Reddit reviews Duck Brand Select Grip EasyLiner Shelf and Drawer Liner, Non-Adhesive, 12-Inch x 20-Feet, White, 1344559
We found 7 Reddit comments about Duck Brand Select Grip EasyLiner Shelf and Drawer Liner, Non-Adhesive, 12-Inch x 20-Feet, White, 1344559. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.
Ideal for: drawers and utility cabinets or in campers and RVs to keep objects from sliding while on the moveNon-adhesive grip top and bottom holds liner and objects in placeProvides cushion and protectionMachine washable for easy cleanup. Wash in cold water and lay flat to dry.Easy to cut, install, replace and reposition without hassle
Similar product: shelf liner
Shelf liner available at grocery stores and Dollar Stores.
I have the Alex drawers with the desk on top. I find that the little support things didn't really prevent my desk from sliding. They actually moved from where I stuck them. I use shelf liners as a secondary grip to keep things in place. Not sure if that helps.
Nice video, quick & too the point but gives a decent understanding of the steps you went through! I dig the finished product, Sky Dolch represent! ;) Can't go wrong with that colorway IMO! How you enjoying it so far? I have yet to do a build with Zealios but love my 2 boards with MOD tactiles (the linked pic is one of them) so I'm gonna go out on a limb & assume you're loving it, LOL!
Also I seen in the comments someone recommended a sound dampening material. If you've got some shelf liner laying around the house a layer or 2 of it at the bottom of a case will do a pretty good job of quieting a board down also. Probably not as good as Isolate It!, but if you already have shelf liner I doubt the differences are big enough to justify spending money for them. I could be wrong though, although I've used shelf liner to great effect in all of my boards that have bottom case + plate design.
Anyways enjoy the new board & thanks for putting the video up!
do you mean something like this?
Well, someone will inevitably point out to you all the guides on the sidebar. But having said that, it's a tricky thing to advise on because everyone likes different things.
Since it's your first keyboard, you'll want to really improve the quality of life. A few tricks I recommend:
1 - Lube your switches. This requires you to disassemble them (not difficult), which you can attempt to do with a small screwdriver, but you risk damaging them. A switch opening tool ($7 USD and free shipping) will make all the difference in the world. There's certainly more detailed guides for this, and I'll try to limit the scope of this thread, but regardless of what switches you've got, you want to lube them. If you're not sure what lube to use, this is a good starting point.
2 - LUBE YOUR STABILIZERS. This will be different from lubing your switches. You want to use a thick material, such as dielectric grease, as it is safe for plastics, won't dry out or shrink, and lasts a long time. Crappy/wrong lube will break down over time, and then before you know it you'll have rattling stabilizers. Dielectric grease is not expensive - do it right. If you're not sure how to clip and lube your stabilizers, watch this video. On that note:
3 - Get better stabilizers. If I remember right from my KBD75 kit, the stabilizers they include are Chinese clones. Don't use these. They will rattle no matter how well you lube them, and the feet aren't capable of being clipped like genuine Cherry ones. Don't make the mistake of thinking it won't be that big of a deal. Once you've assembled the board, you'll only be able to change them by desoldering the entire thing. I've made the mistake - so have plenty of others. Get the right stabilizers. Get these (you will want PCB mount stabilizers).
4 - Band-aid mod. Put little strips of fabric band-aid in the space that will be underneath the stabilizer housings. This will make it so the stabilizer stems don't clack down hard onto the PCB. Here is a visual example of what I mean.
5 - Practice soldering first, or watch some videos (or both). Don't risk melting a switch or burning out your PCB. If you've not done some soldering before, start practicing now. It can be done with a really cheap soldering iron, but make sure you know what you're doing.
6 - Only use leaded solder. Don't go with lead-free solder. It flows like crap, and is a huge pain in the ass to desolder later if you have issues. And rosin core is essential. If you need a suggestion, this stuff (in 0.8mm width) is great.
7 - Clean the flux off your board when you're done soldering. Get a cheap, soft bristled brush, and some 70% isopropyl alcohol. Dip the brush in the alcohol and gently scrub all the brown gooey stuff off the back once you're done soldering. This stuff can oxidize easily, and will lead to corrosion down the line if you don't take care of it. It's not water-soluble, so that's why we use alcohol. The alcohol will also dry residue free. Win-win.
8 - Put some cheap dampening agent in the case. Since it's a KBD75, you're gonna want that underglow visible so you don't want to use a thick foam. But something cheap like this will do wonders to absorb some of the ping and clack from the keys that is common with an aluminum case. Just line the bottom of the case and cut out the holes for the standoffs.
That's about all I can think of off the top of my head. You do this business, and you'll have a near endgame board right out of the gate. If you've got any additional questions, feel free to lob them my way.
Buy yourself some rubberized shelf liner. It's lightweight but pretty grippy. Does a great job of preventing my phone and/or tablet from sliding all over the place.
I'm pretty sure kbd67 PCB would work in the tofu 65 case. The split backspace I don't really like. And youd have to get a plate that allows for the space in the bottom row. (you could Dremel out a tada68 plate)
The stock tada68 plate is steel and I imagine aftermarket ones are steel also.
KPrepublic also just released a 65% board(not hotswapable) but they do have a steel plate that would work with either the lkf or the kbd67pcb (if the holes are line up properly.... Which they look like they are but I cant say for sure unless I got one).
The thing I don't like about the lfk65 is the 3 keys to the right of the space bar. I like 2 keys there. Either 2x 1.5u or 2x1.25u +.5 u spacer)
As for sound dampening just get some cheap drawer liner at Walmart or dollar store. (I feel that this is too expensive and can be found cheaper locally but some tlike this would work https://www.amazon.com/Duck-Select-Drawer-12-Inch-20-Feet/dp/B002AS9NAS/ref=mp_s_a_1_10_sspa?keywords=shelf+liner&qid=1555375109&s=gateway&sr=8-10-spons&psc=1)
Maybe add a little electrical tape to dampen the noise between the top/bottom/plate on the kbd67 also.