Top products from r/woodworking

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Top comments that mention products on r/woodworking:

u/SoftwareMaven · 2 pointsr/woodworking

Woodworking with power tools revolves around the table saw. If you go that path, get the best one you possibly can. But used so your money goes father.

Woodworking with hand tools needs a few things:

  • A saw. A $30 Japanese saw with crosscut blade on one side and rip cut on the other is a great way to start if you aren't already an experienced sawyer. If you want to buy local, don't buy the crappy ones from Home Depot or Lowe's. You can get a good one from Woodcraft.
  • Chisels. Even the $10 six pack of chisels from Harbor Freight will work great. You have to sharpen a little more often, but it's much easier to get a keen edge.
  • A pounder. This can be a rubber mallet, a nylon mallet, or a stick. My first project was making a wooden mallet. I used a rubber mallet I already owned while making it.
  • A smoother. The best option is a bench plane (a used #4 Stanley, Record, or other pre-WWII plane is ideal; you can get fully restored planes on eBay for $75-90; you can buy a new Wood River at Woodcraft for under $150; or you can restore one (only do this if that process interests you). Stay away from new planes under $100). A secondary option is sandpaper. You will never match a plane's finish with sandpaper (literally glass-like), and some tasks, like stock removal, will be much more difficult or even impossible, but it is pretty cheap to get started.
  • A sharpener. On the cheap, you can use the "Scary Sharp" system using sandpaper and some thick glass to get started (I use a glass shelf I bought at Home Depot when I want to sharpen with sandpaper). For more money up front but less over time, you can use whetstones (water or oil) or diamond plates (I have a cheap $3 eBay-special 150 and 400 grit diamond plates to flatten my water stones and for major material removal, and I have two two-sided waterstones with 400/1000 and 4000/8000 grit for most sharpening). A $15 honing guide can make things much easier if you have coordination like me, but you probably want to spend a few minutes tweaking it to get best results.
  • Some marking/measuring tools. A marking gauge, a combination square (you will want to check and, if necessary, adjust it), a marking knife (a small pocket knife or utility knife works), and, maybe, a small tape measure. The tape measure gets used the least; most measurements are relative measurements made using the marking gauge.

    I'm a big believer in starting small and cheap and working my way up. With a few hand tools, you can get started for under $200 and have everything you need to make good quality stuff. The skills you learn with those tools will transfer to every project in the future, no matter how big. Fine joinery is the same, whether the boards are cut with a hand saw or a table saw, and you will never learn to read wood with a power jointer, planer and table saw like you will with a handsaw and bench plane.

    As you reach competency with these tools, you can decide how you want to expand your tools to achieve more. That may be more hand tools like a dovetail saw, additional planes, cabinet scrapers, etc, or it may be power tools with a table saw, band saw, dust collector, etc. Or it may be somewhere in the middle.

    Personally, I do this for relaxation, so a quiet shop and a face free of respirators and face shields is much better to me. Since I am in no hurry to finish projects, I use primarily hands tools (I have a few power tools from a previous life that I'll pull out on very rare occasions. I think often about selling them).

    If getting stuff done drives you, though, power tools are a great way to do that. It changes woodworking a little because it becomes a skill of setting machines up correctly (not a trivial skill!) to get the correct cut.

    The Wood Whisperer, who coined the phrase and, literally, wrote the book, Hybrid Woodworking, does a pretty good job blending hand and power tools. If I cared more about getting things done (and had the space and money to devote to it), that would be the path I would follow.
u/mrfyote · 2 pointsr/woodworking

hey OP, i'll try to answer a few questions for you if i can. i've got a handful of years of experience building custom cabinets, but am no doubt not the foremost on education in this field :)

working with wood is a lot different than working with steel, but it shares some common similarities, as i am sure you know already :)

in all simplicity there are 4 main components of a cabinet, i will use the following as reference in my reply:

a) the main cabinet or box.

b) the face frame

c) the back

d) any removable shelves/doors/etc

1) joinery

when building cabinets, etc i always start with the box

tools required: router, straight cut bit at T" or in this case 3/4", clamps, straight-edge, wood glue, compressor and brad nailer

most material used in cabinetry is usually 3/4" thick, so T=3/4"

once you have all your box material cut to size (there is an easier step you can do, i'll explain in a bit), you'll want to mark all side pieces at proper measurements of non-removable shelves at top of shelf - T. (this usually consist of a top and bottle, but in your multiple cases you'll have a few boxes with hard-fastened shelves in between)

the next step is cutting groves into your side panels for the non-removable shelves to set it.

set your free hand router up so it's cutting 1/2 the depth of T, in this case it will be 3/8". find out how far it is from the fence to the edge of your bit, practicing on a piece of scrap wouldn't hurt.

run the router along the fence cutting groves in each location.

you probably don't want the bottom of the cabinet to hit the floor, i always raise my bottoms so the bottom shelf is flush with the top of the face frame, so make sure to measure twice! :)

anyways once you've done this, you'll have a nice grove to fit your cross-shelves into

glue and nail accordingly.

as far as the intermediate up and down structures, such as the middle in, you don't require such groves.

ok moving right along, let's jump to face frame joining

tools required: miter saw, screw gun, pocket hole jig, wood glue, clamps

after you've got your box, you'll be ready to build your face frame

since you don't have a ton of money (who does?) to buy an expensive face frame joiner, Kreg has a nice pocket hole jig which i've used regularly for a while now.

cut and rip your face frame components to size, turn over and clamp the jig, drill your pocket holes.. once this is done for the outer-frame, clamp and screw them together using wood glue and some pocket hole screws, kreg provides a few in the kit to get started, and Lowe's will well the kit and the screws you'll need to complete your project.

once you've done the outer frame, move into the inner frame, etc and rinse & repeat.

it's best to do this on a flat level surface you can clamp the two pieces down so they won't move, but don't worry if you're a fraction off from being flush and sticking up a hair, you can fill that with putty and sand down to flush later.

once you've built your face frame and cabinet boxes, you're now ready to glue and nail them together.

2) what wood to use.

a) for cabinet boxes and shelves

if you're going to stain it, you can probably find a decent price on red oak at your local lumber yard, this should range from $40 to $50 a sheet, depending on area

if you're going to paint it or just don't care if you stain it and doesn't have to look fabulous, you can use a cheaper paint-grade Birch plywood, often available from $20 to $40 per sheet and location

b) face frame wood you can use some select grade pine (usually stains and works well even with red oak plywood, of if you find it cheap enough (improbable) some red oak which is usually really pricey)

3) structure

if you groove the main non-removable shelves like i suggested, you won't have a problem.

if this unit were being mounted to the wall you could add some extra "nailers" but that won't be necessary in your situation

i think i've gone over the basic questions you've asked so far. if i've missed something and if you have any questions on anything feel free to ask so i can elaborate more.

it's a really interesting project you have and i'm sure you'll have fun with it.

once again, feel free to reply to me and i will answer as best i can :)

EDIT: oops, i forgot to mention the backs :)

when you're routing the groves in for your shelves, you'll want to provide a grove for the back material as well.
this isn'tnecessary, but it will provide a clean look when viewing the finished piece from the side, as you won't see the 1/4" back material.

a simple 3/8" grove 3/16" deep the length of the sides will suffice

when you mount the back, you can use 1" or less brad nails or a pneumatic stapler if you have one available.

and mount the back BEFORE you mount the front face, frame, as mounting the back is a sure way to square up the unit

you'll mount 1 side first, then 1 bottom to square.

u/Uncle_Erik · 10 pointsr/woodworking

Don't just look at power tools.

Put some money into good hand tools. They can be faster and better than power tools. Really.

Power tools can take a lot of setup and test cuts. You can often go to hand tools and get the same work done in less time with better results. I'll take a chisel over a mortiser any day.

For a basic set of hand tools, I'd look for a block plane, a #4 and a #7. There are lots more, but those are the ones you'll use the most. Get a set of chisels and a mallet, too. Look into scrapers for finishing, too. Scraping is better than sanding - it gives a finer finish. I buy my hand tools from Lie-Nielsen. Not the cheapest, but they're incredibly well made and we have put them to the test. They hold up and I don't think I'll ever wear one out.

You'll probably want some power tools for large, ripping operations. You wouldn't want to cut a sheet of plywood by hand.

In the US, most use a tablesaw as a primary tool. In Europe, a bandsaw is more popular. It's great to have both, if possible. You'll also want a drill press - those are hugely useful for many tasks.

Also, I'd recommend picking up Tage Frid Teaches Woodworking and learning how to make all of the traditional joints. Those are far, far better than using pocket jigs with screws and other half-measures. There's a good reason why these joints have been used for hundreds of years. They're not necessarily difficult or take more time, so learn them and use them.

Next, pick up The Power of Limits and learn about getting proportions correct. If you want professional-looking results, you need to use Phi (or the ratio of 1:1.618) in your designs. If you're not familiar with Phi, read this book and search around the Internet for more information on it and sacred geometry.

That might sound far out and unrelated to woodwork, but it'll be a head trip when you discover that your body - and pretty much every living thing - is laid out with these ratios. You'll also find them in most professional objects when you measure them. People have been using Phi in design for a long time. You should, too.

Finally, pick up a book on wood finishing. This one is good. I tend to work with penetrating oils, like tung oil and boiled linseed oil. Those produce superb results.

u/LongUsername · 3 pointsr/woodworking

One of the biggest mistakes I see is trying to use too small of plane for the job. The bigger the boards, the bigger the plane.

Most people use a #4 Smooth plane as their starter plane. It's a good overall plane, but if you're trying to get something large flat it's workable but not great.

I usually use a #5 Jack or #7 Jointer plane. I've also replaced most of my irons and chipbreakers with Hocks. This is not a route to take if you don't find hand planing to be a "religious" experience.

Most people think that Hand tools are the "Cheap" way to do it. You can get a cheap #4 hand plane and it will work, but a good quality hand plane will be much more expensive new. See if you can find a Stanley Bailey #4 for a much better plane at a reasonable price. If you find you absolutely love hand planing, I've heard good things about Veritas and using my instructor's bronze Lie Nieson was an amazing experience.

Used planes are hit-and-miss if you don't know what you're looking for. Lots of them are in pretty poor shape, and then you're competing with collectors who want them for decoration. Stanley #4 planes are pretty common on the used market and pretty cheap but anything else gets harder to find quickly (except for Ebay, but then you can't inspect it yourself before buying so it's a gamble). I've found a couple of #5's in decent shape, and I'll occasionally run into something else, but usually too expensive or not in good shape.

Note that you could probably find a decent 4" bench power jointer on craigslist in most areas for less than $100 (usually Craftsman)

If you want to learn how to do lots of traditional woodworking stuff, I'd recommend picking up a copy of Tage Fried Teaches Woodworking. I'm pretty sure he covers planing stock, including winding sticks in there.

u/Moumar · 4 pointsr/woodworking
  1. Around the $200-250 mark is the sweet spot of good routers in my opinion. I haven't personally used it but this bosch gets very good reviews and costs $200. I personally have this Triton router. It really depends what features you need. The Bosch is a good general use router which will be able to tackle most tasks. The Triton is good if you intend to use in a router table because it has a built in lift system. Another nice thing about the triton is its basically a fixed based and plunge router in one so you dont have to change the bases. That's not really a big deal as changing bases isn't hard but it is nice.

  2. Pretty much all routers will come with a fence for straight cuts. Others than that jigs depend on what tasks you want to use the router for, I don't think there's any must haves. Most router jigs can be built out of offcuts and scraps so you can just make them as you need them.

  3. Yes, you can replace the functionality of a router with hand tools. It might not be practical though and will definitely cost you more money. A router basically replaces any joinery plane or moulding plane. You'd need a plough plane, rebate plane, router plane, and a half dozen moulding planes to replace the basic functions of a router, and more for specialty work. Before routers a wood worker would have around 50 to 60 different planes to do the jobs a router can do.

  4. Companies like Ryobi don't necessarily make crap tools but they're geared towards people doing DIY type work. They aren't made to the same level of quality as better brands. In my opinion for something like a router its worth getting something a bit better.

  5. Routers have a lot of functions, too many to list. You've covered the basic ones such as mouldings and joinery. Some others include inlay and template routing. They're a very versatile tool. I wouldn't worry too much about learning everything all at once. Once you start using it you'll learn how it works and what you can do with it.
u/With_which_I_will_no · 5 pointsr/woodworking
  1. Yes it is.

  2. Well my experience has shown me the finish turns out nicer if you have a perfectly smoother flat surface. The depth of the finish also seems to improve. I have done some experiments and I think you can tell the difference. I know I have heard people say you can’t improve the appearance beyond a certain grain of abrasive but once you do it… you will change your mind. The better the underlying surface the better the finish will look. I have also noticed better performance with adhesion on well prepared surfaces. I would rather apply many thin coats of finish to a perfectly flat surface. This is an outstanding book. It is the bible of finishing IMO. I would recommend it. I have read it 3 or 4 times.

  3. General finish Satin Arm-R-Seal

  4. I like the domino system. I have owned mine for 3 or 4 years I think. I use it all the time. I used to fart around with routers and templates guide bushings. I do cut real old school mortise and tenons sometimes still. These are generally timber frame stuff or very large furniture. As long as the size is right I don’t see much of drawback at all. Price is the only con I can see. It is an expensive tool. The domino and guerilla glue make an amazingly strong joint. The speed and ease of the domino is amazing.

    edit:fixed some spelling and added Bob.
u/arth33 · 2 pointsr/woodworking

I'm no pro, but here's my suggstion.

Marking and measuring are important. Get a knife of some sort. This marking knife is cheap and well regarded. Get a combination square (lot available at all sorts of price points). For a longer straight edge, you can use extruded aluminum or angle aluminum which is cheap, lightweight, and straight enough. Then learn to create a knife edge and a handsaw (either western push style, or japanese pull style) and you can cut wood accurately to size.

You're planes will then get you to flatten and surface your boards (you can use the aluminum as winding sticks). Lots of resources available for rehabbing planes. Then the next step is joints. For this, chisels and a comfortable mallet are great (and a rabbet plane if you can find/afford one). To make life easier, a coping saw and a drill (electric or brace and bit) can clear out waste for you. It makes life easier. But the key here is keeping your planes and chisels sharp. I don't know of a budget way to do this. I've got a few Ezelap diamond stones (coarse, fine and extra fine) that I use, but there are other methods as well (sandpaper on glass, waterstones, oil stones, tormeks). But sharpening is critical to handtool woodworking happiness. You might want a sharpening guide as well. The cheap ones work great (I'm not sure why these are so expensive. I think I paid $8 for mine). Then build one of these and you're all set for sharpening. Finally, you need stuff to stick together, so glue and glue applicators are worth looking into. I also use my cabinet scrapers quite a bit, but that's just me. They're cheap so I think everyone should have one.

After that, you can spend all sorts of money on other stuff as you progress. But most anything square can be built with this setup.

u/abnormal_human · 14 pointsr/woodworking

I recommend going slow with hand tools. Buy them one or two at a time, and then learn to use, sharpen, and care for those before buying more. This will help you get the best stuff for you while spending as little as possible. Let your projects guide your tool purchases.

Amazon isn't a great place to buy hand tools. Most people shop at either Lee Valley, Lie-Nielsen, or eBay for planes, chisels, saws, rasps, etc. That said, there's a surprising amount of stuff you'll need that's not the tools themselves. Personally, I wouldn't want to saddle myself with an inferior tool just to use a gift certificate.

Anyways. Stuff you SHOULD buy on amazon:

Hand Tools

u/AlfonsoTheX · 1 pointr/woodworking

I've bought several things from Amazon for the shop, and they're just the sorts of things that /u/abnormal_human suggests; Woodcraft also sells through Amazon, so you can get some decent hand tools that way, but that's not really "amazon" per se. For a recent birthday my wife went a little nuts on my Amazon wishlist and I received two waterstones, a lapping plate, and this shoulder plane - very extravagant gifts.

Amazon is also a pretty good place to shop for some woodworking machinery if you want to buy new and especially if you happen to have Amazon prime; free delivery on a drill press or a band saw can be kind of a big deal. Those are on my "dream shop" wish list...not going to happen any time soon, but if I can't dream on the Internet...where can I?

Another neat thing that I didn't know about until recently is camelcamelcamel which is an amazon price tracker. Companies adjust their retail price on amazon all the time, and you can set thresholds at which you would like to be notified. For example, here is the price history for the drill press I linked above. Helps to see if it's a good time to buy, or if you should maybe wait.

Have fun!

u/granworks · 5 pointsr/woodworking

Honestly, this question can be asked about any tool. Should a hobbyist buy cheap tools just to get started or spend more on quality tools, but buy fewer of them at first?

For the most part, I'm in the "buy quality tools" camp. I started out on the cheap tools (Skil, Ryobi, etc) and they made a lot of tasks harder than they needed to be. That is, a skilled craftsman could have gotten quality results from those tools but I certainly couldn't. I found that the quality of my work jumped dramatically when I switched to precision tools.

Now... in your case, none of three routers that you're referencing would be in the cheap crap territory, as far as I'm concerned. You'll do fine with any of them.

Some thoughts, though:

The Bosch 1617EVSPK is often considered the gold standard for mid sized routers. Many many woodworkers have that one and love it. You will absolutely not regret getting it.

The DeWalt DW618PK is a direct competitor to the Bosch and holds its own very well. Lots of very satisfied users of that model, too. Another that you'll definitely love.

The Hitachi models... are almost surely worth getting as well. I'll be honest, though -- they aren't talked about as much as either the Bosch or DeWalt.

One final thought: Depending on how you'll use a router, you might consider a "trim" router like the DeWalt DWP611PK. I've found that one to be notably easier to handle than my mid sized and it has handled everything I've thrown at it with aplomb. Really, the only downside is that it can only accept 1/4" shanks and most of my bits are 1/2". If I had more 1/4" bits then I'll likely use the DWP611PK almost exclusively when not on the router table.

u/wealy · 1 pointr/woodworking

I'm not saying you can't build floor to ceiling book shelves with out a table saw... but I can pretty confidently say I wouldn't be able to build quality shelves with out a table saw. Even a crappy bottom model contractor saw will help you do a lot of things.... If you're wondering check out (i think I got that typed in right) and look at Steve Ramsey's videos up till about 2010 when he upgraded his saw. it's a crappy craftsman contractor saw but he makes some pretty cool stuff with it.

as far as saws go - I have the Ridigid one with the cast iron top - I can't think of the numbers at the moment. the reddit community seems fickle on this saw, some weeks reddit loves it, other weeks reddit seems to think it lacks balls. I personally have had it ~ 6 months and I love it. before that, I had a contractor saw and avoided table sawing as much as I could. Now, I find excuses to use it. seriously, I go out of my way to cut stuff on the table saw that would have been much easier with some other method. The other day I made a fresh loaf of bread and actually had to talk myself out of putting it on my cross cut sled. It seemed like a good idea at the time.

for a router I have this Dewalt. I actually got it for Christmas this year and so far haven't had any problems other then finding dust collection that will attach to the plunge base, but it's a minor problem really and to be honest, I haven't looked very hard.

Also since you didn't mention it in your tools list - get a 4 foot level if you're going to make a book shelf out of sheet goods possibly an 8 foot (but that's excessive). you're going to want a really good straight edge to help break down your ply before you try to mill it through a table saw or anything else.

Also - and it can be pretty cheap - compressed air with at least a brad nailer. I've found compressed air to be perhaps the most convenient luxury to have in the shop - others here might disagree.

Hope all this helps.

u/jakkarth · 4 pointsr/woodworking

This is the router I use. Better dust collection in the plunge base than the Bosch, plus the hard case, and is otherwise pretty comparable.

The Skil is one I'd stay away from. They're not known for their quality, the plunge base feels pretty flimsy, it lacks some of the nicer features of the other routers. When you're going to be spinning high-speed steel at several tens of thousands of RPMs and that much HP, quality becomes a safety consideration.

I'd go with the DeWalt, but the Bosch is a good alternative if for some reason you don't want the DeWalt.

The easiest router table to build is a hole drilled through your workbench and a board clamped to it for a fence. Attach the fixed base underneath the surface pointing upwards and you're done. Anything nicer than that is optional. Norm's plans from New Yankee Workshop are a favorite, and a lot of people have similar designs available for free on the net. Dust collection and easy fence adjustment are the two key features in a table I'd say.

I've never joined the WWGA. Never saw a need. They have plans and stuff, but there are plenty of free plans for everything on the net, and I usually just make my own anyway. YMMV.

Good luck with your endeavours!

u/Ellistann · 5 pointsr/woodworking

This guys list is pretty much what I was going to say.

So for some recommendations:

I've restored an antique 1930s No 5. Bought it for 45, and it is best for those on a budget. Any pre WWII Stanley just needs some light restoration work and a reworking of the blade and it will do 20x better than a harbor freight plane and roughly same as modern Stanley sweethearts at 1/3 the cost. It may not be as good as woodriver or lie Nielsen, but it's a 1/4 or 1/6 the cost respectively.

Paul sellers recommends Aldi Chisels, I got Narex instead for an additional $20. I love them, and will only upgrade out of them once I get enough money to go for some veritas or lie Nielsen. I got a set of 4 with imperial measurements for $60ish. I'd put any extra money into sharpening systems than upgrading them.

I bought David Barron dovetail guides and the Japanese pull saws he reccomends. Gyokucho 372 Razor Saw Dotsuki Takebiki Saw. Look at Amazon for the narex chisels I reccomend and the 'people who bought this also bought' section and you'll find it easily. While there you can find some leather for stropping and the green compound you need with it. Also while looking at these, you'll see a reccomendations for the Stanley disposable knife and the replacement blades. This is what Paul sellers recommends, and it works well. Stays ridiculously sharp, and can be rehoned with little effort and the blade cheaply replaced once it becomes to much work top get the thing sharp. Cutting layout lines is much more precise and helps prevent tearout. I bought narex marking knife and love it. I don't mind trying to hone it every so often. Ditto the scratch awl.

Basically took around the Amazon other bought recommendations and you'll find a bunch of fairly cheap quality things to get you up and running.

u/OutsideTheSilo · 1 pointr/woodworking

Hey, I’ll try to offer up some knowledge.

For tools, I agree with another poster about figuring out what your next project is, then figure out if you need a new tool. I actually don’t have a table saw so I have to get creative with execution. My router and miter saws are my best friends. I also have a No. 4 LN smoothing plane that I use constantly. It’s extremely versatile and it’s very meditative (is that the right word here) and relaxing to use! I find myself reaching for it almost every project, but it may not be as useful on large outdoor projects. Some decent chisels are useful. Lastly, a good, solid work bench or work surface with a vise that doesn’t wobble is very helpful in woodworking.

For cutting tips, first make sure everything is square and aligned on your saws. Next, develop a consistent cutting and marking system so it becomes second nature and you become confident in your marks. My method for marking is that I use a pencil to mark my cut line. I mark in a way so I draw the line on the waste side and cut on the pencil mark. What I mean is that I know in my head to keep cutting slivers off until there is no pencil visible on the piece I’m cutting then I know I’m done.

For joinery techniques, this book below is really good. It discusses the cuts for almost every joint and very easy to follow and understand with plenty of diagrams. It’s definitely dated, especially when it talks about tools and glue, as it’s an older book, but the fundamentals of joinery haven’t changed.
I don’t know why it can be so expensive sometimes but find a cheap used copy online. This is definitely beginner friendly in my opinion.

I don’t have a lot of knowledge on outside wood, but I know cedar is good and have heard teak is as well.

u/pchess3 · 1 pointr/woodworking

Honestly a book would probably be best for a beginner. It is great for reference later on down the road as it is all kept nice and neat in one central location rather than bookmarking things and/or printing them out. I have this book and it is awesome. It has everything you want and even stuff you didn't know you wanted. Only 16 bucks NEW or even cheaper used. Then if you want JOINTS this one is pretty good.

NINJA EDIT: But yes, as noclevernickname said, the FAQ is a great place to start for those things as well!

u/coletain · 3 pointsr/woodworking

Hard to say for sure without knowing his shop, so you'd probably want to try to scope out any recommendations for specific stuff to see if he already has something similar before you buy.

A good suggestion that I think always works well for any budget is to go to a local hardwood dealer and just pick out a selection of interesting exotic lumber, any woodworker will always appreciate getting cool woods to use in their projects.

If you want to have some ideas for stocking stuffers / tools though I'll list some cool things that I think are not super common that I enjoy owning or make my life easier.

Tiny-T Pocket rule

6" precision t rule

A really nice miter gauge

Router setup bars

A nice marking knife

Marking gauge




Dozuki & Ryoba

Alexa (Alexa, what is 5 and 3/8 times 16... Alexa set reminder for 30 minutes to spray the second coat... Alexa order shop towels... etc, it's actually really useful, and it plays music too)

Shop apron

Quick sanding strips

Digital Angle Gauge

Digital Height Gauge

Anything from Woodpeckers is pretty much guaranteed to be great, albeit kinda pricey

u/DanielHeth · 1 pointr/woodworking

So for a mobile workbench, consider these

Otherwise what types of projects are you interested in? Home improvement, cabinetry, furniture, small art items... these help to determine the tools needed, layouts and such.
Environment has a play also. Does it get too cold or hot to work with doors open, ie is ac/heat needed.
You have a nicely dimensioned space and a great start.
A pitfall, don’t focus too much of your time/money on getting the perfect tools, etc. tools typically get added with each project.
If I were to recommend min needed tools... small hand tools like drill, sander, etc. power... minimum is a table saw. You can do without the miter saw if you have a good table saw with a decent enough miter gage.
Is weather is a factor than shop vac at bare minimum and next up would be good dust collection, etc.

u/joelav · 8 pointsr/woodworking

If you decide to go the hand tool route, money and space are a lot less of a concern. Rather than throw out hypotheticals, I'll give you some examples of tools you can actually buy right now:

Panel saw. Yeah, 10 bucks. It's actually a nice saw too. The only issue is the teeth cannot be sharpened - but it's 10 bucks. Use this for breaking down big stock into smaller stock

Back Saw. Also 10 bucks. Same as above. Disposable but cheap and will last a long time (it's disposable because the teeth have been hardened). This is for precision cross cuts and cutting tenons.

Dovetail/fine joinery saw. 25 bucks plus a 3 dollar xx slim double taper saw file to make it not suck.

Now for some planes. These may seem kind of pricey for "broke" status, but these aren't POS-get-you-by planes. These are lifetime tools. To get something comparable new, you are looking at 150.00 to 300.00 a piece. You can get better deals by bidding on some planes, but these are all "buy it now"

Stanley #4. Needs some love but that's a good user for 30 bucks.

Stanley #5 for 42$

Stanley #7. 90 bucks.

Pick up a 4 dollar card scraper too.


Narex $36. Use one of these and a block of wood to make yourself a router plane also.

Combination square 10 bucks.

A cordless drill of some sort and some bits (assuming you have one already)

70 bucks in 2x12's so you can make a knock down Nicholson style workbench which doesn't need vises. When you are done working, break it down and put it in the closet.

35 bucks for a pair of holdfasts from Gramercy

30 bucks worth of F style clamps from harbor freight will get you started there.

14 bucks to get sharp (not at all ideal but completely workable on a budget)

So for 410.00 or the price of a decent sander and miter saw, you can make literally anything in a small space with a small amount of localized dust. The trade off of course it time and labor.

Down the road you are definitely want to get some better saws, maybe some specialty planes, different chisels, some better measuring/marking equipment. But this will more than get you started.

u/Titus142 · 8 pointsr/woodworking

I make this comment a lot here, but nix the pine and get some hardwood. Poplar, maple, oak, whatever you can get. Don't be intimidated. It is actually easier to work than pine. Pine squished and tears. Tools need to be insanely sharp. This album I made demonstrates what I mean. You have a great start, just keep at it. Hardwood will be far less frustrating.

Also Tage Frid's book is an excellent guide. His hand cut dovetail method is spot on and simple using tools you most likely already have. It is also a great reference on all kinds of joinery done simply and effectively.

Also /u/screwikea has some good points about which way the tails go as well.

u/anotherisanother · 6 pointsr/woodworking

If you go hand tools, you can start with Rennaissance Woodworker’s minimum tool list. You can go with a lot of vintage tools to save money, but for fun I priced out all new tools of good quality. Many tools were recommended here. I've added a workbench and some reference books and videos too.


$169 Jack Plane Woodriver
$125 Hand Saw backless saw ~26″ in length
$28, $30, $35 - 1/4, 3/8, and 1″ chisels Ashley Isles MK2
$79 Back Saw Veritas Crosscut Carcasse
$12 Coping Saw Olson
$18 Marking Gauge Beech Marking Guage
$12 Square IRWIN Combination
$149 Some kind of sharpening set up (stones, sandpaper, whatever) Norton Waterstone Woodworker Package

$592 Subtotal


$13 Honing guide Eclipse style
$13 Marking knife Veritas
$22 Mallet Thor
$15 Book to learn from Essential Woodworker Book

$63 Subtotal


$27 Workbench plans Naked Woodworker
$123 Materials for Naked Woodworker, costs from Mike Siemsen
$35 Holdfasts Gramercy

$185 Subtotal



u/it2d · 1 pointr/woodworking

Thanks! I hope there was something helpful in that post.

I really think a diamond plate is overkill, at least to start off with. I got really frustrated with how not-flat my stones were, but I couldn't justify spending a huge amount of money on a flat piece of metal. So I went to Menard's and bought a 3/32 pane of glass. I figured that was thin enough that it would still flex, so I put it on top of a piece of 3/4 MDF, and then put the sandpaper on top of the whole thing. It worked really well, and the total cost was under $5. Thin glass is really cheap, apparently.

The Veritas honing guide is really nice; I definitely want to get it eventually. But in the mean time, I'm using this $10 guide from Woodcraft, and I'm getting good results with it.

Finally, you really don't need anything fancy for stropping. Literally a piece of MDF with some compound will work. You can use something like this, which costs $6.50.

So you really don't need to invest more than maybe $20 to get from where you are to the place where you can get much better results.

u/AbsoluterockHome · 2 pointsr/woodworking

Not 'cheap' but these are the cheapest one's I'd get. You won't regret having decent steel and they'll last you a lifetime (even if you 'upgrade' later).

Good luck.

If they're too expensive, I'd second the Narex stuff. I have a set of their mortising chisels...while they don't hold a candle to the Lie-Nielsen stuff...they do work well and are cheap. Personally, I'd rather have (1) 1/2" Lie Nielsen mortising chisel instead of the Narex set. Unfortunately you need at least 2-3 bench chisels.

Really, the most important thing with chisels (cheap and/or fancy) is to sharpen them regularly. . . yes it's a chore but your work will be better. Get good sharpening stones (shapton or a reputable waterstone set) and you'll be set with even the cheapest chisels (just have to sharpen a bit more often).

Happy New Year!

u/ZedHunter666 · 1 pointr/woodworking

Stay away from pallets please, cough up some money and some time (if you go to a box store) getting some okay dimensional lumber for projects.

If you decide to go the hand tool route, I've got all sorts of info and what not, I'd share. (Im a historical furniture maker's apprentice, I like to think I've got some decent knowledge) I've included a list here if thats the route you go.

Used this list for a couple posts, its about $200ish in all to get you started. This list uses chisels in lieu of say a router plane for dados and doesn't have an option for grooves but that's later down the road. I've got a big enthusiast list as well if you'd be interested.

> Crosscut/Ripsaw: Irwin Double Sided Pullsaw
Joinery Saw - I think this is the one Japanese saw I own? works okay
> Chisels
Marking Gauge
> Bevel Gauge
Mallet - I'd personally make one or buy a used one (of heavier wood, good grain and quality construction.) Amazon has some though.
> Combination square -does the work of several sizes of squares for the price of one -
A No 4 or 5 sized plane - I buy old Stanley's/Bailey's because they're great, and usually cheap for bench planes - Flea Market/Antique stores/ebay -$20 ish --- Amazon also sells new (I give no guarantee on quality however) -
> "Workbench" - temporary thing to hold pieces while you make dovetails -
Woodscrew clamp, used to clamp peice to workbench while chiseling waste -
> Other than clamps, glue, mortice gauge, etc, this is good enough to get you started making carcass (dovetailed) pieces of furniture, like a shoe cubby or bookshelf.
> Thats around $200 for getting you started. Add a mortise chisel and mortise gauge and you can start mortise and tenon work. Invest in pipe clamps when you reach a glue up point.

u/Snuffvieh · 2 pointsr/woodworking

In means of accuracy and size you probably can't beat the Dewalt DW745. I've had mine for 3 years and am still super happy with it. The guided fence is super easy to adjust and is always parallel to the fence.
The two downsides are the 20" rip capacity (24" would be perfect) and that the arbor is to short to use a dado stack.
There are enough work arounds for me to still be happy with the saw (router and circular saw) for dados i also often use a flat tooth saw blade and make more passes.

I bought a ryobi tableware initially and returned it after making 4 cuts... piece of shit!! Although I love my ryobi 18v one+ tools.
I bought the dewalt for 229 on sale at HD and love it!
EDIT: f****ed up formatting

u/KingfisherWW · 2 pointsr/woodworking

I would second the Stanley Sweetheart chisels as a good, affordable set of chisels. I think they perform great, feel good in the hand, and even look like a quality tool. Amazon has a great deal on the set of four most commonly used sizes.

u/Bufo_Stupefacio · 1 pointr/woodworking

Some basic information on joinery types. Most common for furniture building would probably be mitered joints, mortise and tenon, dovetailing, and dadoes - depending on the type of furniture.

If you wanted to learn more about joinery, I found this book to be good for beginners. Another good beginner book for all things woodworking, not just joinery, is this one

I just started making a few things last summer and getting some of the more expensive power tools. Feeling like you need to learn everything all at once can be intimidating - even for a med student, I imagine - but if you just look at each step individually it is much less daunting.

One more thing to help out a fellow beginner - this is the website of an awesome woodworking TV show that has free to download step by step plans. The show itself may or may not be available where you are at - I lucked out in that it is based in the town I live in - but the plans themselves are very helpful (and there is a modular bookcase plan you can alter to fit your needs).

edit - I forgot to answer your first question. More advanced woodworker do tend to avoid using nails or screws when avoidable because it joinery techniques are usually both stronger and more appealing to the eye. But, when just starting out, do what you can. To generalize, screws > nails in most (but not all) circumstances.

u/Exodus5000 · 1 pointr/woodworking

1/4, 1/2, 3/4 will get you started, you can fill in as you go. I bought my first 'real' set of chisels only a few months ago too, and I saved some money without sacrificing on quality by buying old Stanley chisels, you can find them online and sometimes at antique stores, but make sure you know what they're worth, antique stores like to charge an arm and a leg for broken tools. I was lucky to find a complete set at an antique store at a fair price.

Right now I'm lusting after the Veritas PM-V11 bench chisels:,41504. I'm doing mental gymnastics trying to convince myself how I might be able to justify their price.

When you get a good set of starter chisels I suggest you watch Paul Sellers' video on sharpening chisels: You can do it completely with sandpaper and a homemade strop rubbed with chromium oxide.

You can get enough chromium oxide to last you a lifetime for less than $15 on Amazon:

You'll rub that stuff on a homemade strop, you can me one for less than $5 or you can buy a $30 one that is quite literally the same thing at woodcraft. To make one just go to a craft store like Hobby Lobby and buy a bag of their cheap strips of leather (less than $5), you'll find them usually by where they sell moccasin making kits, not the bolts of fabric. You want the strips that are a little rougher. Then you'll just take it home and glue it to a piece of 2x4. Polishing your chisels on a leather strop primed with your buffing agent will make mirror chisels.

u/jellywerker · 3 pointsr/woodworking

Tage Frid Teaches Woodworking.

This three piece set (the last is frequently left out because it's mostly plans for his furniture, but there's excellent info in it as well) is a comprehensive guide to woodworking, in no-nonsense fashion, from the ground up. Tage goes over hand tools, sharpening, power tools, etc...

The guy was an editor at Fine Woodworking for years, as well as being a professional craftsman, as well as a teacher for many years. He knows his stuff, articulates it in a legible fashion, and doesn't get caught up in hand tool vs power tool trends, etc...

u/Windkull · 3 pointsr/woodworking

If I was starting from scratch I'd first get:

At $9.8 a clamp for 330lb pressure quick clamps they're great. Not quite as nice as the heavy duty Irwins because each squeeze doesn't move them as much but for the price I'd go with the Yost.

That vise is a pretty nice deal right now too.

Probably 2 packs of these but they'll take forever to arrive:

I'd get maybe 8 of these, and pipe from the home center:

Go to the home center for the current deals on the Bessey F style bar clamps, or HF specials, I don't think I can live with less than 8 of those.

And I'd say 6 of these:

Based on current pricing I'd go with the Yost, but my personal favorite are the Jets. After getting the hang of the Yosts I honestly like them more than K body Revos from Bessey because they tighten faster and harder. However they have a bit of slop and you have to kinda nudge them to get them to bite, which was frustrating the first time I used them.

And there I've just spent $800 for you :)

Depending on what you make, corner clamps, miter clamps, twin screw wood clamps, dovetail/fence/drill press clamps, toggle clamps for jigs, track clamps for track saw, C clamps, pocket hole clamps etc.

Edit: pricing this out made me notice I've spent well over $1k on clamps... That list is probably barely half my clamps not even...

u/Odjur · 4 pointsr/woodworking

My brother got me that book for last Christmas. It doesn't go over any particular topic in depth but it really provides a great overview of most woodworking topics. I particularly appreciated the sections on joinery and different wood types.

The next book I would add to your collection is Understanding Wood Finishing by Bob Flexner. It's a great read that provides useful information I just couldn't find online.

u/red0ak2 · 2 pointsr/woodworking

The new stanley sweethearts are also worth looking into IMO

Here are some other brands to look at:

Keep in mind that with higher priced chisels you're often paying for it being closer to set up out of the box, and quality of the steel in terms of holding and edge vs ease of sharpening.

Second candleww that Ashley Iles are really sweet. Watch how quickly Dave Barron sets one up for use:

Lastly, I've seen vintage chisels perform just as well as new premium chisels once they are restored. Brands like Butcher, Witherby, Berg, Stanley are great. There are lots of videos on restoring chisels out there, and it isn't hard to do.

u/ListenHereYouLittleS · 2 pointsr/woodworking

If the EVS goes out, the router runs at max speed. Which can still be used but scares the crap out of me for slightly larger bits. The best tried and true router is the porter cable here

If you don't need anything that powerful, this one works well also.

Mid power range, this works okay as well.

There are a few other options available. If you want to move it between a pantorouter and table, these will work well. If you want to use it for router table only, triton is a much better choice due to the built in router lift and above table bit change.

u/djjoshuad · 8 pointsr/woodworking

grab this one and all your concerns will be addressed. it has both fixed and plunge bases. 1/4 and 1/2 collets. plenty of power, and since the bases are removable it mounts great in a router lift or a non-lift table. The fixed base is even designed to work as a mini-lift, allowing adjustments through the table. I own three of these and love them.

edit: it also has quite a few available attachments, like dust collection, edge guides, etc. it's a great starter router and a great forever router, IMO.

u/lex0429 · 2 pointsr/woodworking

These are some good chisels not only to start with but to use until you really want to make the move up. You'll probably have to do some work to get them flat but it won't be that bad. Flatten the back and hone to a 30-degree micro bevel and you're ready to rock and roll.

For the money, you can't beat the Veritas dovetail saw. I'd suggest the 14tpi. I have that and the LN and they're both really good but the Veritas is a lot cheaper.

Good luck!

u/kur1j · 1 pointr/woodworking

Thanks for the info.

I feel I'm treading water here flip flopping back and forth.

So this is what I have come up with.



Stanley 16-791 Sweetheart 750 Series Socket Chisel Set, Brown, 4 - Piece

Included the 1/4, 1/2, 3/4 and 1", add the 3/8" in separate.

That or the Narex set of 4 and the 5/8 from LV.

For some reason the Narex set looks more "robust" as the hornbeam handle on the sweetheart seems fragile...but after looking around more everyone says the sweetheart chisels are better than the narex. They seem to be identical to the ones on LV as on amazon for 30% less.

u/Thirdrawn · 0 pointsr/woodworking

The Samurai Carpenter has an explanation of these saws that I've found helpful. He also uses them frequently in his YouTube videos so there is a ton of inspiration.

I recently saw a video from Jonathan Katz-Moses with some helpful tips.

Here's the saw I bought. It does rip cuts and cross cuts and has a replaceable blade. It's also a manageable enough size that I can easily control it. I bought a (more expensive) saw for a friend of mine who admired my saw and enjoyed using it and his saw has a longer handle with a more traditional wrapped handle. I prefer my smaller saw. I think my friend's saw is basically wall art at this point.

Gyokucho Razorsaw Ryoba Saw 180mm No. 291

These are great saws. I just got a lot of practice with mine building a new workbench. They take some practice so get one and just start cutting stuff. They cut remarkably fast and easy.

u/SwellsInMoisture · 2 pointsr/woodworking

Are you working with hand tools or power tools, primarily? Or, I should say, what will you be using on this bench?

For hand tools, you typically want a bench much lower, allowing you to keep your arms locked out and get the power from your body weight and legs. The rule of thumb is "the rule of your thumb." Stand with your arms at your sides. Stick your thumb straight forward. This is the height of your table. 30.5" for me.

For power tools, you don't have to worry about that sort of thing, and instead should have the workpiece closer to you for better visibility. 36" height is common.

Before you buy or build anything, do yourself a favor and pick up Chris Schwarz's Workbenches book. You're pretty much describing the English workbench in your post, and Chris goes into it in great detail, along with accompanying build plans.

u/Skorro · 2 pointsr/woodworking

Also if you are interested in learning what each type of finish does and how it works, the best book you could buy is Understanding Wood Finishing.

Bob Flexner is amazing, he writes pretty much all the articles on finishing for Popular Woodworking. This book is probably the most enlightening woodworking book I have read. Prior to reading it I always found finishing to be a bit of mystery and definitely intimidating, not anymore.

u/mrcc912 · 3 pointsr/woodworking

I bought this set of Narex chisels off amazon when I first started getting into wood working and they have been great for a couple of years now. They sharpen up really well and they are perfectly strong. I would definitely recommend to beginners even if they are in the pricier end of beginners sets.

*Editted for formatting the link

u/az_liberal_geek · 1 pointr/woodworking

Yes. DeWalt makes very nice routers and this is a very reasonable mid-size model. I'm going to give two other recommendations, though.

For mid-sized routers, you can't go wrong with the Bosh 1617EVSPK. It is a solid workhorse and wins more than a few comparison tests:

Honestly, though, I'd skip a mid-size router if I was getting my first router. The new compacts are extremely versatile and I find myself reaching for mine most of the time. It's gotten to the point that I use my router table for router table type stuff and my compact for everything else. My mid-size just sits there, except for rare occasions.

The best compact router I've found is the DeWalt DWP611PK. I've had it for about a year and it's been my go-to router ever since:

u/ed_merckx · 4 pointsr/woodworking

This set of Stanley Sweetheart chisels is on sale for $83 which is a really good deal. Normally the chisels run around $30 per unit at a place like rockler. I'd put them a step above chisels like Narex (which aren't "bad" by any shot) but still below a brand like Ashley Isles or Pfeil.

Great set if you're looking to upgrade from something like harbor freight chisels.

u/tarasoga · 2 pointsr/woodworking

Relax, things are way better than you fear. Firstly, most finishes are safe once they are cured. As another poster noted, the simplest and most clearly safe choice is what they put on cutting boards, e.g.

For paint, there are lots of paints that are non-toxic and are made for kids. Safe as in lick the brush clean - safe. If the child chews off some flakes, that's even less of a dose than swallowing it wet.

u/CaIzone · 1 pointr/woodworking

Let me start by saying that this would be the bare minimum. This is assuming that you have all the experience to use these tools effectively as someone who has the appropriate skill and knows to do things like not bear down on a saw when cutting, keeping everything square, how to mill boards by hand, how to not kill sandpaper in a few strokes, how to tune and sharpen a hand plane, ETC.

2x$8.69Vise grips Two vise grip clamps. Clamps can be universally adjusted and clamped in almost any direction with some quick thinking. One is never enough.

$9.99Cheap set of chisels Everyone needs a chisel. These will be made from a milder steel, but it's better than nothing.

$22.00Generic ryoba saw A ryoba saw will double for crosscuts and ripcuts. They go as far as you can take them provided you treat them right.

$18.62Bench Plane You need to be able to take down material in terms of thickness. A simple bench plane will due for now.

$20.61Block Plane A block plane will help slightly with end grain smoothing where the bench plane cannot.

$3.47Bundled Sandpaper You need to finish your products somehow. I would get a generic bundle of sandpaper and use it sparingly and tenderly.

$12.85Square Keeping things square is vital.

$6.79Mallet Hammering your chisels is going to be very important since you cannot use a 2x4 reliably.

$3.47Wood Glue Need to be able to glue things together.

$11.80A set of card scrapers Remove material smoother and faster. You don't want to waste sandpaper if you don't have to, and these are quite versatile.

$8.06A bastard file A bastard file will do for now when it comes to heavier shaping and sharpening your card scrapers.

$15.92A small drill viseKeeping something secure in place is very important. A small vise will accommodate small and narrow pieces of lumber and can be bolted to a bench.

$3.97Assorted finer sandpapers You need something to keep your chisels constantly sharp, especially when it is such a mild steel as a set of 9.99 chisels.

$15.59Wipe on polyurethane You need to be able to finish your products somehow.

Comes to $170.52 I would use the rest to make a bench and two sawhorses out of some 2x4's.

u/LikeTotesObvi · 2 pointsr/woodworking

I highly recommend "The Workbench Design Book: The Art & Philosophy of Building Better Benches". It's a really fun and enjoyable read, even if you're not particularly interested in building a workbench. He's such an interesting thinker and researcher and this is probably his best work so far.

u/GIVES_SOLID_ADVICE · 1 pointr/woodworking

good advice in this thread, but I can't believe no one mentioned the mack daddy.

I'm sure you've seen it on youtube, so its well liked. The replacement blades aren't very expensive so no need to send it around the world to get sharpened. It really is a great saw. I learned on sharp western Disston saws, but the Japanese pull saw came as second nature once I let the saw do the work.

Thats a good all around saw, but you might prefer the Dozuki (in related items) for dovetails and spline cuts.

u/A_Texan_Redditor · 3 pointsr/woodworking

Hey OP depending on how much cash you got/What you want to make I can recommend you get this router here.

It has sufficient power to handle most bits and has a super convenient height adjustment that can be used over the table with a hex key. It also comes with two bases (plunge and fixed) so you can just yank it out whenever you need it and not have to unscrew it.

Now if you want something that will handle anything you throw at it you can get one of those 3 1/4 HP monsters which will handle every massive 3 1/2 inch raised panel bits with ease.

Some good routers are:

OR if you got the cash you can buy Festools best router:

As far as insert plates are concerned Kreg makes the for several routers our you can get them from the manufactures of the router themselves.

u/schneems · 2 pointsr/woodworking

I think the one Sellers mentions cost like $15 US for a 4 pack which is a a bit crazy. I saw the pack you linked and started drooling. I love the look, and that it comes with leather carrying case. I don't have a problem paying $70 for quality, however I would be more comfortable if I understood why they cost $40 more than something like this pack

Basically am I getting a nicer tool, or just a nicer look and brand name?

u/blue_chalk · 3 pointsr/woodworking

If he is going to be using a table saw, one a GRR-ripper would be a good gift. I've been wanting one, but never pulled the trigger. This helps cut thin pieces on the table saw. Also generally safer than normal push sticks.

Another thing to go with many power tools is a magnetic feather block. This also helps keep things safe on power tools. It keep wood tight to a reference surface, helping accuracy and safety.

u/cam_robert · 1 pointr/woodworking

I was going to use this one. Maybe you're right about poly being a much better choice. I have heard great things about arm-r-seal. would it be okay to use on oak though? I mean, would I need to use wood filler or anything? I bought this counterop from IKEA.

Thanks so much for helping me out :)

u/minotaurohomunculus · 3 pointsr/woodworking

The first thing you're going to find on the internet is this fetishism of sharpening chisels. The Youtube rabbit hole on sharpening is deep.

What I found, and you might find something else you like better, is actually fairly simple, easy, and low cost to setup. 1) Scary Sharp --which is just sharpening your tools on a flat surface (glass, marble, MDF, jointer or table saw feed table) and graduating levels of taped down sandpaper: The second thing that is wildly useful is a $12 sharpening guide:

There are kits for hundreds of dollars involving stones and guides and apparati and I've used some of my friends' stones and setups and they work --probably as well as Scary Sharp and a guide. But, $12 for a guide and a few dollars for sandpaper is low barrier to entry and works and is pretty fast. (The soles of hand planes may take a bit longer if you're planning to do those the same day.)

Good luck on whatever you choose.

u/joem569 · 2 pointsr/woodworking

With regards to making it more safe, you could get something like the Grripper. It's a pushblock that makes cutting smaller and thinner pieces a lot safer on the table saw. I just got one for myself, and I love it.

You can also use it with a router table, a band saw and a huge number of other ways too. It's a nice little tool.

u/eadsm · 1 pointr/woodworking

This book is a classic. It's my favorite. For all the up to date techniques as well as traditional methods of work, books put out by the Taunton Press are the best. They also publish Fine Woodworking, the best periodical on woodworking. If I could choose a gift certificate for me, it would be for Woodcraft or Rockler.

u/ExBlizzardFanboy · 1 pointr/woodworking

I have a cheap table saw, and I am basically scared of it. I feel that if I had a griper that I might not be. I bought this shitty saw last year, and have only used it twice since, but I need it again for another project coming up. A garden bo, if you are interested. I currently only have 1 cheap plastic push stick that came with the saw, which by itself isn't even sufficient. So, I kind of need to buy another push stick regardless.

So, what do you guys think of it? Is it worth $60? Does it work well. Is it safer? Is there something better?

Here is a link to it,

Here is the wood whisperer's video of it,

u/PawnE4Checkmate · 1 pointr/woodworking

I have a cheap table saw, and I am basically scared of it. I feel that if I had a griper that I might not be. I bought this shitty saw last year, and have only used it twice since, but I need it again for another project coming up. A garden bo, if you are interested. I currently only have 1 cheap plastic push stick that came with the saw, which by itself isn't even sufficient. So, I kind of need to buy another push stick regardless.

So, what do you guys think of it? Is it worth $60? Does it work well. Is it safer? Is there something better?

Here is a link to it,

Here is the wood whisperer's video of it,

u/CrownBee · 2 pointsr/woodworking

Depending on your area, rift sawn white oak can be quite expensive. I'd highly reccomend making your first bench out of southern yellow pine / doug fir, depending on what region you are in. It will often end up 1/2 price or less. If you really like the look of the oak, or can pick it up super cheap, it will make a great bench.

Even if you decide to make your bench out of SYP / DF, oak is a great accent wood for your vice chop (if you go for a leg vice) deadman, or endcaps. I think the Paul Sellers bench as designed doesn't use any of those features, so maybe that's not super useful for you. Check out Chris Shwarz's workbench book for more ideas and a comprehensive review of woods and their use for workbenches.

u/InsuredByBeretta · 1 pointr/woodworking

I just bought a set of Narex chisels and as far as I understand, I'll need to sharpen them before use (I'm completely new to woodworking, sorry!).

I realize I could probably piece together a much cheaper version from a hardware store, but if this set is great to use out of the box, I'd rather spend the extra few bucks for a perfect surface and a guide as well.

u/Ripudio · 2 pointsr/woodworking

Definitely buy tools based on the project(s) you have to do, but I think a good start would include:

Hand planer (Vintage Stanley Bailey is ideal)

A few chisels (Narex are a good option if you're on a budget)

Combination Square

Marking Knife (Stanley makes one that Paul Sellers recommends: Amazon)

Marking/Mortising Gauge(s): I think Crown is the only company making reliable ones with pins vs. the more common cutting disc.

Saw: I got this to start, its sharp as all heck, and has a crosscut and rip edge Japanese Ryoba

u/chippedbeefontoast · 2 pointsr/woodworking

You can get a really nice contractor table saw for around $500. I have this one and I love it. Or a radial arm saw like this. There a a bunch of good brands out there. Just make sure you get a 12 inch blade.

u/eyesonlybob · 1 pointr/woodworking

which bosch are you referring to? Why don't you like the of1400? Before I was considering it, I had pretty much narrowed things down to this dewalt.

I have no interest in a festool router table. what makes festool routers not work well in other tables? I'm pretty much ready to pull the trigger on buying the TS55. If I'm going with a festool dust extractor it seemed like a good idea to also get the of1400 for dust collection purposes.

u/onesojourner · 1 pointr/woodworking

Craftsman Table Saw Model # $150

Shop Fox model #G8826 fence system $275

Freud P410 Premier Fusion 10-Inch 40 Tooth Hi-ATB General Purpose Saw Blade $80

Wilton 15” drill press $100

Parks 12” planer $600 This requires a little road trip

Atlas 6” jointer $150 Model #

Delta 10” bandsaw, Powerkraft radial arm saw and Rockwell contractor table saw $200
I would resell one of the tablesaws Just pick the nicest one and sell the other.

Oneway Multi Gauge $97 This is for setting the jointer perfectly and the dial indicator can be removed to make planer setting jig as described by Bob Vaughan (see youtube) or fine woodworking 107.

Angle block set for machine setup $30

Bessey Bar Clamps $14x3 plus maybe $10x3 for bars Say $75 total

Stanley sweetheart chisel set of 4 $80

This leaves $243 left for misc things like drill bits, planer/jointer knives or sharpening F style clamps a cordless drill, random orbit sander, sand paper ect.

u/InsidiousToilet · 1 pointr/woodworking

Great info, I appreciate it greatly! I've seen a few of Paul Sellers' videos on sharpening, so I'm not sure why they're called "scary sharpening", but it does look like it takes quite a bit of time, but I've got plenty of that while my wife and children are out of the country visiting relatives. I don't have an Aldi nearby, and they don't seem to sell from their web site, so I think I may be out of luck on those famous chisels. Every time I try to search for them online, I end up with links like this to Amazon, even when just looking for singles.

u/88bcdev · 1 pointr/woodworking

Did you mean to post a picture of the saw?

A rubber mallet is no good for chopping mortises (all of the energy is lost to recoil). You'll want to get a wooden chisel mallet or a dead blow mallet.

You will have to sharpen your chisels. There are different methods to sharpen a chisel. You won't ever find a consensus on which way is best. If you want a cheap way to start, google "scary sharp". You'll use sandpaper and a flat surface like a piece of granite or plate glass. It works just as well as any other method, but it's not a long term solution. I use diamond whetstones and a leather strop with buffing compound to sharpen. You can buy a jig (like this one to help you sharpen the chisel or freehand sharpen. You may want to buy a protractor gauge to check your angle, which should be around 30 degrees. You can find many Youtube tutorials on this. Paul Sellers is a popular teacher of freehand chisel sharpening.

u/jdecock · 2 pointsr/woodworking

If you're looking for workbench info, in addition to the Paul Sellers video that has been linked, I highly recommend Chris Schwarz's book on workbenches. I linked to the copy on Amazon, but my local library has it so maybe check yours as well.

He talks about a ton of different aspects of workbenches and runs down the pros/cons to a lot of different types of vises and designs. I found it super interesting.

u/tigermaple · 1 pointr/woodworking

Nothing wrong with books! I see someone has already said, "Forget it just go to YouTube", but I think there's something to be said for reading a book too.

Peter Korn's book, Woodworking Basics, is a pretty good, project oriented overview including both hand tool and machine basics- it was kind of the semi-required text my first semester at community college.

Tage Frid Teaches Woodworking is the classic that comes to mind.

u/magespooks · 8 pointsr/woodworking

I agree with most of what has been suggested here. A microjig Gripper, a better saw blade, the one that comes with the saw is crap. A dado set. He can make push sticks, I like the ones I made better than the store bought. You could also get him a gift card to a hardwood store or HD/Lowes so he can buy lumber or anything else he needs.

u/p2p_editor · 4 pointsr/woodworking

Heh. Just send him here. :)

What he needs and how he ought to set it up depends very strongly on what kind of woodworking he wants to do (cabinetry? furniture? chip-carving? bowl turning? hand tools vs. power tools?), and simple personal preference.

Without knowing any of that, it's hard to give much good advice. But if you're looking for a good book that will serve any beginner, you could get him Chris Schwartz' book on building your own workbench:

It's something of a rite of passage for every woodworker to start out building their own bench, and that book ought to give your man all the information he needs to figure out what kind of bench is going to work for him.

u/riffraff98 · 1 pointr/woodworking

I have a set of DMTs. They're OK. I've had em for about 4 years and the super fine is starting to wear out.

If I had to do it again I'd get this: ( I have the king 6000 grit and it's awesome)

As well as one of these:

The second one I realize is finer grit than a norton, but diamond stones with good lubrication tend to cut way faster than a norton stone.

Also, it will only set you back like $30 for the pair.

u/SeanMWalker · 3 pointsr/woodworking

I am currently reading this book and am loving it so far.

Understanding Wood Finishing - Bob Flexner

I also found a pretty sweet source for furniture related books on amazon as well. Search this persons used books. I ordered about 6 books from them the other night.

u/WhoPutDatPlanetThere · 1 pointr/woodworking

I'm looking to get into woodworking and just when I thought I had my starter tools picked out I got distracted! I have been looking at the Japanese style tools and I am mainly curious about if it would be possible to find a set of three or four general purpose ones for a price that is not so intimidating of an entry fee compared to all the premium handmade ones. I was planning on getting this 4 piece Narex set ..... I wouldn't want to go over $100 for a set and would be much more comfortable around $50 similar to the Narex ones. Since it is just my curiosity getting the better of me I would also be okay with getting a single Japanese chisel in a commonly used size with the intention of experimenting with the style.


I would also appreciate some small beginner project ideas! Don't have a ton of room for random chairs and all that nonsense to lay around so something small that helps me practice. I am interested in connecting wood with joins and dowels and using as few nails as possible.

u/viper0 · 3 pointsr/woodworking

There is a LOT of info in this sub on cutting board finishes / glue. A quick search should return what you're looking for. That being said, I'll give you what I use here:

Glue - Titebond III. It's water proof (not resistant).

Finish - A mixture of beeswax and mineral oil. It needs to be re-applied occasionally, but it's super easy for beginners. Stay away from salad bowl finishes until you've made a few boards and want to try something a little more durable.

Woods - Hard maple and walnut are the easiest, but anything tight grained will work. Stay away from open grain woods (oak, etc.).

u/Gurneydragger · 1 pointr/woodworking

You could build a nice, sturdy, useful bench from lumber at Lowes for less than those benches. Plus you'll actually will do woodwork when you build it! Do some research and look around a little. Remember you are building a fixture to hold pieces of wood and to clamp wood. When you decide to build a split top roubo out of southern yellow pine, post pics!

This guys workbench is all you need, I would have wanted the legs flush to the table top.

I am currently in the research and development phase of my bench building right now. This book has been a great resource to set you thinking in the right direction.

u/manifolded · 1 pointr/woodworking

If anyone was curious about some of the things Paul was using (especially if you had in mind that it might be nice to do things yourself, and on the cheap), he says in one of his other videos that the plates were EZ-lap plates. You can spend a significant amount of money on those plates, or you can some smaller ones off of ebay for pretty cheap:

u/mounttod · 1 pointr/woodworking

Do you know if he typically buys higher end tools or mid range? I ask because he probably already has something similar but a Starrett Square would be an awesome gift. I don't own one but would be trilled if someone randomly gave me one.

You could go with either the 13A Double Square or the 6" combination square. Both are around $70 and he would probably use it every project.

I'll also never go without one of these saw in my shop. Ryoba Japanese pull saw

Does he use hand planes? Kinda expensive but this plane is seeing lots of use in my shop now: Rabbet Block Plane

u/HoosierCAD · 1 pointr/woodworking

Great thanks. So I'll probably pull the trigger on the Veritas Carcass saw....

For the Narex chisels, I am assuming these will work.

However, also read that Lee Valley is a good place to grab them....and they are $62 for a set of 4. :D
Thanks for the advice

u/aerofly0610 · 1 pointr/woodworking

Thanks for asking the question because I was wondering about decent chisels on a budget. I'll probably pick up based on the recommendations. Hope the BF loves his gift whatever you get!

u/magicfap · 6 pointsr/woodworking

Alright I'll bite. Hand tool shop

Narex Chisels 48.99

stanley Jack plane 59.99

stanley Smoother 45.00

Stanley low angle Block plane 31.25

HF combo square 6.99

HF Mallet 5.99

Stanley jointer 150

Sharpening stone (water) 33

Panel saw 1 (cross) 19.50

Panel saw 2 (rip) 16.99

Marking gage 20

Dovetail saw 26.82

Vise 26.46

marking knife 9
Total cost so far: 500.97
shipping from ebay depends on where you are but shouldn't be more than $60 so we factor that in:

build your own bench (not going to take the time to go into details but it shouldn't cost more than $500 for materials
so now you have

999.03 left to get whever else you want (more marking gages? switch some of the above for better stuff? spoke shave? cabinet scraper? router plane? brace and bit?)

You could get better prices for the ebay stuff above if you were patient that's just what's out there right now. the above is more than enough to do 90% of handtool projects though. Just watch those compound curves ;)

u/AMillionMonkeys · 1 pointr/woodworking

Chris Schwarz, who's one of the contemporary popularizers of hand tool woodworking, wrote a book where he tried to figure out the minimal kit he needed: The Anarchist's Tool Chest. He also wrote a popular book about benches which contains instructions for two different models. You'll need a decent bench and one of those is a sensible first project if you're really committed. If you don't want to make something that big to start off with the book has lots of good info on what features a bench needs so you can modify what you already have.

u/binarycow · 5 pointsr/woodworking

I agree with the other poster. A router would be great. I'm also beginning at this, and I have a miter saw, table saw, trim router, and circular saw. While the miter saw is fast and easy for crosscuts, it only does crosscuts. A table saw will do crosscuts and rip cuts. The only place where a table saw sucks at crosscuts is long lumber.

A router, however, can be used for edge profiles, dados, slots, rabbets, mortises, etc. A table saw can do dados and rabbets.... But if the board is too long, it can't do dados, and rabbets might be unruly. The only power tool you have that can do mortises is a drill, but even that would be better with a drill press.

I suggest a router. The Bosch 161EVSPK is highly recommended and can be used for basically anything you would throw at it as a new woodworker. It comes in at 220$ but includes both the plunge base and the fixed base. The fixed base can easily be installed in a router table (either shop made or purchased) and you can do depth adjustment from above the table.

u/makes_things · 2 pointsr/woodworking

A bit over $150 (currently 189 less 25 for the holiday promotion), but if he needs a good router I've loved this set. Tons of things that you can use a router for in the shop and this one has lots of accessories that cheaper ones lack like edge guides and dust collection.

u/mongooseondaloose · 10 pointsr/woodworking

These sound like an excellent resource. Thanks for elaborating, OP.

Here's a link to the Amazon page for anyone curious.

u/zendawg · 1 pointr/woodworking

I bought a buck Bros from HF for $10 and it actually works pretty good after flattening and sharpening. On the same day I went to a few pawn shops and got a No.4 and a 78 for $30 each. I recently got a 45 off of ebay for $45 and 12 cutters off of craigslist for $35. I suggest the re conditioning route. You need to be able to take it apart and put it back together in order to really see how it works. IMO.

I am a newb too but if you are going to get into this hobby with hand tools you are going to have to learn to hone and sharpen your chisels and irons. Most planes and chisels are not sharpened and or flattened. I have Wood River chisels (Wood Craft) and they are pretty flat but sharp, not at all.

I suggest getting a cheap honing guide off of amazon. I got this one. and one of these to verify your angle.

As for sharpening I am doing the "Scary Sharp" Method and it works well. You can either DIY it or you can buy the pre made kit from Rockler.

u/t2231 · 2 pointsr/woodworking

I really like the Bosch 1617EVSPK (currently $200 at Amazon). If that's too far out of the budget, I'd go with a Craftsman 27683 ($125 at Sears).

I think you'd really benefit from the versatility offered by a kit with fixed and plunge bases, as well as the ability to accept 1/2" and 1/4" collets.

u/Jumpin_Joeronimo · 1 pointr/woodworking

There will be people that disagree, because to some extent it is about preference, and it also depends on what, exactly you do. Having said that, I'll give you a run down of stuff I either had when I started, or use frequently, or serves multiple purposes, etc.

  • Combination square for measuring and marking right angles
  • Tape measure
  • Typical wood saw for big, sloppy cutting
  • Better saw for precise cutting. I like japanese ryoba or type of backsaw
  • Basic set of wood chisels. Nothing crazy is needed to start, just know you might be sharpening more often until you get better ones
  • Personally, it really changed my game when I got an old Stanley No. 4 hand plane off ebay and fixed it up. This you might want to wait for and it depends if you want to get into stuff where you'll use it.
  • Drill.
  • Electric sander. If it's to expensive to start get one of those sanding blocks where you tuck in the sand paper.
  • Clamps. You might start with bar clamps from harbor freight. The plastic quick clamps from there will break. The bar clamps aren't too bad. If you can buy better clamps to start, definitely do it, but you can get by on those.
  • wood glue
  • 2 part epoxy... when my first joints didn't fit... this helped!
  • drawer liner. I put it under stuff so it doesn't slip.
  • hammer and mallet

    Other than that, it really depends on what you want to do. I left out power tools except for a drill because when I started I couldn't even afford that and used my dad's. I never like when people give starter lists that include table saws and stuff, because if I had seen that on a woodworking starter list I would have been turned away. You can start with cheap stuff and make good pieces, it just takes a little longer and a lot more elbow grease.
u/summiter · 2 pointsr/woodworking

I always get the pure green compound (ex: amazon y un mas)
Since stropping removes that little bur formed from use (or sharpening) and restores a keen edge, you should be stropping every time. It doesn't remove much material and doesn't take any amount of time. Only after hard or extended use should you need to revisit the stones.

Ideally you strop more often than hone and hone more often than grind.

If I'm hand-planing I don't strop my chisels, just like I don't pay bus fare when I drive me car :)

u/somethingfortoday · 2 pointsr/woodworking

From everything I understand, this is probably your best resource: Chris Swarz

There's also a video series that Paul Sellers did on making his workbench. Start here and work your way through all 10 parts. There is a ton of useful information on working with hand tools in this particular video series.

u/Golgothite · 2 pointsr/woodworking

I'm in about the same situation as you. I'm making really small/simple stuff right now. ex, a planter box outside, a super simple and plain book case. Thus far, the most useful thing I've found is a Kreg Pocket hole jig. it's like $20-40 and it makes joining lumber at right angles soooo much easier. Dowel joints and biscuits are a pain and I'm in the same situation as you as far as buying a router and table or a table saw. Plus I'm in an apartment so space is a huge issue and storing a table based tool is just not feasible.

u/mradtke66 · 2 pointsr/woodworking

I sort of used plans. I highly recommend finding

My library had it, but I bought it because I found it so useful. Unfortunately, I found it after I had started my bench. I will probably end up making a new one in the style of his "French Bench" aka the Roubo bench. It has a lot of the same features, just different construction details and shortcuts. The bench is perfectly workable, but I could do much better next time.

And I'll make the bench top thicker next time. I'll probably shoot for 4-5" finished next time.

u/SteveBro89 · 1 pointr/woodworking

I used Chris Schwartz's book, found here on amazon.

Great book, and an interesting read. Includes schematics and some very helpful step-by-step information.

u/kirbydanger · 1 pointr/woodworking

I have one of those fairly honing cheap guides-

I am tempted to get the Veritas guide, but I really don't want to drop another $140 on stuff right now. The ability to do the cambered edges and easily add microbevels seems valuable, though, over what this cheap guide offers.

u/Caleo · 13 pointsr/woodworking

This can be accomplished with nothing more than the following (no affiliate links):

  • Japanese style saw ~$30
  • El-cheapo Kanna Block Plane ~$14
  • A few chisels, honed razor sharp ~$30-60 (I bought the Irwin Marples set with the bevel guide... VITAL in helping you establish a razor edge!)
  • Sandpaper
  • Finish. I used Watco Natural Danish Oil ~$9
  • Not absolutely necessary, but helpful: Drill/Drill bits

    And the wood.. well, while purchasing some $2/board foot maple from a local miller (found on craigslist), I simply asked if he had some walnut scraps for wedges/inlays, he threw a bunch in (probably 10 board feet worth).
u/AngrySquirrel · 4 pointsr/woodworking

There are a couple ways to do this.

If you want to do it quickly and don't really care about how the details look, get a Kreg jig (I use this one) and put it together with pocket holes.

If you want something that looks nicer than pocket holes, use a sliding dovetail for the top joint and a lock rabbet for the bottom.

Are you going to put a back and/or a face frame on this? As it appears now, you're not going to have a very strong piece. Adding either or both would add strength.

u/ccrobinsusc · 1 pointr/woodworking

You can definitely wood work in an apartment! I live in a high rise and it's my favorite hobby - you just have to adapt, and scale down what you make. I make a lot of boxes and other small pieces (stand for my iMac, shaver holder, drawer organizers, cactus planters, etc...)

My "workbench" is a small side table that I set up my miter box on top of. The miter box is screwed to a 14 inch 1x6 inch board, which I clamp to the table. I try to buy pieces of wood that are already the width I want, because ripping by hand is extremely difficult. I also try to work with pieces less than 1/2 inch thickness. I use a Japanese back-saw that has one side for cross-cutting and one side for ripping. It cuts through walnut like butter!

I also have a mini router table that I built with a kit for my Bosch Colt trim router, and a random-orbit sander. My regular vacuum is my dust collection.

Apartment woodworking is awesome because it forces you to focus on detailed, small projects, and adapt to the challenges of a limited indoor space. My friends ask my how I get my mitered corners so's because I practice over and over and over again, and try different techniques (by the way even if you own a table saw, you should be cutting box miters with a chamfer router bit).

The first boxes I made sucked, but now I'm getting to the point where I'm actually excited to share my projects. If you manage your expectations and stick with it, apartment woodworking is a really fulfilling hobby.

u/the_gv3 · 1 pointr/woodworking

As someone about to take out some material with a forstner and then take the rest out/smooth it out with a router that I have never used before, I'm now slightly terrified to tackle this project. Before I head into this I figured I would ask a couple questions.

I have a template that I purchased along with the bowl bit. It sounds like one of the issues was that the bearing was not fully on the piece of wood? If I make sure the bearing isn't partially above the template when I start should that be okay? Not sure if I explained that well or am fully understanding the part where you mentioned "mistake number one".

When the bearing was riding up the spiraling lip of the forstner bit remnants, is that something I can avoid by starting the bearing on the template and smoothing everything below before plunging the router a little deeper? For this project I will need to use a collett extension to get the router bit deep enough so it will eventually have to go below the template and ride along the work piece.

Any other tips you can give me before I head in would be great! This is a 2.5 HP Bosch plunge/fixed base router. This one to be exact - - Would it be smart to start on a lower speed? Or would a higher speed be smarter to make sure it doesn't snag on the hard wood? I'm using a combination of maple/walnut glued together.

u/steve98ex · 2 pointsr/woodworking

I'm in a similar situation, just bought a dw735x and I am hoping to make a cutting board by Mother's Day. Like you I didn't have enough clamps. I ran across a pretty good deal on amazon and now I have plenty of clamps for a cutting board. Just have to pick up some pipe from a hardware store.

Here's the link

u/woodartisan · 1 pointr/woodworking

A whetstone sharpens by creating a slurry of abrasive material and water. Diamond sharpeners use the hardness of the manufactured stone to sharpen.

In my experience whetstones are far superior in sharpening, getting some good ones might bring you out of budget though, as they are about $30 for a 1000 grit and up to $80 for 6000 or 8000 grit.

They do sell two sided stones for about for $45 on Amazon

u/Rgnxsupreme · 2 pointsr/woodworking

Yeah, you could look in to smaller bench top models of table saws and jointers, lunchbox planers, etc.
Ive seen people create some pretty cool work areas out of small spaces.
The downside is with smaller tools comes less surface to reference your workpiece during the cut, less power and dust collection...
These are some smaller "budget" tools that I've heard good things about:

Benchtop "Lunchbox" Thickness Planer
Benchtop Jointer
Benchtop table saw
Benchtop Drill Press

u/Electric_Tiger01 · 1 pointr/woodworking

There's a few good videos to watch on YouTube. Here is a one I found useful

There's multiple tools that you can use, but I've found these two to be indispensable for the job.

Carving knife


I also used a spokeshave and a hook knife. I didn't find the hook knife to be all that useful though. Another way to shape the outside of the spoon is with a belt/disc sander. I found that to be a quick, although very messy, way to get the rough shape I wanted. Then I'd clean it up with the spokeshave and knife. Sand it up to 400 or more then finish with a food safe product like howards butcher block conditioner

u/dino_silone · 2 pointsr/woodworking

Different types of benches lend themselves to different types of work. A really good book that talks about the way you go about deciding what sort of bench you want to build is Chris Schwarz's "The Workbench Design Book: The Art and Philosophy of Building Better Benches".

For eye-candy and inspiration (and some instruction), there's the classic, "The Workbench Book", by Scott Landis.

u/CueCueQQ · 3 pointsr/woodworking

For that price, you can get the Bosch, which I think is a better deal. It's the router I have, and I've been quite happy with it. That said, a router is a router in many cases. I think the Bosch is a better deal as you get the fixed base that you can put in a router table and use the plunge base for all your handheld uses.

u/commodore_nate · 1 pointr/woodworking

The bottom budget (or lowest you could go without blaming your sharpening equipment for failure) would be a Norton combination India stone or King combination water stone, plus some honing compound and a scrap of denim or leather glued to a block of wood for a strop.

Use a honing guide like this if you aren't comfortable trying free hand.

A tool is sharp when two surfaces (the back/face and bevel) meet at a sharp corner with ~0 radius. The edge is honed/refined on finer and finer stones to get a better surface finish and better edge retention.

Here are some tutorials with and without a honing guide. I recommend watching both, because each covers a different aspect of initial chisel prep.

On top of your sharpening equipment, work from both sides and use knife lines to prevent blow out.

u/DesolationRobot · 1 pointr/woodworking

I think a good budget entry would be sandpaper on a marble tile for rough stuff (e.g. 320 grit to establish a bevel) and then a combination water stone. Finish with a leather strop with compound. If you can scrounge a very flat tile and a scrap of leather and scrap of wood, that whole setup is $40. You should only need to break out the sandpaper occasionally. Your regular resharpening would be a few strokes at 1000 grit, a few more at 6000 grit, and a few on the strop. (Use the sandpaper-on-marble to flatten the waterstone occasionally.)

That waterstone won't last you forever, but it will be a good cheap introduction. And it's 2.5" wide, so plane irons are easier.

u/FSMisMyCopirate · 2 pointsr/woodworking

Schwarz has two workbench books and I have only read this one cover to cover and it has quite a few benches in there so it is quite possible that one of them had laminated dimensional lumber. The bench he feels is best suited for hand work is the Roubo that is featured on the cover and the legs for it are made from 6x6's that he found in the back of a big box store. I am in no way saying that you can't rip down 2x8's or 2x12's and laminate them together I am simply suggesting that buying lumber as close as you can to the proper dimensions for the legs and top ect. the less work it is, and imho makes for a better looking bench if not a more stable bench.

u/stalemunchies · 2 pointsr/woodworking

The complete guide to jointmaking is a pretty basic place to start. You can then move onto Tage frid's joinery book. This one is a little more in depth.

With that being said, in the case of a table and table top you will first want to construct the legs to have aprons so they are not free standing legs. This will help some with racking. You can then use a biscuit cutter or table saw and table top fasteners to attach the leg/apron assembly to the top.

u/TomMelee · 1 pointr/woodworking

I recently bought this one for my very first plane (A Stanley #5 Sweetheart, woot!), and use it with a waterstone. It's very nice, except that my waterstone is exactly the same width as my blade.

I found a video...somewhere...about using this on the cut side and then using a very thin metal ruler as a stop for a very find back bevel, works great.

I still need to finish reprofiling my blade though, for which I'll probably use the sandpaper method.

u/TheKillingVoid · 2 pointsr/woodworking

My 618 has been great, and the D-handle option makes it even more useful. The alternative is the Bosch 1617EVSPK, which is also well regarded.

u/sourdoughbred · 2 pointsr/woodworking

Great value for money.

I prefer the style with the stand myself. Like these bessey's. Easier to use on large glue up when you can set the clamps up on a flat surface.

u/Jewishjay · 1 pointr/woodworking

Yea, same idea. If you hone the edge correctly, you'll almost never have to completely regrind it. I like this little thing to hold the chisel at the correct angle, but you can certainly do it by hand.

u/jontomas · 1 pointr/woodworking

Are you meaning brand? or type?

I orginally started with the dozuki and ryoba from this store at amazon:

For $20 each, they were fantastic - highly recommend trying one if you want an inexpensive trial with japanese saws.

After that, I moved on to - they've got a slightly better/more expensive range of saws - but you can still get a very good Gyokucho brand saw there for a very reasonable price. (About $40-50 each)

u/we_can_build_it · 1 pointr/woodworking

I would look at something like this. They get great reviews for the price and yes to ensure square cuts I would use a shooting board to get it dialed in after cross cutting.

u/RatLogger · 1 pointr/woodworking

I strongly suggest looking into the Pocket Screw jig systems. There are many jigs available from makers like Kraig (expensive) to Harbor Freight. (cheap but functional if you are careful) Amazing for both carcass and face frames. Lost of videos on the Tube about this.
Built custom oak cabinets in a professional shop for several years and we used a Kraig Jig. The sweet thing is that once you glue up and screw down the joint, you can take the clamps off and use them on the next setup.
(Links for example only - NOT affiliate)

u/hibikikun · 4 pointsr/woodworking

I have bought both. Just save up a little longer and buy the veritas. It's a better long term investment.

That said, if you are really on a budget, realize that these honing guides are practically all copies of each other. I would not be surprised if they're made from the same factory. You can save a few bucks by buying this.

after that build yourself a jig that lie nielsen suggest

u/theboxer16 · 1 pointr/woodworking

Thanks! Does this saw look like something I should get first then that can pretty much do it all?

DEWALT 10-Inch Table Saw, 16-Inch Rip Capacity (DW745)

u/1100110001000 · 1 pointr/woodworking

Okay I'm going to give it another shot this weekend with the 3/4" stock I have. I have these narex chisels. Should these work?

Ha ha yeah mdf and oil/moisture don't really mix but the boxes look nice!

u/Bunleigh · 5 pointsr/woodworking

I made one of these recently and used butcher block conditioner (they have it at pretty much any hardware store). A mix of mineral oil and some food-safe wax so it has a nice smooth feel while being safe for the baby to nom on. One bottle is probably enough for like 200 rattles.

u/darkehawk14 · 1 pointr/woodworking

Dewalt I got. Love it. Also what we use at school. They get a massive amount of use. Seem pretty bulletproof to me. And, -$15 = more wood, right?

u/JustinSK1 · 2 pointsr/woodworking

I bought similar on Amazon when they were prime for $67. They installed easy and seem to hold up well so far. I'm careful and slow when I move my bench around with a lot of weight thought. I'm mostly concerned that one of the wheels will get caught on sawdust or a seam in the concrete and ruin my day.

As far as do they work as you'd expect, yes. It's really easy to use your foot to lift the bench up.

u/kintexu2 · 1 pointr/woodworking

What wood are you using? If its a hardwood like maple or the other common woods for cutting boards, then it shouldn't need to be strengthened at all, just oiled

And while I have never made a cutting board, I have a friend that does and he uses that Howard butcher block oil you linked or This Stuff, I'm not sure which (same company). Apply like any oil stain. It's food safe once it cures, and will prevent some of the wood absorbing liquid (I wouldn't use it to cut meat on).

u/caddis789 · 1 pointr/woodworking

I have both a trim router and a 2.25 hp router (actually 2). If I could only have one, it would definitely be the larger one. Trim routers are great for edge profiles (round-overs, etc), and maybe some smaller mortises, but they can't deal with much more. I also had an earlier version of that Ryobi. It was OK, but even that had difficulty handling bigger cuts, plus it didn't work well in a router table set up. If you can swing it, the Bosch 1617EVSPK is a great package

u/stonebock · 2 pointsr/woodworking

So full price, the Craftsman is roughly equivalent to this Bosch. How do these two actually stack up and is the Bosch worth the premium over the Craftsman even at the sale price?

EDIT: Just noticed the lack of a built-in dust collection system on the Bosch. Looks like this kit would solve that issue for another $40.

Also, any recommendation on good value bits?

u/moops_ · 2 pointsr/woodworking

I just started getting into woodworking and bought this set which is a cheaper version of #1 :

I then sharpened them following Paul Sellers video using sandpaper and I'm very happy. I contemplated getting #1 instead of these for a while but went the cheaper route so I could turn that $15 into other tools.

Once they were sharp it made quick work of some pine I had. Will be trying on some hardwoods tonight, so hopefully I'm still happy.

u/gsolarfish · 1 pointr/woodworking

I used 4" heavy duty locking casters, they were fine. Another option is retractable casters like these ( I use them on a workbench and they're great.

u/bleedscarlet · 2 pointsr/woodworking

Here's a few really good gifts that I got recently:

Highly recommended:

u/yeahyeahyeahyeahoh · 2 pointsr/woodworking

I'd suggest reading a book on finishes. I just read a book that was fantastic --really upped my game. There is quite a bit to learn, but you'll be happy you did.

u/SUpirate · 2 pointsr/woodworking

I modeled the casters roughly after these, so yeah you would have to go around and engage them all before moving the bench.

Basically I think I want a split top and expect that's how i'll set it up at first, but I'm nervous I won't like it, so I thought I'd give myself both options.

I'll make a nice insert tool-holder strip thing and leave it split for a while, then close the gap if its not working for me. It will also be nice to not have a 200lb+ slab top when I move shops.

u/ikariusrb · 2 pointsr/woodworking

In that case, you really should look at either the Rigid 4512 or the Delta 36-725 (either runs $500-600 at HD or lowes). That $200 kobalt saw is not going to serve you very well. I wrote up to help out folks looking for a table saw. Craigslist can take some time- even if there's nothing now, you may well be able to find a deal if you can wait a while. Set up an automated search that emails you when it finds new matches.

As far as a router goes, I'd recommend over the one you linked, for very similar money.

u/banthur · 2 pointsr/woodworking

If you buy anything with a blade, google/youtube search "<name of bladed item> safety" before you buy it.

Used stuff is cool and all but if you get a table saw make sure you get one with modern safety features (I'm looking at you, riving knife).

Nothing you do in the shop will ever be worth losing flesh and blood.

u/GravityTracker · 1 pointr/woodworking

Hey man, looks way better than anything I could build at 15. But since you're asking for some constructive criticism, I'll give a few suggestions.

The one thing I really don't like is the screws on the bottom legs. There are lots of different ways to do this, with varying levels of difficulty.

First would be just counter sinking the screw then filling the hole with wooden buttons. You can pick up a usable set of counter sink bits at harbor freight for $7

Second might be pocket holes. You can get a jig for ~40 bucks. Honestly, this might not be the best option for you. For the price, you could get a lot of other more useful tools.

Third might be a [mortise and tenon joint] ( You can make these by hand with a decent hand saw and some chisels, and square. But it its very hard to do without a vise, which is pricey. Also takes a bit more effort and skill. You can also make them with power tools.

You could have made the cutouts for the seat slats a little cleaner. If you get a combo square and chisels. You don't need fancy chisels. These are decent starter chisels if you learn [how to sharpen] (

u/chumpyis · 2 pointsr/woodworking

Narex chisels are the best bang for the buck if you ask me. This is a nice starter set. As others have said, keep them sharp and they will last you a long, long time.

u/kastdotcom · 1 pointr/woodworking

Bosch makes a nice router kit that accepts 1/4" and 1/2" shank bits and comes with a fixed base and plunge base, all in a nice case. I got mine for just under $200 and have since spent an additional $45 for a table insert for my main powered workbench. You can also find refurbs for $150ish.

Bosch 12 Amp 2-1/4 Combination Horsepower Plunge and Fixed Base Variable Speed Router Kit 1617EVSPK with 1/4-Inch and 1/2-Inch Collets

u/penaltyornot · 2 pointsr/woodworking

Tage Frid's book has very detailed instructions for machine and hand tools for all the basic techniques, from dimensioning/squaring the wood to joints etc. (There's 3 parts, some editions have all, some editions have only 1 part, all the most important information is in book 2: joinery).

I don't really have any other books to compare it with, but I found it very useful.

u/tpodr · 2 pointsr/woodworking

Also picked up the Bosch 1617EVSPK kit and have been very happy with it. Only used the fixed base mounted to a router table so far, and has performed nicely. As me again in a week and I will let you know how the plunger base performed.

u/fashionbrahh · 2 pointsr/woodworking

an hr?? jesus that sounds like hell. I'm not sure how you are sharpening the blades but my 3 side arkansas with a honing guide can get me some nice shavings in a few minutes.

but yes, one day I will splurge for a Norton!