Reddit reviews [Gulfcoast Robotics] Y Carriage Plate Upgrade for Maker Select and Wanhao Duplicator i3 3D Printers

The carriage plate needs to be replaced (assuming you have the stock one) it's very thin and bends easily.

https://www.amazon.com/Gulfcoast-Robotics-Carriage-Duplicatior-Printers/dp/B07B251KBS/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1537520960&sr=8-3&keywords=i3+carriage+plate&dpID=41LSqGT%252BKzL&preST=_SX342_QL70_&dpSrc=srch

had the same problem you did with my i3 plus, installed that a few years ago, and it's been rock solid ever since.

Batter to be safe than sorry . Got one of these and not disappointed

https://www.amazon.com/Gulfcoast-Robotics-Carriage-Duplicatior-Printers/dp/B07B251KBS


This is what I use. After replacing the carriage plate and adjusting my Z-brace/lead screws a bit to level my bed once, I no longer bother to re-level it and it prints perfect every time after.

I ordered this one, and it got to me in Canada pretty quick for a decent price: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B251KBS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I've literally only done two prints since I got it installed though, so I can't say how big an improvement it is on the original yet.

Seconding everything people have said here and want to add the following.
A glass bed with 10mil PEI from CS Hyde will do wonders for bed leveling.

Upgrade your Y plate as soon as possible, the stock one warps over enough time making bed leveling nearly impossible.

All metal hotend such as the micro swiss is amazing, no more clogged PTFE tubing, easier to clean if it does.

Z brace is a must, also print a fan cooler like the Diicooler on thingiverse. Replace the stock part cooling fan with a nice radial fan, plenty on amazon, make sure its 12v. This helps prints come out cleaner.

Yours should come with thumbwheels, if not, print some, bed leveling is easier with it.

Print some spring cups as well, keeps the springs straight and not bending when leveling the bed.

DO THE MOSFET MOD TO MAKE IT SAFE!

Watch this vid and do his printed mods https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Tpcm4XEbP1Q&t=752s&list=PLyIdpN_zILcknsQzSZSiWhQ685NxkWsvD&index=2

Also, stay far far FAR away from Shaxon filament! It broke my hotend, check my post history to see the red glob of death I dealt with. I have had very good luck with eSun PLA.

Links for bought parts:
Fans: [here (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00MJU6JR2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)]

Glass plate: [Here (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B2YLWF9/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)]

Hotend: [Here(https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E1HANLS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)]

Y plate: [Here (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B251KBS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)]

MOSFET: [here(https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01HEQVQAK/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)] and wires [here(https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B017U6PGLO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)]

There are a lot of variables in play here, but I strongly recommend getting the upgraded carriage plate from Gulfcoast Robotics (fka RepRap Champion).

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07B251KBS/

Not only will it improve initial leveling, it will hold level longer. The stock carriage plate is prone to warping and may be the twisted component that is throwing things off for you.

I was going to link you the one I bought for my maker select v2 but it seems they're out of stock.

There is another seller though that has a few but it's a few dollars more than what I paid.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B07B251KBS

This one. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/cr/B07B251KBS/ref=mw_dp_cr

Its the carriage plate I am talking about not the build plate.

The plate that warps is that thin sheet metal under the build plate. Its what is connected to the bearings on the y axis.

You don't need to test it. I can already tell you it is fucked.

Here is a much better one.

My advice (first of all) is to install ADVi3++ if you haven't, the bed-leveing function (under the Tuning menu I think) is pretty good.

Some general advice for the actual leveling process:

• Start with the knobs tightened enough that the nozzle is too high everywhere and work from there.
  
• Underturn each knob during the leveling process. Loosening the knobs adjacent to a corner you're leveling will affect that corner somewhat - e.g., loosening the front left and back right knobs will also lower the bed for the front right corner, so if you adjust the front right corner knob fully, when you loosen the other knobs, the bed will be too close in that corner.
  
• Keep making minor adjustments, keeping in mind which corners are high/low, until a piece of paper can be slid under the nozzle with some friction.
  
  If things still aren't leveling:
  
  
• Mess with your z-axis motors. I actually just used a normal level for this, which worked for me, but you may require more experimentation.
  
• Adjust your z-endstop. Especially if you've put a glass bed in place, you may have set your endstop too high or too low to effectively level the bed. Ideally, you want the knobs to be about in the middle of their range while the bed is level. If the knobs are too tight or too loose, wonky things can happen (bed can get pulled sideways slightly)
  
• If all else fails, you probably have a warped y-carriage. Mine is warped slightly, and leveling is harder for me than it should be. You can get a replacement y-carriage here, and you can follow this video to replace it.
  
  Once you can actually get things level, I highly recommend getting some M3 nyloc nuts and replacing the default bed leveling knobs with these. They don't look as nice as the metal/stock ones, but it will prevent vibration/movement from de-leveling your bed as quickly.
  
  Good luck!

Couple of thoughts -

• Preheat the bed to the print temp before leveling. On my MSP, the bed rises considerably depending on whether it's hot or cold.
  
• When leveling, use printer paper. Business cards are too thick, you really want that nozzle close to the bed so it's smooshing that first layer down.
  
• Preheat the bed for several minutes before starting the print
  
  Also, it will cost you some money but replacing the Y carriage and adding a good glass plate help too. I'll edit this in a sec with the links.
  
  Edit!
  
  Glass bed: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B2YLWF9
  Y-carriage: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B251KBS
  
  I originally was using thermal pads between the glass and the print surface. Eventually I found I had better results by skipping the pads, peeling off the print surface, and putting the glass directly on the metal bed with small binder clips on the left and right edges. I use Elmer's purple glue sticks for adhesion and rough it up with a sanding block between prints. Make sure your Y axis rods are level, as well.
  
  Good luck!
  
  

Hotend replacement:
I replaced the stock hotend/PTFE tube setup with an all-metal Micro Swiss hotend ($50):Amazon link to the Micro Swiss all-metal hotend kit: https://amazon.com/gp/product/B01E1HANLS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Bed leveling:

1. Most importantly, I purchased a glass bed to eliminate the never-really-level printbed.Amazon link to the borosilicate glass bed ($25): https://amazon.com/gp/product/B07BHG5HCV/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
   
2. Since that didn't I completely fix the warped bed issue, I also replaced the aluminum Y-carriage underneath with a thicker, stronger carriage and my bed leveling is now perfect. I still re-level before every print just in case, and now never have leveling-related problems.Amazon link to the aluminum Y-carriage ($28): https://amazon.com/gp/product/B07B251KBS/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
   
   Frame Stabilization:
   I printed the parts, and purchased the hardware at Home Depot for the Z-brace mod, which stabilized the printer frame:Thingiverse link for Z-brace mod for I3 Plus: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1653631(note the original Thingiverse link in comments, which is required for the other Z-brace parts: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:921948)
   
   Cooling:
   I printed a Dii Cooler in PETG and replaced the stock cooler with one of those 24V "squirrel cage" fans, which provided much better cooling for all sides of my prints. Before that it really only cooled the front of prints, leaving the sides and especially the rear of prints looking pretty bad.Thingiverse link for Dii Cooler for i3 Plus: https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1025471

So far I've made the following Mods:

Z-Axis Stabilizer
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1549403

Cii Cooler
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2004629

Y-Carriage upgrade
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B251KBS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Glass Bed
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B2YLWF9/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Y and X Belt Tensioners
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1784375

Adjustable Z stop
https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2916757

I don't see why you couldn't bend it back, but it's a thin piece of metal and the problem will keep coming back each time. This upgrade is one of the most recommended for my printer, and it's certainly made a massive difference for me. My bed levels and STAYS level now.

Here's the one I bought. I think it works with your printer, but you may be able to find a cheaper one on Ebay or something. Mine is well-made and I'm completely happy with it.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07B251KBS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I have a maker select v2 and recently switched to 3 point leveling with one of these. Highly recommended.

This gives an excellent overview of the benefits of 3 point leveling.

I was having the same problems as you prior to the upgrade. I couldn't get even leveling across the bed which led to my printer collecting dust for a few months.

If all goes wrong or you want to upgrade your carriage this one comes pre-drilled for 4 point and 3 point

That's possible if you're overconstraining the bed and warping it yourself. That's why people recommend 3 point leveling nowadays.

Instead of the bed, look to see if the y-carraige is bent. That's the thing under the bed that the bed rides on. https://www.amazon.com/Gulfcoast-Robotics-Carriage-Duplicatior-Printers/dp/B07B251KBS you can get replacments of those. And if that's bent, you'll run into issues too.