Reddit reviews MG Chemicals 8331 Silver Epoxy Adhesive - High Conductivity, 10 min Working time, 14 g, 2 Dispeners
We found 4 Reddit comments about MG Chemicals 8331 Silver Epoxy Adhesive - High Conductivity, 10 min Working time, 14 g, 2 Dispeners. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.
Electrical resistivity: 0.007 Ω·cm, Thermal conductivity: 1.4 W/(m·K). Heat cure is recommended to get the best possible conductivityContinuous service temperature range from -55 to 150°C (-67 to +302°F)Provides work time of 10 minutes and has full cure time of 5 hours (at 77 degrees F)Two-part silver-filled epoxy adhesive with good conductivity and faster working time than MG Chemicals 8331S adhesive to bond electronic devices, form conductivity seals, and cold solder heat-sensitive materialsEasy 1:1 mix ratio. Stores and ships at room temperature, no freezing or dry ice required
Epoxy won't be conductive if you're buying regular epoxy. The stuff that is conductive is specifically labeled as such. Silver is a precious metal. They aren't going to add it to normal epoxy glue just for fun.
Compare these for an example:
MG Chemicals Silver Epoxy Adhesive - High Conductivity, 10 min working time, 14 g, Dual Syringe https://www.amazon.com/dp/B003BDMJSY
Bob Smith Industries BSI-201 Clear Quik-Cure Epoxy (4.5 oz. Combined) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0166FFFD4
You probably should use something like this then:
https://www.amazon.com/2-Part-Electrically-Conductive-Silver-Adhesive/dp/B003BDMJSY
But you may need to search for some other options. Not sure how hot you think your mosfets will get, but that particular epoxy should hold up to like 300F.
> First - you follow the traces back from the pads, there's a possibility that they go to other, larger, more accessible pads.
the two power traces lead into a pretty chunky component (the rectangular black thing in the youtube) that is pretty accessible, but the two data traces lead into a teeny tiny component (not shown in the youtube, is further south, offscreen) that is in an even tighter spot than the original port location unfortunately.
I guess I could just expose the two data traces somewhere along the line and bridge the gap with very thin wire, but the hardest part would be securing all those little wires to all the tiny pins on the usb micro port, which are placed pretty close together, which makes me nervous.
although if I used the conductive paint to connect these wires rather than solder, it could be much easier. hmmm.
>I've used this technique, complete with silver loaded paint, and it does work. The paint - came in a kit for mending electrically heated car windows.
hm, that's good to hear.
I just bought some of this 2-part silver epoxy off amazon. it got pretty good reviews, and the 10-minute curing time probably gives me enough time to carefully apply it.
I'm going to see if I can use it to connect the port directly to the original trace pads and exposed trace ends, and if that doesn't work, I'll pick up some super thin 40 AWG wire and try to bridge things with that.
I used the following: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B003BDMJSY/
TBH, I mostly used it cause the archeology lab in my department happened to have it lying around and one was about to expire. I would have soldered the connections but that would have required drilling two tiny holes into each buttons to gain access and I was feeling lazy. That would have been a more reversible option, which I honestly wish I did just in case I want to change the switches out in the future.