Reddit reviews Insta-Cure Gap Filling 2oz Bob Smith Ind.

I used to buy Loctite. It's pretty decent for what it is, but I don't really like those fancy 'squeeze' bottles, so I started looking around for a different brand to buy from.

This is what I buy now and it works very well. Good value, too. It's usually around $6, not $8, which is the highest I've ever seen it. Sometimes it drops down to $3/$4.

http://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000DD1QQ?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o06_s00

Do yourself a favor, and buy Bob Smith brand super glue. More glue for less money. Also, they sell "un-cure", in the case you glue yourself to your ... self.

Maybe try this brand too: https://www.amazon.com/Insta-cure-filling-Bob-Smith-Ind/dp/B0000DD1QQ

It cures fast and the tube I have has lasted a long time. I have used some department store bands and had trouble. Never used gorilla, though.

Yup have fun! If you got a revell kit which requires gluing, I recommend using Tamiya cement instead of the supplied model cement. I found the supplied stuff tends to add thickness to connections, which will push apart seam lines. What you want to do with this stuff, if there's peg holes, apply a tiny bit in the hole then snap together. Run the thin brush with the tamiya cement along the seam line, this solution will soften and literally weld the plastic together. Apply pressure on both sides to really push together the seam. Some excess material will goo out, this is a sign that the melding is working and the pressure is pushing the 2 together. However dont over pressure to the point where things buck. Let sit and cure, preferably let sit for 12 hr+ (I'm impatient so sometimes I tackle it around the 4-6 hr mark). The plastic will solidify again and here you treat like the nubs, use a blade to carve off the excess and sand away the seam line. This is what modelers do to remove ugly gaps and large seam lines, a bit technical and requires practice, but necessary for certain kits.

If you're hasty and impatient like me and want to avoid waiting/don't care too much about seam lines, use CA glue Which is just fancy speak for super glue. This stuff dries thin and is VERY fast. The purple cap dries in 5-15s, there is a blue cap that dries in 1-3s. Use sparingly, and make sure the part doesnt need to come apart again, as they never will.

Ah yeah, the hasegawa Su-33 is pretty high end, plus expensive. would definitely practice before tackling it. I personally like the reverse swept plane from ace combat more, though I dont know much about the series

What I have done that seems to work well is get some good cyanoacrylate (super glue). Fill the gap full of the same colored sawdust. Then drip the glue into the sawdust until it doesn't soak in anymore. This creates a very hard filler that dries quickly. You can then sand it flush. Typically it just becomes a little darker along where the crack was, but I like the look, and it will be waterproof and very hard.

EDIT: I just want to add that cyanoacrylates have been used for dentistry and as an alternative to sutures (both on the skin and inside the body) so I don't believe toxicity is an issue.

The models are metal, so regular plastic model cement won't work. I recommend a good gap filling CA glue. Any hobby shop would carry it, and it's available on Amazon.

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B0000DD1QQ/ref=cm_sw_r_tw_s_awdm_V0tLxbFCMCDQP

Go with a glue in a bottle, not a squeeze tube, and store in in your freezer. The superglues at the store can almost be considered single use, as they do not reseal cleanly.

I've had a bottle of this stuff for 4 years, still good as new every time i used it

https://www.amazon.com/Insta-cure-filling-Bob-Smith-Ind/dp/B0000DD1QQ/

You could try hobby epoxy. Idk about how the heat generated from it will affect the headphones, or if it even will, but the epoxy I use is significantly stronger than hot glue.

(I crashed my RC plane and ripped the tail completely off and repaired it with epoxy. I crashed it again the next week, and the tail ripped off again, 1 inch away from where it had previously been ripped off. Pretty impressive imo.)

Edit: Here are 2 glues I'd recommend: Epoxy, Super Glue. Watch your fingers, this stuff WILL stick them to anything if you get some on them. (speaking from experience)

It will be plenty strong for you to leave it be to cure or work on another part. I use Insta-Cure+ very strong bong within a minute. They have some that cures slower or faster as well. Full strength cure in 2hrs for this one.

This works for plastic and resin models really well.

I use Insta-cure+ with some of my models:
https://www.amazon.com/Insta-cure-filling-Bob-Smith-Ind/dp/B0000DD1QQ

Insta-cure+ actually melts the plastic and fuses the two ends together. So you need to be very careful with how you use it.

Edit: Yes the 5-15 seconds to bond on the bottle is accurate. They also make a 1-3 second version... which usually ends with my thumb and index finger fused together.

I haven't had any magnets come loose yet! I have a bottle of this glue that I use -- I bought it because it's cheap but so far so good.

id reccomend this glue, i use it for models of any game. i used it on putting together many many points of directorate and other armies.


https://www.amazon.com/Insta-cure-filling-Bob-Smith-Ind/dp/B0000DD1QQ


pinning is ok, espeically with models that are large and have flat connection points like these, although ive never had to pin a firestorm model. they are quite light with the white resin they use.


the thin flakes or other resin flash id just scrape off with a knife. just make sure its clean and give it a good prime.


have fun!

This is the only glue I will ever use

https://www.amazon.com/Insta-cure-filling-Bob-Smith-Ind/dp/B0000DD1QQ

Hot glue and foam core are wonderful together, other than having to do a little clean up with the little hot glue strings.

However, IF you are using superglue for anything, please don't buy those little dinky bottles. Try Insta-cure, it's the exact same stuff, comes in multiple thicknesses, and costs the same for a 1 oz bottle as you would spend for one of those tiny tubes. I don't know that I've ever used a bottle fully up, they tend to dry out and harden over a year or two. Most model railroad and hobby stores will carry it, or just buy it online.

This is the glue I love, I also use insta-set which is a spray that will make the glue dry in seconds so you can keep working on the same part without stopping for a bit, great stuff.

The glue I'm using is a gap-filling cyanoacrylate, specifically this: https://www.amazon.com/Insta-cure-filling-Bob-Smith-Ind/dp/B0000DD1QQ

What I've been doing is applying it to the cracked areas, and smoothing it down. Once that's dried, I've applied more, and smoothed that. Repeating until the crack is filled, and I will sand that after. I have a pretty solid array of fine grit sandpapers, as well as a pretty extensive array of dremel bits. I think some fine grit buffs will help me with these cracks as well as some other rough spots I was hoping to smooth over. Hoping it goes well. I'm actually having some success re-texturing the hair where it cracked by using the same metal bristle tool on the glue as it dries. Gonna need to soak this tool in some acetone when I'm done, though.