Reddit Reddit reviews STEPPERONLINE Stepper Motor Nema 17 Bipolar 40mm 64oz.in(45Ncm) 2A 4 Lead 3D Printer Hobby CNC

We found 10 Reddit comments about STEPPERONLINE Stepper Motor Nema 17 Bipolar 40mm 64oz.in(45Ncm) 2A 4 Lead 3D Printer Hobby CNC. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

Industrial & Scientific
Additive Manufacturing Products
3D Printer Parts & Accessories
3D Printer Motors
STEPPERONLINE Stepper Motor Nema 17 Bipolar 40mm 64oz.in(45Ncm) 2A 4 Lead 3D Printer Hobby CNC
Hot Sale! High Torque45Ncm(63.7oz.in) holding torqueNEMA 17 bipolar 1.65"x1.65"x1.57" 4-wire1.8 deg. step angle(200 steps/rev)Rated current 2A & resistance 1.1ohms
Check price on Amazon

10 Reddit comments about STEPPERONLINE Stepper Motor Nema 17 Bipolar 40mm 64oz.in(45Ncm) 2A 4 Lead 3D Printer Hobby CNC:

u/mindbodyandtroll · 3 pointsr/arduino

If you choose to use a stepper, I would recommend the Nema 17. This is great for smaller-scale projects like a small 3-D printer, fair amount of torque but low speeds. If you main concern is controlling these motors to a precise angle but you aren't too concerned with high speed, this would be a good choice. All the specs are given in that link. A servo is better used in an application where you just want it to be either ON or OFF. If this is a mobile robot, like a little car or crawler, I would go with the servo, here is my recommended product, cheap and strong. Keep in mind that you will also need a driver to run either of these motors. Search Arduino motor sheild/hat/driver for that.

u/Festernd · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

you're quite welcome!
The motors I bought were these: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PNEQI7W but any nema17 sized steppers that have at least 64OzIn(45Ncm) of torque will do.
the advantages of the 32bit controllers are pretty numerous, but here's the pros and cons as I see them.

Pros: faster movement- they can generate movement commands much faster than the 8 bit ones. More powerful -they can calculate the geometries easier, leaving capacity available for other things. on the smoothieboard, for example, it can be hooked up to your home internet, and serve a local webpage, thus running stand-alone. Additionally the 32bit controllers don't need to be flashed with new firmware to change settings. they have a config file on the sd card that you can update, or for the more common settings, via several g-code commands. The 32 bit controllers aren't as common, so the information available isn't splintered or contradictory, like it can be for the 8 bit controllers. the guys on smoothieboard's IRC channel are very helpful, although a bit terse.

Cons: Some of the features of the 8 bit processor's firmwares that I like are not implemented, firmware that prevents you from accidentally telling your printer to move in a fashion that it can't (out of bounds movement) and an over-temperature cut-out (marlin firmware will cut every thing if the hot end is measured to exceed a certain temperature. the 32 bit controllers aren't as common, so there aren't as many sources of info or help available, however see the pro about info

the build volume if you use the arm length recommended is something like 120mm diameter by 260mm tall. I suggest, if you get their kossel, to make your carbon-fiber tubes 250mm long instead of the suggested 180mm. this gives you total arm lengths of about 290, which results in a build volume of about 210mm by 200mm.

u/sawtable · 2 pointsr/arduino

The motor is a Nema 17 with 63.7 oz-in of hold torque.
The drive controller doesn't seem like it has the ability to do micro stepping which I didn't see as a problem because the resolution of it is more then i really need already.
Links to both that i got from amazon below.

The application is raising a skylight, which involves the motor turning a hook which grabs the loop to open the skylight.

As far as I can tell it doesn't have to do with resonance but whenever its not actually moving a step its losing all current. This could be my problem as the drive started to over heat when it was not moving. So at the end of the move I disable the driver because the window doesn't need to be held open.

Motor:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PNEQI7W/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Driver:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B014KMHSW6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/Factknowhow · 1 pointr/arduino

Alright, I have a motor shield but I have no idea how to use it. Here is the motor shield I have, and here is the stepper motor I have. Is it possible to use this stepper motor with this shield?

u/neautika · 1 pointr/tevotarantula

Ya man... your gonna dig it. And jams with high temperature filament will be a thing of the past.... You should go ahead and run linear advance with PETG once just so you get an effect of how much more torque you will be wielding after doing this. Here is the stepper https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00PNEQI7W/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

u/solomondg · 1 pointr/3Dprinting

this one's amazing. I've been using it as the extruder motor on both my 3D printers. Great torque, always runs cool. I'd recommend it. Only $15!

u/xakh · 1 pointr/Ask3D

Yeah, this is considered more than enough power for a typical printer, so that's pretty beastly, haha. Anyway, the easiest conversion for a CNC mill is usually just to replace the brains with a basic Arduino based board that you can load Marlin or Repetier onto. The problem here though is the fact that I'm betting the motors you've got can't run that well with the max power most of those little built in stepper drivers can handle (I wanna say it's 2 amps at 12V per motor?) I know there's a way to add external steppers via relays and whatnot, but I've not had any experience with that. As far as the rest, all you really'd need to do is make sure the bed is just a flat, preferably heated surface (I think a lot of CNCs use vacuum tables? Not something you want for printing), and make a mount that you can use to hold something like an E3D-V6 in place where the head used to be. After that, you just need an extruder, and you can either attach that directly above the hotend or stick it somewhere off to the side and run the plastic through a teflon tube, in what's called a Bowden extruder.

u/Lowkin · 1 pointr/robotics

I don't need PWM, it's just connected to the PWM rail and the pins are set to digital output.

I have caps between the Vmoto and MotorGnd battery, maybe not large enough caps. (The caps only equal 10micro Farads, I was hoping it would be enough maybe an issue)
However it works when the servos are not connected, so I feel like the issue has something to do with the VDD to GND connection

The a4988 says in the diagram of the link I sent it needs a 5v ref with the microcontroller.
https://www.amazon.com/Stepper-Motor-Bipolar-64oz-Printer/dp/B00PNEQI7W (this is the stepper)


https://a.pololu-files.com/picture/0J3360.600.png?d94ef1356fab28463db67ff0619afadf
this is the image that shows it needs a 5v reference to my knowledge
basically I connect the arduino 5v(vdd) to the driver Vdd and the gnd to gnd.

is it normal that the a4988 always has current flowing from the VMOTO to gnd battery? Should I build a transistor switch or am I going to severely inhibit the steppers response time?

u/falldeaf · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

Two of these guys: http://www.amazon.com/Stepper-Motor-Bipolar-64oz-Printer/dp/B00PNEQI7W?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

And the current rating is 2A

Hmm, the pi probably draws 2A along with the Steppers that's 6, and that doesn't include the arduino.

I guess that's probably an issue right there.

Though, I've noticed that this also happens when hooked up to my bench power supply. So maybe there's two issues here? Need caps to regulate and beefier 12v supply?