Best automotive ignition distributors & parts according to redditors
We found 11 Reddit comments discussing the best automotive ignition distributors & parts. We ranked the 11 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
Amazon... Free shipping with prime too...
https://www.amazon.ca/Dixon-Valve-HA2575T-Equipment-Hydrant/dp/B007IV6V7K/ref=mp_s_a_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1541859068&sr=8-6&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=Fire+hydrant+adapter&dpPl=1&dpID=41XOh9sMI4L&ref=plSrch
Apparently, it is a hot dog rotor.
As far as I can tell, it is for cooking hotdogs 4 at a time over a campfire.
Forked sticks always worked well enough for me.
It has to be dual purpose in some way otherwise it wouldn't be worth the cost of the tooling and good old fashioned metal stamping would be cheaper. Judging by https://www.amazon.com/Ford-F87Z-3B457-AA-RING-RETAINING/dp/B000O07VFI
It seems to also serve as a seal.
Clean looking ZJ! Congrats!
Do you know any of the maintenance history? If not, I would suggest changing all fluids and doing a tune up before doing any upgrades/mods.
Fluids
Tune Up - This is what I'm currently running in my 4.0
If you do all that, and you have any issues with stalling or hesitation from the engine, This should be your bible - The Dirt Dozen
Your ZJ will be running like a top, and ready to lift, modify and most importantly be reliable when you get out there to wheel!
Don't use tape on the tank to regulator fitting, or any flared fitting like the ones on this manifold. The tape won't do anything and might prevent you from tightening it enough to get a good seal. You should use these nylon washers, that I can't find anywhere but Northern Brewer. The only fittings that might need tape are NPT fittings, like between the shut off valves of that manifold and the manifold itself. The regulator has a built in seal that seals against the flat face of the tank outlet.
For what you have there you don't need tape at all. And if you do get a manifold, you shouldn't need to change the fittings anyway.
edit: I'm not saying having some isn't a good idea, and it's really cheap, just not for anything you have here.
73 was the first year with electronic ignition, but it might have points if it was delivered to the coach builder in 72. The 30 dollar option is simply replacing the ignition module. the modules go bad often enough that mopar guys usually carry a spare.
If you can confirm that it's just a no-spark issue and you don't feel like troubleshooting, you can drive it home laughing by un-doing one bolt from inside the van (the dizzy is located between the seats, literally!) and installing an all-in-one HEI distributor and hooking one wire to battery positive. That's all you need to do for a 'complete rewire of the ignition system'. In any case, expect a performance upgrade for the price of a tank of gas.
It's not MELF (which implies a particular set of sizes, none of which are anywhere near that long or thick) - it's more "old-style ceramic/carbon resistor, that had metal end-caps & leads - except without leads".
(edit: Note too that it'll have to withstand something of the order of several thousand volts across it, which is definitely outside of typical MELF territory 😉)
5k is typical of resistor boots. AFAIK the resistors are not readily available individually - resistor boots in general were more or less done away with decades ago (edit: in favour of resistive lead construction or resistor plugs), although they hung around in certain uses (e.g. bikes) for longer, and are still around in certain specialist areas (& the fanboy imitators around them e.g. hot rod circles).
That said, resistor caps/boots are still made in various shapes/sizes, and are available from places like speed shops - and Amazon.
I'm about to put this one in my 2002 astro van.
https://www.amazon.com/Top-Street-Performance-JM6671BK-Distributor/dp/B006CUUWIM
You can check out this thread on the astro/safari forum-
https://www.astrosafari.com/viewtopic.php?f=43&t=113082
Happened to me last year. I ordered this part on Amazon and it works great. Better than some of the other designs that use the metal ring. Although I don’t recommend it as a long term solution, you could reinforce the connection of the cable to the shifter with some zip ties for now, until the part arrives. My bushing completely disintegrated, and I drove for a while with only the zip ties holding the cable on. Again, I don’t recommend doing that any longer than necessary. Hope this helps!
Update 1:
Took off distributor cap and I think the distributor had been replaced somewhat recently? It looked very clean inside and the screws holding it on didn't look oem.
Here are pics of the distributor cap/rotor/etc:
https://imgur.com/a/n99LANq
After searching the part number on the distributor it looks like it's this aftermarket distributor....
https://www.amazon.com/Spectra-Premium-HT02-Distributor/dp/B000JZQYOW
I also remeasured 3/4 of the sparkplugs with the same light measurement from my post. One looks like it is missing some sparks, but they seem to be better timed than the first videos at least?
I hear the engine trying to crank at somewhat different speeds though. Maybe you notice it sounds like it's going faster a bit? Is it the distributor that could cause it to go faster or would it be something else?
Sparkplug 4 attempt 2:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bH3ZcF9v9ts
Sparkplug 3 attempt 2:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=BfUOfpmwyZk
Sparkplug 2 attempt 2:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=1mrD7x3UUD4
I really have no clue if I'm onto something with the distributor or if I'm not even close?
it looks like i have this style opti, but the box doesnt have the shaft in it, neither does 3 other ones i had work order.
http://www.amazon.com/Non-Vented-Generation-Optispark-Ignition-Distributor/dp/B00ARJO1H2/ref=sr_1_3?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1382455859&sr=1-3&keywords=optispark