Reddit reviews Behringer Super-X Pro CX2310 Professional High-Precision Stereo 2-Way/Mono 3-Way Crossover with Subwoofer Output

There's no easy way to do this with good (Or should I say "controllable") results

1. I'd guess that your sub only has a low-pass filter, which is why they didn't bother with line-level outputs
   
2. Your interface does not have a crossover
   
   This means that you have two approaches:
   
   The first approach is to use a simple RCA splitter from the line out of your interface, and run one pair of cables to the sub, and one pair to the speakers. In this case, you'd typically want to set the crossover frequency on your sub to 80 Hz, calibrate the levels of the AV-40's and the sub. After calibration, you can start toying with the crossover frequency, in case there is a hole in the response between 80 and 100 Hz.
   
   The better approach is to throw money at the problem and get an external crossover like the Behringer CX2310 (plus three pairs of XLR to RCA cables), jam the crossover frequency on the sub all the way up to 160, and instead set the frequency lower on the Behringer. Two advantages of this approach
   
   
3. The AV-40's will, now that they are relieved of trying to amplify bass and play it, going to have an easier time, and should sound both better and more clear
   
4. Getting rid of the potential hole or bump in the frequency response you get is going to be a lot easier.
   
   In either of my two alternatives, you need to forget that the volume controls on your speakers and sub are no longer volume controls, but merely used for calibration.

You would need a crossover in the middle to feed the highs to the monitor's amps and the lows to the sub's amp

https://www.amazon.com/rolls-SX45-Tiny-Stereo-Crossover/dp/B00102VWJK/

If you want to keep it balanced, use a "pro" audio crossover:

https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-CX2310-BEHRINGER-SUPER-X-PRO/dp/B0002Z82LM/

or a "pro" equalizer with subwoofer outputs -

https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-FBQ1502HD-BEHRINGER-ULTRAGRAPH-PRO/dp/B013JLZMZE

(I use "pro" in quotes, because Behringer is the cheapest bottom of the barrel "pro" company. Generally used by DJs or small mobile / live PA scenarios and not really in high-end recording studio environments). But they are perfectly fine to use. I've built a few budget systems with their components with no issues whatsoever.

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Alternatively, pick up a proper studio monitor sub - they usually include an active crossover inside the sub, allowing you to run your full range signal directly into the sub (unbalanced or balanced), where it splits the lows to the sub's internal amp and sends a highpass back out to the mains. (Many have a bypass foot switch so you can click off the sub and run the mains full range again when you want.) - but you generally won't find these under $400.

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EDIT - Someone found one!

https://www.monoprice.com/product?c_id=115&cp_id=11504&cs_id=1150401&p_id=605999&seq=1&format=2

No that's not a crossover. It won't help you. This is a crossover, for example. But if you say something about your source/s I can recommend something more specific.

I'd consider the following:

• miniDSP 2x4 - $105
  
• BEHRINGER CX2310 - $80
  
  But your're right, there's not much out there. There is also the PFMOD which is $50 but a bit of a wildcard due to the lack of buffering which makes it susceptible to changes due to source and load impedance.

May I recommend a cost effective solution? Normally I would recommend the use of an Outlaw Audio ICBM, however it has been discontinued.

Here'ss the Behringer equivalent.
I know, its crap but it will work.

cheap

The cheapest solution is to use the sub's high level inputs and outputs: run wires from the amp to the sub's high level inputs, and then from its outputs to the speakers.

This won't be ideal though, because the main speakers will still play the low frequencies at the same time of the subwoofer, forcing you to cross the subwoofer at the speaker's natural rolloff, which defeats half the purpose of a sub (relieving the main speakers of bass duty to improve their performance) and resulting in an uneven frequency response.

To solve this problem, you have to get an active crossover that will divide the frequencies between the speakers and subwoofer, like this or, even better, a miniDSP which requires a bit of configuration but works amazingly and offers the bonus of room correction.

This will limit your inputs to a single one though, because the signal will have to first go to the XO and then the amp and sub.

But, is your PC your only source? If it is, this won't be a problem. Then again, is it a desktop? If it is, you could use the internal sound card (which is generally 7.1) to drive the subwoofer directly and use the computer as a software crossover, see this guide.

maybe this one? https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-CX2310-BEHRINGER-SUPER-X-PRO/dp/B0002Z82LM/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1542149070&sr=8-3&keywords=behringer+crossover

for the amp, you don't necessarily need to get a 2000 watt amp as the 2000 watts it's rated for is the peak, but you just have to make sure you don't send a clipped signal to the sub or you risk damaging it (it's where a limiter will help).

Honestly, when you add up the cost of the sub, the amp, and the crossover - not to mention a limiter, you might be better off returning the passive sub and just grabbing their powered version - https://www.sweetwater.com/store/detail/B1800XP--behringer-b1800xp-3000w-18-inch-powered-subwoofer

It's $300 more, and will include a built in crossover, a built in limiter, and a built in amp and it's rated much louder than the passive version and much easier to setup and run. You literally just plug the mixer into the sub, run the high pass outputs to the speakers, adjust the volumes so everything sounds balanced, and you're good to go.

Skip the polk. A Dayton Sub-1000 will serve you better. Splitting the RCA won't halve the volume but it may fall a db or two from just power loss. The issue is you will still be sending full range to the AV40's since most subs don't provide RCA passive cutoffs. This isn't the worst thing but hard to avoid without buying a fully active crossover like this.

SVS SB1000 a good match for Airmotiv 6s nearfield? Currently have an XDA-2 and I'd buy a Behringer for crossover. My rooms 11x13.

I hear the "PFMod" (adjustable) is an improvement.

Honestly for $25 more, I would just pick up this:

https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-CX2310-BEHRINGER-SUPER-X-PRO/dp/B0002Z82LM/

Thank you Zeos for the RBH R5BIR video review (btw, link missing on this page currently). In that video you mentioned setting the crossover in your receiver but what about those that don't have this capability?

I have an Emotiva PT-100 stereo preamp. I don't believe the PT-100 has that capability (unless I'm mistaken). Is there an alternate solution for this? Perhaps something like the Behringer Super-X Pro Cx2310 or one of the Rolls crossovers (SX21 or SX45)? But for lower end equipment is this even worth it? Perhaps a cheaper solution is available? Or, by "just deal with it" should I conclude that bass management is simply not a thing for stereo-only systems?

Anyway, thanks for the video. If you have any video or material that covers setting the crossover point in your receiver (primarily covering what you do in situations where your electronics doesn't support it) I'd definitely be interested to see it.

https://www.amazon.com/Behringer-CX2310-BEHRINGER-SUPER-X-PRO/dp/B0002Z82LM/ref=pd_sbs_23_1?ie=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=KW33VG6QFHEH815RRK7K would this be an acceptable one? What cables would I need to hook up to this crossover. Really struggling sorry.

What you're looking for, in audio terms, is a "crossover", which takes the input, and splits it into low frequency and high frequency parts. Run the low frequency side to the subs, and the high frequency side to the monitors.

Behringer makes one.