Best circuit breaker panels according to redditors
We found 37 Reddit comments discussing the best circuit breaker panels. We ranked the 26 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
We found 37 Reddit comments discussing the best circuit breaker panels. We ranked the 26 resulting products by number of redditors who mentioned them. Here are the top 20.
Found a similar one on Amazon US: Leviton 47605-28W Series 280M Structured Media Center with Cover https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0002472KK
How about a smart breaker like this? I believe it is a drop in replacement if you buy the right one.
https://smile.amazon.com/CNZJSC-Wifi-Smart-Circuit-Breakers/dp/B07FS9VJCL?sa-no-redirect=1
This is an example of whole house surge protection normally installed at the main electrical box. Make sure to have a certified electrician to install it should you go this route.
I can’t actually see the one installed inside the power meter by the power company but I’m certain you can google it and/or check with your power company.
I wonder how the power company decides what 30 minute window.
Is it 12:00 to 12:30 or is it a rolling window looking for the peak power draw.
If it's the first one you could put a relay on the charger that makes it charge from 11:45-12:15 lowering its peak draw by half at the expense of doubling your charging time.
something like this maybe
WiFi controlled circuit breakers. When member checks in the breaker can be turned on, turned off when member leaves.
CNZJSC Wifi Smart Circuit Breakers (4P) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FSPD2C8/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_euNiDbH2RJMRG
As written in the 2014 code, the garbage disposal would require GFIC protection and that GFIC protection must be in a readily accessible location. 2014 also requires arc fault protection to all kitchen circuits 15/20a @ 120v.
This leaves you with pretty much with 2 scenarios:
1- put a dead front GFIC and also have an AFIC or
2- put in a dual function breaker (AFIC and GFIC) and cover both bases.
It's just a perforated mounting plate.
E.g.
https://www.amazon.com/QMP3045-Perforated-galvanised-disitribution-Installation/dp/B008F5SUQI
> https://smile.amazon.com/CNZJSC-Wifi-Smart-Circuit-Breakers/dp/B07FS9VJCL?sa-no-redirect=1
This might be the way! 6 100amp breakers at $60 each would be $360. That's low enough that he might be able to stomach it.
I wonder about the wear that constantly flipping a breaker on and off would have.
I was quoted for $450 for the receptacles + wiring and $750 for the panel installation from a licensed electrician in my area from thumbtack just now. Is that too good to be true or a great deal then?
He said he would include all materials
>it would typically be 12awg.
Also I thought I am supposed to use 10awg for 35+ feet?
EDIT:
Also this is the Circuit breaker panel you are recommending I buy to replace mine?
Crap. Depending on the state (and sometimes city/county), any pulling of a permit will force you to get into full compliance with current code, even if it isn't a safety issue. The quote is still high for a full replacement of those panels and running an outlet, even with better grounding, updated to GFCI. A single 200A breaker box could support all of that unless the "apartment upstairs" is metered separately. It shouldn't be more than $2K IMO.
You will need ~24 circuits. This panel supports up to 40 so plenty of room for the future.
https://www.amazon.com/Square-Schneider-Electric-HOM4080M200PCVP-80-Circuit/dp/B00NO2533U/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1500345854&sr=8-2&keywords=200+amp+breaker+box
I would go to a junkyard or a decommissioned building and find an old breaker box (but you run the risk of trespassing).
Found this on amazon for about $75
Square D by Schneider Electric HOM2448M100PCVP Homeline 100 Amp 24-Space 48-Circuit Indoor Main Breaker Load Center with Cover - Value Pack (Plug-on Neutral Ready), https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00N01TMQE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_cwfxDb7HR5ECM
Actually finding one in a junkyard sounds cool because itll likely have a worn down/rusted look.
That guy is just trying to upsell you. Switches are designed exactly for that scenario, three switches are not too many. I have six and I have NEVER had an issue.
However, I would say that it is infinitely easier and cheaper to run lines before the drywall goes up. Run lines and ports to places you MAY think you want a port. In your case, I would put one on each end of each bedroom, two in the living room, and two in the lower level, then put the central wiring in your master closet. That's where it typically goes so you can hide the wiring in something like this and it will looks nice and tidy.
That's 10 ports, which may seem like a lot, but nothing is forcing you to connect them all at once. An 8 Port Switch like this one is extremely cheap and will keep everything nice and tidy.
Here's a Square D 42-space 225 amp QO panel for $166
If your network is pretty small and you want to take flush to the next level, put your wall-mount patch panel, switch, router, and modem all inside a structured wiring cabinet
Is the below device fine for the same.
CNZJSC Wifi Smart Circuit Breakers (4P) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FSR46NC/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_quuTCbQSD4J3E
I'm not Grim-Sleeper but I can clarify a couple points and add my experience.
The backhaul is the connection from that AP to the rest of the network. You're already running wires for them so no worries there.
I have my entire 1900sf covered by one combo router/AP in a central location. Made of sticks rather than bricks, but as long as your interior walls aren't plaster and lath you'll probably get good results. If it can't be central, aim for kitty-corner on the two of them. I'll second Grim's recommendation of UniFi hardware.
I helped set a friend up with an in-wall network cabinet, it worked great for our application. This one by Leviton, in fact. Packed in an 8-port switch, router, Power-over-Ethernet injector (for a UniFi AP!), and cable modem with lots of room to spare. Ventilation may be a concern with this, but he hasn't complained of equipment failure yet!
DIY on this is no trouble at all. Your keystones will be color-coded, so it's a matter of practice to get the shortest length of unwound wiring you can. Since most devices nowadays can't take advantage of full CAT6a capabilities, you won't be missing out if some of your work is a bit shoddy. Pro tip: Don't bother making patch cables yourself (from the wall to the device). That's the most unreliable part of the process, and Monoprice has done wonders for their cost.
This is probably obvious...and code now requires it...but make sure all your power lines run to the light switches before the load (ie, have access to a neutral wire). Most of the smart switches/dimmers etc require a neutral wire to operate (ie, they must have power all the time, and they relay the loads).
Since you're framing, now would be the easiest time to do wall-mounted TV Power and "behind the wall" conduits, similar to what this product enables: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B009VYDHFQ
I agree with the other posters on the Cat6. I'd create a central hub location/utility closet and then run 2 lines of Cat6 to each room/wall likely to have a TV or computer. I can't speak on the Coax because I don't watch cable tv, but it's cheap enough...so why the hell not. Personally, I'd also run 2 lengths of speaker wire to each room as well (for stereo sound in your ceilings or walls). It's way cheaper to run a whole house music system from a central location via passive speakers than it is to say, buy $2,000-3,000+ in Sonos wireless speakers that could cover the same square footage. I think it's nice to have speakers out of sight and out of the way as well. Even if you don't install speakers, run the wire...it's cheap.
It's also nice to wire some outlets into areas that you think might work well for routers or wireless repeaters so that they can be mounted up high and possibly out of sight...without dangling wires. Even better, install a few of these in between the studs where your TV's, computers, routers, etc might go for super clean setups: https://www.amazon.com/Leviton-47605-28W-Structured-Media-Center/dp/B0002472KK. Make sure you wire outlets to the boxes so that all the power wires can stay inside the enclosure...
Personally, I think it would be worthwhile to start thinking, researching and planning exactly what features and gadgets you'd like your home to support NOW so that you can install exactly what you need without wasting materials or time on things you may not need...it also helps to work through certain issues, requirements and logistics while your home is most accessible sans insulation and sheetrock...
>An hour of planning can save you 10 hours of doing. - Dale Carnegie
Actually, this one is the same model number, but the tiny little picture on the label seems to show the main breakers arranged left to right, like mine. However, without ordering it, and cracking open the box, I'd have no idea if it's actually correct, or if that's an out-dated picture.
Here is what all the others look like with the vertical arrangement.
Can anyone spot a difference that I could narrow down?
Okay - maybe this will work for you. I built two electric water heater controllers using relays that are plugged into z-wave outlets. Here's how I built them.
When the outlet is turned on by the z-wave controller, the coil is energized, turning on the relay - so the water heaters get power and water is heated. After a designated time - depending on the season, the outlet is turned off - so no more power to the water heaters.
If you want a detailed wiring diagram with pictures, PM me and I'll send it. But it really is very very simple. I've been using these for more than 2 years now, and have saved a bundle in water heating costs.
[Edited with information about ELK 9200]
BTW, the ELK-9200 heavy duty relay, which people plug into a controlled outlet to control water heaters and similar appliances is pretty much exactly what I made and runs about $100 on Amazon. Comes with everything you need except the controlled outlet.
Or, you can replace with an AFCI/GFCI breaker for additional nuisance trips :D
https://www.amazon.com/Siemens-Q120DF-Function-Circuit-Breaker/dp/B00LN74OO2/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1519165768&sr=8-2&keywords=afci+gfci+breaker&dpID=41NK8TrS-aL&preST=_SY300_QL70_&dpSrc=srch
Glad to help!
One thing I forgot to mention: When I moved into my house we only had a 100a meter. So we had an electrician upgrade the meter and the breaker panel to 200a (it requires a permit and is definitely not a DIY job).
But you need to see what size meter or panel (whichever is smaller) is. Having a new EVSE pulling 30a for 3 or 4 hours on a 100a meter means the rest of your house only has access to 70a while your EV is charging when it used to be 100a. Which will make it more likely to trip your 100a main breaker (the big breaker at the top of the panel that cuts power to the whole house).
Just consider what circuits you already have, and what your peak power consumption might actually be. IE: A cooktop on high might draw 3.7kW. On a 240V circuit that's 3700 / 240 == ~16a. When in doubt round up. So if I have a tankless electric under-sink water-heater like a Rheem RTEX-13 that can pull 13kW (13000 / 240 == ~55a), then I'm right at the limit if I'm charging at 30a, have my cooktop on high and am running the hot water. If I start the dryer at the same time or the air-conditioner kicks in I'll probably trip the main breaker if I only have 100a service.
It's peak power you need to worry about. A cooktop on medium might pull 1.5kW to start, but after the pan is hot it's going to modulate the power and probably only sustain 500W or something. So it's not something you'll find out by dividing your utility bill's kWh by 30 days.
I know it sounds complicated. It's really not. Just spend a few days taking note of what things that use electricity come on and when, and take special notice of when that happens simultaneously. Then see what breakers those circuits are labelled for, and add up the numbers. You could totally make a 30a charger work in a 100a home, just like you can make a hair-dryer work in the bathroom. You just can't run multiple hair-dryers at the same time if all your bathrooms are on the same circuit. An even better idea would be a lower power charger though. The smaller 16A charger I use for my car will give me about 10 miles of range per hour of charging. There's never been a time an overnight charge wasn't enough at that rate. I've only used my wife's 30a charger a couple times when I went days without charging and then felt like going somewhere and realized I could use a little more juice.
If you do end up needing to replace the panel, I recommend buying yourself and shopping for an electrician to do a labor-only job. Most will throw out quotes around $1,500 to $3,000, but with a little shopping you can get a labor-only job done in my area, including the permit, for about $700.
The panel and all the breakers were probably about $500 all in.
I actually replaced the 40-space load-center I had installed back then with a 54-space one last month since I wanted to add some new circuits and it was out of space.
GE THQLLX1 Generator Interlock Kit For Any Mod 6 150 - 225 Amp Main Breaker Load Centers PowerMark Gold™ https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00GMS90NM/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_bVbNAbN5BX5W7
Or $75?
Square D by Schneider Electric HOM3040L200VP Homeline 200-Amp 30-Space 40-Circuit Indoor Main Lugs Load Center with Cover Value Pack
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00DW47NXS/
Never seen one that used actual breakers...
I'm used to seeing These transfer panels that appear to use chintzy breakers.
However, Square D makes an interlock for their panels for even cheaper:
http://www.amazon.com/Square-Schneider-Electric-QOCGK2C-Generator/dp/B00CONDIGO/ref=pd_sim_sbs_60_4?ie=UTF8&dpID=41Y-8pUQ9eL&dpSrc=sims&preST=_AC_UL160_SR160%2C160_&refRID=02A2QPPE0FTAVJN41TMS
If you want to "backfeed", you need to install a transfer switch or interlock kit and an inlet in your garage or outdoors.
This is what I installed (specific to my panel) https://www.amazon.com/Square-Schneider-Electric-QOCGK2C-Generator/dp/B00CONDIGO/
Why do you need a 200A service? If you need more spaces for circuits, just get a panel rated according to the wire that is coming in from the service, but with more spaces than the one you have now. Unless you are adding something that takes a lot of juice, you can almost certainly keep the service size you have now and increase the number of circuits that are on it. That will save you a bunch of money. And it is possible to do without permits, though I really wouldn't encourage you to try.
Here's a 30 Circuit 125A Panel (there are probably others. This was the first one I could find):
http://www.amazon.com/Siemens-P3030B1125CU-Circuit-Indoor-Breaker/dp/B0088KONIO/ref=pd_sim_sbs_hi_4
You need to double check the ampacity of the service wires before this is a good solution. Your existing panel has a split bus and a total of 20 circuits. The siemens panel above would give you another 10 circuits.
So why do you need the 200A service?
I went with Siemens because they support 2 pole afci when I did my FPE panel replacement. Buy the panel online (best price) and get the breakers at home depot or lowes with a 10% off movers coupons. If doing a replacement more spaces is usually better.
Make sure the panel is sized correctly as well. The quick and dirty panel sizing guide is a 2" pipe supports 200 amps; 1 1/2" is 150 amps; ect... make sure you have a big enough pipe for the panel. Same goes for the wire for the mains; make sure the AWG is correct.
You may want to look into a whole house surge protector:
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005C5NQTA
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00081K55Q
Both have very high ratings, and a bunch of happy owners.
Likely a power quality issue in your home. May want to invest in one of these.