Reddit reviews DC Power Supply Adjustable (0-30 V 0-10 A), Eventek KPS3010D Variable Switching Regulated Digital Power Supply with Alligator Leads US Power Cord
We found 5 Reddit comments about DC Power Supply Adjustable (0-30 V 0-10 A), Eventek KPS3010D Variable Switching Regulated Digital Power Supply with Alligator Leads US Power Cord. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.
DC Power Supply Adjustable: 0-30 volts and 0-10 amp outputs; the Back-lit LED display accuracy: 0.1 V and 0.01AConstant voltage and current operation mode (C.C and C.V. automatic conversion); Light weight with heavy OutputIntelligent temperature control with built-in thermo-sensor, effectively reduce noise and prolong the life of productMultiple protections: limit current protection, thermal protection, voltage overload protection, short-circuit protectionEventek DC Power Supplies are FCC certified, 30 Days Money Back 12 Months Limited Guarantee for you !
A (slow-blow) fuse or breaker would be ideal, as they are designed to handle exactly this situation. Your local hardware store probably has an assortment of fuses, and a few fuse holders.
Another option is a PTC. These are basically resistors whose resistance varies massively with temperature. They start out with almost no resistance, but if the current going through them gets too high, they get hot, and their resistance goes up drastically. So they choke down the current flow to a level that will hopefully not harm anything too badly. Disconnect the power, let them cool off, and they go back to being almost no resistance. Essentially it's like a miniature thermal breaker. These are going to be much harder for an amateur to find, though. It's not the kind of thing the local hardware store will have.
Regardless of which of the above you choose, make sure it's rated for the correct amount of current. If you need a fuse that blows at 1 amp, and you use a fuse that blows at 15 amps, then obviously it ain't gonna work right.
You talked about a 9V battery. You're probably going to be surprised how little current you can actually get out of a typical PP3 9V battery. The reason is that most of them are made of 6 series-connected alkaline cells. Each cell has internal resistance. And when you series six cells, you multiply that resistance by 6. Which by V = IR cuts the max current by 6.
Lead-acid batteries (car, motorcycle) can deliver ridiculous burst currents (100+ amps for < 1 sec), which may be what you want. But if so, be careful. You'll easily be able to make thin wire glow white-hot with those kind of currents. Also sometimes non-sealed lead-acid batteries can leak flammable hydrogen. Hydrogen + white-hot wires = bad. Finally, discharging a lead acid battery too far can ruin it.
The absolute ideal case, and also the most expensive, would be a proper bench power supply with current limiting. This would allow you to turn the voltage up and down to tweak it to exactly what you want, while having a hard current limit to avoid any burning wires. However, this option is expensive. E.g. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B073TW8H2S/
I've been happy with this power supply I bought off Amazon. I looked around for a manual battery charger, but didn't find one.
I bought this. It has served me well through circuits and electronics classes. You can find a combo beadboard/components kit on Amazon.
Although the theory and understanding of nodes and meshes from circuit theory is important, practical electronics-level knowledge can be found in The Art of Electronics. See genlib, but I suggest to buy it and get some basic electronics kit, a power supply (a proper lab supply with adjustable voltage and current limit [1]) and a breadboard and create the circuits that you're studying, play with the basic devices, and make a project once you get the hang of stringing logical blocks of circuit components together.
I find it fun :)
[1] SOmething like https://www.amazon.com/Adjustable-Eventek-KPS3010D-Switching-Regulated/dp/B073TW8H2S/ref=sr_1_5?keywords=lab+power+supply&qid=1565149853&s=gateway&sr=8-5
It is the same chassis as my current supply, maybe same actual device inside, but I found it for more like $60 a few years back. The key is the ability to set a current limit, so when you hook something up incorrectly the circuit doesn't fry.
You are looking at it the correct way. You want to be pretty exact when it comes to the power supply. Some electronics have more or less tolerance to the power supply being exact than others, so you can’t 100% rule out that you just don’t have the right one. Depending on your budget there’s a couple different things you can do. 1) try to email peavy customer support and tell them the exact model you have and if they can sell a power supply to you or recommend one that would work from their existing parts supply. If you’re lucky, they should be able to send you a power supply for pretty cheap (maybe $10-40 shipped...? Just a guess tho).
2) if you can’t get it from peavy, look for that exact voltage and amperage power supply from any electronics supplier online. If the barrel plug doesn’t exactly fit, splice it onto one that does fit the peavy.
3) the slightly more expensive option, but as you were indicating, you want to know whether or not it’s a power supply issue first. Over the years of investing in electronics, I eventually got a bench tester. This one :bench tester
It allows you to finely dial in whatever voltage and amperage setting you need to properly power your dc circuit. This is a really helpful tool to have and will
Allow you to provide power to any dc electronics that you’re troubleshooting or prototyping. Obviously if you’re trying to just stick to making work what you already have, it might be prohibitively expensive, but In the lifetime of working with electronics, this and a multimeter are invaluable