Top products from r/voroncorexy

Don't know if there is a good list, though a few things are mentioned at the bottom of the unofficial V2 BOM. but I'll do my best to say what I used for my V2:

Metric Hex screw drivers: I picked up bondhus 10686 for this build, and it served me well.

Ferrule crimper: Something similar to this ( Mine is actually This guy here., but I'm sure I didn't pay anywhere near that much)

wire stripper: something else I've had forever, but something along these lines

un-insulated terminal crimper: Engineer PA-09 served me very well

Insulated terminal crimper: something else I've had far too long to have the branding. Mine look a lot like these though.

And then it's down to really normal stuff, that you probably already have around: normal screw drivers (mostly phillips), precision screw drivers, scissors, box cutter.

You're bound to want a multimeter for something, at some point.

Oh. And I cut my plexiglas panels on the table saw, since I have one. That's certainly not necessary though. Lots of people doing just fine with scribe cutters like this

You'll notice I didn't include any drill bits or taps. Sorry, I went with the pre-cut, pre-tapped Misumi framing, so I didn't DO any cutting or tapping. I can tell you though, if you're tapping your own, all your taps will be for M5 x 0.8 threaded screws.

Very nice and clean!

Before you heat the bed and set the adhesive, I'd peel it off, clean everything with isopropyl alcohol (the good industrial stuff) and attempt to re-adhere the PEI. If you got yours from Amazon, you should have spare sheets of it.

I rolled on 3M onto the bed first, using an empty wine bottle to drive the bubbles out. Then I trimmed the adhesive and carefully peeled off the other side. Next, I bowed the PEI a bit, lined up the 2 corners, and started rolling it on, using a bottle as a pressure roller. Worked out pretty good.

Also...

http://imgur.com/FgHEkyF

Many options here!

Personally I've used this heat shield tape which is meant for reflecting heat but only ever took it to about 70C. Don't know if it'll unglue at 100C. Did a pretty decent job, making my bed heat up faster and stay warm longer while cycling the heater less. I also used this tape on my hot end before the silicone condoms were out but the heat was softening the adhesive, and I had to use kapton tape to secure it. Also worked reasonably well.

I probably bought them from AliExpress since they're cheaper there but you can easily find them on amazon if you want them sooner than later, ebay, or pretty much anywhere that sells printer parts.. easy way is to search 'e3d v6 push fitting' or 'e3d v6 Bowden fitting'.. just remember you'll need to have m3 bolts that are a little longer and you need to print the part they screw into that's in the voron1.5 extras folder IIRC

BTW the extra driver is used for the second extruder, both Z motors are driven in parallel from a single driver (half the current to both motors). Of course you could also use a single-stepper Z axis, which I recommend.

You will likely not be able to control the extra fans (hotend and electronics box) with the Printrboard, but they could be wired always on. On a stock VORON with RAMPS the hotend fan only runs when the hotend is >50C and the electronics box fan runs only when the printer is being used.

I guess it could work but with a cheapo RAMPS + Arduino kit for $40, it might be worth just skipping the Printrboard.

Got my spring steel from Amazon. My PEI also came from Amazon, but I wanted to get it from a seller with more hits than misses.

You might be asking the wrong guy here, but having used Flashforge, Raise3d and E3d v6 hotends previously, the mosquito is far and away my darling favorite. I don't know if it's "worth it" but I would not print without it at this point.

Have you played around much with different springs as far as how much force is needed? For example, would this spring be close enough to work? It's the same dimensions, but a bit stronger spring force. My concern is finding the balance between spring force here vs. not compressing the bed level springs when probing.

An ATX power supply would work fine, but might I suggest you check one of these out.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B001LK8TCO/ref=psdcmw_1161760_t3_B007JNUSJY

If I'm not mistaken it's a 1U server power supply. More wattage than you'll ever use and probably more reliable than a cheap knockoff supply. You can read a bit more about modifying it here. Basically just applying a dummy load, just like with an ATX power supply.

In the latest version you only need 1 to hold the ramps case door shut. I already had them on hand and I don't believe Bolt Depot sales those so they aren't included.

Hardware wise you'll still need the 3/16" steel dowels, Acetal dowels, neoprene washers, and springs from either McMaster or some other source.

If you are like me and addicted to 2 day prime shipping:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B009YCHRZG/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000N5XF54/
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005KSQDKS/ - cut these to the right length
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005KV0MFW/ - cut these to the right length

You are still on your own to find the neoprene washers. I happen to have some 60A neoprene sheeting on hand that I cut to create dampening squares.

Also these are a suitable replacement for 92470A056 - https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00YBMROKC/ I believe RCF said he was switching to a similar screw in the kits.

you can also find the omron ssr on amazon
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003B316N8/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I got really tired of those all plastic ones and picked up these off of Amazon.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B01IB81IHG/ref=yo_ii_img?ie=UTF8&psc=1

They are spring loaded too, so no need for clips or anything to keep the bowden nice and tight in there.

I got mine from here:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B00QZ7YGFW

Here is the mobile version of your link

IIRC, Super Lube is the Voron-approved grease.

You know, I have a shitload of M3-M5 nuts and bolts but very few screws that fit electronics. I guess now that I am a budding maker I need to remedy this lack. I've got 50 #1 screws coming to address the issue ;) I keep my hardware in several of these boxes. I will be printing some cases soon.

I used this tapping bit and this cutting oil and they worked marvelously.

And to re-state the re-stated: Take your time.

It's a ramps board, here's the exact board (including stepper drivers):
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019TNELNU/ref=oh_aui_search_detailpage?ie=UTF8&psc=1

> stepper drivers, microstepping, steps per mm.

I don't have the setup for steps/mm but what would that have to do with thermal runaway?

> Have you tried swapping hotends/ changing to single?

it's happening on both hotends, so swapping hotends won't make a difference.

> What message you see on screen when it happens

The message on the screen is what's in the title,t hat there was a thermal runaway.

> does the printer restart itself?

The firmware isn't programmed to restart itself after a thermal runaway. You need to hard reboot it.

> Does it happen always at the same time/when?

Not that I have noticed.

> Edit: Do you print from SD card or through the cable?

Cable via octoprint.

these (https://www.amazon.com/Engineer-PA-20-Universal-Terminal-Crimping/dp/B002AVVO7U) changed my view on the connectors. Those big stupid ratcheting ones are useless.