Best stop hinges according to redditors

You want a friction hinge.

I just made a small ring box for my wife, used one of these

Though not exactly what youre describing
I just bought an incipio faraday (advance)
and the cover that covers the screen flips around back
and creates a flat surface for your kickstand to stand on.
and makes it far more "lapable".
And you dont loose any functionality.

to be honest I doubt youd be able to ind something like that because the surface is marketed around the kickstand and I doubt that it would be a good business move for case designers to create a case that impeded with the basic function of the tablet.

Though I imagine making your own using some friction hinges like this and a few sheets of plastic http://www.amazon.com/Friction-Hinge-Stainless-Height-Torque/dp/B005P0H0HQ made to grip the top and bottom of the tablet wouldnt be impossible to make.
Then again it wouldnt be nearly as robust or good looking unless you had access to a cnc machine or a 3d printer.

Either way good luck.

> Okay, onto the more technical questions.
> If you want to inlay the trim, you shouldn't need anything special besides an appropriately sized bit. i'm not exactly sure where you're planning on doing the inlay though.

This amazing drawing shows that in red. Or I could place it just under the lid. Both ways, I am concerned, may not mesh with the finger joints I'm planning to use. I suppose I could always space them out so I don't have any joints in the way of the inlay. The moulding is 5/16" x 3/4" and the straight bit that came with the router is a 5/16" straaight cut. I'd have to research/practice this LOTS on scrap pieces if I went with it. The other option would simply be to leave out the original base that's shown in the original picture and use this, which is 1425-8 3/8 in. x 7/8 in as the base or do the same thing (remove the base pictured) or use this one as the base and it is 7/16 in. x 3/4 in. These are basically my three otions. I was initially going to put feet on it but I feel like maybe the ornamental touch of themoulding might make the much smaller lily pattern I'll be doing on one lid corner stand out a bit. (It's leaves and all)

Shit, I could also do the inlay right around the middle of the box and space my finger joints accordingly since I don't think I could have one where the inlay is, could I? Also, this is Redwood Cedar I'm using, If you were to use the pine (i think) ornamental moulding, would you stain it first? If so, what color?

> A mortised lock will be bored into the edge of your piece, so that the lock is fully trapped by the wood, then held in place with screws. The locks on the doors in your home are mortised locks. A half-mortised lock would still be cut into the wood, but one face of the lock would be exposed. I'm not sure if it would be on the front, or the back. It might depend on the lock. Either ought to be doable with a router.

I did do some research on this one today and decided to go with the half mortise with the exposed portion on the inside (hopefully) so I can perfectly center the plaque with the name on it and it doesn't get in the way of anything.
> For a hinge, this is probably the simplest way to go: https://www.amazon.com/Jewelry-Box-Stop-Hinge-Plated/dp/B0063D7P5G/ref=sr_1_12?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1485304357&sr=1-12&keywords=jewelry+box+hardware+hinges.

Thank you so much for suggesting this. I did see this earlier because I was worrying myself about what type of chain to install or special inside hinge (the'yre quite expensive). Correct me if I'm wrong but I think on a smaller box, such as the one I am making, the best look would be two small hinges versus the long one.

I appreciate your input so much I can't even put it into words. Not to mention I haven't finished putting the accessory pieces on the table saw yet because I'm so worried about the whole design. By now, I should have at least started with the box itself but I'm a planner and can't help it.

I feel like by the time I'm done with this project I'm gonna have 5 or 6 left over to sell or something.

Sketchup was a little difficult for me to figure out in my limited time so I think I'm going to use Gimp to put all these ideas "on paper" so it all makes sense. That'll probably help it come together a lot more quickly. And all the input from here is extraordinarly helpful. My father taught me to make a simple jewelry box when I was much younger so I'm sure I can pull this off. The difference is that I used his standard design instead of adding anything on my own. When I text him earlier asking whether or not I could use that trim as an inlay his exact response was, "I couldn't... You couldn't... You need too much more practice." Well, I believe this IS my practice. So again, I thank you so much for your input and hope I've described everything so that it makes sense.

Okay, onto the more technical questions.

1. If you want to inlay the trim, you shouldn't need anything special besides an appropriately sized bit. i'm not exactly sure where you're planning on doing the inlay though.
   
   
2. A mortised lock will be bored into the edge of your piece, so that the lock is fully trapped by the wood, then held in place with screws. The locks on the doors in your home are mortised locks. A half-mortised lock would still be cut into the wood, but one face of the lock would be exposed. I'm not sure if it would be on the front, or the back. It might depend on the lock. Either ought to be doable with a router.
   
   
3. For a hinge, this is probably the simplest way to go: https://www.amazon.com/Jewelry-Box-Stop-Hinge-Plated/dp/B0063D7P5G/ref=sr_1_12?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1485304357&sr=1-12&keywords=jewelry+box+hardware+hinges.
   
   
   

Decorative 90° Stop Hinges, Brass, Pair
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BJ1ZWIY/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_EaHQzbV70NTCN