Reddit Reddit reviews TEKTON 1/4 Inch Drive Click Torque Wrench (20-200 in.-lb.) | 24320

We found 17 Reddit comments about TEKTON 1/4 Inch Drive Click Torque Wrench (20-200 in.-lb.) | 24320. Here are the top ones, ranked by their Reddit score.

Torque Wrenches
Hand Tools
Power & Hand Tools
Tools & Home Improvement
TEKTON 1/4 Inch Drive Click Torque Wrench (20-200 in.-lb.) | 24320
Includes: 1-pc. 1/4 in. drive torque wrench; Storage case; Product manual with torque conversion chartWrench emits a click that can be heard and felt when the preset value is reachedHigh-contrast dual-range scale is easy to read, even in low lightReversible ratchet head drives in both directions and measures torque in clockwise directionDurable all-steel construction has no plastic parts to break or wear outShips pre-calibrated to +/- 4% accuracy and ready to use
Check price on Amazon

17 Reddit comments about TEKTON 1/4 Inch Drive Click Torque Wrench (20-200 in.-lb.) | 24320:

u/ZDMW · 6 pointsr/MTB

I have the Tekton 1/4in 20-200 in/lb wrench, I have not had any issues with it. I also have the 10-150ft/lb wrench, but that's pretty much just for the car.

It's not a premium tool, but it works well, and I find them to be a good value for the price. I paid $30 for the torque wrench.

Also remember when you store torque wrenches to set them to 0. That way you remove the load from the ratchet mechanism while it sits around.

I did break one of their box wrenches before, it was 100% my fault. They sent me a new one for free no questions asked.

u/m34z · 3 pointsr/bikewrench

Tekton 24320. Print out an nm-to-in/lbs conversion chart to save yourself a headache.

u/KISSOLOGY · 3 pointsr/MTB


Hey, thanks for all your replies. I don't know if you get Karma or not but I gave some upvotes

u/toomuchdolphin · 3 pointsr/MTB

> 15 nm

ah, bummer, that's right in the range where small cheap ones are too small and the large ones are too large.

the only decent, but relatively cheap one i could find was a tekton one, which i use now

that said, if you know what 15nm feels like, you could probably get close enough and be fine- seat bolt specs are a lot tigher than most other bolts on a bike

u/david0990 · 3 pointsr/MechanicAdvice

I just got this one for my smaller torques, and have had that pittsberg one. it's not surprising you thought they cost so much when everyone is always posting about their snap-on wrenches and what not. Just remember to not drop them, or throw them down, and store them at the lowest setting to keep them calibrated/not wear out the spring.

u/fumblesvp · 3 pointsr/longrange

I have been very happy with my tekton torque wrench. No audible click at desired torque setting but very noticeable break you can feel at torque setting.

EDIT: just saw you wanted to keep it in the range bag. Probably a little big. Might want to look at the vortex option they just came out with.

u/wa11yba11s · 3 pointsr/MTB

I generally use a really expensive digital one I bought for engine builds but I also use this guy for stuff I'm not super worried about tolerance on. I use it mostly to torque the bolts on my hunting rifles
TEKTON 24320 1/4-Inch Drive Click Torque Wrench (20-200 in.-lb./2.26-22.6 Nm)

u/TwoWheeledTraveler · 2 pointsr/Ducati

So the good news is that the engine in your bike (the aircooled two valve, or "desmodue") is about the simplest and easiest to maintain of all the modern Ducati engines. I have the same one in my Scrambler and it's really quite simple. You also don't have a ton of fairings or whatever covering stuff up.

So, with a fairly basic set of tools you can certainly learn to do your routine maintenance yourself. For basic tools, you'll want a basic "mechanic's" tool set that includes Metric sizing, and both sockets and "allen wrenches." You can piece this together or buy something like this that'll have just about everything you need. You'll also need some torque wrenches. I have this one for higher torque stuff and this one for lower. They're not the super awesomest in the world but they're just fine.

Let's look at a couple of simple jobs:

Chain Maintenance

This is one you'll want to be doing every 500 - 600 miles or so. You can do this without a rear stand, but it is MUCH easier with one.

Required tools:

A chain brush (I use this one from Tirox)

Chain Cleaner (I use Motul Chain Clean)

Chain lube (I use Motul lube )

Some nitrile gloves because yuck, and some cardboard to prop up between the chain and the wheel / tire. You DO NOT want chain lube on your tire.

Optional is a rear stand. Everyone will yell Pitbull, which are great but expensive. I didn't want to go ultra cheapo, so I ended up with a set of Pro II stands from GPI Industries. They were like $100 on sale.

Basically, you put the bike up on the rear stand, stick some cardboard between the chain and the wheel, hose it down with cleaner, brush it off, blot it off, and hose it down with lube. When I'm done I typically put the bike back on the sidestand and check for proper chain slack as well, just because.

Oil Changes

These are "officially" a 7500 mile deal on our bikes, but I'm conservative and do it at about half that.

Required tools:

An oil filter wrench. You'll need a 76mm octagonal one. I use this one and it's fine.

You'll also need oil, a filter, and a few O-rings and gaskets. The easiest way to get all this stuff is to go to Ducati Omaha (who are sponsors here and will give you 5% off and free shipping with the code in the sticky thread) and order an oil change kit for your bike. They'll even include the Ducati filter wrench for like $10.

You'll also need an oil drain pan and a way to transport the old oil to an auto parts store or other place that will properly dispose of it. PLEASE do not do something stupid like pouring it in the gutter or putting it in your trash.

This is another job that's made incredibly easier by putting the bike up on the rear stand.

There's a good walkthrough of how to do it here. This is on a Scrambler, but again it's the same engine. Note that this walkthrough includes checking the mesh filter which isn't strictly required every time. If you don't do that part all the things about taking the exhaust off aren't applicable. If you're not doing that part all you need to do is drain the oil, swap the filter, and re fill.


There are other jobs you can easily learn to do yourself, like brake pads and fluid, but if you start by learning to do chain maintenance and oil changes you'll have most of the stuff you need. The other thing I would recommend is to get yourself a nice set of bike washing stuff, and spend time every few weeks cleaning your machine. It's a good way to get familiar with what's where and what it should all look like "normally."


u/moosaid · 2 pointsr/bikewrench

Sounds a bit like me!

  1. What I did was look at all the components on my bike and try and find the owners/instruction/installation manual. This provided me with most of the torque settings required for the various components, and I put them into a spreadsheet for future reference. For the remainder, I went to Park Tool website and thus completed my list of parts with their respective torque settings. The range worked out to be from 2Nm-49Nm (min torque spec). I could not find a single torque wrench that had this range, so had to split into 2 wrenches. Since the smaller values (2-10Nm) were the most common on the bike, I purchased this Tektro 1/4" torque wrench which ranged from 2.26Nm-20Nm. I have had no problems with this wrench, and it feels good quality for the small price I paid.

  2. I've found isopropyl alcohol to be sufficient for cleaning the rotors, but mine don't get all that dirty so YMMV. I know that Fenwicks makes a Dry Degreasers and Disc Brake spray that is supposed to be very good.

  3. You're probably best looking to get the Park Tool stand It's not all that expensive and the quality is excellent.

    As to rear derailleurs, they are all pretty much standard. You have 2 screws for determining low and high stop; the b-screw which controls the gap between the top pulley wheel and the cassette. And then are able to adjust cable-tension either at the derailleur or the gear shifter which will fine tune the shifting indexing. Just youtube any rear-mech/derailleur setup and you should find something suitable.

    Hope this helps!
u/NBQuade · 2 pointsr/Justrolledintotheshop
u/thefutureofamerica · 2 pointsr/bicycling

It really depends on your needs. I think for most people and bikes, it's totally unnecessary to have torque wrenches. When I bought mine (this one), I was really shocked at how high the torque specs were for cockpit components/seatpost/FD clamp/etc. I found myself going 1/2 to a full turn tighter than I ever would have on my own, and I've never had trouble with parts slipping on me in the past. Just use assembly paste and/or grease in the appropriate places.

That said, I do still use it, including to install chainring bolts on my Quarq, and it gives me some peace of mind.

For pedals, it's definitely not needed. Pedals only need to be installed to 'snug' because pedaling action tends to tighten them up over time. I can't think what else on a bike you'd need that higher torque range for, but maybe that's because I only know road bikes.

u/nivvis · 1 pointr/bicycling

Seems pretty simple. The only real frame specific stuff you'll need to do are:

  • coat the inside of the frame with framesaver (double check with the mfg that it's not already treated) or it will rust from the inside out

  • install BB (possibly face BB surface, up to you)

    Nothing else is particularly finicky or difficult. Disc brakes can be a bit of a bear, and if you go hydraulic you'll what a bleeding kit. All pretty simply bike stuff after that, e.g. routing lines, tuning derailleurs, etc.

    I'd recommend getting a low range torque wrench for things like your crank bolts, brake bolts etc. I've been happy with this one:
u/imnu · 1 pointr/MTB

I have this torque wrench:

What do I need so I can put hex bits and such on there?

u/escape_your_destiny · 1 pointr/Tools

You're halfway correct. You're only converting the length unit, not the weight unit. So to go from kg-m to ft/lb you'd have to convert both units. Easiest way is to use an online converter, like this one. So your range, 0.15 to 13 kg-m, is equal to 13 to 1128 in/lbs, or 1 to 94 ft/lbs.

To really get all those torque ranges, you would need 3 torque wrenches: one for the smaller torques, one for the bigger stuff, and a screw-type torque wrench for the really small stuff. But two torque wrenches should cover about 90% of the stuff on that list.

These two wrenches would work perfect for what you're doing: a 1/4" drive and a 3/8" drive. With Amazon's free shipping the price should be right around $75. These two wrenches give you a range of 0.23 to 11 kg-m, which is everything on your list except the "cone seat for steering rod" and the "speedometer cable locking screw". If you ever mess with those, just use common sense and don't over tighten them.

I currently work as an aircraft mechanic, but I have also worked on motorcycles and cars before. I can tell you that most people would not even torque the vast majority on that list. Some things are important, where a failure of the bolt or nut can result in damage, like the axle nut bolts, and those would get always torqued. But things like the kickstarter arm bolts would normally just snug them up. Over time you will learn what is proper strength that should be applied. But for a beginner the torque wrench is great because it reduces the chances of stretching a bolt.

Quick science lesson. If you look at this chart, you will see the torque you can apply (the stress axis) vs. the stretch the bolt will receive (the strain axis). As you torque a bolt, the bolt will stretch slightly, which is fine, unless you go too far. A normal torque for a bolt would be somewhere between 0 and the yield strength on the chart. In this area, the bolt will stretch but return to it's original form once the torque is release. If you go any further, you enter the strain hardening area. Here the bolt will receive permanent deformation, but will still be tight. If you go even further, you enter the necking area, where the bolt has stretched so far that it has become thin and the strength of the bolt is no longer there, and the bolt is very close to breaking.

The reason why I bring this up, if you're ever tightening a bolt, screw, or nut and it feels like it all of a sudden got easier to turn, most likely it's because you've entered the necking area and you're about to break the bolt. Best thing to do then is take the bolt out and replace it.

u/turktheripper · 1 pointr/MTB

My current favorite:

For higher torque values, you'll need to go up to the 3/8" drive version.

u/HarvardCock · 1 pointr/subaru

alot of this is dependent on your model, but to give you a rough idea...

the most important tool you can own is a copy of the Factory Service Manual for your car, it can make fixing any part of the car 10x easier, and gives you torque specs for almost everything so you dont wreck your car. Subaru uses aluminum engine blocks, and over torquing will strip the threads from the block, or if you're really unlucky you can crack the block or head leaving you with a 3,300lb paperweight.

99% of fasteners are Metric, common sizes are 8, 10, 12, 14, and 17mm. there are also some 19, 21, and 23mm but they're less common. If you do any engine work you'll want a 14mm 12-point to remove the head bolts. If you need to split your short block, those are 12mm 12-point i think...

changing the engine oil will require a normal 17mm socket, but if you feel like changing manual transmission or rear diff oil you'll need a Torx T70 bit. (im doing mine this weekend) thats about $10 on amazon

If you plan on doing any engine/timing belt work, consider getting a set of cam/crank pulley tools. they're specific to Subaru and its nearly impossible to get the timing belt pulley's and harmonic balancer torqued correctly without them. There are a few different tools for different pulleys, each is about $50. you can find them here and on amazon.

I'm not sure about older models, but the fuel line that connects to the intake manifold on my subie has a quick-disconnect that requires a special tool to remove, you can remove the fuel line in other locations, but its nearly always a pain in the ass to get it back on and will risk damaging a hose. this is only really needed if you think you'll ever remove the intake manifold or plan to pull the engine at any point.

Other than that...

Breaker bars are great, especially for head bolts, brakes, and oil drain plugs

Feeler Gauges for checking tolerances

If you jack up the car, throw some jack stands under there for redundancy so if your jack slips, you aren't killed (this happens, alot.)

a compressor, impact wrench, blowgun, air ratchet, and some impact sockets can be infinitely useful, but know when to use them and when not to use them.

a good set of torque wrenches is always good, the torque specs on subarus are anywhere from 3.6ft/lbs to something like 136 ft/lbs. Amazon has some pretty good ones which cover this range... i bought this, this and this

im sure i can come up with more, if i do i'll add them as an edit. If you can give me an idea of what you plan on doing maintainance-wise, maybe we can give you an idea on what you'll need/expect