Best rc power plant & driveline systems according to redditors

Please get a proper electrical system on your ebike before you burn your house down.

If you can't solder and your current demands are low and you can crimp well, then you can use presoldered connector pigtails.

This is almost certainly better than you twisting wires together and wrapping it with tape, but a proper soldered joint to a proper connector is best. Make sure you have enough power in your soldering iron, I use a Weller WESD51 station and it makes short work of 8 gauge wire and XT90 connectors.

Someone asked me for a parts list via PM. I am a lazy man, so this is a 100% Amazon Prime build:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CJGIWIA/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00T0BH8WS/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001Q13BIU/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00H95C0A2/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007OYAVLI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B007OYAVLI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004FHO5Y6/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00T2U7R7I/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00DYQYLQQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00TIY5JM8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s02?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00ZHF3RHQ/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B018JWCX8M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

a common method is to use high viscosity oil to achieve the desired slip. I run 500,000 weight oil in the center diff on my Monster GT

The charge time really isn't all that bad. It'll charge back up in 10-15 minutes. I really thought it'd bother me but I'm totally okay with it. This is the perfect starter copter to learn how to fly these things.

If it's really a deal breaker and you're okay with spending more, one of the cheapest way you're going to get significantly improved flight time would probably be a Hubsan X4, a 5 pack of batteries, a simple charger, and a prop guard for about $70 before tax.

I'd call that step 2 in the hobby though and would absolutely recommend the Cheerson CX-10 as step 1.

Which ones in particular? Here is 20 props for $8.99... Amazon

Depends on what you want to run. The default answer is always going to be a Traxxas Velineon system or a Castle 3800 with an MMP or the SCT version. Make sure you do a little price shopping as I'm sure you can find better prices on both. Those seems to be the most popular with slash's. Both are awesome - if you plan on trying out 3S lipo I would go with a Castle for sure and it's cheaper to boot, but the Velineon system is pretty much plug and play as the ESC will bolt right in and go.

My platinum has the Velineon in it and I've been pretty happy with it, runs great. ~37MPH on 2S lipo and 13/54 stock gearing. However it doesn't agree with 3S as it gets too hot. When it comes time to upgrade one of my brushed trucks to brushless (when the motor goes out) I'm going to put my Velineon in it and buy a castle 3800 or 2650 for mine and swap fully over to 3S.

As far as batteries go most all of them can run Nimh or 2s lipo - some will run 3S A LOT better especially in the temp department. But that's mainly up to tires/gearing and your driving style.

I'm assuming you're talking about maintaining a speedcube.

Pop out an edge, once in a while (every few hundred solves, maybe) clean out the cube dust that accumulates. Use a wet cloth (or a tissue, if you're lazy)

Re-lube (try traxxas 50k for lube. It'll last you for years) with a few drops of lube. Put a drop on the edge, and a drop on the base of a corner. If you're up for it, unscrew and lube the core (a small drop on each of the screws/springs), but you don't really NEED this.

I actually didn't know what I wanted to build first, I'm a software engineer so I was exited to actually write some software and see an object moving hahaha, so eventually a Car came to mind, since it's fun to see it go and move around.

So, to start I looked in amazon for a chassis and wheels and I found this kit that looked pretty simple and functional, so I got that, and then since it only brings 1 motor, I got this to be able to move to the sides, at this point I had no idea how to make that work, but I just figured stuff up on the go, I didn't know how to move the motor so I searched for youtube videos and found out that I needed a motor controller again, amazon was my best friend haha, I also got this battery.

After that I was able to make the Car run, the problem was, I needed some kind of way to guide it, because randomly moving around wasn't that fun, so I came out with the design of the robot looking around I found this module and it was just what I needed, I had a few servos and other components from a mix kit that I got with the Arduino, and I used that (and my girlfriend's help with deciding where to put the pices to make them look nicer) to build the robot that you saw on my first post and then I used this BT module to build the manual mode that you can see in my second post and you know the rest of the story, I'm not sure if I missed something, but let me know and I can answer any question :)

If you want to lube it use this guide:
http://youtu.be/s4paID_54lQ

Best (for the price) lube:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000BOLVFI/ref=mp_s_a_1?qid=1367526514&sr=8-1&pi=SL75

Also do a bunch of solves, then try and take out the torpedoes and see if you like that feeling better (I do but some don't)!

Now go play! :)

Frame: SabotageRC Dingo 5

FC: Bardwell F4

ESC: Racestar Anniversary Edition 4-in-1 ESC

VTX: TBS Unify Pro

Receiver: FrSky R-XSR

Motors: EMAX 2205-S

Camera: Caddx Turbo Micro F2

If you can buy this Traxxas 50k from amazon

If you only want to buy one tube of lube, buy 50k. It's the same as weight 5 on SCS but you get more for the price.

If your just trying to find a lubricant for your speed cube. I think your better off with [traxxas 50k] (http://www.amazon.ca/Traxxas-5137-Differential-Oil-Weight/dp/B000BOLVFI). Traxxas is good and plus its 10$.

If your settle on getting silicone spray. I heard you should get CRC silcone spray.

I'd recommend Traxxas 50k You can usually get it for pretty cheap at a local Hobby RC store or here on amazon

If you don't wanna buy the Traxxas 50k at a hobby store you can get a 2oz bottle (60cc) for about $7 which is cheap.

https://www.amazon.com/Traxxas-5137-Differential-Oil-Weight/dp/B000BOLVFI

Since you have all the different "weights" I can tell you will need to test them to see which one matches your style, then after that naturally you will be narrowed down to a few lubricants maybe even 2-3, as you will see what fits or doesn't. Traxxas lubricants are cheap and the standard bottle is 60cc for about $7 on Amazon and $5 to a online hobby store I use. However cubicle lubricants are still useful but if you need a wallet friendly alternative then Traxxas is the way to go. However I always recommend a bottle of 50k around you it's pretty much universal. Alot of people just lube the core of their cube with 50k, lube 4x4's with 50k (when you break it in it feels amazing), and 2x2's.

30k, and 50k and some thin weights is all you ever honestly need and since your getting Lubicle Speedy, you won't need 10k, but yea. Goodluck

That's my 2 cents.

Traxxas 50k is one of the most common differential oils that is used on cubes. Lubix is a differential oil with a huge markup. You don't need much lube at all to get one properly lubed. CBC did a video on how to lube a cube, it's a Zhanchi but you can apply the same thing to all cubes.

For general bashing and on Amazon, the Castle Sidewinder 3 isn't a bad option. They've got a 3800kv, 4600kv, and 5700kv if you want different motor options.

I like my Hobbywing stuff so far, but the price might be a bit more for ESC and motor through Amazon.

What I did right

• Bought high-quality parts (mostly)
  
• Laser-cut center logo
  
  • I originally tried cutting this out of grip tape. The results were... suboptimal. The laser-cut plastic looks amazing and was only ~$10 after free credits. I ordered it through Ponoko. New accounts get a $20 credit towards making stuff, and they have a huge range of materials to choose from. I used this material, which comes with adhesive pre-applied as well as being quite flexible.
    
• Custom fiberglass enclosure
  
  • This was probably the part of the build that took the longest. Due to me not sizing the enclosure correctly (see below), I decided it would be easier to make an enclosure rather than scouring the internet for one that fit. This was my first time working with fiberglass, so it turned out a little rough. But it does the job and conforms to my deck way better than any pre-bought enclosure ever would. It’s currently secured to my deck with screws threaded directly into the wood. The holes are strengthen with superglue. So far this has worked well (5+ screw in/outs), we’ll see if it holds up. If the holes start stripping I’ll just put some threaded inserts in.
    
• Installed a Bluetooth module
  
  • Although I haven’t gotten wireless configuration working yet, it’s really nice being able to see stats on your phone. I’m on iOS and use the Xmatic app which is very-well designed. It even comes with a companion Apple Watch app so you can easily check your speed and battery life while riding.
    
    

    Mistakes I made
    

    
    

1. I didn’t add extra clearance to the battery size when shopping for an enclosure. I originally bought this enclosure from MBoards. But either the enclosure or the battery was slightly bigger/smaller than the advertised dimensions and the entire enclosure bowed out when I tried shoving the battery in. Cables never had a chance of fitting. This turned out to be a bit of a moot point anyways, because...
   
2. I choose a deck with too much flex/bow. Even if the enclosure did fit the battery, attaching it to the underside of my deck would have severely warped it.
   
3. I destroyed two $10 42V chargers. The first was destroyed by plugging it in backwards to the battery (i.e. red -> black and black -> red on the battery connector). We don’t talk about the second one. ^(Ok maybe I plugged it in the exact same way expecting something else yes I’m an idiot)
   
4. I didn’t cut the grip tape very cleanly. Lots of rough edges, grip tape is harder to apply properly than it looks.
   
5. My paint job on the enclosure turned out a little sloppy because I didn’t properly secure the stencil.
   
   

   Potential upgrades
   

   
   

• New paint job on bottom (I might just go all-black and remove the design)
  
• New grip tape (with more consistent edges)
  
• Reverse-mounted motor (so I can use my dropdown like it was intended)
  
• Sleeker fiberglass enclosure
  
• Handle (I have no idea how to do this, any suggestions are welcome)
  
  

  Parts
  

  
  

• Motor Mount
  
• Pulley System
  
• 3250W 180KV Motor
  
  • This thing has an insane amount of torque, it chews up hills without slowing down at all. Very happy with this motor.
    
• Remote
  
• Caliber II Trucks
  
• Power Switch
  
• Longboard Deck
  
  • It’s cheap. Didn’t expect much, but it’s actually fairly nice (at least for a traditional longboard; as noted elsewhere there’s a bit too much flex for it to be a good electric board).
    
• Orangatang Kegel Wheels
  
• VESC
  
• BLE Module
  
• Charger
  
• 10S3P Battery Pack
  
  • This battery with its integrated BMS was plugged in to charge with its polarity accidentally reversed twice (see above), and it still works great.
    
    I spent a total of ~$770 on this board (including wasted parts). It's more than I wanted to spend but I expect it'll last a long time.
    
    Specs:
    
    
• Top speed: 28 MPH (in theory, I've only actually gone up to 16 MPH because of safety concerns :P)
  
• Range: 25-30 miles (extrapolated from the voltage drop on a ~2 mile ride, haven't had time to go on a ride that fully drains the battery)

No, this is what many people use for cubes. It works great and it is a lot less expensive than other lubes. It is meant for plastic parts on RC cars, so it is completely silicone based. This weight is not reasonable for cubes, so many people use 50k weight. You can get some here.

Edit: Also, the 500k is going to be extremely viscous, don't use it for cubes. This person is doing it for fun, not to improve their cube.

Both can be great cubes. What is your preference? The Shuang Ren is a much dryer, faster feeling cube, while the AoLong is a smooth, clicky feeling puzzle. Performance wise, the AoLong is a better cube, but a Shuang Ren is better for people who prefer a cube that feels slightly more stable.

Oh, and for lube, Traxxas 50k weight Differential oil. Buy a syringe like this one and use it to apply the lube. Hope I helped!



Edit: You may want to visit this page to consider other possible options. There's a world of cubes out there.

I figure this may help anyone thinking about building a brushed micro, but didn't know where to start or shop. This is my list of preferred of components when I'm planning a brushed micro build. Happy New Year, and I hope this will bring in some more people into the custom built micro brushed multicopter world. Good Luck and happy building!

Websites and Threads I use for info:

• Micro Motor Warehouse Community Forum - Only a few months new, and already the best source for information regarding brushed micro builds.
  
  
• RCGroups 90mm-145mm brushed micro fpv build thread - Great thread for reading about other people's builds and tips on rcgroups. Run by a very knowledgable member: 1Hammer)
  
  
  Brushed Micro Frames:
  
  
• MMW Carbon Micro-H
  
  
• MMW Carbon Micro-Hex
  
  
• Phoenix Flight Gear 135mm Micro-H
  
  
• Phoenix Flight Gear 130mm Micro-Hex
  
  
  
• SOSx Micro-X V3 130mm
  
  
  
• SOSx Dragonfly V2 Micro-Hex 130mm
  
  
  
• Picnic Efficiency Racer Frames
  
  
  
• Picnic/MMW Reggae Shark V2
  
  
  Brushed Motors:
  
  
• [Hubsan H107C/D Replacement motors 8.5mm] (http://www.amazon.com/Hubsan-H107C-H107D-Original-Quadcopter/dp/B00SKUJL2K/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1448305571&sr=8-2&keywords=hubsan+motor) - Cheap and tame. Good for slower indoor builds.
  
  
  
• Multirotorsuperstore 0820-17 motors - Fast, efficient, and cheap. Good choice if you go through a lot of motors.
  
  
• MMW Chaoli 0820-15 "Fast" motors - Good mix of power & efficiency. Ideal for FPV platforms.
  
  
• MMW Chaoli 0820-17 "Dark Edition" motors - The fastest & most expensive of the bunch. Pulls the most amps too. Not suitable for Nano QX flight controls. Best with Beef's or Multiflite FC's.
  
  
  
  Flight Controls:
  
  
  
• Blade Nano-QX FPV 4-in-1 - Good for beginners, cheap, built in receiver, not the best board for acro, and lvc is annoying, but it's the cheapest DSM2/DSMX compatible board available, and no configuration needed.
  
  
• Beef's Brushed Board - Very nice 32-bit flight control. Fully tunable via cleanflight, accepts sat receivers, optional hex adapter available. Moderately expensive.
  
  
• Multiflite Nano-B - My personal favorite. Quad or Hex capabilities, built in spektrum sat rx plug & bind button. Built in jst connector for ftdi adapter (no messing with boot pins). Fully tunable via cleanflight, Most expensive of the bunch.
  
  
• Micro scisky 32bit - Newest 32-bit controller. So far reviews are very positive, and it's very affordable. Quads only. Same as the Hobby King Quanum Pico
  
  
  
  Propellers:
  
  
• Aflunta Clear Hubsan style props - Best hubsan style props available. Very durable. Quieter & more stable than stock hubsan props.
  
  
• JJRC 1000A Props - Ladybird style, but thicker, more flexible, and more thrust than hubsan props.
  
  
• Parrot Rolling Spider props - The most thrust, largest prop radius (73mm), & most expensive. A good match for CL-0820-15 "fast" motors.
  
  Batteries:
  
  
• Nano-tech 1s 750mah Lipo - The standard for micro FPV platforms. Good blend of punch and flight time. Maybe on the heavy side for some people. Yields about 5minute flights on avg with 8mm motors and full fpv gear.
  
  
• Nano-tech 1s 600mah 35C lipo - Good lipo if you are concerned about weight. Yields about 4 minutes of flight time w/ 8.5mm motors and fpv gear.
  
  
• Nano-tech 1s 950mah 25C lipos - My choice for micro-hex builds since they have no problem carrying the additional weight. Yields 5-5:30min flights with a micro-hex w/ 8.5mm motors and fpv gear.
  
  Cameras:
  
  
• RMRC 520tvl Pico Camera - 90 deg FOV. Great picture. Great for night flying, 3g, Moderately expensive.
  
  
• 600tvl micro wide angle camera - 170 deg FOV. CHEAP!!!! Not the best picture, but... CHEAP!!! You can install a 808 camera #16 wide angle lens to bring the FOV down to 120 deg. Not the best for night flying or for a really bright day.... dynamic range isn't that great... but it's CHEAP! Did I mention it was cheap?
  
  VTX:
  
  
• Altitude RC 25mw 5.8ghz vtx - My vtx of choice for micro builds. 25mw is enough to cover a full sized football field. Built in LC filter makes for a clean picture. Fatshark band only.
  
  
• FPV Hobby TX5810 - 10mw-100mw adjustable power, 50mw default. Needs a 5v step up and lc filter for reliable usage. Smallest form factor if you need to squeeze it into a tight space.
  
  
• Oversky 200mw micro vtx - For people who run boscam equipment. Needs a 9v step-up regulator.
  
  
• FX758-2 5.8G 200mW 24CH - Another popular option for boscam users. The page says 32ch, but in reality it's only 24ch. It covers both boscam high and low bands. Great if you are comfortable building your own vtx w/ a separate dip switch module, and you have a 32ch receiver.
  
  Antenna:
  
  
• FPV Hobby 1g micro antenna - Soldering required. Not for use with vtx's that require a U.fl connector (i.e. the attitude 25mw fatshark vtx).
  
  
• True RC Clover Leaf - Nice, expensive, works great. Best if you buy this bundled in the RMRC Component fpv kit w/ the pico camera and altitude rc vtx.
  
  LED's:
  
  
• Apex RC nano-qx led kit - Simple to use and install.
  
  
• Hubsan 3v Blue leds
  
  
• Hubsan 3v White leds
  
  
• Hubsan 3v green leds
  
  
• I do not suggest using the Hubsan Red led's on a custom build since you need to use a sub-2v drop down. The Red led's run on lower voltage, and you'll burn them out if you connect them directly to a 3v power source. Use 5v red led's if you want to have red led's in a DIY build.

I personally only use Traxxas 50k, I got a medium sized bottle a couple years ago, and haven't even used half of it. Really good, makes cubes smooth, and was great on my GTS2M
https://www.amazon.com/Traxxas-5137-Differential-Oil-Weight/dp/B000BOLVFI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1504210494&sr=8-1&keywords=traxxas+50k

Not only are these more durable, they also seem to stay really well on the motor shaft for my QX90 and QX95. https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00RE5US38/

Here is about what I spent: http://i.imgur.com/ZU2hzQr.png

Edit: Table format

Link|Part|Model|Price
:-:|:-:|:-:|--:
link | Frame | Lumenier QAV-R 5 | $107.75
link | Motors | EMAX RS2205 2300KV | $76.99
link | ESCs | Littlebee 20A PRO | $49.99
link | Flight Controller | MotoLab Cyclone F3 | $40.69
link | Radio Tx | FrSky Taranis X9D Plus | $211.37
link | Radio Rx | Frsky XSR | $26.74
link | Headset | Fatshark Attitude V3 | $331.99
link | FPV Tx | ImmersionRC 600MW 5.8 | $48.98
link | FPV Antennas | Aomway | $15.00
link | FPV Camera | Foxeer XAT600M | $48.88
link | HD Camera | Yi | $100.00
link | Charger | SkyRC iMax B6AC V2 | $49.97

There may be a part or two missing. The links may or may not still be good, this is from ~4 months ago. Take out the headset, HD camera, and other FPV stuff and the cost drops by $545. These are also all high-end parts.

Edit2: Some Youtube subs
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCahqHsTaADV8MMmj2D5i1Vw
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCemG3VoNCmjP8ucHR2YY7hw
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCoS1VkZ9DKNKiz23vtiUFsg
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC9zTuyWffK9ckEz1216noAw
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UC3ioIOr3tH6Yz8qzr418R-g
https://www.youtube.com/user/EngineerX
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCX3eufnI7A2I7IkKHZn8KSQ
https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCp1vASX-fg959vRc1xowqpw

Hello, I was just about to order a couple days ago, then figured I should ask you all here on /r/Multicopter if you have any recommendations for changes. I can solder and have tools, is there anything that I am missing here for a complete setup? Oh I also already own a Spektrum DX6i with two Spektrum AR610 receivers.

item | link | price
-|-|-
AV transmitter/receiver | Boscam 32Ch 5.8G 600mw 5km Wireless AV Transmitter TS832 Receiver RC832 for FPV | $35.63
Charger | Genuine SKYRC iMAX B6 Mini Dual Power 6Amps 60Watts Profess​ional RC Balancing Battery Charger & Disc​harger (Version RCLITE) w/ Micro USB Port For RC Lipo Battery Cherge, Temperature Port | $36.58
Heat shrink | uxcell® 1 Meter 50mm Dia Ratio 2:1 Heat Shrinkable Shrinking Tube Black | $6.66
Flight Controller | AbuseMark Acro Naze32 Rev 6 Flight Controller W/ Straight / Bent Pin Headers, Breakout Cable, & Apex RC Products Nylon Standoffs | $39.99
Frame | YKS DIY Full Carbon Fiber Mini C250 Quadcopter Frame Kit for FPV Mini Quadcopter Part | $37.99
Motors | 4pcs EMAX RS2205 2300KV Brushless Motor 2CW 2CCW for QAV250 QAV300 FPV Racing Quadcopter | $78.79
ESC's | Crazepony 4pcs Littlebee 20A Mini ESC Oneshot125 Electronic Speed Controller 2-4S Brushless for FPV Multicopter Quadcopter | $39.99
Props | Hooshion® 16 pcs 8 pairs GemFan HD HQ 5030 5x3 CW CCW Propeller for Mini QAV250 Quadcopter (Black+Orange) | $12.59
Connectors | XT60 Drone Connectors 5 Pairs (5 Male and 5 Female) | $2.96
Battery | Turnigy 2200mAh 3S 20C Lipo Pack | $16.70
AV Antenna | Anbee® FPV 5.8Ghz Circular Polarized Clover Leaf Antenna High Gain Aerial Set w/RP-SMA Plug | $10.98
Camera | SC2000 600TVL D-WDR DNR Board Camera SONY Super HAD CCD for FPV, 2.8mm Lens, IR Blocked Filter | $33.99
| total | $352.85

Here, 4 genuine littlebees for $40 bucks. $10 each, free shipping

If I were looking for similar, I'd start digging into RC plane/car brushless motors. You'd need a basic motor and a speed controller. Something like an A2212 with a 30A speed controller (both available cheaper overseas...) will easily meet your needs. The speed will be controlled using PWM into the speed controller. Based on test data floating the internet for that particular motor, it'll happily do 6000-9000 RPM under normal propeller load - not sure what exactly you need to do.

> Judging by the fact that hardly any product page mentions the motors' RPM I'm guessing I'm probably doing it wrong, so suggestions and corrections are welcome.

Motors aren't sold by RPM. RPM actually depends on the voltage applied, plus some penalty for the load they're under. You'll usually get some combined rating. Brushless motors, anyway, will come with a "Kv" rating based on their theoretical max speed. The rule of thumb in the hobby world is

Motor RPM = (drive voltage) x Motor kV Rating * (efficiency%)

So assuming a 3 cell lithium pack (11.1v), a 1000Kv motor will give you ~11,100 RPM. You usually have to tack an efficiency multiplier onto that. The rule of thumb in the RC world is ~80% for a propeller (and it varies quite a bit by prop, honestly...) , but an unloaded motor might be as high as 95%.

I'm sure there's more precise math out there for this, but this is the "close enough" stuff you're going to find for hobbyist motors.

Brushed motors are a little different - you won't find a Kv rating. They'll usually have an RPM/volt rating, or a "turns" rating that can be converted. Pick the voltage you're driving them at, multiply by the RPM/Volt, and you'll get a theoretical max. But again, load will be a factor. As will heat. Usually if you kill a brushed motor, it's due to over-heating. Check their max dissipation, make sure they'll handle the voltage you need to throw at them to get the speed you want.

In RC applications, you may have a motor running in excess of 20,000 RPM with a gear system to reduce speed to something usable. Usually you'll find a wattage rating.

It's been such a journey w/ this guy, I've swapped so much out, but I should be able to put together some kind of a list.

Treads

Motors

Bottom plate

DAGU MINI Driver

2 channel 5V relay

5v/9v/12v Battery Pack

LED Flashlight NOTE: Not this one, I just bought 2 cheap ones from my local Radio Shack. Also, RIP Radio Shack. As seen in the video, they had multiple LEDs. Be sure to get those type, some only have 1 LED. Just disassemble and wire power directly to the LED arrays.

Laser pointer

Obviously a Raspberry Pi. The one I'm using is a B+, shouldn't matter much though. Also, a camera module

Pololu Expansion Plate What most everything sits on top of

5v voltage regulator Steps down 9v output to 5v, goes to the relay to power the lights and laser. NOTE: This gets HOT when in use. I also bought a heatsink and I suggest you do as well

Edimax wifi adapter The only one I trust. I've got 2 or 3 of these and they never let me down.

SG90 micro servos x2

Pan/Tilt mount for servos NOTE: I couldn't find the one I use as it came in a kit LONG ago, but something like this should do the trick

Lots of wire and solder. I highly recommend the heat shrink tubes also. A note on how power is distributed. The battery pack has a USB 5v out, a 9v out and a 12v in/out. I only use the 12v in for charging. The 5v USB powers the pi exclusively. The 9v out is where a lot of the wiring gets crazy. The ground needs to branch off to the DAGU mini driver, the 5v regulator (IIRC), lights and laser. Power goes to the DAGU mini driver and to the 5v regulator. Wiring then continues from the 5v regulator to the 5v relay, through that to the lights and servos. Doing something like all this took a lot of wire soldering, so get gud. :)

That SHOULD be a complete parts list. This robot has gone through several parts changeouts in its lifetime, including a speaker and microphone, tires and ultrasonic sensor. Ultimately though, I like this configuration best. It seems powerful and stable. My only current problem is some jitter in the servos. I need to line out what's causing that, but shouldn't be too tough to figure out.

If you have any other questions, feel free to ask.

I'm gonna copy paste something i wrote from another thread here because I'm lazy. It may not make complete sense, but its relevant ;) .

>Hey! Fellow redcat volcano owner here! Not sure if you know this already but NEVER buy from redcat's website. They are extremely overpriced. I buy from three places:
>
>AliExpress - Think of it as a Chinese amazon. parts will take about a month to come in on average, but they're cheap. Btw, I would pick this up. And these
>
>Amazon - Usually a little bit more expensive but much quicker. Espicially with Prime. Buy some dogbones from here so you can get the volcano up and running!
>
>Lastly, if all else fails try ebay.
>
>I shop all three for the best deals!

I was only able to find your replacment ESC on Hobbypartz, but I would just upgrade honestly. Also, I've never used that website before, so use caution (as always with the internet).

As for an upgrade, I don't know enough so I'll leave that to some more experienced users.

Here is a set of EPX turnbuckles/rods I found on Amazon. It looks like Redcat uses the same length for all 6 turnbuckles. As others have already mentioned Redcat uses the EPX chassis for a variety of vehicles like this one. If you just search Redcat EPX on Amazon you will find plenty of parts.

As for the part you mentioned "the thing that connects the rod to the differential" is this in the center or one of the dogbones that puts power to the wheel like this one? If you look at the first link with the turnbuckles you will see they are bought together frequently because without a turnbuckle the dog bone can go missing.

It should handle much easier/cleaner with the diff. If you don't like it you can put some extremely thick oil in it and you'll send more power to the rear that way.

500k is the thickest Traxxas makes. It'll make it drive more like it used to but still have a bit more of a stable straight-line pull. It doesn't last forever though, it breaks down and gets thinner with use.

500K Diff Oil

I am using normal ESC (the blue thing to the right of the pi) as it uses a PWM signal in order to control throttle and steering!

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00LMJI2N0/ref=cm_sw_em_r_mt_dp_U_40EnDb0430C8V

Your best bet is to order it online. It does depend on what lube you want, if you want the professional lube, get it from SCS or Cubicle, but if you just want some simple lube, get some Traxxas on Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/Traxxas-5137-Differential-Oil-Weight/dp/B000BOLVFI/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=silicone+lube+traxxas&qid=1563613705&s=gateway&sr=8-5

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Traxxas-TRA5137-Differential-Oil-Weight-x/dp/B000BOLVFI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1495038082&sr=8-1&keywords=traxxas+50k is this the same 50k used with cubes? Just that differential oil sounds weird to me.

Nope it’s an Armattan Mongoose frame here are my parts:

Frame
Armattan Mongoose $38.50: https://www.armattanquads.com/mongoose-1/

Flight Controller
RTFQ Freestyle FC $24.00 : http://www.readytoflyquads.com/rtf-freestyle-flight-controller-v15

ESC’s
Racerstar 35a Anniversary 4in1 $30.99: https://www.getfpv.com/racerstar-special-anniversary-edition-35a-blheli-s-4-in-1-esc.html

Video Transmitter
Unify Pro HV $29.99: https://www.getfpv.com/fpv/video-transmitters/tbs-unify-pro-hv-5g8-race-sma.html

Camera
Caddx Turbo Micro F2 $22.99: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FQHNZFG/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_J76LBbBSEZYBE

Motors
EMAX 2205-S $70: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01M9GOQC5/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_JmAHBb2NP8HH2?th=1&psc=1

Receiver
FrSky R-XSR $23.99 : https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074QHJRBC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_8NwHBbR660HCF

Total Price = ~$250

My other non stock parts: [motors] (https://www.amazon.com/Crazepony-4pcs-6x15mm-Motor-Speed/dp/B01M4QRVA1/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1499744771&sr=8-3&keywords=tiny+whoop+motors), [flight controller] (https://www.amazon.com/BEEBRAIN-V1-2-FLIGHT-CONTROLLER-WHOOP/dp/B01N9W1Y5K/ref=sr_1_1?s=toys-and-games&ie=UTF8&qid=1499663783&sr=1-1&keywords=beebrain), [batteries] (https://www.amazon.com/Crazepony-230mAh-Battery-Inductrix-Connector/dp/B01N6GP1WO/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1494890571&sr=8-5&keywords=tiny+whoop+batteries), [props] (https://www.tinywhoop.com/products/eachineprops)

I currently only have a single LiPO, which I wayyy overpaid for in a store, it's just a 2S 5000mAh 25C one that I paid $50 for in a store. Have some on order from Hobbyking for half that price. As far as charger goes, I just use a Venom PR2 because it gets the job done in a decent amount of time. For anything with a capacity over 6000mAh though, I would recommend getting a charger you can plug, say, a 25A power supply into. That way, you can basically charge the majority of batteries in less than an hour.

As far as a new motor goes for the Bandit, I wouldn't buy anything brushed. You say you're a beginner, so am I, but a week after I bought the brushed Traxxas Rustler, I went down to a LHS and bought a Castle Sidewinder 3 brushless motor/esc combo as well as a 2S LiPO. I get about 45mph with this setup, but if I was to get a 3S LiPO, I've been told that I can get upwards towards 70mph. So yeah, you COULD buy that Stinger, but seriously, in a week from then you will want more power lol.

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Traxxas-5039-Differential-500K-Weight/dp/B0015YZJAG

Aw man! I picked up a Hubsan x4 a couple months ago and I didn't know they had a camera version! And it's only $10 more than the one I got without the cam. Yarg! I guess I'll grab one with the camera when this first breaks.

To OP, if you get a Hubsan x4, the blade guard and crash pack are extremely handy. The quad just bounces off walls and the extra props/battery are fantastic.

Warning you - it gets expensive, haha. If you get the Hubsan there are a few other parts I would reccomend. THey may all be cheaper on Banggood (they ship from the US for some stuff too!)

Reccomended stuff:

Prop guard

Extra batteries to keep you flying longer

Extra props


Edit: also check out /r/multicopter

Traxxas is actually a pretty good brand. You could get something like THIS and maybe a new lipo battery and he would be good to go. Unless you are set on getting a kit but you would still need a good motor/esc combo.

Firstly, I'd consider getting the GAN 356 X because money isn't a problem, as you said. Of course, if you have a reason for getting the 354 M (such as small hands), go ahead, but if you do not, then you should get the GAN 356 X.

Moreover, I simply do not believe that getting Cosmic or Supernova or whatever The Cubicle offers is ever worth it unless you do not have the time to set up the cube yourself. My reasoning is that all lube setups are temporary, and the lube will eventually dry out. With all of the money that you spend for someone else to set up your cube, you could easily buy lube for yourself that'll last you much, much longer. For example, check out this Traxxas 50K offer on Amazon: https://www.amazon.com/Traxxas-5137-Differential-Oil-Weight/dp/B000BOLVFI

50K is widely used as both a core lube and a piece lube (although, it's not that good of a piece lube imo), and this huge bottle costs less than $10. Adding this lube into your cube is extremely trivial as well, so I see no reason to let other people set up your cube, especially because it costs so much.

If you want a good piece lube, I'd recommend Angstrom Gravitas and Angstrom Dignitas ($10 as a bundle) from The Cubicle. Gravitas is a super long-lasting lube, and the combination of these two lubes in my Valk 3 M is the best lube setup I've ever tried on it.

TL;DR There is no need to pay so much for someone else to set up your cube (lube is temporary anyway) when you can just buy a whole bunch of lube and set up your cube yourself for however long you'll use it for.

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Traxxas-5137-Oil-Differential-Weight/dp/B000BOLVFI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1538679658&sr=8-1

You can buy new xt60 connectors at hobby shops (rc/drone) or on amazon and many others.


Do not wait to fix it, it will get worse, I know from experience.


I bought pre soldered connectors and all I needed was a heat gun and snips to fix mine.


50pcs Solder Seal Wire Connector,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DPS8DPM?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share


4pcs XT60 Plug Male Female... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073QJWVVK?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share


It was a 5 minute fix and no issues since, my connectors stay room temp now.

If you don't have traxxas 50k, get that first just due to the versatility of it, being able to use 50k on both the core and sparingly on the pieces. You can get it over on amazon here.

If you still do have more budget, I would recommend lubes specifically for the pieces. Stuff such as TheCubicle's Silk, DNM-37, and Lubicle One, or Cosmic lube from SpeedcubeShop will do as well. These lubes are less viscous than 50k and are great for being used on the pieces.

50K differential oil is the lube of choice for the core. You may want to acquire a syringe as it is very easy to over lube without one. If you intend to lube the pieces you will need lighter lube, around 30K.

1. I'd highly suggest buying from Amazon. Aliexpress might be cheaper, but you can't beat Amazons return policy, literally just buy everything and if it breaks/doesn't work/doesn't fit, just return it and try again. Amazon is a big company, they can handle it. Seriously, buy as much as you can from Amazon. The two day shipping is nice too. That being said, there are some things you cant get on Amazon. In my experience, Aliexpress can take over a month. I found that diyelectricskateboard.com had the best motor mounts and pulleys for me (the ones I originally got from Amazon - you guessed it - are getting returned). It was also impossible to find any kind of motor with prime shipping, so I went with Mboards.com.
   
   
2. Double and triple check the wheel pulley will work with your wheels, currently they don't. With the spokes of the wheels you chose, you'll need a pulley with a bolt pattern like this. I made this mistake, and guess what, I returned them to Amazon.
   
   
3. I'd suggest going with Caliber trucks. The one flat edge really helps with getting the motor mount to sit square on the trucks, with round trucks like you have I found it was almost impossible to get them to be seated properly. Made this mistake with the Paris trucks and Amazon got those sent back real quick.
   
   
4. You'll want an ESC with a higher amp rating if you want to use your motor to its fullest potential. There's going to be a lot of wasted power with only a 16A ESC. The ESC will likely be one of the most expensive parts of your build, you don't want to skimp out on it. I think you'll be very disappointed with the ESC you've chosen. I'd go with something like this for a single motor build. I know, its $80, and to top it off you'll have to buy the anti-spark switch and controller/receiver separate, but you get what you pay for... 50A is going to be way more fun than 16A.
   
   
5. A $40 6374 motor seems way too good to be true, I wouldn't trust it. Go with Mboards.com or diyelectricskateboard.com for the motor and you'll get good quality and not have to wait a month to start your build.
   
   
6. Like the other guy said, get a battery with a higher amp rating too, something to match or slightly exceed your ESC.
   
   For a single motor build, I'd expect to be in the $800-$900 range.
   
   Ultimately, the prices of Aliexpress might be nice, but everything is made super cheap, and your safety is quite literally determined by how well these parts hold up. I say don't risk it. Further, you will learn a lot more about your setup once you actually have the physical parts in your hands. Your time is valuable and if you are constantly waiting on shipping just to hold the parts and what you're working with first hand, it will take ages to get it actually running. No matter what there is going to be a lot of trial and error and a lot of returns. You'll thank yourself later if you avoid buying from China.

I did tons of research today and I found from many many YouTube videos, Traxxis 50k is the best. It's cheap, and there is a lot of lube inside the tube. It works great for all cubes. I actually bought a tube for myself today. Here's the link. [Traxxas 50k Lube](Traxxas 5137 Differential Oil, 50K Weight https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000BOLVFI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_j.ItybSA4VN9D)

I hope this helps!

Looks like this guy with the double gearbox upgrade.

You're getting 5cc for $3.89.

A bottle of Traxxas, which is largely the same stuff, at 50cc (or 10x as much) for $7.99 or less in some places.

You're paying 77 cents per cc, whereas Traxxas is 16 cents per cc.

taking it apart and cleaning the pieces with a cloth might help if there's any dust/dirt buildup slowing your cube down

otherwise i recommend buying something like lubicle speedy to lube your cube with, i personally use traxxas 50k but some people don't like the feel it leaves on larger cubes compared to a thinner lube like lubicle speedy

Got my traxxas 50 early :D

Still breaking in my yuxin little magic since people reccomend not to lube until it's well broken in, so rn using my good ol' qiyi warrior that got lubed up. It's turning pretty darn well now (was kinda gummy before idk why, didnt lube it before), but how long does lube last?

I got this btw

if that changes anything (like different types of traxxas 50k? idk)

Seems fine, maybe even overpriced. I got these on Amazon:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E6KMKIE/ref=od_aui_detailpages01?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They've been doing great. They had blheli flashed on them out of the box.

I'm a fan of the traxxas 50k (but I might try 30k) I've used it probably 30 or 40 times and only used about 1/3 of it so it will last you forever. It's longer lasting than silicone sprays so there is more consistency over time.
It also seems to spread itself throughout the cube better, so you don't really need to disassemble, spray, then reassemble to get an even coat.

Also, many of the silcone sprays can damage the plastics, slightly melting or eroding the surface. Some even say on the packaging they are not safe for use on plastic.

I had a close call during one of my first flights. Have yet to actually make contact with a bird though, fortunately.

Also, this is a great chance to replace those props if they're stock. Stock ones tend to fly off. These are my favorite so far.

Thank you!

Here's what I plan on buying so far

• Crazepony camera
  
  
• Crazepony battery foam
  
  
• Crazepony upgrade motors
  
  
• Eachine ev800
  
  
• USB Charger
  
  
• Crazepony batteries
  
  
• Blade Inductrix RTF
  
  I plan on soldering the camera to reduce weight.
  
  Should I get anything else? Or swap any products?
  
  Thanks.

But you live in the world of internet, and the internet has it: https://www.amazon.com/Traxxas-5137-Differential-Oil-Weight/dp/B000BOLVFI

Couple questions about lube

Seems the general consensus is to go with the:

https://www.amazon.com/Traxxas-5137-Differential-Oil-Weight/dp/B000BOLVFI/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?keywords=traxass+50k&qid=1564327271&s=gateway&sprefix=traxass+50&sr=8-2

Is there anything else you would recommend that would go hand and hand with this?

Is Traxass50k ok for internals and plastic?

Will I need some type of applicator, or will the built in bottle dispenser be sufficient?

Any help is appreciated, thanks guys

A lot of people use Traxxas lube (myself included). Maybe 10-30k on pieces and usually 50k on core.

Anybody use this shit though? Like damn. Some thick ass lube.

No. WD-40 is known to harm cubes. I'd suggest checking out any cubing store for specialized lubricant. Personally, I use Traxxas differential oil and I heard that it's basically the same as other lubes. Its pretty cheap, especially considering how much they give you.

You should try Rubik's Cube lube. It is rated by viscosity and weight 5 is pretty thick.

https://thecubicle.us/cubicle-silicone-lube-c-35_64.html

EDIT: Found a good cheap alternative too which has around the same viscosity of around weight 4 of above.

http://www.amazon.com/Traxxas-5137-Differential-Oil-Weight/dp/B000BOLVFI

Save yourself even more by getting this. Its basically the same as lubix but much much cheaper. You could also try 70K instead of 50k (the viscosity) for a more loose lubricant.

These? https://www.amazon.com/AFUNTA-Transparent-Propellers-Quadcopter-Helicopter/dp/B00RE5US38

Traxxas 50k

Do you want a physical store, or is Amazon an option?

Traxxas 50k is optimal for cubes IMO. Maru is light and doesn't last long or give as much of a buttery feel. It's good for short speed boosts, but I don't like it in the long run. 50k is pretty nice once broken in. It works for both the hardware and pieces

http://www.amazon.com/Traxxas-5137-Differential-Oil-Weight/dp/B000BOLVFI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1462239118&sr=8-1&keywords=traxxas+50k

As seen it is frequently bought together with cubes

Is this it?

​

I am definitely going to get this if I can. Also, do I lube the exact way J perm does it in his How to Lube a Cube video?

What about these?
2 Pairs HOBBYMATE 2204 2300KV CW CCW Brushless Motor & 4 PCS BLHeli 12A ESC for For Mini 180, 210, 220, 250 RC Multirotor Quadcopter Drone

http://www.amazon.com/HOBBYMATE-2300KV-Brushless-Multirotor-Quadcopter/dp/B01E56CUSO/ref=pd_sim_sbs_21_1?ie=UTF8&dpID=51vm8VevvLL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL320_SR320%2C320_&refRID=120F5ACDN12AWC8RBB1C

I have a stupid question about ESCs. A lot of the videos I see, it states if you have a BEC on the ESC that you need to take out one of the wires that connects to the flight controller. Well the ESC's I'm looking at

http://www.hobbyking.com/hobbyking/store/__65153__Turnigy_Multistar_20A_V2_ESC_With_BLHeli_and_4A_LBEC_2_6S.html

seems to have to be updated with their adapter (which I don't mind getting) but the adapter uses the third wire. What are my solutions here? If it matters, I'm going to be going with the SP f3 Deluxe for a FC. I might have heard wrong though about removing the wire, if I did, please let me know

Edit: I also don't know if this matters, but I plan on going with a Matek 3.1 PDB

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FLG0J8K/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=2CVAC8HPAQ7L6&coliid=I340F0A14LFORD

This stuff?

E3D V6 hotend

Noctua fan for hotend cooling (I hosed the original using a heat gun to assist bed temps for ABS) https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009NQLT0M/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Cheap as hell 5015 2 pack part cooling blowers https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B071WMHNG5/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o05_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

This kickass heavy duty customizable mount https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2494642 printed in PETG

I replaced my hotend with a microswiss right away and jacked up both it and the original, but learned a lesson and added plugs to everything. Hotends usually come with crimpable plugs, but they're all different so I standardized on these for fans https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M5AHF0Z/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And this type (xt60) for the hotend cuz current https://www.amazon.com/Female-Connector-Housing-Silicon-Battery/dp/B073QJWVVK/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1517496061&sr=8-5&keywords=xt60+connectors

All of the plugs made my wiring kinda fat, so when you join the Bowden tube, the wiring, and the ezabl cord its just heavy enough to droop lower than the gantry and get rubbed back and forth during prints. I designed a chain link style support in blender that anchors at the extruder and velcro'd the bundle to it. It allows free xy movement but not z. It works really well but could prolly be optimized. 😃

My printer came with the bed heater wiring strain relief already printed and installed, definitely do so. Also, get a dial gauge. Seriously. Print a gantry mount for it and slip it on to use it when needed.

it depends on the lube, if you want a durable lube then i suggest traxxas 50k -> https://www.amazon.com/Traxxas-5137-Differential-Oil-Weight/dp/B000BOLVFI

it's a huge bottle and is cheap and is often used in cubing :) it will last you a year or more

I would replace the VTX you chose for the tx526 as you can change it's output power and it isn't as massive as the ts832 (you will most likely run into problems mounting it in the martian 220).

Like another commenter said, you should buy bigger motors, maybe rs2205s I can vouch that the rs2205s are practically indestructible and run very very smooth.

You should get 4s batteries, I use tattu 4s 1300mah 75c batteries on my martian 220 with rs2205s motors and just this week I got a shipment of cnhl Lipos.

You should get VR-D2 Pros goggles, they are much better bang for buck, diversity+dvr for 90$.

Ok that makes sense. This is the one: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FLG0J8K

Brushless setups run so much cooler and they don't have the brushes that generate more friction, or pop off the commutator on a hard landing. They are a little more expensive because you will need to upgrade your ESC to do it, but it is well worth the extra expense. I purchased this kit based on a lot of great reviews and recommendations, and I am very happy with it, it accepts up to a 3S, and runs incredibly well.

https://www.amazon.com/Castle-Creations-Sidewinder-Waterproof-NC1406-5700KV/dp/B00AQYMNE6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1494174438&sr=8-1&keywords=castle+sidewinder+3

This one has a 5700kV rating. The Castle Sidewinder is sold in several configurations, I have the 3800kV one on my 1/10.

In that case, I guess you could just buy a single bottle of 50k which will cost you around ~$20, which will still help you with the spring noise, but it is also the same price of the set in the regular amazon, so if you can source some from there, then it could save you some money than buying from amazon.in (also people say traxxas lasts forever, which makes it a good investment)

​

But if you're r e a l l y tight on budget, people say Gan Magic Lube is pretty nice and costs around ~$6 on thecubicle.com (idk about India prices), but won't really help with your spring problem.

Is something like this a terrible idea?

HOBBYMATE Quadcopter Kit Motor ESC Combo, 2 Pairs CW CCW 2204 2300KV Plus 4 PCS Upgrade BLHeli 15A ESC for For 180 210 250 RC Quadcopter Drone Multirotor https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01E56CUSO/ref=cm_sw_r_taa_HzCRybSZYYHC0

Ah, thanks. One last question, would you happen to know how much lube is in this bottle? I can't find an amount anywhere, but I'd like to get a ballpark estimate of how long it'll last.

I have bought 4 of these

I live in Canada and it's $10 here. American it seems it's $7.

http://www.amazon.ca/Traxxas-5137-Differential-Oil-Weight/dp/B000BOLVFI/

http://www.amazon.com/Traxxas-5137-Differential-Oil-Weight/dp/B000BOLVFI

Seems like everyone is assuming he wants a kit and to build it himself, but I don't see that you said that. So, is that the case?

Will this be his first multicopter? If so, I would recommend something that is ready to fly (RTF) right out of the box. There are lots of good options, but I really enjoy my Hubsan x4 simply because how easy it is to get replacement parts. The price and reliability are nice as well ;)

You can put him together a nice "kit" with a hard case, spare parts, extra batteries for about $175 $135 on Amazon. It will be RTF, but also give him room to learn about the platform and repair mistakes.

EDIT: Actually a little cheaper... if he has not flow before, this is a fun, cheap christmas present.

Complete Starter Kit for Hubsan x4 | ------------
---|---
Hubsan H107C | $54.00 |
Carrying Case | $24.99 |
Crash Kit | $17.50 |
5 Extra Batteries | $18.39 |
Battery Charger | $6.36 |
Prop Guard | $2.73 |
------------|------------
Total | $123.97

The most popular seems to be Traxxas 50k. It's pretty cheap; I'd give it a shot.

Traxxas 50k from RC hobby shops or online is a popular choice. Or Lubix (direct or from specialty cubing sites) to get a very similar substance in a nice application syringe with a cool sticker.

Crazy Bad Cuber lubing video. I seems like the main mistake people make is using too much lube which slows down your cube.

http://www.amazon.com/Traxxas-5137-Differential-Oil-Weight/dp/B000BOLVFI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1417888698&sr=8-1&keywords=traxxas+50k

If you haven't bought it yet, get this. Pretty much everyone uses or suggests it.

Only from Amazon?

• Get this ultrasonic sensor
  
  
• This gear box: http://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-Double-Gearbox-Independ-4-Speed/dp/B001Q13BIU/
  
  Then build a obstacle avoiding robot. DIY the chassis.
  

I can offer to make parts if provided the part file then send it to you or i can try to find one but i would add you may wanna do a traxxas vxl motor and esc many motor mounts out there

​

First i'd buy the mount and motor Mount Motor depends what motor you wanna do

These are the kind I have: https://www.amazon.com/HOBBYMATE-Quadcopter-2300KV-Upgrade-Multirotor/dp/B01E56CUSO/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1480907048&sr=8-4&keywords=esc+motor+combo

This is my wiring:
ESC Wire 1------------------------------------------Motor Wire 1
ESC Wire 2------------------------------------------Motor Wire 2
ESC Wire 3------------------------------------------Motor Wire 3

I can also send a picture if that helps.

I believe Amazon beats SCS on price if you're in the US (I'm not).

I've been pretty happy with these clear props:
http://www.amazon.com/AFUNTA-Transparent-Propellers-Quadcopter-Helicopter/dp/B00RE5US38/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1451986117&sr=8-1&keywords=hubsan+clear+props

They seem more bendable/durable than the stock ones.

BEC

The chassis :https://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-70108-000-Tracked-Vehicle-Chassis/dp/B002DR3H5S/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1505124972&sr=8-1&keywords=tamiya+tracked+vehicle+chassis+kit
The Double motor gearbox:https://www.amazon.com/Tamiya-70168-Independent-Double-Gearbox/dp/B001Q13BIU/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1505124972&sr=8-2&keywords=tamiya+tracked+vehicle+chassis+kit

I thought that might be the case, so I went ahead and bought this,will it work?


BW® RC Servo BEC UBEC 3A 5V for Helicopter Airplane Receiver Servo Power Supply
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VI0L94C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_mwHUDbH5HH1ZH

Ideal is 30k - 50k wt not 30-50 wt

It will work but you need something much thicker. This is shock oil. You want differential oil which is just really thick shock oil. 900 CST = ~67 wt and ideal is 30k to 50k wt (apparently ~1250461 to ~2291130 cst (accidentally said wt instead of cst) ).

I think if you get this, it will either be like water and do nothing to the cube or basically be like maru lube that lasts longer which can be a good thing (maru lube makes cubes super fast but doesn't last very long).

This [one](Crazepony Matek PDB Power Distribution Board 5V 12V BEC Output for FPV Multirotor Quadacopter ( 36mm*36mm, Version 3.1 ) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01FLG0J8K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_ri1nybR286W6Q)

from the suggestions below the best middle ground seems to be

https://www.amazon.com/Castle-Creations-Sidewinder-Waterproof-NC1406-5700KV/dp/B00AQYMNE6/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1478883490&sr=8-1&keywords=010-0115-02

now if I could just find it cheaper!

Something like this would do the trick:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VI0L94C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_J6DWCb6KR027W

Input is 5.5v-23v and outputs stable 5v 3a

You can use the 12volt power supply, and then something like: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00VI0L94C/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_J6DWCb6KR027W with the pi itself to transform the 12v to 5v at sufficient current

You're better to grab one of these bad boys from your local gas station http://img.dxcdn.com/productimages/sku_230098_1.jpg and crack it open and use that circuit instead, though. because it's already got the protection stuff inline to keep you from cooking the pi =)

https://www.amazon.com/Traxxas-5137-Differential-Oil-Weight/dp/B000BOLVFI
I'm a cuber so I wanted to make use of the spare lube that I have

Just get this One little dab (a little smaller than a pencil eraser) will do your entire 3x3, a bit more will do bigger cubes, it's confirmed safe for puzzles, and is pretty thick. If you use the right amount, you hardly know it's there, except your puzzle is a bit quicker and smoother.

I get that it's twice the price, but it's worth it, I think, to get something proven to work, than something that'll probably run like water (it's mostly Polyalphaolefin, which may degrade plastics, a cursory Google search tells me).

Yeah, from Amazon you can get it here:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Traxxas-TRA5137-Differential-Oil-Weight/dp/B000BOLVFI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1427838040&sr=8-1&keywords=Traxxas+Lube

Replace .co.uk with .com if you want

Yeah sorry bout that 5v. I'm still very new to this for BEC's and some voltage meanings. Here's the BEC

Excellent. You've been SUPER helpful! Another question. Since the new frame is a bit heavier I got beefier motors:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M4QRVA1/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
and to compensate for the additional power needs I picked up denser batteries:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MQE0SI4/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

It has good performance now, sure, but the flight times did not even out between the motors and the bigger batteries. I now only get about a minute of flight time instead of 2-2.5 minutes.

Any advice on what to check or tweak to make sure I'm getting the most out of the batteries? I looked around online and I've seen a lot of variation among people's flight times, and I've read about cheap hacks like cutting two of the props on each propeller to increase flight time (not sure of the engineering rationale for that battery savings).

Edit - Definitely the motors causing the drain. Swapped the stock motors back in and more than doubled the battery life. They stock motors definitely don't have the punch and I lose altitude on sharp turns, but I'm shocked they cause that much drain. Any ideas?

Edit 2 - Ordered the upgraded pigtail connector from TinyWhoop: https://www.tinywhoop.com/products/upgraded-battery-pigtail. Will see if that helps the power drop on the stock motors and the flight time on the upgraded motors.

http://m.banggood.com/Matek-Systems-PDB-XT60-W-BEC-5V-12V-2oz-Copper-For-RC-Multirotors-p-1049051.html

I've always used Matek http://m.banggood.com/Matek-Systems-PDB-XT60-W-BEC-5V-12V-2oz-Copper-For-RC-Multirotors-p-1049051.html

They don't have the same one I use on there though I get mine from Amazon
https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01FLG0J8K/ref=sxl1?qid=1465279423&sr=1&pi=AC_SX236_SY340_QL65

In looking closer at the parts on your truck, I don't believe it is the E-Firestorm 10T Flux, but the E-Firestorm 10T http://hpiracing.world/en/kit/10551. It came with the controller and motor you have. The controller you have is the SC-15 which is NOT LiPo-battery-compatible and only supports brushed motors. It was upgraded by HPI at some point to the SC-15WP, which was waterproof and also supported LiPo batteries. The motor you have is still available to buy. You can read reviews on it here: http://www.amazon.com/HPI-Racing-1146-Firebolt-Motor/product-reviews/B001MVXMQK

Here is the mobile version of your link

Is the ESC required? What would be the difference without it?

I found a brushless motor with an ESC

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01E6KMKIE/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I bought these guys and they are going to be delivered today! hopefully i can fly my quad for the first time today!

Just got these ESC's. What is the target configuration for blheli? I'm not sure waht ESC to select.

I had one do exactly that. Was flying just fine. Put it into acro for the first time and did a roll. It did the roll and just went down spinning in flames. I have these on the way today and I can hopefully report good news back.

Would this also work because I have it at home https://www.amazon.ca/gp/aw/d/B000BOLVFI/ref=mp_s_a_1_1?qid=1458503710&sr=8-1&pi=SL500_QL40&keywords=Rubiks+cube+lube&dpPl=1&dpID=41oEMSxS9OL&ref=plSrch

these little bees

this fc

Thanks, I have heard of the ladybirds now that you mention it. I picked up this set from Amazon:

Haha I still have the stock motor in mine. Do you think it would handle a stronger motor that isn't brushless? I was thinking of ordering this motor.

ah gotcha, those look nice but are a bit out of my budget for now :(

have you heard anything good/ bad about these?? https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01CL6Q0RM/ref=ox_sc_act_title_6?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=A36AZVMIXMN0IJ

Sp f3

Maker fire 12amp https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01F6WYHPU/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And this is what I think caused the problems https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01FLG0J8K/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Instead of the crash pack i'd suggest buying parts separately. Crash packs have some stuff youll probably never need. The only things you have to worry about replacing are props, motors, and propguard if your X4 didn't come with one (check underneath the plastic box insert, on some units it's taped there).

Great props: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00RE5US38?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o04_s02

also sold as combo with propguards, although i've only tried clear ones that are only sold separately

Motors (for H107L): http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00SKVZMU4?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o09_s00

You will lose a little bit of flight time with the stock battery and motors. The carbon frame is a tad bit heavier than the plastic.

I recommend these batteries now that you have the room and these props... I get around 12-13 minutes of actual flight time with that setup. No, not hover time... moderately aggressive flight time.

Be aware that your lift to weight ratio is now a bit smaller, and if you use the stock flight controller the craft will want to "dig" when you tilt forward to pick up speed quickly. With higher power motors this will likely not be as big an issue. Don't get me wrong though, it still flies like a beast, but it requires more attention than the original symmetrical layout.

Also, the LEDs are now extremely difficult to use for orientation. Consider purchasing some bigger ones to mount on the corners.

Good luck!

Edit: Here's mine with only new frame, battery, and props: http://imgur.com/bx9QRQg

Edit 2: The foil tape is a temporary measure to protect the original motor wires, which were too short to be secured to the body/arms. The new motors have much longer wires and will be secured properly while soldering in.

For motors, I'm looking at these fyi.
They include 1 ECS per motor

Motors