Reddit reviews ENERWAVE Z-Wave Plus Relay, Hidden Smart Switch Wireless Remote Control to Lights and Ceiling Fans, 120-277VAC, 10A, Neutral Wire Required, ZWN-RSM1-PLUS, Black

A cheaper way to convert 3/4 way switches is to use one of the micro relays from enerwave, aeotec, vision, aeon labs, quibino, etc. You just need to put one of these fellows behind the switch closest to the light (or at the light itself), and don't need to replace any switches. These relays are more expensive than a single z-wave switch, but often cheaper than a master+slave switch.

Here's a link to one example.

Related products on Amazon actually showed me exactly what I remember seeing before also, here's the link!


https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G7OD1F8/ref=sspa_dk_detail_6?psc=1&pd_rd_i=B01G7OD1F8&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=f52e26da-1287-4616-824b-efc564ff75a4&pf_rd_r=5TEPJ8EECGC1HTAF6VNP&pd_rd_wg=Tp7vt&pf_rd_s=desktop-dp-sims&pf_rd_t=40701&pd_rd_w=33lB4&pf_rd_i=desktop-dp-sims&pd_rd_r=2fe93901-cf5a-11e8-b413-df24a88cfed6

Yep! Here's a link of something similar. Not sure if that's the exact one I got.

You could put a hidden micro-switch inside the back of the receptacle and keep the non-smart outlet downstream. Here is an example of one: https://www.amazon.com/Enerwave-ZWN-RSM1-PLUS-Wireless-Control-Required/dp/B01G7OD1F8

My advice was only 100% relevant to the brands I mentioned and am not advising splicing wires.

In the case of the brands I mentioned, the difference between a unit with a pump and one without is literally a pump installed into the machine compartment. The cord which would otherwise be plugged into the wall from the ice maker is plugged into a socket on the pump and the pump itself has its own cord that then goes to the wall. The pump is supposed to shut off power to the ice maker if the pump fails.

Looking at the pump kit for the Scotsman it is clear that this isn't the case. I don't have any suggestions at this point, though you could try splicing if you really wanted to with one of the in-wall switches like:
https://www.amazon.com/Enerwave-ZWN-RSM1-PLUS-Wireless-Control-Required/dp/B01G7OD1F8

A lot of this depends on how the fan and lights are wired.

In general, there should be two circuits in the fan- one for the fan motor, one for the lights. That means two pull chains since you say you use chains.

Complicating this is the fact that you have one and only one on-off switch, which probably kills power to the whole fan fixture.

If this were me, I'd hardwire the switch so that it ALWAYS supplies power. Or just cover the switch with something like this.

Then I'd get two Micro Switches or equivalent, and put them above the fan. One controls the fan motor circuit, the other controls the lighting circuit.

I'd then replace the pull chains with momentary pull chain switches and wire those into the micro switches to activate them.

End result of this- fan and light have working local control with the pull chains. The switch location has an on/off button that you program to turn on fan or light or both. And both are addressable in Google Home.

Also note- the products I linked are Z-Wave. To make them work with Google Home you'll need a hub to sit between Google Home and Z-Wave. Vera is a good choice, SmartThings works too.

You could get WiFi products instead- Here's a micro switch and while I couldn't find a switch cover plate like the Z-Wave one, there are a lot of WiFi light switches you could hardwire in as long as you have a neutral wire in the light switch box. Just wire hot to load (so the fan is always powered) and connect the switch to neutral and hot (so the switch gets power). Thus switch isn't actually switching anything, just sending a WiFi signal for Google Home to react to and turn on fan / light / etc.
While WiFi products don't require a hub, it does mean if you ever reset your WiFi password you'll have to dismantle your ceiling fan.

You could try this, it's a zwave relay that you can install on dumb switches.

So I just found this:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01G7OD1F8/ref=pd_aw_sbs_60_of_5?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=6PCH57G7MYJCP1PFDJ8M

There are a bunch of different brands and sizes on Amazon.

Basically I think you could put that inside the fan electrical box. I'm assuming the fan power and light power should be separated in there? (If not you're out of options). If they are you still wouldn't be able to control fan speed but it would go to whatever setting is on the pull chain. It's z-wave so you'd still need something like Smartthings hub which isnt horrible because then you can open a door of other things to control if you choose.

Nope, you can keep the regular one. Like this micro switch

If the use case is to be able to buy yourself in, geofence is not accurate enough to trigger that.

Sounds like you'll need to wire something into the door buzzer in your apartment. Like this thing.

Enerwave ZWN-RSM1-PLUS Z-Wave Relay, Z-Wave Plus Micro Switch, Smart Hidden Switch Wireless Remote Control to Lights and Ceiling Fans, Neutral Wire Required, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G7OD1F8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ugPQCbSETGY9R

How exactly? Could not say.... It'll depend on the way the buzzer works.

Keep in mind that this will mean if your internet or power goes down, you are stuck outside.

Updating my own post because I think I figured out a way.

They make garage door universal receivers (intended for driveway gates), which are basically N.O. relays that work with garage door openers. Example I can then connect that relay to a Z-Wave switch module, such as this, and that will allow the garage door relays to communicate via Z-wave with my home automation system. I haven't tried it yet, but seems feasible.

Yup. There are several of these available from Aeon Labs, Monoprice and Enerwave. Enerwave even makes a dual-relay.

I would suggest using this micro switch https://www.amazon.com/Enerwave-ZWN-RSM1-Wireless-NEUTRAL-REQUIRED/dp/B01G7OD1F8/ref=sr_1_6?s=lamps-light&ie=UTF8&qid=1483116080&sr=1-6&keywords=z+wave+switch#Ask

It goes in your switch box and you use your existing light switches to control it. Only need one for the circuit. You'll want to consult the product manual for wiring it up in a 3 way configuration, and depending on your electrical knowledge, may need to hire an electrician. Basically, it needs to go on the "last" switch in the circuit, so you'll need to trace power through the circuit to determine which one it is.

>From what I am reading I can just buy a Z-Wave USB stick and use it on the PC that is hosting HASS?

Yup. I have one of these, works great: https://smile.amazon.com/Aeotec-Aeon-Labs-ZW090-Stick/dp/B00X0AWA6E/

>Are there zwave switches that arent a physical switch?

How about just getting one of these? https://smile.amazon.com/Light-Switch-Guard-Toggle-Shields/dp/B00DTXKOTM/

>Are there any zwave relays?

There are, though I'm not aware of anything 12v.

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01G7OD1F8/

https://smile.amazon.com/Vision-Z-Wave-Micro-Switch-relay/dp/B00R883YKU/

>Any ideas on how that can be accomplished?

No idea on this on. I'm sure it's possible with HASS. At the very least you can call and external script to make said announcement. You might ask out on the forums, they have a good community: https://community.home-assistant.io/

Cheers!

I imagine this would work, but not sure what would interface with it. https://www.amazon.com/Enerwave-ZWN-RSM1-Wireless-Control-Required/dp/B01G7OD1F8/ref=pd_sbs_421_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B01G7OD1F8&pd_rd_r=7E6HY1E3RSSN4QHYS66N&pd_rd_w=ZedD4&pd_rd_wg=YnaG3&psc=1&refRID=7E6HY1E3RSSN4QHYS66N

This is my favorite solution so far. My only reservation is having a dependency on SmartThings to shut off the fan, versus the timer switch.


Would it be possible to use a Z-Wave Micro Switch and keep my physical timer switch?


My thought is that if everything is working (SmartThings), then the automation would start the fan and shut off the fan. But for any reason, if my automation/smartthing, isn't working, everything still acts normal via the physical timer switch.

Yes but how do I fit two switches where only one was before and without running another 3 way switch wire?
Is it as simple as getting a dual rocker switch like https://www.amazon.com/Enerlites-Single-Pole-Decorator-Combination-Residential/dp/B075KJMSP3 and a couple of relays like these https://www.amazon.com/Enerwave-ZWN-RSM1-PLUS-Wireless-Control-Required/dp/B01G7OD1F8 ?
It seems like an overly complicated solution to me and i'm not even sure if it would work.

>The important question to ask is what kind of 3-phase (they aren’t all alike), and what voltage is our lighting? (A possible answer not compatible with your switch is 277v).

Yeah I mean if he has 3 phase with a neutral they are most likely 277vac. Seems like the z-wave relay/contactor method is the best bet at like ~$40. Can be installed in the ceiling at the fixture or in the switch box - See Here . You can get straight up switches for 277vac but they are price $65 - See Here

Currently controlling Honeywell thermostat with Alexa. Single zone

The purpose of my question is to cool the bedroom(s) at night and let the rest of the house be warmer. I just don't want to drop the cash required for a 4 zone system.


If I wired on or off electrical dampers with something like:

Enerwave Z-Wave Plus ZWN-RSM1 Smart Hidden Switch Wireless Remote Control to Lights & Ceiling Fans, Neutral Wire Required, Black https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G7OD1F8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_IMYhzbYEXKF1J

Couldn't I simply close off all areas I don't need cooled. I would imagine someone smarter than me could set up a web interface or IFTTT that could reference wifi temp sensors to command av on off based on which dampers were on or off.

Your worst case scenario is to put 2 remote zwave switches up in the ceiling fan. This will require bypassing the remote module in the fan, and wiring the lights driectly to one of these zwave switches. Secondly, You would remove the wall switch as it won't help this setup (wire it straight through and put a cover on the box.) And finally, you would still have to use the original remote to control fan speed. Maybe put a zwave scene controller panel over the unused wall switch box.

If you open the wall switch box and you find that 14-3 wire was run between the switch and fan, then your options just got alot better. You could expand the box to be 2 gangs, Put in a zwave switch for the lights, zwave fan controller, and send the power down that the black wire, and the other the red. You'll still have to bypass the fan's remote control module, but now for the fan and the lights as the zwave in wall fan controller will handle the speed.

Stick this in the ceiling box for the florescent. https://www.amazon.com/Enerwave-ZWN-RSM1-PLUS-Wireless-Control-Required/dp/B01G7OD1F8/

I have a Wink Hub as my smart controller, then am getting some of these to convert my light switches: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01G7OD1F8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_vDODybFPS73D2

There are also 2 switch versions that would control 2 lights, but basically they act like a 2nd switch for the light but it's hidden in the wall box so both the hub or switch can control the light.