Reddit reviews Red Devil 3985 9" Half Barrel Caulk Gun Thrust Ratio 7:1, Black

24. Wall Acoustic Panels: These are useful for reducing high frequency sounds from echoing around the room. Mostly of benefit to people hearing you over microphone, such as streamers. You're unlikely to notice while gaming, especially if wearing headphones. With that said, manufacturer sold wall foam pads aren't actually so great. This [DIY video](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pABvTWSxOes)shows remarkably superior outcomes, plus they're way cheaper than proper acoustic foam panels. Of course, you may want to pretty them up, such as with some cheap [satin fabric](https://www.amazon.com/60-inches-Wide-Charmeuse-Costumes/dp/B07BP9XCDF/).
    
    
25. Room Sound Proofing/Deadening: Many confuse sound proofing and deadening, which is largely the fault of retailers switching between the terms and people buying products designed to do things they didn't think it would (e.g. "sound proofing curtains" is marketing bogus. There's no such thing. They are typically good for "deadening", however)! "Deadening" is for high frequency sounds, which acoustic panels (those black triangles/squares you often see on the walls of streamers) work great. Although you can accomplish far better results, for much less money, with a [simple and cheap DIY](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pABvTWSxOes)\- both of which are safe to home owners (no nails required). This should be beyond your needs for basic streaming or helping people hear you over microphone in-game. If you're getting way more specialized than this however, it's beyond my ability to cover, but you should start with videos likes [this](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JPYt10zrclQ&list=RD4nC9CZMCBF8&index=18)to learn more. However, for low frequency (bass) sounds, this won't help, whatsoever. What you need is "proofing". This requires heavy, dense materials (e.g. fiberglass, brick, cement, glass, wood - all should be solid \[not hollow\]). It also helps to create layers (e.g. imagine a room within a room or how double-pane and triple-pane windows have layers), such that you have pockets of air. And, for both sound proofing and deadening, but especially for proofing, you need to remove air gaps. Air gaps can be common in a home (under/around door/windows, through ventilation or A/C system, fireplace, power outlets, etc). For doors and windows, acoustic sealent (e.g. [Green Glue Sealant](https://www.amazon.com/St-Gobain-GGSEALANT-28OZ-Noiseproofing-Sealant/dp/B00MGCRUD0/) \[also get a [cheap smooth rod style caulk gun](https://www.amazon.com/Red-Devil-3985-Half-Barrel-Caulk/dp/B0013YKMW8/)\]) and weather stripping (e.g. [Frost King Weather Strip Tape](https://www.homedepot.com/p/Frost-King-E-O-1-1-4-in-x-7-16-in-x-10-ft-White-High-Density-Rubber-Foam-Weatherstrip-Tape-R516WH/100119011)) will be the cheapest/effective path forward, but for those wanting to renovate, a solid core door and triple (or at least double) pane window should be your first step. For apartment dwellers, like me, you'll probably forego the bigger renovations. Start with the greenglue, then weather stripping, then (for windows) decide if you need to pay out more to fill-in a window. Fill-in, you say? Some create [DIY window inserts](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zPiNN9Vn3uE&list=RD4nC9CZMCBF8&index=16), while others purchase the heaviest full-window covers they can find (e.g. [Acoustic Curtain](https://residential-acoustics.com/shop/soundproofing/acousticurtain/) \[to help visualize, here's a similar product's [installation video](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YyJQjWTLAQM)\]). Whichever path you go, if you're able to shine a line through one end and see it out the other, then you need to try again - sorry. **If anyone has a better solution, whose versed in sound"proofing" physics, I'd love to hear about it!** Ultimately, if your walls are loud, you're going to need to do some remodeling, like shown [here](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=DATpOgogvxE&list=RD4nC9CZMCBF8&index=28). And for those trying to make extremely quiet room (e.g. playing instruments in your recording studio), then you'll need to go more in-depth. Here are two very well made descriptive videos: [First](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AOIAPBA2pT8&list=RD4nC9CZMCBF8&index=7)and [second](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lV5RgcJTRSk&list=RD4nC9CZMCBF8&index=25)(not English, but animated video is very demonstrative). Also, for more ideas to soundproof doors, see [here](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R4uIYIQ3w1s&list=RD4nC9CZMCBF8&index=26). You can learn the science behind window sound proofing [here](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7AQWcTLy3Xo&list=RD4nC9CZMCBF8&index=30), btw (if you've ever wondered how much better triple vs double vs single pane windows are, this will tell you in no uncertain terms). Also, for electrical boxes (e.g. power outlets), it's safer to use fire code rated "acoustic putty pads" (if you can access them from behind the wall).
    
    
26. Speakers: Most people don't know this, but some people get physically sick from a lot of bass. Sadly, I'm one of them (can't ever go to concerts). Speakers, for this reason, become a big question mark. Some terrific stereo speakers most might want to consider would be the [Klipsch R-41PM](https://www.klipsch.com/products/r-41pm-powered-speakers), however. **If anyone knows some minimal bass 2.0 speakers, I'd be quite grateful!** I'm also strongly considering [making my own speakers](https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=27zBr74NuKU). Otherwise, I plan to use my monitor's built-in speakers for Netflix / Youtube / non-communicative video games.

I have always used this for caulk, but anything that is 100% silicone will be fine.

You don't really need the caulk tool, IMO. That tool might not work well for your situation anyway as it is meant for surfaces that meet at 90 degrees, which doesn't quite apply to your situation. All you need to smooth the bead is a wet finger and a bar of soap. Did your finger in water, run it over the soap and then use the finger to smooth the bead. You can do it with just water too. Have a paper towel handy to wipe off the excess from your finger.

I think I get about 40-50 ft with a 3/16 bead out of a 10oz tube, maybe more, maybe less. I would imagine two tubes would do everything. If it were me, I would buy 3 and return the last if I didn't use it - sometimes it is nice to have the extra on hand just in case.

You can use painters tape, but you don't need to IMO. Also, you don't need as much caulk on the bead as you think you do.

Also, unless you intend on caulking a lot more, save some money and get a cheap gun. It will work just fine. All you have to do is remember to hit the back little level to take pressure off the cartridge when you are done running the bead so it doesn't drip. You probably don't even need those caps for storage.