I did this at my house! But much cheaper!

I bought one of these:
https://www.amazon.com/BACOENG-Stainless-Motorized-Control-Electrical/dp/B00PVR7P6O/

And plugged it into a normal zwave switch.

Whenever it loses power it closes. The valve was around $70 and the outlet was about $30. $100 for the parts.

Simple setup.

BOM:

• Motorized ball valve x2
  
  
• Sonoff 4 Channel Pro R2 Smart Switch
  
  
• Enclosure
  
  
• Cable glands x3
  
  
• 12V 2A SMPS (any should do)
  
  Software side:
  
  
• ewelink app
  
  
• Google Assistant
  
  Notes:
  
  4 channel relay setup is necessary because the valves function when the user reverses the polarity of the 12V power.
  
  Valves have internal limit switches and do not need monitored or timed by user. When it's "open" it stops supplying power to it's own motor until polarity is switched.
  
  ewelink works but Google usually reports an error in function even though there is none and it fires correctly every time when the routine is called. The cause of this is still unknown.
  
  Valves can be left in a partially open position.
  
  My setup is to simply control the shower and tub function of being on or off. It does not regulate the temperature because this setup will be upstream of the showerhead/faucet via a single PEX line carrying water that has already had the temperature regulated. If you were to set your physically controlled handle to where you like it then sure, the "problem" of having the perfect temperature every time is also addressed. It could also be addressed by setting the time that the valve turns when opening if you used this in a hot/cold control configuration rather than on/off. The setup is rendered useless when the upstream valve regulating the temp of the water is not open.

Built my own using an electric ball valve, zwave outlet, and water sensors spread around the house.

Here is the valve I used:

BACOENG 1" DN25 110VAC Stainless Steel Motorized Ball Valve 2 Way/Zone Valve With US Plug(NC CR202 2 Wires Control Electrical Ball Valve)

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PVR7P6O/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_tai_.6I1Ab0EHAN41

Also available in 3/4 inch.

The biggest contributor to the amount of foam is the flow rate out of the tap. To reduce the foam, reduce the flow rate. You're using 11 PSI with a 5 ft line, which sounds like it would pour really fast.

Option 1: Lower pressure for serving

Bleed pressure from keg and set regulator to 2-5 PSI when serving. Re-pressurize when not serving so the beer doesn't go flat.

Pros: No extra equipment required.

Cons: Incredibly wasteful in terms of CO2. Using this method, I blasted through roughly a third of a 5# tank dispensing just one keg.

Option 2: Adjust beer line length

Make the line length longer according to the style of beer, to compensate for high pressure in the keg. This has to do with fluid dynamics. There is info available on this if you search; I remember seeing posts on this a few weeks ago.

Pros: simple, effective, and inexpensive

Cons: Requires a lot of cutting and re-clamping of beer lines for each different style of beer; no way of doing fine tuning of flow rate for more or less head; requires keeping a bigger inventory of tubing for different styles.

Option 3: Flow control

Put something in your draft system that allows you to adjust the flow rate without attaching/reattaching anything.

Pros: easy to control, less hassle/mess. Just turn a dial and get the flow rate exactly what you want it to be, to perform on-the-spot adjustments for the perfect pour.

Cons: more expensive, although I've seen plastic inline flow controllers like this $2.50 USD one

I have the Perlick 650SS tap on my kegerator and it works like a charm. If you're using a picnic tap or want to use a tap without built-in flow control, and you want something nice, you can get an inline flow control compensator like the one made by CM Becker, or (less expensive but still solid) make one using a stainless steel NPT ball valve and two hose barbs (clamps and plumber's tape not included).

Edit: info/links

That's why I'd get one of these

https://www.amazon.com/BACOENG-Stainless-Motorized-Control-Electrical/dp/B00PVR7P6O/

Automatically shuts off if you lose power.

I have been using the Fieldpiece probes connected with the measure quick app. The range on the FP probes is about 200 ft. I hear the gen 2 Testo probes have much better range as well. The app will give you complete diagnostic of the system and a really nice PDF printout of the job when you're done. A lot of customers love when you can say "this is what I see your system doing" and then you can show them live readings and how far off target their system.

As far as charging get one of these. https://www.trutechtools.com/CTEE14

Get some hoses with ball valves for charging and you're good to go.

I also use a pair of these for systems that don't have much space by the ports.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0014JC9HI/ref=cm\_sw\_em\_r\_mt\_dp\_U\_XgcvDbAAFS20P

​

This is how another guys does it for a visual.

https://youtu.be/TrW7xpGMdFo

ball valve with a 45* angle on it so the cans dump and also an adapter to fit the 1/4" NPT of the T and the 1/4" flare thread from the ball valve.

Can tapper: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0009XT7NY/ref=oh_details_o05_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

(remove the schrader valve on the side you use and also the ball in the inside as well.)

Ball valves: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0014JC9HI/ref=oh_details_o07_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

(I had to file down the end of the ballvalve where the adapter fits on because at first it was only held on by one thread. Making the ball valve shorter allowed it to fit inside the adapter deeper and make contact with more threads)

Adapter: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0056ODEP8/ref=oh_details_o02_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

(take a pair of needle nose pliers to remove the unnecessary internals that would reduce the flow rate.)

I got the T splitter from ebay. I found one with male 1/4" NPT on the bottom and female 1/4" NPT on each side.

Adding a servo to an existing valve is relatively difficult, just replace the valve entirely.

Dude, on the "products related to this item" section on your Amazon link I found EXACTLY what you're looking for: Motorized ball valve

Beduan 3 Way Shut Off Ball Valve, 3/8" Hose Barb 2 Switch Brass Y Shaped Valve https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07N5ZWLHJ/ref=cm_sw_r_other_apa_i_p5UWDb93XG6WH

This is what I was thinking. One valve for the main and one for the secondary. My concern was I had read on a forum that a gravity fed like this could possibly flood the carb.

I LOVE my Mash & Boil, especially after I upgraded it. Here are the things I bought for it to do my upgrade. It’s a good amount of money up front but worth it.



CHUGGER PUMP CPSS-CI-1 Stainless Steel 115 Volt Center Home Brewing System Beer Pump, 55” Cord WITH Plug, Inlet 3/4” x Outlet 1/2” MPT, ETL-Certified, USFDA Food Compliant Materials https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01N9HERFS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_vECLBbD3PTY36


HFS(R) Homebrew Beer Wort Chiller... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06Y41HCFP?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf


White SiliconeTubing, 1/2"ID, 3/4"OD, 1/8"Wall, 10' Length https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000FMWU38/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_VECLBb3CM7H5Q


MRbrew Quick Disconnect 304 Stainless... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074TCQF6Q?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf


CONCORD 304 Stainless Steel Quick... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B079J5X3XD?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf


Anderson Metals Brass Garden Hose... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B006PKMU7U?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf


LOKMAN Hose Clamp, 20 Pack Stainless Steel Adjustable 13-19mm Range Worm Gear Hose Clamp, Water Pipe Clamp for for Plumbing, Automotive and Mechanical Applications https://www.amazon.com/dp/B077R2PNVT/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_yHCLBbB7TH7W8


Dernord Full Port Ball Valve Stainless Steel 304 Heavy Duty for Water, Oil, and Gas with Blue Locking Handles (1/2" NPT) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B076D7WM9D/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_wKCLBbEH1QPR0


HomeBrewStuff Stainless Steel... https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00UI995XG?ref=yo_pop_ma_swf

Look for a 3/4" solenoid valve on amazon, they are not expensive. The electronics will be up to you. You should get a NO (Normally Open) valve, or else your water will shut off when the power is out, and generally it's bad to keep the valve open all the time under power if you don't have to.

There are also motorized ball valves, like this: https://smile.amazon.com/Motorized-Electrical-Standard-U-S-Solid/dp/B06XRJF4JG/ref=sr_1_16?ie=UTF8&qid=1525884354&sr=8-16&keywords=solenoid+valve+3%2F4

I just set up something similar to automate watering of some trees we just planted that are on a drip line hooked up to a spigot. I used one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PVQFTHW/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_fbXdBbJZ06AT0

Plugged into one of these:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01NAO4B9Z/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_-dXdBb8ZM1Q55

Works great and no batteries. Ends up to be about the same price.

Edit: this is plumbed inside my house. Pretty sure neither of these products are rated for outdoor use.

Hey mahm0udin

I use the 5 gal version now, but I think the 10 Gal would be perfect for both methods because you get a healthy grain bed for filtering when brewing big or small.

You will want to install a Weldless ball valve with a Nipple on the inside of the mash tun.

You will also want one of these false bottoms and a piece of silicon pipe to join it to the internal ball valve nipple

Woo, that was a lot of links :) This is my setup and it works a treat :)

What is you plan for a mash tun? I went with a 10g Home Depot cooler and something like this: https://www.amazon.com/Quick-Weldless-Stainless-Bulkhead-Nipple/dp/B00JHMRH2Q

This is the cooler: https://www.homedepot.com/p/Rubbermaid-40-qt-Orange-Water-Cooler-FG1610HDORAN/202260809

You’ll also need a screen or false bottom. I think the screen is a ver economical option https://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Steel-Bazooka-Screen-Fitting/dp/B003ISY2DC

> stainless steel 316 Tee

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B003LSSLE0/ref=biss_dp_t_asn -----

>stainless steel 316 nipple 1/4 ----------
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004Y18C56/ref=pd_luc_rh_bxgy_01_02_t_lh?ie=UTF8&psc=1 ----

>ball vales
http://www.amazon.com/Stainless-Steel-Mini-Ball-Valve/dp/B006VE3BF0/ref=pd_sim_sbs_auto_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=0QATKNJ8JPYS71CX5ZPG

>can tap
http://www.amazon.com/Robinair-10102-Side-R134A-Respective/dp/B0009XT7NY/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1417119173&sr=8-2&keywords=can+tapper

Yellow Jacket 93842 Mini Ball Valve (3 Pack) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0014JC9HI/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_gHaIDb22XPC3K

He’s talking about these. When I got my gauge set up I got theses with the built in valves.

I had the wrong idea on your pump set up. Personally I use this pump. Has great pressure, the pressure tank stops the pump from running nonstop, and it's very quiet for the output.

When I say check valve I'm meaning something like this

Here are 3 1/8in. Ball valves, Male on one end, and female on the other. Easy to install under a air vent.

☆Red&White☆
Red-White Valve 5081AB Lead Free Mini Ball Valve, 1/8F x 1/8M https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00PM92ZS4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_Wuv3BbAF2SK32


◇Webstone◇
https://www.supplyhouse.com/Webstone-41685-1-8-FIP-x-MIP-Full-Port-Forged-Brass-Mini-Ball-Valve

♧Mini stainless one I found on amazon♧
Dernord Stainless Steel Mini Ball Valve NPT Thread (1/8" Female&Male) https://www.amazon.com/dp/B075VL9P95/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_LGv3BbSNABCJH

Hmm. I didn't have any luck finding the ball valve on any of those. So the brass components are a no-go? The regulator I'm looking at is made for brewing so I'm assuming is food safe.

Here is what I'm looking for. This is the one that says up to 2.5% lead. I would like to find this in SS but have not been able to. Perhaps there is another way I could get something similar that I'm unaware of. The purpose is basically so I can have an easily accessible shut off valve instead of having to reach for the regulator every time I use it.
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B074386FSP/

Freaking thank you!


This should work for the valve, yes?

NIGO AN10 Series Forged Brass Mini Ball Valve, 1/4" NPT Male x 1/4" NPT Female, 180 Degree Operation Handle, Rated to 600WOG https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B0743516BF/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_F0p4CbFQW5Y9V

I ended up ordering this SS b/v. Seems like it should work with the correct nipples right? Also, how do you compress the actuator on the can tapper npt connection? Rip it out? Thanks for your help

This one only opens if it receives power. You can hook it up to a z-wave controller and trigger it that way:"...Simple two wire connection, valve largely de-energizes after opening; Returns to fully closed if power is removed..." Motorized Ball Valve- 3/4"


... or you can get one with the z-wave controller: Z-Wave 3/4" Valve Water Control

• I haven't used any of this so I can't tell you how well it works

It will be for a showerhead, basically, to vary the output flow/pressure on an aqua massage table. About the same as household water supply, 50 - 60 PSI @ 3GPM from an RV fresh water pump. The line will be ½", so I guess the valve wouldn't need to be any bigger than ¼" since I won't want to turn it all the way down, just fine tune if it's a little too hard of a spray.

Actually just found this, and while it doesn't have fine control, the QA says if power is cut during operation, it stays in the position it was in at the time. Maybe I could work with that. Takes 3- 5 seconds to close, so maybe I could energize with a relay, send open or close signal, then cut power after a specific interval that will give me a few different degrees of open or closed. Am I being naive, or is that doable?

You're answer was very thorough, thank you. I found out that motorized value works well. I've seen people on YouTube controlling the flow with it. But I have a problem, I don't know how to connect it to the Arduino and code it, there are no tutorials out there for that. Do you know by any chance how to connect the motor to the Arduino?

I found these two motorized ball valve, they seem to be good.
https://www.amazon.com/Motorized-Stainless-Electrical-U-S-Solid/dp/B06XN5TZX7?ref_=bl_dp_s_web_5384200011&th=1

https://www.amazon.com/engineering-DC12V-SS304-Motorized-Electrical/dp/B00Y1ZENGM?th=1


This is videos I've found where they control the valve
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=S-YLL6bov_4

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cPjN1YstjMk

Found these should do the work of shutting off your main. A current sensor on the alarm wire or photo cell placed near the alarm light, Arduino and an h-bridge should do the trick.

Motorized Ball Valve- 1" Stainless Steel Electrical Ball Valve with Full Port, 9-24V DC and 5 Wire Setup, can be used with Indicator Lights, [Indicate Open or Closed Position] by U.S. Solid https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XCN8V6W/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_oM0CCbZXQFRNP

Hi TaintTrauma,

Thank you for your suggestion. for ball valve, is this one good:
Dixon FBVG75 Brass Ball Valve, 3/4" NPT Female

https://www.amazon.com/Dixon-FBVG75-Brass-Valve-Female/dp/B0081LIH4Q/ref=sr_1_2?s=industrial&ie=UTF8&qid=1494730812&sr=1-2&refinements=p_72%3A1248921011%2Cp_n_feature_seven_browse-bin%3A3071257011&th=1

what's the reason to install the prv after the meter, but before 2nd valve (the newly installed ball valve)? is it because the high pressure will put pressure and cause damage to 2nd valve?

I will call plumber to do it. don't want to mess with water :)

Thank you!

Can you also recommend a ball valve? I'm having trouble determining if ones are food safe or not. Would this one work? From what I've [read] (http://www.popularmechanics.com/home/how-to/g1580/how-to-build-your-own-home-brewing-mash-tun/) I believe 3/4" is the size I need. Then I just need the two washers and the nut.
Also in the guide I linked, I'm confused about the 1" nut for use on the 3/4" nipple, is that a typo?
Also looking through more guides, half seem to be using 1/2" ball valves, and half seem to be using 3/4". Can I use either for a 10gal cooler?

8gal should be plenty for a kettle. I bought my stainless steel kettle from AIH and I believe they start at 69 with 1 spout. You will need to buy the ball valve and barb fitting but those can be around $15-$20 on amazon. I have another kettle that s aluminum with a spout that was dirt cheap on amazon. They go on sale sometimes for $40ish for 8-10gal, I dont remember which.

The darkstar burner from northern brewer is $a reasonable $50. If you wanted to get something cheaper you would need to scour craigslist.

I am pretty new to brewing still but I stayed away from glass fermenters just because of all the horror photos I have seen on here and HBT. I have 3 plastic fermenters but I haven't yet had 2 going at the same time. If you are in NorCal I would gladly give donate one to you.

As for the rest of the smaller stuff, I would try and find a LHBS. Prices shouldn't vary that much from online. Or you could spring for a kit from nothern brewer that should come with everything.

I have yet to keg so no info on that, but I like bottling. It makes it easier to share with friends and is more portable.