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I've made some slight modifications to this, mostly to make it easier to follow. I've also included steps that should be quite obvious to someone who's done any homebrewing before, but I wish someone had told me when I first started.

I'd link to the original, for the sake of attribution, but the user who posted this deleted their account not long after I wrote everything down.

This will produce a sweet fruit-mead (or melomel). WARNING this will be far more alcoholic than it tastes, and should not be consumed if you've recently taken antibiotics, or suffered gastric distress, as the yeast culture will still be alive, and will happily colonize your intestines if your gut microbiome is too fucked up.

Equipment: Most of this stuff will be a good deal cheaper at your local homebrew store, but I've included amazon links (also to the yeast).

At least 2 (3 is better, for reasons we'll get to) 1-gallon jugs (I don't recommend scaling this up), glass preferred. Add an extra jug for each additional batch. This one includes a drilled stopper and airlock

Drilled stoppers (or carboy bungs) and airlocks, non-drilled rubber stoppers.

An autosiphon and food-safe tubing.

Food-safe sanitizing solution (I recommend StarSan).

An electric kettle with temperature selector is useful, but not needed.

If you want to bottle it rather than just keeping a jug in your fridge:

Empty beer or wine bottles (just save your empties), capping or corking equipment, caps or corks, and a bottling wand.

Ingredients:

2.5 lbs (1130g) honey, clover recommended.

A cup (approximately 250ml) or so of fruit (I recommend blackberries, and I strongly recommend against cherries, other recipes have worked for me, but this yields a very medical flavor with cherries).

1 packet Lalvin EC-1118 yeast (a champagne yeast notable for its hardiness, its ability to out-compete other microorganisms, and its high alcohol tolerance).

Optional: potassium sorbate (to reduce yeast activity when our ferment is done), pectic enzyme (aka pectinase - for aesthetic purposes). Both are also available in bulk.

Process:

Day 1:

Mix sanitizing solution with clean water at specified proportions in one of your jugs, filling the jug most of the way. Stopper it, shake it. Remove stopper, set it down wet-side-up (to keep it sterile), pour the fluid to another jug. There will be foam left behind, this is fine, don't bother to rinse it or anything. At low concentrations this stuff is totally fine to drink, and won't ruin your fermentation or flavor.

Add honey to jug, all of it.

If you have a kettle, and your jug is glass, heat water to around 160F (71 Celsius), pour a volume into your jug roughly equal to the amount of honey present. Fix sterile stopper to jug. Shake until honey and water are thoroughly combined. The heat will make it FAR easier to dissolve the honey. Set aside for an hour or so while it cools. Add clean water 'til mostly full, leaving some room for fruit and headspace.

If you're missing a kettle, or using a plastic jug, this is gonna be a little harder. Fill most of the way with clean water (I recommend using a filter) leaving some room for fruit and headspace. Fix sterile stopper, shake 'til honey and water are thoroughly combined. This will take a while, and you will need to shake VERY vigorously.

At this point, you should have a jug mostly-full of combined honey and water. To this, add fruit (inspecting thoroughly for mold, don't want to add that). Then dump in a single packet of the Lalvin EC-1118 yeast, don't bother rehydrating it first or anything, it'll be fine going straight in. Add pectic enzyme if you have it (this does nothing to the flavor, it just makes the end product less cloudy). Stopper it up, shake it again. This jug now contains your "must" (pre-ferment mead).

Pour some sterilizing fluid in a bowl, put a carboy bung/drilled stopper in the bowl, with an airlock. Ensure full immersion. Let sit for a minute. Replace stopper with your bung/drilled stopper, affix airlock. Fill airlock with clean water, sanitizing fluid, or vodka. Rinse the stopper, fix it to your jug of sanitizing fluid.

Place must-jug in a dark place, I recommend a cabinet or closet.

Days 2-7:

Retrieve jug, give it a little jostle. Nothing so vigorous as to get your mead into the airlock, but enough to upset it. This is to release CO2 buildup, and to keep any part of the fruit from drying out. The foaming from the CO2 release may be very vigorous. Do this over a towel for your first batch. If the foam gets into your airlock, clean your airlock and reaffix it. Perform this jostling procedure at least once per day, more is better.

Day 8:

Final jostling, I recommend doing this in the morning.

Day 9:

let it sit, we want the sediment to settle.

Day 10: Time to get it off the sediment

Shake sterilizing fluid jug. Affix tubing to siphon. Put the siphon in the sterilizing fluid, shake the jug a little just to get the whole siphon wet. Siphon fluid into either a third container or a large bowl. This is all to sterilize both the inside and outside of your siphoning system.

Remove siphon from jug. Give it a couple pumps to empty it of any remaining fluid. Place siphon in your mead jug, leaving the end of the tubing in sterilizing fluid while you do this.

Take the jug that you just siphoned the sterilizing fluid from. Dump what fluid remains in it. Place the end of the tubing in this jug, then siphon the mead into it. Make no attempt to get the last bit of mead into your fresh container, it's mostly dead yeast and decomposing fruit.

Add potassium sorbate if you have it, stopper the jug, place it in your fridge.

Clean the jug you started in. Clean your siphon and tubing.

Day 11:

Let it sit

Day 12 or later: time to transfer again, or bottle it.

If you no longer have a jug full of sterilizing fluid, make one.

Repeat the earlier steps to sterilize the siphoning system, with a bottling wand attached to the end of the tubing if you want to bottle.

Sterilize your bottles or a clean jug, either with fluid or heat.

Siphon mead either into your bottles or jug. Stopper/cap/cork when done.

Put your jug/bottles in the fridge.

The yeast culture is still alive, and will continue to ferment. The fridge, and optional potassium sorbate, will merely slow this down. I recommend drinking any bottles within two months, to avoid a risk of bursting bottles. The mead should already be tasty at this point, but usually tastes much better after a couple more weeks.

EDIT: Fixed the formatting up a bit.

It's called: "Structures, or why things don't fall down" by J E Gordon

It's pretty good. Definitely worth checking out if you're into this kind of thing.

Dude, I own this book. A catapult is nothing more than a ballistic device that is able to launch projectiles a long distance without the use of explosives. Hence why a trebuchet is a type of catapult. Just look at the title: "The Art of the Catapult: Build Greek Ballistae, Roman Onagers, English Trebuchets, and More Ancient Artillery"

So when people say "a trebuchet is better than a catapult" you're effectively saying "a catapult is better than a catapult," which... is odd.

Here's the link https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07B66C9FJ

Was definitely drunk last night when I was browsing Amazon. Woke up to a pleasant surprise.

Not sure about the wording of this question but, assuming the meter sticks are pine Wood with a weight of 530 kg/meter^3. We will also assume the size is one meter by 1"(2.54cm) by 1/4"(0.635cm). That gives us 161.29cm^3 per meter stick. Multipling that by 300 gets you 48387cm^3 or 0.048387m^3. So if one meter of pine is 530kg than 4.8387% of that is 25.6361kg.

Now for the distance, assuming you are using 90 1 kg weights and placing them on the longest side the length  is 4.9"( 12.446cm) per kg. 12.446cm times 90 equals 1,120.14cm or 11.2014 meters.

So yes a trebutchet can launch 300 meters (25.6361kg) over 90kg (11.2014m).

https://www.amazon.com/Oakland-Ballistics-Wooden-Trebuchet-Kit/dp/B004080576

30ft ;)

The current definition only has one citation: The art of the catapult: build Greek ballista, Roman onagers, English trebuchets, and more ancient artillery by William Gurstelle (2004). If you find a different definition from another reliable source, I would strongly suggest that you go on the article's talk page and start a new discussion. Consensus can change, especially when backed by good references.

I had a quick look at various online dictionaries and found many different definitions, some of which are mentioning tension/torsion, others only talking about throwing stuff. The book cited also doesn't appear to be terribly authoritative to me, so I don't think it would require extraordinary efforts to change the definition.

You can of course be bold and edit the Catapult article directly, change the definition and include your (reliable) references. However, you'll need an account that is at least 4 days old and has more than 10 edits. Both the catapult and trebuchet articles are currently semi-protected because of frequent vandalism.

I would however recommend against this kind of unilateral change since this definition has been in use in the article for about 10 years. It doesn't mean that it is correct, but you will face resistance.

You should never hesitate to use an article's talk page to ask questions or propose changes, as long as you remember that they are not forums and should only be used to discuss the article's content.

Yo u/Trebu5het, perhaps you should bother doing the teensiest bit of research before planting your lips on Hunt Janins asshole and parroting his misinformed mouth leakage. https://www.amazon.com/Mercenaries-Medieval-Renaissance-Europe-Janin-ebook/dp/B00DWJCS42/ref=sr_1_1?keywords=9781476612072&linkCode=qs&qid=1557437275&s=books&sr=1-1#customerReviews

>Certainly, the author knows how to put together a fairly good narrative, but despite its claim to be a scholarly study (notes and bibliography), this is not the case. This book does a disservice to scholarship and should also not be acquired by librarians at high or middle schools.

I used to own this game, and somehow lost it in the many times I moved. This game was the best, and I would highly recommend it to anyone - specifically this one: https://www.amazon.com/WEAPONS-WARRIORS-CASTLE-SIEGE-GAME/dp/B0080XR7BY. Don't waste time on the older ones, as they over complicate the game.

Set up your two castles, place your soldiers as you like, then load your little red cannon balls on whatever weapon you choose - trebuchet, canon or ballista! (I think there's one more but I can't remember). Then take turns firing at each other's castles. First team to eliminate all the enemy soldiers wins!

Edit: Dang it! They don't even make this game anymore, it's considered a collectible and you can only buy it online for over $100. What a shame. :(