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So I'm gonna be that guy and tell you the answer you don't want to hear which is that you're not likely to be able to achieve what you're trying to do in the location you want without some major drawbacks.

Your seeds aren't thriving because they're not getting enough light. You can tell because your sprouts are so leggy (i.e. tall and thin with few/no leaves). When plants first sprout, they come pre-packaged with leaves that are part of the seed that expand as the plant absorbs water and are what collect the initial light energy which the seedling will then use to construct its own true leaves. If the starter leaves are not receiving enough energy, the plant will delay growing new leaves and instead try to grow taller so that those leaves get better light exposure. That's what causes leggy plants, which bring a host of annoying problems, hence why its usually easier to start fresh and make sure they get light from the get-go. Seeds which are getting enough light will produce very little in terms of stem height but will instead use that energy to start producing more leaves right away. Here's a shot of some lettuce (on the right) with zero legginess and bell pepper seedlings sprouted with minimal legginess. Note that the bell pepper seedlings on the left could probably use yet more light.

Artificial lights put out nowhere near as much as natural sunlight unless you get into the really high caliber stuff. To give you an idea on artificial lighting requirements, here's what's lighting part of my herb garden. That fixture has four 24 watt fluorescent bulbs, coupled with angled reflectors above them to maximize the amount of light hitting the plant. If you're interested, here is that light fixture on Amazon. I recommend this regularly to anyone trying to grow using artificial light. Lux output (a measurement of the amount of light per sq ft) from that is ~15,000 lux at an appropriate distance from the plant, which is about what these herbs need to grow. A single 15 watt bulb like yours probably gets into the 3,000 - 5,000 lux range. You also seem to have a cover over the light, which probably reduces the output as well. Another thing to note is you want your light as close as possible to your plants. They shouldn't be touching it, but they should be (for flourescents at least) maybe a few inches from it. Light saturation decreases rapidly with distance, so the further they are, the less oomph they're getting from it. Your lower hanging plants are getting less light for sure.

Keep in mind that different types of plants have different lighting requirements. Leafy plants light herbs and lettuces can sustain themselves off of something like I showed just fine. However anything that produces a fruit or vegetable will need even more light. Like three or four times as much light as the fixture I showed earlier.

Back in the day most people used something like this, a high pressure sodium light, for their indoor fruits/veggies. This one puts out about 45,000 lux. Think like football stadium lights. These things get painfully bright and also get very hot, plus they require a large ballast (power source) to run. You want your plants at least 2 ft from these otherwise they'll burn. Regardless, it's definitely not something you'd want under your sink, since you wouldn't be able to be in the same room when it was on or else you'd be blinded.

The more recent alternative in artificial light is LED lights. These things put out way less lux, but the light they do put out is concentrated on very specific wavelengths which are ideal for plants. I'm using this one to grow tomatoes and bell peppers, and one light is about enough for one, maybe two plants. They don't get hot at all, but their light output is still uncomfortably bright and the color is just dreadful. Imagine a pink so searing that it makes your head hurt. Here's a picture of some bell peppers, taken from the relative shade under the canopy. Definitely not something you want in your kitchen for the same reason as the HPS: you wouldn't want to be in the room when it's turned on. I grow the bell peppers in a light-opaque grow tent and the tomatoes in a closet I converted for that purpose.

My recommendation: forget about the veggies for now. You're not going to get them to grow without a light source which will be impractical under the sink. Stick with herbs, which work just fine under fluorescent light. Up your light output by getting a higher output light fixture. Rearrange how they hang so that all four of your planters are much closer to the light. And start from scratch once you've done so. You might potential save that batch if you got a new light right away, but they'll have gotten a leggy start, so they'll always be slightly deformed.

If I suspect something, I employ the help of my trusty magnifying glass! Yeah, my friends laugh at me. Anyway, I just comb through the entire plant and the top of the potting media for anything that looks suspicious, some small dot moving around is suspect, for instance, or white powdery stuff, or some bumps on the plant, etc.

If those flying insects are fungus gnats, that means you're keeping some plant's soil wet enough for their larvae to hatch and multiply. Since they lay eggs at the top layer, it might be because you're misting the plant and the top remains moist? For fungus gnats, if they are indeed fungus gnats, then mosquito dunks on top of the soil works very well. It only works when it's wet. Diatomaceous earth food grade on top of the soil also works great but it only works when it's dry. So when I had fungus gnat problem with peace lilies, I covered the top of the soil with mosquito dunks and watered them. After a few days when the top of the soil is dry, I dusted diatomaceous earth on the soil. After 3 weeks of this, I stopped seeing them.

I do keep a systemic at hand just in case, but yet to use it since I haven't had an infestation yet, knock on wood. I'm pretty paranoid about pests, so I tended to find just one or few of them on one plant a few times, and I dealt with them with alcohol and/or diatomaceous earth (dusted the crap out of the plant). Now I use neem oil concoction (I just follow the instruction on the bottle) and drench the whole plant and the top of the potting media when I get a new plant for prevention.

If you have these hanging in the open they will annoy you with it's blue/purple colors and are not good for your eyes. Try getting full spectrum LED.

Look up Quantum boards from horticulture lighting group or Atreum Boards, Amazon may not have them. They are generally more efficient and give off nice white light which will not annoy you and even brighten up the room!

A Quantum Board 65 Kit (65Watt real draw) is about 100$ and available on Amazon and should be enough for a first light but probably underpowered for 4x4 but for half shaded plants this will work fine. Most use them to grow weed which likes a lot of light. Veg/bloom switches are mostly for weed, yes.

But sure, the QB are a bit bare and not that pretty yet really lightweight aesthetically...so who knows.

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The Maxsisun 300W has about 130W real draw (the 300W is misleading since it's just an euivalent to HPS lights. So it draws 130W which is equivalent to a 300W HPS light) but is probably less efficient than the QB.

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I'm growing Chilis with a DIY Fixture with full white LED comparable to the QB ones. I started out with a Viparspectra 300W (basically same as the Maxisun) so i know em both. Gonna take the Viparspectra apart soon to exchange the LED to full white ones. Will never touch the blue/purple lights again :D

I would stay way from any of the cheap Chinese LED lights like Roleadro, Mars Hydro and similar. The light that I would recommend for your setup would be the HLG-65 from Horticulture Lighting Group. This light uses top bin Samsung S6 diodes which are extremely efficient. They put out a ton of light and use very little power. This light also generates very little heat and doesn't require a heatsink or fans. It produces white light at 4000k which is a little warmer then sun light. I recently bought two of these boards and they have fantastic for vegetative growth.

A little late to the party, but I just got these. Waiting on them to come in the mail but they seem to be very promising.

I also just heard about using High pressure sodium Lamps, a bit over the top for me, but I thought I'd pass on that as well.

Good luck!

My apartment has pretty terrible lighting and with fall/winter coming on strong in the Boston area, I decided to put together a little home gardening station to help with lighting and movement of the plants for watering. I went into this with the goal of having my setup accommodate most of my small collection of plants and to allow for easy movement without having to mess with the grow lights. In the end, I decided on a cart-based design composed of the following items:

Bror Utility Cart 33 ½” X 21 ⅝” X 34 ⅝” ($99)

https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/bror-utility-cart-black-pine-plywood-60333850/

Bror Add-on Shelf 21 ⅝” X 6 ¼” X 5 ½” ($10)

https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/bror-add-on-shelf-black-20402001/

Koppla 3 Outlet Power Strip 19 ¾” ($4.99 for two pack)

https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/koppla-3-outlet-power-strip-grounded-white-00086428/

2x Hemma Cord Set, Black 15’ 5” ($7.00 each)

https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/hemma-cord-set-white-10175810/

(IKEA site only has white showing up now, black was available in-store)

2x Luftmassa Lamp Shade 10” ($17.99 each)

https://www.ikea.com/us/en/p/luftmassa-lamp-shade-rounded-70462648/

Kasa Smart WiFi Plug Mini HS105 ($21.75)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01K1JVZOE/

Relassy 20 Watt Dual Head, Gooseneck, Full Spectrum Grow Lamp ($27.39)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07C68N7PC/

2x GE 9 Watt BR30 Balanced Full Spectrum Bulbs ($9.98 each)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NN6SVG6/

4x 3M Command Utility Hooks 3 lbs ($8.99 for nine)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0751RPD3V/

2x Velcro Thin Ties 8” X ½” ($9.70 for 100)

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001E1Y5O6/

Total Cost (pre-tax): $234.76

yes! i use this:

https://www.amazon.com/Summit-116-12-Quick-Mosquito-8-Ounce/dp/B0001LE1VC/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=mosquito+bits&qid=1556469075&s=gateway&sr=8-4

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you can let them float in a little bowl of water near your plants to attract and kill them but i don't like the look of that so i just pour some into my watering can and allow them to sit on the top of the wet soil in my plants. i did it twice recently (during my routine watering) and now i am gnat free again! and thank you so much!! :)

At 8ft high, the light would do very little to help the plants achieve growth. Try to get a smaller lamp, preferably with a scissor arm and buy one of these. I have a 2' bird of paradise in my bedroom that has eastern facing windows and use that to supplement it later in the day when there isn't enough natural sunlight. Hope this helps.

What plants are you growing? What are their light needs?

I use grow bulbs like this:
grow bulb on amazon

For my tropical flowering plants, like hibiscus and also for palms. Not all tropicals need high light however, some burn very easily because they are found under the canopy- like some ferns.

I run the grow lights between 10-16 hours a day, depending on the season and how the plant reacts.

Mint, rosemary, and basil are standard easy herbs.

For a dead-simple setup, you can buy 2 of these and two of these and clamp/hang them about 1 ft above the tops of your herbs. Then put a couple pots on/under a wire shelf like this.

I like these kinds of installations because there's really no "building" and they can be moved around easily. Metal wire shelves are also very versatile so you can reconfigure/repurpose them as needed.

/u/Dodifer this. Buy some Mosquito Dunk Bits, take about 1/8 of a teaspoon and stir it into 1/2 cup of water really well, spread this on the surface of the surface of the soil of any plants you have indoors near the gnat problem. You can spray it on or brush it on, doesn't really matter as long as you get semi-even surface coverage. Reapply 10 days later if you still need to.

The dunk bits are just dried corn bits coated in BTI, a bacteria that goes after gnat and mosquito larva. There's a lot of safety warnings on the bottle but from the articles I've read from an WHO article BTI should be safe to use in drinking water, so it should be safe to use on indoor plants and vegetables.

OH BOY, do I have the post for you!
I wrote a comment a while back about my experience with all types of grow lights, and maybe it'll help you!

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But to summarize, if you don't want to feel like you are living in a Disco, these and these are my favorites.

Easy answer: Purchase a daylight 42 watt CFL bulb for bigger/more plants or a 23 watt CFL if you're growing smaller/less plants. The standard bulb you have wastes a lot of energy (money) on creating heat.

Complex answer: If you are trying to grow plants that flower, you need both red and blue light. Red for the flowers to grow and blue for the vegetation/leaves. You'll want to purchase an LED grow light bulb that emits both forms of light. These are the most energy efficient bulbs converting nearly everything into useable light for the plant. The only downside is they emit an ugly purple color and it can be unsightly in the home when it's on.

Any thoughts on the HLG lights? Many said they are the best on the market right now, wondering if anyone has any experience with them and how they compare? https://www.amazon.com/Quantum-Board-Grow-Bloom-4000K/dp/B076QDKVDZ and https://www.amazon.com/Quantum-Board-Grow-Bloom-3000K/dp/B07C59J8L2 and if you can only go with one color for a mix of plants in a area, is 3000k or 4000k better for everyone and their different stages?

I have the above bulb but my Thai Constellation seems to respond better to the Sanis, I am starting to see new growth after switching to it. https://www.amazon.com/SANSI-Spectrum-Hydroponic-Greenhouse-Houseplants/dp/B07BRKT56T/ref=pd_nav_hcs_rp_1/144-0843245-2944213?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07BRKT56T&pd_rd_r=5fce0d48-7daf-40c0-ab93-eadf4cb347e1&pd_rd_w=TherE&pd_rd_wg=wU4ur&pf_rd_p=daa7e66b-818b-4621-80ba-2a91681cf840&pf_rd_r=M7ZA62YV2A52J9Z63P3Q&psc=1&refRID=M7ZA62YV2A52J9Z63P3Q

I got one of these for my herbs and succulents. It's a 40 watt CFL bulb that outputs the equivalent of 200 watts! It's been about 2 weeks and my plants seem pretty happy.

This is what I have up top:


http://www.amazon.com/Light-4lamps-DL824-Fluorescent-Hydroponic/dp/B009GU4RMC/ref=sr_1_6?ie=UTF8&qid=1420668096&sr=8-6&keywords=t5+grow+light



Its pretty good, the single light on the bottom is a leftover from a Dirt genius kit I got off ebay for like $30, which you can probably get 2 for that price.


Gotta do your searching

Looks like fungus gnats to me too. I use this and it works great

These can take half shade to full sun and you'll likely get stronger and more compact growth and better fruiting at closer to full sun. You're nowhere near that. This might work https://www.amazon.com/Light-4lamps-DL824-Fluorescent-Hydroponic/dp/B009GU4RMC/ref=sr_1_26?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1466223033&sr=1-26&keywords=grow+light but this https://www.amazon.com/VIPARSPECTRA-Reflector--Spectrum-Indoor-Plants/dp/B015FLSOCE/ref=sr_1_16?s=lawn-garden&ie=UTF8&qid=1466223033&sr=1-16&keywords=grow+lightwould really do it if its in your budget. You could also go the High pressure sodium light route. But in general, start thinking brighter. Also be aware of the inverse square law. Light intensity drops off at the inverse square of the distance so for example at 3 feet you have 1/9 the light intensity you have at the source. So basically I would put whatever light as close to the plant as possible without causing heat stress or burning the leaves.

I see 1 or 2 flies once in couple of days. I got this last week from Amazon - link. Few people have had luck with this so thought of giving it a shot.

I have a 3-shelf and a 4-shelf(pictured) and love them both. Waiting to purchase some for our north side windows. I've also purchased them for gifts and there a big hit!

If you're serious about LED lighting consider one of these - one of the highest rated grow LED brands. Great warranty, solid spectrum and a full product line of different wattage and sizing.

I'm using this very model for my project

You can still grow those, but you'd have to buy a couple LED grow lights (here's the one I use). That's how I grow my peppers indoors year-round :]

I installed a shelf i got off amazon as you see in the picture

Shelf:
AmazonBasics 4-Shelf Shelving... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0727YYPR2?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Light:

FECiDA 2-Pack COB LED Plant Grow... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07TL9VFD4?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

Pulleys:
VIPARSPECTRA 2 Pair of 1/8 inch... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B010PYWCX8?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

I have 2 lights but it looks like i only need to use 1 right?

Also should i leave the plants in their bins?

Any recommendations for an large enclosed greenhouse cover i can use instead of inidividual bins?

Is the light too close to the plants?

I found mine on Amazon. So happy with it!

Oh yeah I forgot to mention one thing, you might want to grab a set of these so you can raise & lower them https://www.amazon.com/VIPARSPECTRA-Adjustable-Fixtures-Gardening-Capacity/dp/B010PYWCX8

The lights come with wire hanger + a carabiner but it's a fixed length. You could also just use a cheap chain and manually raise/lower lights by moving the carabiner but those pulley ones are really nice.

Best bang for your buck: http://www.amazon.com/Agrobrite-4-Tube-Fixture-Included-Fluorescent/dp/B002JQBQZQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1459460393&sr=8-1&keywords=t5+grow+light

They are fungus gnats. Bonide Products 951 Houseplant Systemic Insect Control Granules worked like a charm for me.

I just picked up this guy. I have my succulents on my top shelf, and my seedlings 2 shelves down. So far I've seen really good results (which makes sense given how damn bright it is)

It depends on the plants, but that light wouldn't be much help to most garden/outdoor plants. Even something like this would need to be right next to the leaves to give them enough light, and left on for at least 12-16 hours.

If it's an indoor plant though, they generally don't need as much light and will most likely be fine even with that bulb you linked.

I have this one and have found it to be completely sufficient for keeping my plants happy in the winter! It has a clip and you can turn one or both lights on.

I picked up an indoor greenhouse for $20 at Ocean State Job Lots. I got a couple of these lights for the top and some small fluorescent strips for the bottom shelves. I know the light is helping, but I think the humidity is helping even more.

I just got this baby. Works perfect inside me little 2x3x3 seedling tent.

Thanks! This is the light I’m using.


GE Lighting 93101230 9-Watt BR30 LED Grow Light Bulb for Indoor Plants, Balanced Full Spectrum https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07NN6SVG6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_Yi2LDb7YVX9YM

I’ve only had my office garden for about 3 weeks (I have a bunch at home but this is my first work garden). So these plants are all straight from the grower.

I've had this for 2 years and it's still going strong

The Taotronics LED bulbs from Amazon work well for me. https://smile.amazon.com/TaoTronics-light-Hydropoics-Greenhouse-Organic/dp/B00GNWK2XO/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1485370522&sr=8-4&keywords=taotronics+led+bulb This one works for me for about a square foot of plants, placed about 1-1.5 feet above the pots.

Moss/lichen come in a lot of varieties, and most are adapted to being completely dormant between rainfalls, or grow near rivers and other sources of constant high humidity. What kind are you trying to grow?

How big is your area? How many plants do you have? I grow Thyme, Rosemary and Oregano on a 2'x2'x3' tent with a 300 watt LED like this one https://www.amazon.com/VIPARSPECTRA-Reflector-Spectrum-Indoor-Plants/dp/B01B4GQ6MO/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1520754703&sr=8-4&keywords=300+watt+LED They are in 6" pots and take up about half of the space. I use the other half for starting seedlings.

Hm, if I'm watering too much as is do you recommend I wait and let the soil dry out before watering with a "citrus fertilizer"? Or should I get the fertlizer and water it right away to balance out the All Purpose Plant food?

something like this

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00GNWK2XO/ref=ya_aw_od_pi?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I used that one it worked very well on my broccoli seedlings

Wouldn't I need a ballast too? Seem's considerable more expensive. Moreover, wattage usage is important too because Hydro rates in Ontario are bananas.

EDIT: What about this instead?

i have this one: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B002JQBQZQ/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1


decent unit. bonsais reacted well to it. runs cool, but also needs to be closer to the plants than your HPS or MH varieties.

Suggestion, get something like this and mount directly to the under side of the shelf, without the cables, just screw it in.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B075JFPLY1/ref=psdcmw_14252941_t1_B07CNRSGJC

Oh and you can also order not only through the Hirts website but they (and other sellers) sell through Amazon too. Here's a link to where I ordered my monstera from: https://www.amazon.com/Split-Leaf-Philodendron-Pot-Pineapple/dp/B00MUY4TCE

I'm wondering if my Tulsi Basil plant is too close to the light. Some of the leaves are getting dried and crumpled and brown looking. I'm not sure why, but thinking it's the ought. It is a this 45w LED grow light and the top of the plant is about 10 or 12 inches away from the light. Can anyone identify if the leaves are getting light burned?

As I said, it depends on your budget. Both for the fixture and for the running cost. Some people don't care about running cost because they get their electricity for free (solar). So LED makes more sense for them. Or perhaps they are concerned about heat buildup. Or they need a very specific spectrum of light.

A lot of people on Amazon like this one: https://www.amazon.com/TaoTronics-Miracle-Hydropoics-Greenhouse-Organic/dp/B00GNWK2XO/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1465922549&sr=8-4&keywords=lumigrow

But you'd need quite a few of them to cover an area for 40 plants for 2 months. And I doubt they last more than a couple seasons for you. But I could be wrong. There's a lot of trash fixtures coming out of China right now, so I typically stay away from the more "retail grade" units and stick with the commercial models.

order online if you can, they last forever:

https://www.amazon.com/Summit-Responsible-Solutions-Mosquito-Bits/dp/B0001AUF8G

systemic bug control

https://www.amazon.com/Osunby-Growing-Indoor-Plants-Hydroponic/dp/B075JFPLY1?keywords=grow+lights&qid=1537293528&sr=8-4&ref=mp_s_a_1_4

Amazon!

I've used neem oil but only as a preventative. Bugs didn't get on my plants after I sprayed them, but they didn't have bugs before that either. The other "spray" that I've heard of people using is Azamax. It claims to be natural and "works on aphids, thrips, scales, fungus gnats, spider mites, and whiteflies", so even with the bugs not fully identified it looks like Azamax would kill them. If you do diatomaceous earth on the plants to kill them, use one of these to make application easier and more effective.

We treated our indoor and outdoor plants with Azamax to fight spider mites and it worked well.

Summit Responsible Solutions Mosquito Bits - Quick Kill, 30 Ounce https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0001AUF8G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_bmaNDb4774TAB

Use as directed. I mixed it with my top soil every two weeks in each container. Zero fungus gnats in 4 to 6 weeks.

What do they look like? Are they fungus gnats? If they are the quickest and easiest way to get rid of them is a product called Mosquito Bits.

Summit Responsible Solutions Mosquito Bits - Quick Kill, 30 Ounce https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0001AUF8G/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_9PADCbFBDBAG6

This may work on other pests too, but unsure.

No, I use this: http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B00FSI2J30/ref=mp_s_a_1_25?qid=1410890027&sr=8-25&pi=SL75

Don’t mind at all! I’ll just post the whole setup below:

• Using standard potting soil from one of the local big box stores with a little peat moss spread in.
  
  Using these T5s: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00AKKUBDQ?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
  
  Using these LEDs: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074Y32PFZ?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
  
  Using this outlet timer for 12 hours on/off: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00MVF16JG?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf
  
  Using these for gnat control (it was pretty bad at the beginning): https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00O2KYORO?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

I was the same way. I had no idea which to get, so I bought the blue/red light bars and they didn’t do anything for my plants. I ended up going with a full spectrum LED. My plants are thriving now.


SANSI 24W LED Plant Light Bulb... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07BRKT56T?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

SANSI 15W LED Grow Light Bulb,... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07KXBY2YH?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

They’re granules that kill mosquito larvae in ponds and standing water but also kill fungus Gnats. Here’s a link to amazon but you can find it in Lowes or Home Depot if you’re in the US.

The insecticides (this one) and mild sprays that others are suggesting sometimes work. However, there are some other approaches, if they don't work for you:

• Fungus gnats dry out and die easily. If the plants are very hardy to a period of minimal watering, refraining from adding water until the soil is dry can kill most of them. This is a reliable method that always works, but it's not practical for all plants. It sounds like some of yours probably could, though, but I'm no expert.
  
• The bacteria species Bacillus thuringienis produces a substance that kills the larvae of fungus gnats. You can buy it on amazon and add it to the soil. It does not affect the adults, but they are short lived, so if you consistently kill the larvae you will eliminate the infestation relatively quickly. This is the single most reliable treatment, when done right. It combines well with the other treatments, both the ones I list and the ones others have mentioned, too. (Note: Don't let the bottle get too hot. Since they're bacteria, you can kill them, and then the product doesn't work.)
  
• Sticky yellow traps will kill a lot of the adults. This won't fix a big infestation, but it can control mild ones or act preventatively. It works great in combination with the bacteria treatment, turning it into a two-pronged attack on the larvae+adults. I find it works best to place them such that they touch the rim of the pot, where the gnats seem to like to walk, but you have to play with the positioning.