Best instruments & equipment for labs according to redditors

We found 1,116 Reddit comments discussing the best instruments & equipment for labs. We ranked the 444 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.

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Lab centrifuges
Power supplies for labs
Water purification equipment for labs
Microscopes & Equipment
Lab cages & aquariums
Lab meters
Electrochemistry accessories for labs
Light sources for labs
Spectroscopy supplies for labs
Evaporation & Drying Equipment
Fluid & liquid handling for labs
Lab gas handling products
Heating & cooling equipment for labs
Mixing & Blending Equipment
Vacuum & Pump Equipment
Scales & balances for labs

Top Reddit comments about Lab Instruments & Equipment:

u/dcabines · 101 pointsr/Homebrewing

If I were to start over and buy new equipment, one of those all-in-one systems would be very attractive. My only concern with them is I don't have a high voltage outlet and I wouldn't want to deal with an under powered system.

For a traditional system I'd do something like this:

u/USS-SpongeBob · 15 pointsr/diypedals

Eighth swirl attempt. Trial and error = improvement.

It's an aluminum enclosure, so paint adhesion is always a potential problem. I used self-etching primer - it chemically etches the surface of the aluminum, providing a good base coat that other paints can stick to.

After that, I put down a base coat of intense orange. I've found that swirled paint jobs tend to have a lot of see-through areas, so you want to plan the bottom layer strategically. I let this dry for about 3 days before I proceeded to the dip because enamel spray paints stay tacky for so long.

For dipping, I put a large plastic trash bag into a 3 gallon bucket before adding the water. The trash bag prevents paint from mucking up your bucket, which is important if your bucket is also used for serving chilled canned beverages at fabulous summer barbecues.

I filled the bucket with room temperature water. I added 7.5g Borax per liter of water to reduce the surface tension and allow the paint to flow over the water's surface.

For paints, I used Humbrol brand enamel paints. I was able to find them at my local hobby shop even though they weren't listed as a retailer on the Humbrol website. They should be available at most serious hobby / model airplane stores, as they're one of the classic brands of model paint that have been around almost since plastic models appeared on the market.

If doing 3-color swirls, I think think one could dip about 10 pedals from three 14mL cans of paint. The consistency should be like warm syrup: not thin like water, but able to drip or drizzle off the end of a coffee stir stick (the smaller size makes them easier to use than a popsicle stick because the cans are so little). Stir really well. If too thick, thin with mineral spirits / white spirit. I dropped it in with a plastic pipette - about 10-30 drops were required, depending on how thick the paint was. (I also tried thinning with white gas / naphtha, but it did not work as well. Despite the similarity in name - white spirit vs white gas - they are not equivalent!)

I'm going to stop posting links now; the section above is where I had the most trouble finding quality instruction in the Internet when I was figuring out how to do this, but there are plenty of YouTube videos that demonstrate the actual swirling/dipping process described below.

I drop the paints into the water by dipping a stir stick into the paint and letting it drip off the end into the water. Drop the paints into the water from as close to the surface as possible - if you drop from too high, the paint will plunge through the surface and sink to the bottom. The first few drops on the surface might thin out into a fine sheen on the surface of the water, but eventually they'll saturate the surface with a fine layer of paint and you'll be able to start getting good dots and ropes of color. I noticed that different colors seem to behave differently as they hit the surface - it's smart to try some experimental dips to master your paints before actually dipping your enclosure.

Work quickly. The paint is drying on the surface of the water even as you drop it in. It doesn't even take a minute for a thin coat of floating paint to tack up.

Swirl carefully with a stick to make your designs and move the paint where you want it. Be aware that the more you swirl, the more paint you will end up with on your stir stick instead of on your work piece.

Dip your pedal slowly and carefully (on the end of a stick or a coat hanger so your hand doesn't end up getting swirled too). The paint will be pulled onto the surface of the pedal and dragged underwater with the pedal. After it's completely submerged, use crunched up newspaper to clear an open spot on the surface of the water to pull the pedal back out so it doesn't end up with swirls on top of swirls.

Pull the pedal out. Blow or shake the water off. By the time you're finished doing that, thin areas of paint will basically be dry, medium areas will be tacky, and thick areas will be on their way. Hang it up to dry in a wind/dust free area.

If you hate it, wipe it off with mineral spirits within an hour or two and start over.

If you like it, let it dry a couple days and then top coat with something tough.

u/dutchesse · 14 pointsr/Indiemakeupandmore

Honestly? You will screw up once or twice when you first start, but generally, it's a fairly easy process and you'll save yourself a lot of money in the long run by doing it yourself.

Just to give you an idea of how I do it, here are the items I use. If you have Amazon Student/Prime, it'll be even easier:

  • 26mm palette (this one is $19/3)

  • Pipettes

  • Jojoba oil

  • Double-ended spatula

  • Alcohol (I believe mine is 70%, but I'm not able to check on that. Either way, if you're living in a dorm, this is something you may want to have anyways in a first aid kit)

    For me, I mix it in small tupperware (obviously, I don't use this for storing food at anymore). For 2 small packets of Shiro samples (or even a minijar (both of which fit comfortably in the aforementioned palette)), I use a mixture of no more than 3 drops of jojoba oil and use alcohol to mix it into a paste, of which I then place into the aluminum palette.

    You don't want to use an excessive amount of the oil because then it will almost never dry and dilute the color. Whereas, alcohol evaporates out faster so you want to use more of the alcohol than the jojoba oil (or whatever binding solution you choose). Once it gets dried down to a certain point, you can press if you choose to, but I never feel I need to when I do it this way because it's generally pretty uniform.

    I know dorm rooms are crampy, but you can do this anywhere once you get the hang of it and for cheaper than having someone else do it (especially if you take into consideration the excessive shipping costs--which will be more than the cost of what you'd be using for some of these products alone).

    ETA: Added details.
u/uberhobo · 14 pointsr/askscience

25% phosphoric acid isn't particularly dangerous, and it's not horribly corrosive. Plastic or glass will be fine. I wouldn't let it sit on metal for an extended period of time, so be careful if you plan to use metal needles with your syringe. Plastic transfer pipettes work nicely, though. I like this style because it allows you to eyeball the amount you're adding without needing anything like a syringe.

u/firephly · 9 pointsr/Indiemakeupandmore
u/hchu243 · 9 pointsr/treedibles

> is there any way to make edibles that i basically cant mess up?

So you know how to make cannabutter?

Buy these:

Fill with a syringe:

Swallow pills with drink of choice.
Keep in fridge because you used butter. If you ever branch out to Tincture or Coconut oil, you can keep at room temp.

u/bsohm · 8 pointsr/wicked_edge

Amazon US Cleaner

Everyone has different budgets but Amazon has them for $35

u/JonSzanto · 8 pointsr/fountainpens

Honestly, I can't. About 5 years ago I just searched Amazon for the best one (by review) under $30 and bought it (not handy at the moment or I'd get the brand) but it has performed flawlessly, though I don't use it daily or anything. This one looks very, very close, the interior basket looks identical. You could always return if it doesn't seem to perform the way you expect.

u/thatsnotmybike · 7 pointsr/microgrowery

> - 10 mL syringes to help measure nutes

I am quite fond of these 100 pack of 3ml pipettes.

u/daath · 7 pointsr/DIY_eJuice

I would get a cheap precision scale instead of syringes (must have 0.01g precision!). Then a big pack of disposable pipettes.

And bottles. Many bottles. LDPE dripper bottles. Or glass.

u/gogosolar · 7 pointsr/fountainpens

Get yourself a Bulb Syringe for a few bucks from your local drug store or dollar store and try the soak again and then a flush with the bulb syringe. Amazon and pen shops such as Goulet also sell them.Goulet's video about pen flushing.

Next step could be an ultrasonic cleaner

u/davdev · 7 pointsr/PlantedTank

40 gallons is going to be pushing on what you can accomplish with DIY, so I would avoid going that route, as you wont wind up happy.

As for what you will need, it is really very simple, but not particularly cheap. You need a CO2 tank, a regualtor, bubble counter, diffusor and gas line.

CO2. Go with a 5 or 10 lb tank. If you can find used even better as most places just swap tanks when you fill them, so you get your new shiny aluminum tank, bring it to get filled, they take it and give you a banged up used one back. A 5lb tank should last 3-4 months depending on how many bubbles per second you are pumping

Regulator with Bubble Counter and solenoid, the solenoid is what shuts off flow of CO2 at night, when plugged into a timer. Plants don't utilize CO2 at night, so continuing to pump it into the tank is just wasting gas. Keep it on the same cycle as your lights, or better yet, and hour behind, so it turns on and hour before the lights come on, and off an hour before the lights go off.

Diffuser, you can spend a little or a lot here. I dont really see the need to spend a ton with this part. You do want to see if the unit has a check valve though, and if not, you will need to add one between the bubble counter and diffuser to prevent a back siphoning.

Gas tubing very important you get tubing rated for CO2 gas. Do not use regular air line of the gas will eat right through it

u/alaskabrown · 7 pointsr/AsianBeauty

Sample containers:
The bottles with the green flip-caps are from Amazon (~0.5oz/15mL each, $21.99 for 36).
The little pots with screw-on lids are also from Amazon (3mL each, $7.99 for 50). I wound up making 2 pots for each sample because they were a little smaller than I had imagined (Starfish Lord, grant me the presence of mind to look at dimensions before ordering things), so next time I might get these slightly bigger ones (5mL each, $10.00 for 50).

Decanting supplies:
I used these plastic transfer pipettes (3mL, $4.50 for 100) to decant anything that I could suck up with them.
Anything in a pot was decanted using these wooden spatulas ($22.98 for 500); I put 2-3 in with each potted sample and kept the rest for myself. (Forgive me, my Spiny-Skinned Savior, for lacking the diligence to wash and dry my plastic spatulas after each use; pray accept my disposable compromise or guide me to a better way).

The small ones are from the Container Store (2.5” x 3”, $0.89 for package of 10).
The larger ones are from Wegmans, but similar ones are available at Target (3.5” x 5.5”, $2.24 for 64).

I tested a lot of different markers before I found some that didn’t smear/smudge/wipe-off and that could withstand the watery trials of the bathroom counter. From my own stash, these three worked:
Gold: Montana Acrylic Extra Fine Point (0.77mm) Marker in Matte Gold (Metallic) (available from Dick Blick for $5.35).
White: Sharpie Oil-Based Paint Extra-Fine Point Marker in White (available from Joann for $2.62).
Teal/peacock blue: Derwent Graphik Line Painter (acrylic, 0.5mm) in Brilliant (available from Dick Blick for $3.96).

u/zachabt · 7 pointsr/ElectricalEngineering

Oscilloscope kits are great. I just did this one a little while back. It was a lot of fun and handy for the price. They sell an acrylic case kit separately too.

kuman 3O-IUX5-O0TZ DSO 138 DIY Kit Open Source 2.4" TFT 1MSPS Digital Oscilloscope Kit with DIY Parts + Probe 13803K, SMD pre-soldered

I also got this little signal generator kit to check the O-scope function.

Naravis Gelatinized Black Maca...

u/boredepression · 7 pointsr/Hydroponics

That is the wrong way to learn about growing. It's costly and slow. Just watch some YouTube videos and go try. It's how I got started. I knew 0 about growing anything 6 months ago. Now I've got a successful crop and have a single tomato plant with over 20 tomatoes on it and many bell peppers growing, okra, pablano peppers, raddish, lettuce, basil, potatoes, kale and brussel sprouts. I've only spent about $200 too.

Most Helpful links/videos:

Intro to NPK:

This is a great intro to nutrient deficiencies and effects on plants and how to diagnose:

Cheap Vinyl Downspout grow box:

Pool noodles instead of rockwool, rocks, or cups:

Common Veggie EC and pH:

Easy to use nutrients:

Cheap good EC meter (EC is shown in μs/cm instead of the more common ms/cm, as in above link, so the EC shown should be divided by 1000 to get normal EC numbers; it's easy, just remember when it shows 2300 EC, that's an EC of 2.3, or 700 is 0.7. Also note I've found with all these EC meters you need to dip and then swish them around in the solution and then read it, otherwise it will read inaccurate due to tiny air bubbles on the probes)

Cheap good pH meter:

Easy micro greens, which you use to sprout seeds you want to grow or eat as micro greens:

ReUse 2 disposable plastic food containers, a cheap poly wicking cloth, and your choice of grow bed (dirt, coco coir, whatever)...

Stack the two containers.

Make 2 long cuts in the bottom of the top container thru the lid of the bottom container, along the 2 longer sides.

Push the cloth thru the 2 slots, such that it's layered across the bottom of the top container and the ends are hanging in the bottom container.

Fill bottom container with water.

Place grow bed material in top container on top of cloth.

The cloth wicks up the water and keeps the grow bed moist. You don't have to water it but maybe once every two weeks and can leave the micro plants there for staging plant growth every couple weeks cause they will grow slow. If you don't use dirt as the grow bed, you will need to replace water with a weak nutrient solution after three or four weeks.

u/zosoleary · 6 pointsr/ResearchMarkets

holy crap this is scary as fuck! please please please be careful. it's very obvious you don't know what you are doing. remember 2 grams is 2,000 pills. don't try to eyeball doses or keybumps or anything like that. first step: get a milligram scale!!!! you said earlier you have a gemini 20, that's would work just fine. then you are going to need a graduated cylinder, and some PG. i do 2mg per 1 ml of pg. so i weigh out 100mg of etizolam, carefully measure out 50 ml of pg then mix the two in a vial. just shake it hard core then let it rest overnight then shake it some more (takes it a while to dissolve in PG). make sure to store the vial outside of sunlight because that damages the etizolam (i wrapped electrical tape around my travel vial). then get a transfer pipette or oral syringe and make your dose (half a ml for 1 pill, 1ml for 2 pills). tastes horrible, best to put it in a drink or have a chaser handy. PLEASE BE CAREFUL!!!! it's hard to measure out under half a ml accurately so 10mg a ml means you HAVE to do at least 5 at a time. it's just a good recipe to extreme and dangerous addiction and would make it even harder to taper off.

u/pyr02k1 · 6 pointsr/DIY_eJuice

On that starter kit you mentioned... It's fine, but it isn't the best route if you think you might stick with this.

First up, read up on mixing by weight. /u/Botboy141 has a fantastic write up on it. It ends up being cheaper and faster long term versus mixing with syringes. Take into account that you should use different syringes for each flavor and you'll have to clean them after use... The cleaning murders the time mixing and that kit doesn't have many syringes, so you'll be cleaning a lot.

A break down for you on mixing by weight... It isn't 100% I'd bet, but it should be close enough.
Scale: 16.99 - this is the one I have, but the auto shut off is a friggin annoyance. Pick up the one Botboy141 recommends for the extra 14 or so dollars. So let's go with 30
Pipettes: 10.00 for 500 1ml.
10 for 200 3ml (you can probably find a better price) -
Dispensing bottles x2: 7.00
Pg: 13.00
Vg: 13.00
Nicotine: 100mg/120ml 19.00 50 30ml ldpe bottles: 11.00

$113, call it 130 with some shipping here and there.

Now add flavors, assuming you get 50 bucks of 8ml vials from wizard labs and you're running closer to 200. This will get you a good bunch of juice and the next time around you'll probably get 4oz bottles of your favorite flavors and maybe some more pg vg nic and possibly pipettes. It's worth the money, but syringes will be cheaper up start costs. You'd probably save about 70 bucks to start, but it'll cost you in frustration and time, which isn't worth the pain from all I remember with them.
Edit: I say wizard only because of the sample size of the vials... You can use bull city, tfa and lorann direct for 4oz and up on a bunch, or any other vendor really. But 50 in wizard with shipping will probably get you 25 or 30 vials.

Syringes will take away the scale and dispensing bottles and pipettes, so 60 bucks actually, and you'll add about 30 back in a bunch of 1ml, a few 3 or 5 and a couple of 10 for pg/vg and14ga blunt needles.

Hopefully that helps a bit. I can reformat it later on the computer if need be.

u/AudioCasanova · 6 pointsr/Nootropics

That's why you have to buy one of these suckers

It's pretty easy to make phytosomes actually. Just liquify some lecithin (equal amount to the amount of substance you're trying to prepare) by letting it sit in warm water than blending it. Add your desired substance to the mixture, then pour some of the solution (I think doing small amounts at a time works better than doing the whole thing at once) into the ultrasonic cleaner, turn it on and stir it as it is running.

Bam! You have your own phytosome complexes :)

u/welcmhm · 6 pointsr/fountainpens

It was a few bucks cheaper when I bought it. Doesn't have a timer, so sometimes I cut it short or run it a few times in a row.

u/the_raptor · 5 pointsr/arduino

I would go with a Rigol DS1052 or DS1102 because they are a very thoroughly tested unit at the $300 - $400 price point. If you want to go lower than $300 buy a second hand scope.

u/asongofhypeandfire · 5 pointsr/Indiemakeupandmore

Do you think plastic pipettes would work?

u/AZ_Jeep · 5 pointsr/DIY_eJuice

u/Bonzoo is correct, it acts like a centrifuge - the liquid doesn't mix, it just settles at one end while it's spinning.


How do I know? I wasted $10 buying a similar lab clamp from Amazon.


If you're dead set on getting one, the one I bought is now $12 214F2 Karter Scientific Extension Lab Clamp 3 Prong Single Adjust 10-90mm Jaw


Shake the crap out of recipes that are steeping once a day, then give a couple shakes before filling tanks or dripping on bottles that are being consumed.

u/onewordnospaces · 5 pointsr/lifehacks
u/SnowHawkMike · 5 pointsr/vaporents

For those of you whom would like to make one of your own you can purchase the magnetic stirrer hot plate here ($210), and the Pyrex Erlenmeyer Flask here ($15.95)! Total investment cost: $225.95.

Alternatively you can purchase this magnetic stirrer hot plate for significantly less, bringing the total cost down to $175.90.

u/the_resident_skeptic · 5 pointsr/diypedals
u/akeikas · 5 pointsr/weddingplanning

i would invest into a $25~35 ultra sonic cleaner on Amazon. They are great for glasses, other jewelry, etc. I plan on using that the morning of the wedding or something. This is what I have [here] ( works amazing

edit: trust me, the ring is most likley dirtier than you think. the before and after is SO different.

u/AsherMaximum · 5 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

For that particular one it is a deal. I found it at amazon for $60.

However, there are others on amazon with better reviews for less.

u/_Bombies · 5 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

This one used to be cheaper on amazon. I think you can look it up on camel camel camel to see its price fluctations. It's been recommended quite often on here over the years. If you have the patience maybe you can wait until the price drops on this bad boy. But most of these jewlery cleaners, at least the ones with the similar dimensions, are rebrands. Kind of like those TDS and PH meters you get for your pool, there's a ton of them on amazon and ebay etc. most will perform fairly similar. (you get what you pay for).

u/redditmudder · 5 pointsr/ElectricalEngineering

Even a $20 oscilloscope(full disclosure: this is my video) is better than a DMM when it comes to debugging anything beyond the most basic circuits. But if you really want to splurge, buy him a ~$349 Rigol 1054Z. That's a professional-level instrument on a tinkerer's budget... I used to use a $40,000 Tek scope, and honestly I prefer the Rigol's user interface... I only use the $$$ scope when I need more than 100 MHz analog bandwidth (which is rare for most engineers to ever need).

u/TokeFerPedro · 5 pointsr/Waxpen

I use a sonic jewlery cleaner. I place my coils in a baggies of 70% or better ISO. Place the baggice in the cleaner in some water. Run it for 2 10 min cycles and i got nearly virgin coils. Just dry em for a day and the dry fire em a few times to release any trapped alcohol.

I use this one which has a built in heater so you don't have to warm your ISO.

u/system-user · 4 pointsr/kratom

In the kitchen I use a magnetic mixer ( but if I'm traveling or at work I use a 250ml bottle and shake it up a lot with the cap on.

My preference for drinks is Chocolate Almond Milk with some brown sugar. Takes the awful taste away.

u/hellspar · 4 pointsr/3Dprinting

I use one of the magnetic stir mixer. Been working out for me. Similar to this one, Magnetic stirrer magnetic mixer with stir bar 3000 rpm Max Stirring Capacity: 3000ml

u/Ocelotsnake · 4 pointsr/Invisalign

I use an ultra sonic cleaner ( Amazon, $30) and use some cheap denture cleaner like many recommend here. Mine are crystal clear. Seriously, just buy one and use it everyday. It makes things so much easier.

u/St-Jed-of-Calumet · 4 pointsr/winemaking

OP here. I have an old vine zin (and a few others) that I started fermenting last year. After primary, I’ve degassed, put it through malo, racked to clean carboy, degassed again, hit it with sulfites, and let it age. 10-11months later I still have a noticeable bit of carbonization left in the wine. I’m oaking it now, and hoping to bottle right before thanksgiving. Any ideas how I can kill off this carbonization? I’m at the point now where I’m agitating the carboy every other night, and occasionally hitting it with a vac-u-vin. Has anyone ever tried magnetic agitation? Looking for any recommendations that will help make this wine less lively when served. Thanks!

magnetic stirrer

u/nikondork · 4 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

This one.

I use it for both cleaning attys and speed steeping mixes. This unit is a little bit more expensive than some of the other entry models but the price is worth it. For starters, you can set it up to 30 minute cycles. It has an optional degas cycle and its also heated. I haven't seen any other units cheaper or the same price with heat.

When I'm cleaning attys and parts, I use the heat, only water with a single drop or two of dish detergent, 15-20min cycle with a degas cycle before. Gets threads really clean! After the cycle, I remove the basket and give everything a quick rinse with hot water from the tap, just to make sure any traces of soap are rinsed.

When I use it for juice, I use the heat with larger volumes of liquid or just hot water with fewer bottles. Full 30 minute cycle, vigorous shake (by now the VG is very warm and fluid), a 30 minute rest in the hot water, then another 30 minute cycle. I recommend you do this with caps ON. You can do this with caps off, but you need to come up with a way to keep the bottles upright since you need to fill the ultrasonic at a minimal level for it to work properly, they'll end up dancing around and tipping over. You can always let them breathe for a short period after the last cycle. I usually notice about a weeks worth of steep time with most flavors after this method.

u/rcw16 · 4 pointsr/weddingplanning

This is the one I got. Just a note: The research I found said that it works well on diamonds and other hard stones, but if your stone is softer (like an opal) it can damage the stone. Also, if you have a diamond with a lot of inclusions, it can make them bigger.

u/limitedz · 4 pointsr/Homebrewing

Do you ever plan on doing 5 gallon batches? If you have the space it will be more cost effective to just go for a full size keging system. Mini kegs are going to cost you roughly what a new 5 gallon keg will.

That said if it's only a one-off thing you could use some 2 liter bottles and get yourself a co2 tank and regulator and a carbonation cap and force carb that way, it won't be on "tap" but it will be force carbonated.. and you can keep it carbonated if you leave the cap on and top off the bottle with co2 each time you pour from it.

If you have nothing then you'll need a regulator I have this one: (taprite t742hp primary double gauge co2 regulator, brass

A co2 tank, something like this: (5lb co2 tank- new aluminum cylinder with cga320 valve

Some 5/16 tubing l, and a ball lock gas disconnect like this (5/16" gas line assembly - ball lock

And a carbonation cap like this : (stainless carbonation cap counter pressure bottle filling with 5/16" barb,co2 coupling to carbonate soda beer fruit juice water

I also have this regulator for my mobile mini keg set-up: Ultimate CO2 Regulator works with 5 types of CO2 tanks (0-50psi)
It works great and I use it with a soda stream co2 tank which are a little pricey for how much co2 you get but they're convenient and available everywhere. This makes a nice compact system since you don't have the big regulator and big co2 tank.

u/SuperAngryGuy · 4 pointsr/SpaceBuckets

There are no issues with plastic containers- I can only get melting when I try to do it on purpose.

No, these are much higher quality LEDs than found in UFOs and will give off roughly twice the light per watt.

In a five gallon bucket with foil sides and the COB eight inches from the plant, with a Bridgelux Vero 18 at about 10 watts your plants will be at about 500 uMol/m2/sec of light (35,000 lux). This is a really good level for veging.

With 20 watts on the Vero 18 you'll be saturating your plant at 1000 uMol/m2/sec (about 70,000 lux). This is perfect for flowering. You can drive the LED harder but there will be rapid decreasing gains.

If you want to know about building COB grow lights from a competent person then you should check out growmau5's YouTube page. Outside the professional arena and even in it, this person likely knows more about COB LED grow light design than anyone else.

I often use lab power supplies as variable LED drivers. I bought two of these recently to replace some others. If you do much work with LEDs then these sort of power supplies are real time savers.

look up: Vero 18 3500K CRI 80 gen 7 (the Vero 29 costs three times as much but will be even more efficient)

edit- corrected "3800K" mistake

u/RedHawk02 · 4 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

A newbie myself but, as said above, definitely take care when removing the keycaps. The stems are prone to breaking and getting stuck in the switch.


Since you have to take the switches apart in order to swap out the sliders for the Nexus sliders, invest in a cheapo ultrasonic cleaner. That is the one I got and, while not the best, it gets the job done. Get one of these as well.

  1. Take all the switches apart. You should have the slider, the top housing, the spring, the tactile leaf, and the bottom housing with the contact leaf. Some people like to take out the contact leaf from the bottom housing but I like to leave it in.

  2. Clean each group of parts in the ultrasonic cleaner with cool water and 1-2 dental tabs. I use cool water because the water gets pretty warm after 10-15 minutes of cleaning.

  3. Once cleaned, lay them out on something like a napkin separated from each other, place them somewhere where they can stay relatively dust free (otherwise why even clean it) and let them dry for minimum 24 hours. Mine dried quicker but better safe than sorry.


    Since you say the springs are light for your tastes (same for me) you can buy replacement springs. People will warn you about SPRiT because of how he handled things in the past but he's the only person I know of who has Alps replacement springs. For me to truly enjoy these switches, I needed heavier springs so I decided to reach out to SPRiT through his website and hope for the best. I got my first order and my second order from him has already shipped. (Do note that Korea Post took about 35 days to deliver to me and the tracking didn't update at all since it left Korea. This may not be their fault, though, as I later realized I was using a service called Aftership and not Korea Posts website to track my order.)


    I'm no lubing expert but I have lubed some alps using RO59. I've been recommended this lube, as well. The basic gist of lubing goes:

  4. Lube the two sides of the slider.

  5. (Optional) Lube the two sides of the slider that make contact with the tactile leaf and contact leaf. This will likely cause a decrease in tactility.

  6. Lube the rails of the top housing where the slider makes contact.

  7. (Optional) Lube the inside of the slider, where the spring goes mainly.

  8. (Optional) Lube the spring.


    Putting it all back together is pretty simple. If you're patient enough to wait, I'd go ahead and wait for the Nexus GB to ship. If not, Alps switches are able to be opened without desoldering, so you can go ahead and do a build now and replace the slider later.



    I hope I've helped :)
u/squagwallow · 3 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

From what I have read Heated Ultrasonic Cleaners are the most efficient way to speed steep. You don't have to get a heated one, but then you have to switch your juice from a hot bath to the sonic cleaner a few times. I think people run like 3-4 cycles on the sonic cleaner.

But I just got a Milk Frother , and I plan on frothing, heat bath, frothing, heat bath to see if I can get my juice steeped in about 24 hours. I haven't tried it yet though.

Heat bath=boil a pot of water. Let the water sit/cool off for about 10 minutes, then set your open/aerated bottles of juice until the water cools. I can't imagine this would be such a great idea to do with plastic bottles, maybe consider transferring into a mason-style jar or something.

Last batch of juice I made I tried shaking my bottles, then doing 2 heat baths; it doesn't instantly steep, but about 24 hours after the heat bath the consistancy of the juice was that of about 1 week of steeping. So if your working with pre-made juice, this method might be enough to get you a little better flavor and buy you time for the bulk of your supply to steep fully.

Good luck sir!

u/tuctrohs · 3 pointsr/AskEngineers

Used analog scopes on ebay are in the $100 to $200 range, and many are quite good. But Rigol digital scopes are as cheap as $260 and probably easier to use. You can also get a USB scope that uses your computer for the interface and display for I think about $100.

u/goatnapper · 3 pointsr/DIY_eJuice

When you split it, top it off with some [wine preservation spray]( and then close the bottles and seal the cap with a few wraps of teflon tape (grab some at Walmart or Home Depot for a dollar in the plumbing area). Make sure your bottles have the conical tops, also sometimes called vinyl liner, not paper liners. Like these. Don't use drippers to freeze, the rubber stopper area can contract in the freezer and let in moisture.

I use pipettes with my nicotine, you can get them in packs of 100+. The scale is more accurate than the syringes, and the amount you may be off per drop is insignificant.

(Edit, adding more):

  • Once I pull out a bottle of nic, I remove the tape and store it in the fridge until empty.
  • I get my nicotine from Vape Clarity. Decent price, never had an issue.
  • You can get flavorings from lots of places. They are the same flavors that are used in candy, no reason for Indiana to care.
  • I end up making lots of 10ml trial bottles, and only mixing up bigger batches (50ml in my case) once I have the recipe done. Then again, I also make for several friends and coworkers, and they are always full of combos they want to try.
u/Skithy · 3 pointsr/DIY_eJuice

It's way, way easier to mix with 100% PG nicotine solution unless you're going for max VG! Just get some pipettes, if you don't wanna have to clean shit. They're cheap and disposable. Five bucks for 100, free shipping at Amazon.

I've found using eJuiceMeUp, it's just way more simple to calculate crap out using 100% PG nic. Almost all flavours are PG and whatnot.

u/just_some_Fred · 3 pointsr/Warhammer40k

for moving paint around you can use a drinking straw, just dip it into the pot a little, then cover the end with your thumb, move it to the palette. if you're feeling fancy you can get some pipettes

I use about a 1:1 ratio on my palette, and I get a couple hours good use out of it just using a cheap plastic watercolor palette from Michael's. You can also make up a wet palette, I know a lot of folks like these.

for even longer lasting paint, or for wet blending, you can get some acrylic retarder

u/YaGottadoWhatYaGotta · 3 pointsr/DIY_eJuice

Does Nonsterile matter with Pipettes?

I realized it after ordering, it's still sunday for an hour, can cancel, should I though?

u/FlyingSMonster · 3 pointsr/modelmakers

Yeah, I make sure to not shake my bottles, I stir them instead. This keeps paint from accumulating on the top of the bottle cap, preventing it from drying the lid shut as well as preserving the paint longer.

I also buy a ton of these pipettes as well as these medicine cups every few months. I always transfer my paint to a little cup to mix / thin it.

Another tip to extend a paints longevity is to never place thinned paint back into the jar, as it can cause some paints to gel and become useless over time.

u/cheetofoot · 3 pointsr/DIY_eJuice

I bought a "scientific lab clamp" and put it in a cordless drill. Saw it in some intro diy juice vid on YouTube.

One of these: 214F2 Karter Scientific Extension Lab Clamp 3 Prong Single Adjust 10-90mm Jaw

Works pretty well.

u/WojtekAron · 3 pointsr/Drugs

First head over to /r/microdosing to get a more detailed answer or broader answers to microdosing. I'll give it a go though.

So tolerance for LSD is something like after 2 weeks you get back to baseline where 100μg = 100μg. Refer to this. In the case on microdosing, we seem to come to the conclusion that the tolerance effect of such a small dose is incredibly low. So low in fact that daily use for a while will still incur similar effects. Though I'm not sure how long that can last.

To compensate for this it is recommended to have a routine of 3/4 days between the doses, this is mostly to minimise the build of tolerance (no matter how little it is). This works incredibly well for some. You can find the right way for yourself.

We do not know how tolerance to LSD works but in the case of microdosing there is no need to increase doses - if you're going the daily route - as this would increase the perceptual effects which you do not want. Keeping to a set dose also keeps the effects in line with what to expect, avoiding cases of racing thoughts, body temperature fluctuations and other effects. But I recommend not doing this. Go for the every few days and keep the dose similar once your find that sweet spot.

On top of all of that dosing is an important factor so cutting up a tab is not recommended as the tab may not be dosed equally. To get around this using a method called volumetric dosing is advised. Here's a guide on how to do that. Using less distilled water can be done if your use a pipette to dose, one like this for example.

All in all I have to admit I love microdosing. It has helped me out incredibly. I vouch for it and would love the idea to spread. I would caution any person doing it though to keep within their limits and follow a regime they construct themselves or someone has recommended, say Dr Fadiman.

Edit. My link to Dr Fadiman's letter is being flagged for spam. Great. It's at the bottom of this article.

u/im_mrmanager · 3 pointsr/LSD

One ounce is 29.5 ml.

One 250ug tab in 29.5 ml = 8.5ug per ml, which is actually a good microdose volume.

Use a marked dropper like this

u/R_MnTnA · 3 pointsr/microdosing
  1. I would check out FAQ/Wiki in the menu and use this handy calculator

    If your not sure on how much one drop of the full strength liquid LSD is I would estimate it to be 100ug and then dilute it in 20ml of distilled water or vodka or mix. Then just to be on the safe side take 0.5ml only and on a day off from work or any important obligations or responsibilities.

  2. Could last a year for some people, but mine lasted about 8 months.

  3. Leaving it for half a day or maybe even less if you keep mixing it every so often should be fine.

  4. The syringe will work but if you want to take less and just a few drops when you dose then I would get something like this.- Ezy Dose Straight Tip Glass Medicine Dropper (Calibrated) 1 mL
u/baldylox · 3 pointsr/jewelry

If you want to keep your rings clean all the time, you can invest in an inexpensive ultrasonic cleaner. Most of them use a powder-based cleaner that you mix with water. They don't use much water, and the solution will last a long time unless you're cleaning 20 pieces a day. If your well water is too hard, just use bottled water.

Mine was a bit more, but you can purchase a good ultrasonic cleaner for ~$40:

u/loxandchreamcheese · 3 pointsr/Invisalign

Magnasonic. There was one that was like $5 cheaper, but I think I picked this one because it has a timer? I figured $40 is nothing compared to the cost of all of the orthodontics, so I splurged. I use it with 3 minute denture cleaning tabs and it has been incredible. I’m going away this weekend and I am so sad that I will be leaving it behind (I could pack it in my carryon, but that’s a bit much for 2 nights). It works wonders - I swear my trays look as clean as the first day I put them on when I pull them out of the ultrasonic. I do 180-280 seconds usually (it has a timer).

u/HoustonIV · 3 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

First: Soak in cheap rubbing alcohol (remove o-rings first).

Second: Filled with hot water, dish soap and vinegar.

Third: Toothbrush and soapy/vinegar water from ultrasonic cleanser.

Fourth: Empty ultrasonic cleaner and fill with clean, distilled water. Put your rinsed RDA pieces back in the cleaner for max time.

Fifth: Rinse and dry thoroughly.

Edit: spelling... ugh

u/SailorShinyUmbreon · 3 pointsr/weddingplanning

Here’s the one I got. I love it. I use it to clean everything: rings, necklaces, sunglasses, phone cases — basically if it’s small enough and not electronic, I put it in there lol

u/thewishmaster · 3 pointsr/Invisalign

I have this one:

(Not an ad, it was the cheapest one I found at the time that seemed acceptable)

u/InfiniteZer0o · 3 pointsr/Warmachine

I use an ultra sonic jewelry cleaner with gem and jewelry cleaner or simple green. Then just hit it with a tooth brush. Works great.

Watch leaving plastic in simple green too long, eventually it will eat the plastic.

u/paperelectron · 3 pointsr/ArtisanVideos

Ill second the list /u/asr provided, I have exactly the same stuff except for the co2 tank. I bought this 5 pounder for 42 bucks, it costs $10 to fill (for me). When I went to the beverage distributor to fill it they had the same tank, filled... for $40 bucks, lol.

u/heathbarrrr · 3 pointsr/AskWomen

I actually bought a magnasonic jewelry cleaner to use at home for like $35 and it works like a charm! i just bought some cleaning solution to mix in with the water and i clean my rings every couple weeks and they sparkle like they're brand new! jewelry cleaner

u/-Purple-- · 3 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

thanks! this is what I used to clean my caps...Was it worth the wait? nah, prob not but I was impressed how clean they came out of the machine after it was all said and done. I did 0 when it came to scrubbing my caps clean :) just running water over them after the ulrta sonic cleaner had them looking new

u/CoomerThSpooler · 3 pointsr/fountainpens

I used this machine. This USC does its job but I do wish I got one with a programmable timer, instead of one that only runs in 3 minute intervals. I didnt use any cleaner because they didnt need the extra help. All of the pens were inked at some point this semester, and still started immediately. My process was to run the converter and feed under tap water until I didnt see any ink coming out, and then to run it in the USC. Using this process I was able to get all of the sections and converters clear. The reason I picked up a USC was because after cleaning the Prera section with tap water, I could still see ink left over in several pockets and knew it would dry there. About 9 minutes in the USC and it was sparkling clear.

Edit: /u/abraxart and /u/mitch_romley

u/MsYutai · 3 pointsr/fragrance

Definitely have to spray it! Most full-size bottles come with spray-nozzles-- you need to try out the scent the way its meant to be tried (a couple sprays at least)!

I recently transferred a couple sample sets to little spray bottles. I purchased these 5 mL atomizers and a million little pipettes to aid in transfer. Finally, I made little labels for them using a label maker. The atomizers work great and I feel like I can better judge the scents after dousing myself haha.

u/mimafo · 3 pointsr/fountainpens

I bought some of these transfer pipettes and trimmed the end to be wide enough. I then flush my pens with soapy water first (bowl of water with a little dish soap) and then with clean water until it all runs clear. Easy peasy.

Edit: I stand my nib units up leaning on the tip of the nib (just the unit, not the whole pen so there's not a lot of weight on it) so the water runs out. I find the pens dry out faster that way. I absolutely HATE when I fill a pen with ink only to find there was still water in the feed... watery ink writing is a huge buzzkill!

u/BernillaryClanders · 3 pointsr/squirrels

Looks like three in my county so I'll be sure to call tomorrow but cant travel until the afternoon (work).

Based on the info linked, they were all wrinkly too. I just don't know if I gave them enough liquids.

I used something like this:

Each got maybe half to 3/4 of one those (not full, just up the stem), 3 times.

They really haven't moved much since they settled. I'm just not sure if I should do something like try and stimulate or try and feed.

Also, im not sure about the heating. I have a lamp well above them. I have an infrared thermometer thats reading 89f on top of the tshirt that's currently covering them.

It probably wont drop below 75 tonight. I have them on my back porch, safe from any critters and not in the AC

u/Vurve · 3 pointsr/DIY_eJuice

For reference:

As for the mixing equipment, see below:

u/dragontamer5788 · 3 pointsr/AskElectronics

> Answer for New to electronics, where to start?

Everybody learns differently. Some people are theoretical learners, while others are physical learners who need to touch things with their hands to learn anything. And others still are some hybrid between the two. As such, it is very difficult to answer the question "where to start", because there is no one-size fits all solution.

Further complicating the issue is the issue of budget. Not just monetary investment, but time investment as well. No doubt, the best education possible is to simply go to a multi-year university and dedicated multiple years of your life to the trade, but this is more than the typical hobbyist can afford.

Assuming infinite time and money, the ideal learning environment is a lab environment surrounded by high-end, precise and accurate equipment (often costing in the thousands of dollars) with which you can measure, test, and experiment to the heart's desire. For example, accurate variable power supplies that can operate in voltage-mode or current-mode... signal generators to create square, triangle, and sine waves, and a high-end, very accurate Tektronix Oscilloscope so that you can actually see the voltages and currents as they happen. Indeed, this is what your typical lab environment inside a college would be like.

Dedicate yourself to graduate-level college subjects, and you will also get you access to very high-end material, such as scanning electron microscopes, clean-rooms, VLSI integrated circuits, FPGAs and custom PCBs to tie it all together. Mastery of these subjects, aided with state-of-the-art software for simulations will put you into the upper-echleons of world-class electrical engineering.

But learning how to use such complicated equipment is itself a learning curve that takes not only money... but time as well. There are plenty of hobby-level electronics users who make due with both simpler and cheaper equipment.

AA or 9V Batteries provide cheap sources of nearly ideal voltage sources (at least, while the batteries have juice in them). Digital Multimeters can be bought as cheaply as $20... although most people will recommend spending around $100 for a solid precise and accurate multimeter (better accuracy costs more money). Add on $50 to $100 for a breadboard and some typical components (a light bulb, a motor, resistors, capacitors, and some basic chips like a 555 timer or an Op-Amp, and wires to hook it all together), and you'll be well on your way to learning electronics.

Finally, there's the issue of subject material. There are complicated analog components, like building power-supplies, or radios... and then there are complicated digital components like logic and even computers. The two worlds require different math to understand (Discrete mathematics for Digital, Calc3 / Differential Equations for Analog).

There are also software packages to help students learn on the cheap. There are programs that are free for hobbyists, like LTSpice for simulations or Eagle for schematic drawings / PCB layout.


I'm sorry for the long-winded answer, but this is a deep subject with many valid paths forward. This all comes down to the following:

  1. You need to learn some degree of theory to get started.

  2. You can accelerate and/or augment your theoretical learning with software tools such as PSpice. Its a lot cheaper and faster to simulate an effect rather than to actually use real components.

  3. You need physical equipment. Software will never replicate the smell of burning components when that resistor catches on fire for the first time. Some things can only be learned when working in the lab.


    Here are a list of recommended books:
    (Someone else: make a list of good beginner books, I dunno of any).

    There are also free online courses:

  • MIT's 6.002: This is the first course taught at MIT, and all of the video lectures, exams, and class material has been posted online for free.

  • All About Circuits: This messy webpage actually holds a lot of good information about circuits and electronics. I find that paid books are better, but if you don't want to spend any money, this is a very complete reference.


    The primary software you need as a beginner is a "SPICE" simulator. You can place components like resistors, capacitors and inductors and the software will simulate the components.

  • Partsim is a free website that can simulate your basic electrical components.

  • LTspice: Linear Technology wants you to buy their stuff, so they made a free program that accurately simulates their chips. Can't argue with the results or this marketing scheme though, free software is extremely good and useful for the beginner.

    Tools and Hardware

  • Uggghhhh. I'm tired. Work in progress, will continue writing later.


  • Finish First Draft
  • Edit down my wordy language to be shorter
  • Come up with good beginner books (paid books generally are easier to read and are better edited)
  • Figure out some decent beginner kits: both digital world (something Arduino based with a decent free web-lessons), and analog world (opamps and stuff).
  • Work out a set of beginner tools, in order of "cost-effectiveness" (Ex: Digital Multimeter, cheap USB Oscilloscope, etc. etc.)
u/dryh2o · 3 pointsr/shittyrobots

It's this one. I got it early this year. It's worked great for me.

u/wolfcry0 · 3 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

I have a Rigol DS1054Z and it is a really nice piece of equipment, it's not overly expensive at $400 but may be complete overkill for automotive work (I'm not sure what kind of signals you'll be looking at).

Are cars a lot of lower voltage logic signals? Or is it a mix with a lot of analog stuff as well?

u/mombutt · 3 pointsr/MushroomGrowers
u/Afoekon · 2 pointsr/mead

I just started using kegs and it has made everything easier. I built a keezer recently, bottling everything became massive chore, and carbonating is easier.

And as far as SNA, I never do that, I've tried it and never really tasted a difference and it's a hassel. I bought a cheap stir plate and start my yeast a day before and that seemed to make much more of a difference. This is the one I got and don't worry about buying a stir bar if you get it, the stir plate comes with one. Magnetic Stirrer Magnetic Mixer with stir bar (No Heating) Max Stirring Capacity: 3000ml

If you get kegs try to buy used ones, I bought all mine used, they really don't fo bad you just have to change seals from time to time or the posts.

u/pokemonfriends · 2 pointsr/synthesizers

It's one of these just sitting on top of the dx7 I think. Cheap as fuck but definitely not pretty. I think its the red pcb clashing with the dx7 pastels that is problematic.

u/LsDmT · 2 pointsr/microgrowery

Get an EC meter and PH meter and just feed at 1.5 EC your plants will tell you if they are lacking something and you can address then. If you have a solid nute base and maybe some calmag you should have no problems

Base Nute

With the above base nute follow the lucas formula and you will have above average results with good genetics and paired with a hempy bucket you will kill it

u/BicepBandito · 2 pointsr/steroids

This is the one I use. With a mag stirrer you shouldn’t need any heat at all. Especially for standard concentrations. It’s flat out amazing. Takes all the work out of it. No sitting there stirring with a glass rod for a half hour. Just set it and walk away. Come back a half hour later and you have freshly made gear all in perfect solution.

u/CyphersFallen · 2 pointsr/knifemaking

I use a regulated power supply. Similar to this:

You want to make sure to use DC (Direct Current) and not an AC(Alternating Current. The regulated power supply lets you adjust the current and give more control. I use 5VDC for Carbon Steels and 12-25VDC for Stainless. I put the Positive on they item I want to etch and the Negative on a bolt with rubber bands holding a cotton balls on it. I use just salt water. Always keep it moving around when you are etching. I finish with a brass wire wheel to clean up. I get my stencils made from a local vinyl shop. They work great for me.

u/Coord1nat3 · 2 pointsr/shrimptank

Test your tap waters ph,tds, gh and kh. Here are shrimp parameters . If your tap water isn’t ideal I would recommend doing the ro water with a remineralizer.

I don’t think stratum is worth is for neocaridina shrimp since they require kh in there water. The kh will run the buffering real quick. For neocaridina I think sand is the best substrate.

I would highly recommend looking at different types of mosses there’s a lot of very cool ones besides java moss.

u/absentwonder · 2 pointsr/GrowingMarijuana

I apologize for not linking. That was poor Reddit etiquette.

Apera Instruments AI209 PH20...

Professional TDS ppm Conductivity...

u/poprockcide · 2 pointsr/HotPeppers

Check out this video by chilli chump. Basically, he makes a mash by blending the cayenne with some salt and ferments it for 3 weeks. Using mason jars with airlocks. Some people use a salt brine but he doesnt. Then after it's fermented he adds equal parts vinegar and blends it using a Magnetic Stirrer with stir bar for three more weeks to emulsify the sauce.

Don't think he adds Xanthan gum but a lot of people do. He made his own stir plate by attaching magnets to a computer fan. He linked a video on how he make that.

u/hex4def6 · 2 pointsr/diyelectronics

Do you think there's a market for this sort of thing? Like, if you were to sell the equivalent for $75, do you think there's enough people that would buy it to make it worth the time? Thinking about whether it would be worth the effort to make up a little version of this :)

I would be curious to see what the chip # is, as well as the 3-pin part on the side (under the grey heatsink putty).

I have a feeling what that active circuitry does is actually act as a constant current regulator to charge up the caps. The problem you will have with so much capacitance is getting a massive inrush when you first connect the power supply. Ie, the caps will look like you shorted the power supply until they reach the operating voltage. The power supply probably won't like that.

So, having said that, to answer your question about capacitance: You can try experimenting.
To start with, it looks like they have a 2200uF cap + 6 of whatever those other things are (still assuming they're flat pack caps, but they could be something else). My feeling is that they're probably some lower value to deal with some of the higher frequency components.

I would buy a selection of beefy caps, and just start putting them in parallel with the power supply. Make sure they're rated to be at least 16V!

Instead of the constant current circuit, you could have a toggle switch (make sure it's rated to at least 1.5A) in parallel with a 1-ohm power resistor.

When you want to connect power, you have the switch in the open position, then connect the power supply. Wait maybe 10 seconds, then flip the switch to the bypass / shorting position to remove the resistor from the circuit. At that point, you can use the camera.

Something like this:

EDIT: screwed up on power jack, more like this:

EDIT2: You can also buy constant voltage / constant current power supplies. Lab power supplies are an example. They won't care if you short the output; they'll happily limit the current to whatever they're set to. Actually, most wall adapters have a similar "anti-short" protection of some sort built in, so you might be able to get away with not using the switch / resistor trick.

You could buy something like this:

u/240strong · 2 pointsr/shrimptank

I've heard a lot on here, and online, it's pretty common for your first batch to die off, the key is if you have babies or the first batch has babies in your water, if the water is in the acceptable parameters that you say, will be born and used to your water and will thrive. I just recently started and my first batch all died I got from my LFS then I orders 10 from shrimp farm .com and it came with 2 extra, and I almost didn't notice it came with like a dozen, must've been born a day or two before shipping or maybe even on the way, baby shrimp smaller than a grain of rice. All of them are still going strong and I have 3 berried females right now. Of that batch I've lost 3 or 4 adults.

Edit: also saw your looking at getting a TDS meter off Amazon. Be selective in what you choose, I got a couple on there I returned because they were giving me extremely adverse / fluctuating readings all the time. You want to make sure you get one that has ATC, Automatic temperature calibration, or something like that.

I got this one and verified it still my school chemistry lab testing their tap water, RO water, and DI water and compared it with their readings and it was pretty darn close.

Professional TDS ppm Meter | Digital Test Pen Combines EC, TDS & Temp (3-in-1) | 0-9999 ppm & ± 2% Accuracy | Quick and Easy Testing For Hydroponics, Ro System, Pool, Aquarium, Spa and Water Hardness

It's out of stock right now it looks like through Amazon? May be available through other sellers or sites ?

u/Strel0k · 2 pointsr/Hydroponics

Bok choi has been the easiest thing for me to grow by far so there's definitely something off in your system.

Having a pH pen and an EC pen is pretty much critical to diagnosing nutrient solution problems. This is the pH meter I have, which is kind of mid-tier but comes with calibration solution. Also pick up some storage solution as it will reduce how often you have to recalibrate the pen vs keeping it dry. EC meter you can go cheap on, I use this one and get good results.

u/keitare · 2 pointsr/Homebrewing

I got a flask and a stir plate off amazon for under 60 bucks. This is the stir plate I got and works well with either 1L or 2L at the slow speeds used for a yeast starter.

u/novel_yet_trivial · 2 pointsr/AskElectronics

Personally I'd start very small, like $50. I just put one of these together and it works well enough for home projects. I would not buy any specialists tool until there is a specific need for it.

u/robbob2112b · 2 pointsr/AskElectronics

The cheap scope on a chip would work for this.... any number of them on amazon and they are fine for basic stuff with ardino or rpi

u/Gecko23 · 2 pointsr/3Dprinting

For testing something this simple, you could probably get the answer with something dirt cheap like a DSO138 Kit , $25 unassembled, $30-40 assembled. There's also a 'bigger brother' versions, the DSO202 or DSO221 which are still <$100 assembled.

u/kylejacobson84 · 2 pointsr/Homebrewing

Since you're looking at Amazon reviews when considering your purchase, I found this guy for a decent price with 4.5 stars on Amazon. I do not currently own a stir plate, but when I worked at a nanobrewery (only making one-barrel batches), we used one. It definitely made things more efficient.

Best of luck in your brewing adventures!

u/WatermelonMannequin · 2 pointsr/synthesizers

It's not a synth, but this DIY oscilloscope is only $20, and you can order them with the SMD parts presoldered. In case you don't settle on a DIY synth, you can get a prebuilt one and this guy for soldering fun!

u/blackg0at · 2 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

I've been eyeballing this one for awhile. I've never had an ultrasonic before so I don't know much about it other than it has the same specs as the others with a bigger tray. I've pretty much got my wife sold on it since she can clean her jewelry with it too.

u/deloreantrails · 2 pointsr/fountainpens

Something like this

One of the best fountain pen related purchases you'll make.

u/[deleted] · 2 pointsr/reloading

In our lab we used this for years day in day out for metallic sample mount prep in between polishing stages. Use a little plastic tray to keep the brass/sample off the piezo (so you don't send the energy back into the transducer) and it will last a long time. It's kinda small compared to a media vibrator but I'm never in a hurry. Don't over load it, less is more in a $80 sonicator but switching to hot water for the sake of solubility did wonders for throughput.

u/cmdrgrudgelord · 2 pointsr/mobilerepair

I use this one

Works great. For water damaged electronics I mix denatured alcohol and distilled water to 80 percent. Finish with a quick dip into pure denatured alcohol and dry under a heat lamp.

I dont charge bench fees. If I bring the phone back to life I charge about 40% of the retail value of the phone.

If the phone got wet and still works but they want to be sure it doesn't get damaged further I charge a flat $45 for a quick teardown, scrub and wash.

I clean jewelry and stuff for customers free of charge while they wait for their phones. I use a different mix depending on material.

The only parts you should be putting in the USC is the motherboard or a daughter board with no microphone/speakers or plastic bits on it. You can wash frames if they are stripped of everything. A hot USC bath will fuck up all the adhesives so be prepared to strip those before hand and replace them.

USC cleaners can be harsh. Dont make the mistake of putting plastics in it. The heat and chemicals will do strange things to them.

u/fatangaboo · 2 pointsr/AskElectronics

I use a Kendal from Amazon. Works great.

u/k31advice96 · 2 pointsr/ar15

I bought this and it was fine for cleaning the BCG. You really need good solution for it to work well, something like Simple Green Pro HD is amazing compared to just soap and water.

u/project_twenty5oh1 · 2 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

I went on a little shopping spree for my DIY/rebuildable stuff. Picked up the following:

5 glass beakers, 50-1000ml
4 oz amber glass boston round bottles, pack of 12
2x pack of 6 2oz amber bottles w/droppers
2x 2pack 8oz amber bottles
[labels for bottles] (
100count transfer pipettes
2 10 packs of 5ml blunt tip syringes
Heated ultrasonic cleaner (for quick steeping)

100ft A1 32 AWG kanthal
100ft A1 30 AWG kanthal
100ft A1 28 AWG kanthal
12ft 2mm braided hollow Ekowool
Pair of locking hemostats
butane pencil torch (for torching ekowool)
This genius little invention - everyone should buy this, it was like six bucks

other than that, a couple anyvape mini davide glass clearos because the protank 2 group buy I organized will likely not have a replacable drip tip, and I need at least 2 mini glass tanks that can take my bds60 from captivape.

i need me a fucking workshop, not sure where I'm going to put all this stuff...

u/SomeKindOfOctopus · 2 pointsr/electronics

You can get a similar Rigol DSO for about $400

u/qazme · 2 pointsr/DIY_eJuice

This is the one I bought ($90): iSonic P4810

Very large basket, heater (150 degree tested!), degause, up to 30 minutes on the timer - can run it for an hour without it needing a break. Quiet as well. Been a really nice performer over the last couple of months - very strong too.

Fit's 30ml in it just fine - could probably manage 8-10 bottles with ease(could fit a lot more if you lay them down - the lid hit them in the middle, I normally do 6 at a time.

u/Fromthe802 · 2 pointsr/NFA

This is what I use on my obsidian 45. isonic P4810. It has a 30 minute timer that I run twice in a row with a 1:1 simple green/distilled water solution.

Just a heads up, the plastic basket that comes with it broke after 2 uses and the company considers it an "accessory" that isn't covered by warranty.

u/Yoyochan · 2 pointsr/SkincareAddiction

You could get some plastic pipettes to transfer small amounts of the oil. I use these for depositing scented oils in my oil diffuser so that I don't accidentally use too much.

You could also consider transfering the oil to bottles with dropper tops.

u/SvedishFish · 2 pointsr/Warhammer40k

Yeah, Lahmian medium is great. That will probably work better than the Vallejo TBH.

EDIT: if you're airbrushing with GW paints, get yourself some of these:

Makes it a lot easier to get the right proportions of paint/thinner when you can measure. I haaaate the idea of literally pouring paint into the airbrush cup.

u/iFight4Pi · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

This is the advice that /u/gzprime gave me:
>I like the Rit Dymore (has to be the Dyemore version) for a few different reasons. The number one reason is convenience, it is pre-mixed and there for ready to go. It has far less warnings and caustic information than the iDye Poly. I find the iDye Poly hard to blend in small batches and have been having better results as of late withe Rit Dyemore.

>I'm pretty comfortable with dyeing keycaps. You can see some of my work here: ( You'll want the Rit Dyemore that comes in a bottle, premixed in the black color. I would use disposable pipettes to measures 1-3ml of dye for the initial bath/shade (

>If they're PBT caps, you can bring the water to soft boil, add the caps and then just babysit them until you get the shade you're looking for. Then I'd use the pipette to add additional dye for the next shade and babyit that as well, repeating the process until you've got all the shades you're looking for.

>I'd also strongly suggest starting off with a series of test caps so you can get the timing, concentration, and process down pat. Feel free to let me know if you have any questions and good luck!

If you're looking to do a gradient type dye with one color like what I did, I would strongly recommend using both as little water as possible and as little dye as possible for your first shade. The longer the cap is in the dye bath the more even and consistent the color, but the darker it gets. Use lots of test caps to figure out the exact length of time to consistently get the shade you're looking for before proceeding. And I've found tapping the strainer up and down so that the caps jiggle around in the dye bath without being lifted out of it helps to make the color look more consistent.

u/paranoid_tweak · 2 pointsr/Stims

these work too

yeah boofing shard is glorious!

I don't really swallow my meth because it's kind of a waste imo. I only did it once on accident my first time smoking crystal and I didn't melt it in the pipe so i inhaled everything i packed and swallowed it. That fucked with me because I had to stay up the next day because there was no chance of me getting sleep that day.

Meth has a strong burning taste i'd rather shove it up my ass than hold it in my mouth.

u/compto35 · 2 pointsr/beards


u/greenighs · 2 pointsr/HaircareScience

I use about three big droppers full of Trader Joe's tea tree oil (~9 ml) in a whole bottle of Suave Naturals conditioner (I usually use coconut, but I'm going to buy one of the no-protein ones when I run out), and shake it up. I massage a huge handful into my scalp and comb it through my hair (fine, curly, not very porous) and rinse with cool water, and my hair stays fresh smelling and soft, not greasy or flat. Give it a try, but maybe only mix a few drops of tea tree oil into a half cup of conditioner to start with, just in case you don't like it. You don't want to ruin a whole bottle of conditioner if the tea tree oil doesn't work for you!

I also use a tiny bit tea tree oil in the spray gel I use for styling, to keep it fresh smelling. It's a pretty versatile essential oil!

u/twisted_dick · 2 pointsr/Vaping

Hey man, I would love to help you quit smoking and didn't notice the first time I commented that you didn't have any experience with vaping. So I'm going to try to put together a list here of what you need to do to start vaping for very little money.

  1. A mod. I am suggesting this mod because it is very simple and fairly cheap.

    This is another option for you.

    I love my Icare, but you will need to use high (24-36) mg ejuice with it, whereas with the ego you would need 12-24 mg/ml.

  2. Eliquid making basics.

    OPTIONAL: flavoring. If you want flavoring just ask in a reply I'll let you know what to get based on your tastes, but it's not necessary and you're trying to go cheap.

    This is the recipe for making flavorless, 12 mg juice.

    You can make an account at that site and adapt that recipe to be higher or lower nicotine if you want.

    I know this seems a lot more expensive than the Ryo cigarettes, but trust me, this makes like a year or two worth of liquid and the mods I suggested have really cheap coils. Please believe me, this is worth every penny of the investment, you will never regret it. If you need help with mixing your first batch of eliquid, go to r/diy_ejuice and look at the new mixer thread in the sidebar. If you have any questions don't hesitate to ask me, but comment it cause I don't get message notifications on my phone app.
u/jeepsterjk · 2 pointsr/DIY_eJuice

I like your DIY dedication!

Also, i just found what i was talking about in the comment above...

"Claw-like clamp"

..I wonder how well this thing would work...

u/dogcatchickenlemur · 2 pointsr/RCSources

Yeah. Like I said I only know what I've read and I've never done it. So you probably wanna talk to someone who has before you end up potentially wasting your product or something worse. But heres some links that'll help

u/clax1227 · 2 pointsr/1P_LSD

In an amber or cobalt glass bottle... Not like this.

But something akin to that. You'll have to get a calibrated medicine dropper... They have amber glass bottles with these already included, on the lid to the original bottle...but I can't find that right now.

After that, just avoid direct heat & sunlight exposure... LABEL WHAT IT IS, AND THE CONCENTRATION PER ML...

Uh... There isn't much literature about volumetrically dosing with tabs, at least the actual dissolving... But I'd say just play it safe and shake it up a good few times within a 24-hour period before using.

u/Anangel84 · 2 pointsr/Moissanite

Ultra sonic cleaner - - and a touch of dawn. Blindingly beautiful when they come out ❤️

u/funk_wagnall · 2 pointsr/AskEngineers

I work with ultrasonic plastic welders and cutters. You can find welding quality ultrasonic stacks on ebay for relatively low prices (these are 700W approximately). Here. Here. Here.

You can also try to buy crystal stacks directly. These are usually designed for use in ultrasonic cleaning baths (50W approximately). Here. Here.

Alternatively you can try buying a consumer grade ultrasonic stain remover Here or an ultrasonic cleaning bath Here

Also, good luck, at least the systems I work with are irritatingly sensitive, especially when it comes to the design of the knife or tool.

u/Papacrown · 2 pointsr/wicked_edge

I bought my fiancé a ultrasonic jewelry cleaner for her ring from amazon and I stuck my month old Merkur in there and it came out brand new after about 5 mins.

My DE is usually almost completely white with soap scum after every shave, and I even rinse it with alcohol once I'm done.

Here's the link, we used about a teaspoon of mild dish detergent to go with it.

Magnasonic MGUC500 Professional Ultrasonic Jewelry & Eyeglass Cleaner With Digital Timer

Also, my GF's ring looks like new after putting it in there.

u/canttakemyusername · 2 pointsr/RepLadies

I have a Sonic jewelry cleaner from Amazon that works wonders!

u/Basketframe · 2 pointsr/Invisalign

Not sponsored. I love this thing - nightly 3 minute clean.

Magnasonic Professional...

u/FluffyUnlinked · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

I used this one, and it got the job done pretty well. Usually, ultrasonic cleaners that are sufficient enough for casual use are under $50, while more "professional grade" or "industrial" ones will cost more than that. As for the process, it's tedious, but simple. I disassembled the switches until I got something looking like this, then I organized the parts into piles. I then washed each respective part pile by putting them in the cleaner and submerging it in water, and adding a very little amount of dish soap (about a quarter of a teaspoon). I ran the parts through the cleaner twice. To rinse them off, use distilled water so there are no water impurities left on the parts after the water evaporates. Finally, I waited for the parts to dry, I click modded them, and I put them back together.

Also, I'll head to the /r/olkb question thread to inquire about the Preonic case.

u/Cilreve · 2 pointsr/modelmakers
u/SmashFucker · 2 pointsr/Warhammer40k

.. by Jove, I think I am. I've heard of folks using brake CLEANER to strip models, hence my knee jerk reaction.

You can get an Ultrasonic on Amazon for like $40.

It's also really good at cleaning uh smoking paraphernalia, not that I would know.

u/andrewcb88 · 2 pointsr/Nootropics

I am going to buy this one
Been meaning to order it but keep slacking. I got a whole chart ready to check out with the machine plus a bunch of supplements. Going to order today.

u/nopaleslocos · 2 pointsr/Invisalign

Got the Magnasonic and can’t recommend it enough. I love it and you can choose the amount for the cycles (shortest is 3 min) Magnasonic Professional Ultrasonic Jewelry Cleaner with Digital Timer for Eyeglasses, Rings, Coins (MGUC500)

u/Kaldaus · 2 pointsr/Vaping101

This is an ultrasonic jewelry cleaner its under 30$ and works really well, you can use this to clean all your vape stuff and it takes very little effort. I highly suggest looking into getting one, it will save you a LOT of time and effort, and really works a lot better anyway, best of luck to you and happy vaping :)

u/account_poubelle · 2 pointsr/france

J'ai essaye un nettoyeur a ultrason de ce genre. C'est impressionnant toute la merde qui se detache d'on ne sait ou et que tu vois naviguer a la surface en quelques secondes.

u/robeschi · 2 pointsr/fountainpens

I got this one a few weeks ago and it makes a big difference in the amount of time I spend cleaning pens. Not only am I spending less time cleaning them, but more of them are cleaned more often because it's so easy to do.

u/Outlawtadpole · 2 pointsr/Gunpla

I have and really like this one.

u/Divinorum76 · 2 pointsr/Vaping

I use this Magnasonic US cleaner. It does a decent job but I can't recommend it. I've had to repair it once (because of this!) and it is limited to 480sec (8min) maximum cycle. I usually run it two or three times for cleaning atty's.

u/vinnycordeiro · 2 pointsr/fountainpens

It says that it have just 3 minutes cycles, that's too low. I'd recommend a cleaner with at least 8 minutes cycle, like this one: , which isn't that much expensive after all.

u/MountSwolmore · 2 pointsr/steroids

This was from DL:

You guys convinced me to home brew. Especially after I just did some math on what my latest $2k purchase would get me.

Putting together the list, will be refining as I learn more.

u/Sens420 · 2 pointsr/DIY_eJuice

I believe that a heated plate is essential in the speed steeping process (which I assume is what you're going for) in which case I doubt you're going to find one under $100. I believe this one is the go-to for most people here. There are some "lightly used" ones on amazon as well for a few bucks cheaper.

u/Justin429 · 2 pointsr/DIY_eJuice

I recently sent a pretty big email list to my brother, so I'm just copy/pasting out of the email. Before you ask why I'm recommending 12 packs of the beakers, it's because they break, and you WILL break them. Buy this stuff:

Scilogex 86143101 Model MS-H280-Pro LED Circular-Top Digital Magnetic Hot Plate Stirrer with 5.3" Diameter Ceramic Coated Plate, 110V - I'm not sure why, but when you use this link, it takes you to a non-amazon supplier. Click the link to buy from other sellers that offer prime shipping. It's $60 cheaper.

Spinpak Magnetic Stir Bar Assortment with Pivot Ring (Pack of 6)

Glass Beakers, 50ml Pack of 12

Glass Beakers, 100ml Pack of 12

Edit: Also, I don't turn the heater on until I've finished adding all ingredients except nicotine, but the entire time, I'm running the stirrer. Once all ingredients excluding nicotine are in, I then set the hotplate to 80c, and run the mix for 90 minutes. If you have beakers that have a cap, use the cap to capture vapor instead of letting it escape in to the atmosphere. If you buy the beakers I linked, you'll need to cover them. I use plastic wrap with a very small rubber band (like for orthodontic braces.)

Edit 2: Before heat is applied, I'm stirring at 200 rpm. Once the solution is up to temperature, I increase to between 450 - 700 rpm depending on the viscosity of the liquid I've created. You'll have to play around with the speed until you arrive at a speed that is not causing the liquid to spin out to the sides so much that the magnetic pill is halfway out of the solution.

Edit 3: I have sacrificial magnetic pills in each of my bottles of nicotine. When I take them out of the freezer, they go directly on the stirrer. NO HEAT. Just leave the cap on and stir for a while.

Edit 4: Before you balk at the $200 price tag of the stirrer, consider this. My ADV is POET Amaretto Nite Cap. It's $22 a bottle. I go through a bottle in a little less than 3 days. This stirrer costs the same as 9 bottles. A bottle of DIY juice costs approximately $1 to make. Do the math.

u/Eisenstein · 2 pointsr/AskElectronics

For scope: get a used tek on craigslist

For function generator: this kit

For iron: Hakko 888

You probably want a bench PSU as well: Korad 3005D

You need safety gear too!

u/marshray · 2 pointsr/AskElectronics

This is not a recommendation, just some examples of what exists on the low end for bench supplies (off-the-shelf in the US):

KORAD KD3005D Precision Variable Adjustable 30V, 5A DC Linear Power Supply

That's a single output channel for $85.

I have something very similar to Triple Linear Variable DC Power Supply, Adjustable 30V/5A. There are many lookalikes. That's two adjustable channels, plus a fixed 5V (which I never use) for $180.

When working with a cheap supply, I:

  • don't leave it on unattended or overnight
  • always disconnect the load before turning the power switch on or off.
u/FullFrontalNoodly · 2 pointsr/electronics

You would be much better off with something like this:

u/ModernRonin · 2 pointsr/AskElectronics

You can probably get that model cheaper somewhere else, BTW. I just linked to the first place I could find it.

There are also even less expensive choices that are still quite good quality, though you won't get quite as much current. For example, buy two of these:

u/rouing · 2 pointsr/PlantedTank

My 50G on this 5lb tank lasts 1 year to 1.5 years.

5lb co2 Tank- New Aluminum Cylinder with CGA320 Valve

u/floodingthestreets · 2 pointsr/PlantedTank

Fluval sells this simple kit. It does get expensive replacing their specialized cartridges, but it's a good place to start if you're only ready to get your toes wet.

If you want to go bigger, it'll cost more upfront, but is cheaper to maintain.

Amazon Shopping list for CO2 under $200:

Cheap Regulator. There are better/nicer/higher quality ones out there. This one is cheap and okay.

Drop Checker


Check Valve

CO2 tubing

Thread tape

Adjustable wrench

5lb cylinder less than $15 to fill at gas supply store

u/Elhazar · 2 pointsr/Aquariums

Why would you go for a shitty paintball setup when you could have really high quality two-stage regulator for 15£≈20$ more, not includimg a CO2-cylinder?

Another option with only a single-stage regulator, this is prone to a end-of-tank-dump, but you can read the fillimg status on the second manometer

Simply get your CO2-cylinder locally. Or from Amazon

edit: To expand on this: Both setups paintball setups are bad. The pressure regulator that fits on a piantball-cylinder does not have a manometer to measure the pressure inside the bottle, so the end-of-tank-dump will likely happen, because you have no way to anticipate it.

IMO: Go for the dual-stage system. No worries about end-of-tank-dumps and a system that will last your whole life as aquarist.

u/theferrit32 · 2 pointsr/CGPGrey

Yeah there's a discount if you return the canister.

Or you could probably buy in bulk:

I wish Soda Stream them self just sold larger canisters so I don't need to change it out so often. Would be cheaper for them and for me too due to marginal cost scaling.

u/Ksp-or-GTFO · 2 pointsr/DIY

So here we go,

First off a Danby 4.4 Cu Ft fridge, something like this. I got this off of some one on craigslist for a $100. I tried to talk them down but some one had informed them that the fridge was valuable to home brewers.

The tap tower was purchased on amazon.

The line connections were also purchased there, since the ones that came on the tower were incorrect for the five gallon kegs.

The temperature controller was also purchased on amazon. Really amazon was my go to.

Here is the CO2 tank I anticipate buying. I haven't really picked out a regulator yet.

u/SudoPoke · 2 pointsr/PlantedTank

I've gone the DIY c02 route and it is just not worth it. You can buy a regulator and 5lb tank off amazon for like 120$ and that will set you up for a year. Then it's like 15$ per refill. You can dial the c02 to whatever level your tank needs. IMHO I'd get pressurized c02 just so I don't have to deal with algae problems.

The number of hours spent refilling soda bottles, growing yeast, cleaning, dealing with c02 swings and no precise control with very very little benefit to show for it. Easily cost more than 120$ in time, effort and supplies.



u/ptrckfrd · 2 pointsr/anchorage

I'm glad you said something because I wouldn't have known anything about this. I'm using a very small 5lb gas cylinder like this. Do you think Air Liquide would have any concern about this tank? I was planning on putting it in the back seat of my 4runner..

u/ChantzNhell · 2 pointsr/PlantedTank

Ferts -
Co2 Regulator -
5lb Co2 tank - Co2 diffuser -
Bubble counter -
Co2 Drop Checker - Co2 tubing and check valve -
Co2 Drop Checker Solution -

That should be everything. I would look into EI dosing too. Especially if you're going with dry ferts. You'll have to find a place near you that can fill the Co2 tank. I get mine filled at Beer Depot. Any home brewery store will have the equipment necessary to refill a 5lb Co2 tank. Welding stores also refill Co2 tanks. If you're really luck, you may have an awesome LFS that refills tanks too. If I missed anything, or if you have any more questions, please let me know. =)

u/fratdaddyZC · 2 pointsr/MechanicalKeyboards

You could probably get away with just doing everything mentioned, but just using a Tupperware container and gently shaking it every 10-20 minutes or so within an hour of soaking with the denture tablets. Ultrasonic cleaners are pretty cheap though, especially compared to HP switches:

u/pnutbutterjellyfine · 2 pointsr/Invisalign

This is the one I bought and it works great; There are many on Amazon like it. I use 1/2 tablet of denture cleaner (I use target brand) in the ultrasonic cleaner morning and night.

u/smokey5604 · 2 pointsr/Vaping

They aren't that expensive, bought mine for 30 bucks and works like a charm. Here's the Amazon link

u/Machostallion · 2 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

I just got a magnasonic on Amazon. It was this one

Right about $35. I just opened it up last night. It seems well built but I don't have anything to compare it to. I haven't run any coils through it yet but it did clean the jewelery that I tested it out with. This one has the auto 3 minute timer that someone mentioned. So if you want it to run longer, you have to press the On button again after it shuts off.

u/station_nine · 2 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

Vodka or rubbing alcohol. Or denatured alcohol. It may dry the o-rings out some, but otherwise you'll be good to go.

May also want to give a cheap ultrasonic cleaner a try. I used distilled water in that to clean everything. Works pretty well.

u/ferdemented · 2 pointsr/Homebrewing

For those of you with Prime, another very random deal that'll save you tons of star san:

I brew way too much - in fact I'm brewing right now - and a 32 oz bottle of star san has lasted me years. I still have about 10 oz left. 6ml per gallon, I tend to make a quart at a time.

u/privatecaboosey · 2 pointsr/AsianBeauty

I ordered these in October. I've been very pleased with them.

u/HumidNut · 2 pointsr/rimfire

You may be overthinking it a tad. Unless Ruger has done something remarkable with machining tolerances (and I'll bet they haven't) there's not much I do with my suppressed MKII's than dribble some of my powder solvent of choice down the receiver and scrub/wipe with cotton 3" shotgun patches. It cleans the breech-face to new, and I then have a clean gun.

I clean via the ejection port, and the underside opening.

I use the cheapest plastic pipettes that are sold on amazon, (link for reference point only, I think I paid $4 for 100 of them) to squirt the solvent where it needs to go, let it sit, then use 3" cotton patches (12ga shotgun patches) for general cleaning, again, whatever cotton patches are on sale @ Midway, or LGS or whatever, and $0.99 bamboo skewers (your local grocery store, pack of 100) to get the patches where they need to go.

The extractor groove, well, that's a twist with a solvent soaked patch via bamboo skewer and I call it a day. I don't get much crud out of that.

Other than that, the rest of the gun gets sprayed with either:

  1. Non-Chloronated Brake cleaner from Walmart or your favorite auto-parts store, its the same stuff as aerosol gun scrubber except that its regularly on-sale at the auto-store for like $2 a can. I just blast the shit out of the frame. Wear eye-pro when doing it, brake cleaner in the eyeholes isnt fun......

  2. more gun solvent soaked patches/rags.

    Once done, I wipe it down (everything internal and external) with the aforementioned 3" shotgun patch with your favorite gun oil (the brake cleaner strips ALL grease/oil away), and I call it a day.

    There isnt much left after that, for me, at least, unless I do a white-glove test.
u/BeneDiagnoscitur · 2 pointsr/fountainpens

I never fill my pens directly from the bottle and over decades I've never had a bottle of ink go funky. "Disposable" 3mL plastic pipettes will last for months at a time if you flush them out with water and cost just a few cents each. It keeps your fingers unstained and your ink uncontaminated.

u/naturalorange · 2 pointsr/Skookum

I've got this one, works well enough, no complaints. Plenty of power for charging up some lithium cells.

Tekpower TP3005T Variable Linear DC Power Supply, 0 - 30V @ 0 - 5A with Alligator Cable and Power Cord,Upgraded TP3005D,HY3005D, Mastech

u/netmagi · 2 pointsr/ECE

I know theres not much love for the cheap import stuff in this thread, but i have this one, and its been verrry good to me for the price:

Tekpower TP3005T Variable Linear DC Power Supply, 0-30V @ 0-5A with Alligator Test Leads (110V Input)

u/nikk4s · 2 pointsr/AskElectronics

Here is the one that I use. It's heavy, but works pretty well for me.

u/norsethunders · 2 pointsr/electronics

This one had good reviews when I bought it and hasn't burned down my house in the last 11 months! $80, if that's "inexpensive" to you.

u/Yelneerg · 2 pointsr/AskElectronics

You are going to want to balance tools and parts.

TOOLS (must haves)

  • Multimeters (At least two, I suggest starting with one cheapo ($5-$10) and one in the $30-$50 range)
  • Variable regulated power supply with current limiting (Skip the cheap/dangerous chinese crap and get a used HP/Agilent/Keysight one off ebay like this or this.)
  • Breadboards (several)
  • Jumper wires
  • Wire strippers and cutters
  • Decent soldering Iron ($50-$100) (DO NOT CHEAP OUT ON THIS)
  • Desoldering pump and/or wick (The ctrl-z of the soldering world)
  • Heat shrink tubing for sealing connections (Especially if you are going to be doing outdoor stuff)
  • Microcontrollers (I suggest starting with an Arudino Uno since it has the largest amount of online support material, you could get an Uno kit, any of them will be fine)
    TOOLS (eventually)
  • Logic Analyzer (Let's you see the logic signals in your circuit which is super helpful for debugging, I have a bitscope micro which is decent, but the software kinda sucks and is more than just a logic analyzer)
  • A function generator (variable voltage and frequency for sine, square and triangle waves) (Again I suggest used off ebay, something like this.)
  • Oscilloscope (a really amazing tool for actally seeing what is going on in your circuit)
    PARTS (vaguely in order of usefullness)
  • Elenco Resistor Kit
  • Elenco Capacitor Kit
  • Elenco Transistor Kit
  • Elenco Diode Kit
  • Elenco LED Kit
    (Of couse you don't have to get the Elenco kits, those are just the ones I use and really like)
  • Voltage regulator ICs (Great for providing regulated power to things that need more than what your arduino can provide)
  • Trimmer Potentiometer Kit (really useful to have around for many projects)
  • Old electronic equipment to scavenge parts out of (Many of my parts have come from old equipment or broken ATX computer power supplies. Tearing stuff apart is both fun and yields great parts.)
    I think that's all for now...
u/BcrdNCola · 2 pointsr/minipainting

Purple Power / Super Clean diluted at about 1:1 with water, let it soak for a couple days in an airtight tub (Tupperware or something similar), then go at it with an old tooth brush and water. It wont get every nook and cranny, but I've been using this method to strip minis of acrylic paints and basecoats for years with great success.

If you're willing to spend a little more money, get a cheap sonic jewelry cleaner off of amazon (something like this will work well) and fill it with the same above mixture. Drop your minis into it, let it soak, turn it on for 2-3 mins every now and again, and save yourself most of the elbow grease. You'll likely still have to go at it with the toothbrush though to get some of the more stubborn spots, but it wont be as labor intensive as a deep scrub.

u/mywindow · 1 pointr/DIY_eJuice

I'm happy with this model. It's been a workhorse for me for years. I purchased it because it would clean brass casings. My only complaint is the short timer and the heating function is not needed and too hot for e-juice.

u/somerandomanalogyguy · 1 pointr/Tools

I've had my eye on this Rigol oscope for years now, haven't been able to talk myself into it yet:

Is there a different one you'd recommend with good features but perhaps a bit cheaper? I'm not a pro, just a hobbyist that likes nice tools.

u/EkriirkE · 1 pointr/trs80

Popular hobbyist benchtop scopes are rigols DS1052E and newer DS1054Z. Both easily hackable for expanded features.

Seeed studio also has very decent pocket scopes, ready-made DSO models

I own the DS1052E(hacked) and DSO Nano V3(alternate firmware) personally. Both have been great, but id opt for the newer 4ch rigol if i were on the market now

They seem a bit expensive from amazon, though...

u/pulsetrainuart · 1 pointr/electricians

You could pickup an oscilloscope such as this one and see if there’s anything funny going on with the power. A few evenings of YouTubing should get you familiar with how to use it and what to look for. Could be a bad transformer supplying power from the utility.

u/kevs · 1 pointr/ECE

You can have good luck scouring eBay or craigslist for a used analog scope. Also some of the the Chinese off-brand models have good reviews (Ex - Rigol DS1052E 50Mhz scope)

As far as a bench top PSU I used an old ATX power supply from a desktop supply which gives 12V/5V/3.3V rails.

u/CryptoVaper · 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette

I have this one which has a 30-minute timer and a built-in heater. It's excellent but I mainly just use it to clean atomizers, though. I don't think the ultrasonic vibration helps steeping any more than just manual shaking. What it does do is strip the ink off the bottle labels. The heat is probably more beneficial but you don't need to spend $85 to just to heat ejuice bottles.

u/oldmanskillz · 1 pointr/VapePorn

It is simpler than it looks,

ehpro kayfun lite plus clone base with M-tank, then a standard center steel section coupled to a second M-tank, with the top cap screwed on there. The chimney is extended using a repurposed pipette thing like these HERE Drip tip is a cute boy from 101vapes

It is filled with 80% Indigo RiffRaff, 20% Cola Freeze from EJC - a fruity cool type of ADV, but maybe I should fill it with some Absolute Pin, just to see how long it would take to finish one tank... :p

u/midnighteskye · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

Molecular Gastronomy Spherirication is really fun and sciency. I made little balsamic vinegar spears when I did it for a project but you can do it with fruit juice and then put them on ice cream. They are kinda like boba but much smaller. I used these pipettes to make the spheres (if you decide to do this, I still have a bunch and totally willing to send you some if you would like) It was pretty fun and I'm an adult. Also I have a simpler recipe but mine is specifically for vinegar...not sure if that matters...

These brain ice cube trays would make ice or you could make mini brain jello jigglers.

u/Zaliika · 1 pointr/Random_Acts_Of_Amazon

Buy vinegar, bicarb, food colouring and pipettes. Put the bicarb in a tray, and mix the vinegar with food colouring in cups. Let the kids use the pipettes to drop vinegar into the bicarb and watch it fizz and bubble!
I do this with my class all the time, and they love it. The colouring just makes it extra fun. Of course, you can also just put the vinegar in a cup or bottle and drop the bicarb in... fwoosh! Explosion!

u/dgbk · 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette

For future reference, these are super helpful for tanks that have to be drained in order to access the coils.

u/aManPerson · 1 pointr/vaporents
  1. yes, if you make a THC ejuice, it should work in dam near any ecig parts
  2. 1g shatter + 1ml ejmix, stir, let sit at room temp, stir once a day, for one week = THC ejuice
  3. i make mine in a large BHO jar
  4. get a disposable plastic pipette to easily fill your ecig stuff.
  5. chase cloud 9

    to make it into a concentrate, you have to run a solvent over it. the easiest way for you might be to soak/rinse dry herb in some high strength everclear, if possible. but it's not a quick process to let it dry off and condense. i feel bad for everyone that doesnt have access to a decent supply chain :/.
u/chemcalfarmr · 1 pointr/DIY_eJuice

4 Oz bottles for nic, pg, and vg. I find these are perfect for control pouring.

Right now I use disposable pipettes for my flavors... I just started so I only have small 8 ml drams.

I just throw them away... But I have thought about cleaning them out with a squirt of water and reusing. I feel bad when I use 1 pipette for like 0.5 g of flavor.

I'm hoping I can move up to larger bottles and use regular bottle droppers or something.

u/YrocATX · 1 pointr/Art

If you can get the rest of the look maybe doing a "layered" injection of a liquid in to the background would work. Use a pipette to slowly place some liquid down and then another to do the eye. Good luck!

u/Verivus · 1 pointr/Aquariums

Hm, yeah, looks like the one on the ca version is a bit more expensive than in the US.

u/Ludnix · 1 pointr/ReefTank

I ordered a bunch of these:

I just cut the tips off if I'm using meatier foods, they come in handy for other stuff too and are cheap!

u/XenaWarPrince · 1 pointr/Gunpla

get a set of these on amazon. They are perfect for measurring paints. Small and disposable, so no need to try to clean paint out of them, they will last a while. If i need to measure paints, I just use 2 droppers and go either drop by drop, or using the little markers along the sides.

u/RelaxingOnTheBeach · 1 pointr/eldertrees

What are you using as a dropper? I use 3ml pipettes after trying a few other things and they are perfect for it. They have a large enough hole and suction power to pull up thick, goopy oils and precisely and easily fill a gel cap.

u/unitconversion · 1 pointr/Tools

Maybe a beaker clamp? Certainly wouldn't want to spin anything fast though.

u/codeindarkness · 1 pointr/DIY_eJuice

If you want to mix/shake up a juice in the bottle, I bought one of these just attach to a drill and go. You don't get the workout, but it's fast!

u/TrekkieTechie · 1 pointr/PlantedTank

> I plan to dose one "thread" of the cap every month.

Flourish Excel is only active in the water column for ~24 hours before it breaks down; it should be dosed daily or every other day. Monthly would be essentially pointless.

Also, you might find this useful! Great for easy dosing in smaller tanks; I have a couple of them.

u/Those_Good_Vibes · 1 pointr/LSD

I bought a 6 pack of amber colored, glass bottles off amazon. Only 6 bucks. These come with eye droppers, but they have no markings on them. I bought one seperately, also from amazon.

To mix them, I buy vodka from a liquor store. You can use water, but do NOT use tap water as it has chlorine that will immediately destroy LSD. I've also read that water degrades LSD more over time than alcohol, hence my choice. I use the dropper to measure out how much solution I want to use to put into the container, along with however many tabs I want to put in with it. Let it sit for a few days (swirl contents now and again) and voila.

Materials bought:

u/beardedqueen · 1 pointr/Rcbestsell

Yes, it should. 1000mg = 1gm. So knowing that you can convert an amount in milligrams to grams by dividing by 1000. So 30mg / 1000mg = 0.03g, or it would show on your scale 0.030g. It doesn't even have to be that difficult, simply knowing there are 1000mg in a gram you can see that the three zeros behind the decimal represent 999mg - 1mg. So 0.300 would be 300mg, 0.099 would be 99mg, so on. If you wanted to make the dose lower you could measure out 0.015, so 15mg, and dissolve it in 30ml of your solvent. 15mg / 30ml = 0.5mg. So that'd give you 0.5mg per 1ml.


Imo this is the safest way to this RC considering it's potency. Also I'm glad you responded, I realized the glass bottles I linked don't have ML markings on the droppers, and I can't seem to find of those online now. I got mine from Ceretropic a while back. So if you want to use this method and don't have a glass bottle either make sure you can find one that does have the MG marking, or you can buy this dropper seperate. Be safe! :]

u/AllEncompassingThey · 1 pointr/Drugs

That's not how it's set up, though.

u/Br4veNewW0rld · 1 pointr/AnycubicPhoton

It's difficult to get the excess resin off of areas that have support. The surface tension causes it to pool.

I recommend getting an ultrasonic jewelry cleaner. You can find them on amazon for around $20 USD. Fill the cleaner with isopropyl alcohol and let it vibrate for a few minutes. It will solve the problem.

Alternatively, you can try and scrub out the areas with a toothbrush, but I find that it takes to long and the results aren't as good as the ultrasonic cleaner.

EDIT: I just checked and they are actually closer to $40. I have this one and it works great.

u/HerpDerpenberg · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

mine was $40 on amazon and it's nice for cleaning jewelry too haha

u/gsdrakke · 1 pointr/bjj

I went with a more expensive model then some others.

MAGNASONIC Professional...

u/NeedsSleepy · 1 pointr/metalworking

I can’t really tell, but I haven’t worked with jewelry. Someone else here might be able to. Silver? Pewter? Zinc?

You could try cleaning solution or an ultrasonic cleaner. Many jewelry stores have those machines if you’d like to have someone else do it. If you use a solution, test a spot on the back first to make sure there won’t be a reaction.

u/magnesiumvs · 1 pointr/CysticFibrosis

I'd never heard of anyone doing it either. I just got curious about ways to clean the foils better and started experimenting. I just use soap / water in the solution and run it for about 10 minutes.


u/AnTi90d · 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette

I've considered ultrasonic cleaners. Right now, I just use scalding hot water, then a vodka bath, then I dry them on a paper towel in front of an air purifier.


20oz (600ml) seems to be the standard for personal use ultrasonic cleaners. Anything larger than that is well over $100.

These are the two most popular ones on Amazon:

u/BigZippo · 1 pointr/edc_raffle

Magnasonic Professional Ultrasonic Jewelry Cleaner with Digital Timer for Eyeglasses, Rings, Coins (MGUC500)

u/digiplay · 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette

This is the one I have. It's worked very well for me.

I'm just pasting out of the amazon app so if there's some kind of affiliate link (I'm not getting paid) it's unintentional

MAGNASONIC Professional Ultrasonic Jewelry and Eyeglass Cleaner With Digital Timer MGUC500

u/thirstyross · 1 pointr/portabledabs

Sure, I bought this one, but there are a bunch that are all really similar so I'm not sure it matters too much...good luck!

u/kulinasbow · 1 pointr/fountainpens

This is the one I use and I’m very happy with it.

u/Lucifer-52 · 1 pointr/modelmakers

It does pretty well and was inexpensive. Doesn’t do all the work tho. Still have to rinse, wipe out the cup, and disassemble, but spares a lot of work I think.

u/tralce · 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette

I have one and I would recommend it to anybody, but it is not a requirement by any means. I used to use rubbing alcohol, Q-tips, water, and time to clean my tanks, and it worked extremelt well.

With the ultrasonic I can get 5 tanks/RDAs clean in under 10 minutes. I run hot water, chuck the gear into the cleaner with the water, run it for 3 minutes, then use my air compressor to blow any excess water away. Honestly takes longer to reassemble everything than the cleaning takes.

Still, unless you're really anal about cleaning, or have a crapton of gear that needs cleaning often, you do not need one.

u/Kistler125 · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

Just picked up this on amazon

Did some research and they all seem very much alike, so I decided to just spend $10 above the avg price for the one with the most/best reviews. Let’s see how it goes this weekend!

u/redbluewhiteorange · 1 pointr/Invisalign

Magnasonic Professional Ultrasonic Jewelry Cleaner with Digital Timer for Eyeglasses, Rings, Coins (MGUC500)

u/sofauxboho · 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette

If you want stuff really clean or buy atomizers frequently (I have a problem) I also highly recommend an ultrasonic cleaner. They're not expensive and are both less work and more effective than hand cleaning. I have this one:

It's the only way I've been able to actually get old juice out of tanks you can't take apart like the Triton V1.

u/kablaq · 1 pointr/Warhammer

For airbrushes, I'm personally a fan of the Neo by Iwata, especially their gravity feed (cup) model. The brush is well built, fairly easy to take apart and clean, and has very few issues with most paints and other products you may put through it.

I picked mine up on sale for around $50, and if you have a Michael's or Hobby Lobby nearby, you may be able to pick it for less with one of their one-item coupons they release occasionally. It's also nice if you have a hobby store near by as you can drop in a pick up replacement needles or nibs if you accidentally drop it >.>; . Needles and nibs typically cost in the 10-15 dollar range for replacements, so not too terrible.

For compressors, a simple compressor with a tank will work wonderfully, so long as it has a proper pressure regulator and water trap. I have this compressor and it works well, after I got the correct airbrush hose to attach to the NEO.

There are a couple extra tools that can help with airbrushing as well, but most can be picked up at a later point. Something I would recommend that you get with the initial purchase is a spray booth. This allows you a place to spray into and capture many of the errant particles of paint from your airbrush. Combined with a proper respirator mask, it will ensure that you don't breath in any of the particulate from airbrushing, and hopefully don't have airbrush paints drying on items they weren't directly sprayed on. I would say of the two, the mask is the most important to have.

A quick-disconnect is useful for cleaning and swapping airbrushes, but isn't really necessary at first. A cleaning pot is also useful as it gives you a dedicated space to spray out leftover paint and cleaing fluid, and should stay fairly contained.

I would also look at purchasing a ultrasonic cleaner further on, as it is amazingly helpful for cleaning the airbrush when paint has leaked into the body, or spilled into places it shouldn't be.

Other's can probably offer advice as well, but that's what I currently use. Hope this helps!

u/aclapp1626 · 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette

I would absolutely recommend washing any new attys before use. If you have an ultrasonic cleaner, that is one of the best ways. If you do not, you can put it in a dish of hot soapy water, making sure to take it apart, and letting it soak for a few. You can then rinse and put in some vodka if you so choose, just make sure that if you do that you rinse really really well.

If you are interested in a reasonably price ultrasonic cleaner, heres one that Ive seen pop up a couple times here.

u/DarthChaos · 1 pointr/XWingTMG

They're used to clean jewelry.

Magnasonic Professional Ultrasonic Jewelry Cleaner with Digital Timer for Eyeglasses, Rings, Coins (MGUC500)

u/airtightalright · 1 pointr/wicked_edge

I did not go this fancy but here's one on amazon. I wish I had taken "before" photos to show you, but it looks brand new.

u/Butlerian_Jihadi · 1 pointr/Waxpen

My experience with consumer ultrasonic cleaners has been great. If you fill the chamber with water, but use a separate container to hold iso & your gear, you won't have to worry about cleaning.
I use this little fella
[Sorry hyperlink isn't working] which was $30 when I bought it.

That and a shallow tupperware. Any cheap ultrasonic with reviews, really, just get the dimensions of the chamber and make sure you can find a suitable container. I remember reading about an immersible ultrasonic transducer, like just drop the end in a bucket and it vibrates the water, but couldn't find anything. Just industrial ones.

u/WVildandWVonderful · 1 pointr/wedding

This is the one I use. I like it very much!

u/Int3rnalFury · 1 pointr/MechanicalKeyboards

no problem! the drop holy pandas are very inconsistently lubed. some have very little if any and others people have reported that theirs were overlubed, but general consensus was that no batch of received switches had been lubed consistently and that one switch from a batch could not be held to be lubed equivalently to another. mine seems to be on drier side and some were indeed more lubed than others. I just decided to relube everything.

this ultrasonic cleaner did the job for me:

just add a little bit of dish detergent or dawn and stir the watter a bit so it somewhat mixes, not bubble over XD, before you put the switch parts in for cleaning. it runs for 480 seconds max per time you turn it on. meaninng roughly 8 minutess. I would run it twice at 8 minutes and then just gently use tap water to rinse them slightly. From there, i would just let them dry.

u/xx2000xx · 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette

Back in the day we'd all use to just boil the hell out of our tanks and drip tips and but it was rare to see anything that wasn't stainless steel.

Now I use this this ultrasonic cleaner that's popular on this sub:

First with a drop of dish soap, then you can lift the basket out and rinse it and dump the water and do one more washing. I gotta say the hype was real and it'll get inside every nook and cranny. Just be careful though because it has some power and a lot of the time grub screws will come out and hard to spot those suckers when they're nice and clean now too.

Something like this is a must for every vapor too: - I'm sure Amazon has something similar and just figure out the conversion to Metric.

u/Lewis312 · 1 pointr/jewelry

Good to know. To clarify, she currently uses these two products - should we stop using them? What if there's no solder joints, would your opinion change? Magnasonic Cleaner & Jewelry Concentrate cleaner

u/deletedLink · 1 pointr/steroids

Post removed for having amazon referral links. Please ensure that nothing with "refRID" is allowed.

For example:

u/kiltedvaper · 1 pointr/DIY_eJuice

I have this exact one in perfect condition I'm trying to sell.

It has worked very well for me the few times I used it to make a couple 1L (85%VG)batches.

u/RainyForestFarms · 1 pointr/CannabisExtracts

Stuff you'll need (Prime links given)

$200 digital hotplate:

$13.50 large flask:

$9 rubber stopper to fit flask: (can be had for $.50 at Fred Meyers or lab stores)

$17.49 for a hose to run from faucet to condenser:

$16.72 for the condenser:

$13.03 for a stand to hold the condenser:

Misc you likely already have around:

Large pot or dish that can hold the flask

Cleaning sponge or rag

1/2 gallon vegetable oil

Total cost: $269.74 and maybe $20 for the misc stuff if you lack it

Preparation: This needs to be done in a temperature controlled room; the method uses slight variations in temperature to isolate out the individual chemicals, so any fluctuation in the room will hinder this. You will need to be near a sink with a running faucet. Be prepared for this method to take 24 plus hours.


  1. Place your large pot on top of the hot plate, and place your sponge or rag in the center of the pot. This will prevent a hot spot where the flask touches the pan.

  2. Fill your flask with the herb or extract you will be isolating (use extract, the results are much purer!), and place it on the sponge in the pot. Stopper the flask.

  3. Attach a hose from the stopper to the top of the condenser. Attach a hose from the faucet to the coolant intake on the condenser. Attach a hose from the coolant exhaust and let it dangle in your sink.

  4. Fill the pan with 1-2 inches of oil. Not enough for the flask to float, but enough for the oil level to be above the level of your herb or extract in the flask.

  5. Start running cold water through the condenser, and start heating the oil. To get a list of the required temps, lookup each cannabinoid on Chemblink (or wikipedia), and look for the evaporation temp listed. Start with the lowest temp and work your way up.

  6. Once the oil has reached the temp you specified, let the system run for at least 4 hours. You will begin to see resin buildup inside of the condenser. This is your isolate. Once you are satisfied that no more isolate is building up: run hot water through the condenser so the isolate melts and runs out of the condenser.

  7. Go up a heat level and repeat 5-6.

    As I said, this really only works for THC-like cannabinoids, you won't get any terps with this method without much more expensive equipment (theyll just evaporate away), and the overall loss is great enough that its unlikely youll be able to get an isolate of CBG or THCV, since they are such a small percentage of the cannabinoids, but you should have no problem getting pure THC and even CBD, assuming your starter strain has more than a percent of it. Once you have isolates you can isomerize and do other fun stuff as well.

    That said, pure THC isnt fun at all, but its a great learning experience, and you can also use the same setup to distill essential oils or liquor, which is a slightly different process but uses the same equipment (though you can sub the digital hotplate for a cheaper electric range for those purposes)
u/cosmicosmo4 · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

You just want a controllable constant-current-constant-voltage power supply. Buy this.

Your solenoids, like all DC loads, have some Current vs Voltage curve, that they have to obey. For the simplest load possible, a 1-ohm resistor, that curve is Current = Voltage / 1 Ohm. Solenoids might have a nonlinear curve. But they simply can't operate off of the curve. All you get to do, as the operator, is choose where on the curve to be. You can apply whatever voltage you want, and the curve will dictate what current flows. Or you can choose what current you want, and apply the voltage that gives you that current. The device that you need to do both of those things is a constant-current-constant-voltage power supply.

What you've been told ("the voltage needs to remain at the same level whereas changing the amps with move the spool") is probably just a simplification of the fact that the current-voltage curve in the region of interest has a very high slope - so only tiny changes in voltage are needed to produce large changes in current. Or, put another way, the desired change in current will only require a tiny voltage change. Or they were just wrong, and misunderstand it themselves.

u/babydickonboard · 1 pointr/AskElectronics

Bit more than you probaly want to spend, but I've had good luck with this one for about $90. Korad kd3005D

u/number3737355 · 1 pointr/PlantedTank

Personally, I would buy this tank and solenoid for a third time, maybe even the multi chambered.

u/Urmomadon · 1 pointr/Aquariums

Yea I feel ya. I'm getting this co2 tank with this regulator

I wanted to get the 5lb cause it will last a long time and is only like $15 to refill at the welding supply near me. I hopefully won't have to upgrade until I get my 250g tank and ill be getting a 20lb for that one.

u/notpace · 1 pointr/Kombucha

I have a 5 lb. CO2 tank that sits on a small shelf in the back of my kegerator, with a regulator to dispense CO2 at 30PSI. The CO2 is attached to the corny keg using some 5/16" gas line and a ball-lock fitting.

The 40 ft. of beverage line is 3/16" (internal diameter) vinyl tubing that is coiled and wrapped with zipties to make sure it doesn't get tangled. Even though that sounds like a lot of line, there is only ~8 ounces of fluid in it when it is completely full. When the keg runs dry, I detach the CO2 and beverage lines, clean the keg, add about a liter of sanitized water (diluted starsan) to the keg, reattach the lines, and push the sanitized water through the beverage line. When the beverage line looks nice and clean (but still has the sanitized water in it), I can take it off and leave it in my kegerator until it's ready to use again. When I add another full keg, I just discard the first glass (which is half sanitized water and half sediment from the cold crash), and then I'm good to go.

u/audis4gasm · 1 pointr/Homebrewing

I agree I linked an item from kind of a random website, but check out the Amazon value. Also check out What's Brewing Supply in Palatine, they filled mine for $12 or so.

u/artenius · 1 pointr/winemaking

Try amazon, this one says they can ship to finland. Shipping would be ~30 bucks though. Might buy the whole assembly in that case.

Ball Lock and hose

Coupler and valve assembly

As for getting the tank filled, I would go to your nearest bar or restaurant that uses co2 for their soda/beer and just see who their vendor is.

u/Vendeta44 · 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette

Ultra sonic cleaner on amazon is $30 shipped. Worth every penny to keep you vape gear clean! Bonus you can speed steep the odd bottle of juice with it.

u/Nexnecis · 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette

Personally I use this ultrasonic cleaner. When I go to change coils I throw it all in there and put on a few cycles and it comes out surprisingly clean ( seriously, these things are like magic ) . When my driptip looks a little funky I just throw it in solo and it's good to go.

u/hvgwib · 1 pointr/ebikes

The only way I clean my chain is taking it off entirely and putting it into one of these with whatever cleaner you like, I've used a citrus degrease and simple green, both seemed great. Nothing has done as good of a job.

Once clean and dry, I drop the chain into this and shake the chain around with the lid on tight. I then hang the chain over the container with the ends of the chain just over the opening of the bottle, a funnel can help here but I never needed it.

Chains come out super clean, extremely well lubricated, and I absolutely love this lube. The only thing I've liked better is paraffin wax in certain respects but much sooner reapplication is needed which can be annoying.

You can fit cassettes in these ultrasonic cleaners as well, does a great job.

u/Racoonsinatrenchcoat · 1 pointr/minipainting

I use an ultrasonic cleaner ($30 on amazon) with just plain water. A few seconds is all it takes. With a splash of simple green added, they're also very useful for cleaning & stripping models, cleaning airbrushes, etc.

If you don't want to spend the money, an old toothbrush and some water should do the trick.

u/jshly91 · 1 pointr/bikewrench

I use a little one from amazon:

I use it with heated water and just a little bit of degreaser if needed. Sure it takes a few batches and a few runs to do everything, but it's only $30 and things come out super clean.

u/dontfeedphils · 1 pointr/VapeXhale

I actually got it from Vapexhale, but I think it was a limited run because it's been a while since I've seen it on the website. For an ultrasonic cleaner you can do something like this. I soak the nails and baskets in the ultrasonic cleaner filled with the highest concentration isopropal alcohol I can find. Usually soak them overnight or for a day, but it doesn't have to be that long, and I'll just turn on the ultrasonic cleaner here and there during that time.


Then when I'm ready I'll take them out, brush them off good to remove the remaining stains, soak in clean iso for a bit, dry off, and then finally burn them off in the vape with it set to the highest temp (in case it needs to be said, always be careful with iso around heat, otherwise you might lose some hair or go boom).

u/nickwc92 · 1 pointr/askwomenadvice

I've worked for a retail jeweler for years in the past. Just walk into a jeweler and ask them to clean it, they will clean it free. When I was working there our main idea to keep people in the store to try and sell something was to offer to clean all the jewelry they had on and while they sit in the machine cleaning we would offer our help. But you dont have to be helped if you just want it cleaned.

Get on Amazon and buy some Gemoro cleaner. Or buy a machine, it shocks all the dirt and crud off here is a cheap one that will work, or give you an idea of what you want, if you want to do it at home. Just let it sit in machine for a minute to a couple mins depending on how dirty it is. But if you buy the machine please buy the cleaner chemicals to go with it so it will clean properly. You mix the chemicals with water based on the chemical brands instructions. Be sure to do some googling on what stones and metals can go into those machines. Stones like opal are precious, soft stones, that should not be placed in those machines. A lot of birthstones shouldnt be placed in those machines. They will discolor them and ruin them.

Edit: If its diamonds and real gold wear it whenever you want. The only thing that will degrade is the gold. But you can "re-dip" the gold whenever it starts to degrade or discolor. White gold will become more "matte" or not as shiny. When it comes to that just spend 25-40 bucks on dipping it. Yellow gold will start to turn into a white gold color, so dip it then. With yellow gold there is silver metals mixed into it so that's why itll turn white-ish after a while.

I hope this helps you. I recommended the machine incase you dont want to be hassled in the jewelry store, they're ruthless because sales are low 98 percent of the year. I recommend going to a local jeweler because you're helping your local community jeweler stay in business and they wont bombard you like retail will, like with credit card applications and all the bs. Good luck and congratulations!

Edit 2: Also, if its gold and diamonds, dont be so tough on yourself. Just was your hands in public with the ring on. Dont risk loosing it or forgetting it because you hear people say it messes the ring up or whatever cause of soap. It really wont mess it up like that. Just take it off when you put on lotion, sunscreen, etc.

u/jazzy_jackie · 1 pointr/lifehacks

There's this machine that uses ultrasonic vibrations and some solution to clean it. People use it for jewelry too.

u/Margucci · 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette

cant do much besides switch juice if you want them to gunk less. however, and amazing tool to clean them is an ultrasonic cleaner. just dry burn and rinse off. plop the entire deck into the cleaner with some soap and water for 5-6 mins, rinse well, wick, vape.

they are also amazing at cleaning all your vape stuff as well.

u/LamborghiniVeneno · 1 pointr/gadgets

Thanks! Looks like this is cheap enough.

u/londonlovelee · 1 pointr/MakeupAddiction

I bought a jewelry cleaner machine like this....
Best thing I found so far... I wish they made a tiny fuzzy brush to really get in the nooks

u/Urnquei · 1 pointr/microdosing

More error margin if you don't have proper measuring equipment, yes. I have good pippetes. Something like this works fine for mL. It will work this way, just wasting water. Shelf life in the closet should be years, but may lose up to 10% potency a month, at the very worst. Most likely just a percent a month.

This is a good vial too.

u/disgustipated · 1 pointr/airbrush

These work great for mixing Cheap as hell, too.

Disposable pipettes work great for transferring paint.

u/IsABot · 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette

Honestly, don't. Skip any starters as they are all generally over priced. Just buy things separately.




30mL Bottle if you need some for concentrates, nicotine, VG, PG, etc. Or just to put your juice in.

Cheap Pipettes

u/poundfoolishhh · 1 pointr/DIY_eJuice

As a couple other people have said, find a few recipes you think you'll find interesting and buy those flavors. I started like you and picked a bunch of random shit that I thought I'd like and quickly realized I didn't know what I was doing and couldn't really make anything good with what I had.

I also suggest buying a 12 pack of 30ml and 60ml droppers from Amazon. Eventually you'll want to get 120ml's too. You'll see that only 15mls just don't cut it in the long run... when you take into account steep times, sometimes you'll have to wait a couple weeks to know how a recipe turns out. When you find a good one you'll want to make way more than 15ml.

May also want to pick up some disposible pipettes like these. I find that even if the flavor has a dropper, they're usually a small diameter and if you're making a big batch of something you'll be there for 10 minutes getting 50 drops out of it. Pop the dropper off and these make the process go much faster.

u/allaboardthebandwago · 1 pointr/Gunpla

I started asking myself this awhile ago. Personally, I use pipettes for measuring paint, for containers I have some tiny metal tins, but no matter what you do, you will always have waste. At first it really bugged me, but after I thought about it more, a jar is really only a couple bucks, and the amount actually wasted will take a long time to add up to anything significant.

For the actual measurement aspect, I go by "drops" It's not really perfect, but it seems consistent enough. I will admit that I can be lazy and will mix in the airbrush cup as well, but only if the paint is thin enough.

u/FlyByPC · 1 pointr/electronics

This one seems to have good ratings. There are probably a couple dozen similar ones out there that are just as good.

There are also multiple-output ones too -- it all depends on what you plan to do.

EDIT: After reading some of the reviews, do look at what they say about the way this one sets up the voltage. It might not remember the voltage setting on power-up, so you may have to set it each time before you connect it.

u/waltwhitman83 · 1 pointr/CarHacking

Say I'm building a mini ECU simulator. I need to provide 12v @ 5A DC over OBD-II. What's the best way to do this, with something like this: ?

u/frosty1 · 1 pointr/AskElectronics
u/libcrypto · 1 pointr/modular

I have this one and I'm happy with it. I have another cheaper one which is good and useful, but the Rigol has much finer control than that one.

I would suggest not getting a software 'scope, no matter what you do, because it may rely upon an audio interface, and I haven't yet seen an audio interface that has DC-coupled inputs. (You need DC-coupled if you are going to analyze signals under 10-40Hz or so, because an AC-coupled interface will not represent them correctly.)

u/A_Fire_Extinguisher · 1 pointr/amateurradio

just so yall know the Rigol DS 1054Z can be hacked to be a 100MHz scope (normally 50MHz) and have extra triggers

u/jikzpmtt · 1 pointr/esp8266

Hah yeah, it's a Rigol DS1054Z, about the least expensive new scope you can buy.

I've found a few pages that talk about this type of DTR-only reset circuit for the ESP8266, but it's based on the Arduino schematic.

edit: also SJ2 is a solder jumper with a cuttable trace in case I need to disable the auto-reset.

u/Modbuss · 1 pointr/diypedals

You don't actually need that high of a sample rate, since it's just audio you're dealing with the highest you'll be scoping will be ~20kHz. But should you ever do anything else you'll want a higher rate. Here's what I would recommend: Rigol DS054Z

Edit: I bought the Tenma one for the same price and it is nowhere near as good as that Rigol. Seriously for the value, if you want to spend less than $500 that's the one to go with.

u/LD_in_MT · 1 pointr/amateurradio

Not that they are totally worthless, but most people say a used <$100 scope is better.

The other option is save your money for something like this for $400:

There are firmware mods that take it to 100MHz and open up all kinds of features, like serial decode.

u/MFRobotGuy · 1 pointr/arduino

I was really hoping that was the case, but I swapped the cheapo power supply with one of these:

And The same thing happens. I've got the Current dialed all the way, with the voltage at 5.5 (same as the power supply that works). It shows a 1.4 Amp draw, which the supply should be more than able to handle. Same deal though, servo runs to zero. Still works fine using the dedicated 5v supply putting out 5.5v.

u/chickadoos · 1 pointr/chillichump

Amazon has pretty cheap stir plates that would probably cost less than a fan/magnet/speed control/box combo.

u/meatiel · 1 pointr/Homebrewing
u/bloomenkrieg · 1 pointr/Kratom_Info_Exchange

Using chocolate almond milk and a magnetic stirrer
It makes the Kratom sooooo creamy and not chalky. Mixes perfectly. So much better than water or anything else.

u/handnaners · 1 pointr/Homebrewing

A cheap $25 dollar stir plate. Being able to reliably get 3x the pitch rate from a set and forget device is worth it to me. It pays for itself in 2-3 brews!

Amazon link for those who might be interested:

u/dafishinsea · 1 pointr/chillichump

I bought a cheap one from Amazon. This one.

u/Dayos80 · 1 pointr/MephHeads

for PH i own this one and i bought this calibration solution.

For PPM this guy.


People highly recommend BlueLabs however, Im poor and these work LOL

u/hotswapper · 1 pointr/Vaping

Ultrasonic cleaner will fix this.

u/dataylorm · 1 pointr/Coilporn

I ended up ordering this: Ultrasonic Cleaner $28.99 from Amazon. It had good reviews and a decent sized basket. I figure if it sucks Amazon is super easy to return. It will be interesting to post some before and after close ups of wire after cleaning since it's obvious there is a tiny amount of dust and probably skin getting left in the wire from handling it while making it.

u/RamboUnchained · 1 pointr/electronic_cigarette

Yeah, we gotta make it work, though! I'm on Amazon scouring for different wall-mountable storage options. My damn walls are gonna cave in if I keep putting shit on them lmao. But this is the cleaner I ended up getting.

u/mr_william · 1 pointr/modular

Just a cheap diy kit I picked up off amazon. It requires soldering and when I was finished it didn't work. I had to spend about a day googling and scouring through old forum posts to find someone who had a similar issue and see how they fixed it.

Edit it was specifically this one. I got it to teach myself how to solder and even if I fucked it up, I was really only out like 20 bucks.

u/MassDisregard · 1 pointr/ElectricalEngineering

So, for a basic beginning to get into electronics you need:

  1. A soldering iron. For troubleshooting and assembly it is important to know how to solder. There are a bunch of YouTube videos on the subject.

  2. Hookup Wire. 22 AWG solid core is the best wire in my opinion for use in breadboards and general repair.

  3. A Multi-Meter. Probably the most important diagnostic tool you could own. This is not the end all best meter but it is a good DIY soldering experience. You learn some soldering basics while building your own test equipment.

  4. An Oscilloscope. This is a cheap beginner build it yourself scope. This is the second most important tool for a circuit designer to own. This particular kit is good enough for basics.

    This would be a starter kit which would help build up soldering skills and start building up knowledge.

    Getting Started in Electronics is a good read for a beginner to understand basics in circuit theory. I may have seen this floating around the interwebs as a PDF when Radio Shack was going down.

u/bbartokk · 1 pointr/modular

Is that a decent oscilloscope? Is it this one on Amazon? If so, how do you connect to it?

u/vitriolix · 1 pointr/synthdiy

Sounds good. I find it amusing that you played it upside down.

Is that scope one of these?

I am almost done building one with the intention of using it in my eurorack setup. What does the nob do on it?

u/EKinnamon · 1 pointr/hydro

Is there a tool that can give me the PPM for N-P-K?

I ordered these.

u/perpetualnotion33 · 1 pointr/DIY

There's a ton of them out there, but something like this is fine. If you are trying to go really cheap, then a battery charger is just fine. Just avoid newer ones because they usually come with an automatic shut off that won't work with your solution. There are a lot of electrolysis tutorials, but just knock any flaking paint off after you're satisfied and prime and paint. You might consider a self etching primer with a rust inhibitor if it's going back outside.

u/twiztidhatchet · 0 pointsr/DIY_eJuice

Get an ultrasonic cleaner with a heating function

Don't know what your budget is but something like this

u/isonicinc · 0 pointsr/AskElectronics

I would recommend either our iSonic P4810 model (which has a tank size of 18.3x15.3x7.7 cm) or our P4800 (which has a tank size of 16.5x13.5x6.5 cm).

Either of these models can be purchased off of our website at or Amazon at


I would also recommend that you try our iSonic Jewelry & Eyewear Cleaning Solution. This solution is capable of breaking down oil, dust, dirt, and other residue. Also available on our website or Amazon:

u/GeorgeSC · 0 pointsr/electronic_cigarette

here you go link

u/iReviveMobile · -1 pointsr/mobilerepair

Yes, but I only need something cheap to do OCCASIONAL water damage.
What's a good fluid to use with it? Just ordered this one:

Think it's half decent for $30??

u/bmlbytes · -2 pointsr/ECE

If you have an iPad an oscilloscope can be yours for $300.

Otherwise as pointed out, you can get a 50MHz or 100MHz resolution oscilloscopes for around $400.

What other equipment are you looking to get?

Try eBay for used equipment, and Google Product Search for new and used equipment.