fittings for my build. I tried super glue first. Would not recommend it. It cause the collars to become cloudy when the glue dried. And some cloudyness migrated up the tubing too.
I ended up buying this UV glue from amazon as i couldnt find anybody who carried monsoon's branded UV glue.
This stuff was perfect. Very strong and is holding well. And it cures clear.
I think Ikea has some, but maybe something like this https://www.amazon.com/VOVOV-Furniture-Cabinet-Adjustable-Stainless/dp/B01NCKZRTL/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=4+furniture+legs+steel&qid=1570707326&sr=8-5 ?
Deploy a Citrix or RDP redirect to his corporate PC over VPN VM for him to use with 2 factor authentication and a US-based certificate authority. That way he can travel with no corporate data in tow, where he might be forced to decrypt the laptop for foreign border agencies which are known to work with intelligence services. Since he will want to travel light, perhaps buy him a Macbook and don't forget power converters for Africa. Don't forget to deploy antivirus (with an uninstall password set) and filevault, even on Mac and make sure he cannot save the password in the RDP software. If you do go the Mac route, don't forget to deploy a password on the firmware as well. Don't give him local admin on the laptop but insert a local admin account for a backup he doesn't know exists unless told about in a troubleshooting session.
I hate Surface Pro's but they are such a bitch to tamper with (don't forget to also setup secure boot microsoft only, no USB boot allowed in the uefi firmware and set a password on it) that most attempts would be physically visible. Remember, give him a REALLY GOOD remote experience (Citrix works good over high latency / low bandwidth links) and he will want to comply with all of this.
Do not allow him under any circumstances to take an Android phone overseas. I highly recommend a iPhone with a heavy duty "Unicorn Beetle" case (check Amazon) and a USB charge only cable: https://www.amazon.com/PortaPow-Block-20AWG-Lightning-Cable/dp/B01F7AU62E/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1522957207&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=charge+only+iphone&amp;dpID=31dRwWAKkBL&amp;preST=_SY300_QL70_&amp;dpSrc=srch
For everything else: https://www.amazon.com/PortaPow-Data-Blocker-Adaptor-SmartCharge/dp/B00T0DW3F8/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1522957248&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=charge+only+adapter
and send him with at least two of these: https://www.amazon.com/Rishon-Enterprises-Inc-I9889-Addalock/dp/B00186URTY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1522957319&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=hotel+room+lock these should be inside his laptop bag and with him at all times. I recommend a backpack: North Face Borealis.
If he's going out of cell range, I recommend purchasing a Garmin Inreach and activating it for $65 a month. It will allow him to cheaply send and receive SMS messages via Iridum and a smartphone. Let him know that any communications over this is not secure whatsoever.
Run firmware updates on everything right before he leaves.
One of these
I have this for extra peace of mind. Addalock - (1 Piece) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00186URTY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_wozkzb1CD13WK
Trying to keep your landlord out? Lol
Try this, if you just like to be secure you can also take it with you when you travel. It is cheap and you don't have to mount it.
It absolutely can. Its heavy, so you might opt out for a lighter version, but yeah that can be used anywhere.
check out the adalock btw if you are in and out of hotels alot :
If you're worried about the door locks, but cant change it due to the lease - one option is to lock it at night when you're home (sleep soundly) using a portable door jam.
Wyze Cameras are cheap and good if you dont care about hiding it.
Get Addalock - (1 Piece) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00186URTY/ref=cm_sw_r_awd_psjMub1YKTWMB for doors that don't have a dead bolt.
Get an Addalock https://www.amazon.com/Rishon-Enterprises-Inc-RE1001-Scratched/dp/B00186URTY/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1504463090&amp;sr=8-8&amp;keywords=door+lock
They don't alter the door frame or anything, you just put it when you are in the room and remove it when you want to leave. They are a life saver for privacy.
I saw someone mention a door jam bar, but those are large, these are travel size door jammer and locks, you can hide it in your purse when you leave for school so that he can't take it while you are out.
It's a travel door lock:
it's a traveler's door lock for added security in hotels
If it hasn't been suggested already, this doorstop is what I and my apartment mates use. It's renter friendly and you can use it on any door with a lock. It actually works really well. Best of luck!
It's not the same but I've had this one on my Amazon wishlist forever now. You just made me realize how old I am for having a toilet paper holder on a wishlist.
nice, but don't they use bidets equipped with warm air dryers nowadays?
edit: here is a similar toilet paper holder: https://www.amazon.com/EZ-CECOMINOD021717-EZ-Load-Toilet-Holder/dp/B001ONT90Y
or a bidet with warm air dryer: https://www.amazon.com/BATHWA-Temperature-Controlled-Posterior-Installation/dp/B079GT6CV2/
Here you go...
You made just enough
> Know where I can get a discount on a strong noose?
Free 2 day shipping with prime.
Sure? Or one that has a strong magnet so you don't have to drill into your chassis. $4
Edit: oh I just now see you are referencing that other thread. Weird. Carry on.
I've traveled from AZ -> NY twice, smoking the whole way.
In terms of where to carry it, if you're keeping enough for a couple of weeks, it'll help to store some of the long-term herb in magnetic key boxes attached under your car / in your wheel well / inside your dashboard. ( http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003WXGLS2/ref=pd_lpo_k2_dp_sr_1?pf_rd_p=486539851&amp;pf_rd_s=lpo-top-stripe-1&amp;pf_rd_t=201&amp;pf_rd_i=B000OQHS0U&amp;pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&amp;pf_rd_r=0MGQ564Y48CTZ9TMGMCV ) They don't hold too much, though.
I don't know if you smoke cigarettes, but they really help I think. Whenever I travel I don't even bring a bowl or any sort of piece, I smoke spliffs. I also roll my own cigarettes, and a "what's that smoky smell?" can easily be answered. Also, if you ever get pulled over, or you're rolling through stops, DON'T THROW YOUR ROACH OUT THE WINDOW. Cops hate this, it's disrespectful. Light another cigarette and keep it in your hand or your ashtray. I had a friend who got pulled over because he flicked a cigarette out the window while the cop was following him.
These are things I'm sure you could figure out, but when you're lighting up on the highway, you wanna be not surrounded by other cars. If you have to go a little bit slower than the rest of the traffic, so be it. Don't worry about truck drivers, they're pretty much cool.
As good an idea as it seems, smoking while stopped at a rest stop is a bad idea. In fact, smoking while stopped anywhere that you don't know very well is a bad idea.
Best of luck on your trip. I dunno what route you're going, but I suggest going to Zion National Park and Black Hills South Dakota. Don't go to any Subways (the sandwich shop) on your trip as tempting as it may be. They're everywhere but it's a waste of food. Go to some local little shop where all the locals hang out. They might give you weird looks but if you're high enough it won't be so bad.
Fellow 1920s house owner here...obviously, CHWK's suggestions are best, but if that doesn't work I've had good success with these into the plaster and lathe.
These snaptoggle toggle boltswork extremely well. There are a variety of sizes, so pick the ones that match the weight of what you are mounting. If you choose to follow the advice of others and mount plywood first, add the weight of the plywood and television together.
You don't need to use studs anymore. 4 of these guys and you can hang 75 lbs off of drywall. I've hung two 3 screens recently this way, works great. The two most recent were 55" samsungs and they only weight about 35 lbs a piece.
5 keys for 5 dollars - doesn't get cheaper
Interior door key, the kind with a single round hole.
Depending on the model of lock you have, you can also rekey them yourself. I've got this sitting in a drawer right now, waiting for all the contractors to finish work on our new place:
I had to make this exact choice when moving into my home recently. I ended up using door armor for the side garage door but haven’t yet installed the kit on the front door which will require some serious planing of the surfaces. I regret not installing it yet because my front door is literally the weakest point of our house.
We currently use this https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D2K367Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_bUOPBb062MTHT at when we are home but it’s a hassle.
Yeah, but you could get two of these for less than half the price of the Mech version, and it would do just as good a job.
I think the Mech version is too expensive for what it's worth. The Connect version might be more usable.
> Get a metal or solid-wood (not hollow core normal) door, preferably metal.
Those are both good choices. However, fiberglass doors will absorb some of the energy, and bounce it back at the offender if kicked, are more resistant to dings (in my experience), and can be easily patched. Down side is that they don't work with the magnetic trim seals.
Renforce both sides:
Edit: I did my first door in less than 4 hours with a friend helping. Re-trimming/painting took another couple hours. We were both handy, but not experienced at the time. Just make sure you buy the whole door/frame combo, and the right depth (for 2x4 or 2x6 framing). And don't try to be too gentle removing the trim. Just count on replacing it too.
Glad she kept her wits and is ok. She might think about installing this product on her doors. It’s for outside doors. I installed this on my house. NOBODY is getting inside my house. It comes in different colors to match any door. They are a bit pricey but work awesome.
Door Armor MAX – Complete Door Reinforcement Set in Satin Nickel — Door Security by Armor Concepts https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E9ZGWNQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ccl.zbPEB4YYJ
Don't worry, Ben & Jerry have got you covered
And require all ice cream be locked with one of these
Here you go: Masterlock Street Cuffs
Or you could buy a pair of these...
I used these locks when I owned my motorcycle. I believe they have a shorter version for bicycles. They're big and bulky but Master Lock has an anti-theft guarantee that they will reimburse you X amount of money if someone does actually cut/break the lock and steal your bike.
Master Lock Street Cuffs
Always have to worry about it unless you can hide it in a garage, and even then, people can see you driving it and parking it inside. There is no way to prevent a theft, just convince the casual theives to leave it alone.
A lot of sling owners use https://www.amazon.com/Master-Lock-Street-9-Hardened-8290DPS/dp/B0009V1WQQ/ and cut the wheel all the way to one side before putting them on.
Try covering it to hide it at a minimum.
Putting a keyless start like https://allthingsslingshot.com/products/keyless-ignition-for-the-polaris-slingshot to dissuade
Maybe a motion alarm with GPS as well?
I'm pretty rural and where I park mine can't be seen, plus I have a large dog that is very friendly but looks frightening, so I haven't put an alarm on mine.
-edit- fixed link
I mounted my lighthouses with 2 large 3M strips each (https://www.amazon.com/Command-Mounting-Refill-Strips-6-Strip/dp/B000FCGS5Y), and they're holding up perfectly fine.
Out of an abundance of caution I take the lighthouses off the mounts when I'm not using them though, so just the wall mount stays affixed. I think doing that they'll last practically forever, or at least until the next time I move.
Haven't had any tracking issues either, the mounts stay pointed the right way so you can just stick the lighthouses back on and they end up in the exact same spot, or close enough to not matter.
Were you using these things? Those should hold more than enough weight for beads.
I would suggest just to save your walls use these instead, it can hold a good amount of weight and safe on your paint
You really should mount it with nails or anchors.
But you could try using like 20 of these
Hmm that's a pity. What about a travel lock or door jammer?
Wow! This is infuriating. I am already paranoid and I haven't even had a bad apartment experience yet (fingers crossed!).
There are these locks on Amazon that are an addition to the regular locks, something like this:
My landlords also use something like this on the backdoor:
Stay safe everyone!
If you need a way to secure your doors.
Even if you're in the right, be prepared for them to try anyways.
NTA. Also, get a portable travel door lock. No swapping door handles required, and not too pricey.
Also either of these:
This is what I've used in the past - https://www.amazon.com/Addalock-Portable-Travel-AirBNB-Lockdown/dp/B00186URTY
I haven't purchased one yet as I have something else, but I learned about this in this sub and plan to purchase one.
Nevermind, you can get locks that work for both swing directions.
Swinging in is easy and can be done with a broken fork - https://lifehacker.com/use-a-broken-metal-fork-as-a-quick-door-lock-1629334758
Or you can purchase a similar device - https://www.amazon.com/Addalock-Portable-Travel-AirBNB-Lockdown/dp/B00186URTY/ref=sr_1_15?keywords=door+lock+bar&qid=1571501794&sr=8-15
If the door swings away, then you need something like this - https://www.amazon.com/DOOR-MONKEY-Door-Pinch-Guard/dp/B004ECJWK4/ref=sr_1_7?keywords=removable+door+lock+bar&qid=1571501864&sr=8-7
You can search 'temporary door locks' for options
Here is the one I bought. It had a travel case so you can bring it with you when you stay at an airbnb or something like that . It works so good. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00186URTY?psc=1&amp;ref=yo_pop_mb_pd_title
You could get an add a lock. It may work on both sides of the door and doesn't require installation. Http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00186URTY?pc_redir=1405302644&robot_redir=1
Try these Monkey Hooks they only make a small nail sized hole which is much easier to fix with quick dry spackle.
Install it as directed and I use leather boot laces tied in a square knot like this to loop around the neck and hang it off the hook. Be certain to tie a square knot and not a granny knot...
I'd never seen this product until I moved to Japan... so.... here's my pitch....
Do you hate changing the toilet paper rolls? do you just use the old cardboard roll still on the roll holder as a simple "shelf" for the new roll of TP? If so, you need this product. Hi, "REDHEAD_FUCK_ME" here for EZ load Toilet Paper Holder This product practically sells itself. I know what you're thinking... I've got $50 to spend and I want to improve my life. I under stand that, so many people do, and now here's your chance to do exactly that and spend less than half of your budget doing so.
Tired of those empty carboard toilet paper rolls hanging around your bathroom? Tired of dealing with that annoying spring-loaded metal or plastic tube that just seem to cooperate? Aren't you tired of the kids loading the TP onto the holder the wrong way? THE SOLUTION IS HERE.
The EZ-load Toilet roll holder uses top secret proprietary technology from the nation that brought you manga porn and the smart toilet! The sturdy ballistic composite EZ loader simply mounts to the wall right where your old TP roll holder was. Toss that old garbage away! The new EZ loader has two spring fed tabs that pop down and hold the TP roll securely, while allowing easy removal. To insert a new roll, push the roll up from the bottom and the tabs lock in place effortlessly. To remove the empty cardboard tube, grab the tube and simply pull up, and it pops right off.
Changing toilet paper has NEVER been THIS EASY. Do you have young children, or does grandma live at home now? EZ Load Toilet Roll Holder is perfect for them! Lazy-ass entitled children now might give just enough of a shit to change the roll themselves before yelling at you, slamming their door and playing minecraft all night. Grandma's weak-ass arthritic hands can even change the TP roll! If only she could still wipe, too!
Call now and we will include the "annoying flap cover" that you'll rip off and throw away once you discover it's a useless addition tacked on so that this ad makes it sound like you're getting more for your money.
Do you keep the new rolls in the same room? Maybe stack them up within arm's reach?
Or get one if those quick swap ones like: EZ-Load Toilet Paper Holder by EZ https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B001ONT90Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_CaHmybXN0HAD6
Make it so easy she'll take the path of least resistance. Say you've compromised and you expect her to as well. The threats and arguments are currently the path of least resistance.
here you go
I need to [TREAT MY-SELF] (http://smile.amazon.com/dp/B003WXGLS2/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&amp;colid=19XIKAS79AJYG&amp;coliid=ILQWIYKWT6A5R) to this. It's a magnetic key holder that I can place under my car. Not a true necessity but just in case clumsy me loses my keys, I always know where the other pair is.
dat dewy duchovny
Thanks for the contest!
Grab yourself one of these They work great. You can hide them in your bumper or under your car. I've always had them and ive never had a problem with them.
This is what you need.
DO NOT waste time trying to fill in the hole. Enlarge it a tiny bit, put this snap toggle in, and never worry about this issue again.
I would say a bed/bath door knob key for the door knobs with the simple turn lock on them with a hole on the opposite side, like these http://www.amazon.com/Kwikset-Emergency-Keys-Interior-Locksets/dp/B007F35V1I
Can't find one that looks like that one but it seems like it may work the same.
My last condo had the stupidest privacy handles. The sensible kinds are
But there is a third kind -- one that relies on either having a very tiny and specifically sized screwdriver or the Proprietary key. For when you want your hollow interior door to be "locked" by a key that you don't carry on you but anyone could order online.
What I called a church key was this:
"Church Key" is something else that would also be essential:
Get a re-key kit... $10. Home Depot has them too.
No locksmith needed, i use this:
Prime-Line E 2402 Re-Key A Lock Kit, Type "C", 5-Pin Tumbler Sets w/Pre-cut Keys https://www.amazon.com/dp/B008RIDQD0/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_6fFaAbT0PGWBZ
I own several rental properties and that's what I do every time new lease starts
I actually just did this at my house we bought last week! I bought schlage rekey set and even got the override on a smart key. https://www.amazon.com/Prime-Line-Products-2402-Schlage-Tumbler/dp/B008RIDQD0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1469820045&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=schlage+rekey
Hope this helps. Took me a few hours to do 5 locks and the smart lock but I also didn't know what I was doing. Really worth it.
That is good for 1 or two locks.
This is good for a fair number of locks but they don't have any springs.
Build your own kit.
Just to give you some info: the .003" and .005" on the LAB kits are the measurement of the difference in the increments between the heights of the pins. As you can imagine, the .003" kit can cover a wider variation of locks than the .005" kit can because the increments are lesser.
I have no idea what is included in the expensive re-key kits, but I bought this kit for $10 and rekeyed all the locks on my house.
Definitely cheaper than a locksmith.
That's really scary. I'm glad your dog alerted you! I'd follow up with a call to the police department. Others have great suggestions - I'd also recommend these door locks that we have: Defender Security U 10827 Door Reinforcement Lock - Add Extra, High Security to Your Home and Prevent Unauthorized Entry - 3" Stop, Aluminum Construction (Satin Nickel Finish) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D2K367Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_M1qiDbAVNK3XR
They are the worst, these people!
Perhaps replacing the lock right now but keeping the current lock to reinstall once you move would help? That way you have a locked door between you but she can't whine about her key not working because the lock still exists and will be put back in place once the space is hers to do with as she likes.
You need a safe space where these people can't reach you. In addition to chains, maybe one of these? I had a hotel room with something like this once and even though I was staying alone, I felt really secure.
Honestly I would probably add this type of product to all of my doors and windows and install Nest or Ring cameras at each entrance, if that's affordable. Maybe even one pointing at her workshop so you can see whether she's hanging around trying to peek at you, Spy vs Spy-style. 🙂
I got one of these for a door that is very similar to what you describe. it is way below the glass so it would be impossible to reach and unhinge from the outside. We only use it when we are on the inside, otherwise you cant get in.
Yes I know. There are a number of other factors involved here many of whom are out of my control as well. Anyway, I think I'll just install one of these. That was my initial idea but gf didn't like the look but she'll have to live with it. Thanks.
I use one of these for doors
It's just a 1/8th drill bit to prep the frame, then impact drive the 3" suckers in.
You could also spring for door armor which is a metal plate that sits between the door and frame that stops the frame from breaking if someone's kicking the door.
A lot of the folks here have given some great advice. I wanted to add my perspective:
Barricading yourself and calling the cops was the right thing to do. If anything, I would make sure my bedroom door has good locks, either a deadbolt or door reinforcement lock of some kind (https://www.amazon.com/Defender-Security-10827-Door-Reinforcement/dp/B00D2K367Y)
I have a gun in a quick-access safe in my master bedroom, but if the alarm ever goes off, my wife and I know that the first step is to lock/barricade the master bed room (I have deadbolts installed on the door), hit the panic button/call the cops, and then get the firearm ready as last resort.
Or get one of these. Cheap and effective. https://www.amazon.com/Prime-Line-Products-10827-Reinforcement-Construction/dp/B00D2K367Y/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1493833190&amp;sr=8-5&amp;keywords=door+reinforcer
direct u/short_comedy spam-bypassing link
Please report this post and user u/short_comedy for violating the rules for personal profit.
If moving is not an option, work on hardening your home. There are simple fixes you can do in a weekend, like installing this door stopper
3M makes a nice shatter proof glass film to install on your windows. Get a big dog. Install motion lights and cameras. Cameras are cheap these days. Alarms and security systems are useful. There are tons of little things to harden your home to deter criminals. If that doesn't work, your second layer of defense is advanced notice (dogs, lights, cameras) to give you time to get to your weapon.
These are all easy and minor fixes. It's a mindset...always work to improve your position and refuse to be a victim.
This may be a bit overkill, and you could find door reinforcements on a smaller scale, but after reading that most home invaders kick in your door to get in I figured why not.
Also, get a door reinforcement kit and install it. It may not of worked in this situation because of the door being glass and being able to break through and unlock it. For solid doors though, it's a must.
And reinforce the frame with something like this.
Definitely. These are the ones I put in.
And for my front door, which is 3/4 window, I put in a high security dead-bolt (AssaAbloy Protec2) with a locking thumb-turn. So even if someone smashes through the glass they can't unlock the deadbolt. The key is out of reach. They'd have to climb through.
The camera above the front door would likely discourage anyone from wanting to even try that. Or at least that's my hope. =P
What is weak about your door?
Think about getting something like this:
Sounds awful. DH had a friend over and he helped himself to my kitchen with out asking if the pregnant lady had plans for this food.
If he isn't leaving soon, how about an Ice cream lock?
Holy shit, Ben & Jerry's actually has one.
That height is correct. The KARLBY is 1 1/2" thick. So the top of the desk is 29". My old desk was 31 1/2" high so I was skeptical about loosing the few inches as well. But I can honestly say I much prefer the height of the IKEA build now that I'm used to it.
Also you can always use something to make it higher if you don't like it. I've seen a few IKEA builds use these to make increase the height. Here is a Reddit post where the person has these legs
Thanks! I'm very happy with how they are working out great how ever I would recommend not getting the 4" ones if you a shorter person. I'm 6'4" and it is border line to tall for me lol unless you don't mind you legs hanging.
BQLZR Stainless Steel Kitchen Adjustable Feet Round 2" Dia Furniture Leg Pack of 4 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KQH8HMU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_QtXozbXJ4V6DC
The desk is IKEA and one part from Amazon:
Alex Drawers x2:
BQLZR Stainless Steel Kitchen Adjustable Feet Round 2" Dia Furniture Leg Pack of 4 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KQH8HMU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_1su7CbPE8JM5P
If you look up the “Karlby IKEA Desk” online or YouTube or any media outlet I’m sure you’ll find a plethora of information. It’s a very popular desk setup.
Not to mention it fit perfectly in my bedroom nook.
A lot of people use risers like these
I got you my friend
Probably something like these
Hello, not OP, but they are something like these I believe.
3M commands strips: https://www.amazon.com/Command-Picture-Hanging-12-Pairs-17206-12ES/dp/B00LOQMCDM/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1511833029&amp;sr=8-2&amp;keywords=3M+command
The 3M Velcro strips are seriously magic. I used them in all of my apartments over the years.
Edit: Amazon link for reference
I'm sure what you've got there will work, but someone recommended these a few months back and I've been using them ever since. Has held up my one ceiling mounted camera since sometime last December!
Fully agreed - I had similar issues until I 'mounted' my 3 sensors a bit higher.
You can just use 3M Velcro strips and either of the mounts from Amazon below:
3M Velcro strips
White stationary mount
The nice thing about 3M Velcro strips is they hold tight, but are easy to remove when needed without leaving any marks or residue on the wall :)
Don't drill holes. Routers, modems, and many smaller switches are light enough that you can use 3M Command picture hanging strips. This is what I did with most of my equipment, and it's been hanging there for six months now with zero issues. Plus, you can pull them off the wall and move them around without making more holes. This is especially excellent if you're renting. :)
Hi, my tank is 80cm x 35cm x 40cm (LxBxH)
I am using screwless hooks, they stick on to a surface (people use them for hanging clothes, and you can get ones for hanging paintings with velcro, which I am using for their water bottle.)
Amazon link for hooks |
Amazon link for velcro
Any other questions, just let me know.
I used this. They come in different weight ratings so buy accordingly. They're removable too :)
Did you by chance put the adhesive rectangles on the backplate? The backplate's side that faces the motherboard has 2 rectangles of raised plastic on 2 sides, and 2 pieces of double-sided adhesive foam are attached to the backplate inside those rectangles, then the backing of the adhesive facing the motherboard is removed, and the backplate pressed into the motherboard, thus securing it to the motherboard.
This adds a couple millimeters of distance from backplate to standoff screws, and without this the standoff screws will have some slack/play.
Also, you might just be using the AMD standoffs - they're a hair taller and will leave a slight gap between cooler and CPU.
Different screws might also have different depth - the LGA 2011 screws will have less thread, so there might be some play between bracket and standoff, leading to looseness.
Try messing with all standoff/screw configurations, and if you're missing the adhesive try to improvise something that'll add a couple millimeters distance from the backplate and motherboard.. couple pieces of carboard cut to that rectangle, taped up, and then taped to motherboard would probably cut it.
Edit: I just got home and checked the adhesive and it's about half a centimeter thick. If you don't have the adhesive, you could shim it with 2 command strips. Smooth 2 together on the velcro side, cut to fit, remove adhesive, slap on bracket, remove adhesive, apply bracket to motherboard. Should give you that half centimeter distance. Hopefully you have the adhesive on hand though. Easy to lose. It's about 3/4" x 1/4", little white rectangle x 2.
Bondic! Wish I could get some on my store.
Bondic - Liquid Plastic Welder - LED UV Light Activated Bonding Tool - Waterproof And Heat Resistant - Starter Kit https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00QU5M4MG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_LyiADbXCCZXJ4
Something along these lines seems like it would work great for on the fly repairs. Im gonna take my fathers advice and just buy one for myself for the future!
Get bondic. I used to use super glue but discovered Bondic. I confirmed with the company its 100% Salt and Freshwater safe once cured. Takes 4 seconds to cure once the UV is blasted on it. The stuff is amazing.
That will be a problem. As others said, best solution is to replace the switch, but that will require opening up the KB, desolder the existing switch, and solder the new one in.
Temporary solution would be needle-nose plier and pull out the stem's remainder, then super-glue the stem back, reinforce with Bondic plastic welder from the outside (a little ring around the break)
This is a weakness of the floating design keyboards... not much protection from lateral forces, eps. in the corners. If you use a carrying case, think about adding some reinforcement in the bottom. Cardboard would do. If you want to go fancy I think Elite keyboards have "Keyboard tent" hard shells for sale.
I've seen a vid on facebook where a guy repaired a leg with bondic. I bought some but have not used it yet.
/u/zodd06 mentioned bondic which I really hope I never need but that looks like a future solution.
The desktop is an Ikea Karlby kitchen countertop. It's sitting on top of 2 Ikea Alex drawers and I used some furniture legs you can get on amazon for cheap as the lifts.
VOVOV Furniture Cabinet Metal... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NCKZRTL?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
You all are correct, I went to ikea store and got the countertop karlby wood. Very durable and meant for rough encounters. Mixed with Grey or black Alex drawers and I love it. Very popular on reddit, I don't bolt them down but you can with these if you want. Also upgraded from a glass desk and I love this setup!
VOVOV Furniture Cabinet Metal... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NCKZRTL?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
I’m also 5’10” and I fit in just fine. I went from having the IKEA Linmon desk and it was almost the exact height as this one so I’m already used to it. If height is a problem for you I would recommend ordering some adjustable metal legs like for furniture. A lot of people are using these to put between the desk and cabinets to raise it up a little bit, and plus they make it look a bit nice imo. VOVOV Furniture Cabinet Metal Legs Adjustable Stainless Steel Kitchen Feet Round Black and Silver 50 x 50mm Pack of 4 + 16x Screw https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NCKZRTL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_HVysDbDZYE9PG
Thanks. Got these on Amazon.
These I just took the black caps off.
They're these: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01NCKZRTL
And I wrapped the metal parts in this: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078W57WGY
You gotta get one of those Häagen-Dazs locks.
Edit - actually it's a Ben and Jerry's lock, but probably fits any pint:
Ben & Jerry's Euphori-Lock Ice Cream Pint Combination Lock Protector https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00ENRK812/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_zmi9Ab77BP2ZS
For anyone who feels unsafe in a place where someone else has a key, get one of these 1, 2, 3. They only work while you're already inside your room/home/apartment, but make it so no key or lockpick will let someone in. Peace of mind when you sleep.
Practice using it if you get one in case of a fire or other quick-exit need.
Also : https://www.amazon.com/Calslock-Portable-Door-Travel-Lock/dp/B00GMPFCNC
These ones are the ones I got https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KQH8HMU/ref=olp_product_details?_encoding=UTF8&amp;me=
Yes Exactly. I screwed them to the top of the Alex drawers, they even came with the screws.
Ikea Capita Legs are popular: https://m.ikea.com/us/en/catalog/products/art/60263574/
Others on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NCKZRTL/ref=cm_sw_r_oth_api_G7KVBbXT06DCJ
BQLZR Stainless Steel Kitchen... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KQH8HMU?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
Oh those are just kitchen legs from amazon
BQLZR Stainless Steel Kitchen... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KQH8HMU?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share here you go (:
Yea no worries, here you go
BQLZR Stainless Steel Kitchen Adjustable Feet Round 2" Dia Furniture Leg Pack of 4 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00KQH8HMU?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
Here. but it's on amazon.ca
yeah bro its the ikea linnmon desk with two alex drawers https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/linnmon-alex-table-white-s59932698/
and i also added these stands to the drawers to raise the tabletop up a little https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KQH8HMU/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o07_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
I found them!
They look perfect. Thanks. Now I just gotta rip everything off my desk and put them on. Hmph.
Hey OP, i came across this which may help you
He links to the legs he used in the description, they are here - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KQH8HMU/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&amp;tag=i0698-20&amp;camp=1789&amp;creative=9325&amp;linkCode=as2&amp;creativeASIN=B00KQH8HMU&amp;linkId=474da406e3943f49980ac15715cf8c5f
Hey! Thank you I appreciate that! I made them using these [legs] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KQH8HMU) and used just the top part of this [monitor riser] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01A6LS9P0). Anything for the top works, one of the stands is a computer door from an ikea desk (can you tell which one, haha). I just found a monitor riser that was close in size.
Ah that makes sense. I'm planning to use some 4 in legs to give my desk some extra height. https://amzn.com/B00KQH8HMU If I don't bolt the braces into the Aleks drawers, do you think sagging will be a problem? Thanks!!
I honestly don't understand all these posts about buying $30+(x2) poles and clamps etc. It's silly, especially for a uni student.
This is what you want
Things you will need:
So essentially what you will be doing is drilling into the wood block to mount the vive brackets, and then putting the wood block assembly onto the wall with command strips.
Just make sure to get a thick piece of wood, but not too thick. 1 1/2 inches (3.8cm) thick should do, but it's up to you; and after you get the wood block, make sure to get screws that will NOT pierce your wall. IE: Stop inside the wood block.
Cheap, and doesn't wobble like light poles/clamps etc. (Which are quite silly)
PS: The drill can be found for less than $20. You don't need anything fancy. Also, if you feel confident, you can screw the screws in by hand with a screwdriver, further cheapening the mounting. Also, a tip for the wood block, most hardware stores allow you to cut down the piece of wood right there on site, just ask.
I use the pulleys on the ceiling but I attached them with Command Strips. I used the velcro ones to hang pictures. No need to worry; just remove them cleanly when needed.
this is a dope space! i'd love spend a year or two in japan someday; what's the rent for a place like this?
you can definitely still hang stuff without nails or thumbtacks; look into some heavy-duty 3M strips like this. maybe focus on finding lighter frames to ensure everything stays up.
other than that, get some standing shelves and fill them with cool/weird/interesting knick knacks. idk what the thrifting/antiquing scene is like in Nihon, but that's an easy way to find cool, vintage stuff to display. my personal favorites are old cameras, telephones, radios, etc.
My entire house has a ton of command strip devices in it, including the four camera mounts. Clean the surface with rubbing alcohol, let it dry. Apply the strip to the camera mount first, then press the mount to the wall surface for a minimum of 30 seconds. Put your back into it! The only strips that have come down are the craptastic cable ties that tend to break with a light breeze.
Really, what you want for the camera mounts are these strips. They are overkill, velcro (easily removable/adjustable), and worth every penny.
similar to this? https://www.amazon.com/Command-Picture-Hanging-12-Pairs-17206-12ES/dp/B00LOQMCDM/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1497244332&amp;sr=8-4&amp;keywords=command+strips
3M Command mounting strips. They are apparently easy to remove (haven't actually tried). You can get these with just the tape or this velcro-like strips which will let you readjust the frame if needed.
Try these plus these. Admittedly I don't have mine on the ceiling, but I don't see why they wouldn't work.
I'm in an apartment so I didn't want to go with anything permanent. After trying a few things I ended up just using two 3m Command Strips on each base and mounted them upside down. Actually works really well.
So it's tough for your space since it's pretty small. Given the furniture you have that could interfere I would probably place the one camera centered on the wall above your bed up near the ceiling and angled towards the center of your play area, and the other centered above your window near the ceiling.
Generally having them in opposite corners (this is how mine are) would be better, but your cabinets would get in the way. You might have some issues since you will be fairly close to the camera, but I think you can get away with it.
My cameras are mounted using 3m command strips and small camera mounts. I chose this route since I cannot drill into my apartment walls without losing my deposit. I just stuck the strips to the back of the mounts and to the walls. If you choose this route make sure you give the adhesive some time to set before you actually put the camera up (on both the camera mount and the wall).
These are what I used:
As an alternative to velcro you could use these.
these will do the job
I'm assuming you mean wires outside the case and not inside.
I picked up a bag of adhesive cable clips for a few bucks. Definitely helpful for routing wires around or under a desk. These are what I bought, but there are lots of different ones you can looks through.
Velcro ties also come in handy frequently and they are adjustable/reusable. You can also use them for cable management inside your case.
I also use Command Strips to position my router and surge protector on the wall, but that's a personal preference.
I just use my cheapo deapo laser level and a ruler. To each their own though.
Edit: Command strips are the way to go. They can be used to hang just about anything. The velcro strips can hold up to 16 pounds with 2 of them on a picture or item. Most everything even close to 16 pounds or under in my house is command strip hung. No need at all for putting holes in the drywall.
https://www.amazon.com/Command-Picture-Hanging-12-Pairs-17204-12ES/dp/B00LW1APOC - no affiliate link
If you have some basic wiring skills, you could use LED lights like some mentioned. I went this route connected to a remote controlled outlet and it works great. I like the light bars since you can reuse them later more easily than taping plain LED light strips onto the underside directly.
Some cheap lights if you're patient and willing to give AliExpress a try: LED Light strip bars, 12V driver (it also works for 120V), sticky strips, wireless outlet and/or switched cord.
I use these mounts with command strips for my sensors. Two strips per mount and they seem very stable
I used command velcro to hang things all the time. I also used them to keep the cabinets shut to keep the cat out of them.
It's the spike end of velcro interlocking to another spike end, pretty secure and it comes off without messing up the wall. Use a little heat if you cut it down to size and get rid of the tab for removal.
Sorry about formatting. On mobile
This is what I use, and it works perfectly amazing:
Velcro Command Strips (3 lb holding limit):
Super lightweight plastic mounts:
Put a strip on the wall and a strip on the mount, screw the camera head into the mount, and stick it to the wall. Holds perfectly fine. I've never had it fall off or had any problem.
here's the thing I have learned about the cameras: you don't truly need them to be 6 feet high and you don't need them to be at a 30-40 degree angle. All that really matters is that at least one camera can see the headset at all times. I've had to adapt to different demo environments, for example with one camera being on a 4.5ft tall surface while the other camera was on a 3ft tall surface; both cameras were opposite of each other and I never had problems. As long as you can set the camera on a flat surface you should be good to go.
EDIT I just saw that you said the room had no shelves or anything, sorry about that, that was my fault. I've read where some people will get a Velcro adhesive and that that's worked for them so you could try that.
They are like velcro, Amazon has them so here's a link because I didn't know how else to explain them haha
I was nervous at first but once I did it, I felt how secure they are. I mounted mine on the top corners, once I'm home I can show you a better picture, but I'm out of town! I just take them off by pulling the bottom off and they kind of peel off of the wall. The Command strip instructions said to do it that way with whatever you hang because it will be less damaging to the stuff hanging and easier to take off too. They're super secure and I am definitely not worried about them falling down anymore. And the strips peel off nicely so it will be easy to take them off if I don't want to hang them anymore.
Command Picture Frame Hanging Strips
There is a ton of variety between sizes and quantities so that might not be the one that's best for this application. We use these things all of the time. So much easier than hooks/nails.
I orderd 4 of these for my 4 cameras and some 3M command Velcro Picture Hanging strips to attach them to the walls.
I use 3M Velcro hanging strips and they work great for Dots, Echos and speakers. I was a little worried the Dot connected speaker I have mounted in my shower might be a problem because the sticky side and steam but (rather heavy) Anker Soundcore 2 Speaker has been mounted here for a couple of months and no problems. The 24 hour battery life is long enough I haven’t had to charge it yet but the Velcro allows it to be snapped down fairly effortlessly to do so.
I used some of the removable 3m picture hangers. Two of the large ones for each lighthouse. It works perfectly. So instead of screw holes i just have a little gum potentially when i move.
Ive used this a couple times: Bondic
Its a type of glue that cures using the UV light from an led. They got a few of them at my workplace and they seem pretty useful.
Edit: Just read the description, apparently its not a glue but a plastic that remains liquid till you cure it with UV light and has quite good bonding capabilities. The reviews are hit and miss so maybe it depends a lot on the bonding surfaces.
I've actually come to use Bondic UV plastic welder 😜
Oh no! lol if the super glue isn’t enough you could use liquid plastic. Its a clear gel that hardens with UV light. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00QU5M4MG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Uwg7CbBCY51YC
Here's a (supposedly) better one on Amazon.
I would assume the radiator kits would be toxic.
Other info would be
Why cant you find a leak in something that is 1/2 inch big.
Needing it to be non toxic would be helpful
What is the pipe to maybe replacement is your best case
Googling "non toxic liquid pipe fixer" came back with this https://www.amazon.com/Bondic-Activated-Waterproof-Resistant-Anything/dp/B00QU5M4MG
You can use thr Capita legs from IKEA, or [these](http://www.VOVOV.com/ Furniture Cabinet Metal Legs Adjustable Stainless Steel Kitchen Feet Round Black and Silver 50 x 50mm Pack of 4 + 16x Screw https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NCKZRTL/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_-dDlDb0QNS036) from Amazon since they're half the height
These are the ones I have
Thanks and sorry for the late reply. The wallpaper is from Ori and the Will of the Wisps, an upcoming game (first game called Ori and the blind forest is also worth looking at, has some great visuals too). The two stands at the side are custom made simply by using some small furniture legs similar to these which made it easy to adjust the height of the monitors.
These for the turntable. https://www.amazon.com/Nobsound-Aluminum-Speakers-Isolation-Amplifiers/dp/B07K9ZYP84
These for the Kallax. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01NCKZRTL?psc=1&amp;ref=ppx_pop_mob_b_asin_title
My toddler loves to run around the house and this combination helped me dramatically with my skipping issues.
Get away from U locks
If you come back to the same place every night then invest in a kryptonite chain, vs a U lock. Even with a angle grinder it is much harder to find a static place to cut on these chains, vs a U lock.
I actually stopped using U locks entirely, after seeing how easy it is to pop them. Thieves in cities are experts at just using leverage to pop them in seconds. It is much heavier to lug the chan but small price to pay for security.
I also use this for my front wheel if I am planning on leaving my bike for a extended period
So far my overkill locking method has prevented anyone from even attempting to mess with my bike.
I'll be the lookout while you sneak them through the back stairwell.
Or on second thought...
I don't use one (or any lock) but if I did I'd be looking at one of these:
The Master Lock 8290DPS 22-inch 9-Link Street Cuffs Lock. I put it around the front truck and post when making quick stops at the store https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009V1WQQ/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_apip_SvXOGkxpKcSsR
The [Masterlock street cuff locks](Master Lock Street Cuff Locks, 9-Hardened Steel Links, 22 in. Long, 8290DPS https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0009V1WQQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_dtUPBbV592QP5) are pretty damn good. But, if someone really wants to steal your stuff they will come prepared with a grinder, sawzall, bolt cutters, plasma torch, etc.
Have you considered one of these? My coworker has a $2000+ bike and he locks it up with something similar. Im not sure the exact model of his lock. I was wondering if it was more or less secure than a u lock.
These are pretty sweet and not that easy to get through unless you bring some serious tools!
It's a bike lock you know.. http://www.amazon.com/Master-Lock-8290DPS-22-Inch-9-Link/dp/B0009V1WQQ
Agreed on the full charge before riding it which will almost certainly take 6+ hours depending how much charge it has when it arrives.
The throttle has a variety of settings that make it work properly with the scooter (e.g. it knows how to properly assess distance ridden and battery power and so on). My Zero 10x came with a sheet spelling it out. As it happened, RevRides, who I bought it from, had already made the settings but something to check (once set correctly you never want to mess with them).
There are also a few user changeable settings for the ride you want such as how strong the regen braking is, how much torque it'll give on acceleration, miles or kilometer display and so on. I went with middle-of-the-road settings myself but this is all a matter of user preference so know they are there and fiddle with them till you get it all as you want. NOTE: I was encouraged to leave auto-pilot off till I became experienced with the scooter which I did.
Know that this is lightyears more powerful than the Lime scooter. Give it some respect when you first start riding. Leave it in Mode 1 (of three) "low" speed setting, only one motor active, Eco on and have a whirl. You'll get used to it quickly but the torque and acceleration can be surprising. Top speed too once you engage higher speed modes.
Also, and maybe this was just mine, but I find the brakes to be really touchy. Like they grab pretty hard even with a light touch which wants to throw me forward. No accidents or anything but at 60 miles ridden the brakes are still touchy on mine and a bit uncomfortable (read jerky when first applied). Just something to watch out for till you get used to it. I hope it is just a matter of breaking them in some more and/or getting more used to modulating them properly. That or perhaps my local bike shop can lighten them up a bit (bicycle brakes so they are familiar with them).
I have found no reason to carry a charger with me. These charge up pretty slowly so charging on the go won't get you much compared to some smaller scooters. Leave a charger at the office and one at home and you should be fine. It has a pretty long range so should be good for most jaunts on a single charge. Of course YMMV depending on your needs and use.
As for locking it up realize you are parking $1500 on the street and this will catch people's eyes. Cable locks are close to worthless (they can be gotten through with a hand-held, concealable tool in seconds). After much looking and asking I settled on Master Lock Cuffs. I clamp one end to the stem, below the control cables and the other to the bike rack. It will stop anyone unless they go at it with an angle grinder (which some might but not likely in public during the day). I am getting a handlebar bag where I will carry it but till then they are fine in my backpack (a little heavy but no biggie). Nothing is perfect but these are pretty good.
Heard good things about these as well. If someone really wants your shit, and comes prepared, they’re going to get it. Grinder/sawzall would easily defeat damn near anything.
Thanks! I'll look into BikeLink!
Yes, it's both the weight and the dimensions. The Dart has a really spacious deck. Nice for riding, a bit awkward for maneuvering. I hear ewheels is coming out with trolley wheels soon. That may help a bit, but I still think it's too large to take in most places. It's fine for stairs at home --> to work, though. Certainly not something I'll be stashing under the table at a restaurant like I did with the Glion.
Wheels are mostly covered, so locking through them is out with any serious lock. I got StreetCuffs based on somebody's recommendation here, and I think they'll work out well enough. I think the best place to lock will be around the little neck between the deck and the actual pole, right around where the foot pedal to fold is. If I fold it up, it would be impossible to even unfold the thing with the cuffs on. A U-Lock could work in this area as well.
These are the StreetCuffs: https://www.amazon.com/Master-Lock-Street-9-Hardened-8290DPS/dp/B0009V1WQQ/
I didn't get the rapid charger. It does take awhile to charge, but so far the battery has lasted as much as I've needed it to in a day and I'm content to just let it charge overnight.
Good luck with whatever you choose! I really do love the Dart - if you can find a way to live around the size, it is a fantastic ride for the price!
those 745's just take standard 3.5" SATA Hard drives. the issue is that the hard drive caddy wont carry a 2.5" SSD.
you do get adapter rails, but many of them dont have the exact hole pattern of a standard 3.5" hard drive and may not fit in the Dell caddy.
what i would do is simply use a one or two command strips to attatch the drive to the Dell caddy.
i woud opt for a 120GB drive atleast
https://www.amazon.com/Command-Mounting-Refill-Strips-6-Strip/dp/B000FCGS5Y/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1466442168&amp;sr=8-1&amp;keywords=command+large+refill I've just been sticking two of these refills on the provided wall mount. I've been moving my vive around a lot for demoing so they're great for temp use. The longest I've had a mount up before moving it is a week and it still had a strong stick.
The Targets by me sell refill packs. They are usually at the bottom of the shelf. Either that or Amazon.com
> Command adhesive strips
How do you remove them? do I also need to scrap some stuff with a razor blade?
I use the 3M temporary two sided tape. Holds solid and easy to take off with a plastic card between the stand and speaker. Just cut into smaller strips, they hold really well.
I recommend the Command (https://www.amazon.com/Command-Refill-Strips-6-Strips-17023P-ES/dp/B000FCGS5Y) strips. They are SUPER good and one strip can hold around 3 pounds (I think a whole aurora ways less then that), so it should hold them pretty well, just use A TON.
(sorry - thought this got eaten in a spam filter and was sad)
This is 3M magic adhesive that I have used before and doesn't cause damage when removed a year after application.
My flatmate speculates the wall is made of plaster, if that helps.
I was planning on using either:
large 3m strips
which are rated by 3M at 5 lbs/strip, and put 9 strips/board, and maybe fill in the gaps with something that comes 9 strips/pack like these medium strips (3lbs/strip)
Should use some Command mounting strips
>I can understand the use of referral links and lots of people say they don't care. Nor do I honestly, except he wasn't contributing to this subreddit. He posted the exact setup 9 months (and 8 months) ago, this means he's here for the sole purpose to gain profit.
>Sure, he spent a lot of money, it's not disruptive, it's victimless, it doesn't hurt anyone and it's not a big deal. But it seems as if he's only here to earn money, he didn't even show a walkthrough of the computer build, he isn't a regular, he doesn't contribute to discussion. He posted multiple times like I've already mentioned and nothing has changed in all those posts.
>He's not here to show people his setup, he didn't even build anything. He's here to profit off us. Multiple posts of the same setup with all the affiliate links in every post, including links to something like a phone...
>Also, the problem is links like this act as infections. For approximately 24 hours (I think) after you've clicked a referral link, he will get a portion of the sale on anything you buy, so if you click a link to see the price of the something or investigate, he will earn money off everything you purchase in the next 24 hours off Amazon.
>So earlier today I came across this post.
>I thought it was a bit suspicious how he documented absolutely every part of this "build" even though it isn't a build, it's a battlestation.
>He has since removed all information from his Reddit post, presumably after I commented about the Amazon links found in the post.
>It didn't look right because he provided links to every single item in this setup. All Amazon affiliate links, for him to make money off us.
>Not so bad though, right? Well, his Reddit username is "BlackWhite01", his Imgur username is "blackandwhitebattlestation", and he's been posting this absolutely identical set up on both Imgur and Reddit multiple times for a year.
>He did not intend to show off his battlestation, or even his computer build, he intended to come here and make money off of /r/battlestation and /r/buildapc mainly, but he's posted to a lot of other subreddits as well - presumably to pay off this setup and the ridiculous chair ($1,500).
>What really pisses me off is that he's also included affiliate links to stupid products like his phone. His phone?! It's fucking /r/buildapc.
>Alright, so there's a run down of all his Imgur and Reddit post history.
>Please do not click on any of the Amazon links, I've posted all items without any affiliations below.
> Submitted Imgur albums!
> Imgur Album 1.
> Imgur Album 2
> Imgur Album 3
> Imgur Album 4
> Imgur Album 5
> Imgur Album 6
> Imgur Album 7
> Imgur Album 8
> /u/BlackWhite01 - archive link: /u/BlackWhite01
> Reddit Post 1
> Reddit Post 2
> Reddit Post 3
> Reddit Post 4
> Reddit Post 5
> Reddit Post 6
> Reddit Post 7
> Reddit Post 8
> Reddit Post 9
> Reddit Post 10
>* Reddit Post 11
>Below is a list of all the items found in the pictures. These links are NOT affiliate, I spent an enormous amount of time to provide you with the unaffiliated links.
>This subreddit and others shouldn't be focused on making money, it should be the exact opposite, just sharing our hobbies, enthusiasm, skills and to have open discussions without the aim being to profit.
>Screw this guy for trying to profit.
>Type | Name | Link
>Processor | Intel i7-4790k | Link
>Memory | Corsair Dominator Platinum 16GB | Link
>Storage | Samsung 850 Pro 256GB | Link
>Motherboard | ASUS ATX DDR3 1600 LGA 1150 | Link
>CPU Cooler | Corsair Hydro Series | Link
>Video Card | ASUS GTX 980 STRIX 4GB | Link
>Case | NZXT H440 | Link
>PSU | Corsair RM750 | Link
>PSU Sleeved Cables | Corsair Power Cable Kit | Link
>Type | Name | Link
>Front Intake | Noctua NF-F12 | Link
>CPU Cooler | Corsair SP120 | Link
>Rear Exhaust | Corsair AF140| Link
>Name | Link
>RGB Lights | Link
>White Lights | Link
>Type | Name | Link
>Monitors | Dell UltraSharp 23.8" | Link
>Mounts | VideoSecu Articulating Arm | Link
>Mouse | Logitech Wireless Performance Mouse | Link
>Mousepad | Zalman Accessory AMP1000 | Link
>Keyboard | Rapoo Black KX 5.8GHz | Link
>Phone | Motorola Moto X 16GB | Link
>Phone Stand | Cooler Master JAS | Link
>Speakers | Harman Kardon SoundSticks | Link
>Webcam | Logitech HD Pro Webcam | Link
>Headphones | Samsung LEVEL | Link
>Headphone Holder | Ikea Bjärnum Folding Hook | Link
>Strip for Holder | Command Mounting Refill Strips | Link
>White Videocard Backplate | Performix 11207 Plasti-Dip | Link
>RAM Light Bar | Corsair Dominator Platinum LightBar Kit | Link
>Type | Name | Link
>Desk | Euro Style Donald Desk | Link
>Chair | Embody Chair by Herman Miller | Link
>Clock | Modern Clocks | Link
>Lights | Philips 259982 | Link
>Wire Cover | Omnimount CMK | Link
>Triple Monitor Wallpapers
Addalock - (1 Piece ) Portable Door Lock, Travel Lock, AirBNB Lock, School Lockdown Lock https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00186URTY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_kdiyDbCS7G796
Buy this. It makes any door lock, it will keep him out.
Try a portable deadbolt, found here or here or here
3rd one is probably what you're looking for
Alternatively, you could get a wireless door alarm that has a keypad. Found here or here
The best part about getting a cheap alarm system is that if he opens the door it will fill the house with a deafening screeching noise. And when you get home, the topic will likely come up "oh we needed to get into your room for [insert innocent excuse here]" So if you choose this option you need to have a conversation beforehand establishing firm boundaries that under no circumstances can anyone go into your room
Addalock might work for you. Has decent reviews, although the common caveat seems to be "it only fits traditional doors, and only when the door and lock fit the frame perfectly" or similar.
I haven't really gifted anyone with security related items, but I did work with security for a while. This for door locks, and this for main windows. Bring a few wooden sticks for sliding windows. Make sure they are a bit thick and won't break/crack easily. I also recommend some legal self-defense items - check local laws.
Redditing at work is AWESOME
I think you are a unique snowflake in the blizzard of life. That is how awesome you are. I really think you need this because safety is important for everyone when traveling!
Try one of these. Addalock
Part of the emergency action plan at the office.
The other part involves spraying (and beating them into submission, or a pulp-whichever comes first) any attackers with a fire extinguisher.
Get one of these to try out, take it on vacation too. https://www.amazon.com/Rishon-Enterprises-Inc-I9889-Addalock/dp/B00186URTY/ref=sr_1_8?s=hardware&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1523880809&amp;sr=1-8&amp;keywords=door+lock&amp;dpID=41CIt4zWbuL&amp;preST=_SX300_QL70_&amp;dpSrc=srch
How about something thats designed to keep a door shut regardless of the type of door knob? Maybe something like this?
Just get one of these
Yes, common law does have a standard of "normal wear and tear". She can install a lock with permission, or if she is prepared to fix any holes and repaint. There are also options that are meant to be minimal/no damage, and intended for renters, like this: https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B00186URTY/ref=as_li_ss_tl?kbid=62548&slotNum=2&ie=UTF8&linkCode=gs2&linkId=66ba7aa8edf30b90374e2d2110961673&imprToken=LoXziaollJPO-ADyCnurBw&tag=sa09b4-20
Or one of these: https://smile.amazon.com/Addalock-Portable-Travel-AirBNB-Lockdown/dp/B00186URTY/
Even if a door doesn't have a fitted lock, you get extremely strong temporary locks like the Addalock that you can put on a door or remove in a few seconds.
I saw this recently on reddit and it would apply here too. It's a lock you can only open from the inside and can easily move to any door.
Look on Amazon. There's a little do-hickey that you can stick the door jamb that works as a lock.
Addalock - (1 Piece) The Original Portable Door Lock, Travel Lock, AirBNB Lock, School Lockdown Lock. PLEASE NOTE: The Genuine Addalock is exclusively sold worldwide only by Rishon Enterprises Inc. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00186URTY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_lPIPDbTBPWFXV
i'm assuming you can't ask your landlord to change the locks - say you lost a copy of your keys or something?
a quick google search turned up this - https://www.amazon.com/Addalock-Portable-Travel-AirBNB-Lockdown/dp/B00186URTY
not sure how well it works though
NTA. Talk to him in person. Get a travel door lock. https://www.amazon.com/Addalock-Portable-Travel-AirBNB-Lockdown/dp/B00186URTY/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?crid=11NGZH2U3UUQQ&amp;keywords=travel+door+lock&amp;qid=1556395520&amp;s=gateway&amp;sprefix=travel+door+l&amp;sr=8-3
They make different versions of these. I've always wanted to try one
add a lock when you are in the room. https://www.amazon.com/Rishon-Enterprises-Inc-I9889-Addalock/dp/B00186URTY/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&amp;ie=UTF8&amp;qid=1525495228&amp;sr=1-1&amp;keywords=addalock
I have one of these. It works as advertised. I've taken it on flights in my carry-on luggage without issue.
Hey OP, you could always try some of these options:
If you're the type that always carries a decent multi-tool, then here's something you could do if you really needed it:
Same concept as Add-A-Lock
Could you get something like this so that you can be safe? https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00186URTY/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o09_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 Since you use it on the inside your parents don't have to know.
I hope you will be OK.
Most people do - either those or picture hooks which don't require any tools at all. Anchors and screws are for much heavier installations, think a heavy mirror etc.
The maintenance guy came over today morning to fix something, so I just asked him. He said it is sheetrock. Is that the same as drywall? Do I still have studs placed at regular intervals behind that I should use to hang heavy stuff? Also, would you happen to know if I can use Monkey Hooks on sheetrock?
Always been my worst fear with mine, and 3 hang above my PC. I wouldn't even use nails, man. Try these. Haven't failed me yet and can hold their weight. See here.
Yup, yup! Each can hold over 50lbs each (x2).
I don't think this whole thing is over 100 LBS. Prior to hanging this I was using those same hooks to hang IKEA EXPEDITS for over a year. And that whole set up was heavier than this.
You can use picture hangers or monkey hooks. Both of these come with weight ratings, so get something rated to hold the weight of your picture or more.
Can you easily press a thumb tack into the wall? Then it is drywall. You can hammer a nail or push the hook straight into drywall. If the wall is plaster, first drill a hole slightly smaller than the nail or hook you are using, then gently hammer or push into the pre-drilled hole.
I have mine hung on the wall https://cl.ly/433ae036f4dd
Using these hooks. Easy to install and when you want to remove leaves a small hole https://www.amazon.com/Monkey-Hook-Picture-Hanger-Office/dp/B001KVMNPI/ref=sr_1_1_sspa
use gorilla hooks they hold a huge amount (especially if you use several spaced a few inches apart), and they only put a sight pinhole in the wall. You can cover it up when you leave with a bit of spackle in the pinhole.
I was going to say, basic stud finders are usually around $12. Some of them have AC voltage detection features built in as well so you don't electrocute yourself.
Really though, the easy way to do things is to buy some Monkey Hooks or equivalent. Then you can just say screw it and put most things where ever you want - as long as you don't hit a stud.
maybe you could use these somehow? if not for the fabric, they are awesome to have in a rental to hang heavier pictures and things.
At our old rental we had a tapestry hanging behind the bed and I just ran a thin rope through the top (and if your fabric doesn't already have a tunnel like curtains do you could easily fold it over and sew one) and then we just did two nails on each side and tied the tapestry up. you could use smaller panels of fabric to get that drapey effect. does this make any sense?
I hung several of these style of shelves in my gf's apartment using some of these http://www.monkeyhook.com/ without any problem. Plenty good enough to hold a picture or candles / knickknacks. Also leaves a much smaller hole.
Edit to add Amazon price of $10 for 30 instead of $30
Get it on Amazon now!
Found this in Amazon. EZ-Load Toilet Paper Holder https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001ONT90Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_4fFCxbDWPGY9G
Only 14.99 on Amazon.
I own one of that design. It would be much better without the top flat, which gets in the way and fails to make the holder any more aesthetically pleasing. It's not as if it hides the fact you have toilet paper there, and the flap serves no functional purpose.
It's otherwise nice, a cinch to replace a roll. $14 on Amazon.
Exactly. You're a little bitch. You talk shit behind a computer screen on an Internet forum. Who's the fucking nerd?
Why you mad bro? Why you mad? Why you mad bro? Why you so mad? Why you so herpy derpy derp derp?
Here you go. This will help you, me and everyone else. I anticipate you'll know how to use it. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002T44UGA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_HDeszbY35F9E6
Here's some rope, Find a sturdy girder or ceiling beam, tie the rope into a noose, stand on a chair, tie the other end to the girder, shove your head through the hole you made in the rope, kick the chair out from under you and pretend you're Spiderman. This advice brought to you free of charge for being a little bitch.
I want to commit sewer side
saved you some trouble
using a tv show to make a point about something irl.
It seems that your comment contains 1 or more links that are hard to tap for mobile users.
I will extend those so they're easier for our sausage fingers to click!
Here is link number 1 - Previous text "kys"
^Please ^PM ^/u/eganwall ^with ^issues ^or ^feedback! ^| ^Delete
TL;DR (at bottom)
Hide-A-Key (Amazon Link, basically the same thing as a Hide-A-Key, I'm just saying the name brand I think)
Costs under $5 and even if you NEVER lock yourself out they'll be the time where you're in a hurry and you hear that door shut and you'll be like "Fuck"' Then you'll spend 2 minutes top grabbing your Hide-A-Key and unlocking your car door.
Just be sure to check on your hide-a-key every now and then, pull it out and inspect it (preferably where people don't see you do this, I always kick my gym water bottle under my car and go to grab the bottle and secretly grab the hide-a-key, that way if someone sees me they aren't watching my slight of hand key snatch). You'll want to visibly inspect the key box as well as check for your keys (car key and house key is what I have) and make sure the keys still work. It's important to check because one time I checked the key box and the top had been busted and the keys had fallen out. So I was able to replace the box and the keys (still under $15).
Also make sure to put your keys inside a plastic bag if some sort the hide-a-key boxes are not completely water proof. I live where it gets pretty snowy on the roads and you don't want salt and sand getting all over your keys.
Get a Hide-A-Key (magnetic key box)
I got this underneath my car somewhere with a key and a $20 in it.
What about one of those key boxes? they are usually magnetic and are a small black box with a slide to put keys in but im sure you could fit a small stash in it. like this
I hide my key in a secret cubbie. I pretend like I am tying a shoe in case anyone is looking.
I recommend one of these http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003WXGLS2/ref=pd_aw_fbt_229_img_2/187-9808092-2397207?ie=UTF8&amp;refRID=11VFNCJSNYV73Z29EKMB
It's big enough to hold about a dozen j's or a one hitter or any thing small. Can hide it deep in your engine bay and It's magnetic so will go almost any where.
50lbs anchors? Nah, man. Uses these big bastards instead:
A cheap stud finder will help you locate the studs. if you can hit one stud it will be sufficient to support the TV. That being said these wall anchors are amazing if you can't find a stud. pop four of those in and it will hold the TV no problem!
Love these things. Used them to put up some Ikea shelves and they worked great. You can buy them on Amazon for fairly cheaply.
I agree with /u/niceflipflop that a couple of scale pics would be nice, but at a glance I'd definitely say you've got plaster walls. First thing's first, do you own or rent? That's going to make a big difference as to what advice I give as I've both owned and rented places with plaster walls.
If you rent, leave them the hell alone. Hell hath no fury like a rapidly deteriorating plaster wall and being a landlord myself who does all my own drywall/plaster you'll probably get charged a lot of money for those repairs. Stick to tape or 3M command strips and call it a day.
If you own the place, do yourself a favor and invest in a quality hammer drill. I bought a Dewalt because I knew I was going to abuse it, but for someone who is going to use it a few times a year, the model I linked will do fine. Some argue that you don't need a hammer drill to put a hole in masonry and they're wrong. Plus, it doubles as a standard, high power corded drill which is also an indispensable tool.
For interior (read: not masonry backed) walls, I've had good luck with these. They're low weight (~50 pounds or so) but great because you can avoid drilling and causing a mess like you have on your hands now. I never tried it, but I've heard putting a sturdy tape like duct tape can help prevent tear out as well. They also penetrate the slats and studs if you happen to hit one. This type of toggle fastener technically works, but I don't like them for plaster because of the size of hole you need to drill for them which generally causes more problems than it solves (1/2", if I remember). Definitely don't use anything like these as they'll just shred your plaster.
For exterior, structural, masonry walls, you need masonry screws and the 3/16" masonry bit to go with the 1/4" screws. If you have a hardware store near you, chances are they'll have them in packs far less than 100 and many stores sells Tapcons which often come with a bit included.
It seems daunting at first, drilling into a concrete/brick wall (I cut away an entire section to install a door. shudder) but once you get used to it it's just like mounting to any other wall surface. The thing you have to understand is just how thick your plaster is and subsequently how many threads you need to have inserted into the masonry to make it safe. Take this cross section for instance. If we look at the deepest your cabinet back is likely to be (.5") and add 1.5" for the plaster thickness that means the fastener has to penetrate 2" of material before it even hits the wall. The general rule is that for every length of fastener you have outside the functional threaded surface (the masonry wall), you need to have the same length of threads inside i.e. "A" has to equal "A". So, in this example, if you have 2" of material (.5" cabinet back and 1.5" plaster) you'd need ~4" masonry screws to safely hold your cabinet in place. For something as relatively light duty as a coat rack you could probably get away with 3.5" or so, but anything less and you're risking the fastener simply pulling out of the masonry walls, especially if your home is brick as the interior bricks are far softer than the exterior. Also I realize that not everyone is as tool hungry as I am, but an impact driver drives fasteners into masonry far better than a standard drill. You're more likely to strip them using a standard drill and frankly I use my impact more often than I do my drill, but we gutted our entire place so I understand not everyone wants a pile of tools.
These are cheaper, easier, more versitile, and require smaller holes. You can also get them in bulk for even cheaper. They are useful for hanging anything that requires more than a plastic anchor in drywall. They are tested to something like 150lb capacity each in 1/2" drywall. I use them for tv mounts, coat hooks, floating shelves, etc.
I used to hang TVs at work. We used some heavy duty toggle bolts to hold some heavy TVs in only drywall because the spacing didn't allow us to hit studs every time. These go up to 125lbs.
Better drywall anchor:
I would use snap toggle anchors at a minimum.
They're keys for the privacy locks on interior doors
u/natarenec I believe this is what you are looking for
Yeah, and some interior locks have keys like these kwikset keys.
We just bought a house where the previous owners had placed small keys on the top door frame outside every room with a lock. I think this is so they could easily get in a locked door in case there was an emergency or somebody slipped in the bathroom or something.
I put these types of keys on top of the door frames. Don't want someone locked in in trouble.
The keys I have look like this
I recently purchased a home and we updated all the locks so they have the same key. It was fairly simple. You can buy one of these kits, just make sure you get it for the right kind of lock. They are different depending on which brand of doorknob/deadbolt you have - there are only really Schlage and Kwikset options. The kit we bought is good for 6 locks - just keep in mind that each deadbolt and doorknob is a lock so potentially 2 per door.
I'm assuming this means you will have a different key for your electronic keypad lock but those may also be changeable.
Good call on the thrift stores! I'll start visiting those in my area! I will bug you again with one last question! I found this on amazon, but I can't quite understand what exactly comes with the kit... i.e. does it come with some regular driver pins, or is it just the key pins: https://www.amazon.ca/Prime-Line-Products-2402-Schlage-Re-Keying/dp/B008RIDQD0
When I bought my house I nearly spent hundreds to have it re-keyed... Then I found something like this:
$20... I think I spent $15. It was pretty easy, you just replace the Tumblr pins to the new code and bobs your uncle. Takes a few tries to get the hang of the little tool that holds everything together, but it's not too tough.
Here, like this is the sort of thing. They do have them for different brands, they are called rekey kits not repinning kits.
FYI: you can buy kits to rekey your own locks if you're looking to save some money. I moved into a house and used this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008RIDQD0/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1.
Took ~2 hours to change 5 locks. Way cheaper than swapping out 2 deadbolts and 3 knobs.
Good point! This is the only thing I would be concerned with, but otherwise mixing brands should be fine. I had all Schlage dumb locks already, so I picked the Schlage Connect and rekeyed it and all the dumb locks to the same Schlage key. There is some overlap with certain manufacturers, but for the most part each use a different key shape that is incompatible with the others.
Admittedly it was a bit frustrating with the first lock, but I rekeyed everything myself using this kit: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B008RIDQD0. Saved some cash as compared to having a locksmith do it and learned a new skill that may come in handy in the future.
You can secure the door with “defend security.” It’s really secure but not functional if you need to open the door from the outside. But very secure if you just need the door to stay locked.
This is what I use because my toddler could unlock the door and deadbolt. It was easy to install. Had a minor issue of the door being too snug but I eventually figured it out.
FYI, I am not at all knowledgeable in this area. Just letting you know what I did and what worked for me in my situation. Good luck!
For an apartment, I'm assuming a single point of entry (maybe a sliding door if on the ground floor, but those suck to secure)
Switch out the door screws, change the locks if you haven't already, and get a door reinforcement lock (like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Defender-Security-10827-Door-Reinforcement/dp/B00D2K367Y/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=Door+lock+latch&qid=1563762853&s=gateway&sr=8-4). You'll have the same door and everything, with nothing super tactical or whatever added on, but your doors will be way more secure. You could also put on some door alarms that ring when the door opens, if you don't have a security system in place.
also don't use security devices that cannot be deactivated easily and quickly from the inside when trying to escape a building. They shouldn't be difficult to use in a fire nor unable to deactivate from the outside if a kid were to activate it from the inside while you are outside,, and never use a chain/swinging/sliding lock for securely opening a door part way which can be broken and bypassed easily. Never use a locking device on an exterior doorway that requires a key to unlock it from the inside.
Also use this attached to the door knob or handle with a rubber band if you live in a very sketchy neighborhood. This way you have to hold the stop bar up to open the door, and if someone tries to force their way in after you unlock the door to peek out or answer, and the criminal tries to force the door open, if you drop the stop bar it will be a door stopper, and not fall off if the door is closed and attempted to be opened again.
Would this help? My friend swears by it
Defender Security U 10827 Door Reinforcement Lock – Add Extra, High Security to Your Home and Prevent Unauthorized Entry – 3” Stop, Aluminum Construction (Satin Nickel Finish) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D2K367Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Dwy1CbTQTWN65
Offer to cover the daycare installing one of those frame locks up high on the door? Something like this;
Or you could just get one of these for less than ten bucks. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00D2K367Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_82kLDb5XJP83Y7
I have them on my doors. They're really solid. I just use them at night, gives me a little more peace of mind. I live in a safe neighborhood, but one night a few years ago there was a crazy drugged-out guy breaking into homes with the families asleep inside, just looking for money I guess, but still. Obviously he got caught pretty quickly but with young kids at home I decided that I should reinforce my doors somehow.
I'm not sure if what you're talking about is different but the door jamb reinforcement I'm talking about does the same thing. No contractor needed. Here's an example
Door Armor MAX - Complete Door Reinforcement Set For Jamb, Frame, Strike Plate - DIY Home Door Security - Satin Nickel https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00E9ZGWNQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_HYWDDbNE9F40S
The way the frame is attached is very weak and trivial to defeat.
Most door reinforcement kits will make the jam much more resistant to kicking.
Also, "hammer head deadbolts" hold on to the frame so that they are much harder to kick in. They push two ball bearings into the strike plate hardware in order to grab on to the frame:
Goes over door security in far more detail than you want:
Something like this would be useful for distributing the force of impact over a larger area, and doesn't require heavy renovating to install.
Otherwise, one thing to keep in mind is that most modern modular homes have incredibly shitty pre framed doors.
The actual frame is completely separate from the house, only connected by a few screws here and there.
A good countersunk lagbolt every foot would resolve that problem pretty well. Because otherwise that shitty 3/4" pine is gonna shatter and shear right away... Or it's possible that the crappy screws will shear first, and your door will accompany your frame on its way to the floor. Lagbolts motherfucker, use em.
I was researching home security last night and many suggested this
I think that's what they are referring to. One of the reviews has a video to better see.
Reminds me of this fine product:
Maybe you should invest in one of these.
They won't stop your brother from being a brat, but you can rest assured your ice cream will be safe.
They make ice cream locks for pints!!
Here you go!
Ben & Jerry's Euphori-Lock Ice Cream Pint Lock
If your still looking, this is up on /r/bestofamazon
You might try snap toggles. I was an installer for a commercial company and we hung a lot of cabinets and heavy cubicle systems with these. I hung my 60" plasma tv with them as well. They are rated at several hundred pounds. Check the specs at the website. But if you don't want to have to locate the studs, this may be a solution for you.
Your salvation put them above the door frame or on a hook next to any door you want to lock and keep cats out of.
That's where I got the idea! I thought, wouldn't that look funny with a giant padlock...
I'm curious how long you had them up before they lost their stick... Did you remove them at all once set up, or reposition them from time to time?
The adhesive that comes with them is just a set of 3M command strips from what I understand (https://www.amazon.com/Command-Picture-Hanging-12-Pairs-17206-12ES/dp/B00LOQMCDM) so you can order replacements or just buy them at a local hardware store if needed.
3M Command strips will handle it. They have ones that can handle 10 pounds. I had my home made projector screen mounted on the wall using these.
Nobody pissed in my Apple Jacks. You are just being overly dramatic. In any event, buy this:
$19.95 is a bargain so that you can "feel comfortable again": http://www.amazon.com/Calslock-Portable-Door-Travel-Lock/dp/B00GMPFCNC
This might work. Maybe.
Good point, I've just avoided ulocks since then. The masterlock motorcycle cuffs seem to do the trick for me.
How old are you? Do you know what we are talking about? Here is one at walmart right now that I have on my car for $5. Another on Amazon.
At nearly any walmart there are MinuteKey or keyme stands that cost like $1-$3 dollars for key copies (that's for keys to open the outside of cars. for a copy of your key to start your car it just depends on your car for the price. I've had some that were $5 and some that were $99 but it's way cheaper than any tow or service to unlock the car at Roo) I just checked all of this is at the Walmarts around Manchester at the least and it takes literally 5 minutes to do this
Don't do any of that. Use a bunch of these. My full length mirror has been hanging for years.
Edit: not sure why I'm being downvoted. OP said she isn't handy, and doesn't know what any of that means. These command things work very well and are easy to use. I always use them for my pictures and mirrors.