Reddit reviews Dayton Audio SPA250 250 Watt Subwoofer Plate Amplifier
We found 6 Reddit comments about Dayton Audio SPA250 250 Watt Subwoofer Plate Amplifier. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.
Switchable 6 dB @ 35 Hz bass boost
Measured power output: 156 watts RMS into 8 ohms @ 0.1% THD, 252 watts RMS into 4 ohms @ < 1.0% THDMono Class AB output stage for solid, well defined outputLow-level, high-level, and LFE inputs connect to any systemManual, auto, or triggered on/off modes for compatibility with any automated systemVariable gain, crossover point and switchable phase controls optimize room integration
Well, Maybe...
The Bass Shakers you linked at rated at 50 watts rms and are 4 ohm.
The amp you linked is 45 watts rms @ 8 ohms or 70 watts at 4 ohms..
So, currently, you will be wiring the shakers in series so it'll be 8 ohms. That means you are running 45 watts to them so each will get 22-ish watts rms which is about 1/2 the shakers rated power.
If you get to more you will put these 2 in series again BUT then take the 2 pairs and put them in parallel. That means you now have a 4 ohm load on the amp and you now have 70 watts rms. Divide that by 4 and you get 17 watts to each shaker which is only a few watts lower than when you had 2 shakers..
Personally, I think that amp is under powered for even 2 shakers,
The 250 watt plate amp is a better choice (http://www.amazon.com/Dayton-Audio-SPA250-Subwoofer-Amplifier/dp/B0070Z81MW). That would give you 75 watts of power @ 8 ohms (2 shakers) and if you want 2 more you do the series/paralell and you will still have 62 watts of power to each shaker. The idea of having an amplifier with more power than the shakers is so you aren't running the amplifier into clipping by trying to get more power out of it than it can supply. You just set you gain (level) on the amp with extra power so you don't over power the shakers.
If you are a more DIY-guy you can get a pair of auroras ( price per pair ) together with a subwoofer-amp , In my opinion this set is superior to the Buttkicker Gamer 2 (even one Aurora would be enough though, you don't necessarily need a pair)
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0070Z81MW/ref=mp_s_a_1_2?qid=1425853459&amp;sr=8-2&amp;pi=AC_SY200_QL40&amp;keywords=250+watt+subwoofer+amp&amp;dpPl=1&amp;dpID=51lNgdPk9AL&amp;ref=plSrch
Not sure if this fits your specifications but I've berm looking at it and it has favorable reviews. I was just going to use it for a bass transducer setup though.
I have a 10 in JL 10W3V3 setup in my office. I looked at getting a 12 volt transformer to dump power into the amp but in the end the most inexpensive way to drive my 4 olm sub was to get on of these and bolt it onto the box.
I did and it sounds amazing!
https://www.amazon.ca/gp/product/B0070Z81MW/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&amp;psc=1
You have a passive (non amplified) subwoofer and your receiver is putting out a non amplified signal. What you need to make this work is either a new amplified/powered (active) subwoofer or an amplifer that you can hook into the existing unit.
You can either get a plate amplifier and add it to the sub enclosure or an stand alone amplifier. However, in reality it's probably cheaper to just just by a Dayton subwoofer and be done with it.
This type of plate amp is what you want if you are building the sub and want to install the amp in the sub box itself. This technique is what commercially-built subs will do.
If you want the amp in a separate box from the sub, then this type of amp is what you want.
The reason why car amps are cheap is because they have a high-current 12V power-supply to tap into already built in the car (the battery/alternator system). The reason why home audio amps are more expensive is because they have to built that power supply into the amp itself rather than just tapping in the car.
ps. I went through this whole thing when I was in college and short on money but wanting big bass at home. Built some passive (no amplifier) subs powered off boom boxes or compact systems (not enough current in those amps for decent results) and then receivers (decent results if the receiver has enough juice). Later just got a commercially-built sub. Decent ones are available pretty affordably nowadays but I'm glad I went through the learning process. I understand audio tradeoffs much better because of it.