Best bike rigid forks according to redditors

http://www.niagaracycle.com/categories/sunlite-700c-road-fork-threaded-length-4-3-4-1-od-chrome-cro-mo-non-canti

http://www.amazon.com/Steel-Threaded-Chrome-bicycle-fixie/dp/B00GHXT7I0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1418014480&sr=8-2

Either one. Although with shipping I'm not sure it's going to work out to be much cheaper.

You'll also want to be sure that the steerer tube length is long enough and that there's enough threading on each.

Oh shoot, just realized that you didn't say anything about needing carbon. In that case, yeah, you can find that thing anywhere.

I still strongly suggest that you abandon threaded for threadless. That will allow you to buy this fork*, which will have ample steerer for that frame. Or alternately, you can really upset your local mechanics and have them cut threads in it, for you, but that'll be expensive.

*Even though it says out of stock, it is actually in stock with QBP, who manufactures and sells these forks. Retail price is $80 and it's part #FK0084. Your LBS can order it no problem.

I found this for under 300 for my build. It’s qr but there’s nothing wrong with that.
https://www.amazon.com/Easton-EC90XD-Fork-1-125-Matte/dp/B00BH78BDS

It doesn't even have to be expensive! Full chrome steel fork, 700c, 1-1/8 $43.99.

This is what I bought, but it seems that Amazon doesn't have any right now. Although, the Google seems to be indicating that there are more to be had.

First make sure you didn't buckle the frame as well.

Check the downtube behind the headtube and see if it's bent.

If it is you've compromised the frame and jacked the geometry and it's probably better to replace the frame/bike.

For a sub-$300 bike, I'd probably get a $50 chrome chro-mo 1" threaded fork, as that'd look pretty sweet with a white frame, but they've got them in black as well for about the same price. (If you go this route, make sure you get one with the right steerer tube length).

Assuming that your frame is undamaged, and you want to go threadless, you're still not going to have that many choices in a 1" threadless fork, as most threadless forks are 1-1/8", and the ones that are available look like they cost about 1/2 as much as your whole bike.

That said, if you really do want a 1" threadless fork, you'll need the following;

1" threadless fork

1" threadless headset

1" threadless stem (with the other end sized to fit your handlebars).

1" spacers

hacksaw / pipe cutter (to trim the steerer tube).

Good luck!

Yeah but its hard to find one that's not all painted/stickered. I've still got a few months to keep an eye out on craigslist. If not I was thinking one of these... https://www.amazon.com/Nashbar-Carbon-Road-Bike-Fork/dp/B004UMESDY/ref=pd_lpo_468_bs_t_2?_encoding=UTF8&refRID=HBSTB260PMJ85MZ4SFE5

The guy in the repair shop wants to increase the shop's profits.

Steel is best for hub DIY, but as I have learned working on a MTB circa early 90's, not all dropouts are built alike and what worked for a lightweight wheel may get torn up by the hub. If you have any desire to keep your bike 'complete' (all original parts)... you may want to replace the fork, especially if you don't trust the dropouts. From the photos, that fork may be something like this but make sure to measure the steerer tube diameter first.

If the fork is bent, you should check the frame to make sure it is not damaged as well. Check the head tube/down tube junction for bumps, ripples, cracking paint.

The fork is 1" threaded, 700c. Threaded forks come with different length steerer tubes (the tube the goes in the frame). You will need to measure the length, and order appropriate one. You can cut a longer one down.

One thing that makes getting the right fork for your bike tricky, is that it has fat 32c tires, with a long reach caliper brake. Most 700c road forks for calipers are for shorter reach race brakes, that only fit skinnier 25-28c tires.

Since you want better brakes anyways, you might consider a cross or hybrid fork with cantilever brake bosses. This will have clearance for your fatter tires, and is a more powerful brake. You can use your existing brake lever, if they were not damaged.

You will need: allen key, 32mm headset wrench, hammer, punch, headset race seater, hacksaw, guide. Definitely go to a bike co-op for access to specialty tools.
Fork: $32
http://www.amazon.com/Ramiko-700C-Summit-200-100mm/dp/B00644738S/ref=sr_1_6?s=cycling&ie=UTF8&qid=1396464837&sr=1-6&keywords=700c+1%22+threaded+canti

Brake:
http://www.amazon.com/Shimano-BR-CT91-Altus-Cantilever-Silver/dp/B001GSOHDQ/ref=sr_1_1?s=sporting-goods&ie=UTF8&qid=1396464122&sr=1-1&keywords=shimano+cantilever+brakes

$170 on Amazon.

>order the part to do myself, because the "tools required" would be just as expensive as just getting another bike.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rUX_cTuk3O8

I've done it before. I already had a pipe cutter. Made a tool out of some PVC tubing I had laying around.

>Edit: Do you think something like Fenix 700c Steel Fork F309, 1 1/8" Threadless (Black) would work and be strong enough?

I would get a fork that features a disk brake boss. I also am a fan of Surly and forks that have a bit of a curve to them and bigger tire/fender clearance...

Something like this:

https://www.nashbar.com/surly-disc-trucker-fork-700c-350mm-steerer-black-disct700c-fk-1-1-8-35/p456852

But it really is personal choice. Get what you want, that fork from Amazon should work out.

The fork conversion I've put off the table. The bike shop wouldn't do it, because any scenario would involve filing down either the motors mounting bolts or fork eyelets, and they didn't want to be exposed to any liability. They didn't suggest I order the part to do myself, because the "tools required" would be just as expensive as just getting another bike. The bike I was trying to use was a 2007 Trek 1500 STR, which has a 1 1/8" threadless fork.

​

Edit: Do you think something like Fenix 700c Steel Fork F309, 1 1/8" Threadless (Black) would work and be strong enough?