Reddit reviews Permatex 81343 Anti-Seize Lubricant, 1 oz. Tube

That damage occurred while trying to unscrew the nozzle from the heater block- aluminum + steel + heat is a bad combo. Auto mechanics have known about this since they first started seeing aluminum engine blocks. Anti-seize compound is used on spark plugs to prevent this same sort of problem.

The solution (?)

Will try this stuff when I replace the heater block. It's supposed to be good up to 870C.

Here is a tip for you. Get a six year warranty water heater (if you ever need to buy one), but make it last decades. First watch this, from about the 1:40 mark:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wzecqGyCllU

Guy is replacing the sacrificial anode. On yours, remove it and coat the threads with a anti-seize compound:

https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-81343-Anti-Seize-Lubricant-Tube/dp/B0002UEOLO

Then reinstall it. Now use a marker on the tank to show the installation date. Every five years from that point you pop out the old worn-out anode and install a fresh one.

My last tank lasted 32 years, I think. The anode really reduces corrosion to almost nothing.

Anti-Seize or Anti-Seize

Grease or Grease or My personal favorite, Great wet/winter performance

Chain Lube I use Finish Line Wet. For chains I typically wax.

I used this: https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-81343-Anti-Seize-Lubricant-Tube/dp/B0002UEOLO/ref=pd_bxgy_263_2?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1&refRID=GF5GVX3E1NXA9BRC3CRC

It's been on my car for over a week and still tight :). Same Grimmspeed kit too.

I was worried about it slipping but so far so good, not a single movement.

If it was me, I would put the bike horizontal (but make sure this is ok fluid wise, and with the manufactuerr's instruction manual), and I would use PB blaster on it for a week. And I do mean a week, and the PB Blaster brand only. I know that some may say a week is a bit long, but I have found that an extended period of time helps, as the metal expands/cools a number of days helping to draw the catalyst in.

Then I would get a dremel with this cut off wheel and use it to "notch" the head of the screw as deep as I could without hurting the surrounding metal. Then I would go to the store and find a flat head bit that will fit an impact driver, and it needs to be "impact quality" and "hardened". The impact driver needs to have a high torque..

Then, make sure that whatever bit you have fits securely in the notch you have created, use the impact wrench to break it loose, perhaps far enough that you can get the vise grips on it and finish bringing the bolt out. If you have not used an impact driver before, you should get some wood screws and a block of wood and practice so you are comfortable with it and know what to expect.

Then clean and chase the threads with the appropriate tap. And use an anti seize compound when re-installing the bolts.

I prefer this to drilling out and retapping the screw because he can get an OEM replacement bolt that will fit perfectly and not worry about the fit of a different bolt. Also, this method is actually less laborious (in my opinion) and he can always drill out and re-tap the screw if this does not work (but chances are good that it will).

I think the welding suggestion would work also, but OP may not have a welder. And if the OP wanted, he could use a regular heat gun on it a number of times (with the PB blaster) to expand and help crack the corrosion.

This turned out more expensive than I expected because of the tools. Can somebody confirm that I'm buying the right stuff for the job? Am I forgetting anything?
Doesn't have to be Amazon, it's just convenient. 1994 Miata.

• Permatex 81150 Dielectric Tune-Up Grease, .33 oz Tube
  
• TEKTON 24325 3/8-Inch Drive Click Torque Wrench, 120-960-Inch/Pound
  
• Permatex 81343 Anti-Seize Lubricant, 1 oz. Tube
  
• NGK (9160) ZE21 Premium Spark Plug Wire Set
  
• GearWrench 80546 5/8-Inch x 6-Inch Swivel Spark Plug Socket
  
• NGK (6953) BKR5E-11 V-Power Spark Plug, Pack of 1

Yup found it on amazon.ca

Silicone grease from amazon.ca