Reddit reviews Neewer LCD Timer Shutter Release Remote Control for Canon 700D/T5i, 650D/T4i, 500D/T1i, 350D/XT, 400D/XTi, 1000D/XS, 450D/XSi, 60D, 100D, and Pentax Hasselblad Contax Samsung
We found 4 Reddit comments about Neewer LCD Timer Shutter Release Remote Control for Canon 700D/T5i, 650D/T4i, 500D/T1i, 350D/XT, 400D/XTi, 1000D/XS, 450D/XSi, 60D, 100D, and Pentax Hasselblad Contax Samsung. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.
Full functions supported as the camera shutter switch (with halfway or complete pressing)Functions as a timer remote and can be programmed to function as an interval metDesign for group, macro, long exposures, continuous, motion shooting, etc.Energy saving design, can be use for long timeThis digital timer remote is designed to trigger a camera shutter with regular time intervals, featuring self-timer, interval timer, long-exposure timer, and exposure-count settings.
The thing with speeding up video in Premiere is that you are shooting 1/30th of a second per video frame. With a timer/intervelometer on a DSLR you can shoot much longer exposures, picking up faint objects, and then turn them into a movie using Photoshop (use the Animation window in CS5, open an image sequence, save as avi).
I have a Canon T3i too and picked up this generic timer for doing timelapse and exposures longer than 30 seconds. I think the Canon brand timer costs about $125, so the knockoff is a great bargain and works just fine.
There is also the Magic Lantern firmware you can install on your camera that gives you time lapse and other functions. I haven't tried this yet but it sounds like it works well.
I'm not sure if you've shot stars before but it took me a couple of nights out to figure out how to focus. The kit lens on the Canon T3i was not fast enough for me to see the stars in the LCD viewfinder, but I picked up a Canon 50mm/1.8 lens and with that I could see stars in the liveview mode. Set the ISO to max, shutter to BULB, open the lens all the way and point at a bright star in order to focus. Then adjust the ISO down to 800 or so to reduce noise on long exposures. Manual focus and manual exposure. Be sure the camera is in BULB mode if using the timer.
With a 50mm lens you will see a bit of trails on a 30 second exposure, so you might want to see what it looks like with 10 or 15 sec exposures to avoid star trails. I usually experiment with the exposure a bit before starting a long time lapse sequence to check the noise. Shooting shorter duration exposures means getting more pics per hour, and this makes the resulting animation longer/slower when played back at 30fps.
I agree with what was said earlier about having something on the horizon to make the shot more interesting, but with the 50mm lens on a crop sensor camera it's a bit like a small telephoto. Figure out where the meteors are appearing and point at that. There might be a tradeoff between getting something interesting as a point of reference and getting the meteors in the shot. If you can find a lone tree or something that would be good.
This video is helpful and IIRC it's where I picked up the 600 rule for star trails vs. focal length.
edit: This moon phase calendar is handy. I just checked with Sky Safari (planetarium software) and I see that moon rise is at about 1am (DST) on Friday in Albuquerque NM, so plan accordingly. Once the moon rises it will add light pollution and make the stars and meteors harder to see, just FYI. Tho a moonstrike, when the moon comes up and shines on the landscape, can be an interesting moment in a timelapse video. That's a term I picked up from watching Tom Lowe's Timescapes videos. The video he has for sale has some good behind-the-scenes and commentary track too. His work has been an inspiration.
Mine was $15 shipped from amazon.
Ordered this one and ended up getting a Canon one. Mine is from amazon.ca so if you're in the states you could probably find one much cheaper.
Time lapses are done with a little gizmo called an intervelometer. Also ordered mine off amazon.
Pretty easy, you set up your camera settings, plug this bad boy into the side of your camera, set the timer and your camera will keep taking consecutive photos until you stop it based on your settings (or until the battery runs out).
You can then compile the photos in a program like Adobe Lightroom or something similar, I'm sure there may even be a free option out there.
The camera has Bulb (B) exposure mode. Maybe your app can use it for longer exposures? Or get a cheap intervalometer. For AP you will do better with a tracker and the lenses you have. For Northern Lights short (5-10) second exposures are good. They move, so fine detail gets blurred after a few seconds.
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I am at 51°N so darkness will be gone shortly until late July.
An intervalometer will do what you want if your camera has a remote shutter release.
Something like this: https://www.amazon.ca/Neewer-Shutter-Release-Control-Hasselblad/dp/B003WD0IKO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1486048999&sr=8-1&keywords=intervalometer