Reddit reviews Lumision ADD Circuit Mini APM ATM Fuse TAP Add ON Dual Circuit Adapter AUTO CAR Terminal + Fuse Set 5, 7.5, 10, 15, 20 AMPS

finally pulled the trigger, it been a long time since i wanted one. The only thing that kept me from doing it was that i wanted it hardwire not freaking wires going to my cig lighter port. Well after spending 5 minutes on youtube it's not really hard at all... So i went out to my car to see what would to be done and doubt it will take me no more than 10 minutes to set up.

Just in case anyone want to know what i ordered for their selves

SpyTec A119 + GPS Logger 1440p Car Dash Camera

Spy Tec Dash Camera Vehicle Hard Wire Kit

fuse tap

Lexar High-Performance microSDHC 633x 32GB

I got it to work with this 150 watt inverter but there was a catch that could be potentially harmful which I'll type below:

http://m.advanceautoparts.com/p/schumacher-150-watt-power-converter-xi15/11021654-P?searchTerm=150+watt

Interestingly enough this 140 watt inverter's over current protection would shut itself down and reboot about every 20 seconds:

http://m.advanceautoparts.com/p/schumacher-140-watt-280-peak-watt-power-converter-xi14/10999863-P?searchTerm=140+watts

The catch :
The factory rated fuse for my cigarette lighter style vehicle power port that blew after a few seconds is 10a. I popped in a 15a fuse temporarily as a tester to match the 15a draw rating on the 150 watt inverter (the 140 watt inverter draws 13a)
The board started charging and I monitored it from 73% to 98% it was pretty damn satisfying.

( ⚠️ WARNING ⚠️ potential hazard to be taken seriously)
Permanently replacing a 10a fuse with a 15a fuse can lead to "Hot wires" an cause a fire 🔥. Just don't do it. There is a reason the 10a fuse is there.

Permanent plan, for me at least:

I am going to use a fuse tap rated for up to 20a:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00K17M2IU/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_1tG9ybW509X4S

This fuse tap will be running to an unoccupied 20a fuse slot reserved for the Acura MDX tow package.
From there I am going to solder and heat shrink this to the fuse tap:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XZYT4YG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_DHG9ybCFR0YDT

This should do it with the 150 watt inverter. Safely.

For wiring, I recommend using a fuse tap.

When I installed mine, I used this fuse tap, tapped into the windshield wipers circuit, fused with a 5A fuse. I took the power cable included with my camera, cut the lighter outlet adapter off, crimped and heatshrinked the hot wire to the tap. Then added a ring terminal to the ground, and grounded to a bolt near the fusebox that went through the body. Power cable is pushed under and hidden by the passenger-side kicker, A-pillar, and headliner trim.

If you do this, make sure your camera can take 12V in, and that you tap into a non-critical and switched-ignition circuit. Don't tap into things like the fuel pump, radio, or lighting. I like using the wiper circuit for taps because it's almost guaranteed to be switched-ignition, factory fuse has plenty of overhead for a little camera, it's not an immediate safety issue if the fuse blows, and I use the windshield washer often enough to know if the fuse has blown.

Camera is completely hidden behind the rearview mirror - you will not notice it from the inside or outside unless you're specifically looking for it. Also worth mentioning why you want to use switched-ignition. Battery drain is not really significant (car battery will run a dashcam for weeks if not months). The flash memory in SD cards (any flash memory for that matter) wears out over time - constant recording will wear out the card extremely quickly. I replace my SD card annually for this reason.