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All I could find is this: http://powerhouse411.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=1_5

There are much cheaper eBay kits, but I think it goes without saying that if you know anything about turbocharging a vehicle you don't want to get an entire kit off of eBay.

You can do it for cheaper if you're handy and want to DIY, I recommend reading both http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/1932494294?pc_redir=1410935474&robot_redir=1

And: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/0837601606?pc_redir=1410868060&robot_redir=1


The first deals heavily into understanding how it all works and makes you more comfortable with the process. The second will teach you everything you need to know about adding a turbo to a (your) vehicle.

Reading these will save you a lot of money if you end up deciding not to turbo your car, or they will build your confidence in it. I think a turbo V6 would be unique instead of the "V8 cop out".

After that do as much research as you can into your vehicle and read up on some v6 turbo builds, I'm sure it's been done. A turbo v6 can end up putting down some serious power (Note: GNX). Reading other builds will give you an idea of the overall cost. If you can part together a decent kit for pretty cheap, you still have to see if the trans and supporting parts can handle it.

http://www.mustangevolution.com/forum/f133/t10565/


If you're still interested after all of that, don't rule out superchargers! Larger engines tend to accept them better and you won't experience any lag.

Honestly if all you want is an aux or bluetooth input you can get a box that connects to the back of your current head unit and adds an Aux input. You then select this input using the CD button because the Camry's headunit supports a CD changer that's accessed by hitting the cd button twice (first to select CD then the second press selects the CD changer). The box basically mimics a CD changer but sends whatever you put in through the Aux.
You can then very cheaply buy a bluetooth adapter online for bluetooth-aux and many of them come with good microphones.

That's what I did myself because I like that it's much more stealth than a new headunit so you're not worrying about people trying to steal your headunit or having to deal with removable faceplates or whatever.

You just need a plastic panel prying kit that you can buy online to help take your dash apart, but it's pretty easy and can be done in maybe 20 minutes. I did end up needing to get a ground loop isolator to cut out engine noise since the Camry was never really designed to have an aux input.

I would take a look at the back of the head unit first actually, because I'm almost sure the 2002 Camry head unit actually uses the same connector as the later models like this and apparently they have very cheap connector units now like this one: https://www.amazon.com/Moonet-Auxillary-Integration-Highlander-Landcruiser/dp/B00ITHJ5BQ They have ones listed for the 2002 but I'm almost sure that's for the older headunit model but you should look at the back of the headunit to make sure this will fit. I bought a pricier one but this was years ago, they still have more expensive kits out there too.

Then you just need a female to female 3.5mm adapter and one of these
https://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-BTC450-Bluetooth-Hands-Free-Input/dp/B009NLTW60/ (I own this one and it's great, but I got it on sale for cheaper than the current price)
https://www.amazon.com/Belkin-Bluetooth-Hands-Free-BlackBerry-Smartphones/dp/B004EHZUYG (this one also has a good mic as well but don't bend the wires too much, I had the wired version and my wiring went bad.

Try cleaning with Invisible Glass and a balled up newspaper. In my experience IG is the best glass cleaner, and the newspaper will clean effectively without leaving lint or streaks. Microfiber cloths (even "lint free" ones) will leave microscopic lint residue that can look like scratches.

I have a '14 Fiesta ST - I've also been around quite a few of them and this is the first I've heard of windshield issues. Could be a defective part, but probably just dirty. Either way Ford has been very good about honoring the warranty. Several of the FiST forums are frequented by Ford service liaisons who are happy to help interface between the owner & dealership - might not be a bad idea to sign up and see if you can get help.

Assuming you have a drill, $13 for a 3M Headlight kit. I drive a 2001 Honda and just did mine, and the difference was quite noticeable. The headlights are much brighter now since it's not being absorbed and redirected by those cloudy-ass lenses.

I'd spend $15 on an OBDII Bluetooth adapter and ~$6 on the premium version of the Torque app so you can read fault codes and real-time engine data.

We're at $34 right now. I'd buy a bottle of rain-x, some microfiber towels, and some cleaning products for my car (glass cleaner, soap, wheel cleaner, etc.), and that might come to another $30, though you could easily spend more if you don't have any cleaning supplies or decide to get all the goodies. I would then spend a few hours and go to town on your car. The few hours I spent were totally worth it when I consider how much more I enjoy driving my car now.

Finally, I'd buy a nice cabin air filter for $15 or so and replace the old one that is probably long overdue (when I replaced mine I found it had never been replaced in the car's 185k service). That will increase the quality of the air coming in quite noticeably.

We're at $79 so far. I would go on your car's forum to see if there are any cheap fixes or improvement you can make to the car. I had a problem where sometime when the car would go over bumps or take a hard turn I would hear this squeaking noise. Turns out that the front suspension bushing can rub against the bare metal surrounding them when they get old, and a few bucks worth of lithium grease will quiet them down to where you can't hear them. Simple, cheap fix that made me love the car more. See if you can find something like that for your accord.

I also think minerdeity's Aux to bluetooth adapter would be great if you have an old car that doesn't have bluetooth.

You probably want this book:

http://www.amazon.com/Keep-Volkswagen-Alive-Step-Step/dp/1566913101

It is about air cooled VWs, but it goes through all the automotive systems. Later chapters cover things like VW disc brakes and fuel injection in the 1960s. It's a clear book with pictures and a humorous approach to the basics of a car. You can start from a point of no knowledge and get a pretty good idea of internal combustion principles.

Good luck!

I can also really recommend the kit /u/schwartzd used. The kit includes sandpaper pads and a foam buffer that you can attach to a power drill. It was a long and kinda tedious process but the more time and care you take the better it will appear. Results also hold up spectacularly as well- previously I had used a Turtle Wax brand hand polishing kit that while did clear up the lens, the hazing was back in as little as three months. I used the 3M kit on my lenses last June and today they are still as clear as the day I bought them.

I've seen the kits go for around ~$30 at auto stores but you can get them much cheaper off Amazon.

These are the two Banish books I'm most familiar with: Engine Management: Advanced Tuning, Designing and Tuning High Performance Fuel Injection Systems. They're pretty similar but the main difference is obvious from the title: the former is just tuning with a little bit of hardware and the second is about half and half hardware and tuning.

I try to remember that the RPi isn't really targeted at hobbyists, it's really an educational board. There are definitely better options if you're willing to give up the support and community. The Banana Pi is looking pretty good as well as the whole ODROID line. Since I'm not a coding guy I would probably be running a tuning PC program hence the requirement of x86.

This seems to be the best one out there for $25

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005NLQAHS/ref=pd_aw_sim_sbs_263_2?ie=UTF8&dpID=41qPjS0dkUL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL100_SR100%2C76_&refRID=0RT24HHDK5X4SK9BK152

Everyone is talking about how awesome and essential it is. Mine should be arriving tomorrow too which is awesome. Good luck!

I tend to think the same way you do. Don't know where to start, just wish I could have someone explain everything and let me ask questions. While I'm sure that exists in the sense that there might be some expert out there willing to sit down and teach it, but what you're asking for is a course and instruction. Again, I'm sure that exists and it will cost money, I don't know where to start with that.

Otherwise it is completely up to you. Start scouring the internet, look through build threads and tuning forums, and read books on the subject. I just finished this one and I think it is a pretty good place to start if you need the basics on turbos. After that I'm moving on to this one to learn more about tuning. Just like most things in life, there is no easy button. If you want to learn it you have to do it yourself.

How about a diagnostic reader? Something like this. Basically if your car has the engine (or another) light on you can plug that in and your phone will tell you what the problem is. You'll need an app like Torque for it to work.

A dashcam is another gift that is something anyone could benefit from, but not everyone would necessarily think to buy for themselves. Over on /r/dashcam they have some really good guides on what to get. Expect to spend about $100, though. It seems like this one is the best bang for your buck according to their guide.

That's what I assumed unfortunately.

I got a $20 scanner on Amazon, and it can check inspection monitors. It's a simple tool, but it will go through the list of monitors (evap, cat, etc.) and tell me if it is ready or not.

I guess I will just have to hope for the best if I don't see any CELs. Thanks for the answer!

You're not going to find one 'decently priced'. Just give up on that ideal right here and now.

VW Nerds like myself, and those who are packed to the rafters at VW Vortex, The Samba, TDI Club, etc, etc. are always on the hunt for aircooleds. You can pretty much rest assured that anything that approaches 'steal' territory will be snatched up within a few days, if not hours.

You're almost guaranteed to pay a ridiculous amount of money for a project, just due to the demand and the market price.

So if you're serious about buying one - set aside an appropriate amount that you're ready to spend at the drop of a hat, and search ads as often as possible. When something pops up, you'll be ready to go.

In my area a $300 Squareback was posted, and it was sold within 2 hours - just as an example.

That said - figure out which generation you want.

Do you want aircooled, or watercooled?

Do you want a T1? T2? T3? Westfalia? What about a Doka?




Aircooled engines are the easiest things you could ever rip apart. This book is the holy grail for aircooled VW's. Anything you could ever want or need to know lies within those pages - or on the Samba.

Watercooled VW engines are all covered by Bentley manuals - just seek one out, and you're golden.

Also, if you're interested, join us over on /r/Fahrvergnugen !

I recommend finding one that supports Apt-X for the best audio quality. I used the BTC450 for a few years and it did a great job. Oddly they put out a newer version that was supposed to avoid the need for a ground loop isolator but the reviews are pretty bad on the new one. If you don't have electrical noise issues I'd probably stick with the BTC450, though I did use a ground loop isolator myself because I was using an Aux to CD changer adapter on my old ass car. I've also used the Belkin variant which I didn't think was as good.

Just make sure you place the mic/remote in a good place so it picks up your voice well and you can easily reach the controls for next/back/pause.

The only issue I can foresee a bit here is that some Buicks keep the cigarette lighter port on all the time even when the car is off, in which case the auto-on models may permanently stay on. When it's unpaired I don't think these use a lot of power but just something to check before using any of these.

Clean your windshield thoroughly. Get some glass cleaner that doesn't have any harsh chemicals in it. I personally use Invisible Glass:

Invisible Glass Premium Glass Cleaner - 19 oz, 91164 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0007OWD2M/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_bAnAzbV5C5N9J.

Don't get the one that has the rain repellant. Spray it on, clean it well with a microfiber. Once you do that I spray some clay bar lube or soapy water (water+dawn) on the windshield and go at it with a clay bar. After claying the whole windshield, I splash some water on it and go at it with the glass cleaner again and dry the windshield. As another said, I apply car was onto the windshield, let it cure, buff it off. Try this and it might stop squeaking since you already tried changing wiper blades. Also, make sure to clean the wipers with glass cleaner too.

I've been using this one for like a year or more.

It does damage the dust things on the CD player but it still plays CDs. I would recommend one if you don't mind that detail. The placement is perfect for me it's just second nature to put my phone there; I see it as part of the car now like a cup holder.

edit: spelling.

Outstanding achievement by Ed Bolian. Definitely recommend reading his book; For the Record: 28:50 - A journey toward self-discovery and the Cannonball Run Record.

If you are into this sort of stuff, you might also find the account of Alex Roy. Roy set the previous record in his M5, breaking a long dry spell in this arena and likely egged Bolian on to try, worth a read or watch. Roy's book is The Driver: My Dangerous Pursuit of Speed and Truth in the Outlaw Racing World. The film, 32 HOURS 7 MINUTES, is also worth a watch.

And for all those couch pilots saying how easy this record would be to break; let us know how it goes!

avoid FM transmitters.

They don't work very well. There are lots of ways you can get audio from your phone to your car stereo.

The cheapest way to do it correctly is an FM Modulator, these hook up directly into your car's antenna port. I had this one. Does require removal of the radio to plug into the antenna port, and it needs a power and a ground tapped into. But this way is totally worth it, if you don't want to tackle it yourself, a shop would probably charge about $50 to install it.

I wouldn't ever suggest an FM transmitter because you probably will be constantly fiddling with it while driving due to its un-reliable signal broadcasting, and the cheaper it is, the worse it will be at giving good signal.

Alternatively, the best way to go is just to replace your radio, JVC has a couple of cool inexpensive radios that are under $100, they have USB connectivity for iPods and iPhones, and also have bluetooth for handsfree calling and A2DP streaming (wireless audio streaming). I had one of these in my SVT Focus, it took about 15 seconds after starting the car for the radio to pair with the phone, but it would automatically start playing the last song I had playing in my music app, so there wasn't any fiddling with the phone every time I got in the car.

Edit: THIS is the newer model of the JVC I used to have, sounded really good too. Note that this doesn't have an optical slot.

Oh, I completely understand passing on that car. Sounds like nothing was maintained.

Still, get one, they are very very useful, and cheap. Only $13 for an Android BT reader on Amazon - $18 if you need iOS. If you have Android, download Torque ($5 for paid version, but even free is very good.)

That under $25 set will have more features than the $200-$400+ readers still sold in autostores... and are more up to date, and can easily interface with the web for more code information.

I bought my first car in 1984, a '71 Beetle, for $300 when I was in high school. It had over 200K miles on it. Me and my buddy dropped a $450 rebuilt engine in it in my dad's driveway and neither of us were mechanics, but we were armed with a copy of How to Keep Your Volkswagen Alive.

That Beetle ran pretty well for 8 years until I sold it for $500. My Beetle was not seen by me as "the car to have", by any stretch of the imagination, but at the time it was the only car I could afford. Although it had a few quirky problems, I remember it fondly. The car was as basic a vehicle as it could possibly be. So simple it was kind of charming. Still, I would have preferred a GTO.

When I drove it for long periods of time, it would vapor lock. Air would get in the gas line feeding the carburetor when the engine got hot and the engine would quit. Sometimes you just had to wait by the side of the road for the engine to cool down, then it would be fine again. Sometimes when I was going down a large hill, I would shut the engine off and coast to cool the engine. Later I relocated the fuel line away from the engine, and eliminated that problem.

Although the car would go in the snow like nothing I've ever owned since, there was almost no heat. Most of the car would remain at the outside temperature, but the driver's side vent would keep my left foot comfortably toasty no matter how cold it was. I had to keep an ice scraper in the car to remove the frost buildup. On the inside.

The windshield wiper fluid was powered by the pressure in the spare tire. I would over inflate the spare to get good pressure. The one time I got a flat and needed the spare, it had no air in it.

One winter, I backed the car down somebody's icy driveway and parked. It was one of the rare times I got the car stuck. My wheels couldn't get traction and just spun futility. My Vdub was a two speed auto-stick (no clutch), I put it in 2nd, got the wheels spinning, opened the driver door, got halfway out and gave it a shove. The wheels gripped and the car got away from me as it trundled up the driveway, across the street, through a neighbor's fence, finally coming to a rest against a tree.

No. They're pads that go under your factory seat cover and are wired to a 12v power source directly. Like so.
Pretty easy to install, just have to pull out your seats, pull off the cover, tape it on, reverse the process and wire it up. Takes a while, but it's not really hard to do. I'm pretty sure automotive interior shops do installs for cheap too.

I drive a Scion iA (2016) and found these heating pads for heated seats. I installed them and they work great but there are sensors on the seat and now, the airbag light flashes on my instrument cluster and the passenger airbag light doesn't even turn on. I checked all the wiring to make sure they're plugged in and unplugged the battery for 15 minutes. So far it hasn't worked. I'll probably just take out the pads that are on the part of the seat where the butt goes. There's a pad on the vertical portion of the seat, where your back leans against it. I hope that fixes the airbag thing, but anyone else have any suggestions?

Actual link so others can see more easily: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NLQAHS

Yep, that's the one I have. Works like a charm for two years now.

These work great. Goes between antenna and radio for the best quality possible.

https://www.amazon.com/iSimple-IS31-Antenna-Modulator-Aftermarket/dp/B002U5XPBE

I've had good luck with this one and Torque free.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_C27UCbTN54J61

You have to run A/C to get rid of fog.

For cleaning window interiors I use Stoners Invisible Glass cleaner and a reach and clean wand. This usually leaves streaks, so I have a big pack of super fresh cotton cosmetic pads that I wipe the windshield down with after, disposing them as they lint up. I use fresh cotton pads on the interior instead of a microfiber because my towels often get contaminated with wax, and I don't want to accidentally smear wax inside my car.

Right, I'm saying that I can do all of this already with the cheap hardware on the market (example).

You do get what you pay for, but it does work. The Android app Torque is what made these interfaces even more popular.

There are better interfaces on the market, which can be used with devices such as the Arduino (example)

I've stored a bunch of cars.

Buy a battery tender:
https://smile.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-021-0123-lightweight-automatic/dp/B000CITK8S/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1499787047&sr=1-4&keywords=battery+tender

Make sure it has a full tank of fuel.

And that's about it if all you're doing is storing it for a winter.

A cover is a nice-to-have to keep it from collecting a huge layer of dust/grime and to protect it from a winter of people brushing against it if it's in the flow of traffic.

Do not put it on jack stands. Dangling wheels aren't good for all the rubber bits in your suspension. Just make sure there's air in your tires and they'll be fine after seasonal storage.

The most you will probably hear here is don't use Armor All cleaners for the surfaces (do more harm than good and leave a bright sheen) and visit /r/autodetailing.

These are just items I have used personally and would recommend:
Best interior cleaner I have found is Meguiar's Interior Cleaner with some microfiber towels.

Haven't had to deal with anything for anti-fogging, but for windows I use Stoner's Invisible Glass. It's a little too good in my opinion, now I have to figure out how to fix 6 little nicks in my windshield I wouldn't have noticed otherwise...

Maximum Boost by Corky Bell is an excellent resource for understanding turbos. I loved it. http://www.amazon.com/Maximum-Boost-Turbocharger-Engineering-Performance/dp/0837601606

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00TXR2P40/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1481304175&sr=8-2&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=dash+cam+black+box&dpPl=1&dpID=41m3ffJV8RL&ref=plSrch


https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00P8F3LD0/ref=mp_s_a_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1481304175&sr=8-3&pi=SX200_QL40&keywords=dash+cam+black+box&dpPl=1&dpID=41jiRifcioL&ref=plSrch


Two very solid dashcams. /r/dashcam can be of help too! :)

How to keep your Volkswagen alive. http://www.amazon.com/Keep-Volkswagen-Alive-Step-Step/dp/1566913101
Yes they focus on old Volkswagens but you'll learn a lot about general car maintenance and how they work plus it a fun read and written in non-auto speak for the average person to understand. Most of it will apply to any car you own.

No problem, if you are quite worried I recommend that you purchase a Bluetooth OBDII scanner. They pair directly to Android phones and show you exactly what your engine is doing at all times through apps like Torque. They are cheap too, around $20. Your call though as I am 99.9% certain the variation is 100% normal. I spoke to a mechanic at work about the vibration and he says that he has a fairly simple test. If the car vibrates while in park or in gear at a red light, it may be the fault of the transmission mounts. If it stops or gets less noticeable when put in neutral, it may be the engine mounts. There are many other possibilities like timing chains being off but as I said before, hard to tell without physically seeing the vehicle. Here's a link to the OBDII tool if interested. Hope you get everything sorted out!

https://www.amazon.ca/Veepeak-Bluetooth-Scanner-Android-Diagnostic/dp/B011NSX27A/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1457990220&sr=8-1&keywords=obd2

After rewatching the video, meltedsurfwax may be on to something. Sounds almost like loose trim. Didn't see videos before due to being on mobile.

You could wire in your own seat heaters. Something similar to this. I out some in my wife's car and they work great. Installing requires you to take your seat apart though. A good interior detailing also goes a long way.

I've got one of these, works great and is pretty cheap. I hid the little input/switch panel in the storage space under the radio.

I've tried a few Bluetooth->AUX audio kits, but this Kinivo model is the best. It's cheap, too.

For best ease of use, I used an audio input FM modulator which basically adds an aux input and hijacks the antenna at the flick of a switch.

Check this book out:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/0837601606/?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Excellent resource. You'll learn quite a bit. Volumetric Efficiency, sizing turbos, proper air/fuel ratios, etc.

I've been making my way through this recently, I think it's exactly what you're looking for. Although my next step is to find one that goes more in depth!

Amazon has a ton of great car books.

A fantastic book I highly recommend is How Cars Work. It covers everything from pushrod and dohc engines to the AC system. It's written in a non technical way and really a quick read.

I think that /u/rld14 pretty much covered it. But there are a few things I would add. Some of these may not apply to you, but this thread could be useful to others.

• Put the battery on a Battery Tender. You can do this in the storage unit if there is a power outlet (unlikely), or you can take the battery home and hook it up there.
  
  
• Add a fuel conditioner like STA-BIL to prevent the ethanol in the fuel from absorbing water. This should be done in addition to filling up the tank completely.
  
  
• If you don't know what kind of washer fluid was used, make sure to drain the washer tank. The previous owner may have used a summer blend that is not freeze resistant.
  
  
• Check the coolant/anti-freeze with a coolant tester If your coolant is old or too dilute it could freeze in the block during storage. That would be a nasty surprise come spring!

I wired up an FM Modulator so I could get an AUX jack in my old 9-3. Since the head unit is so tightly tied to the car (and the SID and it's all fiber) it's hard to modify it. That was the best solution I could find to make it sorta useable.

My FM modulator was a bit different as it was just a standard small toggle switch, so I used one of the blank covers and drilled and dremeled it and mounted the toggle switch in there.

I had bad luck with those little blue ones. They're good because they are small, but for some reason mine couldn't talk to a few cars I tried it on. A friend had a similar experience.

https://smile.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-34t5-Bluetooth-Android/dp/B005NLQAHS/

That one is a bit more, but it's worked every time I used it and seems to connect to BT quicker.

There are some good comments here already so I'll just recommend Maximum Boost if you want to read up on turbocharging.

Once you get through the basics and start looking into performance, I would suggest "Maximum Boost" by Corky Bell. It is pretty much the gospel of turbocharging. Amazon link

You can get an antenna bypass FM modulator, it plugs between your FM antenna and the antenna input. This is better than the FM transmitter method, especially if you live in an area with a saturated FM band.

Good example: https://www.amazon.com/iSimple-IS31-Antenna-Modulator-Aftermarket/dp/B002U5XPBE

I use the 3m kit plus this sealant and it has personally worked out pretty well for me, but I'm a pretty amateur detailer.

I also have done a decent amount of side work with it and prefer to do the lower grits by hand and use a drill/polisher for the 2000 grit sand + polish.

Edit: I'll add it's probably not a permanent solution, but on my previous vehicle I had a lot of trouble with cheaper "headlight protectants" and it would slowly start to yellow after 4 months. Not major, but enough for a detailers' eye to notice. With the meguiars I never noticed it again.

http://www.amazon.com/3M-39008-Headlight-Restoration-System/dp/B001AIZ5HY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1410403758&sr=8-1&keywords=3m+headlight+restoration+kit

3Ms kit is amazing. It works wonders. The one "with protectant" isn't worth the $10 premium, they just include a packet of wax that you might as well just buy a whole bottle of separately.

An actual mechanic would probably have some super fancy diagnostic tool, but you can buy a personal OBDII that bluetooths to your phone really well for like $20 on Amazon

Does it have the 6 CD changer? If so, you may be able to install an FM Modulator. If it has the 6 CD changer it's the same head unit as my '01 Escape so I know it will work. Take the head unit out, wire the modulator to the power and the ground, and disconnect the antenna from the radio, plug it into that, and plug that into the radio. Then you have an auxiliary input that sounds just as good as CD quality. The one I linked to is the one I've used for over 3 years now with no hassle. If you're interested, PM me for more details about the installation.

https://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-BTC450-Bluetooth-Hands-Free-Input/dp/B009NLTW60/ref=sr_1_27?s=wireless&ie=UTF8&qid=1540488408&sr=1-27&keywords=Aux+Bluetooth

​

I have it, Works great

Go get this. Use as directed and your headlights will be as clear and shiny as new.

BTW, don't get any other brand. I've used them and they all pretty much suck. The 3m stuff I linked to is like freekin magic.

https://www.amazon.com/Nulaxy-Wireless-Bluetooth-Transmitter-Smartphones/dp/B018E0I01I/


I use this in my 92 Miata and it works great!

Yes, like this. They also have a Bluetooth one. iSimple IS31 Antenna Bypass FM Modulator for Factory or Aftermarket Car Radios https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002U5XPBE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_ei.7CbB0AJ060

http://www.amazon.com/Black-Box-1920x1080-G1W-Dashboard/dp/B00FONBG1A

For the money, it's one of the best ones you can buy

I use this + the torque app and it works great
https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Scanner/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=sr_1_2_sspa?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1543017063&sr=1-2-spons&keywords=Bluetooth+obd2&psc=1

If you aren't super picky and just want it to work, a wired FM modulator is a pretty good solution. Not too much work (just need power, and plugs in where your antenna goes in). Wireless is usually way too noisy. An aftermarket stereo is probably an even better option, but that could be a bit more money.

I like the BAFX reader off Amazon.

Tells you sooooo much cool stuff and casts it right to your smartphone.

I just bought this with a 32gb card for it. its amazing http://www.amazon.com/Black-Box-1920x1080-G1W-Dashboard/dp/B00FONBG1A

I got this a while back when it was on sale for $50. It is a great dash cam, although i have yet to use it in any real world issues.

The resolution is fantastic (its 1080p) for a small dash cam and while the built in mic isn't the best, the only thing it gets used for is recording my awful singing voice.

The book is an excellent read:
https://www.amazon.com/Driver-Dangerous-Pursuit-Outlaw-Racing/dp/0061374997

I'll go first, personally any type of wireless OBDII blutooth device that links with a smart phone. Troubleshoot check engine and get live stats of how your car is running. Not to mention it's usually cheaper than a full blown code reader.


https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-34t5-Bluetooth-Android/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1479145100&sr=1-4&keywords=obdii+bluetooth

Have the Subaru inspected by a good mechanic for head gasket leaks (internal and external leaking signs). A leakdown test is a good test for them to do, and ask if they can try the radiator hydrocarbon test as an option, also known as a Combustion Leak Detector test.

Also, find out when the timing belt & water pump replacement was done last -- if it hasn't then you'd have to plan on it soon as the replacement schedule is at 105k miles. If the belt snaps all your valves will bend = trashed motor.

This one worked well for me, I bought one of the little blue cheap ones and it caused my ABS compute to go nuts on my toyota and wouldn't work on our ford. This one works fine with both IIRC.

http://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-Bluetooth-diagnostics-Android/dp/B005NLQAHS

Although I get so much use out (datalogging) of it I might buy one of the nice $70 ones in the future.

they are pretty cheap...theres also cables you can hook up to your android phone and do the same thing

I use it in my 04 Subaru wrx with the bafx adapter http://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=cm_sw_r_udp_awd_Yi9rub0RQMT7Y

Very useful tool for check engine lights and general diagnostics. Makes an incredible amount of data available to the home mechanic.

use a slight dab of liquid gasket, I put it on my finger and just put a paper thin coat on both sides after cleaning the pushrod tube, block, and head with a cleaner that can remove oil/grease.

Best book ever if you dont have access to an old school vw mechanics locally for advise http://www.amazon.com/Keep-Volkswagen-Alive-Step-Step/dp/1566913101

OP get this. It auto connects and goes through your aux so music quality is better than BT.

https://www.amazon.com/Kinivo-BTC450-Bluetooth-Hands-Free-Input/dp/B009NLTW60

https://www.amazon.com/Nulaxy-Wireless-Bluetooth-Transmitter-Smartphones/dp/B018E0I01I/ref=mp_s_a_1_4?keywords=car+radio+transmitter&qid=1559200293&s=gateway&sprefix=car+rad&sr=8-4 had this one for a year and was good quality sounds 90% of the time the other 10% just had to repair on a new station.

Maximum Boost: Designing, Testing and Installing Turbocharging Systems

The cheapest usuable cam is widely regarded to be G1W, which can be purchaced from Amazon for $60 (Make sure to use that link, there are knockoffs on Amazon as well but that's the real link)

> rear-view mirror with compass

i said the same thing a few years back. The new ones are actually really good. I've had 0 problems with mine. Worth trying.
https://www.amazon.com/Nulaxy-Wireless-Bluetooth-Transmitter-Adapter/dp/B018E0I01I/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1480507866&sr=8-3&keywords=fm+transmitter

I use this to keep my vehicle's battery fresh:

https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-021-0123-Junior-Charger/dp/B000CITK8S/ref=sr_1_4?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1522698360&sr=1-4&keywords=battery+tender

It's all automatic, there isn't anything to adjust and you could keep it on your battery indefinitely.

I finally bought one of these. I keep it in my car, I have a nagging P0420 code that pops up every once in awhile and it's much easier to read and clear than having to pay someone else or go to Autozone.

I bought the cheapest one off of Amazon (~$15) and it has served me faithfully for 3 years and has no learning curve.

Edit: This one.

A wall wart is where the transformer is built into the plug, usually a black cube about 2" with the dc wire coming off of it. The idea would be to have the AC to DC happen at the end of the AC line.

Like this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004LX3AS6/ref=sxbs_sxwds-rbp2?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_p=2898770402&pd_rd_wg=jcBEg&pf_rd_r=R31605ND3DRXBXHCFY0C&pf_rd_s=desktop-sx-bottom-slot&pf_rd_t=301&pd_rd_i=B004LX3AS6&pd_rd_w=JJTWW&pf_rd_i=battery+tender&pd_rd_r=JABMBT6QPDBKXR44DGY0&ie=UTF8&qid=1491332230&sr=2 or this: https://www.amazon.com/Battery-Tender-021-0123-lightweight-automatic/dp/B000CITK8S/ref=pd_sbs_263_1?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B000CITK8S&pd_rd_r=DE87QSEWNR2XHEWDTBQQ&pd_rd_w=AtVc4&pd_rd_wg=wduLj&psc=1&refRID=DE87QSEWNR2XHEWDTBQQ



You can always use a bigger wire than required to carry current, the length might be an issue but the currents are so low so it wouldn't be a concern esp. with the bigger wire, as long as you can make the connectors work.

Here are the connectors I was picturing. I use them for my RC batteries. You can clip the red and black together. https://www.amazon.com/Anderson-Power-Products-Silver-Contacts/dp/B00BN0WMA2/ref=pd_cp_23_4?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B00BN0WMA2&pd_rd_r=2MKMXG57SB6NNP5BP3QG&pd_rd_w=HMJVM&pd_rd_wg=PTBBq&psc=1&refRID=2MKMXG57SB6NNP5BP3QG

Try this on for size: http://www.amazon.com/The-Driver-Dangerous-Pursuit-Outlaw/dp/0061374997

I can confirm this is a really compelling read.

It's not that hard to figure out a blown head gasket. Remove the radiator cap/resevoir cap and start the car. If you see bubbles coming out, it's probably blown. If you put your hand over the hole and it rapidly builds pressure, it's REALLY blown.

You don't want the car to run long enough to get hot and possibly burn you, when you're doing this.

We use this tool to be sure, the fluid will change colors if it's exhaust gas:

https://www.amazon.com/Lisle-75500-Combustion-Leak-Detector/dp/B0007ZDRUI/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1473001356&sr=8-3&keywords=block+tester

1. amazon
   
   http://www.amazon.com/gp/part-finder/slide-show/2000/BMW/540i/ref=au_pf_cr_automotive_L2_Wipers?ie=UTF8&carId=004&partsNode=15734781&pf_rd_p=1364510422&pf_rd_s=center-1&pf_rd_t=1601&pf_rd_i=B004CGFPN0&pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_r=0WJX6RNCGX54FAZHYZFQ
   
   
2. assuming you have a drill,
   
   http://www.amazon.com/3M-39008-Headlight-Restoration-System/dp/B001AIZ5HY/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1376423638&sr=1-1&keywords=headlight+restore+kit
   
   
3. youd need a new bumper. thats around $600 painted.

> I'm just worried Canadian Tire is going to list out a bunch of stuff for me to fix

I think you can count on that. That's why they DO inspections.

> How often should I change my oil?

On a beater? Every 5K to 7K miles, regardless of time.

> I don't want to pay $100 just for them to run the code

You can buy a code reader on Amazon for $20, and it can also reset the light. Of course, the light will just come on again soon if there really is a problem.

I have this one: http://www.amazon.com/Autel-MaxiScan-MS300-Diagnostic-Vehicles/dp/B001LHVOVK

Works great.

32 Hours 7 Minutes was the time set by the original cannonballer's in 1970 while the 31:04 was the time Alex Roy set in 2004(?).

The film is called 32 Hours 7 Minutes because it was originally supposed to be about the coast to coast races, and involved Alex Roy because he was willing to front up some cash and let his attempts be filmed.

Alex Roy has a book on amazon called The Drive which show's a little bit of the 32 Hours 7 Minutes, but it's mostly about his 31:04 coast to coast and his history Gumballing before that.

For those who do not know, about 95+% of the bluetooth OBDII dongles on the market are based on the ELM327 chip or a clone of it:

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/ELM327#Pirate_clones

ELM sells the chip to a manufacturer for not very cheap who then turns it into a finished product like:

https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-34t5-Bluetooth-Android/dp/B005NLQAHS/

The clones generally work fine almost all of the time, but the updated genuine ELM chip covers more edge cases. You can tell the clones from the real ones pretty easily (the price and construction are a dead giveaway). So if you decide to get a clone, there's no need to waste money - ebay is much better than amazon for this purpose: https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_nkw=elm+327&_sacat=0&_sop=15&LH_PrefLoc=3&LH_BIN=1

I feel your pain brother, 2006 Cadillac CTS. The good news is that I can vouch for this. Totally worth the money.

Many referred me to this book.

I have very little experience, but I have learned that you need to find out what your known values are (airflow, fuel pressure, timing) and adjust the fuel maps. Knowing exactly what your Air to Fuel ratio is a must. Once you have a target A/F ratio in mind, use your known parameters and adjust your fuel accordingly.

What is the output of your logs?

If I buy one like this, can I leave it plugged in all the time? I have one currently that I have to plug in and unplug every time I want to use it. Not that that's a huge issue - it's right in front of the gas pedal - but if I can find a small form-factor one I wouldn't mind leaving it connected at all times.

Exactly. I am just a basic DIY mechanic so I didn't really want to spend that kind of money on a scan tool. The torque app is $5 dollars. I bought [this] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NLQAHS/ref=oh_details_o04_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1) OBDII reader as well. So far it has done everything I have needed. Ill link the app as well, it can really do quite a lot of things.
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.prowl.torque

Wired FM modulator. Works with any car and you won't get the drop in quality you would get with a wireless transmitter.

While I can't answer all that, this is the book you want:

http://www.amazon.com/Maximum-Boost-Turbocharger-Engineering-Performance/dp/0837601606

You can sub to channels like Engineering Explained. /Drive also had a small series where they brought in different people from different areas of cars to give their input. They had exhaust people, engine builders, turbo specialists, etc.

Engineering Explained

Drive Playlist

I started reading this by Tom Newton. Once I read the entire thing I then started to research into each category specifically.

If you have a cigarette lighter, use this. https://www.amazon.com/Nulaxy-Wireless-Bluetooth-Transmitter-Adapter/dp/B018E0I01I

It transmits through bluetooth and it also comes with an aux cable if you want to plug in an iPod or mp3 player. I use it on my 2001 Acura MDX. Let me know if you have any questions.

If you just need to clear codes then disconnecting and reconnecting the battery will do that for you. If you want a code reader anyway then I bought this code reader that has worked well with the Torque app. Only complaint is that it only updates about every second so horsepower, torque, and 0-60 don't get good readings. No idea if it is the dongle, app, or just what OBDII can do but something to be aware of.

Of course it's written by Alex Roy. Because of course it is.

http://www.amazon.com/Driver-Dangerous-Pursuit-Outlaw-Racing/dp/0061374997

I don't remember that part from the book

https://www.amazon.com/Driver-Dangerous-Pursuit-Outlaw-Racing/dp/0061374997

Coming from someone who is very into cars and hungry to learn about them, this book was recently referred to me.

[As far as I'm concerned this is the holy bible of turbo applications.] (https://www.amazon.com/Maximum-Boost-Turbocharger-Engineering-Performance/dp/0837601606)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/0966862309/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

How to keep your Volkswagen alive

You can either try a a restoration kit, or spend more on all-new lenses.

It depends on how much of a $/improvement ratio you're looking for.

Here are some links for the product in the above comment for different countries:

Link: http://www.amazon.com/Scosche-FM-MOD02-Universal-Modulator-Satellite/dp/B001QBG614/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1397225185&sr=8-1&keywords=FM+modulator

• UK: amazon.co.uk
  
• Canada: amazon.ca
  
  
  This bot is currently in testing so let me know what you think by voting (or commenting).

CD Player phone mount.

Non-mobile: CD Player phone mount

^That's ^why ^I'm ^here, ^I ^don't ^judge ^you. ^PM ^/u/xl0 ^if ^I'm ^causing ^any ^trouble. ^WUT?

http://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-PIC18F2480-diagnostics-compatible/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=lp_15707381_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1381446790&sr=1-1

If you have an android you can do this for $28 to any car with an obd2 port.
Buy the bluetooth obd2 reader...

http://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-PIC18F2480-diagnostics-compatible/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1369776856&sr=8-1&keywords=odb2+bluetooth

Then download the torque pro app to your phone.
https://play.google.com/store/apps/details?id=org.prowl.torque&hl=en

I use the track recorder plugin to see my autocross run speeds and lateral Gs and such.

This one: https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005NLQAHS/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1479392793&sr=8-1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=obd2+bluetooth

this?

If you have an Android phone get one of THESE and then THIS app for your phone. $29 and you can read your codes and learn a lot more about what your car's doing.

The sensor probably works with iPhone too, but I've never tried it.

Here check this. Not limited to this one. Check around. https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-34t5-Bluetooth-Android/dp/B005NLQAHS

G1W http://www.amazon.com/Black-Box-Original-Dashboard-Dash/dp/B00FONBG1A

Out of curiosity, what's your monthly auto premium?

Oh and P.S. buy a fucking dash cam

http://www.amazon.com/Black-Box-Original-Dashboard-Dash/dp/B00FONBG1A this?

The highly rated cheap one is known as a G1W. http://www.amazon.com/Black-Box-Original-Dashboard-Dash/dp/B00FONBG1A

My Dashcam turns off when I turn off my car. So it wouldn't have been on anyway. But having a dashcam is essential. You should get one.

-edit- My dashcam has those same functions and I bought the hardwire kit but it is connected to 12v switched so it doesn't drain my battery.

https://www.amazon.com/Black-Box-G1W-CB-Capacitor-Camera/dp/B00P8F3LD0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1492953868&sr=8-2&keywords=g1w-cb

G1W dash cam. The one with the capacitor so the battery doesn't blow up.

Review

Amazon link

There are 30 different brands of these, but they're all identical.

I've got this this. Can I do it with this thing?

Your choice are:

• Cassette tape adapter
  
• FM transmitter
  
• Or replace the radio

I didn't know. Well, you can buy one online for $20 though.

http://www.amazon.com/Autel-MaxiScan-MS300-Diagnostic-Vehicles/dp/B001LHVOVK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1325197785&sr=8-1

They're only $50-100 on Amazon. The expense (or time) to install them properly is in the labor. You can pay an upholstery shop ~$150-300 to install them or buy the tools and follow Youtube tutorials.

Does your car have a CD player and an aux input? In my old car these two products were excellent:

https://www.amazon.ca/Kinivo-BTC450-Bluetooth-Hands-Free-Input/dp/B009NLTW60

https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B016GNYZIC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

If you're already happy with the mount you have you don't need the second one, I really liked mine though. When I was car shopping I really put a premium on Apple CarPlay but now I realize it's still shitty if your car is powered by an underpowered Android tablet from 5 years ago, which it appears most new cars are.

Not just size of the turbine.. many factors such as distance the charge needs to travel through the intercooling, the pressure of the charge, the temperature, the AF mix.. too many to type without writing a book.... Take midareashi's advice and get Maximum Boost.

You want this book. Be aware that the concepts are math heavy.

This book may also be helpful, I've never read that one so I can't say.

The guy who wrote the first book - Greg Banish - was a tuner for several manufacturers and taught a tuning class/seminar for a while.

This. Pick up any Android phone for uber-cheap (just has to have bluetooth and Android 2.0 or higher), buy Torque for $5, and buy one of these adapters for $24 Prime.

Total cost would be around $50-75 depending on the phone, and then you have an emergency phone, too.

/u/Doug-demuro you need an fm transmitter that connects between your head unit and antenna plug and is powered. You can plug into he transmitted via aux or use a Bluetooth adapter. I get 0 interference.

I use this one and have 0 complaints other than the slightly more tedious initial install. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B002U5XPBE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_yfPuzb0M9NP1A

I'm on iOS so it requires a low power bluetooth adapter so I got this.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073XKQQQW/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Then I bought OBD Fusion off the App Store.

If you run Android then this will work and is cheaper.

https://www.amazon.com/Veepeak-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Supports-DashCommand/dp/B011NSX27A/ref=sr_1_7?crid=29Y0KSBTGU65U&keywords=veepeak+obd2&qid=1573319560&s=automotive&sprefix=veepeak%2Cautomotive%2C211&sr=1-7

Every air-cooled VW owner needs at least one copy of this book.

Preferably more than one - one go use and get dirty, one to keep in the house.

Do you have a CD player? I've used this one for years, but there are a number of cheaper versions now. The only downside to them is they might lose their grip over time and try to spring open, but I opened mine up and solved that by clipping and stretching the spring. Or, they're cheap enough that you could just buy a new one if that happens.

sounds like the head gasket.

you probably can sniff the exhaust after driving it and smell coolant coming from there. Its also trashing the catalytic converter by running coolant through it.

The gasket fails on the exhaust side of the gasket, coolant wont leak into the oil, nor will it blow blue smoke because its usually a very slow leak, the system will hold pressure, and depending upon how bad the gasket is you may not see any major symptoms.

As the gasket fails more what you will get is a little bit of coolant will leak into the combustion chamber(s) if it sits overnight, then on cold start it will misfire or idle funny for about 2 or 3 seconds, then it will smooth itself out.

This is a good home tester, you put the chemical into the tube and hold it over the radiator cap, if the fluid changes yellow from blue that means exhaust gas is getting into the coolant. This was how I determined what was wrong with my civic.

Had the head gasket done about 12K miles ago and haven't had any issues since. The shop resurfaced the head, did the timing belt and water pump along with a fresh set of spark plugs and a new serpentine belt to the tune of about $1200.

This:

http://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-34t5-Bluetooth-Android/dp/B005NLQAHS?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00


That, a magnet and sock, a VIN checking website subscription, a friend and a flashlight are the best tools to check on a used car.

Flashlight to inspect crevices.

Friend to start the car from cold while you inspect the color of the exhaust. Then, shift in and out of first and reverse to see if the engine is stable. Then, the friend depresses the clutch, and you listen for chatter. Then a few WoT and you look and listen.

Magnet goes in the sock and you touch it to suspect areas. If it falls, there was rust repair (or it's a plastic panel. Haha).

The reader will scan for any fault codes that currently exist. It will not look for old codes, but it'll tell you if its a O2 sensor or misfire.

A VIN checking website subscription like AutoCheck or CarFax to check if there have ever been accidents or if there's a healthy service record. For that matter, demand all the service records. If they don't have them, don't believe anything they say, and imagine that the vehicle has never had service.

I say all of this as a guy who got fucked each time he bought a used car. My GTI had a hidden accident I could have found with a magnet. My wife's Passat was a lemon (legally. It failed six times under the previous owner), but it wasn't revealed at the time of purchase, and we didn't check the VIN. And more. Three more. Which accounts for five of the five used vehicles I've bought.

No worries.

​

You need to start with figuring out why they want you to replace your entire exhaust system. Is it throwing a code? Is it rusted to pieces?

​

Your car is fitted with 2 Cats, 3 O2 sensors, a resonator and a muffler. The absolute most expensive component will be the first cat, as it is part of the Exhaust Manifold. The cheapest one I could find from a half-reputable source is here at 350$. The rest of the system is pretty much bog standard and can be done by ANY exhaust shop without official parts. They probably also want you to replace the O2 sensors. These are generally expensive items but you are pretty lucky. You should have 3 of them. Upstream, Center and downstream.

​

If you absolutely have to replace the whole system, do some research for reputable exhaust shops. Just google it and look at reviews. Talk to a shop of your choosing and ask them if you can provide the Exhaust manifold and sensors, and if they would be willing to do the rest. Since after the exhaust manifold, its a bone simple exhaust, a shop with a good welder will be able to throw together an exhaust for you from basic components in less than a day and much cheaper than buying all the pieces separately. Some shops will want to charge you more than 200$ for the second cat. Give them the finger and buy the secondary from RockAuto. At that point its just some pipe bending, a resonator and a muffler. I would be surprised if they want more than 300$. if you include both cats. That puts you at 470$ for the 2 cats, 75$ for all sensor and 300-400$ for the rest. That puts you under 1k$ for the whole system.

​

The more likely scenario, is that they are just pissed off at a code your car is throwing (Your check engine light should be on in this case), I would start with buying a cheap OBD reader, or going to an OReilly's/AutoZone to get your ECU read and write down the code.

Here's one that will work with an Android Phone.

Here's one that will work with an iPhone.

Once you get the exact code the ECU is throwing, it'll tell you which sensor is unhappy.

Sensor 1: Either bad sensor or engine running poorly.

Sensor 2: Either bad sensor or the cat is not heating up properly.

Sensor 3: Either bad sensor or the cat is not burning up remaining fuel correctly.

From there you should be able to troubleshoot and fix the problem. Since sensors are 25$, I would start with those.

​

One last thing, did they shove something in your exhaust during the check? Ford's emission systems are ridiculously lenient, and often will not trigger sensor faults even if the cat is in shreds and missing most of its honeycomb. In that case, change your cats and forget about the rest of the system.

​