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FM transmitters will reduce sound quality. Bluetooth will reduce sound quality. You have both, so they're both reducing the quality of the sound.

Radio stations have huge towers to produce a strong signal, which you're picking up with the antenna of your car. The transmitter you're using produces a very weak signal, which is fine to produce a small "station" for your car, but isn't strong enough to transmit the bass and treble of audio.

So, there isn't any way to increase the quality of an FM transmitter (that I know of). Which leaves you two options.

1. Buy an aftermarket head unit for your car that has bluetooth or an auxiliary input.
   
   
2. Get an FM modulator. This is what I use in my car. It's sort of like your FM transmitter, but instead of producing a little bubble station to play audio over it you plug it in behind the radio and it takes over the stations. Instead of broadcasting a station, it's hardwired to play louder than other stations. It's CD quality audio. I'm not an audiophile, but I really like good quality sound and it sounds amazing.
   
   This is what I purchased. I've had it in my car for about 3 years and it's worked flawlessly the entire time.
   
   This one has bluetooth, but is a lot more expensive.
   
   Good luck!

You can try a combustion leak tester. It's made to detect combustion exhaust gases in your coolant system, which only occurs if there's a headgasket leak between the cylinders and cooling system/water jackets. I don't know what you guys have across the pond, but auto parts stores here will rent the tool out for free (with a security deposit that is returned when the tool is returned), you just gotta buy the bottle of liquid. ...if you can find an employee that knows what the heck you are talking about lol. Last time I needed one, I had to try several different stores before I found someone who knew what it was.

They look like this:https://www.amazon.com/UView-560000-Combustion-Leak-Tester/dp/B000NPDL76


It does sound like your head gasket is a goner though. Unless there's a crack in the metal somewhere, it shouldn't need a new head, but you should get the head resurfaced to ensure it's flat. We don't have any machine shops in my area, so last set of head gaskets I did, I used a big thick mirror as a flat working surface and glued sandpaper onto it and used that to sand down the head. People here will probably discourage this, but it's a decades old tried-and-true DIY method.

the turbo piece get the book
maximum boost

https://www.amazon.com/Maximum-Boost-Turbocharger-Engineering-Performance/dp/0837601606/ref=sr_1_1?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1500339982&sr=1-1&keywords=maximum+boost

the rebuild piece plenty of rebuild books out there, check this one out since its very similar (import 4 cylinder)

https://www.amazon.com/High-Performance-Honda-Builders-Handbook/dp/1884089216/ref=sr_1_3?s=books&ie=UTF8&qid=1500339882&sr=1-3&keywords=high+performance+engine+build

to do it right you will need some new tools to your collection.
borescope (plasti gauge), ring files, piston ring compressors, torque wrench, feeler gauges, straight edge, to name a few
a great machine shop (more than just the head resurface, line hone, bore and hone, valve guides/seats/angle cuts)
a factory service manual is key (torque specs and specific details on your engine vs a basic covers it all book).
Research your cars engine and see what have worked well for others. let them teach you what parts to stay away from.
good luck

I actually restored my headlights on my own not too long a go. After reading reviews for several online, I decided on 3M's. Benefit to the 3M kit is you don't kill your wrist since you're doing all the sanding with a drill instead of by hand. Just be sure to apply the tape (not included) LIBERALLY, especially around sharp corners so you don't scratch your paint.

If you think it's mostly through the tread I would just complete the puncture and use a plug kit to patch http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000ET525K/ref=s9_top_hm_awbw_b13u23_g263_i1?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=mobile-hybrid-11&pf_rd_r=0SA3YB452VVP3N16PZ0Y&pf_rd_t=30901&pf_rd_p=659a304f-fb85-5f26-beb6-828a8e1c046a&pf_rd_i=15706711


I know a lot of folks will recommend a tire patch (as opposed to the plug) but are cheap and I've found them to be really effective. Very easy diy.

Ok in your case go buy this.
https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-22058-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL8VD2

Put a dab of it in each spark plug wire side. Or where the coil boot goes onto the spark plug if you have coil on plug instead of a coil and spark plug wires.

While each plug is exposed, pull it and check the spark plug gap. I don't know your vehicle but you can guickly Google what the gap should be. Adjust to that if it's way larger. If it's smaller like ". 035 like how most are sent from the factory. Don't worry and reinstall them.

This is all step one before you move on to vacuum leaks.

>I rolled the window down, then looked over and saw this when I tried to roll it up again.

Wow.....I'm impressed. I've never seen that before.

But they are just glued into a metal channel attached to the window regulator that moves them up and down. There are a couple of adhesives for this, but the one you'll likely be able to use is 3M Window Weld. The professional adhesives will require pre heat. And this should work just fine. I've used it because I don't install glass for a living and don't have something to heat a tube of crap like the pro stuff requires.

Get it on there and roll the window up until it dries/cures (whichever it does). At least a day to be sure. Then you know the window is in the right orientation to roll up all the way and seal.

As other posters have said, you'll need to pull the "door card" (all the trim inside) off to access this.

I have to say again.....just wow. I had no idea they made them this badly.

http://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-34t5-Bluetooth-Android/dp/B005NLQAHS

This is what I use. I would stay away from the mini blue ones. I hear they have more issues not working on cars. The one above worked on a 99 chevy c1500, a 99 toyota camry, a 2002 protégé 5, a 2012 mazda speed 3, and a 2002 toyota tacoma.

I use torque pro as my app. It reads code plus a whole lot more. There is a version to check out for free as well, however it costs 5 dollars. Torque lite is the name of the free program.

Definitely. I have this one with Torque and it works great. There are different ones and prices (I got this one for ~$14) The scanners you have just give you an error code, these give you so much more information. Plus the live data readouts with the engine running are just fun to watch.

I agree with the other posts about using penetrating oil. Another you could try is to use an oil filter wrench like this. I use something almost identical with an extension, as the oil filter in my car is fairly buried. I find that it works much better than the wrap around kind. You could also try the generic method of increasing torque which is to use a ratchet with a longer handle.

If you have a smart phone, you can get one of these:

http://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-PIC18F2480-diagnostics-compatible/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1377738160&sr=8-1&keywords=bluetooth+obd

You can use a free app called "Torque" which gets you a lot of good information. There are other cheaper obd2 bluetooth readers, but they have fewer reviews. (I'm sure they're fine). You get more information than a basic cheapo obd2 reader at the same cost.

Yeah, that would work to get some stuff out, but to shine them, albeit temporarily, spend the $12 and get this:

https://smile.amazon.com/3M-39008-Headlight-Restoration-System/dp/B001AIZ5HY/ref=sr_1_4

If you have an electric drill, this is more fun and you can do more parts of your car:

https://smile.amazon.com/Foam-Drill-Polishing-Inch-Buffing/dp/B076ZJMHB1/ref=sr_1_23

$45 from amazon. This one can be used on many cars and trucks too. It's a nice quick little diag tool that can save you tons of money in the long run. I'd charge you $65 for a diagnostic (Labor)
http://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-MV4560-Radiator-Cooling-Pressure/dp/B003V9L05G/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1368137222&sr=8-1&keywords=radiator+pressure+tester

Try this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001AIZ5HY/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_3FSCDb7XBRWXF

I've used it before, and it worked pretty well. However, make sure to tape around the borders of the headlights

Yeah it's a coolant leak allright then.

Techniques for coolant leaks:
Pressurize the system, listen and look. Maybe not this one, but you get the idea:
https://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-MV4560-Radiator-Cooling-Pressure/dp/B003V9L05G/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1504476535&sr=1-2&keywords=coolant+pressure+tester

UV dye. Same, not a recommendation, just a link to the concept.
https://www.amazon.com/FJC-4972-Fluorescent-Leak-Detection/dp/B008QEYTZ4/ref=sr_1_2?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1504476572&sr=1-2&keywords=coolant+UV+dye+kit

But with your rate of draining, you should be able to find it just by eyeballing. Bet that engine compartment is cramped. 'Course they make stuff for that too. Mirrors on sticks, borescopes.


Jags love to mark their territory.
Check the radiator, hoses, especially where they connect or have a junction. Check the water pump.

I installed an FM antenna bypass module to my car's factory radio. You may need to buy additional adapters to make it fit your stereo's antenna. I was in a similar situation as you where my climate control system was a part of the stereo and this seemed to be the most cost effective option.

I don't have this onebut it seems to have good reviews.

Google play store has the torque pro app.

3M Window Weld works best.

[I bought one of these - it works great for clearing codes, while letting you google the problem] (http://www.amazon.com/Autel-MaxiScan-MS300-Diagnostic-Vehicles/dp/B001LHVOVK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1371376822&sr=8-1&keywords=obd+ii+scanner)

I recently purchased one of these handy little gadgets that help me determine intermittent no start issues. http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000EVWDU0/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i01?ie=UTF8&psc=1
You plug it in before starting to get an idea of the level your battery is at, while starting and cranking. Also, you can get a GENERAL idea of battery drain by checking level when you turn car off and checking next morning before starting. Best way is for a shop to hook a test light in the circuit to represent battery draw. However, a minute draw is normal as well. Have you installed anything aftermarket like alarms, amplifiers, or have anything hooked to your cigarette lighter? Anything weird youve noticed with lighting? Also, if you do not connect a boost box, charger, or anything and let it sit, will it start back up later? Also, when the problem occurs and the engine "gives up" do the lights dim down and it starts doing multiple clicks?

I got some Li-Yang one on Amazon for like 12 bucks and use it with the Torque app on Android on my LG G5, works great.

Panlong, my bad. Here it is: Panlong PL-B02 Bluetooth Car Diagnostic Scanner Code Reader (OBD2 OBDII Check Engine Light for Android - Compatible with Torque Pro) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PJPHEBO/

In the interim, if you are so inclined, you could buy a cheaper OBDII sensor with an app on your phone that will allow you to monitor the temps.

One like this: https://www.amazon.com/Panlong-Bluetooth-Diagnostic-Scanner-Android/dp/B00PJPHEBO/ref=sr_1_8?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1549475699&sr=1-8&keywords=obdii

Though that is for android phones, I know Iphones are a little more picky.

It connects via bluetooth and shows you all the measurements by your ECM, it also reads and clears check engine codes.

I have the same scanner, it's not very good. They use a knockoff ELM327 chip which doesn't work very well.

You're better off with something like this: http://www.amazon.com/Autel-MaxiScan-MS300-OBD-II-Scan/dp/B001LHVOVK/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1319057551&sr=8-2

I have both and never use the bluetooth one, the standalone unit is much more convenient and reliable.

Good recommendation, just buy a code scanner.

OP, here's one for 20$ on Amazon:
http://www.amazon.com/Autel-MaxiScan-MS300-Diagnostic-Vehicles/dp/B001LHVOVK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1345574036&sr=8-1&keywords=obd+II+scanner

I was reading the reviews on that, and it looked really good. Was this the one you were thinking of?

I just did a head gasket on a 98 Accord, and the coolant was gushing like a gyser out of the top of the radiator. Also, you could literally hear the compression leaking past the gasket and out the side where the head and block meet. Like everyone else has said, you most likely blew the head gasket, but you can't be positive over the internet. If you want to know for sure, they sell testers online, but its still a little difficult to use these if coolant is splashing out of the top of the radiator. Anyway, good luck!and remember, when in doubt, tow it out.

Get your own scanner or borrow one from a friend and check the codes

https://www.amazon.com/OBD2-Scanner-OBDII-Code-Reader/dp/B011Q18D14/ref=sr_1_7?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1504576697&sr=1-7&keywords=obd2+scanner

It could be many things.

Please don't quote wikipedia. It makes my mind hurt how much incorrect information on turbo systems is spread. If you want to go read something useful go read Corky Bell's Maximum Boost. http://www.amazon.com/Maximum-Boost-Turbocharger-Engineering-Performance/dp/0837601606

The ONLY reason for a BOV/Recirc valve is to allow the turbocharger to remain at speed between shifts. It does nothing to reduce wear on the engine (the throttle plate is closed), and again, "surge loading" against the compressor shaft, which is really only just minor overpressure, only occurs when there is no intercooler present. The reason they become useful then is wear on the pressurized tubing/joints from popping off the fittings. A lot of non-intercooled low pressure systems (< 1bar) don't even have recirc valves (84-89 300ZX Turbo)

Good, Here is a good/simple OBDII reader.

https://www.amazon.com/Oxgord-Scanner-Engine-Diagnostics-Direct/dp/B011Q18D14/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1467576362&sr=8-4&keywords=obd2+reader

Yeah I thought about grabbing a coolant tester. Might try the Mityvac brand from Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/Mityvac-MV4560-Radiator-Cooling-Pressure/dp/B003V9L05G

Battery terminal protector instead. I've had the same can for about 8 years. It has lasted many a car.
Clean the terminals and clamps with a wire brush, spray a coat of the protector on everything and add some fiber washers. I've never had terminal corrosion issues.

>I don't know very much about cars obviously, don't really know what your saying or how to do it.

In this day and age: a lack of knowledge is a choice.

Google up: OBDII scanner. Here is a How To

Check Amazon: OBDII scanner. Here is one for $15 that will probably do the job

You need to learn about cars because your actual life and well being depends on it: literally, figuratively, financially and physically. It is the most expensive and dangerous thing that you will own. If you don't think your car is important: try getting by in life without one.

Probably the first upgrade any turbo car owner should be is buying this book: http://www.amazon.com/Maximum-Boost-Turbocharger-Engineering-Performance/dp/0837601606/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1342897180&sr=8-1&keywords=corky+bell

Corky Bell is a damn smart man, and he even runs BEGi, who specializes in turbo systems for Miatas mostly, but they make a bunch of universal parts as well.

Thermostat on an 06 impala isn't hard, but make sure you buy a [funnel] (http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx/Radiator-Funnel-Kits/_/R-SER774000_0120219865) to [burp] (http://youtu.be/xYkKW0OyeUc) the system, because you get tons of air in it afterward. You can't do it without it, and you'll overheat if you don't do it right.

Also make sure the replacement has the pin hole up top when you put it back in, otherwise you'll get air trapped in it.

You should consider getting a [scanner] (http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B005NLQAHS/ref=redir_mdp_mobile/186-1207838-8188355) which will tell you what the codes are. You can usually figure out the fix from there

They sell test kits like this one that you use. Here's a video to explain things.

Visually, dried antifreeze usually shows up as a white flakey residue.

Found these, at least one size should fit the external diameter of the stem. I'll replace that, fill up the master cylinder, check it, bleed the brakes, and let you guys know how it all went.

You can try a lugnut removal tool like this:

http://amazon.com/Performance-Tool-M980-Emergency-Removal/dp/B000FTN3KK?sa-no-redirect=1

Buy this: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

When it arrives, dowload Torque Lite, plug in the scanner to your OBD2 port(usually somewhere under the steering wheel, you can look up where exactly it is in your car). Once you plug it in, turn the car on(just on battery is fine), pair the scanner to your phone, and start the app. Then, in the app, load the logged fault codes. Look 'em up and you'll know exactly what's up with your engine. Then go get that stuff fixed


Edit: also, until you do this, drive the car as little as possible, since you don't know what's wrong with the engine.
Hope this helps!

If those slide pins end up seizing, you'll probably end up with uneven brake pad wear and random noises coming from your brakes (this is caused because the brake pads are still in contact with the rotor even if you release the brakes Those pins are what guides the pads to the rotor at the correct angle. If they're seized, you'll end up with stuck calipers that grind even if you're not braking. The grease is cheap, so there really isn't a reason not to do it. The bottle below will last a lifetime. Also, make sure those rubber boots are intact, if they're ripped, replace them.

https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-24110-Ultra-Brake-Caliper/dp/B000HBNV6W

Thanks for posting this. I wish there were more posts like this!

1. Sounds like your steering is neutral, or you had a bad alignment job. Did you replace all the ball joints yourself?
   
   
2. If the plastic cover annoys you, remove it.
   
   
3. I'm not really a shill, I promise.
   
   
4. Was going to suggest you get a multimeter and check the voltage regulator.
   
   
5. The noise is usually from a bad idler pulley. Good catch!

It won't help you now but for the future you should get a reader. There is a cheap one ($17.10 with Prime) on Amazon. I have had it for awhile and it comes in very handy.

http://www.amazon.com/Autel-MaxiScan-MS300-Diagnostic-Vehicles/dp/B001LHVOVK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1373629767&sr=8-1&keywords=odbii+reader

I'd just get it on amazon, http://www.amazon.com/Permatex-22058-Dielectric-Tune-Up-Grease/dp/B000AL8VD2/

You can get one of these from Amazon and connect to an app called Torque on your phone to pull live data.

I want one now..

http://www.harborfreight.com/universal-3-jaw-adjustable-oil-filter-wrench-69021.html

or this thing:

http://www.amazon.com/Worlds-Best-Universal-Filter-Wrench/dp/B000UD0CTQ

Download Torque on your phone and buy something like this (this is the one I use):

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NLQAHS/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

or go to an autoparts store and have them hook up their scan tool and pull the code.

There's really no point in guessing, as it could be anything.

BAFX Products 34t5 Bluetooth OBDII Scan Tool for Android Devices www.amazon.com/dp/B005NLQAHS/

I use this one. With Torque for Android I can set it up to log any of these parameters from the ECU.

I'll use windshield caulking https://www.amazon.com/3M-08693-Urethane-Windshield-Cartridge/dp/B000RW1XCK
https://www.amazon.com/3M-08609-Window-Weld-Urethane-Cartridge/dp/B000FW61EW

There are multiple sizes available on Amazon, here's one example . Just stick on the oil pan, and maybe one under your battery.

You needed one of these!

These might work for you. They basically have threads which cut into the outside of the nut to remove it.

If they don't work, you can always drill out the stud. It sucks, and takes forever, but it works without damaging your wheel.

I suggest a block heater like this.

Kat's 24150 150 Watt 4"x 5" Universal Hot Pad Heater https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000I8TQD6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_VPSyCb9VMC6PP

Here's the one I got: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005NLQAHS/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

And here's the application I used called Torque for android. This is me testing it out on my tablet: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kb60-jSBGuM

It also does other things like I said checking for error codes, resetting check engine light, data logging, graphing, etc.

The check engine light does work.

I used One of these to get the fault codes. Still could be a slowly dying sensor though. Anyway to be sure other than just replace it?

Look easily repairable.

Go to AutoZOne / ORiley or whateve rbox store auto store you have nearby and but a plug kit.

https://smile.amazon.com/Slime-1034-T-Handle-Tire-Plug/dp/B000ET525K

Dig out whatever it is, ream the hole with tool in kit, insert plug with other tool, cut off excess plug material.

This stuff expanded the rubber anti rattle sleeves on my pins and caused it to seize. Do not use. Spend the extra money and use silicone.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000HBNV6W/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1473264236&sr=8-2&pi=SY200_QL40&keywords=permatex+brake+grease&dpPl=1&dpID=51EWEeZ9GHL&ref=plSrch

My symptoms were very similar, they seem to quit working intermittently, which is annoying because sometimes you'll get a random misfire code rather than misfire on cylinder #x. As for the scantool, these are cheap and handy.

He's saying some people can be dishonest when they sell vehicles.

Just because there are the only two codes posted in the ad doesn't mean those are the only codes the trucks computer is posting. Without an ODB-II reader you can't verify that, you have to take the sellers word for it. If you own/buy/rent one you can verify for yourself.

It's cheap insurance to bring one with you and verify. You can buy one that hooks up to your phone for about 20$ from amazon and use an application like Torque on your phone to read the information directly to your phone. You can also buy one that doesn't hook up to your phone for about the same price.

Some automotive stores will even let you rent one with a deposit.

It's worth getting your own. I have an Autel similar to this one. I've only used it once and it retrieved the code no problem.

There are a ton of bluetooth obd2 adapters... but many are partially defective. This one works.

https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-34t5-Bluetooth-Android/dp/B005NLQAHS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1466739800&sr=8-1&keywords=bafx+obd2

You are always going to need more stuff. Go pick out a radio at http://www.crutchfield.com/ and see what they tell you needs to go with it. You can probably find similar parts on amazon too.

FM transmitter is really hard to recommend. You can try an FM modulator though. http://www.amazon.com/iSimple-IS31-Antenna-Modulator-Aftermarket/dp/B002U5XPBE/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1411171865&sr=1-1&keywords=fm+modulator Basically the same thing, except it pipes the FM signal directly inline to the antenna, instead of going over the air. Not sure what your OEM antenna connection is, this may also require additional parts.

I just checked crutchfield. You need the standard wiring harness, antenna adapter and trim ring. If you want to cut your factory harness (not recommended) you can get away with out the harness, but always a pain.

Connect it up with solder or waterproof crimp caps.

https://www.amazon.com/UVIEW-560000-Combustion-Leak-Tester/dp/B000NPDL76

That won't tell you which gasket is leaking, but it will tell you if either of them are. If there is exhaust gas in your coolant system, then you're replacing something. You'll get it broken down to replace the LIM gasket and you'll be able to tell if that's the issue or not once you get the LIM off and inspect it. If it's ok, then you'll just keep going and pull the head. On a 3800 engine, it's gonna be the LIM gasket 99% of the time.

https://www.amazon.com/BAFX-Products-34t5-Bluetooth-Android/dp/B005NLQAHS Buy something similar to this, this is one of the more expensive models, others can be found all over much cheaper. If you have an android or Apple phone then you can connect your car to your phone to get readouts on all kinds of stuff that your car's computer is doing. It seriously is the single most useful diagnostic tool you can have, it might take some trial and error to figure out how to work it if you never have before, but it's pretty straightforward for the most part. It's really all about the app you get. As for a fire risk, it depends on what the problem actually is. If you see smoke, turn it off!

That's a broken vacuum fitting. The vacuum line diagram for that motor shows the Evap. Canister Purge Valve in that location, and the pictures match.

Since the part that's broken is the fitting on the solenoid, you'll have to replace it. It looks like there's just one screw holding it on; that should be an easy fix.

[EDIT] I just saw that you broke off both of the lines going into that part. Your local auto parts store will have the right diameter line to replace what you need to there. Just bring it in with you and they'll be able to match it.

A quick short term solution would be to cap off the broken vacuum lines. Your fuel economy will suffer, but you'll regain engine performance.

Since you mentioned that it happens when you get off the interstate, this makes me think it's fan related since you obviously have more airflow through the radiator on the freeway....But you confirmed that the fans are operating correct.

In your previous post, you said you had the coolant tested and the head gasket tested. I assume the coolant system was pressure tested but how exactly was the head gasket tested to determine it's ok?

I've had head gaskets fail where the coolant system held pressure just fine but it was rather the cylinder combustion pressure pushing combustion gasses into the coolant system. This introduces air into the coolant system causing the overheating. A combustion leak tester like this is what I've used.

If the rotor is rubbing against the caliper bracket it has a distinct metal on metal sound, however if the hub is walking out what you might be hearing is the inside of the tire rubbing against the rear shock absorber casing. Maybe it is more noticeable when wet? Look at the shocks absorber for rub marks and also look over the tire itself for rub marks. (If you see wear on the inside part of the tire tread, that is a clue that your hub is walking out and needs to be replaced).

The sound could also just be the bearings themselves being bad and grinding down, but not sure why moisture would affect it.

But since the noise goes away after touching the brake pedal, it is most likely a caliper not sliding correctly. This often happens after pads are replaced and people use the wrong lubricant on the caliper pins and/or the pads. The pads need a synthetic grease, the caliper pins need a silicon paste.

Some of the things like the CEL/VSC are just from disconnecting the battery.

In general I would look VERY closely at the battery and alternator whether the BATT light was on or not. If possible get a cigarette-lighter voltage monitor. In some cases an intermittent battery short or bad voltage regulator in the alternator can cause gremlins like this.

https://www.amazon.com/INNOVA-3721-Battery-Charging-Monitor/dp/B000EVWDU0

I assume when it 'doesn't start' it's cranking but not starting?

First thing to try is feed some starter fluid through the brake booster line. If it runs briefly on starter fluid, then you have spark but potentially no injector pulse or fuel pressure.

If it does run on starter fluid, then I would monitor for injector pulse with a noid light. If no injector pulse, then crank sensor would be the first stop.

If the tach stays pinned at zero when cranking, that's a sign you have no crank signal.

likely a nail or screw in the tire. Driving can shear the head off and make it hard to see. A bead leak or valve leak tends to be annoying but a lot slower loss (like 20psi a week). Bring it to a tire shop or if you want to fix yourself you'll need to jack it up and remove the wheel, use a pliers to pull out the offending object, and as long as it's not near the edge of the tread you can plug it with this. It takes a bit of muscle to do.

I was going to suggest this below my last comment but saw your response here.
A head gasket could also leak between the cylinder and the coolant passages creating excessive pressure in the cooling system and overheating. There are kits available for testing the presence of combustion gases in the cooling system like these: UVIEW 560000 Combustion Leak Tester https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B000NPDL76/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Yr.DxbRWDM302
Note that the head gasket might not be leaking both ways(cylinders > coolant, coolant > cylinders). If coolant was leaking into the cylinders, you would see white clouds of smoke from your exhaust, not water. I would assume if you saw water it would be a bad enough leak to hydro lock your engine.

Edit: Sorry for bad formatting...still learning to Reddit.