Reddit reviews Nilight 12V Car Add-A-Circuit Fuse Tap Adapter Mini Atm Apm Blade Fuse Holder-10 Pack, 2 Years Warranty
We found 19 Reddit comments about Nilight 12V Car Add-A-Circuit Fuse Tap Adapter Mini Atm Apm Blade Fuse Holder-10 Pack, 2 Years Warranty. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.
Dual-slot fuse holder: provides one fuse holder to protect existing circuit and a second fuse holder to protect new circuitEasy to use: plugs into Occupied or vacant energized fuse block slot. Easy installation of additional circuits without splicing or cuttingVersatility: Use when hardwiring or adding LED strips, dash cams or other electronic devices that require direct wiring into the fuse boxSuperior quality: made from high-quality materials, good bending performance, melting resistance and excellent electrical conductivityPackage include: 10 x Add-A-Circuit fuse holder, 10 x 15A fuse
The cam I use need two power sources one constant and one that turns off with the ignition
This is what I used to hardwire mine super simple.
Nilight 12V Car Add-A-Circuit Fuse Tap Adapter Mini ATM Apm Blade Fuse Holder-10 Pa... https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B001QRSBW0/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_i_ehhZDbX174K7V
Apeman = Lipo battery = lasts 1 or 2 summers, then dead.
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Budget dash cams:
Best value:
Versatile: Mobius ($70-100 USD) (Requires separate purchase: Power cable or hardwire kit + Micro SD card + adhesive Mount) + recommended purchase Super capacitor - Good video quality, Fair build quality, Lackluster parking mode: Automatic, Not buffered, Requires hardwire kit with low voltage cut off feature to enable parking mode. No wifi/cellphone app. - This isn't the best dash cam in the world, but it is one of the smaller ones. It was made for the drone world, and repurposed for the dash cam world. Lacks Cloud feature. - No GPS - Lacks G sensor (because it is part of the drone world)
Budget Dual Cams:
Last year's Flagship Dual Cams:
This year's Flagship Dual Cams:
Taxi/Uber Cam:
Suggested Hardwire kits:
Things that make hardwiring easier:
I used one of these and one of these
The wiring kit and the add a fuse tap. Get whichever tap for your size fuse in your interior fuse box. Run the wires in the headliner and down the a pillar.
I recommend the a118c dash cam.
https://www.amazon.com/Dash-Camera-Vehicle-Hard-Wire/dp/B00MH4ZVHO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1474857212&sr=8-1&keywords=dash+cam+wiring+kit
https://www.amazon.com/Pico-0956PT-Blade--Circuit-Holder/dp/B001QRSBW0/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1474857229&sr=1-1&keywords=add+a+fuse
I copied this from a response I got when I was researching this.
Most people suggest this one here I am using this but the capacitor version is always suggested over the battery. I haven't run into any issues so far. I can only see the corner of it poking out of my mirror so it doesn't obstruct my view.
I was able to hard wire it with these:
Power adaptor
Fuse add-a-curcuit
The wiring kit and the add a fuse tap. Get whichever tap for your size fuse in your interior fuse box. Run the wires in the headliner and down the a pillar.
I recommend the a118c dash cam.
https://www.amazon.com/Dash-Camera-Vehicle-Hard-Wire/dp/B00MH4ZVHO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1474857212&sr=8-1&keywords=dash+cam+wiring+kit
https://www.amazon.com/Pico-0956PT-Blade--Circuit-Holder/dp/B001QRSBW0/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1474857229&sr=1-1&keywords=add+a+fuse
You could also get a 12v socket - http://www.amazon.com/NOCO-GC018-Socket-Eyelet-Terminal/dp/B00G8WLW2Y/ for instance - tap it off your existing 12v socket fuse with an add-a-fuse - http://www.amazon.com/Pico-0956PT-Blade--Circuit-Holder/dp/B001QRSBW0/ - and hide it all in the dash somewhere. That way you have no permanent mods.
I'm going to need to do some wiring when i install my foglights, and i've read you can use one of these to add a circut without having to do much hardwiring. Should work fine for something like that.
Sounds like a job for an add-a-circuit fuse tap, relay and hardwired into the battery.
Find a fuse that is only powered with the ignition. From there use that as the signal on the relay. Then when the truck turns on, the relay will open and power the plug. Something like the running lights would work.
Supplies you'll want is either a Mini2 blade or micro2 blade fuse tap, depending on what the fuse is. A 12v cigarette lighter plug, and a wiring harness that is long enough to reach the bed from the engine bay. You can also extend it if needed easily. Just dont use the switch, as that will be powered by the fuse tap.
EDIT: I've done something similar except it powers my dashcam. https://imgur.com/a/t95ia
Since it wasnt pulling too much power, I didnt worry about putting a relay in the mix.
https://www.amazon.com/Pico-0956PT-Blade-Circuit-Holder/dp/B001QRSBW0
I have a 2014. Here's my setup.
I used a simple circuit tester like this one in order to find a fuse in the driver's side box that would switch on/off with the car's power.
I went with an A118 capacitor style camera that would hold up better under heat.
I used a simple add-a-fuse adapter into the power-switching fuse that I found, then used an appropriately sized fuse to support my camera but not set the car on fire. Then I soldered the add-a-fuse adapter to a simple 5V hardwire power supply. Don't forget to ground. Finally, it's a matter of mounting the camera (left of rearview mirror in my case), running cables, and plugging in the camera.
It's worked just fine for over 2 years. There's many ways to hardwire a camera, but I was cheap and this is what I did. Hope this helps.
You can be lazy and run it all through a car outlet . Just splice all the wires together into that. Or use [this] (https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001QRSBW0/ref=pd_aw_sim_263_3?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=59A5KQ3EQVZD6APAXB3R) which hides better and it's extremely easy. There's hundreds of thousands of videos on YouTube on how to do this.
Get yourself one of these and some wire and do it yourself. Use a multimeter to test light to find an ignition source of power at your interior fuse box and wire it that way.
get this and put it on your radio fuse if you don't know where to put it.
grab something like this, use whatever fuse you want, personally would use a 15amp like the radio or cig lighter (so youll know if its blown or not since those things wouldnt work - and not something more important). This should work as your car probably has the mini atm fuse, just double check!
http://www.amazon.com/Pico-0956PT-Blade-Add-A-Circuit-Holder/dp/B001QRSBW0/ref=pd_bxgy_263_img_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=0ZS15VAG0M3SACD15GPR
If you have more questions or If you dont want to go this route, let me know and ill message you other scenario details
Just to add to this - if you don't want to splice the wires in just anywhere you can get something like this: Pico 0956PT 10 Amp ATM Mini Blade Fuse Add-A-Circuit Fuse Holder. It allows you to add a circuit right to your fuse panel. I used this for my aftermarket stereo.
You'll also need to get a fuse rated for the power converter or dash cam. You can wire the positive side of the circuit to this and the negative to a bolt on the dash frame.
Note that this is for mini fuses. They make ones for normal sized fuses also.
Edit: also FYI for this application you would put the Add-A-Circuit Fuse Holder in a fuse slot that turns on with the ignition.
Few things to note about replacing the radio in this car, I own a 2001:
I replaced mine with an alpine deck from ebay:
$70 radio
$20 bracket
$7 for harness to plug new radio into old plug
~$10 for wire and fuse holder
Plan on spending 4-6 hours taking apart the dash it's a pain and be careful to not crack the shroud right next to the windshield. It's fairly easy to replace a radio and honestly worth it, especially for bluetooth. You need a screw driver some sockets and a way to splice together wires(I soldered mine together then used heat shrink over them but you might go another route).
After finding out which fuse is an accessory 12v one, that's really all you need. One of these will allow you to draw power without having to do anything messy or splice wires. The + (red) wire for one of these gets connected to the add-a-fuse and the - (black) gets grounded to something metal on the vehicle. You can tuck the wire behind the a-pillar cover and up through the headliner, then drape it behind the rearview camera out of sight.
None of my cars had an accessory socket that stayed active, so I've used these: https://www.amazon.com/Pico-0956PT-Blade-Circuit-Holder/dp/B001QRSBW0/
A 5 amp fuse should be fine for a dash cam. You just have to find a circuit that stays active when the car is off - use a fuse tester or multimeter. The interior lighting fuse is probably constant.