Reddit Reddit reviews Leviton 47605-28W SMC Structured Media Enclosure with Cover, 28-Inch, White

We found 5 Reddit comments about Leviton 47605-28W SMC Structured Media Enclosure with Cover, 28-Inch, White. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

Tools & Home Improvement
Electrical Equipment
Circuit Breaker Panels
Breakers, Load Centers & Fuses
Leviton 47605-28W SMC Structured Media Enclosure with Cover, 28-Inch, White
Size 42 inch: 43.32" (1,100.3mm)H x 15.62" (396.7mm) W x 3.68" (93.5mm) DMultiple Knock-outs on top and bottom, including two 2” knock-outs on top, facilitate cable entry and routingCut-out in base of enclosure for mounting single and double gang J-boxes and power modulesCan be surface-mounted or recessedPositive tabs on housing sidewalls prevent enclosure from falling through the studs during installation
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5 Reddit comments about Leviton 47605-28W SMC Structured Media Enclosure with Cover, 28-Inch, White:

u/Iamnotacookiemonster · 13 pointsr/homelab

Found a similar one on Amazon US: Leviton 47605-28W Series 280M Structured Media Center with Cover https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002472KK

u/Philmatic84 · 2 pointsr/HomeNetworking

That guy is just trying to upsell you. Switches are designed exactly for that scenario, three switches are not too many. I have six and I have NEVER had an issue.

However, I would say that it is infinitely easier and cheaper to run lines before the drywall goes up. Run lines and ports to places you MAY think you want a port. In your case, I would put one on each end of each bedroom, two in the living room, and two in the lower level, then put the central wiring in your master closet. That's where it typically goes so you can hide the wiring in something like this and it will looks nice and tidy.

That's 10 ports, which may seem like a lot, but nothing is forcing you to connect them all at once. An 8 Port Switch like this one is extremely cheap and will keep everything nice and tidy.

u/BCosteloe · 1 pointr/homeautomation

This is probably obvious...and code now requires it...but make sure all your power lines run to the light switches before the load (ie, have access to a neutral wire). Most of the smart switches/dimmers etc require a neutral wire to operate (ie, they must have power all the time, and they relay the loads).

Since you're framing, now would be the easiest time to do wall-mounted TV Power and "behind the wall" conduits, similar to what this product enables: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009VYDHFQ

I agree with the other posters on the Cat6. I'd create a central hub location/utility closet and then run 2 lines of Cat6 to each room/wall likely to have a TV or computer. I can't speak on the Coax because I don't watch cable tv, but it's cheap enough...so why the hell not. Personally, I'd also run 2 lengths of speaker wire to each room as well (for stereo sound in your ceilings or walls). It's way cheaper to run a whole house music system from a central location via passive speakers than it is to say, buy $2,000-3,000+ in Sonos wireless speakers that could cover the same square footage. I think it's nice to have speakers out of sight and out of the way as well. Even if you don't install speakers, run the wire...it's cheap.

It's also nice to wire some outlets into areas that you think might work well for routers or wireless repeaters so that they can be mounted up high and possibly out of sight...without dangling wires. Even better, install a few of these in between the studs where your TV's, computers, routers, etc might go for super clean setups: https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-47605-28W-Structured-Media-Center/dp/B0002472KK. Make sure you wire outlets to the boxes so that all the power wires can stay inside the enclosure...

Personally, I think it would be worthwhile to start thinking, researching and planning exactly what features and gadgets you'd like your home to support NOW so that you can install exactly what you need without wasting materials or time on things you may not need...it also helps to work through certain issues, requirements and logistics while your home is most accessible sans insulation and sheetrock...

>An hour of planning can save you 10 hours of doing. - Dale Carnegie

u/Pythe · 1 pointr/HomeImprovement

I'm not Grim-Sleeper but I can clarify a couple points and add my experience.

The backhaul is the connection from that AP to the rest of the network. You're already running wires for them so no worries there.

I have my entire 1900sf covered by one combo router/AP in a central location. Made of sticks rather than bricks, but as long as your interior walls aren't plaster and lath you'll probably get good results. If it can't be central, aim for kitty-corner on the two of them. I'll second Grim's recommendation of UniFi hardware.

I helped set a friend up with an in-wall network cabinet, it worked great for our application. This one by Leviton, in fact. Packed in an 8-port switch, router, Power-over-Ethernet injector (for a UniFi AP!), and cable modem with lots of room to spare. Ventilation may be a concern with this, but he hasn't complained of equipment failure yet!

DIY on this is no trouble at all. Your keystones will be color-coded, so it's a matter of practice to get the shortest length of unwound wiring you can. Since most devices nowadays can't take advantage of full CAT6a capabilities, you won't be missing out if some of your work is a bit shoddy. Pro tip: Don't bother making patch cables yourself (from the wall to the device). That's the most unreliable part of the process, and Monoprice has done wonders for their cost.

u/cosmicosmo4 · 1 pointr/HomeNetworking

If your network is pretty small and you want to take flush to the next level, put your wall-mount patch panel, switch, router, and modem all inside a structured wiring cabinet