Reddit reviews Finish Line DRY Teflon Bicycle Chain Lube 2oz Drip Squeeze Bottle

Oh wow finally a problem that I spent a while trying to figure out how to solve

DON'T use WD-40, by definition it's not a lubricant (it's a displacement fluid!) and will only smell and gum up all of the contact points. I found this out the hard way.
What you should use is any sort of dry bicycle chain lubricant which won't leave a residue or smell after 15 minutes of drying and should get rid of any creaking noises for about a year. Something like this.

Take your lubricant and firstly apply it to all the areas in the corners (where the posts are) where metal touches metal - basically any contact points where the mattress frame connects to the post, and especially around those circular rivet thingies that hold the assembly together. If the creaking doesn't stop after those areas are lubricated, you can move on to applying a small amount of lubricant to each of the metal 'hooks' on the frame, both where they attach to each other throughout the center area of the frame and more critically, where they hook onto the mattress frame itself (I think most of my creaks happened here and at the posts). Use the smallest amount of lubricant possible at each joint so you don't waste any and it doesn't spill everywhere.

Good luck!

A newbie myself but, as said above, definitely take care when removing the keycaps. The stems are prone to breaking and getting stuck in the switch.

 

Since you have to take the switches apart in order to swap out the sliders for the Nexus sliders, invest in a cheapo ultrasonic cleaner. That is the one I got and, while not the best, it gets the job done. Get one of these as well.

1. Take all the switches apart. You should have the slider, the top housing, the spring, the tactile leaf, and the bottom housing with the contact leaf. Some people like to take out the contact leaf from the bottom housing but I like to leave it in.
   
   
2. Clean each group of parts in the ultrasonic cleaner with cool water and 1-2 dental tabs. I use cool water because the water gets pretty warm after 10-15 minutes of cleaning.
   
   
3. Once cleaned, lay them out on something like a napkin separated from each other, place them somewhere where they can stay relatively dust free (otherwise why even clean it) and let them dry for minimum 24 hours. Mine dried quicker but better safe than sorry.
   
    
   
   Since you say the springs are light for your tastes (same for me) you can buy replacement springs. People will warn you about SPRiT because of how he handled things in the past but he's the only person I know of who has Alps replacement springs. For me to truly enjoy these switches, I needed heavier springs so I decided to reach out to SPRiT through his website and hope for the best. I got my first order and my second order from him has already shipped. (Do note that Korea Post took about 35 days to deliver to me and the tracking didn't update at all since it left Korea. This may not be their fault, though, as I later realized I was using a service called Aftership and not Korea Posts website to track my order.)
   
   
    
   
   I'm no lubing expert but I have lubed some alps using RO59. I've been recommended this lube, as well. The basic gist of lubing goes:
   
   
4. Lube the two sides of the slider.
   
   
5. (Optional) Lube the two sides of the slider that make contact with the tactile leaf and contact leaf. This will likely cause a decrease in tactility.
   
   
6. Lube the rails of the top housing where the slider makes contact.
   
   
7. (Optional) Lube the inside of the slider, where the spring goes mainly.
   
   
8. (Optional) Lube the spring.
   
    
   
   Putting it all back together is pretty simple. If you're patient enough to wait, I'd go ahead and wait for the Nexus GB to ship. If not, Alps switches are able to be opened without desoldering, so you can go ahead and do a build now and replace the slider later.
   
    
   
    
   
   I hope I've helped :)

I haven't worked with MOD switches personally, but I've experimented with lube on Zealios, which I think are pretty similar.

Best results were with the Techkeys GH v4 lube and Finish Line Dry Teflon Lube. I ended up going with the latter on my Zealios, which I think already come with a tiny droplet of Krytox on them---I basically just doused the stems, touched the spring ends, and reassembled the switch after everything dried. The result was a slightly quieter, more refined switch.

The GH v4 is also really good stuff, but I would advise only using a very thin layer, brushed only on the stem. Too much of that stuff can result in mushy key feel.