Reddit reviews Syhonic Metal DIY Hot End for RepRap 3D Printer 1.75mm Filament, 0.4mm Nozzle, 12V 40W Heater, NTC 3950 Thermistor Hotend

This should be a direct replacement.

https://www.amazon.com/RepRap-3D-Printer-Filament-Thermistor/dp/B00THZJH3U/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1521658055&sr=8-3&keywords=anet+hotend

With that being said, once you are able to print things, I would purchase an E3D clone hot end and switch it over. you'll need to print parts in order to make the switch, so you will need the above linked part in order to get the printer going again.

I had the same thing happen with my A8, and I was not able to get it unclogged. Tried all the normal unclogging steps, up to pulling the nozzle off the printer and hitting it with a blowtorch. I was eventually able to get it to feed again, but it was still partially clogged and was way underextruding as a result. I eventually just bought a new nozzle on amazon. This is the one I bought https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00THZJH3U

I used my existing heating element and thermistor so I wouldn't have to update the firmware. The parts fit right in, and I haven't had any problems since.

Here is the one I bought. It works great, and I haven't had any issue with it. There are cheaper ones too, but I can't speak for the quality of those.

> Given the prices you mentioned, that was pretty much what you did imply.

I factored $20 for a power supply and $20 (this is a PTFE lined hotend and has poor reviews, an all-metal would probably be $25+) for a new heater block (I went for the one with the cartridge and thermistor because newer variants need a cartridge thermistor). A Meanwell 12v@30a (360w) costs $47 and a legit E3D replacement would be $20 without a heater cartridge (assuming the A8's fits), and you would still be using a PTFE lined heat-break (assuming the A8's heat-break is compatible with E3Ds).

I'm not trying to imply that you should be using the best parts possible, I'm trying to say that you shouldn't be using the cheapest stuff, you should be using something somewhere in the middle.

> There are some problems with the PSU, maybe not enough to warrant a replacement upon acquisition, but it's not entirely unheard of.

The Duplicator has QC issues, as noted in the printer recommendation list, but no where near as bad as the A8s (I got a screw that wasn't threaded).

>As to the board, there's quite a few(see comments) posts on that

Since you don't understand why the MOSFET mod is needed, go read my explanation. The MOSFET mod prevents the connectors on the Melzi from burning up (and don't forget, the A8 needs the mod too) on the Duplicator v2.1 (again, the Plus does not need the MOSFET mod or a board swap, the amount of current running through the connectors is well within the limits of the connectors).

would this work?

https://www.amazon.com/RepRap-3D-Printer-Filament-Thermistor/dp/B00THZJH3U/ref=sr_1_4?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1467163238&sr=1-4&keywords=Cartridge+Heater+12+volt