Reddit reviews EPAuto 1/2-inch Drive Click Torque Wrench, 10~150 ft./lb, 13.6~203.5 N/m
We found 4 Reddit comments about EPAuto 1/2-inch Drive Click Torque Wrench, 10~150 ft./lb, 13.6~203.5 N/m. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.
Durable Ratchet Head: Made from Hardened treated Chrome Vanadium steel alloy (Cr-V) Corrosion-Retardant: Satin Finish. Made in TaiwanEasy Storage: A sturdy plastic storage case is included. Non-Slip Grip: Knurled handleEasy to Read: High Contrast & Dual Range Scale. Accurate: Pre-Calibrated to ± 4%Accessories included: 1/2" Drive 5" long Extension Bar and 1/2" Drive to 3/8" Drive ReducerSimple and Reliable: “Click” sound tells the preset torque value is reached. Stop applying force when you hear and feel it.
I was just looking at a 3piece craftsman prybar set at the store which was on sale for $30some odd dollars. It was down from $40something odd dollars.
Started looking online and ran into this 3 piece pry bar. Look familiar?
Same thing is going on with this tekton torque wrench i found its twin here
OP, I've replied a few different times in this thread but forgot to share my own knowledge. A year ago I broke my torque wrench and did an obscene amount of research. I ended up buying this one on Amazon for under $30. It's less expensive than most, but from everything my research told me it was the exact same type as another, more expensive torque wrench. (I can't remember the name, maybe it was a Tekton.)
I've been using it on bikes for the last year and it's worked great.
Here is a tuning kit
> do the weights matter if I get some stage six one or some generic ones
Unless you are racing a decent set (of 6) is probably $10 or you can go fancy and get $15 ones. NCY weights are more like $20 but I'd consider that high end fancy schmancy.
It's worth noting that your weights should be inspected/changed every 1000 or so miles anyway, so if you bought used it would probably be good to go ahead and change them. Here is a very good GY6 service manual too BTW
You will likely also (arguably) need a torque wrench for reassembling the transmission and a clutch holder. If you don't have these you can get by using other methods or a strap wrench
Its worth noting there are also sliders that you can use instead of rollers. If it makes any difference probably has to do with the slope in your variator and the design of the slider. There are many, many different combinations.
I found one source that says:
> "for every .5 grams heavier , it seems as if you loose about 250 rpms or so. Maybe a little less. "
but I cannot say if that is accurate or not.
You might also be able to change your variator to get a little bit more difference as well. As with changing weights its something some people seem to swear by and others say does nothing. Either way companies like NCY make nice parts that may be lighter and generate less/dissapate more heat, last longer, and offer a smoother ride than stock parts. If you go this route you can usually do it one piece at a time.
I'm still pretty new to all this though :-O so by all means if someone sees I said something inaccurate let me know!
Also can be had for under $30
1/2", 3/8", 1/4". If you don't already have one, the Upper Vice Block is under $20 or under $30 for the pair on the same item.