Reddit reviews AUTEK DC DC Converter Buck Module 12V/24V To 5V 3A USB Output Step Down Voltage Regulator Charge Compatible for iPad iPhone 4S 5 6/6 Plus etc (Standard USB)

I had actually come up with a decent list of stuff needed to do a tablet install in a car using a Windows tablet and a S/PDIF connection to a DSP but I never got around to it due to the cost. Here's what I came up with (I know you're UK based but this stuff should be able to be found across the pond):

• USB OTG charging hub - you're going to have to try a few models of this out to find one that works reliably. USB OTG charging is notoriously difficult to get working in a stable way
  
• USB DC-DC 3 amp power convertor for powering all the stuff
  
• USB Bluetooth Adapter - This part is tricky because Windows will connect to bluetooth stuff but doesn't natively HOST bluetooth stuff. This adapter with the included software will fix that and it works but its a tad clunky
  
• Joycon EXR steering wheel interface This guy has a lot of uses, including backup camera control, steering wheel control, and other voltage relay monitors
  
• FM Tuner
  
• USB GPS adapter
  
• USB GPS driver for integrated maps control - GPSDirect
  
• USB to S/PDIF adapter or if you don't plan on using a DSP then a decent USB to RCA DAC
  
  Good luck!
  
  EDIT: as far as software goes Kodi would probably be one of the better choices for software to run on Windows for this purpose.
  

You need to wire a USB converter in to the switch. Shouldn't be too hard to figure it out.

Like this

https://www.amazon.com/Converter-Module-convert-adapter-DCCON-5U-0/dp/B00BMIVFK8/ref=sxbs_bbp_recs_sx_w_p_v1?keywords=usb+to+12v+adapter&pd_rd_i=B00BMIVFK8&pd_rd_r=4fc8a9b5-e19c-46db-9815-2254702fd946&pd_rd_w=lCPmS&pd_rd_wg=lJ0Oy&pf_rd_p=635af317-3bc8-48e5-85cd-9c9c6b613408&pf_rd_r=1THN2VB7TREAYZ6ZVWA9&qid=1573006428

I ordered one of these and tapped an accessory feed in my overhead console. It powers my OnStar module in the mirror so it's switched with the engine. There was plenty of room to install this and route the USB power cable through the headliner, down the mirror post and to my G1W-C that's mounted behind my rear view mirror.

Do you have any power near your rearview?

My car doesnt have the optional compass/map light/powered rearview, but the power leads are there, so I just tapped into them, and added one of these

Now the camera(G1W-C, in my case) is right next to the mirror, and just powers on/off with the iginition.

The G1W-C isnt meant to run without a connected power source - just long enough to finish writing out to the flash card when power goes away.

I got mine from Foxoffer, and it seemed to be a pretty straightforward transaction.

Use something like this and large 12v battery.

Autek DC Converter Buck Module 12V convert to 5V usb output power adapter(DCCON-5U-0) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BMIVFK8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_Amnnzb8KPHM58

Posting as a tinkerer, not necessarily an electronics expert (I'm still in school for that, and only first quarter!).

Just so I'm clear, you are just wanting to use the battery to power the speaker setup, using an MP3 player or something as the source, correct?

This is totally doable, the main item you are missing is some sort of audio amplifier (an mp3 player etc won't drive the speakers). You could build this from scratch, from a kit, or just buy one. From your first sentence, you probably want to buy one, this is one I've had on my Amazon wish list:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B007TUSXEY/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_S_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=3HMEAX7MZ76LD&coliid=IPZIVXD6MGRA9

Assuming the Ruckus batter is 12v, you would be connecting this just like you would to a car. That amplifier just takes RCA for the audio (so just use an adapter cable like you would to connect your MP3 player to your stereo), and then has built in speaker terminals.

You can also wire in something like this so you can power your mp3 player/phone/whatever:

http://www.amazon.com/Autek-Converter-convert-adapter-DCCON-5U-0/dp/B00BMIVFK8/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1395441015&sr=1-1&keywords=12v+to+usb+adapter

For your speakers, I'm not much help there, but I'm figuring you would want something weatherproof so they don't get destroyed (some are made from paper, even a light sprinkle could ruin them pretty quickly).

Anyhow, hope this helps. Usual warnings apply, no warranty, etc etc. :)

> If I DO get the battery, wouldn't I have to let it drain..use the energy in it prior to using solar to fill it up again?

To this question, no to draining. Consider it like a car battery in a car, where it is set for a life of re-maintaining charge off of the alternator/reg. Your 'solar' battery is made for it.

Now, since you bought the 'briefcase' already, I'm not going to reccomend something else, but could if you want.
The reviews don't seem great, understandably. 13 Watt just simply isn't that much, and the convenience isn't worth it, tho the price isn't too bad, comparably. You still have something cool, so not looking to get you down because you shouldn't be. But there are better options, getting cheaper every year. Depending on your usage requirements, you will be the one to find out if it works for you or not.

Sounds like you might have decent setup for someone is simply doing those first things you mentioned. You would want to upgrade if we're talking about the fridge or a vacuum (exceptions being 12v/off-grid styles for these.)

There could be some concerns running the 500 W Inverter off this regulator. I'm pretty sure I used a 300 W inv. off of this same controller box. One night, in a tent with my laptop connected, running audio interface via firewire, the damn thing exploded. I've since discovered it was one of the 12 V regulator (3 pin transistor) chips in it - which makes it an easy fix if you have the component and can solder.

My final point that I will make for you is to look for solutions that come straight off the 12 V Load source from the controller. In other words, bypass the inverter - it sucks too much juice inefficiently for smaller-duty uses such as charging phones. If it's possible to rig up a 12 V laptop cable that you can connect to your source, your system will be completely quiet and maybe 2X as efficient or more! Buy things like this for charging your phone/USB devices, just make sure you diode-protect it or don't switch pos and negative accidentally (I've roasted 2 of them, doing it differently now) Anyway, that's
https://www.amazon.com/Autek-Converter-convert-adapter-DCCON-5U-0/dp/B00BMIVFK8/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1466295975&sr=8-5&keywords=12+v+dc+to+5v+dc+converter

Good for you, hope this helps!

I really like my Mobius Action cam (Wide angle). It's really easy once it is set up, and I would consider it to be a easy-meduim install for someone who is handy with car wiring. This is a post i made awhile ago on here with some info:

You can see day and night examples from mine at these links: Day / Night
also, here is a recent post on /r/JusticePorn where the road rager behind me crashes at the end: Link

I would consider adhesive mounts. Worst case, you can get residue off windows with some solvent. It's not easier, but it's not an issue if you want it up all the time.

PM me with any questions if you want.

I am talking about my rear setup, but its the same for the front:

Pictures of the install: Link (if you have RES and the last pic is rotated incorrectly, just click the picture)

It is a Mobius ActionCam: Link

To install, I powered it by tapping the radio fuse and running the positive wire back to the rear seat under the door sills. I connected it to this 12V DC to USB converter: Link

I found the correctly angled MiniUSB cable and ran it up to the window: Link

I got an adhesive mount because I didn't want it to ever fall off in the heat like some suction cups can. Also, the defroster lines on the window would prevent a suction. I got the "CH-358" from this page: Link

There are also 2 pictures of the front camera in that album. It was installed in roughly the same manner, but I used a different angled USB cable and a lower profile adhesive mount.

Yes, you can split the 12v DC rail from the screen and downvolt one of them to 5v using something like this and run that to USB. I was working on doing just this with mine but instead opted for a battery pack that had the needed 5v2.1a USB out and a 12vDC out on one 20000mAh battery unit to make it portable.

I got this one with dual female usb cables and ran two usb male to mini usb male cables to power both cameras from the single inverter.

I got this (it used to ship with prime) 12v-5v inverter with a single female usb cable to provide power for my Nexus 7 install—whenever I get around to that.

If you get an inverter with dual usb cables, it splits the power output between the two, but if you get one with a single usb cable, you'll get the full power of the inverter to your device.

The dashcams don't need much power to run, but the Nexus 7 will need all that it can get to stay charged while multitasking.

And speaking of...
> UEL headers

Look what just showed up at my door today! http://i.imgur.com/AvzIAhd.jpg

From what I've seen, Mausberry has sold out of the car power supply switches. I get the feeling they've moved onto new stuff and won't be making more of them, but I'd be okay with being wrong about that.

I have that same TFT touchscreen thing, and am looking to put it together in my car as well (though I may use an /r/ODroid C1 instead of an RPi, but that's another discussion).

From a different online discussion of Pi Carputers (don't have a link handy, if I find it, I'll edit it in later), I found a 12V to 5V USB power converter (here's an example: http://www.amazon.com/Autek-Converter-convert-adapter-DCCON-5U-0/dp/B00BMIVFK8/) which can provide always-on or switched power.

There are several discussions of using GPIO to cue the RPi to gracefully shut itself off, especially on StackExchange (http://raspberrypi.stackexchange.com/). There's just a lot of homework to do here.

Physics doesn't care what you have on hand, 10W+ from USB just isn't going to happen.

These aren't too big and SLA is by far the cheapest route. It would run the Pi and screen for hours on a charge.

Run the Pi on something like this.

I'd wire it to a lighter plug and then have a socket connected to the battery, that way you could just unplug it and plug it into the car.

Something like this may be the easiest.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00BMIVFK8

http://www.ebay.com/bhp/12v-to-5v-usb

The plan is to have the whole setup being run from one or two 12v dry cells, the kind that are used in UPS back-up systems.


I can pretty easily get power to the relay boards from a separate 5v source like this and I'll just get a 2nd one for pi itself.

Thanks for your input!