The biggest contributor to the amount of foam is the flow rate out of the tap. To reduce the foam, reduce the flow rate. You're using 11 PSI with a 5 ft line, which sounds like it would pour really fast.

Option 1: Lower pressure for serving

Bleed pressure from keg and set regulator to 2-5 PSI when serving. Re-pressurize when not serving so the beer doesn't go flat.

Pros: No extra equipment required.

Cons: Incredibly wasteful in terms of CO2. Using this method, I blasted through roughly a third of a 5# tank dispensing just one keg.

Option 2: Adjust beer line length

Make the line length longer according to the style of beer, to compensate for high pressure in the keg. This has to do with fluid dynamics. There is info available on this if you search; I remember seeing posts on this a few weeks ago.

Pros: simple, effective, and inexpensive

Cons: Requires a lot of cutting and re-clamping of beer lines for each different style of beer; no way of doing fine tuning of flow rate for more or less head; requires keeping a bigger inventory of tubing for different styles.

Option 3: Flow control

Put something in your draft system that allows you to adjust the flow rate without attaching/reattaching anything.

Pros: easy to control, less hassle/mess. Just turn a dial and get the flow rate exactly what you want it to be, to perform on-the-spot adjustments for the perfect pour.

Cons: more expensive, although I've seen plastic inline flow controllers like this $2.50 USD one

I have the Perlick 650SS tap on my kegerator and it works like a charm. If you're using a picnic tap or want to use a tap without built-in flow control, and you want something nice, you can get an inline flow control compensator like the one made by CM Becker, or (less expensive but still solid) make one using a stainless steel NPT ball valve and two hose barbs (clamps and plumber's tape not included).

Edit: info/links

LOL :) That list is shorter ...

You'll need a pressure gauge, https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0087UCI8C/ has a relatively low maximum for high sensitivity (easy to see if there's a drop)

You'll need a valve you can hook a hand pump on to (like what you'd use to pump up a bike tire -- I don't recommend an electric pump because of the low pressure you need). https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001PLI4BA/ is in the same threading as the gauge.

You'll need a tee to connect these things to -- https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BQUTBS/

Finally, connecting the tee to your rig. I take a scrap of tubing, put a fitting on one end, and slip the other over: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CFNKBO/ (check for your tube's inside diameter!).

I just made a little u-bend out of (these) (three) (pieces) and run silicone tubing from a ball valve on my solar pump output to the u-bend, then hook it over the edge of my kettle.

You can also get something like a recirculation arm for more efficient whirlpooling or a locline recirculation kit. I haven't used either of these but they look cool

I made this a couple months ago and the recent post of a DIY smoker and a request for more details prompted me to put this together.

Materials Needed:

• Mini Vacuum on ebay
  
• Smoking/Pipe Screens - 1 large - 1 small
  
• 3 feet of 1/4" interior diameter vinyl tubing
  
• 2 inches of 3/8" interior diameter vinyl tubing
  
• Brass Hose Barb
  
  I've added links to products similar to the ones I used and they're all available via Amazon but most items can be easily found locally for much less. I was able to buy the brass fitting and the vinyl tubing by the foot at a home improvement store. The pipe screens were less than 10 cents each at a local smoke shop. The ebay auction I linked to is by far the least expensive place to get the mini vacuum that I found.
  
  Start by inserting the Small Pipe Screen in the mouth of the Brass Hose Barb. This is a secondary screen to catch any small particles to prevent them from entering the vacuum. Insert the brass hose barb into a 1.5" - 2" piece of 3/8" vinyl tubing. You will connect this to the top of the mini vacuum. If you buy the sizes I indicate they will fit perfectly on the mini vacuum I linked to. Finally connect a 3 foot piece of the 1/4" vinyl tubing directly to the side outlet vent (again these will dry fit firmly) or you can use the flexible plastic piece that comes with the vacuum. I find this a little easier to add and remove and is more flexible.
  
  Once this is assembled, take the large pipe screen and form it into a cup using the back of a pen and insert it into the brass hose barb. This is where you will put your wood shavings. Any shavings work, I started by using larger pieces of hickory that I was shaving down using a microplane but it was time consuming so I purchased some of the PolyScience chips from the kitchen store. They work well and don't burn down quite as fast.
  
  To use the smoker, apply a flame to the wood chips until they start to ignite and turn on the vacuum. Once the vacuum starts you can remove the flame and it will give you about 20-30 seconds of smoke. Believe me this is more than enough. It produces a nice dense smoke that can be very potent.
  
  I put together a quick (and not my best work) video of the gun in action.
  Hope you enjoy!
  

Another thread suggested this 20w pump with this fitting and I've been happy with it for the 6 months I've had it. I run my pump 24/7 to keep the water circulating and so far still working fine

This one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0018X2XT4/
And this adapter: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AB5X28G/

Here's my nice stainless 1/2" setup. I had a brass 3/8" setup but it's slow and I was paranoid of lead leaching out of it.

Spigot + bulkhead

1/2" barb

Bazooka screen

Silicone tubing

You might forego the bazooka screen and just use a brew bag like https://www.brewinabag.com/. Or perhaps a false bottom if you have some extra cash to burn. The 12" bazooka screens don't fit, so you have to be a little careful with stuck sparges if you get this 6".

BTW I'm using the 10 gallon cylindrical cooler, not the rectangular kind.

Dude, look at that link. Those pipes are included.

Listen, you can't have auto coolant lines incapable of being pressurized. A key feature of engine coolant lines is the fact that they are capable of holding pressure, which allows them to absorb more heat which may be passed through the radiator. If there's an opportunity for coolant to lose its pressurization, the entire engine heat dissipation system has effectively been hamstrung. The entire system will no longer be able to rise above a boiling temperature.

What's more, the Miata doesn't have a great cooling system to begin with. This is something which solomiata commented on years ago. You can see the home made fix on that site, but it's been further perfected by flyin' miata and is still for sale here with a great explanation as to its necessity.

Honestly, I would sooner bypass the heater core in its entirety than allow for a potential depressurization. Just go out and buy a 5/8" barb union, and tie the lines together until you can replace that pipe.

Since this is a main supply, and apparently carries a decent amount of pressure, you might should use brass coupler with hose clamps:

(Pick appropriate size...)

Anderson Metals Brass Hose Fitting, Union, 5/8" x 5/8" Barb link:https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003CESS6E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_wd12Cb962MKWV

Sure,

inline heater: 150w/300w/500w In-Line External Heater AQUARIUM HEATER - 150/300/500 WATT 1/2"-5/8" (300 Watt 5/8" (16/22mm) Hose) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01MG8K0GY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_FIh2Ab1QSTN6J

Also if you're using a sunsun with 3/4 inch tubing your going to need 3/4 to 5/8 adapters: Eldon James C12-10BN Automotive Black Nylon Reduction Coupler, 3/4" Hose Barb to 5/8" Hose Barb (Pack of 10) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B017VNE00Y/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_OKh2AbZ8J5E3F

Then your going to need a couple hose clamps and about a foot of strong 5/8 tubing, I just drove to the local Auto parts store since they sell hose by the foot and it was less than $5 for hose and clamps. Whereas Amazon only sells long spools for $30+

I just bought these and they're threaded on both sides so that what you linked to (or these which I also bought) should fit. I put them on some 5gal buckets and the seal is working great. Pretty happy with the setup so far :)

This is basically what I use...

The basics:

• Tote for your res
  
  
• Digital timer
  
  
• Pump
  
  
• Manifold (has an assortment of flow rate inserts so you can set it up how you want)
  
  
• fitting to attach hose from pump to manifold
  
  
• pump-to-manifold tubing
  
  
• Drip tubing
  
  Extras, that make things nice and easy:
  
  
• FloraFlex cap for even distribution through the medium
  
  
• Floraflex clips to hold the drip lines in place
  
  
  If you feed drain-to-waste, you'll want to come up with some way to collect runoff. Maybe something like THIS small HD tote, with a few holes drilled through the top. Just set your plant on top and it will collect all your runoff.

I've used a trash can in the past (I've got a jockey box now). Works pretty good. Regarding a co2 splitter, I just a brass t for my portable setup. Works great.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000LNOSFO/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This connector should work.

https://www.amazon.com/MettleAir-129PP-2-Polypropylene-Plastic-Splicer/dp/B00S8CXCK2/ref=sr_1_5?rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1540267303&sr=8-5&keywords=polypropylene+barb+1%2F8&refinements=p_85%3A2470955011

My pumps came with them so I don't have a direct link.

https://www.amazon.com/Tubing-Fitting-Connector-Garden-MettleAir/dp/B00JWWSWSY

I made a book-length comment a while ago on here, lemme copy-paste it. This was for carboy-keg, but it's a similar idea. Just get creative about it ;)

"Sorry about the late reply, but here it goes.

Since you have a glass carboy and a siphon, I think you have 2 options: pressurized transfer and unpressurized (read: gravity) transfer.

First is pressurized, which is what I did. When I was doing research when I first did it, a lot of people used caps like these. Basically, they would use the large hole to put the siphon in, and the smaller hole to connect to the gas. The Gas connection should be easier with the cap.

To connect the gas, turn the regulator down to about 1 psi. be careful not to go too high, since the glass carboy can explode with pressure, so I wouldn't go higher than 1 psi. Close the tank once it's set, and disconnect the gas manifold from the regulator. This tube should go on the smaller hole on the cap, but again, this isn't how I did it so your mileage may vary. make sure you use a hose clamp and clamp it down tight too, because you don't want your CO2 to leak out. Essentially, this will push the beer from the top, down through the siphon, out the top of the cap, and down into the keg.

The siphon should fit down the cap, but if it doesn't you should be able to use a silicone tube that's the same OUTER diameter as the holes INNER diameter. The siphon hose will connect to the beer side of the keg -- or the side of the keg that normally dispenses the beer. In my case, the actual connector was clamped shut in such a way that I couldn't remove it, so instead I removed my faucet head and connected the 2 tubes. Either use a tube union like this one or jerry-rig something up. Make sure to use more hose clamps, because otherwise you'll have beer leaking all over which is no bueno.

At this point you should have a connection from the gas to the carboy and from the carboy to the keg. The last thing to do is know how to vent the keg. I have pin lock kegs without the pull-tab relief valve, so I stick a screwdriver into the unused connector to open it, allowing it to vent the gas that is being displaced by the incoming beer. On ball-lock kegs, they usually feature a nice pull-ring valve on the lid that can be pulled to release the pressure. Either way, you will need to release the pressure regularly during the process or else the pressure will equalize and the beer will stop flowing.

At this point, you should be able to start. Make sure all of the connections are tight, the connector is plugged into the keg, and you can vent the pressure. Open the CO2 tank valve, and make sure the regulator is still at a light 1psi or lower. The pressure of the gas will force the beer up into the siphon and down into the beer line, filling the keg from the bottom. This forces the gas out through the top of the keg, which is where you release the pressure that builds up as it equalizes.

Once it's done filling, turn off the CO2 tank and disconnect all of the tubes, and you have a full keg of beer!


The gravity version (which I haven't done) is basically the entire thing, but the carboy needs to be higher than the keg, and instead of a CO2 connection there . . .nothing. This obviously exposes some of the beer to the air, which is not good, but it probably is a lot less likely to explode. "

Something like this? I have a 1.5" pipe I can connect to, and tubing would be ideal...

Yes! That's the one that i have, and i love it.

Is it expensive? Yes.

Are there better alternatives? Probably.

But i absolutely love mine, it is a bit of a beast to disassemble and sanitize every time, but its not overbearing. I just got tired of loosing so much when i racked, and now i barely loose any mead from primary to secondary.

p.s. get these attachments. that way you can easily just let it siphon on its own.

1 & 2

Will this work?

https://www.amazon.com/EDGE-INDUSTRIAL-Reducer-SPLICER-Fitting/dp/B07CSGSKY3/ref=sr_1_2?crid=J2IHP0RSX8GJ&keywords=hose+barb+reducer+1%2F2+x+3%2F8&qid=1554670559&s=gateway&sprefix=hose+barb+%2Caps%2C201&sr=8-2

You sure it is not male on the Air Injection Iron Eater Filter valve? Male connection on the valve side is what is shown in the manual you posted.

And I see now they want the ferrule compression fitting to attach directly to a 3/8" male threaded tubing connection on the Iron Out and not go to 3/8" NPT. Not very common in 3/8" (much more common in 1/4" as that is the setup for an ice maker).

If you verify the connection is male on the Iron Out valve, you'll want to get a ferrule tube to insert into the end of a plain end 3/8" tube, a 3/8" female ferrule nut, and a 3/8" ferrule sleeve. Harder to find in small qty's on Amazon, but here is the smallest quantity I can find of a complete kit.

https://www.amazon.com/LTWFITTING-Compression-Insert-Sleeve-Ferrule/dp/B07FD18R9S

Edit: AH, I see in one of their diagrams that they have the 3/8" ferrule nut screwed on to the connection on the Iron Eater valve to remove for your use on your tube. They most likely provided you with a little parts kit that has the ferrule tube and compression sleeve (probably along with the little filter). So you would unscrew the ferrule nut, place it on to your 3/8" tube, slide the compression sleeve on the tube. (if one side of the compression sleeve is tapered more than the other, face it away from the nut) then put your ferrule sleeve in to the plain end of your tube, then tighten this down to male connection on the Iron Eater valve.

If you can't find they provided you with the ferrule tube and the compression sleeve in your parts kit that came with the Iron Eater, you can order them individually:

3/8" Ferrule Sleeves: https://www.amazon.com/LTWFITTING-Compression-Sleeves-Ferrel

3/8" Ferrule Tube Inserts: https://www.amazon.com/LTWFITTING-Compression-Insert-COMPRESSION-FITTING/dp/B00MP1R2AI

But you can also get the little kit as well packaged specifically for this application with the filter.

https://www.amazon.com/Brine-Fitting-Kit-5600-5600SXT

The key is in the joint between water bottle and the pressure source (I just use the garden hose). It needs to allow enough pressure to build up within the bottle, and unhook when you release the bottle. I hooked up something like this to my garden hose and put several layers of masking tape on the top left part to snugly the water bottle over it.

Fill the water bottle with 1/3 water (so 2/3 air), and hook it up over the masking tape. Hold it vertically (upside down) and turn the water on, pressing down to hold it in place. Do NOT hold your face or any other body part over the bottle. The incoming water will compress the air inside to about half its normal volume. When there's about 2/3 water inside the bottle you won't be able to hold it any more, so let the bottle take off vertically. It should go about 25 or more feet in the air.

no problem. Id probably grab a brass one instead of plastic though if you can find one. If you're ordering online, http://www.amazon.com/MettleAir-129-6-4-Reducer-Splicer-Fitting/dp/B00CIX3TSW/ref=pd_sim_86_9?ie=UTF8&dpID=31ncVZg4j%2BL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=0J0NAVHYZS35X3G6TXB9

or if not, gas fitting shops, plumbers etc will have them. Id imagine they're around at big boxes in the states (im not from the US)

Yeah this is what your looking for http://www.amazon.com/Anderson-Metals-Fitting-Connector-Female/dp/B000BQL8RC/ref=pd_sim_sbs_indust_1 and the barb the chamber is talking about is most likely the one attached to it.

I think I've got it figured out, but I could use a help figuring out / confirming the parts and connections for a recirculating line cleaner for my keezer.


When I purchased the Mark II Keg & Carboy Washer it came with an inline attachment for the post that allows you to connect tubing on the side. I've done that and attached a swivel nut with a 1/4" barb so that I can hook up a gas or liquid disconnect and divert some of the flow into the gas or liquid dip tube while cleaning a keg.


Using the same pump and the abovementioned setup, would getting a pair of these (is this the right size threading?) and attaching them to either end of a length of tubing do the job? This would, in theory, connect the swivel nut at the end of the keg washer tube to the swivel nut of the beverage line that runs to a tap faucet (after removing the quick disconnect).

edit: to point to a different hose fitting (1/4" NPT rather than 1/8" NPT)

Ok so no experience doing high volume Ejuice bottling, but had an idea for you.

First thing is use gravity, So get a container for the storage of the juice you are dispensing into the smaller bottles. Something large and that you can suspend from above. Also something that you can drill a hole into. Once you have this drill a hole towartds one edge of the bottom. Find yourself a stainless steel valve and get some stainless fittings to go from the bucket into the valve. Just screw one side into the valve and place a nut on the inside of the bucket to tighten it up to the hex part. Maybe get a longer one so you have plenty clearance on the handle. Use silicone or simiar food grade washers to seal this up. Maybe even a caulking if there is a food grade type.

At this point you have two choices. You can go straight into a barb fitting, then some flexible hose down to where your bottles will sit at. Just open the valve fill to weight close and move on. Or....

If it were me I would go into barb fitting then tubing then back into barb fitting and another valve. I would then measure this section between the valves to be the exact amount I want in each bottle. After the second valve it would go back into barb then hose for a final stretch of tubing to the fill area.

This way you would open first valve fill area to second valve, close first open second, fill bottle, close second, rinse and repeat.

Open valve 1, close valve 1, open valve 2, close valve 2, bottle filled. If you did around 3/8" to 1/2" on the tubing diameter even heavy VG should flow well just with gravity.

Once again I have never created a setup like this, but the problem intrigued me. Also just listed stainless fittings in general. I assume your doing this commercialy, and would use food grade which I googled to be 304, you may already be well aware of all of this, just thought I'd add it.

Yes sir.
This is a barb valve https://www.amazon.com/FPT-BARB-Stainless-Steel/dp/B0064OJDUO/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1498193537&sr=8-1&keywords=barb+valve+1%2F2+1%2F2

This is camlocks https://www.brewhardware.com/category_s/1844.htm
All it is is a quicker way of changing tubing without the need to pull a tube off your barb valve.

The great thing about the brew hardware website is they explain how to install each and every part they sell.

Anderson Metals Brass Compression Hose Fitting, Connector, Barb x NPT Female

http://amzn.com/B003CEN5BW

Not sure your size exactly it this should point you in the right direction.

One of these attached to your regulator with a couple of checked shutoffs would let you shut off each keg individually, which is nice sometimes. It'd let you dial your pressure up for carbonating on one keg while shutting the gas off to the other, for instance.

But just a simple 5/16" barbed tee to split the line works fine, too, if you're okay with unhooking a keg while messing with the other.

I just meant to check the cheap stuff before you buy a fuel pump. Sounds like the pump is probably your issue though. I'd get a Walbro 255LPH from amazon. Oh and make sure to be EXTREMELY careful taking the hoses off the pump assembly because if there's any rust those metal lines will break off, which is not fun to deal with. I had to drill out the holes and then I pushed one of these through the hole and tightened this on the other side and then used some JB weld to make the tank air tight again.

I picked up this and this and an extra gas post to do this.

That barb fits the same size hole as a standard airlock. When cold crashing or pressure pushing I just pull out the airlock, replace it with those pieces, and connect the gas QD.

It works well in a bung, but didn't work great in a grommeted lid since there isn't much to support the barb... I was able to get it to mostly work by adding some keg lube and holding it straight while pressure pushing.

a barbed coupler

https://www.amazon.com/LTWFITTING-Brass-Splicer-Mender-Fitting/dp/B00CHI04AY/

​

if your house has a crawl space, you can likely just replace the whole line without much hassle.

they're usually "add on" done after construction is complete, so it's just a hole drilled through your floor, and the hose goes down into the crawl space and then back up in the cabinet.

the tricky part is getting the new hose successfully down the old holes.