Reddit reviews PoE Texas POE-USB-Kit | Compatible with iPad or Android Tablet with Female USB and Micro-USB Adapters - Extend Power Via PoE Ethernet Cable up to 328 Feet with 5 Volts 10 Watts Output and Divided Data

• cat6 ethernet EVERYWHERE and more than you think you'll need. I'd also suggest getting different colors for different purposes: blue for ethernet, red for cameras/poe, grey for general use, etc. Ethernet can be used for:
  
  -- computers
  -- cameras
  -- access points & other PoE gear
  -- generic low-voltage wiring
  -- fire alarms
  -- sensors
  -- HDMI
  -- doorbells
  -- window-blind & shade control
  -- smart appliances (so put one behind where the fridge, washer & dryer and, dish washer will go)
  -- smart mirrors (so put drops behind where the bathroom mirrors will go)
  -- etc.
  
  
• Even if you don't think you'll want to install something right now, run the cable anyway. It will be MUCH cheaper & easier to do it while the house is being built than it will once the walls are closed up
  
• Everybody is different and I know a lot of people who still use cable boxes & coax but, if it were my house, I wouldn't bother running more than a line from the highest point of the outside of the house to the network closet. That way I could plug a good HD antenna into a HDHomeRun and then distribute the signal over the network. All my other media is already streamed via an Nvidia Shield and I don't watch a lot of "live" tv, so that would work for my purposes, but other people might want coax to each or specific rooms
  
• Have all of the ethernet, speaker wire, coax & anything else you put in, terminate in a central location that you can use for your network closet, and make sure that it has proper ventilation (an AC vent at the bottom with a return at the top would be ideal) and insulation, including for sound
  
• Running conduit in the walls will definitely make it easier to pull wires when you inevitably realize you forgot something
  
• For smart lights always go with switches over bulbs, since they'll be the easiest for other people to use. Your main options for switches are ZWave, Insteon and, Lutron. ZWave switches can be lower-priced than the other two so that might be a good budget option, but they can also be just as expensive.
  
• Make sure the electrician pulls the neutral wire to each outlet, light, switch, etc. It doesn't need to be hooked up everywhere at first but it will be MUCH easier to install switches & outlets if the wire is already in the back of the box, waiting. You didn't say where you are and having a neutral is code in just about everywhere in the US, but it never hurts to specify.
  
• Have the electrician wire all ceiling fan/light combos so the the fans can have their own switch, even if they are tied to the light for now. There aren't a lot of smart fan/light controls, so it's easiest to give each their own line and then wire in a switch/dimmer for the light and a fan-control for the fan
  
• Personally I'd go ahead and run a pair or two of speaker wire to each room, just in case you want to put in a wired whole-home audio system. However...
  
• Using Google Homes in each room is a really easy way to setup whole-home audio and it makes control of the house much easier
  
• Install a whole-home surge protector to keep all the goodies that get installed safe
  
• Install a networked energy monitor on the electrical box
  
• It's not electrical but I'd also suggest installing a smart valve for the water line coming into the house, that way you can remotely or automatically shut the water off if there's a leak
  
• Run power to under the eaves, or wherever holiday lights might go. You can get really fancy and permanently mount addressable RGB LEDs so it would be handy to have power there, but even if you only put up regular Christmas lights, it would still be easier to have a switched outlet to plug them in to
  
• Run power to above & below the upper kitchen cabinets (if there's room above), so countertop & accent lighting can easily be added later
  
• Run power inside the kitchen pantry and/or cabinets so you can add automatic lighting. I don't have a large kitchen and the ceiling light shines in the pantry well enough but once I added a strip of LEDs inside the door, connected to a magnetic reed switch, it's literally like the difference between night & day. Now I'm thinking of doing the same to my lower cabinets, so I can see better in there
  
• Look at the floorplan and estimate each place that you think might be useful to have an in-wall tablet, then make sure that there's an outlet (or at least a box with the a wire in it) below there, preferably near the same studs as where the tablet will go. Doing this will let you use a cat5 to USB adapter like this to easily run power up to the tablet. You could also put an outlet with USB ports in a "hi/low" box at the bottom of the wall, then run a USB cable up through the wall to charge the tablet
  
  I'm sure I'm missing some stuff but those are all of the things I've run across in my installs.
  

Not OP, but I am assuming a POE to micro usb adapter (example). This is what I plan on doing in several location of my house/garage.

Great. Now detail how you built the dashboard - GitHub links are welcomed. :)

I would also recommend this for people that want a cleaner look and can use POE over plain ol' CAT6 in the wall:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0086SQDMM?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_sfl_title_4&smid=A2SZCFXJT89WME

EDIT: Oops, i meant this link instead: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AH5XCLC?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=ox_sc_sfl_title_9&smid=A2SZCFXJT89WME

The other one is one that ended up not using.

No guide, but it's pretty easy once you have it all in front of you:

POE-USB-Kit | Compatible with iPad or Android Tablet with Female USB and Micro-USB Adapters - Extend Power Via PoE Ethernet Cable up to 328 Feet with 5 Volts 10 Watts Output and Divided Data https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AH5XCLC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_frinDbBHH4WBE

Electric code usually only deals with line voltage, you can do pretty much anything with DC5V as that falls into "low voltage" power. I don't have a great idea off the top of my head for connecting the 120v to the charger in some approved way. Maybe a duplex recep in the wall with the charger physically plugged into it? Alternately, the recessed box with a USB power recep and the cable run back into the wall idea should be to code as all the 120V parts are unmodified.

For running the wire cleanly into or out of the wall, check out cable bushings.

If you are looking for centralized DC power delivery, PoE is probably the most standard approach to that, where a central switch delivers power to each cable run and you can use something like this at the plate to power a USB device.

I've been using one from PoE Texas since April for one of my outdoor cams: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AH5XCLC/

I've got it housed inside one of these outdoor enclosures: https://www.data-alliance.net/enclosure-network-inside-5-x-3-55-x-1-5-inch-2-ports-pvc-very-strong-outdoor/

No problems at all out of it so far.

Yes, you can power a Nest cam with a POE to USB adapter. I had a nest cam (indoor) connected using this adapter without any issues. I ran a 75' ethernet cord between the two sides of the adapter and had no issues with it over the 2 or 3 months I had it hooked up. I recently switched to a Netgear Arlo Q Plus POE camera.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AH5XCLC/ref=cm_sw_r_em_apa_5yKZxbMA8CFM5

Talked to the guys at Wifi Texas.. I have a Mode B injector with a Mode A USB Splitter. I need a Mode A injector. I've rectified this by purchasing these instead: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00AH5XCLC/ . Works like a charm, cheaper than a POE switch/dongle as well.

Basically I have Ethernet runs in my walls & use this to provide the power through them.

I don't own the adapter myself, but this review claims it works with their iPhone 6.

Power over Ethernet cable run through the walls connecting to a Ethernet-USB converter.

You could run a solid core power line, but that will be expensive. Any other method would likely violate building codes.


You can use something like this if you don't have a PoE switch: https://www.amazon.com/WS-POE-USB-Kit-Tablet-Remote-Charger-Ethernet/dp/B00AH5XCLC

I'd also not recommend not doing this. The echo is still too new. It's likely to be replaced in 1-2 years anyway and you'd have a dinosaur built into the wall.

The tablet in my living room I mounted with magnets. I used epoxy to attach 2 large magnets to the back of the tablet and 2 magnets behind blank electrical cover plates. I'm using magnetic micro-USB cables for the chargers and powering them off of PoE so I don't have to mess with mains voltage. You can just grab the tablet and pull it off the wall.

For the other tablets, I bought plastic brackets off of Amazon and used the same magnetic micro-usb cables and POE power.

I don't have experience in this field, but you could use an adapter like this

I've been using a Simple Wall Mount for $120 for an iPad that runs cctv feeds. It looks very clean and was easy to install.
https://www.simplewallmount.com


I used a POE USB kit for power (cat6):
WS-POE-USB-Kit for iPad or Tablet, Remote USB Charger Via PoE Ethernet Cable up To 328 Feet With 5 Volts 10 Watts and Female USB https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AH5XCLC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_E9BFxb8VPGPAA