Reddit reviews Tru-Flate 21-143 1/4" NPT Male Fitting x 3/8" ID Hose Barb Type Fitting
We found 2 Reddit comments about Tru-Flate 21-143 1/4" NPT Male Fitting x 3/8" ID Hose Barb Type Fitting. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.
Solid brass hose adapter has many uses - repair rather than replace damaged air hoses, adapt automotive fuel, emissions, and cooling lines, service industrial and farm equipment, and more1/4 inch NPT male threads match size of most common air hose fittings allowing easy repair of air hose ends that get accidentally damaged, crushed, or cutCompatible with many vintage automotive components like intake manifold and carburetor emissions ports, carburetor fuel lines, and moreCorrosion resistant brass is rugged, won't rust, and resistant to most chemicals; precision machining ensures a leak free seal2-1/2 turns from finger tight plus use of Teflon tape and/or pipe compound (not included) is required for threaded end to ensure tight, leakproof seal
I'm glad to see more people are mentioning this, it's (IMO) a much better way to leak test without the risk of actual leaks. Some Amazon links for my current setup:
You'll need a pressure gauge, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0087UCI8C/ has a relatively low maximum for high sensitivity (easy to see if there's a drop)
You'll need a valve you can hook a hand pump on to (like what you'd use to pump up a bike tire -- I don't recommend an electric pump because of the low pressure you need). https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001PLI4BA/ is in the same threading as the gauge.
You'll need a tee to connect these things to -- https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BQUTBS/
Finally, connecting the tee to your rig. I take a scrap of tubing, put a fitting on one end, and slip the other over: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CFNKBO/ (check for your tube's inside diameter!).
Assembly is pretty straightforward, wrap some pipe tape around each component's threads and screw into the tee. Before connecting to your rig, you may want to cap the open end and pressurize it a bit to make sure you're not starting with any leaks. Connect in to your fill or drain port as appropriate, and slowly pressurize the system. You don't need a ton, only 8-10 psi is plenty, and is more than the water will be operating at. Mark the gauge position, and come back in a few hours. If the needle has moved, you've got a leak -- you can swab glycerin or dawn soap around your seals to find where. If not, you know that air at higher than normal operating pressure isn't leaking out, and that's a nice tolerance to know you have!
I just meant to check the cheap stuff before you buy a fuel pump. Sounds like the pump is probably your issue though. I'd get a Walbro 255LPH from amazon. Oh and make sure to be EXTREMELY careful taking the hoses off the pump assembly because if there's any rust those metal lines will break off, which is not fun to deal with. I had to drill out the holes and then I pushed one of these through the hole and tightened this on the other side and then used some JB weld to make the tank air tight again.