Best radio control vehicle speed controls according to redditors

Depends on what you want to run. The default answer is always going to be a Traxxas Velineon system or a Castle 3800 with an MMP or the SCT version. Make sure you do a little price shopping as I'm sure you can find better prices on both. Those seems to be the most popular with slash's. Both are awesome - if you plan on trying out 3S lipo I would go with a Castle for sure and it's cheaper to boot, but the Velineon system is pretty much plug and play as the ESC will bolt right in and go.

My platinum has the Velineon in it and I've been pretty happy with it, runs great. ~37MPH on 2S lipo and 13/54 stock gearing. However it doesn't agree with 3S as it gets too hot. When it comes time to upgrade one of my brushed trucks to brushless (when the motor goes out) I'm going to put my Velineon in it and buy a castle 3800 or 2650 for mine and swap fully over to 3S.

As far as batteries go most all of them can run Nimh or 2s lipo - some will run 3S A LOT better especially in the temp department. But that's mainly up to tires/gearing and your driving style.

So here's my theoretical build for a heavy lift Hexacopter.

T-motor 380kv
T-MOTOR MT4008 KV380 High-Performance Brushless Electric Motor for Multi-Rotor Aircraft https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H5IHSKA/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_.sYrxbKS4Q04V

6x 30A opto ESC's
6PCS ARRIS 2-6S 30AMP 30A SimonK firmware OPT Brushless ESC for RC Quad Multicopter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UL4LIM4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_RuYrxb1VCV3M5

And the flight controller of your choice, I like APM. Also a gimbal, any hexacopter frame that fits the props you want, and a 4-6s lipo, over 5,000mah.

I might be wrong, but I'm not sure you can do that on a kk board.

I'm pretty sure you can on others. Especially something like this

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01E58V1N2/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

For general bashing and on Amazon, the Castle Sidewinder 3 isn't a bad option. They've got a 3800kv, 4600kv, and 5700kv if you want different motor options.

I like my Hobbywing stuff so far, but the price might be a bit more for ESC and motor through Amazon.

38010200 Max10 SCT ESC Combo with 3660SL 3200kV Sensorless Motor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073DCT1X8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_EWDZCbTWT7N9H

What I did right

• Bought high-quality parts (mostly)
  
• Laser-cut center logo
  
  • I originally tried cutting this out of grip tape. The results were... suboptimal. The laser-cut plastic looks amazing and was only ~$10 after free credits. I ordered it through Ponoko. New accounts get a $20 credit towards making stuff, and they have a huge range of materials to choose from. I used this material, which comes with adhesive pre-applied as well as being quite flexible.
    
• Custom fiberglass enclosure
  
  • This was probably the part of the build that took the longest. Due to me not sizing the enclosure correctly (see below), I decided it would be easier to make an enclosure rather than scouring the internet for one that fit. This was my first time working with fiberglass, so it turned out a little rough. But it does the job and conforms to my deck way better than any pre-bought enclosure ever would. It’s currently secured to my deck with screws threaded directly into the wood. The holes are strengthen with superglue. So far this has worked well (5+ screw in/outs), we’ll see if it holds up. If the holes start stripping I’ll just put some threaded inserts in.
    
• Installed a Bluetooth module
  
  • Although I haven’t gotten wireless configuration working yet, it’s really nice being able to see stats on your phone. I’m on iOS and use the Xmatic app which is very-well designed. It even comes with a companion Apple Watch app so you can easily check your speed and battery life while riding.
    
    

    Mistakes I made
    

    
    

1. I didn’t add extra clearance to the battery size when shopping for an enclosure. I originally bought this enclosure from MBoards. But either the enclosure or the battery was slightly bigger/smaller than the advertised dimensions and the entire enclosure bowed out when I tried shoving the battery in. Cables never had a chance of fitting. This turned out to be a bit of a moot point anyways, because...
   
2. I choose a deck with too much flex/bow. Even if the enclosure did fit the battery, attaching it to the underside of my deck would have severely warped it.
   
3. I destroyed two $10 42V chargers. The first was destroyed by plugging it in backwards to the battery (i.e. red -> black and black -> red on the battery connector). We don’t talk about the second one. ^(Ok maybe I plugged it in the exact same way expecting something else yes I’m an idiot)
   
4. I didn’t cut the grip tape very cleanly. Lots of rough edges, grip tape is harder to apply properly than it looks.
   
5. My paint job on the enclosure turned out a little sloppy because I didn’t properly secure the stencil.
   
   

   Potential upgrades
   

   
   

• New paint job on bottom (I might just go all-black and remove the design)
  
• New grip tape (with more consistent edges)
  
• Reverse-mounted motor (so I can use my dropdown like it was intended)
  
• Sleeker fiberglass enclosure
  
• Handle (I have no idea how to do this, any suggestions are welcome)
  
  

  Parts
  

  
  

• Motor Mount
  
• Pulley System
  
• 3250W 180KV Motor
  
  • This thing has an insane amount of torque, it chews up hills without slowing down at all. Very happy with this motor.
    
• Remote
  
• Caliber II Trucks
  
• Power Switch
  
• Longboard Deck
  
  • It’s cheap. Didn’t expect much, but it’s actually fairly nice (at least for a traditional longboard; as noted elsewhere there’s a bit too much flex for it to be a good electric board).
    
• Orangatang Kegel Wheels
  
• VESC
  
• BLE Module
  
• Charger
  
• 10S3P Battery Pack
  
  • This battery with its integrated BMS was plugged in to charge with its polarity accidentally reversed twice (see above), and it still works great.
    
    I spent a total of ~$770 on this board (including wasted parts). It's more than I wanted to spend but I expect it'll last a long time.
    
    Specs:
    
    
• Top speed: 28 MPH (in theory, I've only actually gone up to 16 MPH because of safety concerns :P)
  
• Range: 25-30 miles (extrapolated from the voltage drop on a ~2 mile ride, haven't had time to go on a ride that fully drains the battery)

Hello :-) For direction change, you will need to build a "H-Bridge" circuit. But you can buy H-Bridge modules.

The real trouble is the current / stall current of the motor.

21 Ampere! :-)

The Arduino pins can provide 0.02A, the TIP-120 transistor from your tutorial is rated at 5A (maximum, never exploit that).

The Tip-120 transistor or any typical small commercial H-Bridge will let out the magic smoke and stop working.

Check out a RC model motor controller. You can control them with a servo signal (Arduino library) and they are made for high currents.

Random example (not sure about it's quality, look at Amazon reviews, or Hobbyking...) //edit; Sorry, that's a 2s/7.x volt esc, also see this; Something like this would be more suited unless you run the motor on just ~7v (e.g. 2s lipo)

What are you going to control with that motor & set-up?

Hello, I was just about to order a couple days ago, then figured I should ask you all here on /r/Multicopter if you have any recommendations for changes. I can solder and have tools, is there anything that I am missing here for a complete setup? Oh I also already own a Spektrum DX6i with two Spektrum AR610 receivers.

item | link | price
-|-|-
AV transmitter/receiver | Boscam 32Ch 5.8G 600mw 5km Wireless AV Transmitter TS832 Receiver RC832 for FPV | $35.63
Charger | Genuine SKYRC iMAX B6 Mini Dual Power 6Amps 60Watts Profess​ional RC Balancing Battery Charger & Disc​harger (Version RCLITE) w/ Micro USB Port For RC Lipo Battery Cherge, Temperature Port | $36.58
Heat shrink | uxcell® 1 Meter 50mm Dia Ratio 2:1 Heat Shrinkable Shrinking Tube Black | $6.66
Flight Controller | AbuseMark Acro Naze32 Rev 6 Flight Controller W/ Straight / Bent Pin Headers, Breakout Cable, & Apex RC Products Nylon Standoffs | $39.99
Frame | YKS DIY Full Carbon Fiber Mini C250 Quadcopter Frame Kit for FPV Mini Quadcopter Part | $37.99
Motors | 4pcs EMAX RS2205 2300KV Brushless Motor 2CW 2CCW for QAV250 QAV300 FPV Racing Quadcopter | $78.79
ESC's | Crazepony 4pcs Littlebee 20A Mini ESC Oneshot125 Electronic Speed Controller 2-4S Brushless for FPV Multicopter Quadcopter | $39.99
Props | Hooshion® 16 pcs 8 pairs GemFan HD HQ 5030 5x3 CW CCW Propeller for Mini QAV250 Quadcopter (Black+Orange) | $12.59
Connectors | XT60 Drone Connectors 5 Pairs (5 Male and 5 Female) | $2.96
Battery | Turnigy 2200mAh 3S 20C Lipo Pack | $16.70
AV Antenna | Anbee® FPV 5.8Ghz Circular Polarized Clover Leaf Antenna High Gain Aerial Set w/RP-SMA Plug | $10.98
Camera | SC2000 600TVL D-WDR DNR Board Camera SONY Super HAD CCD for FPV, 2.8mm Lens, IR Blocked Filter | $33.99
| total | $352.85

Seems fine, maybe even overpriced. I got these on Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E6KMKIE/ref=od_aui_detailpages01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They've been doing great. They had blheli flashed on them out of the box.

Here are the links. Hope they work
GoolRC 2.4G FS-GT2 2CH Radio... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B007FSJM6S?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share
Tamiya RC F104 Rubber Tires Front Type A (2) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0035WV8AQ/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_nRrRCbXV5HHSZ
New 35T 540 Brushed Motor Shaft 3.175mm for Axial RC4WD Cross HPI Mist GMADE D90 D110 TF2 SCX10 ii PG4 MC8 WARAITH YETI 1/10 1/8 RC Cars https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N43NLC8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_-QrRCbJF8W72E
Hobbywing QuicRun 1060 Brushed https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LZHBJ85/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_0QrRCb27F7VQC

1. I'd highly suggest buying from Amazon. Aliexpress might be cheaper, but you can't beat Amazons return policy, literally just buy everything and if it breaks/doesn't work/doesn't fit, just return it and try again. Amazon is a big company, they can handle it. Seriously, buy as much as you can from Amazon. The two day shipping is nice too. That being said, there are some things you cant get on Amazon. In my experience, Aliexpress can take over a month. I found that diyelectricskateboard.com had the best motor mounts and pulleys for me (the ones I originally got from Amazon - you guessed it - are getting returned). It was also impossible to find any kind of motor with prime shipping, so I went with Mboards.com.
   
   
2. Double and triple check the wheel pulley will work with your wheels, currently they don't. With the spokes of the wheels you chose, you'll need a pulley with a bolt pattern like this. I made this mistake, and guess what, I returned them to Amazon.
   
   
3. I'd suggest going with Caliber trucks. The one flat edge really helps with getting the motor mount to sit square on the trucks, with round trucks like you have I found it was almost impossible to get them to be seated properly. Made this mistake with the Paris trucks and Amazon got those sent back real quick.
   
   
4. You'll want an ESC with a higher amp rating if you want to use your motor to its fullest potential. There's going to be a lot of wasted power with only a 16A ESC. The ESC will likely be one of the most expensive parts of your build, you don't want to skimp out on it. I think you'll be very disappointed with the ESC you've chosen. I'd go with something like this for a single motor build. I know, its $80, and to top it off you'll have to buy the anti-spark switch and controller/receiver separate, but you get what you pay for... 50A is going to be way more fun than 16A.
   
   
5. A $40 6374 motor seems way too good to be true, I wouldn't trust it. Go with Mboards.com or diyelectricskateboard.com for the motor and you'll get good quality and not have to wait a month to start your build.
   
   
6. Like the other guy said, get a battery with a higher amp rating too, something to match or slightly exceed your ESC.
   
   For a single motor build, I'd expect to be in the $800-$900 range.
   
   Ultimately, the prices of Aliexpress might be nice, but everything is made super cheap, and your safety is quite literally determined by how well these parts hold up. I say don't risk it. Further, you will learn a lot more about your setup once you actually have the physical parts in your hands. Your time is valuable and if you are constantly waiting on shipping just to hold the parts and what you're working with first hand, it will take ages to get it actually running. No matter what there is going to be a lot of trial and error and a lot of returns. You'll thank yourself later if you avoid buying from China.

Here I'll get you the part list you want. Should cost around 300-350 dollars. Wait you have a pixhawk? That's a very good controller, you'll be great with that but you have to learn how to use the ardupilot ground station. Your best bet is to build a helicopter and you're not going to have much luck getting a good gimbal to hold a large camera, a good idea is to get a GoPro gimbal and use fpv with that, or get a 250$ moy alexmos 3 axis gimbal on eBay.


Frame

RipaFire® F550 6-Axis Multi-Rotor Hexacopter Flame Airframe DJI FrameWheel Rack Kit with Integrated PCB Board https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00XJH1IKC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_j-LAzb6JXWXY5


Or even better


powerday S550 F550 Upgrade Hexacopter Fuselage Frame Kit PCB w/Carbon Fiber Landing Gear+powerday straps https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01CQQX0BG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_G-LAzbX6ZSR9H

Escs


6PCS ARRIS 2-6S 30AMP 30A SimonK firmware OPT Brushless ESC for RC Quad Multicopter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UL4LIM4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_h.LAzb20E108E

Good motors

Need to buy six of these total

WOAFLY 2212 920kv Brushless Motor(CW/CCW)-4 Pcs For DJI Phantom F330 F450 F550 X525 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01HM8EXJG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_jaMAzbZGRQVDY


Gps for pixhawk

Readytosky Ublox NEO-M8N GPS Module w/ Built-in HMC5883L Compass Protective Case with GPS Antenna Mount for Pixhawk V2.4.6 V2.4.8 Flight Controller https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01KK9A8QG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_hbMAzb65269DG


Pixhawk telemetry


YKS 3DR Radio Telemetry Kit 915Mhz Module Open Source for APM 2.6 2.8 Pixhawk RC Quadcopter https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0196LF6PW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_2bMAzbK2ZFC5P

Power module


FPVDrone APM Power Module V1.0 XT60 Plug Current Sensor Voltage Sensor Power Sensor Metrer 5V 2A BEC 6-pos Cable for APM Pixhawk Flight Controller 2.52 2.6 PIX https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XFW1X3K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_jcMAzbY78NFST


Pixhawk osd

Overfly Ardupilot Flight Controller Board On-Screen Display APM OSD MinimOSD、OSD Board MinimOSD APM Telemetry to APM2.0 APM2.5 APM 1 APM 2 /On-Screen Display APM OSD MinimOSD Ardupilot Flight Controller Board https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PLE4SPI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_KmMAzbWS1V41Y


Props

RAYCorp 1045 10x4.5 Propellers. 16 Pieces(8 CW, 8 CCW) Black 10-inch Quadcopter or F450 Props + 1 battery strap https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LZGJSF2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_8fMAzb4BG276N


Battery

2 of these for maximum flight time

Multistar High Capacity 3S 5200mAh Multi-Rotor Lipo Pack https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00USY19EE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_PkMAzbP558HDZ

Battery connector

Hobbypower Xt60 Dual Extension Parallel Battery Connector Cable for DJI Phantom https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00SFDUT5U/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_kmMAzbCG4NJPZ



GoPro 2 axis gimbal expensive


Walkera G-2D Brushless Camera Gimbal https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MS5UM94/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_zrMAzb4QXP50F


GoPro 3 axis gimbal expensive


Feiyu Tech Mini 3D Full Metal 3 Axis Brushless Gimbal with 6 Anti Vibration Rubber Bolt for Gopro 3+ 4 DJI Phantom 2 https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00Z9TXRZ2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_gsMAzbZX8H3GV


Cheap 3 axis gimbal

https://www.ebay.com/itm/281776499167


Fpv system

Wolfwhoop WT832 WR832 5.8GHz 40CH 600mW Wireless FPV Transmitter and Receiver for Drones https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01LQ04E5E/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_uwMAzbW9TTFM

If you need any more advice fell free to pm me I'm always available, and my email is [email protected]

Traxxas is actually a pretty good brand. You could get something like THIS and maybe a new lipo battery and he would be good to go. Unless you are set on getting a kit but you would still need a good motor/esc combo.

I currently only have a single LiPO, which I wayyy overpaid for in a store, it's just a 2S 5000mAh 25C one that I paid $50 for in a store. Have some on order from Hobbyking for half that price. As far as charger goes, I just use a Venom PR2 because it gets the job done in a decent amount of time. For anything with a capacity over 6000mAh though, I would recommend getting a charger you can plug, say, a 25A power supply into. That way, you can basically charge the majority of batteries in less than an hour.

As far as a new motor goes for the Bandit, I wouldn't buy anything brushed. You say you're a beginner, so am I, but a week after I bought the brushed Traxxas Rustler, I went down to a LHS and bought a Castle Sidewinder 3 brushless motor/esc combo as well as a 2S LiPO. I get about 45mph with this setup, but if I was to get a 3S LiPO, I've been told that I can get upwards towards 70mph. So yeah, you COULD buy that Stinger, but seriously, in a week from then you will want more power lol.

One big thing I see missing is an electronic speed controller(ESC). You will need one for each motor. The Arduino will not be able to provide enough current to power the motor. An ESC will interpret a low voltage/current PWM signal from the Arduino, and convert it into a high voltage/current signal sent to the motor. You could make your own with some beefy transistors, or you could purchase some.

As far as the battery is concerned, a good nicad battery should do the trick. It will provide 7.2V, but your speed controllers should regulate the extra voltage. You will need a charger for it, too.

And remember, always keep your control signals separate from your drive power. Feedback from the drive power could damage the Arduino. Motors are an inductive load, and will generate a back emf when switched off. Also, make sure to have a common ground. Connecting the grounds of the batteries will ensure everything is operating on the same "level".

That esc look like it has a bunch of fail points, I put this one in my Clod to take it out of the analog-days, no real need for dual batteries if you throw a 3-4s Lipo in there :)

I am using normal ESC (the blue thing to the right of the pi) as it uses a PWM signal in order to control throttle and steering!

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LMJI2N0/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_40EnDb0430C8V

The EZRUN WP SC8. I have it on mine and I can vouch for it's reliability and waterproofness. It can handle any future motor you use with ease.

Here, 4 genuine littlebees for $40 bucks. $10 each, free shipping

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E6KMKIE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I bought these guys and they are going to be delivered today! hopefully i can fly my quad for the first time today!

You can use the 12volt power supply, and then something like: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VI0L94C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_J6DWCb6KR027W with the pi itself to transform the 12v to 5v at sufficient current

You're better to grab one of these bad boys from your local gas station http://img.dxcdn.com/productimages/sku_230098_1.jpg and crack it open and use that circuit instead, though. because it's already got the protection stuff inline to keep you from cooking the pi =)

e.g. https://www.amazon.com/HobbyKing-X-Car-45A-Brushed-Car/dp/B00USQWBMG/ref=sr_1_6?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1510237413&sr=1-6&keywords=car+esc+-quadcopter

I'm assuming you can buy from amazon and that you're using motors only up to a particular size. How are you intending to make the chassis of these RC vehicles? Did you have something in mind? are you going to build with tracks? Wheels? how much are you going to spend on each bot overall?

https://www.amazon.com/38010200-Max10-3660SL-3200kV-Sensorless/dp/B073DCT1X8/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8

​

Considering this, thanks for the suggestion. Seems like a good deal, and it's about the same price of a traxxas velineon. Probably gonna sell my current motor and esc in my rustler and swap it out with this one.

Yeah sorry bout that 5v. I'm still very new to this for BEC's and some voltage meanings. Here's the BEC

http://m.banggood.com/Matek-Systems-PDB-XT60-W-BEC-5V-12V-2oz-Copper-For-RC-Multirotors-p-1049051.html

I've always used Matek http://m.banggood.com/Matek-Systems-PDB-XT60-W-BEC-5V-12V-2oz-Copper-For-RC-Multirotors-p-1049051.html

They don't have the same one I use on there though I get mine from Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01FLG0J8K/ref=sxl1?qid=1465279423&sr=1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B073W3Y6X2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

from the suggestions below the best middle ground seems to be

https://www.amazon.com/Castle-Creations-Sidewinder-Waterproof-NC1406-5700KV/dp/B00AQYMNE6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1478883490&sr=8-1&keywords=010-0115-02

now if I could just find it cheaper!

Hi. I finished building this kit last thursday.

I am using a flysky 3 channel radio. This ESC. I am using this charger, but you could probably find a better on. And i am using this battery. I had to change the plugs into xt60's. Look at my profile and check my threads. I've created multiple asking for help, and theyre all really solid advice.

Just got these ESC's. What is the target configuration for blheli? I'm not sure waht ESC to select.

I had one do exactly that. Was flying just fine. Put it into acro for the first time and did a roll. It did the roll and just went down spinning in flames. I have these on the way today and I can hopefully report good news back.

The TX and RX are good, as are the lipos. The motors I used are these. They are okay for what they are. Here are the escs I used. It depends on what you want this for. If its just a toy, then these are a good choice. If you want it to move like a real rover, Id go with smaller geared motors and make an assembly [like this] (http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1341059) so that the wheel pods can rotate like the real rover. This post shows another rover of similar size. They used servos as the motors, making it REALLY slow and only speed. If you have the ability to design parts yourself I highly recommend tailoring the .sldprt files Ill put out with it to what might work for you.

these little bees

this fc

Hmmmm was hoping to boycott Chinese ESCs . Oh well..... this is next up on the chopping block.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00P8EQX68/ref=mp_s_a_1_5?qid=1450320770&sr=8-5&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_FMwebp_QL65&keywords=esc+brushed I should probly stop buying a cheap ass and spend the money on somth8ng i know will work. But if these can do the job at 1/4 the price i gotta give them a chance.

I have this one:

http://www.amazon.com/Hobbywing-WP-SC8-Waterproof-Brushless-Controller/dp/B008N5EXKC

I love it. It can also handle a 4s lipo if the motor can handle it. I have used it in my old savage flux 2350, my slash 4x4, and my Wraith. it is a little large though. Another option:

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__42478__Turnigy_TrackStar_Waterproof_1_10_Brushless_Power_System_3520KV_80A_USA_warehouse_.html

Yes, it is hobbyking, but it is in the US warehouse so shipping is not as bad. If you want something with a warranty, look at the Castle Mamba ESCs, or any of the brands that have a US presence. A funny thing I noticed was that many companies like Orion(Kyosho), HPI, etc. have rebranded Hobbywing escs. The first esc I posted is actually used in the Kyosho Mad Force VE, and it is branded as a Orion esc. The HPI Bullet also uses a Hobbywing esc.

Brushless setups run so much cooler and they don't have the brushes that generate more friction, or pop off the commutator on a hard landing. They are a little more expensive because you will need to upgrade your ESC to do it, but it is well worth the extra expense. I purchased this kit based on a lot of great reviews and recommendations, and I am very happy with it, it accepts up to a 3S, and runs incredibly well.

https://www.amazon.com/Castle-Creations-Sidewinder-Waterproof-NC1406-5700KV/dp/B00AQYMNE6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1494174438&sr=8-1&keywords=castle+sidewinder+3

This one has a 5700kV rating. The Castle Sidewinder is sold in several configurations, I have the 3800kV one on my 1/10.

Ok that makes sense. This is the one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FLG0J8K

https://www.amazon.com/LittleBee-Violent-Electric-Control-Quadcopter/dp/B076J5PWDD/ref=mp_s_a_1_11?ie=UTF8&qid=1538930491&sr=8-11&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65&keywords=little+bee+esc&dpPl=1&dpID=51ny0OMv53L&ref=plSrch

I bought the servo, motor, and ESC on amazon. I'll link them for you below. The battery is something I had on hand already but really it could probably use something smaller. Mine is about 2 x 1 x 0.6" and its a tight squeeze. The receiver is also something I already had. I use the same transmitter for most of my rc's, so I have a bunch of these small receivers. I'd be happy to answer any other questions you have! Hope this helps!

Servo: https://www.amazon.com/SMAKN-Control-Aircraft-Flight-Direction/dp/B014SEP58U/ref=pd_ybh_a_25?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=MNGMGCF30KGC31V038YE

ESC: https://www.amazon.com/ZTW-Mantis-Slim-Airplane-Flying/dp/B0747N3KSP/ref=pd_ybh_a_29?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=A6BYBQZ27Q6AR0MQWDPG

Motor: https://www.amazon.com/DYS-Multi-rotor-Brushless-BE1806-Multicopters/dp/B07CTM6RPJ/ref=pd_ybh_a_41?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=9D8JJZKX7FXKYENNJEDT

I have a stupid question about ESCs. A lot of the videos I see, it states if you have a BEC on the ESC that you need to take out one of the wires that connects to the flight controller. Well the ESC's I'm looking at

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__65153__Turnigy_Multistar_20A_V2_ESC_With_BLHeli_and_4A_LBEC_2_6S.html

seems to have to be updated with their adapter (which I don't mind getting) but the adapter uses the third wire. What are my solutions here? If it matters, I'm going to be going with the SP f3 Deluxe for a FC. I might have heard wrong though about removing the wire, if I did, please let me know

Edit: I also don't know if this matters, but I plan on going with a Matek 3.1 PDB

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FLG0J8K/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=2CVAC8HPAQ7L6&coliid=I340F0A14LFORD

my littlebees work on 6s

these: https://www.amazon.com/FVT-Electronic-Controller-Multicopter-Quadcopter/dp/B01JKY1R80/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1494335479&sr=8-3&keywords=littlebee+30a

u/soacahtoa if you have these it should be working

Something like this would do the trick:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VI0L94C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_J6DWCb6KR027W

Input is 5.5v-23v and outputs stable 5v 3a

I can offer to make parts if provided the part file then send it to you or i can try to find one but i would add you may wanna do a traxxas vxl motor and esc many motor mounts out there

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First i'd buy the mount and motor Mount Motor depends what motor you wanna do

Looks to use one of these motors

https://www.amazon.com/Traxxas-6634-Alias-Quad-Copter-Motors/dp/B00HS48VM0

​

https://www.amazon.com/Traxxas-LaTrax-Quadcopter-Bearings-3x6x2mm/dp/B01M4HEWXU

not sure what these bearings are for but they're on the list.

Don't see replacement gear/ propshafts for it but here is the vehicle he gutted to make his

https://latrax.com/products/alias?t=overview

props can be gotten from traxxas/ latraxx probably easily found on amazon too. Might be able to get gear/ propshaft too.

Then carbon rods, tubes, balsa wood, superglue can be gotten in appropriate sizes from amazon quad hobby sites maybe hardware stores.

Reciever just type in the name of the reciever. Don't see it on amazon looks discontinued. The servos are on the reciever so you want somethings like that. Found one 6400 or 6410L looks pretty similar and has 2 attached servos for the elevator and rudder.

https://www.amazon.com/AR6410L-6-Channel-Receiver-Intergrated-Aircraft/dp/B07RJ17WRT?th=1

Also

This is a gearbox/ motor combo so wouldn't need the latraxx motor and has gearbox and propshaft.

https://www.amazon.com/HobbyZone-Gearbox-with-Motor-Champ/dp/B003DYUTB0/ref=pd_sbs_21_t_2/142-3762669-0460137?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B003DYUTB0&pd_rd_r=af157c17-626f-478f-bbde-00df134f7216&pd_rd_w=0AqTh&pd_rd_wg=X0CL3&pf_rd_p=5cfcfe89-300f-47d2-b1ad-a4e27203a02a&pf_rd_r=JBYKEA2F4V3SDABS9H2G&psc=1&refRID=JBYKEA2F4V3SDABS9H2G

You'll also need a tx controller that matches with the reciever or get a different reciever. There are others with attached linear servos or you can buy 2 small linear servos.

BEC

I thought that might be the case, so I went ahead and bought this,will it work?


BW® RC Servo BEC UBEC 3A 5V for Helicopter Airplane Receiver Servo Power Supply
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VI0L94C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_mwHUDbH5HH1ZH

[This](Makerfire F3 Flight Controller 10DOF like SPRacing Deluxe for Racing Drone like QAV250 QAV180 QAV210 etc https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01JS1Z38A/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_VyroybQB1NQCD) and [this](Crazepony F3 Acro Flight Controller 6DOF Cleanflight for FPV Multicopter Quadcopter Supported Oneshot ESC ( with Case ) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E58V1N2/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_fAroybXKN71X1)

This [one](Crazepony Matek PDB Power Distribution Board 5V 12V BEC Output for FPV Multirotor Quadacopter ( 36mm*36mm, Version 3.1 ) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FLG0J8K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ri1nybR286W6Q)

My suggestion is to go online and purchase a brushed ESC and replace that whole thing. It will run longer, stronger, and better with one. And likely solve your issue.

Something like This esc on amazon would work and is relatively cheap.