Reddit Reddit reviews Bayco SL-1002 500w Halogen Single Fixture Work Light, Yellow

We found 6 Reddit comments about Bayco SL-1002 500w Halogen Single Fixture Work Light, Yellow. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

Tools & Home Improvement
Building Supplies
Job Site & Security Lighting
Bayco SL-1002 500w Halogen Single Fixture Work Light, Yellow
Durability and Safety tested for the toughest situationsDesigned in the USA with quality materialsUsed in Tactical, Outdoor, Recreation levelsTempered glass lens with metal safety gripFoam grip "S" type handle500-watt halogen bulb with spare bulb includedDurable powder coat finish
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6 Reddit comments about Bayco SL-1002 500w Halogen Single Fixture Work Light, Yellow:

u/popsnicker · 5 pointsr/AdviceAnimals

It's a work light, to see better with

u/Imaybeusethisaccount · 3 pointsr/streetwear

Dope Pickups.

I participate in video production, some simple tips that can and will approve your video quality.

  • I'm unsure what type of camera you are using, but most video cameras have a mic input. A lav mic would make audio never a issue again. You can pick them up super cheap over at amazon LINK

  • Lighting is kinda a issue. Lighting is super cheap too. Run down to that hardware store and pickup some work lights. 20 dollars for 2. LINK. These will make the video quality look 10 time better. Here is my fucking amazing artwork to show you how lighting should be. One behind you on your wall and one behind your camera pointing at you. Super Dope Diagram

    Anything else Im more than happy to help you
u/ent3ndu · 2 pointsr/HomeImprovement

Wire strippers

u/downhillcarver · 2 pointsr/MLPLounge

I'm no expert by any means, this is only a hobby, but I'll give it a shot. Also keep in mind that I'm a film photographer, so some of my knowledge may be irrelevant due to you using digital. You've already got it easier than me thanks to the digital camera.

I put a glossary at the end if any terms are too photography-y for ya.

Your biggest difficulty will most likely be finding a space appropriate for the shot. Large open floor space, some way to whitewash the floor if that's what you're going for. You also will need a high ceiling, the standard 9ft ceilings won't be nearly high enough to obtain that ratio of subject to empty space, not sure if I stated that clearly.

Another of your biggest difficulties will be rigging up your camera mount and reaching said camera once it's mounted. I honestly can't think of any easy setup for you to use. If I think of something I'll let you know.

Now on to lighting. It's a very soft even light, so you cannot have any lights shining directly on the subjects or you're going to get "hotspots" and hard shadows. I would suggest hanging a white sheet off to the left of the shot and shining several bright lights onto that. I would say to just grab the cheapest work light you can find at your local hardware store, but I'm afraid that may be too yellow of a light. If you're going for the "pure" look of white on white on white, the yellow light will throw that off. As such, I'm not sure what to suggest for a light source, just make sure it's bright and you diffuse it by either bouncing the light off a white sheet, or shining it through a white sheet.

Now on to the camera itself, I don't know what kinda camera you have, but this shouldn't be a terribly difficult shot to obtain. It's well lit, there's no motion, and the subjects are at the same focal distance. No matter what camera you're using, make sure the flash is turned off, or all your hard work setting up the soft even lighting will be for nothing.

If you have a generic digital camera, simply take several shots flipping through the different preset modes, I expect portrait will get you the best results. Once you've found the mode you think is best, you may attempt to tweak settings from there to obtain the results you want, but many of these generic cameras either don't have many settings to play with, or they are not easy to access.

If you've got a DSLR (Digital Single Lense Reflex)(they generally look about like this with interchangeable lenses) then you've got the potential to get a much better shot if you've got the time to mess with it. Many DSLRs also have preset modes, you may be able to use one of those as a baseline to start from like before.

Because it's well lit and no motion, you shouldn't need to do anything fancy. If you don't have presets or they aren't doing the trick I'd set the ISO for about 400 and the shutter speed for about 1/32, then adjust the aperture until the picture has the brightness you want, bring it into focus and take the shot. Then tweak it from there to your pleasing.

Very brief summary of photography terms and how they'll effect/help you. If you have a DSLR, you can adjust all these settings, if it's a generic digital camera then I don't know how much control you'll have over these things. I glossed over a lot of stuff here:

  • ISO: this term is a carry over from film. It's basically how quickly the film is exposed when subjected to light. Lower ISO needs more light exposure, higher ISO needs very little. As such, your shutter speed should be adjusted to your ISO, low ISO = slow shutter speed, high ISO = fast shutter speed. Your digital camera still has an ISO setting which you can adjust on the fly.
    400 is a good middle ground for most scenarios. I've personally found that 800 will come out grainy, but that's with film, I dunno if that applies to digital. 200 is good for well-lit, still subjects, so you may want to try it for this photo.
  • Shutter Speed: How quickly your shutter opens and closes. This is measured in fractions of a second, the middle ground is 1/32, usually just called 32. You'll adjust this depending on lighting and if the subject is moving. If you're shooting a sports game on a sunny day, you'll use a faster shutter like 64 or 128 because there's plenty of light, and because of the motion a slower shutter would cause the photo to blur any motion.
  • Aperture: this determines how much light is let into the camera, the aperture is measured by f-stops such as f/1.8 or f/22. Aperture is tied to your ISO and shutter speed. If it's a bright day, choose a higher f-stop, dark night = lower aperture. If you're shooting a fast shutter speed with a low ISO, you'll need to choose a lower aperture to let more light in quickly or else your film will be underexposed. In your situation, simply adjust the aperture till the image looks appropriately bright, then adjust it if your photo comes out light or dark.
    Your aperture will also affect your focal length. Higher f-stop = longer focal length, lower f-stop = shorter focal length. I can elaborate on this later, but it shouldn't effect you on this shot.
  • Focus: I know I don't have to define this, but here's a tip for getting a good sharp focus. Set your aperture as low as it goes, usually f/1.8, focus your shot, then set your aperture to where you want it for the shot. This has to do with how the aperture effects your focal length, which I can elaborate on later.

    I know I went over a lot of information very quickly and I glossed over a lot of stuff. If you have any questions at all, please feel free to ask!
u/teckademics · 2 pointsr/BMW

These are my most used tools for working on cars.


Trim tool - For molding and trim and windows, this is a must

http://www.amazon.com/No-Scratch-Tools-Removing-Fastener-Molding/dp/B000LNBLTK/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1395692539&sr=8-4&keywords=bmw+tools


Tool Set - Here is your best bet for general tools. Start with this basic tool kit.

http://www.amazon.com/Stanley-96-011-170-piece-Mechanics-Tool/dp/B002VXN6TG/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1395692665&sr=8-4&keywords=automotive+tool+kit

Code reader - then this so you can read check engine codes and properly fix the issue. This is a tool that will save you so much money.

http://www.amazon.com/Autel-MaxiScan-MS300-Diagnostic-Vehicles/dp/B001LHVOVK/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395692484&sr=8-1&keywords=obd+2+scanner

Jacks stands - Not so important but pick up some cheap jack stands

http://www.amazon.com/Torin-T43002A-Double-Locking-Jack/dp/B00026Z3E0/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1395692837&sr=8-1&keywords=jack+stands

Light - And a very helpful thing is a good light

http://www.amazon.com/Bayco-SL-1002-Halogen-Project-Light/dp/B000FW7UH4/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1395692872&sr=8-2&keywords=work+lights

u/artoink · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

You don't want to use that bulb.

  • Exposed halogen bulbs are super hot and very sensitive. You cannot get water, oil, dirt, or even finger grease on them or they will burn out (Even burst!).

  • It's a mixed low/high beam bulb, so it has a little cap on the top to prevent blinding other cars and instead relies on the housing to reflect the light out. It projects almost no light straight forward. You'd also need to wire the low and high pins together to get the full 55w out of the bulb.

  • H4 bulbs use a spring loaded pin to hold them in place, which might be hard to mount without something made specifically for it. Potentially that could be easier, depending on where you're putting it.

    Instead use an H4651. It's essentially a halogen bulb inside of a glass reflector case. It is a high beam. It is only two pin, but still uses the same connector. You can find these at any parts store, probably even Wal-Mart. They're cheap too. It won't get nearly as hot, and isn't susceptible to damage from water and other contaminants.

    In all honesty, if you just want a work light you're going to have a hard time beating out one of old standards.